Brilliant, only the other day I was shooting some sunflowers using normal and converted cameras, I experimented with an 80B filter on the full spectrum, the results look interesting, I haven't put them on the computer yet. Will now look to try other filters and combinations! 😀
Hi Rob, nice video again. Another nice combo stack is the Hoya X 1 + Hoya C8 blue cooling. I tried the combo's you showed as well with my converted Z6 ( and in 2008 with my converted Nikon D 200, which I sold and I kind of regretted that (UV-photography ).
It looks like the C8 is equivalent to the 80C, which I have acquired, but not yet tested. hoyafilterusa.com/products/c8-color-conversion 80C (C8) cools by 1700° K 80A (C12) cools by 2200° K Thanks!
Rob, you did a great job on this IR presentation! Some additional comments: There are other manufacturers that make 80A, 80B and 80C filters. I have tested using Hoya and get great results. But I also have a Rokunar 80A filter, and the results are not so good. I suspect that the response to IR light is likely different since for a visible light photographer, this is not a concern. I don't have any other 80A manufacturers. In place of the Hoya X0 and X1, I have several other filters that I like: Asanuma YG(X0) -- This is a hard-to-find filter and produces very good results. Лomo Ж3-1.4x Yellow -- This Russian filter, also hard-to-find, produces great results. Vivitar YG(X1) -- Slightly different results than the Hoya X1 filter. And finally, a one filter solution that can replace all three. There are two manufacturers, but they seem to work identically. Both are hard-to-find, but by using a single filter, are less likely to cause vignetting at wider focal lengths. Vivitar Cromo Blend Blue Tiffen Blue Vari-Color Blue Be sure to do this with a full spectrum modified camera.
I’ve picked up more filters to test, such as the 80C, 82A, Лomo Ж3-1.4x Yellow, and the Tiffen Vari Color Red-Blue (different than the blue-only variant). Still on the hunt for the others. This is becoming as addictive and hunting for vintage lenses. 🤑
The Tiffen Vari Color Red-Blue is controlled from red to blue with an additional polarizing filter that when rotated changes the color. I have the fixed Tiffen Vari Color Red and the fixed Tiffen Vari Color Yellow, but haven't produced anything useful with those filters.
And I should add that with mirrorless cameras, it does not matter if you use a circular polarizing filter, or a linear polarizing filter. The mirrorless cameras don't care.
Another hint is that you can get very interesting results in changing the camera's white balance (white/gray card WB, sunny WB, cloudy WB, etc.) Of course, other things in the image can take on strange colors. But strange looking sky colors can easily be fixed with Photoshop's sky replacement. Or in Lightroom, masking is now so powerful that you can fix all sorts of strange color problems with things you don't want to have strange colors.
The 80A and the 82A combined, along with doing a custom white balance on the blue sky produces an interesting burnt orange/brown result that is interesting. Sometimes the camera might not succeed in doing a sky blue WB and what I find works is to bump up the exposure compensation 2 stops, then do the white balance, and then go back to the desired exposure compensation. And the Лomo Ж3-1.4x Yellow filter + 80A is interesting too. With different white balances, the results will vary. With a cloudy WB, the results are similar to what I see with the Kolari IR Chrome filter, and with a Sky Blue WB, the results show more orange.
There is so much variety of using filter combinations like these, that it is difficult to remember what results different combinations can produce. A solution to this that I use is to use a spreadsheet where I create tabs for each filter combination. And on that tab, I will paste examples along with what white balance I used and what I did in processing the image. And it really helps me remember.
This is why I wanted to start with a comparison like this. I took notes while shooting, added each filter as keywords in LRC, and it was still tricky to keep track. Taking good notes when switching filters is critical.
Hi Rob, Sometimes I use the Hoya YA3, the green one, coupled with the R1 Pro 590 nm or the orange 550 nm. I read onto an infrared forum that these combos could simulate the Aerochrome. Of course, I can’t use them with ultra wideangles because of the vignetting.
One more thing, there is an alternate manufacturer that produces a KB20 filter. I have not tested this alternate filter, and from what I have seen with the 80A, I wouldn't blindly believe it could produce the same results.
I recommend Hoya and B+W filters. The 80A, X0, and X1 should be easy to find from a variety of manufacturers, new and used. I purchased these filters from B&H, Amazon, and eBay. The KB-20 is going to be harder to find; I found it on eBay.
Here is a B+W KB20 filter on eBay right now. Says it is 48mm. This is a strange size for filters. 48mm is used with astro telescopes, but this is not a type of filter that would be popular for astrophotography. It is possible to get a step up filter to go to 49mm or even 52mm or 55mm. But there is risk of vignetting using a 48mm filter on a lens that wants something larger. I am showing this one as the KB20 filter is difficult to find. You need to keep trying to find the harder ones to find and perhaps you get lucky and find it. I like to use a moderately wide angle lens for this type of photography. And if I am going to stack filters, I like to use a larger filter than matches the lens filter threads and use step-up rings to make it fit. For my modified Olympus EM5ii, I use an Olympus 14-42mm lens and it's filter size is only 37mm, so I bought a number of 49mm filters to use with it. But I also have the Panasonic 14-42mm lens, and it's filter size is 52mm, so now I try to only buy 55mm or larger filters.
Rob how do Candy Pink and some of the newer color presets translate into print? I am putting together my first Blurb printed Infrared book and I am wondering if some of the more dynamic colors will not print well. What are your thoughts?
When printing infrared, some of the colors that look great on screen will not always be available in print. If you are using LRC, I recommend making a soft proof of each image you intend to print, setting the desired output color space, and adjusting as needed. Here is a video on the topic: th-cam.com/video/aDVRetYytgg/w-d-xo.html
If you are using a temperature shifting profile, the exact temperature doesn’t matter. I prefer something between 2,000 and 50,000 so that I have the ability to tweak. If it is at either end of the scale exactly, you loose that ability.
I love the challenge of making the colors and there's no way I would have the patience to make all the vegetation color correctly in PS. QQ Is a KB-15 = an 80A? I'm wondering why the chart showed the 80A in parenthesis. It seems odd that there is a 'U' for all other KB-XX filters, but the 15 ends up being a ski slope. Thanks!
I don't know that anyone has found the perfect way to recreate it. But as a result of the chase, we have many new styles to choose from, such as those in this video, more filters I'll be testing, and dual bandpass filters such as IR Chrome.
No matter how I try to load your profiles they do not show up in Lightroom. I have added other profiles but yours do not show up. I've read everything I can but I can't figure out why they don't show up.
Love the KD-20 + X0, thanks for sharing, brilliant as always.
Brilliant, only the other day I was shooting some sunflowers using normal and converted cameras, I experimented with an 80B filter on the full spectrum, the results look interesting, I haven't put them on the computer yet. Will now look to try other filters and combinations! 😀
Fascinating! Someone popped up on reddit using the 80A and getting really interesting results. I wasn't sure I believed it
I really loved this video .. thanks for sharing ur finding
Great video. I’m more interested in black and white infrared. This video is encouraging me to experiment with filters
Love this! I should experiment more with filter combinations, so many fun color palettes to play with.
I still miss Aerochrome ... 🦘
Hi Rob, nice video again.
Another nice combo stack is the Hoya X 1 + Hoya C8 blue cooling.
I tried the combo's you showed as well with my converted Z6 ( and in 2008 with my converted Nikon D 200,
which I sold and I kind of regretted that (UV-photography ).
It looks like the C8 is equivalent to the 80C, which I have acquired, but not yet tested. hoyafilterusa.com/products/c8-color-conversion
80C (C8) cools by 1700° K
80A (C12) cools by 2200° K
Thanks!
Rob, you did a great job on this IR presentation!
Some additional comments:
There are other manufacturers that make 80A, 80B and 80C filters. I have tested using Hoya and get great results. But I also have a Rokunar 80A filter, and the results are not so good. I suspect that the response to IR light is likely different since for a visible light photographer, this is not a concern. I don't have any other 80A manufacturers.
In place of the Hoya X0 and X1, I have several other filters that I like:
Asanuma YG(X0) -- This is a hard-to-find filter and produces very good results.
Лomo Ж3-1.4x Yellow -- This Russian filter, also hard-to-find, produces great results.
Vivitar YG(X1) -- Slightly different results than the Hoya X1 filter.
And finally, a one filter solution that can replace all three. There are two manufacturers, but they seem to work identically. Both are hard-to-find, but by using a single filter, are less likely to cause vignetting at wider focal lengths.
Vivitar Cromo Blend Blue
Tiffen Blue Vari-Color Blue
Be sure to do this with a full spectrum modified camera.
I’ve picked up more filters to test, such as the 80C, 82A, Лomo Ж3-1.4x Yellow, and the Tiffen Vari Color Red-Blue (different than the blue-only variant). Still on the hunt for the others. This is becoming as addictive and hunting for vintage lenses. 🤑
The Tiffen Vari Color Red-Blue is controlled from red to blue with an additional polarizing filter that when rotated changes the color. I have the fixed Tiffen Vari Color Red and the fixed Tiffen Vari Color Yellow, but haven't produced anything useful with those filters.
And I should add that with mirrorless cameras, it does not matter if you use a circular polarizing filter, or a linear polarizing filter. The mirrorless cameras don't care.
Another hint is that you can get very interesting results in changing the camera's white balance (white/gray card WB, sunny WB, cloudy WB, etc.) Of course, other things in the image can take on strange colors. But strange looking sky colors can easily be fixed with Photoshop's sky replacement. Or in Lightroom, masking is now so powerful that you can fix all sorts of strange color problems with things you don't want to have strange colors.
The 80A and the 82A combined, along with doing a custom white balance on the blue sky produces an interesting burnt orange/brown result that is interesting. Sometimes the camera might not succeed in doing a sky blue WB and what I find works is to bump up the exposure compensation 2 stops, then do the white balance, and then go back to the desired exposure compensation.
And the Лomo Ж3-1.4x Yellow filter + 80A is interesting too. With different white balances, the results will vary. With a cloudy WB, the results are similar to what I see with the Kolari IR Chrome filter, and with a Sky Blue WB, the results show more orange.
There is so much variety of using filter combinations like these, that it is difficult to remember what results different combinations can produce. A solution to this that I use is to use a spreadsheet where I create tabs for each filter combination. And on that tab, I will paste examples along with what white balance I used and what I did in processing the image. And it really helps me remember.
This is why I wanted to start with a comparison like this. I took notes while shooting, added each filter as keywords in LRC, and it was still tricky to keep track. Taking good notes when switching filters is critical.
Hi Rob,
Sometimes I use the Hoya YA3, the green one, coupled with the R1 Pro 590 nm or the orange 550 nm. I read onto an infrared forum that these combos could simulate the Aerochrome. Of course, I can’t use them with ultra wideangles because of the vignetting.
I'll give that a try in my next set of tests. Thanks!
One more thing, there is an alternate manufacturer that produces a KB20 filter. I have not tested this alternate filter, and from what I have seen with the 80A, I wouldn't blindly believe it could produce the same results.
Interested in these filters but I cannot find any available. Can you post some suppliers please?
I recommend Hoya and B+W filters. The 80A, X0, and X1 should be easy to find from a variety of manufacturers, new and used. I purchased these filters from B&H, Amazon, and eBay. The KB-20 is going to be harder to find; I found it on eBay.
Here is a B+W KB20 filter on eBay right now. Says it is 48mm. This is a strange size for filters. 48mm is used with astro telescopes, but this is not a type of filter that would be popular for astrophotography. It is possible to get a step up filter to go to 49mm or even 52mm or 55mm. But there is risk of vignetting using a 48mm filter on a lens that wants something larger.
I am showing this one as the KB20 filter is difficult to find. You need to keep trying to find the harder ones to find and perhaps you get lucky and find it.
I like to use a moderately wide angle lens for this type of photography. And if I am going to stack filters, I like to use a larger filter than matches the lens filter threads and use step-up rings to make it fit. For my modified Olympus EM5ii, I use an Olympus 14-42mm lens and it's filter size is only 37mm, so I bought a number of 49mm filters to use with it. But I also have the Panasonic 14-42mm lens, and it's filter size is 52mm, so now I try to only buy 55mm or larger filters.
Rob how do Candy Pink and some of the newer color presets translate into print? I am putting together my first Blurb printed Infrared book and I am wondering if some of the more dynamic colors will not print well. What are your thoughts?
When printing infrared, some of the colors that look great on screen will not always be available in print. If you are using LRC, I recommend making a soft proof of each image you intend to print, setting the desired output color space, and adjusting as needed. Here is a video on the topic: th-cam.com/video/aDVRetYytgg/w-d-xo.html
@@robshea Thank you so much!
Highly addictive this ir hobby - good job I can really only do b&w with my Sigma.
What's your ideal wb temperature, Rob - or does it vary?
If you are using a temperature shifting profile, the exact temperature doesn’t matter. I prefer something between 2,000 and 50,000 so that I have the ability to tweak. If it is at either end of the scale exactly, you loose that ability.
I love the challenge of making the colors and there's no way I would have the patience to make all the vegetation color correctly in PS. QQ
Is a KB-15 = an 80A? I'm wondering why the chart showed the 80A in parenthesis. It seems odd that there is a 'U' for all other KB-XX filters, but the 15 ends up being a ski slope. Thanks!
The B+W KB-15 is the same as the 80A from other manufacturers.
Thanks. Interesting numbering choice.
I was around for the chrome colour infrared film and desperately miss it. How do I recreate it? I guess it’s more Red than pink. Thanks!
I don't know that anyone has found the perfect way to recreate it. But as a result of the chase, we have many new styles to choose from, such as those in this video, more filters I'll be testing, and dual bandpass filters such as IR Chrome.
@@robshea thanks! I think your pink is very nice but it’s not quite right. Thank you for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated 🙏
This is high octane fuel for the GAS
💯
No matter how I try to load your profiles they do not show up in Lightroom. I have added other profiles but yours do not show up. I've read everything I can but I can't figure out why they don't show up.
Here is a guide to help: 590.red/where-profiles