I leave the light switch on all my vintage machines permanently in the on position, so as not to wear them out as they are fragile. The light also reminds me the machine is still plugged in, and I don’t leave a machine with a vintage foot pedal plugged in, just to be safe. Use a switched power bar for on / off.
I happen to do something similar without intending to save that switch. I plugged the machine (also my 66) to a switch because i don't like to plug and unplug each time, but also don't like to have the machine energized unattended. so the light is "on" all the time if I'm using the machine. I supposed it is a bonus that I don't activate the light switch
Our k models have a switch on the light itself, but perhaps an inline switch might work? Otherwise, I'd look at a 3-D printing whiz (I know of one in the US who is an engineer type person) and put the old metal parts back in as someone else suggested below. Brainstorm with them. And even on the K models, you still have the same issue with broken plastics. Seasons Greetings from NZ!😎🎅🏖
@@BobFowlerWorkshop get the original dies and injection equipment from Singer and go into production and make your own? Sounds like you are out of options right now.
@@pwhite2579 Singer didn't make these switches. It's a good thing these weren't injection molded, they wouldn't have lasted as long as they have! These are laminations of bakelite sheet with a formed sheetmetal top, all riveted together. Rest assured, I'll find a switch. It may take a while, but I'll find a source...
Yes, that's possible, but once again, my problem is that I do rewire services for folks who then have to reinstall the parts back onto their machine. I want to try to keep it as close to original as possible.
Snobbery people, really? As long as you don't claim totally original, what's the problem here? Miss out on using a nice machine because of a wart? My old ladies aren't perfect but they do the job. Hey Mr.Bob, what'chu know about old industrial machines? I'm thinking I need to power it. It's supposed to be a Singer zigzag cylinder arm. Space is tight. Ideas?
I think it is more than claiming original, I'll take a super modern switch as long as it fits in the space. I'm going to get a couple of the NTE 54005 and figure a way to use them without the spade connector, maybe some soldering ... not sure yet.
As a cosmetic measure, I suppose you could mold and cast the vintage plastic switch to slip over the modern silver toggle switch.
I leave the light switch on all my vintage machines permanently in the on position, so as not to wear them out as they are fragile. The light also reminds me the machine is still plugged in, and I don’t leave a machine with a vintage foot pedal plugged in, just to be safe. Use a switched power bar for on / off.
I happen to do something similar without intending to save that switch. I plugged the machine (also my 66) to a switch because i don't like to plug and unplug each time, but also don't like to have the machine energized unattended. so the light is "on" all the time if I'm using the machine. I supposed it is a bonus that I don't activate the light switch
Our k models have a switch on the light itself, but perhaps an inline switch might work? Otherwise, I'd look at a 3-D printing whiz (I know of one in the US who is an engineer type person) and put the old metal parts back in as someone else suggested below. Brainstorm with them. And even on the K models, you still have the same issue with broken plastics. Seasons Greetings from NZ!😎🎅🏖
3-d print the body and add internal metal parts from a modern switch?
😮 I didn't know that was possible!
Well, that might be ok if you're doing it for yourself, but I can't do that for someone else. It has to be UL rated...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop get the original dies and injection equipment from Singer and go into production and make your own? Sounds like you are out of options right now.
@@pwhite2579 Singer didn't make these switches. It's a good thing these weren't injection molded, they wouldn't have lasted as long as they have! These are laminations of bakelite sheet with a formed sheetmetal top, all riveted together. Rest assured, I'll find a switch. It may take a while, but I'll find a source...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop and we are hoping you will share with us. Granted I'm looking also, but I get the feeling you'll be the one who finds it.
could you not insulate the connectors with some heat shrink or is there not enough space for that
Yes, that's possible, but once again, my problem is that I do rewire services for folks who then have to reinstall the parts back onto their machine. I want to try to keep it as close to original as possible.
Would the "Philmore 30-1720" be a suitable replacement?
Why does it even need a switch. My 99 doesn't have a switch either does my 15..
The 201-2 has a light switch on the power block.
did you look at the 221 switch?
Same problem, finite supply of 50+ year old switches...
Snobbery people, really? As long as you don't claim totally original, what's the problem here? Miss out on using a nice machine because of a wart? My old ladies aren't perfect but they do the job. Hey Mr.Bob, what'chu know about old industrial machines? I'm thinking I need to power it. It's supposed to be a Singer zigzag cylinder arm. Space is tight. Ideas?
For industrials, my go-to is a good servo motor...
I think it is more than claiming original, I'll take a super modern switch as long as it fits in the space. I'm going to get a couple of the NTE 54005 and figure a way to use them without the spade connector, maybe some soldering ... not sure yet.