That is a possibility, however I believe this particular arbor was cut down on that side to make room for the teeth of another wheel or possibly a lever. If you'll notice, the other half of the arbor is thicker as well.
You are exactly right. Especially since my wrench is cheap and has a lot of play. It's better than using needle nose pliers, as I've seen others do. Some older clocks have misshapen nuts, so a wrench is handy in those cases. I do plan on getting drivers eventually.
I just started fooling around with these old clocks but so far I haven’t got into them as extensively as you have. I enjoyed your video and learned quite a bit. Thanks and keep it up.👍
I'm doing the same movement tomorrow, very helpful!
The change in the thickness of the shaft is probably a pivot repair with a slide over replacement pivot.
That is a possibility, however I believe this particular arbor was cut down on that side to make room for the teeth of another wheel or possibly a lever. If you'll notice, the other half of the arbor is thicker as well.
The video is very beautiful, your work is excellent, sir
Thank you!
That movement was made on October 1916. It’s on the front plate stamped. Was not 20’s 30’s.
Such was said later in the video and in the description.
No disrespect, but instead of using a 6 inch Crescent wrench a nut driver set would be more effective and less likely to cause damage.
You are exactly right. Especially since my wrench is cheap and has a lot of play. It's better than using needle nose pliers, as I've seen others do. Some older clocks have misshapen nuts, so a wrench is handy in those cases. I do plan on getting drivers eventually.
I just started fooling around with these old clocks but so far I haven’t got into them as extensively as you have.
I enjoyed your video and learned quite a bit. Thanks and keep it up.👍
Use your fingers!
37:00 it might stand for “1927 repair”
I’m another video I found it it actually stands for the model I think