Thank you for sharing. Been doing deep dives in to how to design distribution in my house and trying to figure out loads. Lot of install videos (straight forward) but not many explaining systems.
You are sharing amazing information, I would dive head first into this training if I could, I currently have 2 years installing Carrier split systems, doing change outs and new furnace / airhandlers installations, I would really like to get into mitsubishi, I've only done a few so far
Do you also work with PUMY-P(MINI VRF) City Multi Systems? This is even more flexible because you can connect branch boxes, VRF INDOOR Units directly and Hot Water Ecodan Hydroboxes to it?
Contact your local Mitsubishi reps and they will let you know. But you really need to take a deep dive into this technology to be good at it. There is a lot and I mean a lot of stuff to learn. It could take you a year or more to just get started.
I find it really odd that it’s not considered permissible to run over the total BTUs of the outdoor unit. The indoor units should never all be running at 100% output, unless you’re turning the system on for the very first time in a hot or cold house. I like to size the outdoor unit one step below what the indoor unit totals are to allow for an even smaller minimum output on the condenser, so my 6k and 9k indoor heads have a chance of actually modulating down. Greater modulation to the 1000-3000BTU range is so much more comfortable than a 6k bedroom unit cycling at 5 or 6000BTU all day and night. Maintaining room temp shouldn’t need 80-100% of a head’s output
All VRF units work like that. They never will ramp up to 100% capacity unless the load requires it. The altitude capacity changes in Colorado in the Denver area it's about 17-20% on average depending on elevation right out of the box so a 9k is more like a 6500k a 6k is more like a 4500k That's why you don't want to oversize the (2) indoor and outdoor units due to the De-rating drop.
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Thank you for sharing. Been doing deep dives in to how to design distribution in my house and trying to figure out loads. Lot of install videos (straight forward) but not many explaining systems.
What exactly would you like for us to show you? And thanks for watching
You are sharing amazing information, I would dive head first into this training if I could, I currently have 2 years installing Carrier split systems, doing change outs and new furnace / airhandlers installations, I would really like to get into mitsubishi, I've only done a few so far
Thank you so much for the message. I hope I helped you out. Thanks again and have a great day.
Awesome video, thank you so much
I liked that one myself! Thank you for watching the video.
Awesome video.
Thanks James
Good video. Looking to get started in business in MA. How do the H2 units do in cold weather.
They work great so long as you perform the best. I’m looking to expand our company let’s talk about working together.
Do they have anything to make hot water? I see the new heat pump hot water tanks but it would be nice to tie it into the outdoor unit.
I have been hearing this is in the works.
I'm going to the Mitsubishi National Convention Monday and Tuesday I'll ask the high ups!
Thanks, I know they have the ecodan over seas. Would be nice for domestic hot water and heated floors.
why does video doesn't have 61 million likes
That’s what I said!
Do you also work with PUMY-P(MINI VRF) City Multi Systems? This is even more flexible because you can connect branch boxes, VRF INDOOR Units directly and Hot Water Ecodan Hydroboxes to it?
We do however not very many right know. Most of the P units we just do 1-1s
What does it take to get started installing mini split HVAC, and also become a distributor with Mitsubishi?
Contact your local Mitsubishi reps and they will let you know. But you really need to take a deep dive into this technology to be good at it. There is a lot and I mean a lot of stuff to learn. It could take you a year or more to just get started.
How much you pay for this program ?looks helpful
It's free
I find it really odd that it’s not considered permissible to run over the total BTUs of the outdoor unit. The indoor units should never all be running at 100% output, unless you’re turning the system on for the very first time in a hot or cold house. I like to size the outdoor unit one step below what the indoor unit totals are to allow for an even smaller minimum output on the condenser, so my 6k and 9k indoor heads have a chance of actually modulating down. Greater modulation to the 1000-3000BTU range is so much more comfortable than a 6k bedroom unit cycling at 5 or 6000BTU all day and night. Maintaining room temp shouldn’t need 80-100% of a head’s output
All VRF units work like that. They never will ramp up to 100% capacity unless the load requires it. The altitude capacity changes in Colorado in the Denver area it's about 17-20% on average depending on elevation right out of the box so a 9k is more like a 6500k a 6k is more like a 4500k
That's why you don't want to oversize the (2) indoor and outdoor units due to the De-rating drop.
@@ductlessplushvac great point about the altitude. Gotcha!