Wow great detail(s) better than the best and I have rebuilt trans since the early 70's. Good Question: I was asked to determine why a Factory Rebuilt E4OD installed in 2013 with reportedly all factory upgraded E4OD internals and seals and with after only 9,500 miles on the unit, installed in a low mileage 93 IDI 7.3 with little to no towing after install would begin to leak out of the front of the transmission. However note the truck sat unused from 2018 till 2023 but after the truck was put back on the road in late 2023 the trans started spitting trans fluid out after only 2 months of very occasional driving ? This is usually a front pump seal or torque converter issue on high milage or over cooked transmissions. This truck since the rebuilt install from day one had a large 7.5 qt Derale cooling pan installed along with a large front independent cooler with cabin trans temp gauge. It reportedly has the newer type pump seal installed at time of rebuild by Ford factory rebuild division. Trans fluid does not smell burnt and is still a fresh red color. Any input and insight would be appreciated. Could having sat for 4.5 yrs have anything to do with it on a low mileage babied factory rebuild trans ?? - Thanks in advance.
it was hard to see if the lip on the seals @ 7:14+ were installed with the lip at the bottom of the drum or towards the top of the drum. Thanks so much for making these videos. I
Yeah I see that, I kinda show how it goes just before I put them in showing the lip in my hands but I see your point! Some things I take for granted but will show this stuff in upcoming videos! Thanks for the comment
Heh i think i commented on the wrong channel. I didnt get a chance to read the replay. Im the one with the transmission having issues shifting manual 1st and second. Sluggish in D but rev is fine. Thanks, for all the help.
@@marshallsanders5672 ok so, if its it D it feels like it starting in a higher gear. Reverse works fine. Manual 1 it doesnt move. Manual2 kinda moves. I dropped the pan, did a shift kit the sonnax. New filter new oil. New mlps sensor.
Have to check for codes and see if the computer is seeing something wrong. If there is no power to the trans shift solenoids it will try to take off in a higher gear.
@@marshallsanders5672 ok, using forscan got code po196. Also noticed when i pulled sensor on transfer case it put me on limp mode. When on D it grabs right away but can only go like 20 mph. When i plugged it back it. It got "lazy and would slowly accelerate as if im starting in a higher gear. If i move to manual 1 nothing manual 2 kinda wants to move. Ill message reading on next message
General rule is .010 per clutch but with that said that’s not a “normal” clutch pack. I would shoot for .060 on that, any more and you’ll most likely get a delayed reverse engagement. And .060 is plenty unless any instructions say specifically otherwise. Good Question!
I noticed that when you placed the bell vile spring on top of the wear ring, the spring’s flap partially overlapped the “wear ring”‘s gap (18.57 mark). Not sure that’s a good idea, as you are putting uneven pressure on that point of contact. IMO best leave the ‘gap in the gap’.
Hey have a question on E4OD. UPDATED CENTER SHAFT AND I AM USING OLD BEARINGS WITH NEW TRUST WASHERS ONLY FROM CENTER SUPPORT TO PUMP. PUMP WILL NOT FIT IN, TOO TIGHT. WHY? CENTER SUPPORT? CENTER SHAFT ( NO PILOT SHAFT ON END OF NEW ONE, OLD ONE DID ), CENTER SUPPORT LINED UP WITH CASE LOWER HALF EASY, NEXT PORTION WITH ONE THOUGH CASE FLUID BOLT, HAD TO PUSH WITH TOOL 3/16" TO GET SNAP RING AND 1 FLUID BOLT IN CASE. SOMETHING IS TO THICK AND NOT ALLOWING PUMP TO SET FLUSH IN CASE.
Gotcha if the second center support went in 3/16 “ push down because the return spring but the snap ring went in then it seems to me it’s from the HUB/Center Support bearing to the coast clutch drum ! I would be willing to bet the coast clutches are not all the way splined in to the hub ! Just have to pull just the gear train part back out and ensure everything is in order. Just be slow and mythological and you WILL find the reason !make sure you don’t have a bearing in backwards etc.
@Marshall Sanders I wish it was the clutches.1993 out of motorhome gas. I did that 3 times and set in as a complete stack. Not it! I feel like it has something to do with the new center shaft update. I removed pump o ring, thrust washer, and center shaft lower bearing and pump fell into to case. Wish we could talk
Definitely strange but just keep working the problem ! I guarantee it will show itself upon mythotical examining! If you have to just single the hub out and make sure it”clunks” bottoms out onto the center support with the Bearing installed. If the hub bottoms out against the center support that can’t be it unless it was literally made to thick Did you change anything else ? Send pics overdriven67@hotmail.com possibly the center support ball bearing not pressed in deep enough causing the hub to not contact the center support.
Wow great detail(s) better than the best and I have rebuilt trans since the early 70's. Good Question: I was asked to determine why a Factory Rebuilt E4OD installed in 2013 with reportedly all factory upgraded E4OD internals and seals and with after only 9,500 miles on the unit, installed in a low mileage 93 IDI 7.3 with little to no towing after install would begin to leak out of the front of the transmission. However note the truck sat unused from 2018 till 2023 but after the truck was put back on the road in late 2023 the trans started spitting trans fluid out after only 2 months of very occasional driving ? This is usually a front pump seal or torque converter issue on high milage or over cooked transmissions. This truck since the rebuilt install from day one had a large 7.5 qt Derale cooling pan installed along with a large front independent cooler with cabin trans temp gauge. It reportedly has the newer type pump seal installed at time of rebuild by Ford factory rebuild division. Trans fluid does not smell burnt and is still a fresh red color. Any input and insight would be appreciated. Could having sat for 4.5 yrs have anything to do with it on a low mileage babied factory rebuild trans ?? - Thanks in advance.
it was hard to see if the lip on the seals @ 7:14+ were installed with the lip at the bottom of the drum or towards the top of the drum. Thanks so much for making these videos. I
Yeah I see that, I kinda show how it goes just before I put them in showing the lip in my hands but I see your point! Some things I take for granted but will show this stuff in upcoming videos! Thanks for the comment
Heh i think i commented on the wrong channel.
I didnt get a chance to read the replay.
Im the one with the transmission having issues shifting manual 1st and second. Sluggish in D but rev is fine.
Thanks, for all the help.
All good, Let’s figure it out ! I’m willing to help any way I can without driving the truck myself !
@@marshallsanders5672 ok so, if its it D it feels like it starting in a higher gear. Reverse works fine.
Manual 1 it doesnt move. Manual2 kinda moves.
I dropped the pan, did a shift kit the sonnax. New filter new oil. New mlps sensor.
Have to check for codes and see if the computer is seeing something wrong. If there is no power to the trans shift solenoids it will try to take off in a higher gear.
@@marshallsanders5672 ok, using forscan got code po196.
Also noticed when i pulled sensor on transfer case it put me on limp mode. When on D it grabs right away but can only go like 20 mph. When i plugged it back it. It got "lazy and would slowly accelerate as if im starting in a higher gear. If i move to manual 1 nothing manual 2 kinda wants to move.
Ill message reading on next message
@@marshallsanders5672 actually can you send email so i can send you screen shots of the data i took.
So I’m running the Alto Red Clutches Power Pack and it puts 8 clutches into the Direct Drum so I should have about .080 of clearance?
General rule is .010 per clutch but with that said that’s not a “normal” clutch pack. I would shoot for .060 on that, any more and you’ll most likely get a delayed reverse engagement. And .060 is plenty unless any instructions say specifically otherwise. Good Question!
I noticed that when you placed the bell vile spring on top of the wear ring, the spring’s flap partially overlapped the “wear ring”‘s gap (18.57 mark).
Not sure that’s a good idea, as you are putting uneven pressure on that point of contact. IMO best leave the ‘gap in the gap’.
Point taken ! Not sure how important it is in that situation since it’s wedged in there but it is what it is !
This is probbaly a good argument to pull the trans and drop it off, instead of tearing it appart and trying to come up to speed.
It is a lot to rebuild your own transmission. Have to be in the right mindset and fully committed til it’s back on the road and working properly.
Hey have a question on E4OD. UPDATED CENTER SHAFT AND I AM USING OLD BEARINGS WITH NEW TRUST WASHERS ONLY FROM CENTER SUPPORT TO PUMP. PUMP WILL NOT FIT IN, TOO TIGHT. WHY? CENTER SUPPORT? CENTER SHAFT ( NO PILOT SHAFT ON END OF NEW ONE, OLD ONE DID ), CENTER SUPPORT LINED UP WITH CASE LOWER HALF EASY, NEXT PORTION WITH ONE THOUGH CASE FLUID BOLT, HAD TO PUSH WITH TOOL 3/16" TO GET SNAP RING AND 1 FLUID BOLT IN CASE. SOMETHING IS TO THICK AND NOT ALLOWING PUMP TO SET FLUSH IN CASE.
Gotcha if the second center support went in 3/16 “ push down because the return spring but the snap ring went in then it seems to me it’s from the HUB/Center Support bearing to the coast clutch drum ! I would be willing to bet the coast clutches are not all the way splined in to the hub ! Just have to pull just the gear train part back out and ensure everything is in order. Just be slow and mythological and you WILL find the reason !make sure you don’t have a bearing in backwards etc.
@Marshall Sanders
I wish it was the clutches.1993 out of motorhome gas. I did that 3 times and set in as a complete stack. Not it! I feel like it has something to do with the new center shaft update. I removed pump o ring, thrust washer, and center shaft lower bearing and pump fell into to case. Wish we could talk
Definitely strange but just keep working the problem ! I guarantee it will show itself upon mythotical examining! If you have to just single the hub out and make sure it”clunks” bottoms out onto the center support with the Bearing installed. If the hub bottoms out against the center support that can’t be it unless it was literally made to thick Did you change anything else ? Send pics overdriven67@hotmail.com possibly the center support ball bearing not pressed in deep enough causing the hub to not contact the center support.
@@marshallsanders5672
Hmm, good one. I will check that.
I will email you more info. Thanks for answering me.
How do you change the bushings that were bad?
I show changing bushings in my “pump from hell” build video
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you! Also, where do you get all your parts from?
I get 90% of my parts from WIT transmission parts, PA Cargo, or Transtar.
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you I appreciate it