Absolutely the most educational video I've seen! This will help me for a lifetime and beyond. I have complete faith and trust in my workmanship because of your example. Thank you!
Wow! Fantastic videos on the E4OD. I actually have the exact same truck. 97 7.3 4x4 with the E4OD . Really enjoyed watching. You are a excellent teacher! Thanks!!
thank you very much for your effort making these videos! my transmission is about 3k out of rebuild and needs to be redone again i lost total trust in the shop that rebuild it. i will rebuild it now with your help thanks again.
Your welcome, Sorry to hear that for sure. You should have success with all my videos, they are lengthy but i did my best to not leave anything out as far as a total rebuild. Just take your time and pay attention to everything especially what the failure was.
Hey what happened to putting a spiral snap ring in where that one snap ring pops out? I think it was on top of the overdrive piston. I thought that was essential. Love the rebuild otherwise, looking to do my 1996 E350 powerstroke soon and appreciate real pros like you and precision transmission putting the info out there for us. Nice Yuengling beer sign by the way, I grew up in the heart of Yuengling country!
Yeah for some reason I didn’t video tape putting the spiral snap ring in but it did go into the build. I ALWAYS put that in. Good catch on that one. Pretty cool you grew up in Yuengling country as well. Thanks for the comment happy building my friend!
Thanks much for your videos I am rebuilding a 94 e4od Would love to upgrade to a 6 pinion steel forward planet from a 98 4r100 not sure if it will work gotta tell you your videos are very helpful thanks
I finally have everything ready and started loading the guts, but seems to be having a problem. I don't really have rear end play between center support and everything behind it. Took it all apart down to reverse clutch hub, and triple checked everything, especially the thrust bearing orientations, and I didn't find anything. There is no end play shim installed. The thrust washers on rear planet are new, but they calipered to be only 5/10000th thicker than old ones. What changed in that section are, Drive shell ( newer design hardened shell) and Forward planet ( with a proper ring gear for thrust bearing) . Center support was already a bearing type but no snap ring mod. I checked the clearance between the case shoulder and direct drum with center support plastic thrust washer on top with a straight edge and maybe got 0.02". Before I bolt in the center support and OD/intermediate piston , I am able to spin the output shaft by hand, but when they go on, output shaft is not moving at all..is this a sure shot sign of not enough endplay? If you can give me a pointer to trouble shoot, or any solution to increase the endplay, that will be really appreciated. By the way, I was having to undo the pre-loctited feed bolts, and instead of ordering a new set and wait for them to arrive, , I am just using blue loctite stick . Would this be ok? Thanks again for the help. Happy holidays!
I put the input shaft in the center shaft, and air applied the forward clutch while turning the input shaft. the output shaft turned with the input shaft, and now it can turn with hands with some effort. .I have no previous experience to compare to, but definitely more effort is needed than before the center support went in. Just adding a bit more information. Thank you
It sounds like there is just not enough endplay. There needs to be at least .015" with .025" being optimal. Did you check it the way I showed in the video with the screw driver under the direct drum? I have another video "Loading the Guts" into the case on my channel that shows it a little better and the solution I came up with for that one that didn't have enough endplay. 45:00 min. into that video it shows the endplay check. The Blue Loctite stick will work as well just be sure not to over torque them. Also in my "Building the Guts" Pt. 6 video at 50:00 min. in I talk about endplay as well, Be sure to check that one out also since your having issues with yours.
Good morning, a question: if apparently I followed all your instructions and when I tested the truck it did not enter the last gear, what would fail me? ☹️☹️☹️
Oh man sorry to hear that. Bottom line is you need to scan it and see if the computer is commanding 4th gear. What was the original problem? did you find something wrong with 4th upon tear down? O/D stalk cancel button working as it should? Unplugging connector should give you 4th gear to possibly determine whether the trans or computer system is the problem. There are multiple factor to cause no O/D just have to narrow it down till the problem presents itself
1 question you didn't show the final torquing of the center support, hope you didn't forget? or was the just not filmed because you covered it in "loading the guts" video?
Yeah with these I hand tighten them to about 6ft. Lbs. and when I bolt the valve body down I torque them to 10-12 lbs. I thought I mentioned that but it is what it is. Thanks for the comment
I have one more thing I would like to ask and if I am asking too much please let me know (I am nearly done with this E4OD but looking like I may have one more right after this one). Do you think that bottom inner sprag race might be “mechanic proof”? As in there is only one way all the bolt holes will line up? Just curious why there is no mention of its orientation in the ATSG manual. Oh and I copied your tool for the 2nd/OD piston housing. Thanks!
Your all good man! I don't believe it is mechanic proof I think it will bolt 5 different ways. Not for 100% certain on that but i believe it works like that. Awesome about the tool situation not necessary to spend hundreds on tools when you can just make them when possible.
Thanks again! I wish there was a way to properly thank you like buy you lunch or a 6er of your favorite beverage. This is the first one of these I have worked on. It’s more challenging than I expected. I feel like I may have had to pull it back out once or twice had I not found your videos. I am still a bit confused about the center support and the modifications you made buy taking it down some. I am going to review the videos and see if I can find what you said. My rear end play feels like around 15 to 20 thousands and other than the forward clutch being burned up and the big lip seal on direct being torn up I don’t see any damage……..but it looks like it got some water inside the case at some point. I believe that’s what caused the issues. I thought I was never going to get all of the spacer plate gasket material off.
@@Roscotech Yes Sir Its one of the reasons i'm doing these videos is to help people like you to just make sure EVERYTHING is "right and tight". I've built hundreds of these transmissions and have seen many,many problems as well. I feel I have a pretty good grip on building them and just like to spread knowledge and i'm ALWAYS attempting to learn as well. I'm glad my videos have helped out in getting yours right. Sounds like your rear end play is fine a bit tight but fine. Water is a transmission killer for sure just make sure its not the coolant leaking into the trans fluid via the transmission cooler in the radiator seen that many times! Getting those gaskets off can be a bitch when water is introduced. I always just soak the plate in the water of the hot steam tank and they come right off! But when no steam tank is available I usually use a razor blade on edge and scrape off as best I can then use a flat file to get the rest! You'd be surprised how well a flat file removes gasket material off the plate if the gasket material has been scraped and isn't to thick. As far as the center support goes where the center support contacts the case it causes wear to the case and support! companies just machine .052 thousandths off the outer back edge of a worn center support and just add a snap ring against the case taking up the machined space. Then the center support has a whole steel snap ring to ride on instead of a small amount of aluminum case (factory) and the wear is eliminated. Look up Shamrock Performance E4OD center support machining on You-Tube and you'll see them machine it down. You can also go to Sonnax website look up E4OD parts and you can see the instructions on putting that in as well. I appreciate the offer were all good where do you live in the world? I live in Clarksburg MD. I have had people on my channel offer me similar stuff for helping them and hope in my future travels to hang out with some of my fellow You-Tubers/subscribers your all pretty cool and it becomes just one big family of everyone just helping each other out!
I am just a skip north of Houston in Conroe Tx. The man that owns the shop I work at was once a builder himself. He has since left that all behind and built himself an impressive empire made up of many different businesses. His son also has a business degree and is quite the go getter himself. The one real piece of equipment left is a full size cleaning cabinet which is very helpful. I have thoughts of opening a bench build style shop to service shops and a managed amount of general public services. I want to get a lathe to resurface pumps and other items. I would also provide programming for later models stock needs as well as supply parts, shift kits, hard parts, other rebuild parts . I think I could operate decently out of an office wear house set up. I’m slowly taking myself into it. I think there is a place for it.
Marshall love your tuitional my? is my lower drum would not fit into the clutch pack unless I pulled it and clutches out installed drum and then clutches did air test looks good But it will not rotate clockwise (or counter) concerned lower sprag race was hard to get over sprag . any help appreciated
Pull the drum out see if there is sufficient clutch clearance first. Sounds like you may have the roller clutch in backwards. Install the drum without clutches and see if it works correctly. Just keep checking and rechecking until you find the problem.
Gotcha As long as all the rollers and springs are in place,The roller clutch is locked in the drum and it turns Clockwise and LOCKS Counterclockwise should be good. Shouldn’t be to hard to turn without clutches but it sounds like you have it covered.
You should be able to get it almost anywhere just have to order it separately. The good gasket will only work on later transmissions 96-up unless you change the pan to a smooth bolt hole style. Usually the cork is for 89-95 early pans that have the raised "bosses" where the bolts go through the pan. Not sure if that's the one they sent you or not. Doorman makes a nice late pan for these.
Yes I used to use the “Blue plate Specials” back in the day for all my Heavy Duty builds they were the best out there back 20 yrs ago ! They are good clutches, I’ve never used the Rabestos “Red” clutches but I have to assume there pretty good. For the past 20 years I’ve always used the Alto “Red” clutches and that has served me well. The “Stock” Rabestos clutches are not as good as Borg Warner and I always use Borg Warner over Raybestos whenever possible on a stock/Somewhat Heavy duty rebuild. With that said the most important thing I can convey is a “Rock Solid” rebuild/all the building basics covered ! Bushings/ clearances/valves/bearings/endplays/washers/hard parts etc. A “Right and Tight” transmission will help “ANY” clutch live a Happy life if that makes sense. It took me many years to learn this lesson but it is fact ! Everyone talks about the latest and greatest while skipping the most important thing is the basic “Right and Tight” mentality. I could go further down this Rabbit hole but I’ll leave it at that ! I hope this helps your decision making in your clutch selection.
Always good to watch your videos👍. The endplay of the front stuck is about 0.04 at mine. Rear endplay is fine but on the very tight side. Is there and possibility to tight the front endplay to the specs? And for future what is the was to create a bigger play on the end if it is necessary. Thanks for helping
My low reverse drum in my E4OD is a stamped steel one from a 4R100 is that ok to have? It's what was in there when I did the teardown. Also, I have a bonded overdrive piston, is there any issues with that? Thanks for answering all the questions, getting close to putting the trans together and don't want any issues.
Tim, it’s fine to use the stamped steel Low/Reverse drum just have to have 4R100 clutches and related parts for it. I’ve never seen any problems with those drums and/or setup! As far as the molded piston I personally prefer those pistons over lip seal type so if you have that I would definitely use it. With the rubber lip being bonded there is a lot less chance of being a problem down the road! Sounds like you have this thing under control at this point, I can’t stress enough cleanliness and taking your time to make sure everything is right on the bench. It’s the only time you can actually see what’s going on inside the trans if that makes sense. Any more questions don’t hesitate!
They make a special tool for a press but it’s not to difficult to use a large flat blade screwdriver. Just start by pushing one end of the snap-ring down in the groove against the spring pressure. Key is holding the other side from popping up. Once you get 1/4 way around slowly pushing it into the groove a little at a time it gets much easier and just keep working it into the groove. Works just fine!
Thanks for the fast response, I will do what you said and see where we get. Thanks again for all your help. I’m just about ready to put this transmission together. Its been a long journey of gathering up parts and just getting myself to the point of being able to do it.
I’d be tempted to take off the the mounts, sand blast them and give it a fresh coat of primer and paint … And take the case to the sander as well. Just aesthetically pleasing.
That’s a good question, I’ve seen them in or not in many different ones 4x4,2wd,vans etc. I always just put it in when there is a pocket in the case for it. Kinda extra insurance in my opinion
How did you go about cleaning all the parts? What would you suggest for a at home builder like myself. Thanks again for the videos, I have watched some of the videos a few times 😂. What would be the best way to store a trans after a rebuild if you didn’t have time to put in the vehicle right away? And how long could you store it before issues would arise? Thanks again.
Tim I have a steam tank meant for transmissions. Before I had that though at home I would use a pressure washer. First I would spray a degreaser of some sorts on the parts and scrub each one with a large nylon parts brush. Very important to get them as clean as possible by hand then blast them with the pressure washer. It works great but it is time consuming. the most important thing to note is as soon as you pressure wash say a few parts you have to air dry them thoroughly and immediately so they don't rust. That is all the large parts and case and then I use BRAKECLEAN for ALL of the small parts and valvebody. Any of the parts that didn't get perfectly clean with the pressure washer use Brake clean on them also. With that said the most important thing to note here is that all the parts be absolutely clean before rebuilding otherwise your just asking for after rebuild issues because of residual dirt running through your new rebuild.
Are you using ATF as your lube? Can you recommend a rebuild kit or supplier? I have a 99 F-350 DRW dump. Looks like the local Transtar has 36006EDPW in stock.
Tim it comes as a kit the center support is machined .052 thousandths and they give you a .052 snap ring to go against the case, Not sure what snap ring it is but I bet a person could just ask for it separately
I go to “Whatever it Takes”, PA Cargo, and Transtar for 90% of my parts. It’s hit and miss these days but they generally come through for me and get me “good” parts !
I used air pressure in the case port where the valvebody bolts on that feeds the low reverse piston ! The tear down video is on my channel under Ford F-250 Proper transmission rebuild .
Sir, I have a question, I have a 1992 F150 with the 351 that I’m converting into a 460. I wanted to swap all the internals from the 351 E4OD to the 460 E4OD. However, the 460 E4OD is from a 1996 model. Will the internals swap out or are the cases different?
Thank you for the response Sir, definitely following some pointers from your oil pump video as well as the valve body video. To add to your assembly video. It does instruct you on the transgo kit to remove every other spring from the end of the transmission. Weird but it does. I think that’s the reason my 4th gear hits a little hard. Thanks again Sir 👍👊
Interesting 🤔 the only thing taking springs out of the low/reverse return spring will affect is the reverse apply and the 1~2 shift. That will not effect the 3/4 shift in any way.
I am just checking the old pictures I took when disassembled the three E4oD-s .. -In the 1993 E4OD GAS Low Reverse clutches steels were: Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Pressure Plate -In the 1995 GAS E4OD Low Reverse clutches steels were: Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Pressure Plate -In the 1996 GAS E4OD Low Reverse clutches steels were: WAVE PLATE/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Pressure Plate The Reverse Pistons in all three are the same size Looks like they made some changes from 1996 also noticed the 4R100-s gas and Diesels got the Wave Plates in the Low Reverse section
Good point ! That’s where judgement comes in and no matter what he clutch STACK is as long as there is sufficient clearance when the clutches are not applied to spin free and not be to “LOOSE” your good to go !
Hi, Love your videos, your comments "this thing is mine" I just finished the 95 e350 e4od rebuild The issue I'm having is that I cannot turn the output shaft at all by hand .....don't want to force it... was turning fine and easy before the center support was installed...... took back everything just to double check, everything fine Any ideas on whether this is normal or not, and what the problem might be? or maybe the output shaft not supposed to turned by hand.
Keeping it simple make sure it’s not in park ! Most likely either the forward or direct clutches are not all the way splined to their respective hubs. Put a pair of large pliers on the output shaft and try to turn it, you won’t hurt anything. Should turn fairly easy with pliers. Possible bearing in backwards. That’s why I always am spinning everything as I’m putting in the parts and hearing that “CLUNK” when any part goes in. That tells me it all the way seated. It shouldn’t be to hard to figure it out. Did you change any parts ?
@@marshallsanders5672 Morning, Thanks for getting back on this. I did my 99 e350 7.3 diesel 4R100 last year all went good! No steels were changed in this one.....just the clutches etc, I already took it apart last night, will triple check everything again, also i am going to build another( gas E4OD) right beside it parallel just to practice and compare... Hopefully "this thing will be mine" Today I've got enough parts to build three e4od-s I did put a pair of large pliers on the output shaft and couldn't to turn it, also tried to turn it with the driveshaft assembly didn't move at all now getting paranoid and loosing confidence a bit... this is a hobby for me I am not going to fight it, I can sleep on it, but I will do the bench build first (the tower) out of the case just like you did, what a great idea!!!!
As soon as I took the 2 feeding bolts out from the Center support something get released and now I can turn the output shaft with minimum resistance freely by hand....
Marshall, great video!!! I would like to know more about beefing up a transmission for heavy-duty hauling. Like you said in the video, about adding more clutches and such. I have a 96 diesel with E4OD 4x4 that I pull a 40ft 5th wheel camper, that is close to 20,000 lbs, after 2 years this transmission is getting tired. I noticed in park to drive, it takes a couple moments to get in gear, same with going into reverse.
Wow gotcha ! That’s a lot of weight! Check out my new videos on E4OD building. It’s a few hours of watch time but insane “Proper”techniques in heavy duty situations to get a trans to last ! Especially the one that explains putting 6 clutches in the Direct and 5 clutches in the forward. With that weight you should probably put High Performance “Racing Style” Clutches in it also.
Absolutely the most educational video I've seen! This will help me for a lifetime and beyond. I have complete faith and trust in my workmanship because of your example. Thank you!
Wow! Fantastic videos on the E4OD. I actually have the exact same truck. 97 7.3 4x4 with the E4OD . Really enjoyed watching. You are a excellent teacher! Thanks!!
I have done a handful of transmissions in my life. This guy is undoubtedly the best i seen explain the 4r100. I never done one before this. Thank you
Appreciate the Comment determined to get “good” info out there ! Happy Building my friend !
thank you very much for your effort making these videos! my transmission is about 3k out of rebuild and needs to be redone again i lost total trust in the shop that rebuild it. i will rebuild it now with your help thanks again.
Your welcome, Sorry to hear that for sure. You should have success with all my videos, they are lengthy but i did my best to not leave anything out as far as a total rebuild. Just take your time and pay attention to everything especially what the failure was.
GOOD PRESENTATION GREAT INFO .THANKS
Hey what happened to putting a spiral snap ring in where that one snap ring pops out? I think it was on top of the overdrive piston. I thought that was essential. Love the rebuild otherwise, looking to do my 1996 E350 powerstroke soon and appreciate real pros like you and precision transmission putting the info out there for us. Nice Yuengling beer sign by the way, I grew up in the heart of Yuengling country!
Yeah for some reason I didn’t video tape putting the spiral snap ring in but it did go into the build. I ALWAYS put that in. Good catch on that one. Pretty cool you grew up in Yuengling country as well. Thanks for the comment happy building my friend!
You’re good! Appreciate your time and expertise! Thanks a million!
Thank You ! Glad you got something out of the video
Thanks much for your videos I am rebuilding a 94 e4od
Would love to upgrade to a 6 pinion steel forward planet from a 98 4r100 not sure if it will work gotta tell you your videos are very helpful thanks
Yes the 6 pinion will work just have to use the bearing and hub with it as well if the original planet didn’t have a thrust bearing.
If I use the bearing and hub that come with the six pinion, does that change the type of clutch I use
@@vincentizzo8408No nothing else needs to be changed. You’ll just use the new hub inside the original ring gear and your good to go!
Awesome job.
Super great job!
Thank You be sure to check out the latest E4OD/4R100 videos !
I finally have everything ready and started loading the guts, but seems to be having a problem. I don't really have rear end play between center support and everything behind it.
Took it all apart down to reverse clutch hub, and triple checked everything, especially the thrust bearing orientations, and I didn't find anything.
There is no end play shim installed. The thrust washers on rear planet are new, but they calipered to be only 5/10000th thicker than old ones.
What changed in that section are, Drive shell ( newer design hardened shell) and Forward planet ( with a proper ring gear for thrust bearing) .
Center support was already a bearing type but no snap ring mod.
I checked the clearance between the case shoulder and direct drum with center support plastic thrust washer on top with a straight edge and maybe got 0.02".
Before I bolt in the center support and OD/intermediate piston , I am able to spin the output shaft by hand, but when they go on, output shaft is not moving at all..is this a sure shot sign of not enough endplay?
If you can give me a pointer to trouble shoot, or any solution to increase the endplay, that will be really appreciated.
By the way, I was having to undo the pre-loctited feed bolts, and instead of ordering a new set and wait for them to arrive, , I am just using blue loctite stick . Would this be ok?
Thanks again for the help. Happy holidays!
I put the input shaft in the center shaft, and air applied the forward clutch while turning the input shaft.
the output shaft turned with the input shaft, and now it can turn with hands with some effort. .I have no previous experience to compare to, but definitely more effort is needed than before the center support went in. Just adding a bit more information. Thank you
It sounds like there is just not enough endplay. There needs to be at least .015" with .025" being optimal. Did you check it the way I showed in the video with the screw driver under the direct drum? I have another video "Loading the Guts" into the case on my channel that shows it a little better and the solution I came up with for that one that didn't have enough endplay. 45:00 min. into that video it shows the endplay check. The Blue Loctite stick will work as well just be sure not to over torque them. Also in my "Building the Guts" Pt. 6 video at 50:00 min. in I talk about endplay as well, Be sure to check that one out also since your having issues with yours.
Good morning, a question: if apparently I followed all your instructions and when I tested the truck it did not enter the last gear, what would fail me? ☹️☹️☹️
Oh man sorry to hear that. Bottom line is you need to scan it and see if the computer is commanding 4th gear. What was the original problem? did you find something wrong with 4th upon tear down? O/D stalk cancel button working as it should?
Unplugging connector should give you 4th gear to possibly determine whether the trans or computer system is the problem. There are multiple factor to cause no O/D just have to narrow it down till the problem presents itself
1 question you didn't show the final torquing of the center support, hope you didn't forget? or was the just not filmed because you covered it in "loading the guts" video?
Yeah with these I hand tighten them to about 6ft. Lbs. and when I bolt the valve body down I torque them to 10-12 lbs. I thought I mentioned that but it is what it is. Thanks for the comment
I have one more thing I would like to ask and if I am asking too much please let me know (I am nearly done with this E4OD but looking like I may have one more right after this one). Do you think that bottom inner sprag race might be “mechanic proof”? As in there is only one way all the bolt holes will line up? Just curious why there is no mention of its orientation in the ATSG manual. Oh and I copied your tool for the 2nd/OD piston housing. Thanks!
Your all good man! I don't believe it is mechanic proof I think it will bolt 5 different ways. Not for 100% certain on that but i believe it works like that. Awesome about the tool situation not necessary to spend hundreds on tools when you can just make them when possible.
Thanks again! I wish there was a way to properly thank you like buy you lunch or a 6er of your favorite beverage. This is the first one of these I have worked on. It’s more challenging than I expected. I feel like I may have had to pull it back out once or twice had I not found your videos. I am still a bit confused about the center support and the modifications you made buy taking it down some. I am going to review the videos and see if I can find what you said. My rear end play feels like around 15 to 20 thousands and other than the forward clutch being burned up and the big lip seal on direct being torn up I don’t see any damage……..but it looks like it got some water inside the case at some point. I believe that’s what caused the issues. I thought I was never going to get all of the spacer plate gasket material off.
@@Roscotech Yes Sir Its one of the reasons i'm doing these videos is to help people like you to just make sure EVERYTHING is "right and tight". I've built hundreds of these transmissions and have seen many,many problems as well. I feel I have a pretty good grip on building them and just like to spread knowledge and i'm ALWAYS attempting to learn as well. I'm glad my videos have helped out in getting yours right. Sounds like your rear end play is fine a bit tight but fine. Water is a transmission killer for sure just make sure its not the coolant leaking into the trans fluid via the transmission cooler in the radiator seen that many times!
Getting those gaskets off can be a bitch when water is introduced. I always just soak the plate in the water of the hot steam tank and they come right off! But when no steam tank is available I usually use a razor blade on edge and scrape off as best I can then use a flat file to get the rest! You'd be surprised how well a flat file removes gasket material off the plate if the gasket material has been scraped and isn't to thick.
As far as the center support goes where the center support contacts the case it causes wear to the case and support! companies just machine .052 thousandths off the outer back edge of a worn center support and just add a snap ring against the case taking up the machined space. Then the center support has a whole steel snap ring to ride on instead of a small amount of aluminum case (factory) and the wear is eliminated. Look up Shamrock Performance E4OD center support machining on You-Tube and you'll see them machine it down. You can also go to Sonnax website look up E4OD parts and you can see the instructions on putting that in as well.
I appreciate the offer were all good where do you live in the world? I live in Clarksburg MD. I have had people on my channel offer me similar stuff for helping them and hope in my future travels to hang out with some of my fellow You-Tubers/subscribers your all pretty cool and it becomes just one big family of everyone just helping each other out!
I am just a skip north of Houston in Conroe Tx. The man that owns the shop I work at was once a builder himself. He has since left that all behind and built himself an impressive empire made up of many different businesses. His son also has a business degree and is quite the go getter himself. The one real piece of equipment left is a full size cleaning cabinet which is very helpful. I have thoughts of opening a bench build style shop to service shops and a managed amount of general public services. I want to get a lathe to resurface pumps and other items. I would also provide programming for later models stock needs as well as supply parts, shift kits, hard parts, other rebuild parts . I think I could operate decently out of an office wear house set up. I’m slowly taking myself into it. I think there is a place for it.
Marshall love your tuitional my? is my lower drum would not fit into the clutch pack unless I pulled it and clutches out installed drum and then clutches did air test looks good But it will not rotate clockwise (or counter) concerned lower sprag race was hard to get over sprag . any help appreciated
Pull the drum out see if there is sufficient clutch clearance first. Sounds like you may have the roller clutch in backwards. Install the drum without clutches and see if it works correctly. Just keep checking and rechecking until you find the problem.
@@marshallsanders5672 will do thanks
Money turns hard but it turns
Gotcha As long as all the rollers and springs are in place,The roller clutch is locked in the drum and it turns Clockwise and LOCKS Counterclockwise should be good. Shouldn’t be to hard to turn without clutches but it sounds like you have it covered.
Where did you get the gasket from?. Transmission bench sends a cork one... Ugh
You should be able to get it almost anywhere just have to order it separately. The good gasket will only work on later transmissions 96-up unless you change the pan to a smooth bolt hole style. Usually the cork is for 89-95 early pans that have the raised "bosses" where the bolts go through the pan. Not sure if that's the one they sent you or not. Doorman makes a nice late pan for these.
What is your thoughts on the Raybestos Clutches? Do they compare to the others? Like are the Red or Blue ones good for Heavy Duty Builds? Thanks
Yes I used to use the “Blue plate Specials” back in the day for all my Heavy Duty builds they were the best out there back 20 yrs ago ! They are good clutches, I’ve never used the Rabestos “Red” clutches but I have to assume there pretty good. For the past 20 years I’ve always used the Alto “Red” clutches and that has served me well. The “Stock” Rabestos clutches are not as good as Borg Warner and I always use Borg Warner over Raybestos whenever possible on a stock/Somewhat Heavy duty rebuild.
With that said the most important thing I can convey is a “Rock Solid” rebuild/all the building basics covered ! Bushings/ clearances/valves/bearings/endplays/washers/hard parts etc. A “Right and Tight” transmission will help “ANY” clutch live a Happy life if that makes sense. It took me many years to learn this lesson but it is fact ! Everyone talks about the latest and greatest while skipping the most important thing is the basic “Right and Tight” mentality.
I could go further down this Rabbit hole but I’ll leave it at that ! I hope this helps your decision making in your clutch selection.
@@marshallsanders5672 sure does, I will be going with the Alto Red Clutches. Thanks again for all your help and knowledge.
Always good to watch your videos👍. The endplay of the front stuck is about 0.04 at mine. Rear endplay is fine but on the very tight side. Is there and possibility to tight the front endplay to the specs? And for future what is the was to create a bigger play on the end if it is necessary. Thanks for helping
My low reverse drum in my E4OD is a stamped steel one from a 4R100 is that ok to have? It's what was in there when I did the teardown. Also, I have a bonded overdrive piston, is there any issues with that? Thanks for answering all the questions, getting close to putting the trans together and don't want any issues.
Tim, it’s fine to use the stamped steel Low/Reverse drum just have to have 4R100 clutches and related parts for it. I’ve never seen any problems with those drums and/or setup!
As far as the molded piston I personally prefer those pistons over lip seal type so if you have that I would definitely use it. With the rubber lip being bonded there is a lot less chance of being a problem down the road!
Sounds like you have this thing under control at this point, I can’t stress enough cleanliness and taking your time to make sure everything is right on the bench. It’s the only time you can actually see what’s going on inside the trans if that makes sense. Any more questions don’t hesitate!
@@marshallsanders5672 How do you compress the Overdrive bonded piston return spring to put the spiral snap ring in? Thanks.
They make a special tool for a press but it’s not to difficult to use a large flat blade screwdriver. Just start by pushing one end of the snap-ring down in the groove against the spring pressure. Key is holding the other side from popping up. Once you get 1/4 way around slowly pushing it into the groove a little at a time it gets much easier and just keep working it into the groove. Works just fine!
Thanks for the fast response, I will do what you said and see where we get. Thanks again for all your help. I’m just about ready to put this transmission together. Its been a long journey of gathering up parts and just getting myself to the point of being able to do it.
Your welcome! It really goes in fairly easy that way. Just remember be super clean thourough and 1 part at a time.
Good video and informative thank you buddy 👍👍 I m start by checking my solenoid pack👍👍
I’d be tempted to take off the the mounts, sand blast them and give it a fresh coat of primer and paint …
And take the case to the sander as well. Just aesthetically pleasing.
Yep that is definitely an option but when a person is actually building shit time is of the essence!
Ay Chief, that second tiny filter w/ coil spring, Ford dealer couldnt explain which models have that, is that for 4x4 models only ?
That’s a good question, I’ve seen them in or not in many different ones 4x4,2wd,vans etc.
I always just put it in when there is a pocket in the case for it. Kinda extra insurance in my opinion
@@marshallsanders5672 Thanks you rock, what i just heard is these tiny filter w/coil spring are only in 91-98, can you confirm only till 98 ???
How did you go about cleaning all the parts? What would you suggest for a at home builder like myself. Thanks again for the videos, I have watched some of the videos a few times 😂. What would be the best way to store a trans after a rebuild if you didn’t have time to put in the vehicle right away? And how long could you store it before issues would arise? Thanks again.
Tim I have a steam tank meant for transmissions. Before I had that though at home I would use a pressure washer. First I would spray a degreaser of some sorts on the parts and scrub each one with a large nylon parts brush. Very important to get them as clean as possible by hand then blast them with the pressure washer. It works great but it is time consuming. the most important thing to note is as soon as you pressure wash say a few parts you have to air dry them thoroughly and immediately so they don't rust. That is all the large parts and case and then I use BRAKECLEAN for ALL of the small parts and valvebody. Any of the parts that didn't get perfectly clean with the pressure washer use Brake clean on them also.
With that said the most important thing to note here is that all the parts be absolutely clean before rebuilding otherwise your just asking for after rebuild issues because of residual dirt running through your new rebuild.
Are you using ATF as your lube? Can you recommend a rebuild kit or supplier? I have a 99 F-350 DRW dump. Looks like the local Transtar has 36006EDPW in stock.
The lube I use is 50% STP and 50% Transmission fluid ! As far as the kit Transtar sells top quality kits and should do fine for you.
Why dont you use a t4 stone instead of a file? Just curious.
Yep I’ve just never used a stone but that is a good idea. Thanks for the comment!
What snap ring did you use for the center support to ride on? Thanks in advance.
Tim it comes as a kit the center support is machined .052 thousandths and they give you a .052 snap ring to go against the case, Not sure what snap ring it is but I bet a person could just ask for it separately
Is this a kit from Sonnex?
Sonnax sells the snap ring and multiple places sell the machined center support with the snap-ring
Great videos Marshall. Where do you buy your parts. I want a 6 gear planet in mine, among other upgrades.
I go to “Whatever it Takes”, PA Cargo, and Transtar for 90% of my parts. It’s hit and miss these days but they generally come through for me and get me “good” parts !
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you for the quick response!
Where are you located I would like to her you to rebuild my 2013 ford e350 trans ?
how did you take the lower reverse piston out, Im trying to get mine out but it looks like it implemented in the case.
I used air pressure in the case port where the valvebody bolts on that feeds the low reverse piston !
The tear down video is on my channel under Ford F-250 Proper transmission rebuild .
@@marshallsanders5672 ok thank you. Do you do more information on rebuilding the valve body?
@@connersawyer6743 My Hydraulics 101 video goes quite in depth on that
Sir,
I have a question, I have a 1992 F150 with the 351 that I’m converting into a 460. I wanted to swap all the internals from the 351 E4OD to the 460 E4OD. However, the 460 E4OD is from a 1996 model. Will the internals swap out or are the cases different?
The internals will go into the case no problem just be sure to use the correct solenoid pack.
Thank you for the response Sir, definitely following some pointers from your oil pump video as well as the valve body video.
To add to your assembly video. It does instruct you on the transgo kit to remove every other spring from the end of the transmission. Weird but it does. I think that’s the reason my 4th gear hits a little hard.
Thanks again Sir 👍👊
Interesting 🤔 the only thing taking springs out of the low/reverse return spring will affect is the reverse apply and the 1~2 shift. That will not effect the 3/4 shift in any way.
Look at 50:28 of the video and check your end plays front and back VERY IMPORTANT!
I will check ...
Thanks again
I am just checking the old pictures I took when disassembled the three E4oD-s ..
-In the 1993 E4OD GAS Low Reverse clutches steels were:
Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Pressure Plate
-In the 1995 GAS E4OD Low Reverse clutches steels were:
Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Pressure Plate
-In the 1996 GAS E4OD Low Reverse clutches steels were:
WAVE PLATE/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Steel/Clutch/Pressure Plate
The Reverse Pistons in all three are the same size
Looks like they made some changes from 1996
also noticed the 4R100-s gas and Diesels got the Wave Plates in the Low Reverse section
Good point ! That’s where judgement comes in and no matter what he clutch STACK is as long as there is sufficient clearance when the clutches are not applied to spin free and not be to “LOOSE” your good to go !
@@marshallsanders5672 Great Thanks
Hi,
Love your videos, your comments "this thing is mine"
I just finished the 95 e350 e4od rebuild
The issue I'm having is that I cannot turn the output shaft at all by hand .....don't want to force it...
was turning fine and easy before the center support was installed......
took back everything just to double check, everything fine
Any ideas on whether this is normal or not, and what the problem might be?
or maybe the output shaft not supposed to turned by hand.
Keeping it simple make sure it’s not in park ! Most likely either the forward or direct clutches are not all the way splined to their respective hubs. Put a pair of large pliers on the output shaft and try to turn it, you won’t hurt anything. Should turn fairly easy with pliers. Possible bearing in backwards. That’s why I always am spinning everything as I’m putting in the parts and hearing that “CLUNK” when any part goes in. That tells me it all the way seated. It shouldn’t be to hard to figure it out. Did you change any parts ?
Check the video at 50:28 and check your end plays front and rear
@@marshallsanders5672 Morning,
Thanks for getting back on this.
I did my 99 e350 7.3 diesel 4R100 last year all went good!
No steels were changed in this one.....just the clutches etc,
I already took it apart last night, will triple check everything again, also i am going to build another( gas E4OD) right beside it parallel just to practice and compare...
Hopefully "this thing will be mine" Today
I've got enough parts to build three e4od-s
I did put a pair of large pliers on the output shaft and couldn't to turn it, also tried to turn it with the driveshaft assembly didn't move at all now getting paranoid and loosing confidence a bit...
this is a hobby for me I am not going to fight it, I can sleep on it, but I will do the bench build first (the tower) out of the case just like you did, what a great idea!!!!
Yep that gives me much more confidence that everything is in and right. Don’t rush anything it’s not worth the headache. And CHECK those ENDPLAYS !
As soon as I took the 2 feeding bolts out from the Center support something get released and now I can turn the output shaft with minimum resistance freely by hand....
u missed the steel ring under the 2nd gear return spring thàt rest bétween the àlliumiñum
Not sure I follow you on that one ! The 2nd gear Bellvelle return spring just rides right on the center support from the factory.
Marshall, great video!!!
I would like to know more about beefing up a transmission for heavy-duty hauling.
Like you said in the video, about adding more clutches and such.
I have a 96 diesel with E4OD 4x4 that I pull a 40ft 5th wheel camper, that is close to 20,000 lbs, after 2 years this transmission is getting tired. I noticed in park to drive, it takes a couple moments to get in gear, same with going into reverse.
Wow gotcha ! That’s a lot of weight!
Check out my new videos on E4OD building. It’s a few hours of watch time but insane “Proper”techniques in heavy duty situations to get a trans to last ! Especially the one that explains putting 6 clutches in the Direct and 5 clutches in the forward. With that weight you should probably put High Performance “Racing Style” Clutches in it also.
Money