The wheels are kinda of affordable, but the commercial holders are ridiculously expensive! Way out of most hobbyists! Your home made version is a great solution!
Yes, you're right. The knurling wheels are affordable. The good thing is, it's not that complicated to make your own tool. At least the tool I made. Thank you very much!
Really like your videos not just for the content (which I find very useful and inspiring) but the production of the video and your sense of humor. Keep em coming....
Fascinating. This is the first time I hear about this technique. I was about say that I do not like the single wheel knurling as it exerts too much force on the spindle. This is when I noticed the chips flying and I realized what it really was. It looks very efficient and apparently creates good results. For the mini lathe I now bought a scissors-type device, for the reason above. Had I known of this technique, I would have rethought my purchase. And, of course, kudos for the building technique and skills. Regarding the bandsaw; I can only concur. I bought a cheap one, and then wondered if it was not exaggerated. After a few weeks using it, definitely very useful (Güde MBS 1100).
Thanks for your kind comment. Yes, it's totally different to form knurling which is used by the most people. Cut knurling introduces almost no forces to the machine spindle. It's really cool to see the chips flying during knurling:) The scissor-type knurl tools are of course the better choice over the one wheel form tools but cut knurling is definitely more fun ;) Oh yes, a little bandsaw would be great and would make work a lot easier. I don't know the price of the güde but i found, bandsaws aren't that cheap...
That's a really nice design! I used the fixed double version for a lot of years! Fast, clean, and much less pressure on part and machine. This one gets closer to a shoulder than the commercial units. Thanks for sharing! 👍😎
I just built a copy of your cut knurling tool but not from your drawings, just as near as I could prom this video. I bought exactly the same wheels as yours and they cost me £60 plus a bit of postage. I have only tested it on aluminium and it works well, but I didn't realise just how many shavings come off the work when cut knurling. I really need a blower on the job all the time to get rid of it all. The shaping of the main component was done on my little mill so mine looks just a little different from yours. Many thanks for a good design.
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Nice class! You are a very smart guy! Thanks for your cooperation with us!
You are very talented. With all due respect, it's hard watching you struggle making these beautiful parts. I can't wait to see your work when you acquire a proper lathe and a milling machine.
Nice build. For the straight knurling, the height of the tool is critical to avoid a twist. You can make minor adjustments to the wheel angle, but the height needs to be correct otherwise the kurl will twist depending on the x axis position. Also, you might want to consider a hardened steel thrust washer rather than the brass one as there's a lot of force on it and lots of chips find their way in there and wear it down. A roller bearing is another option. Nice tool though. Flood coolant will get the best knurl finish too btw.
Thanks for your comment and advise. That's very helpful. Didn't thought that the centerheight is so critical. I designed the tool in such way, that it should be on centerheight cause of it's 16mm shank but have to proof that. And yes, I thought about a hardened steel washer but because it's easier, I first went for the brass one. Perhaps I change this someday :) And flood coolant might be the best but also the also the best way to create a real mess on the machine :D
@@WeCanDoThatBetter No worries. I had a job a while back where i had to straight knurl some 8mm dia stainless bars, 150mm long and they needed to be perfectly straight. I got a good education on straight knurls from that job!
I built on of those about 10 years ago. Mine was a quick and dirty job that took all of 20 minutes to make from one piece of scrap 3/4 inch round rod. I work in a food plant where 99 percent of what we cut is stainless of various grades. I'm here to tell you that cut knurler is the ONLY reasonable way to get a decent knurl on stainless. Go for it.
Well done. The Quick product is fantastic, I used to sell it here in New Zealand many years ago. The beauty is it actually cuts the material and not swage it up, which puts a lot of radial force onto the job and in many cases does work so well. I might consider making one for my Myford. Ian langley retired fitter and turner. Cheers.
Fantastic tool ! Knurling is a big problem on small machines even with the scissor type knurling tools as it is easy to run out of cross slide travel but your little knurling tool would eliminate that problem - just need to remember to order the knurling wheels with the sharp edges and not the rounded o chamfered ones !
Thank you! Even with my tool I run out of travel but when you swivel the compound slide a bit, the tool gets a bit further back. In my case that was enough.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter You're very welcome. You can also also email me at "jon" at our website, and I'll send you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and share your videos whenever you want. We have lots of YTers on board :)
Love what you do with simple equipment! You are a fantastic machinist. I would love to see any dimensions you can provide. I know you have commented that you will try to get detailed diagrams later but any guidance on even rough sizing will be much appreciated.
I now added the detailed plans to my patreon page. Material is written in the video. All parts 42crmo4 steel except for the shaft which was mild steel I guess and the brass shim.
Tremendous project. Really impressed with the methods you've used to compensate for only having a mini lathe for machining. Cut knurling is as you suggest one of those little publicised 'black arts'. Difficult to get hold of clear in depth explanations on the subject. What I do see if a similarity to rotary hex and square broaching in as much as the cutting action is produced by by axial offset. You really should seriously consider selling some PDF plans for this device. You have another subscriber👌
Hey thanks for your comment and for subscribing! :) That's what I found too, there is not that much information about cut knurling out there. And that's what draws my interest. Rotary broaching is the next cool thing I want to try and build a tool for. I have the PDF-plan thing in mind ;)
That is a very good implementation of a cut knurler. Congratulations on a fine build, and excellent results. The 20/25mm shank version of the Zeus RF1-231 is quite similar to yours.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I have looked up the Zeus tool. Yes, it looks very similar to mine but no commercial tool can do a cross knurling and a straight knurling with this design as far as I know.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter www.hommel-keller.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/GA_zeus_231_EN.pdf This shows how their version works, top right of sheet (much more complex to build than yours). Also has a lot of useful data on feeds/speeds and adjusting. Overall your implementation does the same, for a lot less money. I am presently making a work alike of the other RF1-231, buying the knurls from H&K. I found them actually affordable (but not inexpensive)
Прикольно! Красиво! Плюсанул. Но можно же сделать все гораздо проще! 14мм стальной квадрат, в нем паз 8мм под накатку, ось стальную каленую вставить и все! Сделал себе пару прямых и две пары 0,8 и 1мм шаг косых накаток. Тоже самое, но все проще в разы и колесики накаток не так сильно изнашиваются. У этой и моих накаток есть существенный недостаток - длинную деталь будет отжимать, надо делать двухколесную накатку с диаметральным расположением и механизм схождения и тогда хоть на шпильках накатывай!
Really cool video. I just found your channel recently and enjoy it. All of us that run these small lathes and mills have a wish list of tools and I would recommend you put a portable bandsaw on your list. I loved my first one so much that now I have two. One is corded and the other is battery. Both are amazing. Mine are Dewalt, but there are others as well.
Thank you very much! Yeah, a bandsaw would be great and make work a lot easier. I just found them a bit pricy but perhaps some day I'll have one. For this project I rather drilled the material away instead of hand sawing but that's not the best solution..
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Your thinking was solid and you got the job done. Those are the most important things, but the first time you squeeze the trigger and cut a big piece of steel that would have left you sweating you will have a smile that comes back again and again.
Thanks for sharing! A very good choice for fast knurling in a non-rigid mini lathe! Got myself a cheap 2 roller "bump" type knurler (which of course is unusable in my 7 x 14"), just to get the 2 hardened roller pairs (straight and 30 deg). I'd guess the knurl with your (and H&K's) method is rather "sheared" than "cut" into the stock? Unfortunately my rollers teeth have a chamfer on them (and would hence have a negative shear/ cutting angle), which brings up my question: -Couldn't it be a positive trait having the teeth on the roller's side ground somewhat concave, thus achieving a slightly positive cutting edge "rake angle" for harder (than aluminium and brass), ferrous alloys? This could pretty easily be done with a toolpost dremel and a ball end diamond burr and the knurl wheel in the mini lathe chuck. With the entire tool angled at a few degrees towards the tailstock, this will also provide some relief angle, as my rollers aren't ground like the H&K's. Ah yes, did you check the knurl's pitch circle dia before cutting the stock dia to be knurled- thus avoiding "double knurling"? Just my two cents - Keep up the good work! DIYSwede
Hi, thanks for your comment! I missed that in the video but will write it in the discription. For the tool shaft I used some 16x16 mild steel bar. All the other steel parts especially the front knurl wheel holder are 42crmo4 tool steel
interesting concept, but as far as labor intensive, you could buy a decent clamp style knurling tool probably cheaper than you can build one of your design. One more thing, knurling is normally a forming tool used to raise the existing surface dimension to increase the dimension of an existing shaft by, ie restoring a press fit etc. where as your design is obviously a cutting tool, obvious by the chips in the machining process you demonstrated.
Thanks for your comment! Yes it was labour intensive to built but that's exactly the tool I want. Off course you can buy everything and the scissor-type knurling tools work fine to. But that's a totally different procedure. One forms the knurl needing high forces and pressure the other cuts the knurl with almost not pressure and with a very fine well formed result. What you described to increase the diameter is at most for improvising.
Beautiful work! A problem I noticed in your processing, namely you use too high revs and when cutting and milling. Try with lower revs and you'll see that you don't get your blue span out anymore. At the 100mm disc mill, the 80-100rpm speed is enough! Only for aluminum or plastic parts use a higher speed in the rest, lower revs and tools will have a longer life! I hope you don't mind, it's just a recommendation! Good health and growth for new projects!!!
You realise that the machining sections of the video are significantly sped up, don't you? Also, the modern mini lathes don't have any gearbox, so you just cannot get a lot of torque at very low speeds. There isn't really any choice but to bring the revs up so you can get them to cut!
A wonderful video! Thank you for time to make this. You used some very interesting techniques! I am curious - why did you run the lathe backward on the second pass of the cross-knurling?
Thank you so much for your appreciation! To answer your question: during the second pass of cross knurling the knurling wheel is leant to the left (-45degree). In this position, it will only cut, when the lathe is running backwards. It's a bit hard to explain. Hope that helped a little bit.. :)
On the forward pass, the tool gets pressed against the holder body. In reverse, you want the tool to pressed against the holder body again. If he didn't reverse direction, it would press against the outer washer and probably unwind the locking screw and fall apart.
I've been looking for something on the topic of cut knurling for a while and not finding much, so thank you for this video. You've got another new subscriber. Would you be open to some constructive feedback? If so, read on... I think your videos are interesting and generally well made. Would you consider adding some verbal descriptions of what you're doing, and of your thought process behind why you're doing it that way? The text notes are good but, for me personally, seeing and hearing at the same time makes it easier to follow along. Thanks again!
Very nice! I have always wanted to rebuild my knurler because I believe side load knurlers put too much stress on the lathe and the scissor types are better (just an opinion). Regardless, this project is pretty sweet. Why is it that your knurls don't overlap as you pass over the knurls repeatedly? Does that have something to do with the diameter of this particular piece matching the diameter of the knurling wheel?
Thanks for your comment! Usually the knurling wheel find it's way into the former cut knurls. It is possible that the knurling doesn't match and the wheel cuts twice as fine in the beginning but usually with a little bit more cutting depth the wheel find it's way and cut an even knurling. It isn't that critical to the diameter that you have to calculate the parts diameter to the spacing of the knurl wheel.
Great machine job i have to do the same i have some deep cut knurls to mount have not had time to make. I have a knurl set but the depth of cut is finer the main reason i got ruffer knurls which are more pronounced.
Wish you'd have described the materials used, disliked the lathe noise, wish you'd described the process a bit with why's and how's and such. Gave it a thumbs up, good work overall for a one man crew. ;)
Hey, thanks for your feedback. I have to add this in the video discription. I used mild steel for the tool shaft and 42crmo4 toolsteel for the other steel parts. If you have further questions let me know. You're in the video I have not much explanations as I thought it's too much to read.
Do you make Drawings for your projekts? or do you just do it? I find it very impressive what you are doing on what seems to be a very small mashine! If you could share some more dimentions it would be amazing! Im planing to diy this wonderfull tool Keep up the great content!!!
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I just made some rudimentary drawings before starting the project. But I'm working on detailed drawings for this tool. It's not done yet, too much things to do parallel :) But when I'm done, I will add it to the discription.
Just watched your build of cut knurling tool, lovely job, one comment, you didn't show how you achieved the +/- 45* angle for indexing lines, did you use a Digi inclinometer / angle gauge on the vertical faces to get exact 45*?
Ich bin wirklich beeindruckt auf was für kreative Ideen du kommst um verschiedenen Teile zu fertigen. Hast du eine Lehre in diese Richtung gemacht, oder hast du dir das alles selbst beigebracht? Ich hätte zwei Projekt Ideen die wirklich sehr nützlich sind.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Ich hätte da an einen Schnellwechselhalter mit Schwalbenschwanzführung, für deine Werkzeuge gedacht. Und was ich persönlich an meiner Drehmaschine habe, und was ich sehr hilfreich finde, ist ein kleiner Teileapperat in den man Spannzangen spannen kann, der anstelle des Werkzeughalters kommt. Diesen Teileapperat kann man auch noch um eine bestimmte Gradzahl drehen das ermöglicht es Löcher in bestimmten Teilungen und in verschiedenen Neigungen zu bohren oder fräsen, und noch viel mehr.
Your videos are really great. Many thanks for that! I have a question: As I understand it, the circumference of the workpiece must be a multiple of the distance between the teeth on the knurling tool, right? Otherwise the grooves on the workpiece would not be so clearly separated from each other at the end. Or am I missing something?
Absolutely great craftsmanship! Wirklich tolle Abreit - gratuliere! Cutting knurls is supposed to create the best results on hard and tough materials like stainless. Could you comment or maybe show in the future how the tool performs in practice, especially with stainless? Does it take a lot of trail and error to get the tool working perfectly? Angles, speed, feed, exact diameter required (multiple of the tooth spacing)? What would you do differently in the future. For example the hardened bearing thrust washer suggested by Lorro Symonds? By the way, what is the material you are using for the head? It looks very nice. A ferrite chrome steel?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter A typical diamond knurl would result in a 1:1 ratio, where the angles of the knurl are the same in each direction. To do a Fibonacci knurl (I had a look and didn't find any examples of one, so perhaps no-one has ever done it before), you'd have the angles of each direction different so that they result in a ratio that matches a sequential pair from the Fibonacci series (F(n) = F(n-1) + F(n-2) ... which gives 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21 ...). For example, an 8:13 ratio would mean that for 8 revolutions of the knurl line in one direction, there would be 13 revolutions in the other direction. This would give a pattern that mimics that found in nature, in things such as palm and fern tree trunks or pineapples (they have a 8:13:21 ratio or 5:8:13 for smaller ones, they have 3 numbers in their ratio because the segments are hexagonal... some pictures here: craftofcoding.wordpress.com/2020/05/28/fibonacci-and-pineapples/). Hmm.... not sure I've simplified anything there :-). Anyway, for a knurl, which results in rhombus shaped ridges, only two sequential numbers would be used, so you'd need to have the angle of each direction result in a number of ridges (for a given length) that matches the pair in the Fibonacci series. Interestingly, as you get further into the series, the ratio between subsequent numbers becomes effectively constant. For pairs from 98:144 onwards, the ratio is effectively set at 0.6180:1 (tending towards 0.618033989... but I don't think anyone will notice a difference of 0.000033989 anywhere). Sorry if I've just confused you more, I'm just sort of thinking out loud a bit. I think something like this might be possible, and would be a cool hidden feature, but certainly not necessary and would be missed by probably 99% of people.
Amazing video! Your content is always exceptional. Did you make plans for this? I would enjoy trying to create this as well if you had dimensions. Thank you for your content!
Nice tool, nice results! Some comments if I may: - not sure if you have contact at the face of that ring as well as on the taper. If so, you're overconstrained, you'll have to choose one (taper or face) cause you can't really have proper contact on both. - take care with those long sleeves near a machine tool BR
Thank you for your comment and feedback! That's right I tried to machine the parts that both parts bear at the bevel and at the face. I machined it by feeling and thought that both surfaces bear in the end. But you're right that might be critical because it's probably overconstrained. Have to think about that one more time. And thanks for your advise regarding my long sleeves. I'll take care
Hello! I really enjoyed this video and feel very inspired to try and make a cut knurling tool myself. I saw that you have a link to the manufacturer of the wheel, but I’m not 100% sure what I am looking at on their site. Can you tell me, is a “cut knurling” wheel itself physically different from a form knurling wheel, or is it just the process of feeding into the work that makes this a “cutting” operation? Also, what is the angle and/or pitch of the knurling wheel used on this project? Thank you so much! Subscribing to your channel for sure!
Hello and thank you for your comment! As you said a cut knurling wheel is different from a form knurling wheel. A cut knurling wheel has to have sharp and ground edges whereas a form knurling wheel has chamferred edges. The wheels I used were 21,5x5mm with a 8mm bore and a pitch (is this the right word?) of 0,8mm. For straight knurling you need a wheel with 30° angled teeth and for angled knurls you need a wheel with 90° straight teeth. Here you can buy it for example: www.hoffmann-group.com/DE/de/hom/Modulare-Zerspanung/R%C3%A4ndelwerkzeuge/R%C3%A4ndelrad-PM-AA/p/290261-21%2C5X5%402F0%2C6?wayIntoCart=PDP&tId=
You should say that it's a copy of the model described in "model engineer" magazine, issues 4543&4545 sept 2016 where the theory of the process is descrtbed
Hi, that's interesting, didn't know that. Is this paper available somewhere in the internet? I'm curious about it. I've heard from that magazine but actually never had one in my hand.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter join a model engineer club in your neighbourhood or take a subsciption to the magazine, a digital subscription gives access to the previous issues.
Hi I just started to make this tool. I’ ve already finished the body, screw and ring. I am struggling a bit with the dimensions of the cutting head. Is the basis a round with a diameter of 27 mm with a 5 mm offset to a diameter of 22 mm? Thanks in advance Cheers Teun
The plans of the cut knurling tool are now available on my patreon page: www.patreon.com/wecandothatbetter
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WOW, YOU HAVE REALLY GOOD SKILLS. Ive been a machinist/ tool room and prototype machinist for over 30 years. You are really good. I enjoy your shows.
I'm humbled. Thank you. I really do appreciate your feedback!
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The wheels are kinda of affordable, but the commercial holders are ridiculously expensive! Way out of most hobbyists! Your home made version is a great solution!
Yes, you're right. The knurling wheels are affordable. The good thing is, it's not that complicated to make your own tool. At least the tool I made. Thank you very much!
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Never seen such a workmanship on a lathe unbelievable
Thank you very much my friend! :) I really do appreciate that
The quality of your work and attention to detail is approaching the orbit of my mechanics and Clickspring, great video.
Thank you Sir! I'm humbled!
Il
Great tooling utilization. Nice outcome. Thanks for taking us along and take care!
Thank you very much my friend! Take care as well
Very cool. Awesome results. Beautiful knurling. I love mini lathe projects like this. It shows that even entry level tools can get great results.
Thank you very much for your comment! Yes with some patience you can get quite good results.
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Very creative using limited tooling!
Thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Thank you my friend! Yes, it takes a lot more time, but in the end it works anyway with a little bit of improvisation :)
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Really like your videos not just for the content (which I find very useful and inspiring) but the production of the video and your sense of humor.
Keep em coming....
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Fascinating. This is the first time I hear about this technique.
I was about say that I do not like the single wheel knurling as it exerts too much force on the spindle.
This is when I noticed the chips flying and I realized what it really was.
It looks very efficient and apparently creates good results.
For the mini lathe I now bought a scissors-type device, for the reason above.
Had I known of this technique, I would have rethought my purchase.
And, of course, kudos for the building technique and skills.
Regarding the bandsaw; I can only concur. I bought a cheap one, and then wondered if it was not exaggerated. After a few weeks using it, definitely very useful (Güde MBS 1100).
Thanks for your kind comment. Yes, it's totally different to form knurling which is used by the most people. Cut knurling introduces almost no forces to the machine spindle. It's really cool to see the chips flying during knurling:) The scissor-type knurl tools are of course the better choice over the one wheel form tools but cut knurling is definitely more fun ;)
Oh yes, a little bandsaw would be great and would make work a lot easier. I don't know the price of the güde but i found, bandsaws aren't that cheap...
I think you can get the 1100 model from Güde or Scheppach around 200 € if you pick the right time. Got mine from Bauhaus in Switzerland
You are a certified tool maker ! Well done... and I hope someone sponsors you with a band saw or even a mill.
Wow just wow, not only a pleasure to watch but so educational at the same time, I will also make one of these, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your comment and compliment!
That's a really nice design! I used the fixed double version for a lot of years! Fast, clean, and much less pressure on part and machine. This one gets closer to a shoulder than the commercial units. Thanks for sharing! 👍😎
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that :)
It's amazing to see what you can do with a mini lathe! Great job!
Thank you very much!
Your techniques amaze and frighten me. Good job.
Thanks!
Super wie du die verschiedenen Fräsoperationen und Aufspannungen auf der Drehbank gemacht hast.
Dankeschön:) Ja, da musste ich es etwas rumüberlegen, wie ich das hinkriege. Hat zum Glück gut geklappt.
I just built a copy of your cut knurling tool but not from your drawings, just as near as I could prom this video. I bought exactly the same wheels as yours and they cost me £60 plus a bit of postage. I have only tested it on aluminium and it works well, but I didn't realise just how many shavings come off the work when cut knurling. I really need a blower on the job all the time to get rid of it all. The shaping of the main component was done on my little mill so mine looks just a little different from yours. Many thanks for a good design.
Nice class! You are a very smart guy! Thanks for your cooperation with us!
Thank you very much!
When you give thumbs up before watch.
Quality content, keep it up 🦾
Haha, thank you so much! I really do appreciate that, thanks
You are very talented.
With all due respect, it's hard watching you struggle making these beautiful parts.
I can't wait to see your work when you acquire a proper lathe and a milling machine.
haha, thank you very much! Yes, with proper tooling it would be easier :)
Nice build. For the straight knurling, the height of the tool is critical to avoid a twist. You can make minor adjustments to the wheel angle, but the height needs to be correct otherwise the kurl will twist depending on the x axis position. Also, you might want to consider a hardened steel thrust washer rather than the brass one as there's a lot of force on it and lots of chips find their way in there and wear it down. A roller bearing is another option. Nice tool though. Flood coolant will get the best knurl finish too btw.
Thanks for your comment and advise. That's very helpful. Didn't thought that the centerheight is so critical. I designed the tool in such way, that it should be on centerheight cause of it's 16mm shank but have to proof that. And yes, I thought about a hardened steel washer but because it's easier, I first went for the brass one. Perhaps I change this someday :) And flood coolant might be the best but also the also the best way to create a real mess on the machine :D
@@WeCanDoThatBetter No worries. I had a job a while back where i had to straight knurl some 8mm dia stainless bars, 150mm long and they needed to be perfectly straight. I got a good education on straight knurls from that job!
You are a very talented person. Thanks for sharing with us.
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
I built on of those about 10 years ago. Mine was a quick and dirty job that took all of 20 minutes to make from one piece of scrap 3/4 inch round rod. I work in a food plant where 99 percent of what we cut is stainless of various grades. I'm here to tell you that cut knurler is the ONLY reasonable way to get a decent knurl on stainless. Go for it.
Haven't tried in steel yet.
Watching from Qatar
PHILIPPINES machinist
Awesome
Love the Vlog
Thank you very much! Greetings
I will watch this over & over!! You are obviously a very skilled metal worker & I would like to see a video on file skills, you have a deft hand....
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that! :)
Well done. The Quick product is fantastic, I used to sell it here in New Zealand many years ago. The beauty is it actually cuts the material and not swage it up, which puts a lot of radial force onto the job and in many cases does work so well. I might consider making one for my Myford. Ian langley retired fitter and turner. Cheers.
Thank you! Yes, it's really cool to see the chips flying away as the knurl gets cut. Cool to hear, you sold the quick products!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter The quick Knurl product was one of those products that once demonstrated the customer purchased so they really sold themselves.
JbLa mucha
Fantastic tool !
Knurling is a big problem on small machines even with the scissor type knurling tools as it is easy to run out of cross slide travel but your little knurling tool would eliminate that problem - just need to remember to order the knurling wheels with the sharp edges and not the rounded o chamfered ones !
Thank you! Even with my tool I run out of travel but when you swivel the compound slide a bit, the tool gets a bit further back. In my case that was enough.
Not totally true. My simpler cut knurler does work with my chamfer-edged knurling wheels.
@@kencroft7933
Good for you 😀
Excellent craftsmanship and design.
Thank you very much!
You are doing it right! keep going! thanks for the videos.
Thank you very much!
Beautiful work. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Hey cool, thank you! Happy to hear, you shared it. I really do appreciate that :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter You're very welcome. You can also also email me at "jon" at our website, and I'll send you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and share your videos whenever you want. We have lots of YTers on board :)
Wow magnificent realization! I immediately sign up for your channel
Hey thank you very much! I really do appreciate that. Welcome :)
Your work keeps me very entertained and impressed!
Thank you! I'm really happy to hear that!
It's awesome the way you do so much more than just turn round parts. I like the vice mounted flat on the cross slide 👍
Thanks!
Tell us more about setting the angle. 2:18
Just goes to prove "Necessity is the mother of invention", if all you have is a lathe you make it work.
Thanks, yes it will work anyway :)
🔥🔥really good video 👍
Thanks a lot!
Ich verneige mich vor einem absolutem Könner. Was du so mit deiner Drehe machst ist Drehen in seiner Vollendung.
Vielen Dank für deine freundlichen Worte! Freut mich sehr.
Really nice job 👏
Thanks!
Love what you do with simple equipment! You are a fantastic machinist. I would love to see any dimensions you can provide. I know you have commented that you will try to get detailed diagrams later but any guidance on even rough sizing will be much appreciated.
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! I now added the plans to my patreon page if you are interested.
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I have to say, this is very good
Thank you very much!
Awesome work! Now I also have a desire to build that tool. 😎
Thank you! You'll be happy to have one. It's really fun to use it. And good cut knurls are extremely satisfying :)
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Could you add information in the descriptions wich material you use for the parts?
Im pretty impressed on what you do!
I now added the detailed plans to my patreon page. Material is written in the video. All parts 42crmo4 steel except for the shaft which was mild steel I guess and the brass shim.
Geezer machinist here. Nice work.
Thank you very much! :)
Very nice work !
Thank you!
Браво! 👍колоссальная работа, я а даже смотреть заебался, а тут столько фрезеровки на токарном 😁 мастер! Моё почтение 💪💪💪🔥
большое спасибо!
Tremendous project. Really impressed with the methods you've used to compensate for only having a mini lathe for machining.
Cut knurling is as you suggest one of those little publicised 'black arts'. Difficult to get hold of clear in depth explanations on the subject. What I do see if a similarity to rotary hex and square broaching in as much as the cutting action is produced by by axial offset. You really should seriously consider selling some PDF plans for this device. You have another subscriber👌
Hey thanks for your comment and for subscribing! :) That's what I found too, there is not that much information about cut knurling out there. And that's what draws my interest. Rotary broaching is the next cool thing I want to try and build a tool for. I have the PDF-plan thing in mind ;)
Nice Work 👍
Thank you very much!
great job, I'm delighted!
You have amazing talent.
Thank you very much!
That is a very good implementation of a cut knurler. Congratulations on a fine build, and excellent results. The 20/25mm shank version of the Zeus RF1-231 is quite similar to yours.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I have looked up the Zeus tool. Yes, it looks very similar to mine but no commercial tool can do a cross knurling and a straight knurling with this design as far as I know.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter www.hommel-keller.de/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/GA_zeus_231_EN.pdf This shows how their version works, top right of sheet (much more complex to build than yours). Also has a lot of useful data on feeds/speeds and adjusting. Overall your implementation does the same, for a lot less money. I am presently making a work alike of the other RF1-231, buying the knurls from H&K. I found them actually affordable (but not inexpensive)
Прикольно! Красиво! Плюсанул. Но можно же сделать все гораздо проще! 14мм стальной квадрат, в нем паз 8мм под накатку, ось стальную каленую вставить и все! Сделал себе пару прямых и две пары 0,8 и 1мм шаг косых накаток. Тоже самое, но все проще в разы и колесики накаток не так сильно изнашиваются.
У этой и моих накаток есть существенный недостаток - длинную деталь будет отжимать, надо делать двухколесную накатку с диаметральным расположением и механизм схождения и тогда хоть на шпильках накатывай!
Good job 👍
Thank you very much!
Great job, thanks from
Poland
Thanks for your comment! Greetings
Really cool video. I just found your channel recently and enjoy it. All of us that run these small lathes and mills have a wish list of tools and I would recommend you put a portable bandsaw on your list. I loved my first one so much that now I have two. One is corded and the other is battery. Both are amazing. Mine are Dewalt, but there are others as well.
Thank you very much! Yeah, a bandsaw would be great and make work a lot easier. I just found them a bit pricy but perhaps some day I'll have one. For this project I rather drilled the material away instead of hand sawing but that's not the best solution..
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Your thinking was solid and you got the job done. Those are the most important things, but the first time you squeeze the trigger and cut a big piece of steel that would have left you sweating you will have a smile that comes back again and again.
Nice work
Thank you very much!
Super Job 👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing! A very good choice for fast knurling in a non-rigid mini lathe! Got myself a cheap 2 roller "bump" type knurler (which of course is unusable in my 7 x 14"), just to get the 2 hardened roller pairs (straight and 30 deg). I'd guess the knurl with your (and H&K's) method is rather "sheared" than "cut" into the stock? Unfortunately my rollers teeth have a chamfer on them (and would hence have a negative shear/ cutting angle), which brings up my question: -Couldn't it be a positive trait having the teeth on the roller's side ground somewhat concave, thus achieving a slightly positive cutting edge "rake angle" for harder (than aluminium and brass), ferrous alloys? This could pretty easily be done with a toolpost dremel and a ball end diamond burr and the knurl wheel in the mini lathe chuck. With the entire tool angled at a few degrees towards the tailstock, this will also provide some relief angle, as my rollers aren't ground like the H&K's.
Ah yes, did you check the knurl's pitch circle dia before cutting the stock dia to be knurled- thus avoiding "double knurling"?
Just my two cents - Keep up the good work! DIYSwede
Super ! Mais il faut commander une fraiseuse au Père Noël !!! LOL !!!
Great ! But you have to order a milling machine from Santa Claus !!! LOL !!!
Really super work skills !!
That is absolutely amazing, great job and thank you for sharing your knowledge and skill.
Thank you very much!
Very very good job
Thank you very much!
so lovely mate
Thanks!
Nice work.
Thank you
What type of steel is being used for each of the parts? I am assuming some type of tool steel.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I missed that in the video but will write it in the discription. For the tool shaft I used some 16x16 mild steel bar. All the other steel parts especially the front knurl wheel holder are 42crmo4 tool steel
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Awesome! thanks for your response
interesting concept, but as far as labor intensive, you could buy a decent clamp style knurling tool probably cheaper than you can build one of your design. One more thing, knurling is normally a forming tool used to raise the existing surface dimension to increase the dimension of an existing shaft by, ie restoring a press fit etc. where as your design is obviously a cutting tool, obvious by the chips in the machining process you demonstrated.
Thanks for your comment! Yes it was labour intensive to built but that's exactly the tool I want. Off course you can buy everything and the scissor-type knurling tools work fine to. But that's a totally different procedure. One forms the knurl needing high forces and pressure the other cuts the knurl with almost not pressure and with a very fine well formed result. What you described to increase the diameter is at most for improvising.
Excellant point!
Nice job ! Well done,
Thank you!
Good job👌🏻
Thanks!
Beautiful work! A problem I noticed in your processing, namely you use too high revs and when cutting and milling. Try with lower revs and you'll see that you don't get your blue span out anymore. At the 100mm disc mill, the 80-100rpm speed is enough! Only for aluminum or plastic parts use a higher speed in the rest, lower revs and tools will have a longer life!
I hope you don't mind, it's just a recommendation!
Good health and growth for new projects!!!
You realise that the machining sections of the video are significantly sped up, don't you? Also, the modern mini lathes don't have any gearbox, so you just cannot get a lot of torque at very low speeds. There isn't really any choice but to bring the revs up so you can get them to cut!
A wonderful video! Thank you for time to make this. You used some very interesting techniques! I am curious - why did you run the lathe backward on the second pass of the cross-knurling?
Thank you so much for your appreciation! To answer your question: during the second pass of cross knurling the knurling wheel is leant to the left (-45degree). In this position, it will only cut, when the lathe is running backwards. It's a bit hard to explain. Hope that helped a little bit.. :)
👍👍👍
On the forward pass, the tool gets pressed against the holder body. In reverse, you want the tool to pressed against the holder body again. If he didn't reverse direction, it would press against the outer washer and probably unwind the locking screw and fall apart.
you should tilt the knurl in a tool post so, that you have 1-1.5 degree of back angle. the knurl must cut only with it's front edge.
Yes, I actually did that.
I would love to be able to buy printed plans of many of the things you make, but especially this one
The plans are now available on my Patreon page: www.patreon.com/wecandothatbetter
I've been looking for something on the topic of cut knurling for a while and not finding much, so thank you for this video. You've got another new subscriber.
Would you be open to some constructive feedback? If so, read on...
I think your videos are interesting and generally well made. Would you consider adding some verbal descriptions of what you're doing, and of your thought process behind why you're doing it that way? The text notes are good but, for me personally, seeing and hearing at the same time makes it easier to follow along.
Thanks again!
что за пластины по каленому? молодец!
Hey, who says you can’t do Everything on a Lathe! Nice Work 👍
haha, thank you :) Almost everything ;)
Very nice!
I have always wanted to rebuild my knurler because I believe side load knurlers put too much stress on the lathe and the scissor types are better (just an opinion). Regardless, this project is pretty sweet.
Why is it that your knurls don't overlap as you pass over the knurls repeatedly? Does that have something to do with the diameter of this particular piece matching the diameter of the knurling wheel?
Thanks for your comment! Usually the knurling wheel find it's way into the former cut knurls. It is possible that the knurling doesn't match and the wheel cuts twice as fine in the beginning but usually with a little bit more cutting depth the wheel find it's way and cut an even knurling. It isn't that critical to the diameter that you have to calculate the parts diameter to the spacing of the knurl wheel.
Fantastic!
Thank you!
cutting the off center peace with a carbide insert ahows some balls
Haha yes :D It actually worked great. These are iscar inserts, I think I never chipped one until now.
6:09 watch out for angry turkeys breaking into the shop space.
Haha :D Do they sound similar? I'm not fimiliar with turkeys :)
Nice trman..good job mate
Thanks!
Do you sell prints or drawings for the items you make?
The plans are now available on my Patreon page: www.patreon.com/wecandothatbetter
Great machine job i have to do the same i have some deep cut knurls to mount have not had time to make. I have a knurl set but the depth of cut is finer the main reason i got ruffer knurls which are more pronounced.
Thank you! Knurling is a not that easy. One has to try and practice a bit
Wish you'd have described the materials used, disliked the lathe noise, wish you'd described the process a bit with why's and how's and such. Gave it a thumbs up, good work overall for a one man crew. ;)
Hey, thanks for your feedback. I have to add this in the video discription. I used mild steel for the tool shaft and 42crmo4 toolsteel for the other steel parts. If you have further questions let me know. You're in the video I have not much explanations as I thought it's too much to read.
Do you make Drawings for your projekts? or do you just do it?
I find it very impressive what you are doing on what seems to be a very small mashine!
If you could share some more dimentions it would be amazing! Im planing to diy this wonderfull tool
Keep up the great content!!!
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I just made some rudimentary drawings before starting the project. But I'm working on detailed drawings for this tool. It's not done yet, too much things to do parallel :) But when I'm done, I will add it to the discription.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter sounds awesome! I understand the time problem... i have to much projects in parallel too.
still looking forward to your drawings!
Just watched your build of cut knurling tool, lovely job, one comment, you didn't show how you achieved the +/- 45* angle for indexing lines, did you use a Digi inclinometer / angle gauge on the vertical faces to get exact 45*?
Ich bin wirklich beeindruckt auf was für kreative Ideen du kommst um verschiedenen Teile zu fertigen.
Hast du eine Lehre in diese Richtung gemacht, oder hast du dir das alles selbst beigebracht?
Ich hätte zwei Projekt Ideen die wirklich sehr nützlich sind.
Hey, vielen Dank! Freut mich sehr. Nein, eine Lehre in der Richtung habe ich bis jetzt nicht gemacht. Welche Projekte sind es denn? :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Ich hätte da an einen Schnellwechselhalter mit Schwalbenschwanzführung, für deine Werkzeuge gedacht. Und was ich persönlich an meiner Drehmaschine habe, und was ich sehr hilfreich finde, ist ein kleiner Teileapperat in den man Spannzangen spannen kann, der anstelle des Werkzeughalters kommt. Diesen Teileapperat kann man auch noch um eine bestimmte Gradzahl drehen das ermöglicht es Löcher in bestimmten Teilungen und in verschiedenen Neigungen zu bohren oder fräsen, und noch viel mehr.
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Your videos are really great. Many thanks for that! I have a question: As I understand it, the circumference of the workpiece must be a multiple of the distance between the teeth on the knurling tool, right? Otherwise the grooves on the workpiece would not be so clearly separated from each other at the end. Or am I missing something?
Absolutely great craftsmanship! Wirklich tolle Abreit - gratuliere! Cutting knurls is supposed to create the best results on hard and tough materials like stainless. Could you comment or maybe show in the future how the tool performs in practice, especially with stainless? Does it take a lot of trail and error to get the tool working perfectly? Angles, speed, feed, exact diameter required (multiple of the tooth spacing)?
What would you do differently in the future. For example the hardened bearing thrust washer suggested by Lorro Symonds?
By the way, what is the material you are using for the head? It looks very nice. A ferrite chrome steel?
Felicidades muy bonita herramienta, un saludo.😃
Great video on a worthwhile engineering exercise. How many hours did you spend making it?
Thank you very much! I haven't count the hours I spent on this tool but it was over 3 weeks and I guess 30 h perhaps. But really can't tell exactly
Very cool tool. I wonder if you could set the angles to get a Fibonacci knurl? Maybe a 3:5 or 5:8 ratio.
Hi and thanks for your comment! What do you mean with fibonacci knurl? Sounds interesting but I have no clue, what that is :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
A typical diamond knurl would result in a 1:1 ratio, where the angles of the knurl are the same in each direction.
To do a Fibonacci knurl (I had a look and didn't find any examples of one, so perhaps no-one has ever done it before), you'd have the angles of each direction different so that they result in a ratio that matches a sequential pair from the Fibonacci series (F(n) = F(n-1) + F(n-2) ... which gives 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21 ...).
For example, an 8:13 ratio would mean that for 8 revolutions of the knurl line in one direction, there would be 13 revolutions in the other direction. This would give a pattern that mimics that found in nature, in things such as palm and fern tree trunks or pineapples (they have a 8:13:21 ratio or 5:8:13 for smaller ones, they have 3 numbers in their ratio because the segments are hexagonal... some pictures here: craftofcoding.wordpress.com/2020/05/28/fibonacci-and-pineapples/).
Hmm.... not sure I've simplified anything there :-).
Anyway, for a knurl, which results in rhombus shaped ridges, only two sequential numbers would be used, so you'd need to have the angle of each direction result in a number of ridges (for a given length) that matches the pair in the Fibonacci series. Interestingly, as you get further into the series, the ratio between subsequent numbers becomes effectively constant. For pairs from 98:144 onwards, the ratio is effectively set at 0.6180:1 (tending towards 0.618033989... but I don't think anyone will notice a difference of 0.000033989 anywhere).
Sorry if I've just confused you more, I'm just sort of thinking out loud a bit. I think something like this might be possible, and would be a cool hidden feature, but certainly not necessary and would be missed by probably 99% of people.
Amazing video! Your content is always exceptional. Did you make plans for this? I would enjoy trying to create this as well if you had dimensions. Thank you for your content!
Thank you very much for your kind comment! I really do appreciate that! I began to make plans but haven't finished them yet...
what state or country is this man in??
Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome. Thanks:)
Hallo, super Arbeit 👍👍👍 , hast du eine Zeichnung von dem Teil?
Hallo und vielen Dank! :) Einen Zeichnungssatz für das Rändelfräswerkzeug ist auf meiner Patreo-Seite zu finden.
Is your lathe strong enough to show 3xample of 17-4 stainless?
Never tried that :)
Nice tool, nice results!
Some comments if I may:
- not sure if you have contact at the face of that ring as well as on the taper. If so, you're overconstrained, you'll have to choose one (taper or face) cause you can't really have proper contact on both.
- take care with those long sleeves near a machine tool
BR
Thank you for your comment and feedback! That's right I tried to machine the parts that both parts bear at the bevel and at the face. I machined it by feeling and thought that both surfaces bear in the end. But you're right that might be critical because it's probably overconstrained. Have to think about that one more time. And thanks for your advise regarding my long sleeves. I'll take care
Hello! I really enjoyed this video and feel very inspired to try and make a cut knurling tool myself. I saw that you have a link to the manufacturer of the wheel, but I’m not 100% sure what I am looking at on their site. Can you tell me, is a “cut knurling” wheel itself physically different from a form knurling wheel, or is it just the process of feeding into the work that makes this a “cutting” operation? Also, what is the angle and/or pitch of the knurling wheel used on this project? Thank you so much! Subscribing to your channel for sure!
Hello and thank you for your comment! As you said a cut knurling wheel is different from a form knurling wheel. A cut knurling wheel has to have sharp and ground edges whereas a form knurling wheel has chamferred edges. The wheels I used were 21,5x5mm with a 8mm bore and a pitch (is this the right word?) of 0,8mm. For straight knurling you need a wheel with 30° angled teeth and for angled knurls you need a wheel with 90° straight teeth. Here you can buy it for example: www.hoffmann-group.com/DE/de/hom/Modulare-Zerspanung/R%C3%A4ndelwerkzeuge/R%C3%A4ndelrad-PM-AA/p/290261-21%2C5X5%402F0%2C6?wayIntoCart=PDP&tId=
You should say that it's a copy of the model described in "model engineer" magazine, issues 4543&4545 sept 2016 where the theory of the process is descrtbed
Hi, that's interesting, didn't know that. Is this paper available somewhere in the internet? I'm curious about it. I've heard from that magazine but actually never had one in my hand.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter
join a model engineer club in your neighbourhood or take a subsciption to the magazine, a digital subscription gives access to the previous issues.
Hi I just started to make this tool. I’ ve already finished the body, screw and ring. I am struggling a bit with the dimensions of the cutting head. Is the basis a round with a diameter of 27 mm with a 5 mm offset to a diameter of 22 mm?
Thanks in advance
Cheers
Teun