😍 LiTime Mini 100 Amp Hour, amzn.to/3P5I1Zl & all SWI POWER INVERTERS s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDbHZlX *EBAY source for SWI-power* ebay.us/jL1FKT *Join, Follow, Support* ko-fi.com/john4kiera OR www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL & Power Queen Top Grade LiFePO4 amzn.to/3N0RzlJ , REDODO Battery source ebay.us/5xrEWg Total DIY OFF GRID KIT parts amzn.to/42cdjBX
@john Daniel I just purchased 2 of the redodo Mini 100ah batteries. I'm new to the lithium world. So setting my solar charge controller will protect my batteries from over charging ? I just want to make sure I don't screw up my batteries. Thank you.
@@mikesterling9322 You can never screw them up charging lower voltage. They do not have a memory like older rechargeables. With a pouch cell, thats in them, you can swell the cells going to 100% often, so set your charge to 14.3 cut off, charge recovery at 13.2 and no float setting is needed on LiFePO4.
@Јоhn Daniel thank you so much. My charge controller is a basic Renogy so I don't think I can set the max charge voltage but if I set it at the AGM setting that should work correct? Thanks in advance, I appreciate your channel and knowing. 👍
@@mikesterling9322 Yes, there is also GEL setting, but which ever puts you closer to Controller Shut off and 14.30 volts max, 14.10 is OK too if that is their GEL setting.
Great videos. Very helpful to me. Many thanks to you & Keira. I recently got a SWI-power 2000w inverter for my backup power station. Battery & BMS items coming soon.
Using pouch cells, you have to stop charge yourself. They did not change the BMS to be for Pouch cells. So using AGM setting, most solar controllers stop at 14.20 to 14.40, usually 14.35. Waiting on the BMS to do the charge control will ruin pouch cells. None of them can last with the included BMS in the case. It is for LiFePO4 Prismatic. Or LiFePO4 Cylindrical. Pouch cells can actually outlast those, but die fast when charged the same.
She did a great job making that jacket. I know it was a lot of work. And as far as the creeps go, they need to all go away, since they truly aren't needed.
If you start needing really high capacity from your inverter or your battery storage solution, it's almost always smarter to leave 12v behind and move up to 48v solutions. The "mini" batteries are using pouch cells, but they are still LiFePO4 chemistry, so their charge and discharge curves would be very similar. Any observed differences would boil down the BMS they used and how that was configured.
I put that manufacturers data link in the video, have to write it out on here later. But it explained why the charge absorption is odd with pouch cells compared to prismatic. Problem with them is they do use identical BMS in them, and you may want 100 charge in them, but avoid it. 90 to 95% is already hard on them. As for 12 volt, I pull over 11,000 watts when needed without issues. Chose not to be a fool and spend 400% more to run a electric drier or stove, And if one battery fails in my 32 I'm pissy but not crippled however is one battery of 32 fails in a 48v I have lost 1/4 my entire system. So, the hot shot dealers say your hillbilly, stupid, and archaic to use 12 volt, they have hyped higher volts till the cows come home while making bank on it, but if you loose 1/4 your system ever you may need a generator running on gas to turn the lights on for those cows headed home. I do not like risk, love redundancy and am willing to save 30% on inverters, lighting, basic auto/marine rated appliances using 12 volt off the shelf everywhere than depend on a dem dare sopfistucated higher volt dealers cashing my checks till I'm broke buying that " available only here" speshulized stuff. 🤗
Thanks. again John & Keira, for another great video. FYI, you may want to mention that Li Time offers an 8% OFF Military & Veterans discount on Official Store on all items. This discount is available to all U.S. veterans and active-duty service members. Please also mention if other battery and related equipment mfgs off these discounts as well. 😇
Thank you! I started her knitting at age 10 and she finally decided to get serious at age 17. When I got busted up the Folks have sent her $$ to get her supplies up, knitting and garden things and she's selling produce to keep it going. Great results.
Unless optical illusion due to placement and camera angle, the 4 -100 amp hours seem like they would take up a lot less space than 2- 200 amp hour batteries for the same 400 amp hours. What is/would be the difference in performance between the 4- 100s and 2-200s ?
The 200ah Power Queen is same length but 1" wider than the Mini's, and in height the 4 mini's are 1/2" taller than the PQ. If your wanting higher capacity for much less real space then the mini is perfect for that. They make a 400AH in a 8D case like the Power Queen, but none have over a 250 amp draw capable BMS, with 4 of the mini you have 400 amp draw capable. Excellent for a RV with 3000 to 3500 watt inverter.
Great stuff, thanks John and Keira. One question I'd have is: how much power might be wasted through heat in those wires? You mentioned they're getting hot, which indicates to me that those batteries may actually be pushing a substantial amount more current through the wires than is detected by your clamp meter. I would personally bite the bullet and get some 4/0 AWG cables, not because they're at all necessary per se, but because you'll get the most accurate reading of battery power output. Just a thought. Otherwise though, I love your "real life" torture testing methods, and respect the hell out of your dedication to the truth. Thanks again!
We got a 20 degree temp rise, about 20 amps extra wasted so I added a extra set of cables to it. No more heat. Single 4/0 is not only very expensive, it is hard to get. Many sources are running out and lots of cable sources are out of basic materials or have upped their prices 50%.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Fair enough man. I've experienced the rise in copper prices firsthand as well, it's a real mess. I'm at the point now where I can't justify anything bigger than 0 AWG for these mini power stations I build. Every watt is precious, but so is every dollar lol. I just try to make the cables as short as I can possibly manage, chop the excess, and terminate it myself for future projects. That's one reason I love building batteries from raw prismatic cells, they always include busbars! Max efficiency for minimum cost.
hi thanks for you videos, but now im little bit confused :D if you put 4pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel. and the rating for one battery say 100amp max output. Is the total allowed output 400amp or is it still 100amp? those cables and connections are so thin. I dont know what lifePO4 to buy to be able to run a SWi 3000watt inverter for food cooking. it should be able to easy run an hour of 2200w induction plate. 12v. +/- 183amps. +roof ac 300-600w etc.
Depends on the Roof AC unit actual rating of start up amps actually. But using the buss bars you should be able to run the full 400 amps the 4 battery design is capable of if needed. You can get 1.5" wide 3/16 thick copper bar in such a connection and be good for 440 amps total. The full amp pull on the inverter would be 3000 watts divided by 12.8 volts ( 234.4 amps ) plus 10% for conversion efficiency ( 258 amps ) total. A DC load, if thats your AC unit, with that of 600 watts is same math minus the conversion efficiency 600 watts ( 50 amps ) so your total load is under 300 amps. You can use up to 4 foot of 1/0 cables on the inverter and 6 awg up to 9 feet on the air conditioner DC load without a issue. Go to the next larger sizes if your distance is longer to prevent drop and resistance. As for a battery choice, get 2 of the 230 AH ones with 1/0 jumper welding grade cables as shown in my most recent video. Those batteries are on a big sale amzn.to/4dnOQz7
Yes sad to say. They ( 12 branded sales teams, shops within a single underwriter, but all basically from one import union group) used to be sourcing from different assemblers, different cells makers, different BMS brands and even some different cases. Quality was based on each teams picks of assembly and sourcing. But now it's looking like in China there are numerous factories failing, world economy related and these brands that are mostly all from the same major importer shipping union and their teams sourced from numerous suppliers now they are choked back in source availability, now have joined each other in using same dwindling suppliers and like I showed in a video months back I knew that this would happen due to the China and later everyone collapse that is coming.
If you want better draw/charge pull one side positive and the other ground. 2/0 should be enough just use high strand welding cables. It’ll take that load no problems. Love the videos. Does the copper pipe you flattened work better for jumpers than actual cable?
The copper tube is better since it is lower total resistance. As for opposite ended pulling, that is excellent and better on Lead Acid, but the BMS in a LiFePO4 is so sensitive I wired it like seen to make sure they read each pull more equal.
Hey John! I hope you’re feeling a lot better! I have been watching all of your videos on Batteries and I want to make the right decision on a purchase. I have 200 watts of HQSTsolar and 2000 watt ERAYAK inverter based on your recommendation. But I’m confused on the batteries! Just so many choices! Help when you get a chance. Thanks in advance Herman
Double those solar panels and right now, for both ability and financial reasons get the Donjin 100ah x 4 for dirt cheap. amzn.to/3X9lW03 Thats over $450 less for 400 Amp Hour than a single 300ah battery from anyone. Use simple 2 awg cables to connect all 4, and seriously, get no less than 2 more of them solar panels, better to have 6 of them running on 2 - cheap 30 amp Bouge amzn.to/3ywoMlq $44 lifepo4 controllers actually. Then you can actually survive what the lunatics running the system will do to us all. Right now, their solar panels are cheap, but some nut in Washington named Joe imposed the solar tariffs of 100% to go into effect in June. 4 pack, amzn.to/3yoMaB4 So DO NOT WAIT!
Look at that just what I wanted to see.. I’ve already ordered the li time batteries but I might actually order 2 mini’s instead. Mainly for the weight saving. I’ll be sure to use ur link.. have you tested the wind turbines yet?
Yes, we have 3 wind turbines to install, pipe bases are done, but not risking shoulder yet to hoist them up. They tested full ability, just been short to buy so much materials and at some time build on house for 6+ here. I'd say the Mini is a good battery, no lesser then similar able batteries. Just lighter and easier to handle.
I think building your own battery is the way to go. I just wish batteries was not so expensive. Im waiting on some 280 amp hour eve cells and a 300 amp daly bms to put together at the moment. Id love to buy prebuilt batterues but im afraid they are built with b grade cells that may or may not last
Even though I like the Power Queen, tough, solid, sourced well, I would not promise you 10 years, likely 7.5 is about right. The metal cased 400ah Vatrer amzn.to/42yfGOi is about the only one in all these built that may make it 10+ years. It is made 100% by Image Energy a Japanese owned company, using ELB Energy Group cells, has real deal Motive Power cells in it. Other Vatrer batteries are OK, sourced elsewhere. But not that one. I wish I would have bought 6 of them for my whole system when I built it, but Panasonic controlled them until this year and cost was WAY HIGH. Now that I am broke, they got them for cheap.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 alot of people talk crap about nissan leaf cells for batteries but I worked several years at the nissan battery plant building the cells that the pack is made from and if you can get ahold of the cells before they are wore out they are better than the lifepo4 cells. Maybe a little more dangerous if you abuse them but definitely the best batteries out there for long life and staying balanced
John could you maybe answer a question for me? i bought 6 Li Time 24v 100amp batteries Do you have any idea why they say i can only hook 4 in parrallel? thanks for any info
Because they seem to have no clue in China what a BUSS BAR is. The basic is, the terminals on the battery is what they base it on. They expect you to jump cable from one battery to another, creating a challenge for the terminal and the BMS. They fail to understand Wire gauge based Buss usage. So, for yours, you can easily using 6 awg in equal lengths ( under 7 feet long/away ) 4 awg over 7 feet, and a buss bar. Then if you want to add more, run them the same. Pos/Neg cables same identical length, and buss bar that can handle your solar input, and battery output with at least a 5/16" lug for a 3000 to 4000w inverter. If you want to be safe, add a 80 amp breaker on each battery. Doing this is auto balancing, load is in the buss bars, and no load is in grouped terminals or unequal drawn BMS.
Just use ( EXAMPLE ) for 6 batteries, make 12 ( 6 black/6 red ) cables in 6 awg at 6 foot long, connect them all up from each battery to a single pair of heavy buss bars ( black/red ). I just make my own, none of the products online make one for 500+ amps. You'd need 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 6" ebay.us/dn3Un8 twice and some stand off isolators ebay.us/lm4Y5I and some, (12) 1/4" stainless and one pair of (2) 5/16 x 1" nut/bolt sets.
Kiera, I'm sorry you got a creep following you. Unfortunately there is little you can do ..... Creeps gonna creep! What you DO have control over is how You react! Stay strong, and know that the Creep to Normal people ratio is extremely low! Got to say that "jumper" looks really good. The number of people willing and able to create something like that is not a large number! Definitely a bit more than "Knit one pearl one"!
Call a local plumbing company, tell them you want some 3/4" type L soft copper left overs, they will sell it to you for about $6 a foot or less. I will be showing soon how to make it into a buss with embedded studs that can handle over 450 amps. The 1/2" can just hit the 300 amp ability, but the 3/4 soft type L can hit 440 amps per foot max. I have some 1" type K that is over 800 amp carrying ability. You can ask them for what ever they have in the scrap bin, and make a offer. Just DO NOT use type M or thinner.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I would be very interested in a thorough video about this... do you think they could be used as a BMS / shunt / inverter cable over 6-12" distances in a permanently mounted location? Or even as a DIY busbar??
Mr Daniel I am in the market for a good or decent 5000 watt 12 vdc/120ac inverter. Is the SWI inverters at that size any good. I am on a tight budget and I cant afford to buy junk. It will be mostly hard wired. Thank You.
Our WOKE society has sent a huge message from mega corporations, Media and Washington DC that kids and youth are open season for perverts and freaks to prey on. Who thought they wouldn't
Crack one open and look at the bloat, I tested and opened mine, I will avoid pouch ( cost savings) at all costs, the smaller size is a gimmick to a crappy product (my opinion based on tests)
You simply can not charge them to 100% based on the included BMS in them, It is for Prismatic. Truth is the Pouch cell will last longer than a prismatic but not by using a BMS made the same for Prismatic or even other LiFePO4. Take my word for it, if you get any more, charge them to 14.4 or less, charge should be shut off from charger, NOT the bms. My solar controllers set on AGM charge to 14.35, then stop. reconnect at 13.10. NO FLOAT. They made a huge mistake making pouch charge at 14.6 and the BMS allowing it. Pouch cells, says 90% is full charge, at 14.25 volts. But you got these fools who read somewhere, and drank the koolaid to believe Lithium is God Like, Zero to 100% back to Zero thousands of times and they will last decades. Wrong!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I have tested them at multiple charge limits and have yet to see one that didn't bloat, they act very similar to lipo cells, nothing you do will stop the bloat and eventual cell rupture or other failure failure. I have tested multiple manufacturers of these cells and in my experience it comes down to a sales gimmick on trying to sell a smaller package so that people can stuff 3 batteries in the same area at 2 batteries, it's a joke
I have had similar experience with them, Also Prismatic that bloated. These in the new cases have substantial compression, so they knew the chance of bloat and altered the methods. Some brands are much better than others, but honestly a Pouch cell is as you seen in my testing NOT supposed to be charged high. And as you saw, they had 400 amps capable (4x100) BMS but we know better, 3/4 rate them, or do not use them. I only paid $500 for all 4, new. They made me the offer to get them at 60% off for my testing and a video on them. Unlike guys who got them free, I got skin in the game, so I can be honest about them. Charge them lower, they rank a A at best as I said, not a A+ like the promoters are saying, and they should NEVER be used as just 1 battery pushed to the BMS limits of they will crap on you.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 like you I get zero compensation but I also get zero discounts, i either pay full price or I group members order amd have sent to me for a test/review, of the threw pouch cells batteries I have tested all of them are under compression/restraint by means of string lined package tape amd not under any sort or framework that would offer any substantial support, hopefully after 100's of reviews manufacturers will switch to some sort of an actually support structure that will keep the bloat within industry standards, I like your videos and how you show DIY /mods, keep up the good work
😍 LiTime Mini 100 Amp Hour, amzn.to/3P5I1Zl & all SWI POWER INVERTERS s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDbHZlX *EBAY source for SWI-power* ebay.us/jL1FKT *Join, Follow, Support* ko-fi.com/john4kiera OR www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL & Power Queen Top Grade LiFePO4 amzn.to/3N0RzlJ , REDODO Battery source ebay.us/5xrEWg Total DIY OFF GRID KIT parts amzn.to/42cdjBX
@john Daniel I just purchased 2 of the redodo Mini 100ah batteries. I'm new to the lithium world. So setting my solar charge controller will protect my batteries from over charging ? I just want to make sure I don't screw up my batteries. Thank you.
@@mikesterling9322 You can never screw them up charging lower voltage. They do not have a memory like older rechargeables. With a pouch cell, thats in them, you can swell the cells going to 100% often, so set your charge to 14.3 cut off, charge recovery at 13.2 and no float setting is needed on LiFePO4.
@Јоhn Daniel thank you so much. My charge controller is a basic Renogy so I don't think I can set the max charge voltage but if I set it at the AGM setting that should work correct? Thanks in advance, I appreciate your channel and knowing. 👍
@@mikesterling9322 Yes, there is also GEL setting, but which ever puts you closer to Controller Shut off and 14.30 volts max, 14.10 is OK too if that is their GEL setting.
Glad to see you finally came around on these Lifepo4 batteries. I can remember you being down right rude to me about them on a couple of occasions.
KERI, THAT IS A BEAUTIFUL KNIT. YOU ARE VERY CREATIVE AND WISH YOU SUCCESS WITH YOUR DESIGN COMPANY.
Great videos. Very helpful to me. Many thanks to you & Keira. I recently got a SWI-power 2000w inverter for my backup power station. Battery & BMS items coming soon.
Good info, never thought about using the AGM setting to stop the charging to 100%.
Using pouch cells, you have to stop charge yourself. They did not change the BMS to be for Pouch cells. So using AGM setting, most solar controllers stop at 14.20 to 14.40, usually 14.35. Waiting on the BMS to do the charge control will ruin pouch cells. None of them can last with the included BMS in the case. It is for LiFePO4 Prismatic. Or LiFePO4 Cylindrical. Pouch cells can actually outlast those, but die fast when charged the same.
My mom would love that sweater! What is wrong with people? Holy moly, sick, just sick! I hope you catch these creeps!
She did a great job making that jacket. I know it was a lot of work. And as far as the creeps go, they need to all go away, since they truly aren't needed.
This product is really great! I've been using this battery to cook while camping, it's very compact and easy to carry.
The jumper would look great in liverpool its a very artsy place and definitely fitting with the Beatles vibe 👍
That looks very nice that she made.
If you start needing really high capacity from your inverter or your battery storage solution, it's almost always smarter to leave 12v behind and move up to 48v solutions. The "mini" batteries are using pouch cells, but they are still LiFePO4 chemistry, so their charge and discharge curves would be very similar. Any observed differences would boil down the BMS they used and how that was configured.
I put that manufacturers data link in the video, have to write it out on here later. But it explained why the charge absorption is odd with pouch cells compared to prismatic. Problem with them is they do use identical BMS in them, and you may want 100 charge in them, but avoid it. 90 to 95% is already hard on them. As for 12 volt, I pull over 11,000 watts when needed without issues. Chose not to be a fool and spend 400% more to run a electric drier or stove, And if one battery fails in my 32 I'm pissy but not crippled however is one battery of 32 fails in a 48v I have lost 1/4 my entire system. So, the hot shot dealers say your hillbilly, stupid, and archaic to use 12 volt, they have hyped higher volts till the cows come home while making bank on it, but if you loose 1/4 your system ever you may need a generator running on gas to turn the lights on for those cows headed home. I do not like risk, love redundancy and am willing to save 30% on inverters, lighting, basic auto/marine rated appliances using 12 volt off the shelf everywhere than depend on a dem dare sopfistucated higher volt dealers cashing my checks till I'm broke buying that " available only here" speshulized stuff. 🤗
looking foward to your channel miss k. kool sweater😎
Beautiful sweater! Excellent work.
Thank you! 😊
Thanks. again John & Keira, for another great video. FYI, you may want to mention that Li Time offers an 8% OFF Military & Veterans discount on Official Store on all items. This discount is available to all U.S. veterans and active-duty service members. Please also mention if other battery and related equipment mfgs off these discounts as well. 😇
Cool tests...however that sweater is absolutely beautiful!
Thank you! I started her knitting at age 10 and she finally decided to get serious at age 17. When I got busted up the Folks have sent her $$ to get her supplies up, knitting and garden things and she's selling produce to keep it going. Great results.
Great video, I agree. Their products are affordable and get the job done.
Unless optical illusion due to placement and camera angle, the 4 -100 amp hours seem like they would take up a lot less space than 2- 200 amp hour batteries for the same 400 amp hours. What is/would be the difference in performance between the 4- 100s and 2-200s ?
Don't know what the "line through" came from
The 200ah Power Queen is same length but 1" wider than the Mini's, and in height the 4 mini's are 1/2" taller than the PQ. If your wanting higher capacity for much less real space then the mini is perfect for that. They make a 400AH in a 8D case like the Power Queen, but none have over a 250 amp draw capable BMS, with 4 of the mini you have 400 amp draw capable. Excellent for a RV with 3000 to 3500 watt inverter.
Great stuff, thanks John and Keira. One question I'd have is: how much power might be wasted through heat in those wires? You mentioned they're getting hot, which indicates to me that those batteries may actually be pushing a substantial amount more current through the wires than is detected by your clamp meter. I would personally bite the bullet and get some 4/0 AWG cables, not because they're at all necessary per se, but because you'll get the most accurate reading of battery power output. Just a thought. Otherwise though, I love your "real life" torture testing methods, and respect the hell out of your dedication to the truth. Thanks again!
We got a 20 degree temp rise, about 20 amps extra wasted so I added a extra set of cables to it. No more heat. Single 4/0 is not only very expensive, it is hard to get. Many sources are running out and lots of cable sources are out of basic materials or have upped their prices 50%.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Fair enough man. I've experienced the rise in copper prices firsthand as well, it's a real mess. I'm at the point now where I can't justify anything bigger than 0 AWG for these mini power stations I build. Every watt is precious, but so is every dollar lol. I just try to make the cables as short as I can possibly manage, chop the excess, and terminate it myself for future projects. That's one reason I love building batteries from raw prismatic cells, they always include busbars! Max efficiency for minimum cost.
Having a short and long wire like 6 inches in length different can it damage the battery
Try at every chance on a permanent install to use equal length cables so you do not burden one battery or terminal with excessive loads.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Okay thanz
hi thanks for you videos, but now im little bit confused :D if you put 4pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel. and the rating for one battery say 100amp max output. Is the total allowed output 400amp or is it still 100amp? those cables and connections are so thin. I dont know what lifePO4 to buy to be able to run a SWi 3000watt inverter for food cooking. it should be able to easy run an hour of 2200w induction plate. 12v. +/- 183amps. +roof ac 300-600w etc.
Depends on the Roof AC unit actual rating of start up amps actually. But using the buss bars you should be able to run the full 400 amps the 4 battery design is capable of if needed. You can get 1.5" wide 3/16 thick copper bar in such a connection and be good for 440 amps total. The full amp pull on the inverter would be 3000 watts divided by 12.8 volts ( 234.4 amps ) plus 10% for conversion efficiency ( 258 amps ) total. A DC load, if thats your AC unit, with that of 600 watts is same math minus the conversion efficiency 600 watts ( 50 amps ) so your total load is under 300 amps. You can use up to 4 foot of 1/0 cables on the inverter and 6 awg up to 9 feet on the air conditioner DC load without a issue. Go to the next larger sizes if your distance is longer to prevent drop and resistance. As for a battery choice, get 2 of the 230 AH ones with 1/0 jumper welding grade cables as shown in my most recent video. Those batteries are on a big sale amzn.to/4dnOQz7
Is the Redodo mini same pouch cells?
Yes sad to say. They ( 12 branded sales teams, shops within a single underwriter, but all basically from one import union group) used to be sourcing from different assemblers, different cells makers, different BMS brands and even some different cases. Quality was based on each teams picks of assembly and sourcing. But now it's looking like in China there are numerous factories failing, world economy related and these brands that are mostly all from the same major importer shipping union and their teams sourced from numerous suppliers now they are choked back in source availability, now have joined each other in using same dwindling suppliers and like I showed in a video months back I knew that this would happen due to the China and later everyone collapse that is coming.
If you want better draw/charge pull one side positive and the other ground.
2/0 should be enough just use high strand welding cables. It’ll take that load no problems.
Love the videos. Does the copper pipe you flattened work better for jumpers than actual cable?
The copper tube is better since it is lower total resistance. As for opposite ended pulling, that is excellent and better on Lead Acid, but the BMS in a LiFePO4 is so sensitive I wired it like seen to make sure they read each pull more equal.
Hey John! I hope you’re feeling a lot better! I have been watching all of your videos on Batteries and I want to make the right decision on a purchase. I have 200 watts of HQSTsolar and 2000 watt ERAYAK inverter based on your recommendation. But I’m confused on the batteries! Just so many choices! Help when you get a chance. Thanks in advance
Herman
Double those solar panels and right now, for both ability and financial reasons get the Donjin 100ah x 4 for dirt cheap. amzn.to/3X9lW03 Thats over $450 less for 400 Amp Hour than a single 300ah battery from anyone. Use simple 2 awg cables to connect all 4, and seriously, get no less than 2 more of them solar panels, better to have 6 of them running on 2 - cheap 30 amp Bouge amzn.to/3ywoMlq $44 lifepo4 controllers actually. Then you can actually survive what the lunatics running the system will do to us all. Right now, their solar panels are cheap, but some nut in Washington named Joe imposed the solar tariffs of 100% to go into effect in June. 4 pack, amzn.to/3yoMaB4 So DO NOT WAIT!
Look at that just what I wanted to see.. I’ve already ordered the li time batteries but I might actually order 2 mini’s instead. Mainly for the weight saving. I’ll be sure to use ur link.. have you tested the wind turbines yet?
Yes, we have 3 wind turbines to install, pipe bases are done, but not risking shoulder yet to hoist them up. They tested full ability, just been short to buy so much materials and at some time build on house for 6+ here. I'd say the Mini is a good battery, no lesser then similar able batteries. Just lighter and easier to handle.
drinking Jack Daniel's and watching John Daniel, no Kiera no like 😁
THATS IT THEN!!!! It's always all about the purdy lil' lady! Just For That, I'll never show my face on here again!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 not your fault you're too Porky an can't spell 🫣
Thanks for sharing
I want to purchase a sweater please ? Black or dark blue.
She said you'd look good in a Charcoal with blue striping.
I think building your own battery is the way to go. I just wish batteries was not so expensive. Im waiting on some 280 amp hour eve cells and a 300 amp daly bms to put together at the moment. Id love to buy prebuilt batterues but im afraid they are built with b grade cells that may or may not last
Even though I like the Power Queen, tough, solid, sourced well, I would not promise you 10 years, likely 7.5 is about right. The metal cased 400ah Vatrer amzn.to/42yfGOi is about the only one in all these built that may make it 10+ years. It is made 100% by Image Energy a Japanese owned company, using ELB Energy Group cells, has real deal Motive Power cells in it. Other Vatrer batteries are OK, sourced elsewhere. But not that one. I wish I would have bought 6 of them for my whole system when I built it, but Panasonic controlled them until this year and cost was WAY HIGH. Now that I am broke, they got them for cheap.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 alot of people talk crap about nissan leaf cells for batteries but I worked several years at the nissan battery plant building the cells that the pack is made from and if you can get ahold of the cells before they are wore out they are better than the lifepo4 cells. Maybe a little more dangerous if you abuse them but definitely the best batteries out there for long life and staying balanced
John could you maybe answer a question for me? i bought 6 Li Time 24v 100amp batteries Do you have any idea why they say i can only hook 4 in parrallel? thanks for any info
Because they seem to have no clue in China what a BUSS BAR is. The basic is, the terminals on the battery is what they base it on. They expect you to jump cable from one battery to another, creating a challenge for the terminal and the BMS. They fail to understand Wire gauge based Buss usage. So, for yours, you can easily using 6 awg in equal lengths ( under 7 feet long/away ) 4 awg over 7 feet, and a buss bar. Then if you want to add more, run them the same. Pos/Neg cables same identical length, and buss bar that can handle your solar input, and battery output with at least a 5/16" lug for a 3000 to 4000w inverter. If you want to be safe, add a 80 amp breaker on each battery. Doing this is auto balancing, load is in the buss bars, and no load is in grouped terminals or unequal drawn BMS.
helpful th-cam.com/video/y35PgmApOuw/w-d-xo.html
when i contacted them they said it had to do with the BMS.
i was thinking of useing copper bus bars to hook them in parrelle insted of wire.
Just use ( EXAMPLE ) for 6 batteries, make 12 ( 6 black/6 red ) cables in 6 awg at 6 foot long, connect them all up from each battery to a single pair of heavy buss bars ( black/red ). I just make my own, none of the products online make one for 500+ amps. You'd need 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 6" ebay.us/dn3Un8 twice and some stand off isolators ebay.us/lm4Y5I and some, (12) 1/4" stainless and one pair of (2) 5/16 x 1" nut/bolt sets.
Kiera, I'm sorry you got a creep following you. Unfortunately there is little you can do ..... Creeps gonna creep!
What you DO have control over is how You react! Stay strong, and know that the Creep to Normal people ratio is extremely low!
Got to say that "jumper" looks really good. The number of people willing and able to create something like that is not a large number!
Definitely a bit more than "Knit one pearl one"!
What's a creep?
@@ivar-the-terrible A person who is not nice. Creeping around in the background waiting to cause trouble.
copper pipe... worked great! and much cheaper than ordering stuff online
Call a local plumbing company, tell them you want some 3/4" type L soft copper left overs, they will sell it to you for about $6 a foot or less. I will be showing soon how to make it into a buss with embedded studs that can handle over 450 amps. The 1/2" can just hit the 300 amp ability, but the 3/4 soft type L can hit 440 amps per foot max. I have some 1" type K that is over 800 amp carrying ability. You can ask them for what ever they have in the scrap bin, and make a offer. Just DO NOT use type M or thinner.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I would be very interested in a thorough video about this... do you think they could be used as a BMS / shunt / inverter cable over 6-12" distances in a permanently mounted location? Or even as a DIY busbar??
Mr Daniel I am in the market for a good or decent 5000 watt 12 vdc/120ac inverter. Is the SWI inverters at that size any good. I am on a tight budget and I cant afford to buy junk. It will be mostly hard wired. Thank You.
Look on the AliExpress page, these are in a US warehouse. 6000 watt will not disappoint. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDbHZlX
CAN'T BELIEVE YOU STILL HAVE TO ADDRESS THE "CAN'T FIX STUPID" PEOPLE. OTHERWISE, ANOTHER EXCELLENT LEARNING VIDEO.
Our WOKE society has sent a huge message from mega corporations, Media and Washington DC that kids and youth are open season for perverts and freaks to prey on. Who thought they wouldn't
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More like 4 100amp batteries.
Crack one open and look at the bloat, I tested and opened mine, I will avoid pouch ( cost savings) at all costs, the smaller size is a gimmick to a crappy product (my opinion based on tests)
You simply can not charge them to 100% based on the included BMS in them, It is for Prismatic. Truth is the Pouch cell will last longer than a prismatic but not by using a BMS made the same for Prismatic or even other LiFePO4. Take my word for it, if you get any more, charge them to 14.4 or less, charge should be shut off from charger, NOT the bms. My solar controllers set on AGM charge to 14.35, then stop. reconnect at 13.10. NO FLOAT. They made a huge mistake making pouch charge at 14.6 and the BMS allowing it. Pouch cells, says 90% is full charge, at 14.25 volts. But you got these fools who read somewhere, and drank the koolaid to believe Lithium is God Like, Zero to 100% back to Zero thousands of times and they will last decades. Wrong!
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I have tested them at multiple charge limits and have yet to see one that didn't bloat, they act very similar to lipo cells, nothing you do will stop the bloat and eventual cell rupture or other failure failure. I have tested multiple manufacturers of these cells and in my experience it comes down to a sales gimmick on trying to sell a smaller package so that people can stuff 3 batteries in the same area at 2 batteries, it's a joke
I have had similar experience with them, Also Prismatic that bloated. These in the new cases have substantial compression, so they knew the chance of bloat and altered the methods. Some brands are much better than others, but honestly a Pouch cell is as you seen in my testing NOT supposed to be charged high. And as you saw, they had 400 amps capable (4x100) BMS but we know better, 3/4 rate them, or do not use them. I only paid $500 for all 4, new. They made me the offer to get them at 60% off for my testing and a video on them. Unlike guys who got them free, I got skin in the game, so I can be honest about them. Charge them lower, they rank a A at best as I said, not a A+ like the promoters are saying, and they should NEVER be used as just 1 battery pushed to the BMS limits of they will crap on you.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 like you I get zero compensation but I also get zero discounts, i either pay full price or I group members order amd have sent to me for a test/review, of the threw pouch cells batteries I have tested all of them are under compression/restraint by means of string lined package tape amd not under any sort or framework that would offer any substantial support, hopefully after 100's of reviews manufacturers will switch to some sort of an actually support structure that will keep the bloat within industry standards, I like your videos and how you show DIY /mods, keep up the good work
Put the creeps names addresses ,and phone numbers on a web page. I bet they quit disrespecting her.
They all hide due to how brave they are.
Look in for the battery ..stick arounf for the cringe .... or not ...