Wool Suit Fabrics Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- A wool suit will be far superior and of better quality compared to a polyester blend - we’ve been over this- wool is more breathable, or insulating, it’s a natural fiber and sustainable for the environment, has a better hand and feel, and is still the common and go-to choice for professional attire or formal occasions.
But, what kind of wool fabric do you go for?
Worsted, woolen, flannel, high twist, plain weave, hopsack, super 150’s, merino, tweed, cashmere….and in what weight? It can be a little overwhelming, but once you have a better understanding it can be very interesting and even nice to have a variation in your wardrobe.
When I make suits and help our customers I always try to nail down TPO (T is time, P is place and O is occasion) which helps lead us to the best recommendation.
I’ll help you solve for T or season by breaking down the options into 3 categories; Spring Summer wools, Fall and winter wools and four season wools. Then, based on your place and occasion you can make an informed decision on your next suit.
I hope you enjoy the video!
This is the first video from your channel that I watched. I was expecting a generated stock footage video without in depth information. And I was very surprised. I learned so much in this video. And I loved how you illustrated it all with examples. Great, great, resource!
Thanks for the feedback and thank you for subscribing!
How does this only have 700 views!! Fantastic explanation and visuals! Folks , follow this guy!
Thank you! The video just went out, so hopefully over some time we will get the views it deserves.
This video is fantastic! Thank you for making it a one stop shop intro into fabrics... helped me understand the big picture and put into perspective what I should look for personally so looking forward to the next!
Glad it was helpful! If you are in the market for something, I'd be happy to help answer more questions directly, just shoot me a mail here if interested to set up a call: www.principlem.com/contact
There is much more to this fabric than most people realize. This video is a great explanation of the how, why and benefits of the different weaves. I enjoy wearing wool trousers over cotton and linen; something about the feel of the fabric.
Thanks for sharing, I know what you mean. Come summer, many people hear 'wool' and they think its hot and too warm-wearing compared to a linen or cotton. However, a 250g high twist wool will be VERY comfortable, breathable and you get the clean crisp look that wool gives you.
I agree, wool trousers always, drape much better
Excellent, informative video. Thank you for the education, I'm excited to start designing some custom suits.
I'm glad you like it, thank you for sharing. Although I'm based in Beijing, I'd also be happy to explore some custom suit options over a a call with you if you are ever interested. We do serve international customers all over.
@@Justin_Kwan It's definitely something I would consider! Thank you Justin
@@thomaskittock2866 when you are ready to set up a call, please contact me here: www.principlem.com/contact (i'd leave my email but I'm trying to avoid internet spammers)
Great explanation. I look forward to even more information. Where are you? Beijing?
Thanks, more to come! I'm originally from the US, after graduating from University I move to Beijing to explore the clothing industry & tailoring as well as learn some Chinese and eventually started my brand Principle M. That was over 15 years ago...time flies!
Thank you for breaking all of this down. So helpful and makes me appreciate my current wardrobe more than ever
Glad it was helpful!
You gotta love a medium grey high twist 4-ply Wool suit - my spring summer staple or in the office 🙏🏼
very nice! Definitely one of my top recommendations for easy, everyday wear in warm weather.
I really enjoy your videos...I like the chill presentation-style, and clear info. Too many TH-camrs almost "shout" at the audience or talk too quickly. Nice work on these vids. I learn a lot!
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you like the videos and I know what you are talking about with some of those shouting youtubers that talk too quickly. I much prefer speaking like I'm having a conversation rather than yelling at you guys!
I really prefer the conversational-style. Looking forward to more of your videos! @@Justin_Kwan
This is pretty cool. Definitely will rewatch before ordering my next suit.
Cool. If you have any specific questions, ask here. I answer all questions and others might find the Q&A useful
A very informative video! The graphics were great and your experience in suiting weights and fabric characteristics were key to understanding what would work in a wardrobe ,considering where one lives, and what one is looking for in comfort and convenience. Added a subscription and look forward to more content! Be well!
Thank you for the feedback and for subscribing!
Fantastic video, I'm a new subscriber to your TH-cam channel and look forward to following you and getting a thorough knowledge, since classic menswear fashion is my passion thanks for sharing I now having a greater appreciation and understanding for many of the fabrics I am familiar with!
Welcome aboard!
Hi, thanks for a nice informative video. Can you give some examples of high twist i.e. bunches etc with flexibility, that you mentioned? Thanks.
Just found this channel. Great explanations; I had to go back a few times to catch the info. What would you recommend for all-year business suit in Hong Kong weather?
Normally I'd suggest a high twist wool at around 250-280g. However, if you are normally indoors and rarely outdoors (for example, working and living in Central) then a 280g worsted might serve you better. Based on my experience there, the air conditioning is very strong, and believe it or not, a high twist can be a bit too breathable and the cold AC in the summer might might bother you. A worsted will offer a bit better insulation. So, ask yourself if you find yourself cold indoors more often than not? (then go with worsted 280g) or are you always hot? (then go with a high twist wool 250-280g.
Useful
Glad you think so!
On the subject of breathability and insulation, how do you think about choices in lining? For example, if you’re going for a breathable high twist suit, does adding lining to the jacket defeat the purpose? Or less of an impact in your experience?
Also what colors/characteristics do you like for summer time, work horse, business suits in high twist? Thanks!
Hi, that's a good question. In my experience, a high twist wool that is lined is more breathable than a twill wool of the same weight that is lined. But of course, unlined will be even more breathable. When I make a suit specifically for summer using high twist wools, I always opt for unlined or half lined in the jacket and no lining in my trousers.
For a work horse summer suit in high twist, you can't go wrong with navy if you are in a conservative work environment. Another color I love for summer is a wheat, sand or grey-beige color. This is nice because you can also break up the suit and wear them as separates.
Pro tip to keep in mind: since high twist has an open weave (almost like a window screen) it could be a bit see-through. This isn't a big problem since the front of the jacket is lined with canvas and there is the double layer of fabric with the facing/lapels, so you wont see your shirt pattern through the front. However, it's important in the sleeves and back. I usually choose a sleeve lining that matches the color of the suit fabric rather than a contrasting or striped lining. In the back, I'm less concerned since I'm usually facing people and they wont be distracted by the subtle pattern of the shirt occasionally showing through. But, if this is something that might bother you, you should consider full lining.
I could go on and on about this..... I hope it's helpful!
If you are interested in going deeper in this discussion on a call and have any interest in the custom clothing we offer, I'd be happy to set up a call. Just contact me on my website and we can set up a time: www.principlem.com/contact
I am researching fabric options for a Tuxedo to wear for summer wedding. Temperature will be warm but not humid. Would to hear your thoughts on type of fabric to go for. Thanks again for very insightful video.
One of my favorite options for summer tuxedos is a wool & mohair blend. A light summer weight of 250g will have a beautiful drape due to the natural spring and crisp hand of mohair. One of the biggest selling points about mohair; it has a natural and beautiful sheen. Here is a link to some pictures of the one we carry. If you have more questions, let me know, I'm here to help! www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/guabello-black-mohair-blend-tuxedo-jacket
I've decided to make a heavy Tweed suit made with a wide leg & high-rise trouser.
Sounds fabulous!
high twist wool with natural stretch? which fabric? I want that!
Escorial is one that comes to mind. A newer fabric I've seen on the market, Stylebiella, also offers some but they have 4% lycra. Fresco light tend to be slightly less rigid than the original fresco.
Great video! I recently made the mistake of not buying enough fabric for a suit, and now i've got a woolen suit jacket but no pants to match!! I've got other wool pants (the normal, not fuzzy ones) but it's a pain trying to find a color match (anthracite). I know i'll never be able to find a perfect match, specially since the fabric itself had a silk inner lining and was very rigid (I have no idea what kind of fabric it was) the seller said it was dead stock Dior fabric, but who knows... what would you do in my situation? Which type of pants would you pair it with? Should i do the abominable and pair it with jeans? Try to find a similar weight fabric? I never seem to wear it and I do feel kind of bad for the wasted fabric.
Definitely don't try to find a close match to make a suit, that will never work out. Instead, let's look at the bright side and be constructive. Matching your dark jacket in anthracite, can look very chic with cream, off-white or white trousers. Wear some black knitwear inside--a polo, knit tee or turtleneck would all work. I'd wear that with black loafers in calf skin or even some black suede Belgian loafers would do. Or, another monochromatic way to wear it would be with a light grey trouser and a white shirt. Start with these two looks, then experiment with other ways to wear it and get that jacket into rotation!
@@Justin_Kwan This is such clever advice! I'll make it my mission to wear it more often! Thank you very much for the answer.
@@aaronvelazquez5599 Your welcome
It seems that you are discussing suits for men only. However, I (woman) am considering making a jacket and skirt of a silk-wool blend. The fabric is expensive, so I wonder what you think.
A lot of the information I share, such as in this video this, is relevant to both men's and women's tailoring. Wool-silk blends make for fantastic fabrics, from the hand, drape and luster, but they are quite luxurious and can be expensive. My only advice is if you are visiting a new tailor for the first time, it might be wise to first make something more entry level price to get a taste of the tailors work and cut before splurging for something more luxurious.
@@Justin_KwanThanks for the advice. In my case, I want to make the suit myself, using a vintage pattern from 1960. The pattern is unusual, but not complex. I'll do plenty of research, and make a toile first... the silk wool I have in mind is $70 per yard, so I intend to be careful. I appreciate any further advice you might give.
Sounds like it will be amazing. A pattern from 1960 and in a wool/silk blend. Please share pics of the work if you can! Going with a toile first will also minimize risks.
@@Justin_KwanWhere to send pics? It will be a while... I have a few other projects first.
If you use instagram send to me at "kwanton" or email to justin@principlem.com -- thanks!
Is a super 160s very difficult to maintain?
I'm planning on buying one for my engagement and using it sparingly afterwards.
Would you recommend a 130s to a 160s?
Hi, I think a nice 160's would be a lovely and luxurious suit to celebrate an event like your engagement. I wouldn't say it's much harder to maintain than a 130's, it will be important that it fits and drapes nice. If it's at all tight or doesn't fit, those imperfections will show more than on a 130's. So it will be good to try it on first if it's RTW, or if tailor made, it will be important that you do it with a tailor you've made suits with before so there are no surprises. Best of luck and congratulations on your engagement!
@@Justin_Kwan thank for the reply Justin, would you recommend any do's and don'ts in a 160s maintenance?
I don't'. want to know how many kinds of Wool there are I want to know Wool is made of what ?
Good question. Check out this video I made that covers the main 3 types of suiting fabrics and what they are made from: th-cam.com/video/ql42vZB5v4k/w-d-xo.html
the only problem is once you start to appreciate what's out there you also realize how bloody expensive it can be to dress nicely. I still enjoy it though, my suit I had made makes me look better than 99% of people in just about any situation.
I'm sure you find it rewarding!
Just disovered your channel. It's a treasure trove. Cheers
Great to hear, thanks for subscribing.