วีดีโอ

Thanks for appreciating our work!

Ha! Maybe I don't look it, but I feel 40...

It's hard to say without seeing the fit. If you want to send me a pic and use instagram, send one over, my username is 'kwanton'. But without seeing it, I'd say if the shoulders and sleeves are a good fit, then the amount of roominess is subjective. My navy cashmere overcoat when worn over a suit is just right, the beige polo coat is a bit more roomy and I'm currently making a 'generous' fit charcoal coat. Although we are making classical clothing, there are cyclical trends where even our fit and drape change. Now, the cycle is going into a more relaxed fit.

Thank you. I am afraid I don’t use Instagram.

Glad you find those two to be the most practical!

I appreciate it!

Thank you so much for joining along. Happy holidays from Beijing!

Appreciate that! Hope you can learn a few things from this video.

Thank you, that means a lot! Here’s to a fantastic 2025 for all of us.

Thank you, Kevin! Have a happy new year and hope to see you around in the new year!

Great! I hope you can find a better fitting trouser. Another tip is to size up, then they might be a bit more relaxed in the leg, but loose in the waist, however the waist is very easy to alter and usually not as expensive as altering the thighs

That's great! I like unstructured shoulders, especially on my odd jackets and blazers. I even did that on a lot of my suits over the past few years, however now I'm striving to achieve a more structured look with my formal full suits. I think this might have to do with the environment, which is more casual. However, when there is a formal occasion, it allows me to go further towards the formal and structured side of the spectrum, which is what I like! Does that make sense? (Tone doesn't come off in writing, but if I read that with my tone you'd know what I mean)

@Justin_Kwan yes, most of mine are patterned. Thank you for the quick reply. The reason I am asking is I'm looking to convert to regular fit pants rather than slim. However, most of my blazers have no structure on the shoulder. Do you think there would be a clash there? Wider pants with no structured shoulder?

@@billyhoang4991 I don't think you need to worry about that. I wear jackets without shoulder padding with a classic cut regular fit pants quite often. In fact, I think it's more awkward to wear a structured jacket (meaning more formal or rigid) with casual trousers or chinos.

If they are vintage and flannel, that means they should be very robust and a heavy duty fabric. As long as they aren't tight in the crotch or in the hips (meaning less friction when walking) I think you could wear the heck out of them without worrying too much about wearing them out. Just don't wear them 2 days in a row, let them hang, air out and re-gain their shape on a hanger.

@Justin_Kwan Yes they fit well in my hips and crotch. The fabric is also pretty sturdy. Noted, I will not wear them for 2 days in a row, even though my inner self wants to wear them everyday haha. But thank you!

Thank you for sharing. Your Casentino coat and the Escorial Ulster sound amazing. Isn't it funny how a classically proportioned, well made coat, will still impress strangers? It's something about the beauty and aesthetic that a tailor learns over years and years of perfecting a cut and pattern--that's major value being passed on to you! I wish I could see the coats! Do you use instagram?

I'm glad you found it helpful!

Glad you like ideas. They definitely work across menswear and womenswear.

Fresco is a trademark brand name of the first high twist wool fabric which was made by the Hardy Minnis brand out of Huddersfield. There are a lot of other high twist fabrics now that get called a Fresco. It's like facial tissue all being called Kleenex

@Justin_Kwan what wool /polyester combination is best for summer suit's

@@musawarali3821 None. Instead, of anything polyester (which will make you sweat like you are wearing a plastic bag) go with a wool-linen blend, which will be more breathable and airy for summer.

Hello and thank you for sending me the love and the plan, which is awesome! I can get on board with everything but here are some tips and changes I'd suggest: Suit 1: Navy Blue DB Suit, I'd suggest a plain weave or twill instead of hopsack because hopsack does make a fine jacket however the fabric doesn't make the best pants due to the looser weave UNLESS it is a suiting hopsack fabric in which case it will be a finer plain weave. I might be getting geaky with fabrics but don't make the same mistake I did... Suit 2: I love this idea from the color to the fabric composition! Suit 3: Great idea! But I wouldn't splurge on a more expensive 150's fabric because it is going to be very delicate and wrinkle easily. I think you might want a suit that can be more versatile for your formal occasions. 150's also tends to have a slight sheen but because you are young, I think a fabric with a slight matte vs. sheen will give you more of that understated elegance and quiet luxury, which I prefer. Also, don't get all the suits at once. Get one by one because you will have slight stylistic of fit preferences after you get one, try it on and wear it once or twice. The tailor or brand you buy from will also be able to get a better sense of your fit preference along the way. I like you other shirt, shoe and accessory ideas. Well put together plan! If you want to work on the tokyo denim shirt or some other tailored clothing with me, let's set up a zoom call: www.principlem.com/contact Thanks again for sharing your plan.

@@Justin_Kwan Sir, thank you so much for your thoughtful feedback and suggestions! I really appreciate you sharing your comments, especially regarding fabric choices for the navy suit and the Super 150s. I'll take your advice and opt for a plain weave/twill navy DB suit and go for a more versatile, durable option for the charcoal 3-piece. I too was considering getting 1 suit at a time, to refine the fit and style with each iteration.Thanks once again for taking the time to guide me-your content and insights have truly inspired me to dress better and invest in timeless style.🌼

@@Justin_Kwan Could you kindly recommend a specific fabric or fabric range that would work best for the dark grey/charcoal 3 piece suit, keeping versatility,understated elegance and quite luxury in mind?

I don't know any mainstream brands but we do have a modified pair of Japanese denim that we cut high waisted and like a trouser: www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/denim-chino-v3

@ thank you! Can you make a video about any mainstream brands that you like/ liked? That would provide a lot of insight into your fashion journey and would be great to watch!

Glad you liked it!

Thanks!

I feel your pain. I designed a high rise denim trouser that you might like, and if you subscribe on my website, I'll shoot out an email next spring when we get more traditional 5 pocket denim in stock. www.principlem.com/shop-all/p/denim-chino-v3

Your welcome for the tips, hope you found it useful. Sure, I'll try to make a video around loafers, as you may notice in a lot of my outfit or styling videos on the channel I wear a lot of loafers. You could start with those videos for now to get some ideas and inspiration.

They were part of a limited collection we offered last FW.

The green is from Ponte Veccio collection, beige is from Tallia di Delfino

Thanks for sharing, I also agree with your point. But it's a tricky balance, to be sure you have a clean crisp trouser crease that is uninterrupted all the way down to the shoe as well as cover your socks. I think this is where the importance of tailoring the right length comes in.

I appreciate that!

Thank you for subscribing and following along. I'll consider that as well as give you some of my short answers here: when raining and chilly outside a waxed Barbour or trench coat. For shoes, it would depend, for a normal workday and let's say the streets and sidewalks are plowed, I'd probably wear any of my shoes since when I was back in MN I was driving much more and walking much less than I do here. However, I have a pair of Balmoral dress boots that have a rubber sole and would work well in light snow or plowed side walks, then I have a pair of Alden Indy boots in suede that I'd wear if there was a bit heavier snow. If I were trudging through a blizzard...I'd wear snow boots and have a change of shoes at the office.

@ Thank you very much for the in-depth reply and suggestions!

@@esamuel02 your welcome.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, especially from a gentleman who wears a tuxedo at least 3 times per week! Unfortunately, I haven't had an occasion yet this year to wear my tuxedo, but this weekend I'm hosting our annual Christmas party at the shop and will be in my tuxedo!

It's a sterling silver bracelet from Codis Maya, have had it for years now.

Good questions. The polo coat collar is called an ulster collar which has little to no gorge opening and the back collar and the lapel are the same length and often times the lapel 'peaks' out slightly longer than the collar. I guess the short answer to clarify your question is I would never make a DB coat with a suit-like notch lapel design. This also goes for a DB suit -- never notch lapels.

Thank you for the kind reply and for following along.

Great point, thank you for sharing that. Would you also style it in a similar way where you wear navy jeans/pants/chinos with a navy top and then finish it off with a jacket of sorts?

@@Justin_Kwan It looks great with a navy jacket and sweater. Haven't tried trousers yet, as I usually wear mid-grey. Charcoal suits also work well for me when styling in monochrome.

That's great. Thank you for sharing.

Same with me. For years I would be inspired by black dominated outfits, and be disappointed with how I looked when I would try to recreate the looks. I have now accepted that it looks terrible with my (Anglo, Scandinavian, Celtic) complexion. Now it’s espresso, navy, or charcoal for me.

Interesting. Are your peacoats vintage or made by modern brands? I bet that has a nice feeling when you stick your hands in the pockets, not to mention insulating.

@Justin_Kwan Different ages. None ever than 30 years old.

Will do!

Glad you liked it! Thank you for sharing that.

I appreciate the kind words and hope you continue to enjoy the content.

If you really wanted one and worked out a budget and made some lifestyle changes, I bet you could eventually invest in one that will last a lifetime.

I am...Time flies...let's make the most of it and dress well!

It can be difficult to find out the composition of a used garment, but if it's truly 100% cashmere it will feel very luxurious and soft and as long as you like it and it fits well, thats what matters.

I rinsed it 3 times, but only showed 1 rinse. Usually 2-4 rinses will be enough. You can tell when you run a rinse, squeeze the knit and if no soapy bubbles come out you are good to go.