That pile of stock behind you gave me flashbacks of breaking our stock before setting out for a job! Big 10' metal break with 26ga galvanized! We even did a couple of roofs in copper! Stainless steel range hoods, plenums for HVAC we even did industrial a ran huge sheetmetal ductwork with machine formed locking edges. One dude on the job had hair like yours. He got it stuck in a 1/2" drill while drilling holes for hanging all-thread about 3 scaffolds up for duct hangers in a shopping mall! I'll never forget that sound! 😂
I have watched hundreds of videos the past two yeasts getting ready to build my forever home this year. You have done a better job of explaining the roof than all of them in total. Lots of focus out there in windows and walls, which is great and all, but the thing that keeps the rain, snow, and hail from falling on your head while you sleep? Anyway, thank you! Awesome job.
I was just to start on the roof of my new solar shed in an identical fashion when I encounter this video of yours. I could not resist telling you even before watching because I am building a "worm roof" too and it is my first time so I'm sure I will learn something by viewing this first. Thanks in advance 🙏
Ray, I wish you had posted this 16 years ago when I started building my stick framed house. And that I would have been smart enought to find you then. Thank you. Future projects. We get a lot of rain here and I like the redundancy for vapor barriers. 🤙
Great video! A couple years ago when I was getting a new roof on my house I spoke to six or seven roofers and asked them all if they would do exterior insulation and they all looked at me like I was crazy. It's really hard to find a contractor who will do anything out of the norm.
You touched upon this in this video. For climates colder than Texas, the loss of R value at cold temperatures could become a problem. XPS or EPS would probably be a better choice in cold climates. Polyiso: At a mean temperature of 75°F, the polyiso sample also exhibits a level of thermal conductivity which correlates to its published R-value of R6. 0/inch. However, as the mean temperature drops to 15°F, the R-value decreases to approximately R2. 0, representing a significant 66% loss in R-value. Great videos. Thanks for all the detailed information.
Thanks for your comment! This is a complicated subject and while your statement has a basis in test data from studies done by BSC, it is inaccurate for several reasons. I will make a video soon where I will explain what I mean and I will have it peer reviewed by the people that did the actual testing that led to this claim. Thank you for a great opportunity. I'm excited about it even thought it will probably get less than 1,000 views. lol Stay tuned.
Hi Mark I haven't forgotten this and I'd like to make this video but it would probably be more appropriate later in the evolution of this channel. I have spoken to the man that did much of this testing and wrote the reports. You can search the building science corporation website and reference this document. "Info-502 temperature dependence of R-values in Polyisocyanurate Roof Insulation." Let me address some major factors in a short and far from comprehensive response here for now. First, the testing was done and by the time the reports were written, the manufacturers were already modifying their products so follow up reports were not deemed a good use of time. The products have changed. Also and more importantly, while it was true that at -15 the r-value sometimes reported as low as an r-2, there is a temperature gradient through the thickness of the insulation board and while the outside face of the board was at -15, the inside face would be at indoor room temperature with a range of temps throughout. So while the first fraction of an inch might be r-2, the inside was greater than 6LTTR and the average would have been far greater than 4 in those conditions. All insulation has a similar effect but some manufacturers of competing products jump on cherry picked data and put it out into the world out of context and it is then spread in its inaccurate form. I will be following up on this but it will be later in the year or perhaps early next year. For sure it will be after summer camp as I will discuss it there with the parties involved. I just didn't want you to think I had blown you off.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Thanks for the response and info. I am an electronics engineer and follow what you are saying and had come to the same conclusions...insulation closer to the interior would retain it's full R value. I look forward to your coverage of the subject although there is no hurry as I am a few years from building a retirement home. I hope to build a net-zero, off-grid solar ICF home in the mountains of NC. So your channel is very interesting to me. I plan to do a "warm roof" design as they call it in the UK. The Lake Lot Build TH-cam channel has me thinking about a flat roof design with parapet walls and a rooftop deck. The actual roof would be fiberglass but see very little sunshine as it would be shaded by the deck. Anyway, thanks for sharing your expertise.
Yes, here in Canada, zone 6 poly iso is not the right exterior, but XPS would be the one and the brand would be Dow because they use a good blowing agent that prevents deterioration over a long period of time. Cheers from East Canada...prepping for an extension with 6 inches xps on walls and 6 or 8 layers xps on the roof....to find sub contractors on stick build section to help me is a journey in itself...I have all the vids lined up to show them to teach them....we carry on....keep having fun!💯👍☺🇨🇦
It’s been my experience that tar paper never rots. It gets dirty and looks bad, but it never breaks down. I’ve torn down houses that have 100 year old tar paper on them and seen places where the sheathing is rotted down to crumbs and the tar paper is still functionally intact. I’m doing the same system on my build but I’m going with rockwool insulation like Comfortboard. It’s vapor permeable and somewhat hydrophobic so you don’t have this issue.
Heya, nice roof insulation a lot of layers. my house that I want to isolat is from 1906 with a 30 centimeter massive brick walls so to isolat my house I have to do it our at the out side our at the inside. and 1 side I can only do at they inside as this wall is on the walking pavement of the city street that's gone me a lot of work
Yes historic European buildings can be quite a challenge and problems can be created if the laws of physics are not considered. When we change heat flow we can alter moisture movement in materials, sometimes with harmful effects.
Great video, I let my GC do my snaplock roof when we remodeled, as they were significantly cheaper than the more experienced bidder. As usual, the sweetness of low price never equals the bitterness of poor workmanship.
I live in central Texas, and I was just curious where you are sourcing your polyiso? (or majority of building materials?) I'm building a pretty big floral studio for my wife and have decided to do external insulation all the way around. Would be happy to refer you for any kick backs or commission that helps you out as well. Thank you for your time, I have been greatly enjoying your videos!
I'm not interested in commissions but I have found it difficult to find polyiso when I last purchased it. Hopefully the situation has improved because I have had to call in favors to get it. I last purchased from Roofing Supply Group, which I believe is now called Beacon. Beacon seems to be buying up lots of the suppliers. Good luck with your project and feel free to ask questions.
Great video. Why do you think this assembly won't be able to dry? Fiber faced polyiso is very low perm, likely less than 1 at that thickness, but by using an air barrier, not a vapor barrier on the roof deck and under the standing seam roof, don't you think the assembly would be safer for light moisture intrusion than using peel and stick vapor barrier membranes? People say you can't dry through the metal roof, but I doubt snap lock metal roofs are air/vapor barriers at the crimps and should allow light wetting to evaporate out. So although the drying potential is low, it's better than zero by using class 1 vapor barriers under the roof and above the roof deck
It’s a good thought but I think in reality the drying would be too slow to really prevent rotting. Best to be perfect at keeping it out as difficult as that is.
Hello Ray! Following your channel with huge interest, all the way from the Netherlands! Great to see how your project is coming along, and very impressive to see how much effort you put into the details. What I'm missing somewhat though is some more info on your BMS? I can just find your video about wiring the balance leads, but I'm kinda curious as to how you wired the whole BMS and how you connected it to your system? I might be missing the video in which you do, in that case please do share in which one! Other than that; very inspiring and keep up the good work!
There are a few. Here is one. Lifepo4 Battery Is Coming Together Easy Peasy; Good Preparation Makes It Look Easy! Also this one. Let's Build a Battery!!! I Love This Stuff!!! DIY Lifepo4 Rocks!!! There is also this video about creating the mount for the BMS and screen. Lifepo4 Battery Box Construction; Mounts For the BMS, Display and Disconnect Installed! These are just titles not links but should make it easy enough to find. I'll do another on the coordination with the inverters when the time comes.
On walls I use foil faced polyiso and use foil tape on the seams. I do that because I suspect it slows the off gassing. The polyiso has an r-value of 8 per inch when new but eventually the gasses in the foam are replaced by air and the r-value is reduced to 6.25 per inch. I hope I’m extending it by using foil tape which is a vapor barrier.
Hello Wonderful to your building videos :), would like more of them! :) Any chance you had experience with natural insulation materials like hempcrete? If so please let me know Plus have you had experience with rammed earth buildings, walls (only 100% cement free) Love the videos :)
What is the longevity of poly iso insulation? I am trying to come up a way to insulation with mineral wool batts since that is what is carried at Lowes and Home Depot. The mineral wool board is almost impossible to find and the price is crazy.
Special order but comes out of 10/4 or 12/4 material. Quite a bit more costly and my nail gun only goes to 3” so fasteners would be a challenge. I’d probably end up using 4” screws.
Hi Ray, love your video! One question: I keep hearing to never put in two seporate layers ( not a double layer) of vapor retarded because it cannot dry in the middle to the inside or the outside. Please advise. Building a Carriage House in the Mojave Desert. About 2" of rain a year, all in 3 storms.
Ray, we in Australia don’t get as cold as you do in the states except in very few places. Most of our people live within a few miles off the ocean so don’t often get below freezing. Heat varies but we do get over 100 F but not for extended periods unless you live inland. We don’t go to as much trouble as you appear to on the roof. On one of our roofs you would have to be careful where you stepped as we usually have rafters and batons to hold up either tin or tiles. Most of our insulation would be placed over the ceiling. This is the case for a pitched roof. A lot of new places are getting built with flat or low pitch roofs, here perhaps insulation on outside is used. Maybe with people looking to get higher efficiency homes the building practices will change, but there is no felt paper to be found around here.
maybe a dum question but why wouldnt you just screw on SIP's on to your roof industrial ones are aluminum on both sides and 4" foam in between then you don't need to roof
It’s not a dumb question. The reason I have always shied away from sips is because in any situation where there is a roof leak and the layer of decking on top is compromised, the structural integrity of the entire roofing system is damaged. There are also the issues of the complexity of installing it with the splines and sealants and trying to figure out how to get it all together so that it performs as an airtight structure. There have been some pretty bad failures over the years. They lend themselves to straight simple structures and don’t work at all well in a roof that is cut up. The reason that they have never caught on and become a popular building method is because of the numerous Problems with their implementation in the field.
Nice video. i have only one comment..That insulation is so damn expensive here.. and i expect it is also expensive in america..Do you really needed? Well i don't know your locations so for hot summer it might have actually sense but i think for winter not much.. but i don't know your locations and climate..here in middle of Europe usually 2 inches is ok..and ofc it isn't so important for this shed..for house sure that has much sense..but if you had extra insulation then ok i understand it..but i wouldn't place two layers of insulations on top..That is just too much to be honest.. It looks good ..that is fine not a problem to your skills and all that..but i think it is a bit overkill but it is your shed so it is ok :) I understand
Agree that PIR insulation is too expensive. I use a thicker layer with cheaper insulation. Only use pir if a thicker layer cant be placed. Suitable thickness of insulation is depending on usage of building and location in the world. In sweden 10cm insulation is a bit low for a shed that is kept at 5-10C or warmer.
The total cost of all of the insulation for walls and roof was 1,600usd. It allowed me to leave the wood ceiling exposed which avoided the cost of the additional finish layer of less desirable gypsum board. In any case these are two climate controlled buildings. They are powered by solar and batteries. Insulation is far cheaper than solar and batteries. Managing the temperatures of the batteries and inverters will improve their performance and their longevity. It can't be done practically if you are fighting 38c air temperatures and 70c roof temperatures without the benefit of insulation and airtight construction. We get one chance to build buildings right and that is at the beginning. After that, fixing it is too expensive. I see people build shoddy enclosures and then spend tons of money on expensive high performance equipment. It makes no sense to do that. Perhaps the problem is in calling these high performance buildings, sheds. They are equipment and mechanical buildings that will be used to store, household goods and equipment, house live animals and house their electrical supply system. I'm cutting some corners compared to my home projects but that doesn't mean I will reduce performance to a level that we regret some upfront cost savings. Nope.
Building design and insulation selection can't be considered without context. For instance , I always prefer to use external insulation. If I need a dense and structural substrate for my cladding system then polyiso is a great choice which is why it is preferred for roofing applications. I also use it for walls that have masonry veneers as it can support the masonry anchors if they are chosen wisely. If, however, I want to use a cladding that I want to make very flat such as siding or cementitious panels, then I use an 80 lb rock wool panel insulation. It is more costly and requires 50% greater thickness to achieve the R-value but it allows me to tweak the plane of the finished surface by adjusting the tension of the screws that attach the furring strips that hang the cladding. Design should be holistic. This building uses polyiso to achieve several goals simultaneously. I'm getting great performance with minimal thickness(wish it was thinner) and I get to see the underside of the structure and the structure becomes a bit of thermal mass. It contributes to the airtightness that is achieved with the external laters and it will hold up forever.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff That is all fine Ray. Nobody has problem with that. Anyway as i said it all depend on you the builder of this project. After all we don't have much to say to it at all :) :) . Anyway nice work. I think you can also add normal insulation from inside and you don't need to add those boards..they are heavy and not needed to be honest..but it is extra work to cut it to exact with ..Anyway.. Hot weather will be problem for sure.. I expect you will have big problems in that regards.. I expect once you will start using inverters on full load and mostly during summer you will see that inside will be pretty hot. I do see it in my mechanical room ..i had to use forced air during night time in summer to cool it ..because during day it is about same as outside and sometimes hotter.
Insulation was never cheap - cause it costs more than nothing and also takes time. My dad did isolate the roof back in the early 70s in Germany by 20 cm or 8 inches the full beam hight just by being aware that it would be a lot cheaper to do it then than later. 3 years later and the first oil crisis showed that he was right and what paid off the most were all the energy efficiency investments he had done. And it of cause depends how the building is used, but a shed full of battery and electronics or workbench becomes more or less a living space the older you get at least if you are a tinkerer. Insulation always pays off unless you live in a climate where you do not need to use an AC nor heating cause each of these will cost you more in the future than now except you have a surplus from solarpower which usually appears then when you need the AC during hot days.
I believe this shed will house expensive solar inverters and batteries. The money he is saving by doing the work himself can go back in superior design, material, and workmanship.
Have you seen the amount of batteries and inverters that will be part of it ? Do you know the value of those investments the shed has to protect and what determines the value of such batteries in your house? constant save and warm climate cause these are LiFePo4 cells which need a really good treatment to last longer - based on scientific research. You might know about a Tesla. What made a Tesla superior from the very beginning and was needed for high acceleration values was the cooling and heating of the batteries. If you drain or charge a battery it needs to be prepared for that being in the right shape or climate to perform the best , which means to charge fast or full power for acceleration and to last the longest time. As he mentions 1600$ for a well insulated roof is not too much considering the 50.000$ value the shed might give a shelter (batteries and inverters and time invested). And it does not look like it will be used like a shed of a farm, more or less like a living room simply to get the most out of the batteries and so on. And finally he gets the nice interior and clean look inside of the wooden construction. I like it a lot and my dad build his home that way over 50 years ago before the first oil crisis had shaken our country. We even had highway free sundays which meant no one was allowed to use the autobahn on sundays back then.
Finally a simple hot roof design, explained well and shown well. Amazing!
That pile of stock behind you gave me flashbacks of breaking our stock before setting out for a job! Big 10' metal break with 26ga galvanized! We even did a couple of roofs in copper! Stainless steel range hoods, plenums for HVAC we even did industrial a ran huge sheetmetal ductwork with machine formed locking edges. One dude on the job had hair like yours. He got it stuck in a 1/2" drill while drilling holes for hanging all-thread about 3 scaffolds up for duct hangers in a shopping mall! I'll never forget that sound! 😂
I have watched hundreds of videos the past two yeasts getting ready to build my forever home this year.
You have done a better job of explaining the roof than all of them in total. Lots of focus out there in windows and walls, which is great and all, but the thing that keeps the rain, snow, and hail from falling on your head while you sleep?
Anyway, thank you! Awesome job.
Thanks so much. More to come.
HOWdy R-B-C-S, ...
Ray the ROOFER !
Thanks
COOP
...
That is so cool. Loved the last video. Thanks for sharing. God Bless.
Great info Ray - keep it coming!
I was just to start on the roof of my new solar shed in an identical fashion when I encounter this video of yours. I could not resist telling you even before watching because I am building a "worm roof" too and it is my first time so I'm sure I will learn something by viewing this first. Thanks in advance 🙏
Ray, I wish you had posted this 16 years ago when I started building my stick framed house. And that I would have been smart enought to find you then. Thank you. Future projects. We get a lot of rain here and I like the redundancy for vapor barriers. 🤙
You are genius
Thanks for sharing!
Great video! A couple years ago when I was getting a new roof on my house I spoke to six or seven roofers and asked them all if they would do exterior insulation and they all looked at me like I was crazy. It's really hard to find a contractor who will do anything out of the norm.
Same for me, it’s like I was from Mars
I would like more variety of insulation in Australia.
You touched upon this in this video. For climates colder than Texas, the loss of R value at cold temperatures could become a problem. XPS or EPS would probably be a better choice in cold climates.
Polyiso: At a mean temperature of 75°F, the polyiso sample also exhibits a level of thermal conductivity which correlates to its published R-value of R6. 0/inch. However, as the mean temperature drops to 15°F, the R-value decreases to approximately R2. 0, representing a significant 66% loss in R-value.
Great videos. Thanks for all the detailed information.
Thanks for your comment! This is a complicated subject and while your statement has a basis in test data from studies done by BSC, it is inaccurate for several reasons. I will make a video soon where I will explain what I mean and I will have it peer reviewed by the people that did the actual testing that led to this claim. Thank you for a great opportunity. I'm excited about it even thought it will probably get less than 1,000 views. lol Stay tuned.
Hi Mark
I haven't forgotten this and I'd like to make this video but it would probably be more appropriate later in the evolution of this channel. I have spoken to the man that did much of this testing and wrote the reports. You can search the building science corporation website and reference this document. "Info-502 temperature dependence of R-values in Polyisocyanurate Roof Insulation."
Let me address some major factors in a short and far from comprehensive response here for now. First, the testing was done and by the time the reports were written, the manufacturers were already modifying their products so follow up reports were not deemed a good use of time. The products have changed. Also and more importantly, while it was true that at -15 the r-value sometimes reported as low as an r-2, there is a temperature gradient through the thickness of the insulation board and while the outside face of the board was at -15, the inside face would be at indoor room temperature with a range of temps throughout. So while the first fraction of an inch might be r-2, the inside was greater than 6LTTR and the average would have been far greater than 4 in those conditions. All insulation has a similar effect but some manufacturers of competing products jump on cherry picked data and put it out into the world out of context and it is then spread in its inaccurate form. I will be following up on this but it will be later in the year or perhaps early next year. For sure it will be after summer camp as I will discuss it there with the parties involved. I just didn't want you to think I had blown you off.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Thanks for the response and info. I am an electronics engineer and follow what you are saying and had come to the same conclusions...insulation closer to the interior would retain it's full R value. I look forward to your coverage of the subject although there is no hurry as I am a few years from building a retirement home. I hope to build a net-zero, off-grid solar ICF home in the mountains of NC. So your channel is very interesting to me. I plan to do a "warm roof" design as they call it in the UK. The Lake Lot Build TH-cam channel has me thinking about a flat roof design with parapet walls and a rooftop deck. The actual roof would be fiberglass but see very little sunshine as it would be shaded by the deck. Anyway, thanks for sharing your expertise.
Yes, here in Canada, zone 6 poly iso is not the right exterior, but XPS would be the one and the brand would be Dow because they use a good blowing agent that prevents deterioration over a long period of time. Cheers from East Canada...prepping for an extension with 6 inches xps on walls and 6 or 8 layers xps on the roof....to find sub contractors on stick build
section to help me is a journey in itself...I have all the vids lined up to show them to teach
them....we carry on....keep having fun!💯👍☺🇨🇦
Thanks for the details...very useful!
thanks ray, interesting !
just gave me a whole plan to build my garage.
here the mostly build out of bricks, but just might do a timber one
Even masonry buildings can have this roofing system. When I mock up the wall system I will show how it can be done in masonry or wood.
It’s been my experience that tar paper never rots. It gets dirty and looks bad, but it never breaks down. I’ve torn down houses that have 100 year old tar paper on them and seen places where the sheathing is rotted down to crumbs and the tar paper is still functionally intact. I’m doing the same system on my build but I’m going with rockwool insulation like Comfortboard. It’s vapor permeable and somewhat hydrophobic so you don’t have this issue.
Heya, nice roof insulation a lot of layers. my house that I want to isolat is from 1906 with a 30 centimeter massive brick walls so to isolat my house I have to do it our at the out side our at the inside. and 1 side I can only do at they inside as this wall is on the walking pavement of the city street that's gone me a lot of work
Yes historic European buildings can be quite a challenge and problems can be created if the laws of physics are not considered. When we change heat flow we can alter moisture movement in materials, sometimes with harmful effects.
Great video, I let my GC do my snaplock roof when we remodeled, as they were significantly cheaper than the more experienced bidder. As usual, the sweetness of low price never equals the bitterness of poor workmanship.
😂
I live in central Texas, and I was just curious where you are sourcing your polyiso? (or majority of building materials?) I'm building a pretty big floral studio for my wife and have decided to do external insulation all the way around. Would be happy to refer you for any kick backs or commission that helps you out as well. Thank you for your time, I have been greatly enjoying your videos!
I'm not interested in commissions but I have found it difficult to find polyiso when I last purchased it. Hopefully the situation has improved because I have had to call in favors to get it. I last purchased from Roofing Supply Group, which I believe is now called Beacon. Beacon seems to be buying up lots of the suppliers. Good luck with your project and feel free to ask questions.
Thanks Ray, excellent and useful explanation! For the final roofing layer could it be whatever one wishes?
Pretty much. The 5/8" decking might have to be 3/4" for certain roofing systems like clay tile.
Great video. Why do you think this assembly won't be able to dry? Fiber faced polyiso is very low perm, likely less than 1 at that thickness, but by using an air barrier, not a vapor barrier on the roof deck and under the standing seam roof, don't you think the assembly would be safer for light moisture intrusion than using peel and stick vapor barrier membranes? People say you can't dry through the metal roof, but I doubt snap lock metal roofs are air/vapor barriers at the crimps and should allow light wetting to evaporate out. So although the drying potential is low, it's better than zero by using class 1 vapor barriers under the roof and above the roof deck
It’s a good thought but I think in reality the drying would be too slow to really prevent rotting. Best to be perfect at keeping it out as difficult as that is.
Hello Ray! Following your channel with huge interest, all the way from the Netherlands! Great to see how your project is coming along, and very impressive to see how much effort you put into the details.
What I'm missing somewhat though is some more info on your BMS? I can just find your video about wiring the balance leads, but I'm kinda curious as to how you wired the whole BMS and how you connected it to your system? I might be missing the video in which you do, in that case please do share in which one!
Other than that; very inspiring and keep up the good work!
There are a few. Here is one. Lifepo4 Battery Is Coming Together Easy Peasy; Good Preparation Makes It Look Easy! Also this one. Let's Build a Battery!!! I Love This Stuff!!! DIY Lifepo4 Rocks!!! There is also this video about creating the mount for the BMS and screen. Lifepo4 Battery Box Construction; Mounts For the BMS, Display and Disconnect Installed! These are just titles not links but should make it easy enough to find. I'll do another on the coordination with the inverters when the time comes.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff those titles will suffice! Thank you for the quick reply!!
Something I've seen with the foam boards is taping the joints in addition to staggering them. What are your thoughts on using tape on the joints?
On walls I use foil faced polyiso and use foil tape on the seams. I do that because I suspect it slows the off gassing. The polyiso has an r-value of 8 per inch when new but eventually the gasses in the foam are replaced by air and the r-value is reduced to 6.25 per inch. I hope I’m extending it by using foil tape which is a vapor barrier.
Hello
Wonderful to your building videos :), would like more of them! :)
Any chance you had experience with natural insulation materials like hempcrete? If so please let me know
Plus have you had experience with rammed earth buildings, walls (only 100% cement free)
Love the videos :)
What is the longevity of poly iso insulation? I am trying to come up a way to insulation with mineral wool batts since that is what is carried at Lowes and Home Depot. The mineral wool board is almost impossible to find and the price is crazy.
Polyiso will last as long as the building if protected from the sun and insects.
Is the full 2" t&g decking readily available?
Special order but comes out of 10/4 or 12/4 material. Quite a bit more costly and my nail gun only goes to 3” so fasteners would be a challenge. I’d probably end up using 4” screws.
Better b 16 inch centers and use 2x8 rafter rafters to support that weight...
Hi Ray, love your video! One question: I keep hearing to never put in two seporate layers ( not a double layer) of vapor retarded because it cannot dry in the middle to the inside or the outside. Please advise. Building a Carriage House in the Mojave Desert. About 2" of rain a year, all in 3 storms.
I will give you a reply later today, and I may make a video about your question.
can you come to pa and help me with my roof?
So sorry there aren’t enough of me.
Whoa!
@@m.carter9090 Giddy up!
Ray, we in Australia don’t get as cold as you do in the states except in very few places. Most of our people live within a few miles off the ocean so don’t often get below freezing. Heat varies but we do get over 100 F but not for extended periods unless you live inland. We don’t go to as much trouble as you appear to on the roof. On one of our roofs you would have to be careful where you stepped as we usually have rafters and batons to hold up either tin or tiles. Most of our insulation would be placed over the ceiling. This is the case for a pitched roof. A lot of new places are getting built with flat or low pitch roofs, here perhaps insulation on outside is used. Maybe with people looking to get higher efficiency homes the building practices will change, but there is no felt paper to be found around here.
maybe a dum question but why wouldnt you just screw on SIP's on to your roof industrial ones are aluminum on both sides and 4" foam in between then you don't need to roof
It’s not a dumb question. The reason I have always shied away from sips is because in any situation where there is a roof leak and the layer of decking on top is compromised, the structural integrity of the entire roofing system is damaged. There are also the issues of the complexity of installing it with the splines and sealants and trying to figure out how to get it all together so that it performs as an airtight structure. There have been some pretty bad failures over the years. They lend themselves to straight simple structures and don’t work at all well in a roof that is cut up. The reason that they have never caught on and become a popular building method is because of the numerous Problems with their implementation in the field.
Nice video. i have only one comment..That insulation is so damn expensive here.. and i expect it is also expensive in america..Do you really needed? Well i don't know your locations so for hot summer it might have actually sense but i think for winter not much.. but i don't know your locations and climate..here in middle of Europe usually 2 inches is ok..and ofc it isn't so important for this shed..for house sure that has much sense..but if you had extra insulation then ok i understand it..but i wouldn't place two layers of insulations on top..That is just too much to be honest.. It looks good ..that is fine not a problem to your skills and all that..but i think it is a bit overkill but it is your shed so it is ok :) I understand
Agree that PIR insulation is too expensive. I use a thicker layer with cheaper insulation. Only use pir if a thicker layer cant be placed.
Suitable thickness of insulation is depending on usage of building and location in the world. In sweden 10cm insulation is a bit low for a shed that is kept at 5-10C or warmer.
The total cost of all of the insulation for walls and roof was 1,600usd. It allowed me to leave the wood ceiling exposed which avoided the cost of the additional finish layer of less desirable gypsum board. In any case these are two climate controlled buildings. They are powered by solar and batteries. Insulation is far cheaper than solar and batteries. Managing the temperatures of the batteries and inverters will improve their performance and their longevity. It can't be done practically if you are fighting 38c air temperatures and 70c roof temperatures without the benefit of insulation and airtight construction.
We get one chance to build buildings right and that is at the beginning. After that, fixing it is too expensive. I see people build shoddy enclosures and then spend tons of money on expensive high performance equipment. It makes no sense to do that.
Perhaps the problem is in calling these high performance buildings, sheds. They are equipment and mechanical buildings that will be used to store, household goods and equipment, house live animals and house their electrical supply system. I'm cutting some corners compared to my home projects but that doesn't mean I will reduce performance to a level that we regret some upfront cost savings. Nope.
Building design and insulation selection can't be considered without context. For instance , I always prefer to use external insulation. If I need a dense and structural substrate for my cladding system then polyiso is a great choice which is why it is preferred for roofing applications. I also use it for walls that have masonry veneers as it can support the masonry anchors if they are chosen wisely.
If, however, I want to use a cladding that I want to make very flat such as siding or cementitious panels, then I use an 80 lb rock wool panel insulation. It is more costly and requires 50% greater thickness to achieve the R-value but it allows me to tweak the plane of the finished surface by adjusting the tension of the screws that attach the furring strips that hang the cladding.
Design should be holistic. This building uses polyiso to achieve several goals simultaneously. I'm getting great performance with minimal thickness(wish it was thinner) and I get to see the underside of the structure and the structure becomes a bit of thermal mass. It contributes to the airtightness that is achieved with the external laters and it will hold up forever.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff That is all fine Ray. Nobody has problem with that. Anyway as i said it all depend on you the builder of this project. After all we don't have much to say to it at all :) :) . Anyway nice work. I think you can also add normal insulation from inside and you don't need to add those boards..they are heavy and not needed to be honest..but it is extra work to cut it to exact with ..Anyway.. Hot weather will be problem for sure.. I expect you will have big problems in that regards.. I expect once you will start using inverters on full load and mostly during summer you will see that inside will be pretty hot. I do see it in my mechanical room ..i had to use forced air during night time in summer to cool it ..because during day it is about same as outside and sometimes hotter.
Insulation was never cheap - cause it costs more than nothing and also takes time.
My dad did isolate the roof back in the early 70s in Germany by 20 cm or 8 inches the full beam hight just by being aware that it would be a lot cheaper to do it then than later.
3 years later and the first oil crisis showed that he was right and what paid off the most were all the energy efficiency investments he had done. And it of cause depends how the building is used, but a shed full of battery and electronics or workbench becomes more or less a living space the older you get at least if you are a tinkerer.
Insulation always pays off unless you live in a climate where you do not need to use an AC nor heating cause each of these will cost you more in the future than now except you have a surplus from solarpower which usually appears then when you need the AC during hot days.
Ohhh Ray, Isn't This Whole Thing Kinda Overkill For A 2-Room Shed? What's It Costing, $200 Per SqFt??? 😂😎
I believe this shed will house expensive solar inverters and batteries. The money he is saving by doing the work himself can go back in superior design, material, and workmanship.
Have you seen the amount of batteries and inverters that will be part of it ?
Do you know the value of those investments the shed has to protect and what determines the value of such batteries in your house?
constant save and warm climate cause these are LiFePo4 cells which need a really good treatment to last longer - based on scientific research.
You might know about a Tesla. What made a Tesla superior from the very beginning and was needed for high acceleration values was the cooling and heating of the batteries. If you drain or charge a battery it needs to be prepared for that being in the right shape or climate to perform the best , which means to charge fast or full power for acceleration and to last the longest time.
As he mentions 1600$ for a well insulated roof is not too much considering the 50.000$ value the shed might give a shelter (batteries and inverters and time invested). And it does not look like it will be used like a shed of a farm, more or less like a living room simply to get the most out of the batteries and so on.
And finally he gets the nice interior and clean look inside of the wooden construction. I like it a lot and my dad build his home that way over 50 years ago before the first oil crisis had shaken our country. We even had highway free sundays which meant no one was allowed to use the autobahn on sundays back then.
The roof insulation was only 1,000usd. The other 600 was for wall insulation, both interior and exterior.