Climbing Mount Everest K2 with David Roeske: Life in the Death Zones | Optimal
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- David Roeske is the 5th American to climb both Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen, and has also summited multiple other 8,000 meter peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen. He’s also a competitive runner, with a 2:32 personal record in the NYC marathon.
This episode is sponsored by:
SATIA: satia.com/ Live Better
Topics:
00:00 Intro
01:07 Summiting Everest twice / Once Without Oxygen
05:27 The feeling of being without oxygen for so long
07:24 The risks in climbing and summiting K2
14:29 Five minutes versus one hour at the top of Everest, without Oxygen
16:09 Climbing up vs climbing down
20:35 The competition to be the first American females to climb 14 8k meter peaks
28:08 Approach mountains with humility
28:55 Fueling your body for training to summit
34:34 The quality of foods on-mountain
35:52 How do you train for an 8000m summit in New York City?
41:25 How do you recover from a 8km summit?
50:24 The simplicity and release you get from the attention economy when there's no wifi
52:40 How do you see the future of climbing evolving? Social media clout?
57:31 The hardest question is why do you climb?
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The guide he’s talking about regarding the 1996 Everest disaster was Rob Hall who was from New Zealand and spoke to his pregnant wife shortly before he died. Scott Fisher was the other guide who died.
He totally loses me there. It was so interesting until that point 🤦🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️
Important corrections there.
David Roeske is a legend. His story is seriously incredible and I really love what he had to say about how mountain climbing highlights your character, do you help your fellow climbers in times of need or do you step over them. Valuable message to anyone listening wether they're a crazy climber or not!
thank you for your feedback.
Some High-Altitude climbers are in it for the experience- some for the notoriety-and some are just DEATH FREAKS. The experience oriented are a small minority.
I’m subscriber 464. Looking forward to more good interviews. Life -enhancing topics, no glitz, no ugly thumbnails, no AI.
totally noted! so happy you're here.
That was a joy to listen to. David Roeske's honest and sometimes moving narrative of the dangers and hazards of high-altitude mountaineering is easily the best interview I have seen on the subject. David talks about the less appealing and worrying aspects involved in what is rapidly becoming a tourist destination. Mount Everest!
Really appreciate this comment - David is such a legend and it was so interesting hearing this story (believe me he has so many more.)
"Reinhold Messner is from Germany, maybe Austria" he just killed my South Tyrolean heart
Reinhold Messner is actually Italian
Legendary, my favourite pod so far! 🙌🏼
thank you!
Great interview, had an absolute pleasure listening to David. One feedback would be for an interviewer - wouldn't hurt to be better prepared for another interview next time. Also, Reinhold Messner is Italian, not German or Swiss although he does speak German :) cheers
What I can't wrap my head around is those who are parents doing it, as is said time and time again. If this is your thrill, and the only method getting that thrill, how do you still come to place it above not coming home to infants of kids or any age? You brought these guys onto your world but you've considered the high risk of death, and made peace with it? Despite people knowing what they're up against - acceptance, in those moments, the human's instinct to preserve their life surely kicks in and they think FUCK. In the case of parents, at the point they come to realise it's game over, how many do you think come to think of themselves as feckin eejits and wish they hadn't been so dogged in their pursuits?
It’s truly unbelievable! It’s clearly about their ego. Good parents don’t take risks like that.
337 Subscribers?! what?! This is the only interview I've sat through the full thing, hope this channel blows up. Will be following David :)
We do too! Share it with your friends and we're glad you're here.
What an amazing interview! Incredible to hear his story
We completely agree. We have some incredible guests coming up so be sure to subscribe for more content just like this.
Great interview, thank you! 👏🏻
Thank you so much for your support - be sure to follow for more!
Hats off to the alpine purist and all like him...
great interview on one of my favorite themes , pleasure to watch this
appreciate the feedback - be sure to subscribe for more content just like - and if you have a moment, please leave us a review on Apple Podcasts - thank you!
Excellent conversation. Good questions Ben. Understated. Like the way you are not the story and allow your guest to keep and elaborate on their answers in this forum. Have some feedback for you if there is a place I can leave it. Nicely done.
Thank you / email me ben@bowersoptimal.com
Excellent interview 🎉
Thank you for the support - if you haven't already, be sure to subscribe for more content just like this.
What a coincidence had a bike called Everest when I was a kid. My uncle is still using... David really soft talker and his point of view is absolutely right. Great humble guy.
He's incredible and he has many many more stories - be sure to follow for more content just like this.
@@BowersOptimal I will pay attention 😉
Great job 👏 and congrats
Thank you for listening - be sure to subscribe for more content just like this!
That's incredible ❤
I completely agree with you.
Guides names wasnt Scott Fischer it was Rob Hall,
Yes.
And he was from NZ not Australia. Mike Groom who was a surviving and supporting guide is Australian.
It makes no difference who you are or where you came from; if you died, nothing justifies it. K2 is one of those places on Earth where people simply don't belong.
I think you were talking about the movie touching the void with joe simpson, the crevasse thing
great movie that one
i summited k2 on my unicorn and giggled the whole way
Pretty sure Ben is talking about "Touching the Void" incident at 17:45
Touching the Void was in South America not the Himalayas
But that’s an old statistic correct? The numbers have vastly shifted as more interest and enthusiasm spikes, as such more developed methods and logistics which have brought that number substantially down. It’s not to nit pick: but we might as well call out the accurate number especially when dramatically different. Otherwise what’s the point of using an outdated statistic that’s makes the climb more statistically deadly when it’s no longer correct?
Hi - feel free to correct me - what’s the updated statistic? Thank you for your comment -
The statistic is deaths compared to successful summits (not attempted climbs). According to one source, K2 had 22 deaths For every 100 successful summits. Everest had three deaths per 100 summits.
@@1234sunnny How many people attempt to summit compared to those who successfully summit?
Green boots is paljor, an Indian soldier. I am sure he is climbing mountains in that valhalla where all warriors go...
Most expeditions to K2 intend to climb the Abruzzi spur route. Wonder if anyone will ever repeat the NE, and SE ridge routes..the magic line... God bless whoever tries.. the Polish route. Or maybe from the Chinese side, the North ridge route. That is going to require a solo climber, or maybe a pair... but no larger team.
Great
appreciate the support
Did he fix his own ropes ? Cook his own food ? Make his own tea ? Because if it was Sherpa aided than whats the difference ?
This is answered within the interview, but we hope to bring Roeske back on where he can go into further detail.
Why would anyone take these kinds of risks of death or long term health issues, is it just to satisfy the ego or what?
To challenge oneself. And it’s compelling physically and mentally like surfing. The sharp focus.
I liked training and learning the skills - but never went higher than Mount Rainier. Couldn’t afford the time and money for places like Everest even if I was skilled enough.
I can’t imagine risking limbs, eyesight or life itself to do this though. Anatoli Boukreev said it’s supposed to be a sport.
I took care of brain-damaged people and I wouldn’t want to risk my brain health for a sport. I do appreciate what I learned about my fellow humans and the third man factor. I enjoy reading about mountaineering while sticking to hiking in good weather.
Maybe men like the brotherhood.
ROB HALL! Are you kidding me?
rob hall
What an amazing and humble guy ❤
No he’s not.
This [ascending K2] is no short of playing Russian roulette; practically you don't have any control at anytime over any environmental element and, more so, you expose voluntarily to that. This is not climbing, it's a suicide mission with a lucky out attached to it; pretty much something along the lines "If I don't die on that peak, I got to live again.." Madness. Nonetheless. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for listening - and thank you for this thought provoking comment. If you're not following us, join the community.
If the risk did not exist then no one would participate. Wow, genius. Am I right?
check out today's new episode - if you like this, I think you're gonna love it!
@@BowersOptimal Might be too risky bur I'll give it a shot!!!!
2023. Some 120 climbs, one dead. Statistics have changed
Awesome interview with the Brooklyn based legend 🏃🏁⛏️🏔️🙌
Thank you for the support and we completely agree! Be sure to follow for more.
Now subscribed 👊
This 4:1 death ratio is outdated. Just in 2023, 112 summits were recorded and just one dead person.
Yeah it's around 1:7 now rather than 1:4 , so very safe, don't know what the fuss is all about 😂
Why not try K2 drunk with Oxygen? Is that the same as climbing with no Oxygen?
Roeske shares he wanted to climb K2 as "pure" as possible and really experience the mountains. I will ask him for you though! Be sure to subscribe for more content just like this.
If he wants to operate on fat-burning for energy he should try the ketogenic diet.
So I’m 23 minutes in and it’s shameful that he has blown off every question about the “sherpas” and “climbing partners” he had during his climbs.
His stories are also very disjointed. He says he was on k2 and turned around from the summit to rescue someone on broad peak and then says the one time he did summit k2, he tried to climb but wasn’t ready and turned around at 8000m and then a couple weeks later he was successful. I’m very confused.
Additionally, if you’re going to belittle the climbers who use oxygen because it’s not pure, I sure hope that you’re carrying your own packs, making your own meals, setting your own ropes, and hauling every piece of gear without assistance or Sherpa support because surely it isn’t the pure alpine experience with all of the assistance of modern expeditions. Particularly when you fail to acknowledge any assistants
#saytheirname
Why is it shameful that he didn't mention the sherpas ... his paid employees?!
This is something that the sherpas bid on every year. They would rather earn 3-5x their usual yearly income in one month, than struggle for $1,400/year (average yearly Nepalese income).
If something extraordinary happened during the climb, then he would have spoken about it and the appropriate person would have received credit.
The more experienced sherpas, (Kami Rita, Lhakpa, Dhorje, NimsDai, etc) earn quite a bit more than the $5,000 per climb ... but, they are still paid to be there to do a job.
The true mountaineers are the sherpas which by the way use OXYGEN and carry pounds of things on their backs! He can’t do that.
he sounds like he would have gotten use of some oxygen
Explain
@@LG-zy9dp Don't agree with his assessment on the use of supplementary oxygen
I don’t understand why people look up to somebody who takes advantage of a Third World country and its population pay them a opinions to put their lives at risk and do 90% of the work for somebody like this to get all the credit? Why are you looking up to somebody who tries to kill himself and then says he’s living life his best or most optimal way? No you’re not. That’s trying to kill yourself. Is not living your most optimal way, why don’t you just appreciate life? I mean, I don’t care you do you but acting like this is like the way to live is so fucking ridiculous and just such a joke to me. People climb and Everest do very little of their own to get to the top. They do so much dangerous work going up and down the mountain upwards of 30 times to fix the ropes and attachments and then those are the people who are supposed to drag your ass down when and instead of you start dying on the mountain. They leave their trash all over these mountains because they’re too lazy to take their stuff with them once they reach their optimal time at the top of the mountain, and they pay the people who actually put their lives at risk almost to do so. They come on these podcasts and act like some big shit. It’s pathetic.