I buy almost everything in 2mm. Being in Europe, it's the easiest way to "standardize" my processes. The size is also versatile for multiple applications. Just recently I started with 1.2mm for thinner steel and 1mm for stainless. ✌🏻
This is a direct to the point very informative video. I am just about to try my first ever steel Tig, the information provided hear is answering exactly the questions I had to get set up correctly.
Quick note. If welding cast aluminum, stick with the slightly softer 4043 filler. This allows for more elongation and better prevents cracking. Also 5356 has a higher tendency to deposit porosity in the weld, it prefers cleaner metal than 4043.
I think a shop tour video would be nice, and maybe kind of explain what kind of side jobs you do. I’m going to welding school soon and want to start a shop at my house but want to know what I’ll need and how much space I’ll need
I'm working through your TIG welding course right now and practicing. All of the welding supplies in my area only carry ER70S-2 in 1/8 or 3/32 size. When I asked for 1/16 or .04 they look at me like I'm from Mars, lol. I've been trying with 1/8 so far and it seems really too big practicing on 1/8 coupons... I got some 3/32 today and I'm going to give that a go and see if it's a bit more manageable for me. I did order some 1/16 online and I'm looking forward to trying that out as well. But I figured I really may as well learn with what's going to be readily available anyway
Where was this a month ago?! I got pretty close, but went with 4043, 309l instead. 4043 being able to do cast, possibly wets out better and 309l for the dissimilar/unknown metals, if that's correct. I did get most of the rods in 3/32 tho. It sounds like I could have gone size smaller but most will just be beads on plate to learn tig for now. Would like to mention, for those looking to get into it too, that it sounds like 3/32" laYZr (chartreuse) tungsten is a popular all around do everything tungsten. Hopefully have the 220 plug wired up next week and I'll be able to find out for myself. Thanks for all the videos, sure getting excited
How the tig going? Did you get your 220 wired up yet? I just got my first welder a few weeks ago. So basically where you were at 2 years ago when you made this comment. I went balls deep into the welding world though. Bought a mig200 and a tig200, and a 55amp plasma cutter. Privably 100# of different filler and about 20 packs of different tungsten. I haven’t tried the layzr yet though. Probably going to order some after I write this comment though. I’ve had success with the grey and red though. I use 3/32 tungsten for just about everything. I’ll just change my grind to fit the material. Anyways sorry for the novel. Hope all is good with your welding adventure.
Very true, if you attempt to use typical oxy-acetylene brazing rod with Tig..... it'll be a popping/fuming mess; because of the zinc. Silicon bronze for TIG (ERCuSi-A) doesn't have zinc.
I used to work in the chrome department at Harley, back when they did their own plating. We had to load the plater baskets with pure nickel ingots (99+% pure) every Friday after 1st shift was done and it would take about 2 tons of nickel. The ingots are about the diameter of a quarter and come in metal barrels (about 12"x30") which we craned onto the deck surrounding the plating machine. We then emptied the barrels into buckets, from there we would fill basically a plastic bleach bottle with the bottom removed and dumped that into the titanium baskets which hung in the nickel solution, refilling the bleach bottle several time for each basket. The nickel tank was pumped to storage tanks for this refill operation. Many ingots would get spilled while we did this and we used large magnets with an on/off switch attached to a handle to pick them up. Pure nickel is magnetic.
Very cool! In iron based alloys, nickel is an austenite stabilizer, causing the iron atoms to arrange in a face centered cubic crystal structure which is non-magnetic.
@@GiovanniGiorgo Thanks. I would have expected those 2=magnetic stainless. I also thought chrome was the most significant non iron ingredient in stainless.
I’ve never used it on stainless, but I think it would still oxidize to some extent without a back purge. Whether that matters or not depends on the requirements of the application.
For thin stainless (say thinner than 16 ga or 1/16" or 0.063") I've found it's difficult to keep the heat low enough to avoid penetration (and sugaring) while still getting the area hot enough for proper brazing. It can sometimes be done if you tune the settings and can be easier with pulsing, but some sort of backing or something like Solar Flux can be useful if you're wanting to avoid back purging. For thicker material you have more wiggle room, probably because stainless conducts heat so much slower than mild steel. Some of this will depend on your strength needs, however, since the bigger beads required to match the strength of the base metal typically mean higher heat input-and the danger of sugaring or granulation returns.
Great videos, but they would be better with longer pauses between the cuts. At the moment, it's a bit like a word assault. One after the other. Relentless.
You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
I buy almost everything in 2mm. Being in Europe, it's the easiest way to "standardize" my processes. The size is also versatile for multiple applications. Just recently I started with 1.2mm for thinner steel and 1mm for stainless. ✌🏻
Great video, Tim! I love that you don't have any fluff. You just get right to the point! Good to know, thank you!
Wow… just picked up a miller 220 acdc. Great info for the newbie to welding here. Thank you
This is a direct to the point very informative video. I am just about to try my first ever steel Tig, the information provided hear is answering exactly the questions I had to get set up correctly.
Hello, I'm a Korean welding TH-camr. 🇰🇷
I'm enjoying the video.
Thanks Tim 👍
Lots of relevant info in there, and presented ( as usual) in your straight-up, no-fluff manner.
Much appreciated mate.
Regards
Robert
This is perfect Tim, thanks so much.
Quick note. If welding cast aluminum, stick with the slightly softer 4043 filler. This allows for more elongation and better prevents cracking. Also 5356 has a higher tendency to deposit porosity in the weld, it prefers cleaner metal than 4043.
Thanks!
I think a shop tour video would be nice, and maybe kind of explain what kind of side jobs you do. I’m going to welding school soon and want to start a shop at my house but want to know what I’ll need and how much space I’ll need
Thank you, well explained 🤝👌
Loving the videos! It would be great to see you do videos of real jobs that you work on. Procedures from start to finish in the real world
Excellent video, very specific!
Great informative video, would like to see some videos on the projects you make in your shop.
Thanks! I’m planning on making several project videos this year.
Great information... I've really leaned a lot today
Great post Tim thanks for information that I can refer back too!
How do you film your welds?
You put out great videos, keep them coming!
Great video.
Hey timmy boy, Good job👍
I'm working through your TIG welding course right now and practicing. All of the welding supplies in my area only carry ER70S-2 in 1/8 or 3/32 size. When I asked for 1/16 or .04 they look at me like I'm from Mars, lol. I've been trying with 1/8 so far and it seems really too big practicing on 1/8 coupons... I got some 3/32 today and I'm going to give that a go and see if it's a bit more manageable for me. I did order some 1/16 online and I'm looking forward to trying that out as well. But I figured I really may as well learn with what's going to be readily available anyway
बहुत बढ़िया 👍
Where was this a month ago?! I got pretty close, but went with 4043, 309l instead. 4043 being able to do cast, possibly wets out better and 309l for the dissimilar/unknown metals, if that's correct. I did get most of the rods in 3/32 tho. It sounds like I could have gone size smaller but most will just be beads on plate to learn tig for now. Would like to mention, for those looking to get into it too, that it sounds like 3/32" laYZr (chartreuse) tungsten is a popular all around do everything tungsten. Hopefully have the 220 plug wired up next week and I'll be able to find out for myself. Thanks for all the videos, sure getting excited
How the tig going? Did you get your 220 wired up yet? I just got my first welder a few weeks ago. So basically where you were at 2 years ago when you made this comment. I went balls deep into the welding world though. Bought a mig200 and a tig200, and a 55amp plasma cutter. Privably 100# of different filler and about 20 packs of different tungsten. I haven’t tried the layzr yet though. Probably going to order some after I write this comment though. I’ve had success with the grey and red though. I use 3/32 tungsten for just about everything. I’ll just change my grind to fit the material. Anyways sorry for the novel. Hope all is good with your welding adventure.
Have you ever used Hobart 4943 filler for Aluminum?
I use 1/16” 316l a lot but I do prefer 308. I use er70-6 for mild in 1/16” and 3/32
Do a video with what rods you can use with the HTP 160 plus welder
The only rod I had any trouble with was 3/32” 6010. 1/8” 6010, 3/32” & 1/8” 7018 worked great. I’m sure 6013 would be fine as well.
Please make a video on gmaw up hand V's down hand technique
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll add it to the list.
hello Tim what do I use for bronze sculptures
Guess I need the video that explains the why and how of using filler metals before this one.
What size filler rod to use 1.5 thick
Very educational as usual! Any book recommendations?
Thanks! One of my favorites is Metals and How To Weld Them from the James Lincoln foundation (Lincoln Electric).
Thanks!
Would coat hangers work for a filler metal ?
I heard the zinc content in the silicon bronze may give problem when using tig.
I’ve never had an issue with that, I’ll have to look into it. Thanks!
Very true, if you attempt to use typical oxy-acetylene brazing rod with Tig..... it'll be a popping/fuming mess; because of the zinc.
Silicon bronze for TIG (ERCuSi-A) doesn't have zinc.
I used to work in the chrome department at Harley, back when they did their own plating. We had to load the plater baskets with pure nickel ingots (99+% pure) every Friday after 1st shift was done and it would take about 2 tons of nickel. The ingots are about the diameter of a quarter and come in metal barrels (about 12"x30") which we craned onto the deck surrounding the plating machine. We then emptied the barrels into buckets, from there we would fill basically a plastic bleach bottle with the bottom removed and dumped that into the titanium baskets which hung in the nickel solution, refilling the bleach bottle several time for each basket. The nickel tank was pumped to storage tanks for this refill operation. Many ingots would get spilled while we did this and we used large magnets with an on/off switch attached to a handle to pick them up. Pure nickel is magnetic.
Very cool! In iron based alloys, nickel is an austenite stabilizer, causing the iron atoms to arrange in a face centered cubic crystal structure which is non-magnetic.
@@TimWelds please reiterate this in plainer language. Sounds really important but a bit over my head.
@@carpediemarts705 Iron and nickel are magnetic on their own but when the two are combined they are no longer magnetic.
@@GiovanniGiorgo Thanks. I would have expected those 2=magnetic stainless. I also thought chrome was the most significant non iron ingredient in stainless.
Great video thanks! If you silicon bronze on stainless you don't need a backpurge right?
I’ve never used it on stainless, but I think it would still oxidize to some extent without a back purge. Whether that matters or not depends on the requirements of the application.
For thin stainless (say thinner than 16 ga or 1/16" or 0.063") I've found it's difficult to keep the heat low enough to avoid penetration (and sugaring) while still getting the area hot enough for proper brazing. It can sometimes be done if you tune the settings and can be easier with pulsing, but some sort of backing or something like Solar Flux can be useful if you're wanting to avoid back purging. For thicker material you have more wiggle room, probably because stainless conducts heat so much slower than mild steel. Some of this will depend on your strength needs, however, since the bigger beads required to match the strength of the base metal typically mean higher heat input-and the danger of sugaring or granulation returns.
@@benz-share9058 Thanks for the tips! This is useful to know. I guess the thing to do if it doubt is try on some offcuts and look for sugaring.
I loved the ad that talked about having a better poop. Wstched the whole ad. Dont know if that helps or not.
Super 👍
Great videos, but they would be better with longer pauses between the cuts. At the moment, it's a bit like a word assault. One after the other. Relentless.
Dammit Tim, it’s been too long. Wtf?😆
Great information... I've really leaned a lot today
Thanks!