Someone who knows what they are doing: 1) Marking the drive shaft u-joint, and drive shaft ends. 2) Putting the nut onto a bolt prior to tapping the bolt out. 3) Tire spoon as a pry bar - perfect tool for prying. 4) The classic box organizer for bolts. Pay attention people, because doing things correctly is a dying art.
Peter Ulrich , thanks for the comment man 👍. I would have never guessed someone would have noticed that tire spoon I use...especially since it was only shown in the video for just a few seconds a couple of times. I suspect you too have been wrenching for many years as well to see all of those details that make doing a job so much easier and better in the long run. All the best to you sir ! Steve
@@c_mac7773 , thanks man 👍. That probably would help folks to make sure they have the tools ready to go to make the job a bit faster...I’ll keep that in mind for the next ones. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Yeah so for me it’s one of the most frustrating things to deal with while working on a car. Because I’m not a mechanic I’m pretty good with my eyes when it comes to something being square or level but apparently judging what size are not our boat is, it’s not my thing LOL.
This video was incredibly helpful. I just finished replacing my pickup tube o-ring using this video as a general guide. I gotta tell you though that this is a biotch to do in a driveway solo, but it IS possible. The hardest part was getting the front differential back in by myself and on my back. TIP: when re-installing the differential, make sure the power steering rack is unmounted from the chassis (the 4 big bolts). I kept the upper passenger side bolt partially threaded, but loose so-as to not allow the steering rack to move more than I wanted it to and make it easier to get the other 3 mounting bolts back in after the differential was back in place. This is not a difficult job, but it is physically demanding. The reward was in the 1 hour test drive and no more dinging oil pressure doom of death messages or bonging sounds inside the cabin. What a relief.
TinMan Garage , thanks man 👍. Glad it was helpful. Kudos for doing that job without a cheap harbor freight transmission jack at a minimum...and by yourself too !!! That front diff is a bear to get in there for sure even with something to lift it with. Good tip on leaving the rack loose so it would be out if the way of the driver side end a bit 👍. It’s a bit of a job, but doesn’t cost much to do the oring first just to see if that was the problem vs. all of the other more costly things that might be dropping the oil pressure (pump, worn bearings, cams, etc.). My motor didn’t sound bad...just had extremely low oil pressure so I too started with the oring and it fixed mine as well. These 6.2L’s seem a bit more robust than the internet makes them out to be...seems GM just went cheap on the gasket material for most every seal. After doing the front main, oil pan gasket, rear main, the valve cover gaskets, and this little oring, mine is leak free and purring like a kitten again. Thanks for the comment, it should help others wondering if it can be done without a lift 👍. All the best, Steve
@@illustr8phee100 I used one standard floor jack and one bottle jack (that's what I had handy in my garage). I put the truck on jack stands in the front so my hydraulic jacks were available for use underneath. In retrospect, I'm thinking that MAYBE I could have disconnected the engine/trans mounts to lift the motor assembly for better clearance without removing the diff, but I'll tell ya, the oil pan is a little tough to drop no matter what with the engine in the vehicle. Mine was/is still a 09 Escalade 6.2 L9H. I'm not gonna lie, it was a lot of work in the conditions I as working in.
Man thank you. For taking the time to film and show the steps. I am right now about to put it all back together and I’m a back yard sometime mechanic. Really helped!
👍. Yep, the design is not so good for how they clamp the oring to seal it…it’s a shame too as it makes people think something major is wrong causing low oil pressure when it’s just this $2 oring. No telling how many motors have been rebuilt thinking that there was major top or bottom end wear. Mine wasn’t burning oil or had any top end noise…just the low oil pressure. $400 sounds very reasonable for the work indeed 👍. All the best ! Steve
Thanks man ! Yep, it’s a shame that they didn’t put a better oring in there or make the design a bit different. With only one bolt holding the pick up tube where the oring is, It looks like everyone of these motors will eventually have this problem. It is for sure a ton of work just to replace an oring :( , but mine is still chugging along with really good oil pressure ever since it was replaced 👍. All the best ! Steve
Thanks ! Yep, nothing seems to be very easy to get to on these the way it’s all crammed together. If you have one of these Escalades, just wait till you have to change the driver’s side headlight bulb (there’s another video on the channel for that as well). It takes a good hour just to get to the bulb since so much has to be removed to get access to the back of the headlight module lol. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve.
@@johnfuentez2621 That's not bad I was just quoted $1000 or $800 just for labor at a regular mechanic shop. Imma call the Stealership and see if they can match or beat it.
Yep, definitely took the oil bubbles away that were on the dipstick. Mines got right at 200k miles on it so I still have some slight tapping up in the heads till it warms up, but it been doing that since I got it with about 100k miles and hasn’t gotten any worse. I guess that big old 6.2L is gonna make a little noise up top lol.
Hello i read a lot about what happened on this engine when the p0011 code shows up and after many and many research i found your video. I plan to do the job on my 2007 escalade but before I'm gonna check the oil pressure like you did. I don't want to believe it's the camshaft bearing because my escalade has only 104000 miles. Anyway thank you very much for you very helpful video
Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. Yep, I would definitely check the oil pressure with the scanner to be sure it’s reading low enough to cause an issue. I’ve never had another issue with oil pressure warnings after replacing the pickup tube oring and I’m just shy of 200k miles now. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hello wondering if your p0011 code got fixed with the pick up tube o ring? Just replaced my vvt actuator, the magnet and cam position sensor but still got same code. Just got around looking at live data and I got 13 psi at idle.
Hey 👋 i didn't have time to start the job. But for me 13psi at idle when hot is very low but it seems that on this engine 15psi is good. Anyway i received my o ring and i will do the job in summer. I will tell you. I checked the pressure and got 21psi when hot and 45 psi when cold. I presume it's ok for my concern but a good idea will be to measure and log the pressure for a while to be sure there is not a lack of pressure sometimes. And i prefer to change the esiest parts first if i can say easy 😂
Kenny, thanks man ! Hopefully the video will help 👍. Just be ready for that heavy front diff if you don’t have a transmission jack or something. Another subscriber gave a tip to drop the steering rack down before dropping the diff out, but leave one bolt holding it loosely on the passenger side to give a bit more room for it to clear the oil pan on the drivers side when it comes down. Might be worth while to check to see as getting the diff back in was by far the worst part for me. All the best ! Steve
God bless you Steve's DIYs. for all your patience. thankyou for your video. I'm looking for videos like this one for my 06 AWD suburban. the gasket leaks a lot { I'm SUBSCRIBED }
Hey man ! It is for sure a ton of work just to fix a cheap o-ring with a poorly designed pipe attachment. If they would have used two bolts and a nice o-ring recess it would probably never cause an issue. No telling how many of these motors has suffered from this which eventually lead to oil pressure problems taking out cams, bearings, and other things. Since the models like mine don’t have an oil pressure gage on the dash, there’s no way to notice it until the pressure gets so low that it trips the emergency “shut off engine” notification. Glad the video helped...all the best ! Steve
Good to know 👍. It looked like it was going to be in the way so I took it out. As much fun as looked to get the front diff back up into the vehicle, I figured I would need all of the room I could get, lol. All the best ! Steve
Thanks ! Lol, yep if I hadn’t had gotten such a good deal on the Escalade I would have been really frustrated to have to do all of this work, but I knew about all of the leaks when I bought it. Having to fix all of the leaks and bad gaskets was negotiated into the deal, lol. All the best ! Steve.
Hello, for mine, I believe it would have been impossible to remove the oil pan with the front differential in place unless the motor was lifted up off of the motor mounts....there was just too much in the way. Mine is a 2008 AWD model though so others may be different. All the best ! Steve
You must drop the diff. It's really not too bad. 4 bolts that mount it and the cvs off the sides and the front shaft removal. Drain it first too. Make sure both drain and fill plugs aren't seized. I was able to cary the thing out on my back. I didn't need a jack, but have some stands available so it doesn't just drop on ya.
Just remove the 12 bolts to the cv axles and the 4 bolts to the cross member. Also remove the 4 u joint bolts and 4 diff mount bolts... not too bad. Diff was lighter than i imagined, so it's not impossible, just adds another 30min.
Jesus Valentin , did you have to raise the motor up ant to do this? It did not appear that was any room to clear the front diff as the oil pickup tube goes to the front inside the oil pan and the transmission won’t let it move backwards. Just curious...Is yours an AWD drive train as well?
Yes! And removing crossmember and, sway bar if I’m not mistaking. There’s many ways to go about. I just thought it was easier than removing a bunch of other stuff unless you really had to.
Thanks man 👍. Yep, that fix was a bit of work, but the old girl is still running strong and no oil pressure issues after replacing the leaking pickup tube oring in the video a few years ago. No telling how many of these motors have been torn apart for low oil pressure issues by mechanics thinking that the normally slightly noisy cams on these are worn out…when all it might have been was this silly little oring. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve. Pick up tube is removed. O-ring is not too bad. You changed yours but was it worned ?. Mine looks like yours but hard to say it is good to replace.
Hey again, my oring looked fine as well when I removed it if I remember right (not torn or anything), but I think it just was no longer sealing as the oil had soaked into it and made the rubber harden up. Since you have the oil pan off anyway, look around in the bottom of the pan to see if you have and metal glitter from the cams or bearings as well just to see. I didn’t have any metal particles in my oil pan so I was pretty sure it was just the hardened up oring not sealing…which turned out to be the case for mine
@labalade_7791 👍. Sounds like that was the problem. It’s definitely a lot of work for a $2 oring, but no more low oil pressure gongs makes it worth it for sure. All the best ! Steve
Hey man ! Yep, it’s a good time to do the rear main with the oil payoff for sure as it makes centering the main seal much easier 👍. Unfortunately it takes removing the transmission to do the rear main (I also showed doing this on the channel) and that is a much harder job that a lot f folks want to tackle as a DIY. Thanks and all the best ! Steve
M Haskins , thanks man 👍. I got some thumbs down on the one that just has the steps to do so I was guessing folks didn’t like that there was no detail and made it look too easy. It’s not too bad of a job to do, but did take several muscles that I apparently don’t normally use very often (especially the diff removal) 🤣🤣. I did look back on the videos, and it might be possible to wiggle the oil pan out without fully removing the front diff, but it looks like it would still have to be tilted down quite a bit so for me I would probably just get it out of the way since I had it down that far since I have the big transmission jack anyway. If I didn’t have a jack (or had to do it with my original cheap HF scissor jack), I’d probably be giving it a try by strapping it up in there on angle and not fully taking it out and just deal with working around it to get the oil pan bolts off, lol. Thanks for the comments 👍...all the best, Steve
Hello, not sure if they make one for this motor, but it probably wouldn’t hurt it to get an upgraded oil pump once the mileage is pretty high and the motor is worn. I’m at almost 200k miles on mine though and seems to still be going strong on oil pressure once I fixed the oring on the pickup tube. I’m running 10w-30 in the winter and 10W-40 in the summer that helps some as well
@Ctrnr1995 I haven’t looked around up top on the Escalade, but for other motors I’ve worked on, sometimes oil around the intake manifold seal comes from where the oil mist is pulled up through the crank case vent valves and seeps through the manifold seal after many years.
Yep, the gaskets they used on these don’t seem to be the best quality anyway...extra pressure inside the motor will for sure make them leak 👍. I was pushing about 180k miles on mine, so I think mine had just reached the end of their life.
Hello, to remove just the oil pan, none of the horizontal bolts in the bell housing needed to be removed if I remember correctly. There were two bolts that were slightly hidden under some brackets just beside the bell housing on the left and right of the motor at the back that had to be removed though…I believe they are shown in the video. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Steve, great video... I found it as the oil pressure on my 2008 Yukon XL Denali (6.2L) had lower oil pressure at idle yesterday. Since the last video is you replacing the rear main seal I do not see a wrap up or conclusions. What was the net result to your oil pressure after changing the oil pick-up tube o-ring? I know the rear main seal was complete by the reassembly of both. Ed
Hey man ! Thanks...glad the videos helped some 👍. Actually, at the last 40 seconds of this video (at the 25 minute time stamp) I showed the final results of changing the oring out on the scanner where it brought my pressure back up into the 40’s at idle. I added the results to the end of this video since I wasn’t sure if folks would find it at the end of the other videos where I continued on with the work. For mine, it must have been the oring as this was the only internal seal I changed that related to oil pressure (the rest were just external gaskets and seals leaking). Thanks again and All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I went back and saw the summary. I had left as you were wrapping up with the car on the lift awaiting the rear main seal job. Mine is @ 22-23 at idle. Looks like spec is a min of 24 psi @ 1,000 rpm. I am fine once I come up to 1,000 rpm as I go to ~38. Definitely need to watch.
@@edmamon4655 , 👍. Yep, mine was really low at idle and took quite a while to build pressure so it was really bad. The tale tell sign for me was the tiny air bubbles on the dipstick after I let it warm up and quickly pulled the dipstick. Definitely something to watch on these it seems...I was fortunate that I caught mine in time so there was no cam damage.
Lol, yep, most all my neighbors like my garage as well 🤣. I got the car lift because I’m getting too old to be crawling around on the cold concrete anymore working on this stuff, lol. All the best ! Steve
Steve, can you confirm that your Slade has the L92 engine option like my '08 Yukon XL Denali does? A friend of mine pointed me to the screen under the OPSU to try first. I learned that was referred to as the AFM oil screen at one source and my AlldataDIY subscriptions shows that w/o AFM (L92 does not have AFM) the LS does not have this screen that can affect a weak reading.
Hey man ! Yes, mine has the L92 engine 👍. Here’s a pic of the RPO codes for it for reference facebook.com/109400450606405/posts/354727846073663/?d=n . All the best ! Steve
Yep, it’s definitely not the most fun thing to do for sure since that front pumpkin (differential) has to come out on the AWD version. It’s pretty straight forward though and I’d definitely replace the oring for the oil pickup tube while there even if there’s no signs of low oil pressure on yours.
Hey again ! I would definitely replace the oring for the oil pickup tube while I had the oil pan off as it’s easy to get to when the pan is removed and seems to be a common failure. When I had mine apart, I didn’t see anything else that looked like it should be replaced inside the motor, but I did notice that my front passenger side axle seal was leaking, so while I had the front differential out, I replaced the axle shaft seal. There’s another video on the channel showing me replacing it as well in the Escalade DIY playlist on the channel if that’s leaking on yours as well.
Great video! I have a question to any one who has taken the front differential out of these GM's. My Differential mounting brackets that bolted to the frame seemed to be loose and wiggled after i dropped the diff. Is that normal or did i need to change the bushings that are on those mounts?
mike cochrane , thanks man 👍. For mine, I don’t remember anything being very precise on the mounting of the front diff. I think since the input shaft as well as the two output shafts all have rotary pivot joints, the alignment of the diff as it mounts to the frame is not too critical. Seemed like the bracket that is on the passenger side that bolts it up to the frame was even slotted on mine. Maybe others that have done the job can provide some input as well.
Thanks man ! I got mine off the internet from Amazon I think, but I believe they are sold by several sites. The one I got for the GM models is the iCarsoft i900….seems like it was about $100 usd.
Hello Steve my name is Joe I saw your video on the oil pickup tube Oring..and was wondering how long were you able to drive your truck for after the job was done? Thanks
Hey man ! I actually still have the Escalade and have put probably 30k miles one it after replacing the pick-up tube oring (that was about 3 years ago I’d say). After changing the oring, it has never had another issue with low oil pressure and the motor is still running great. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Thanks man...easy to tell I’m from the south as my accent always gives me away, lol ! Yep, it’s been over two years since I replaced to oring and it has never given me the low oil pressure warning again since the oring replacement 👍. Before the oring replacement it had flashed the warning up several times (which is what had me worried). I didn’t change the pressure sensor either (sometimes that is the issue I’ve heard) so the only change was the oring that fixed it. The motor sounded fine even with the low oil warning and still sounds perfect so I think I was fortunate to have caught it in time as it seems no motor damage was done. The little bubbles on the dipstick seemed to be a good indication that air was getting in (the oring is above the oil level in the pan) which is what made me really suspect the oring was bad. Thanks again and all the best !
@@StevesDIYs awesome on starting on the wife’s 2011 Escalade in the morning. It’s a 2wd. The pan gasket leaking so I’ll do the o-ring while I’m there. Did the rear main several months ago. Hope it hasn’t been as hot in Nashville as it is here in Alabama. Take Care!
Hey again, I believe the GM oring part number is 12584922. It is the oring used on many of the GM LS motors like the 6.0 liter and the 6.2. If you Google your vehicle year make and model and then add “oil pickup tube oring” it should show the oring part as it is very common that i5 has to be replaced. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hello, I used a regular strap type oil filter wrench 👍. Mine came off pretty easy as it wasn’t tightening down super hard by the previous owner it seems.
Thanks man 👍. Here’s a link to a picture of the one I got (TH-cam doesn’t allow pictures in the comments). Not too expensive for the amount of money I’ve saved by doing my own repairs vs. having to take the vehicles to a shop. I’ve had it for several years now and it’s never had an issue. facebook.com/109400450606405/posts/327122595500855/?d=n . All the best ! Steve
Hey, my 07 GMC Yukon with 6.2L V8 has low oil pressure at idle, right above the red. When I start driving off or give it gas it goes to 30ish PSI. I have a “knock” or “tap” too. Will the o-ring take care of this...?
Hello, those were the symptoms I was having as well (low oil pressure at idle and a slight tapping). I also had an exhaust manifold leak that sounded like a knock, but would go away once tithe motor warmed up that was unrelated but had me worried until I figured out it wasn’t actually knocking. For the low oil pressure on mine, the oring definitely fixed the problem as I no longer have low oil warnings (mine doesn’t have a pressure gage...just a warning popped up), but from reading up on the issue, it could look be other things like a bad oil sending sensor, bad pump, or even worn out cams. Those required a lot more work to check or replace if found bad so I started with the oring since it was the easiest and seems to be a very common issue. Fortunately it was the issue with mine 👍. Hope this helps...all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Did the repair yesterday along with oil pan gasket. It did not solve the low oil pressure or the tapping :( I did notice a small leak by the oil filter where there are 2 bolts. There’s a small gasket there. Do you think that could be the culprit too? I’m going to go ahead and have my oil sensor and oil sensor screen done as well. Think those will help?
@@MrChampion1002 , hey man ! Too bad it wasn’t the issue. I don’t think a leak near the filter would cause low oil pressure, but not 100% sure. The oil pickup tube oring allows the motor to suck air which is why it sometimes is the problem. Yep, next stop would be the sender and the screen (if it has one as some years didn’t). If not that, then I would suspect something in the internals are worn out. Did you happen to keep the oil filter when you did the work? You can cut it open and look for shiny particles to maybe see if something is wearing.
Hello, mine is the iCarsoft i900 scanner for the GM vehicles (it’s the one I used in the video). It does quite a bit for scanning as well as reading things like oil pressure and sensor readings. Seems like it was about $100 usd or so. All the best ! Steve
No matter how far I dig into this icarsoft i900 I can't find oil pressure reading, I can click on oil pressure switch but it just tells me its ok, can you help?
Hello, it’s possible as mine was also displaying that the oil pressure was low. Low oil pressure can be caused by several different issues, but unfortunately it’s very hard to tell what the actual issue is without replacing the components. My motor was not making any unusual noises or burning any oil so it was a good indication that something was wrong with the oil supply to the pump or the actual pump.
Hey man ! You must know your cars to spot that it’s an M6 👍. It’s my “mid-life crisis” car lol...the only option I wanted but it didn’t have was a three pedal manual, but it does have the manual SMG in it vs. an automatic trans so I still get to make it shift manually and feel the clutches engage, lol. All the best ! Steve
Hey man ! It is possible that the lifters would tic if the oil pressure is getting low. Another thing might be like mine that also had an exhaust leak (the exhaust manifold bolts break on these motors frequently) that sounded a lot like a valve tapping…it would go away after the motor warmed up, but it was because the exhaust manifold would expand and seal back up. Before taking it all apart, I would buy a scanner and check the oil pressure first if it was me just to makes sure the tapping might be coming from low oil pressure. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Ranjit , hello...not sure which bolt you are referring to...seems there were two black plastic covers back there that had to come off but I don’t remember any of them being tough to get to though. If you want to, you can snap a pic of it and the area and and email it to me at stevesdiys@gmail.com ,Steve
Ranjit , you can also slow the video down to .25x speed up in the upper right of the TH-cam screen to see the steps a bit better...I think I videoed all of the steps...just did high speed through the bolt removal part.
Hey man ! If it’s idling rough, but not giving any codes, I’d start with cleaning the throttle body as bigdawglifters mentioned as this doesn’t typically throw codes either when they are dirty. Also, I’ve not had it happen on this vehicle, but several others I’ve worked on had a sticky idle air control valve that would cause a rough idle periodically and one had a dry rotted vacuum line to the intake that was causing the problem.
@@StevesDIYs as for codes check engine comes on and off so definitely going to check that . But ima start with the throttle and then the air valve hopefully it fixes the issue i still got to fix the infamous fuel pump level sensor thanks for the info tho appreciate it
Hello, have you confirmed that your oil pressure is low (with a scanner that can read the live oil pressure)? I believe the Variable Valve Timing uses oil pressure to operate so if your oil pressure is very low, it can trip this cam code as well. If it is low, I’d start by addressing that issue first and then see if it takes care of the cam timing. If you’re still getting the code with good oil pressure, I would then suspect something up top on the motor. Hope this helps...All the best ! Steve
Hey man ! Doing the rear main seal was for sure no fun…even with the car lift, but once they are leaking bad enough there’s not much else that can be done except replace it. Most local shops that work on full sized trucks could easily do this job as it didn’t require any special OE tools and the power train is the same as a pick-up truck for the most part. It sure would be nice to have a complete shop vs. just my home shop to work on cars…maybe one day I’ll have one after retiring from my full time job.
@@StevesDIYs Steve quick question, on my Escalade I have a milky oil cap,but my oil dipstick just have oil on it and my antifreeze is at normal level and it dont run hot or anything, so do that mean I have a blown head gasket?
@@Jacblack69 hey man ! Sometimes the milky condensation that collect under the cap is just from condensation where the motor gets hot and the outside air temp is cooler. I’d try wiping it clean then driving for a week or so and then check it again to see if it has gone away. I’m not sure on these motors, but some have a crank case vent valve that allows outside air in to the crankcase so it doesn’t pressurize as the pistons go up and down so it might pull moisture in from that. If your oil looks good and you are not loosing coolant, I’d say it’s fine 👍. A way to tell would be to do a coolant pressure leak down test. A local shop you trust could do that (the key word there is trust...shops tell people things just to get money to fix stuff I’ve found). If a coolant pressure leak down test shows pressure loss and there are no drips found, it might be a small leak in the head gasket.
Great video. Thank for sharing !!! I think I be having the same problem P0011 code Did you car was making any noise ? My car is making noise looks like it's coming from the oil pan but comes and goes . I took a video of the noise Looks like every time I drive in the highway for about 10 minutes the noise come th-cam.com/video/okAd5nOLQDo/w-d-xo.html Them if I go up the hill or drive in the city after 5 minutes the noise was gone th-cam.com/video/18yWOchznnE/w-d-xo.html My is a 2007 cadillac escalade You think your obd2 will work so I can see the oil pressure This is your right iCarsoft i900 ? Thank you very much for your help !!
Andre Desouza , thanks ! Mine wasn’t making much noise, but once or twice after idling for a long time it warned me the oil pressure was low and to shut the engine off. Yours is making a lot of noise, but at least it goes away so it may be oil pressure related. I think the P0011 code is for valve timing but that may relate to oil pressure as well. Yes the scanner I have is an icarsoft for the GM vehicles...it should work for the 2007 as well I would think. It is nice as it reads the oil pressure so you can see it fluctuate to indicate an issue. Hope this helps 👍. Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thank you very much for your response I'm planning to replace the o-ring this week and I hope will fix my problem And for sure I will buy the same scanner you have It's a shame Escalade 07 doesn't have oil pressure on dashboard :( Thank again !!!!
Andre Desouza , no problem 👍. Hope you get it fixed up and running good again. Yep, not sure why they didn’t give an option to see the oil pressure on these...sure would be nice to check it on the dash vs, having to buy a scanner. All the best ! Steve
Michael Wilson , hello. I don’t think it can since it’s all wheel drive all the time so there’s no way to stop the transfer case gears for this design. I believe it balances all four wheel’s speed by the transfer case gearing so if the front is free to spin, it won’t go anywhere. I could be wrong though as I didn’t really try it with the front disconnected to see.
@@StevesDIYs thank you I'm hearing alot of metal grinding when I'm driving and I think it's the front diff. I don't have the money to get it rebuilt. So I thought about removing it altogether. Thank you for the reply.
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Someone who knows what they are doing:
1) Marking the drive shaft u-joint, and drive shaft ends.
2) Putting the nut onto a bolt prior to tapping the bolt out.
3) Tire spoon as a pry bar - perfect tool for prying.
4) The classic box organizer for bolts.
Pay attention people, because doing things correctly is a dying art.
Peter Ulrich , thanks for the comment man 👍. I would have never guessed someone would have noticed that tire spoon I use...especially since it was only shown in the video for just a few seconds a couple of times. I suspect you too have been wrenching for many years as well to see all of those details that make doing a job so much easier and better in the long run. All the best to you sir ! Steve
The only thing I’d like to add to make this a perfect video would be if during the video he was calling out the sizes on everything.
@@c_mac7773 , thanks man 👍. That probably would help folks to make sure they have the tools ready to go to make the job a bit faster...I’ll keep that in mind for the next ones. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Yeah so for me it’s one of the most frustrating things to deal with while working on a car. Because I’m not a mechanic I’m pretty good with my eyes when it comes to something being square or level but apparently judging what size are not our boat is, it’s not my thing LOL.
This video was incredibly helpful. I just finished replacing my pickup tube o-ring using this video as a general guide. I gotta tell you though that this is a biotch to do in a driveway solo, but it IS possible. The hardest part was getting the front differential back in by myself and on my back. TIP: when re-installing the differential, make sure the power steering rack is unmounted from the chassis (the 4 big bolts). I kept the upper passenger side bolt partially threaded, but loose so-as to not allow the steering rack to move more than I wanted it to and make it easier to get the other 3 mounting bolts back in after the differential was back in place. This is not a difficult job, but it is physically demanding. The reward was in the 1 hour test drive and no more dinging oil pressure doom of death messages or bonging sounds inside the cabin. What a relief.
TinMan Garage , thanks man 👍. Glad it was helpful. Kudos for doing that job without a cheap harbor freight transmission jack at a minimum...and by yourself too !!! That front diff is a bear to get in there for sure even with something to lift it with. Good tip on leaving the rack loose so it would be out if the way of the driver side end a bit 👍. It’s a bit of a job, but doesn’t cost much to do the oring first just to see if that was the problem vs. all of the other more costly things that might be dropping the oil pressure (pump, worn bearings, cams, etc.). My motor didn’t sound bad...just had extremely low oil pressure so I too started with the oring and it fixed mine as well. These 6.2L’s seem a bit more robust than the internet makes them out to be...seems GM just went cheap on the gasket material for most every seal. After doing the front main, oil pan gasket, rear main, the valve cover gaskets, and this little oring, mine is leak free and purring like a kitten again. Thanks for the comment, it should help others wondering if it can be done without a lift 👍. All the best, Steve
Escalade? how many jacks?.. thinking about doing mines..
@@illustr8phee100 I used one standard floor jack and one bottle jack (that's what I had handy in my garage). I put the truck on jack stands in the front so my hydraulic jacks were available for use underneath. In retrospect, I'm thinking that MAYBE I could have disconnected the engine/trans mounts to lift the motor assembly for better clearance without removing the diff, but I'll tell ya, the oil pan is a little tough to drop no matter what with the engine in the vehicle. Mine was/is still a 09 Escalade 6.2 L9H. I'm not gonna lie, it was a lot of work in the conditions I as working in.
Man thank you. For taking the time to film and show the steps. I am right now about to put it all back together and I’m a back yard sometime mechanic. Really helped!
Ja Ac , thanks man, glad it helped some 👍.
My oil pressure at idle went from 20 psi to 45 after replacing this o ring. Mechanic charged $400 labor. Worth it.
👍. Yep, the design is not so good for how they clamp the oring to seal it…it’s a shame too as it makes people think something major is wrong causing low oil pressure when it’s just this $2 oring. No telling how many motors have been rebuilt thinking that there was major top or bottom end wear. Mine wasn’t burning oil or had any top end noise…just the low oil pressure. $400 sounds very reasonable for the work indeed 👍. All the best ! Steve
Did mine this weekend. Had a split o-ring in the 2008. Took me 7 hours on my garage floor. Thanks for the video.
Thanks man ! Yep, it’s a shame that they didn’t put a better oring in there or make the design a bit different. With only one bolt holding the pick up tube where the oring is, It looks like everyone of these motors will eventually have this problem. It is for sure a ton of work just to replace an oring :( , but mine is still chugging along with really good oil pressure ever since it was replaced 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hey : Job started today ! oil pan removed. Next step pickup tube.
:)
Nice ! Sounds like you got the hardest part behind you for sure 👍. All the best ! Steve
Steve, you've got the patience of Job ! A great tutorial - thanks for posting!
Thanks ! Yep, nothing seems to be very easy to get to on these the way it’s all crammed together. If you have one of these Escalades, just wait till you have to change the driver’s side headlight bulb (there’s another video on the channel for that as well). It takes a good hour just to get to the bulb since so much has to be removed to get access to the back of the headlight module lol. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve.
After seeing this I don’t mind paying $800.00 for the dealership to do it. Great video!
Thanks man 👍. Yep, it’s a bit of work for sure...even with a car lift, lol. All the best ! Steve
I agree. But is that the price the dealer quoted you for? If so I am taking mine to the dealer
Did they change the oil pan gasket also or just the O-ring???
@@KJ-ep9cw the complete oil pan gasket
@@johnfuentez2621 That's not bad I was just quoted $1000 or $800 just for labor at a regular mechanic shop. Imma call the Stealership and see if they can match or beat it.
Besides fixing oil pressure ,in a backhand way it fix a noisy lifter and had oil bubbles also.
Yep, definitely took the oil bubbles away that were on the dipstick. Mines got right at 200k miles on it so I still have some slight tapping up in the heads till it warms up, but it been doing that since I got it with about 100k miles and hasn’t gotten any worse. I guess that big old 6.2L is gonna make a little noise up top lol.
Hello i read a lot about what happened on this engine when the p0011 code shows up and after many and many research i found your video. I plan to do the job on my 2007 escalade but before I'm gonna check the oil pressure like you did. I don't want to believe it's the camshaft bearing because my escalade has only 104000 miles. Anyway thank you very much for you very helpful video
Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. Yep, I would definitely check the oil pressure with the scanner to be sure it’s reading low enough to cause an issue. I’ve never had another issue with oil pressure warnings after replacing the pickup tube oring and I’m just shy of 200k miles now. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hello wondering if your p0011 code got fixed with the pick up tube o ring? Just replaced my vvt actuator, the magnet and cam position sensor but still got same code. Just got around looking at live data and I got 13 psi at idle.
Hey 👋 i didn't have time to start the job. But for me 13psi at idle when hot is very low but it seems that on this engine 15psi is good. Anyway i received my o ring and i will do the job in summer. I will tell you. I checked the pressure and got 21psi when hot and 45 psi when cold. I presume it's ok for my concern but a good idea will be to measure and log the pressure for a while to be sure there is not a lack of pressure sometimes. And i prefer to change the esiest parts first if i can say easy 😂
Thank you. I'm looking to change the vvt solenoid tomorrow, apparently need to take down the oil pan. so this helped
Kenny, thanks man ! Hopefully the video will help 👍. Just be ready for that heavy front diff if you don’t have a transmission jack or something. Another subscriber gave a tip to drop the steering rack down before dropping the diff out, but leave one bolt holding it loosely on the passenger side to give a bit more room for it to clear the oil pan on the drivers side when it comes down. Might be worth while to check to see as getting the diff back in was by far the worst part for me. All the best ! Steve
God bless you Steve's DIYs. for all your patience. thankyou for your video. I'm looking for videos like this one for my 06 AWD suburban. the gasket leaks a lot { I'm SUBSCRIBED }
Hey man ! Thanks for subscribing and glad the videos are helpful 👍. All the best ! Steve
lotta work to replace a $2 part! thanks for the video
Hey man ! It is for sure a ton of work just to fix a cheap o-ring with a poorly designed pipe attachment. If they would have used two bolts and a nice o-ring recess it would probably never cause an issue. No telling how many of these motors has suffered from this which eventually lead to oil pressure problems taking out cams, bearings, and other things. Since the models like mine don’t have an oil pressure gage on the dash, there’s no way to notice it until the pressure gets so low that it trips the emergency “shut off engine” notification. Glad the video helped...all the best ! Steve
Removing the steering rack bolts is nice for a little extra room but the pan can be removed without touching the rack
Good to know 👍. It looked like it was going to be in the way so I took it out. As much fun as looked to get the front diff back up into the vehicle, I figured I would need all of the room I could get, lol. All the best ! Steve
All that for something thats less than a dollar, I'll just sell mine, screw all that lol...thanks for the video, very informative!!
Thanks ! Lol, yep if I hadn’t had gotten such a good deal on the Escalade I would have been really frustrated to have to do all of this work, but I knew about all of the leaks when I bought it. Having to fix all of the leaks and bad gaskets was negotiated into the deal, lol. All the best ! Steve.
Can't clear front differential with Oil pan removal. Do I really need to remove the differential?
Hello, for mine, I believe it would have been impossible to remove the oil pan with the front differential in place unless the motor was lifted up off of the motor mounts....there was just too much in the way. Mine is a 2008 AWD model though so others may be different. All the best ! Steve
You must drop the diff. It's really not too bad. 4 bolts that mount it and the cvs off the sides and the front shaft removal. Drain it first too. Make sure both drain and fill plugs aren't seized. I was able to cary the thing out on my back. I didn't need a jack, but have some stands available so it doesn't just drop on ya.
Yes
Just remove the 12 bolts to the cv axles and the 4 bolts to the cross member. Also remove the 4 u joint bolts and 4 diff mount bolts... not too bad. Diff was lighter than i imagined, so it's not impossible, just adds another 30min.
It’s not required to remove the front diff. You can wiggle the pan out after unbolting.
Jesus Valentin , did you have to raise the motor up ant to do this? It did not appear that was any room to clear the front diff as the oil pickup tube goes to the front inside the oil pan and the transmission won’t let it move backwards. Just curious...Is yours an AWD drive train as well?
Yes! And removing crossmember and, sway bar if I’m not mistaking. There’s many ways to go about. I just thought it was easier than removing a bunch of other stuff unless you really had to.
I like the way he explained good technique you that best
Thanks again ! Steve
Damn fine video, thanks Steve, you’re the man!
Thanks man 👍. Yep, that fix was a bit of work, but the old girl is still running strong and no oil pressure issues after replacing the leaking pickup tube oring in the video a few years ago. No telling how many of these motors have been torn apart for low oil pressure issues by mechanics thinking that the normally slightly noisy cams on these are worn out…when all it might have been was this silly little oring. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve. Pick up tube is removed. O-ring is not too bad. You changed yours but was it worned ?. Mine looks like yours but hard to say it is good to replace.
Hey again, my oring looked fine as well when I removed it if I remember right (not torn or anything), but I think it just was no longer sealing as the oil had soaked into it and made the rubber harden up.
Since you have the oil pan off anyway, look around in the bottom of the pan to see if you have and metal glitter from the cams or bearings as well just to see. I didn’t have any metal particles in my oil pan so I was pretty sure it was just the hardened up oring not sealing…which turned out to be the case for mine
Thank you steve i will check that 👍
Job is done ! oil pan was clean oil pressure when cold 49psi .........
Ok so pressure at cold 49psi after 30 mn 29psi at 1500rpm at hot 45psi
Is that sounds good to you ?
@labalade_7791 👍. Sounds like that was the problem. It’s definitely a lot of work for a $2 oring, but no more low oil pressure gongs makes it worth it for sure. All the best ! Steve
Not a Cadillac owner but appreciate while pan is off replace rear oil seal.
Hey man ! Yep, it’s a good time to do the rear main with the oil payoff for sure as it makes centering the main seal much easier 👍. Unfortunately it takes removing the transmission to do the rear main (I also showed doing this on the channel) and that is a much harder job that a lot f folks want to tackle as a DIY. Thanks and all the best ! Steve
What a great detailed video. Debating on doing it myself or taking it to gm.
M Haskins , thanks man 👍. I got some thumbs down on the one that just has the steps to do so I was guessing folks didn’t like that there was no detail and made it look too easy. It’s not too bad of a job to do, but did take several muscles that I apparently don’t normally use very often (especially the diff removal) 🤣🤣. I did look back on the videos, and it might be possible to wiggle the oil pan out without fully removing the front diff, but it looks like it would still have to be tilted down quite a bit so for me I would probably just get it out of the way since I had it down that far since I have the big transmission jack anyway. If I didn’t have a jack (or had to do it with my original cheap HF scissor jack), I’d probably be giving it a try by strapping it up in there on angle and not fully taking it out and just deal with working around it to get the oil pan bolts off, lol. Thanks for the comments 👍...all the best, Steve
Steve’s DIYs that’s crazy, i could literally do the project by watching your video. Thanks for taking the time to film it.
M Haskins did u end up doing it? I have one bolt I can’t get to the one where it’s half hidden by the bell housing.
Ranjit sorry I ended up taking it to gm.
Would it be smart to add a high pressure oil pump to take care of low pressure?
Hello, not sure if they make one for this motor, but it probably wouldn’t hurt it to get an upgraded oil pump once the mileage is pretty high and the motor is worn. I’m at almost 200k miles on mine though and seems to still be going strong on oil pressure once I fixed the oring on the pickup tube. I’m running 10w-30 in the winter and 10W-40 in the summer that helps some as well
@StevesDIYs question: I've got oil residue under intake manifold. Where would it be coming from? Just changed valve cover gaskets.
@Ctrnr1995 I haven’t looked around up top on the Escalade, but for other motors I’ve worked on, sometimes oil around the intake manifold seal comes from where the oil mist is pulled up through the crank case vent valves and seeps through the manifold seal after many years.
I had the same issue - failed PCV valve creating overpressure and blowing all my seals
Yep, the gaskets they used on these don’t seem to be the best quality anyway...extra pressure inside the motor will for sure make them leak 👍. I was pushing about 180k miles on mine, so I think mine had just reached the end of their life.
Is very good mechanic good job 😊
Thanks 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hello, did you had to remove any bolts from the transmission bell housing?
Hello, to remove just the oil pan, none of the horizontal bolts in the bell housing needed to be removed if I remember correctly. There were two bolts that were slightly hidden under some brackets just beside the bell housing on the left and right of the motor at the back that had to be removed though…I believe they are shown in the video. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Steve, great video... I found it as the oil pressure on my 2008 Yukon XL Denali (6.2L) had lower oil pressure at idle yesterday. Since the last video is you replacing the rear main seal I do not see a wrap up or conclusions. What was the net result to your oil pressure after changing the oil pick-up tube o-ring? I know the rear main seal was complete by the reassembly of both. Ed
Hey man ! Thanks...glad the videos helped some 👍. Actually, at the last 40 seconds of this video (at the 25 minute time stamp) I showed the final results of changing the oring out on the scanner where it brought my pressure back up into the 40’s at idle. I added the results to the end of this video since I wasn’t sure if folks would find it at the end of the other videos where I continued on with the work. For mine, it must have been the oring as this was the only internal seal I changed that related to oil pressure (the rest were just external gaskets and seals leaking). Thanks again and All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs I went back and saw the summary. I had left as you were wrapping up with the car on the lift awaiting the rear main seal job. Mine is @ 22-23 at idle. Looks like spec is a min of 24 psi @ 1,000 rpm. I am fine once I come up to 1,000 rpm as I go to ~38. Definitely need to watch.
@@edmamon4655 , 👍. Yep, mine was really low at idle and took quite a while to build pressure so it was really bad. The tale tell sign for me was the tiny air bubbles on the dipstick after I let it warm up and quickly pulled the dipstick. Definitely something to watch on these it seems...I was fortunate that I caught mine in time so there was no cam damage.
Why do guys like you never live In My neighborhood!!I wish you was my neighbor 😢😢
Lol, yep, most all my neighbors like my garage as well 🤣. I got the car lift because I’m getting too old to be crawling around on the cold concrete anymore working on this stuff, lol. All the best ! Steve
Steve, can you confirm that your Slade has the L92 engine option like my '08 Yukon XL Denali does? A friend of mine pointed me to the screen under the OPSU to try first. I learned that was referred to as the AFM oil screen at one source and my AlldataDIY subscriptions shows that w/o AFM (L92 does not have AFM) the LS does not have this screen that can affect a weak reading.
Hey man ! Yes, mine has the L92 engine 👍. Here’s a pic of the RPO codes for it for reference facebook.com/109400450606405/posts/354727846073663/?d=n . All the best ! Steve
Not looking forward to this PITA project. But my pan gasket is leaking like crazy.
Yep, it’s definitely not the most fun thing to do for sure since that front pumpkin (differential) has to come out on the AWD version. It’s pretty straight forward though and I’d definitely replace the oring for the oil pickup tube while there even if there’s no signs of low oil pressure on yours.
If I replace the gasket is more parts can I change it before putting it back like your Oil pickup tube O ring?. thankyou.
Hey again ! I would definitely replace the oring for the oil pickup tube while I had the oil pan off as it’s easy to get to when the pan is removed and seems to be a common failure. When I had mine apart, I didn’t see anything else that looked like it should be replaced inside the motor, but I did notice that my front passenger side axle seal was leaking, so while I had the front differential out, I replaced the axle shaft seal. There’s another video on the channel showing me replacing it as well in the Escalade DIY playlist on the channel if that’s leaking on yours as well.
Great video! I have a question to any one who has taken the front differential out of these GM's. My Differential mounting brackets that bolted to the frame seemed to be loose and wiggled after i dropped the diff. Is that normal or did i need to change the bushings that are on those mounts?
mike cochrane , thanks man 👍. For mine, I don’t remember anything being very precise on the mounting of the front diff. I think since the input shaft as well as the two output shafts all have rotary pivot joints, the alignment of the diff as it mounts to the frame is not too critical. Seemed like the bracket that is on the passenger side that bolts it up to the frame was even slotted on mine. Maybe others that have done the job can provide some input as well.
@@StevesDIYs thanks. I figured that since I noticed no vibration at highway speeds I must be good.
Hello great video brother, do you have a link for the carsoft programmer?
Thanks man ! I got mine off the internet from Amazon I think, but I believe they are sold by several sites. The one I got for the GM models is the iCarsoft i900….seems like it was about $100 usd.
Hello Steve my name is Joe I saw your video on the oil pickup tube Oring..and was wondering how long were you able to drive your truck for after the job was done? Thanks
Hey man ! I actually still have the Escalade and have put probably 30k miles one it after replacing the pick-up tube oring (that was about 3 years ago I’d say). After changing the oring, it has never had another issue with low oil pressure and the motor is still running great. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs nice...thank you for your time
Great video very detailed
Thanks and hopefully the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve
Great video from a fellow Southerner! Did the o-ring replacement raise the oil pressure?
Thanks man...easy to tell I’m from the south as my accent always gives me away, lol !
Yep, it’s been over two years since I replaced to oring and it has never given me the low oil pressure warning again since the oring replacement 👍. Before the oring replacement it had flashed the warning up several times (which is what had me worried). I didn’t change the pressure sensor either (sometimes that is the issue I’ve heard) so the only change was the oring that fixed it. The motor sounded fine even with the low oil warning and still sounds perfect so I think I was fortunate to have caught it in time as it seems no motor damage was done. The little bubbles on the dipstick seemed to be a good indication that air was getting in (the oring is above the oil level in the pan) which is what made me really suspect the oring was bad. Thanks again and all the best !
@@StevesDIYs awesome on starting on the wife’s 2011 Escalade in the morning. It’s a 2wd. The pan gasket leaking so I’ll do the o-ring while I’m there. Did the rear main several months ago. Hope it hasn’t been as hot in Nashville as it is here in Alabama. Take Care!
O-ring part number?
Hey again, I believe the GM oring part number is 12584922. It is the oring used on many of the GM LS motors like the 6.0 liter and the 6.2. If you Google your vehicle year make and model and then add “oil pickup tube oring” it should show the oring part as it is very common that i5 has to be replaced. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
@Steve'sDIYs what tool did you use to removal the oil filter.?I can't ever get my oil filter off.
Hello, I used a regular strap type oil filter wrench 👍. Mine came off pretty easy as it wasn’t tightening down super hard by the previous owner it seems.
Nice wok on this, just curious, which lift are you using in the home garage?
Thanks man 👍. Here’s a link to a picture of the one I got (TH-cam doesn’t allow pictures in the comments). Not too expensive for the amount of money I’ve saved by doing my own repairs vs. having to take the vehicles to a shop. I’ve had it for several years now and it’s never had an issue. facebook.com/109400450606405/posts/327122595500855/?d=n . All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs Thanks Steve, i was looking at that one. It sure beats laying on the floor.
@@renderingrocks for sure 👍.
Hey, my 07 GMC Yukon with 6.2L V8 has low oil pressure at idle, right above the red. When I start driving off or give it gas it goes to 30ish PSI. I have a “knock” or “tap” too. Will the o-ring take care of this...?
Hello, those were the symptoms I was having as well (low oil pressure at idle and a slight tapping). I also had an exhaust manifold leak that sounded like a knock, but would go away once tithe motor warmed up that was unrelated but had me worried until I figured out it wasn’t actually knocking. For the low oil pressure on mine, the oring definitely fixed the problem as I no longer have low oil warnings (mine doesn’t have a pressure gage...just a warning popped up), but from reading up on the issue, it could look be other things like a bad oil sending sensor, bad pump, or even worn out cams. Those required a lot more work to check or replace if found bad so I started with the oring since it was the easiest and seems to be a very common issue. Fortunately it was the issue with mine 👍. Hope this helps...all the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs appreciate it! You’re the best.
@@StevesDIYs Did the repair yesterday along with oil pan gasket. It did not solve the low oil pressure or the tapping :( I did notice a small leak by the oil filter where there are 2 bolts. There’s a small gasket there. Do you think that could be the culprit too? I’m going to go ahead and have my oil sensor and oil sensor screen done as well. Think those will help?
My cams could be the other issue, just plain worn out at this point. 167k miles
@@MrChampion1002 , hey man ! Too bad it wasn’t the issue. I don’t think a leak near the filter would cause low oil pressure, but not 100% sure. The oil pickup tube oring allows the motor to suck air which is why it sometimes is the problem. Yep, next stop would be the sender and the screen (if it has one as some years didn’t). If not that, then I would suspect something in the internals are worn out. Did you happen to keep the oil filter when you did the work? You can cut it open and look for shiny particles to maybe see if something is wearing.
What scan tool reads the oil pressure, I'm having issues 08 escalade esv and need to see the pressure
Hello, mine is the iCarsoft i900 scanner for the GM vehicles (it’s the one I used in the video). It does quite a bit for scanning as well as reading things like oil pressure and sensor readings. Seems like it was about $100 usd or so. All the best ! Steve
Youre great man, gonna order it now, thank you so much!!
@@Bigdawglifters no problem...glad to have been able to help 👍. Steve
No matter how far I dig into this icarsoft i900 I can't find oil pressure reading, I can click on oil pressure switch but it just tells me its ok, can you help?
I found it man, I had to select switch and sensor, thank you
Mine tells me low oil pressure. Could it be the same thing I need to do?
Hello, it’s possible as mine was also displaying that the oil pressure was low. Low oil pressure can be caused by several different issues, but unfortunately it’s very hard to tell what the actual issue is without replacing the components. My motor was not making any unusual noises or burning any oil so it was a good indication that something was wrong with the oil supply to the pump or the actual pump.
Great video
Robert Griffin , thanks man ! Hopefully it helps some 👍.
got the m6 in the background..... I see
Hey man ! You must know your cars to spot that it’s an M6 👍. It’s my “mid-life crisis” car lol...the only option I wanted but it didn’t have was a three pedal manual, but it does have the manual SMG in it vs. an automatic trans so I still get to make it shift manually and feel the clutches engage, lol. All the best ! Steve
U think this is the reason why my 2008 Escalade is making the tik tik noise like a lifter noise?
Hey man ! It is possible that the lifters would tic if the oil pressure is getting low. Another thing might be like mine that also had an exhaust leak (the exhaust manifold bolts break on these motors frequently) that sounded a lot like a valve tapping…it would go away after the motor warmed up, but it was because the exhaust manifold would expand and seal back up. Before taking it all apart, I would buy a scanner and check the oil pressure first if it was me just to makes sure the tapping might be coming from low oil pressure. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
How’d you take the bolt off against the transmission housing half the bolt is hidden.? Tia.
Ranjit , hello...not sure which bolt you are referring to...seems there were two black plastic covers back there that had to come off but I don’t remember any of them being tough to get to though. If you want to, you can snap a pic of it and the area and and email it to me at stevesdiys@gmail.com ,Steve
Ranjit , you can also slow the video down to .25x speed up in the upper right of the TH-cam screen to see the steps a bit better...I think I videoed all of the steps...just did high speed through the bolt removal part.
Steve’s DIYs hi Steve yeah it was those bolts behind the plastic covers, thank you very much from Chestermere for your help.
Got a 07 escalade and has a rough idle What could it be already did a tune up n didn’t change anything
I had to clean my throttle body on mine, idles much better now, its a 10 minute fix if thats the issue
Hey man ! If it’s idling rough, but not giving any codes, I’d start with cleaning the throttle body as bigdawglifters mentioned as this doesn’t typically throw codes either when they are dirty. Also, I’ve not had it happen on this vehicle, but several others I’ve worked on had a sticky idle air control valve that would cause a rough idle periodically and one had a dry rotted vacuum line to the intake that was causing the problem.
@@StevesDIYs as for codes check engine comes on and off so definitely going to check that . But ima start with the throttle and then the air valve hopefully it fixes the issue i still got to fix the infamous fuel pump level sensor thanks for the info tho appreciate it
Steve.. code P0011? should the timing chain be changed?
Hello, have you confirmed that your oil pressure is low (with a scanner that can read the live oil pressure)? I believe the Variable Valve Timing uses oil pressure to operate so if your oil pressure is very low, it can trip this cam code as well. If it is low, I’d start by addressing that issue first and then see if it takes care of the cam timing. If you’re still getting the code with good oil pressure, I would then suspect something up top on the motor. Hope this helps...All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs ok. Thanks
Can I please bring my escalade to you,I need a rear main seal put in.
Hey man ! Doing the rear main seal was for sure no fun…even with the car lift, but once they are leaking bad enough there’s not much else that can be done except replace it.
Most local shops that work on full sized trucks could easily do this job as it didn’t require any special OE tools and the power train is the same as a pick-up truck for the most part. It sure would be nice to have a complete shop vs. just my home shop to work on cars…maybe one day I’ll have one after retiring from my full time job.
@@StevesDIYs thanks bro
@@StevesDIYs Steve quick question, on my Escalade I have a milky oil cap,but my oil dipstick just have oil on it and my antifreeze is at normal level and it dont run hot or anything, so do that mean I have a blown head gasket?
@@Jacblack69 hey man ! Sometimes the milky condensation that collect under the cap is just from condensation where the motor gets hot and the outside air temp is cooler. I’d try wiping it clean then driving for a week or so and then check it again to see if it has gone away. I’m not sure on these motors, but some have a crank case vent valve that allows outside air in to the crankcase so it doesn’t pressurize as the pistons go up and down so it might pull moisture in from that. If your oil looks good and you are not loosing coolant, I’d say it’s fine 👍. A way to tell would be to do a coolant pressure leak down test. A local shop you trust could do that (the key word there is trust...shops tell people things just to get money to fix stuff I’ve found). If a coolant pressure leak down test shows pressure loss and there are no drips found, it might be a small leak in the head gasket.
So that is a 6.2 ltr not a 5.3
Hello, yes the ‘07 Escalade ESV was equipped with the 6.2 L 👍.
@@StevesDIYs
Thanks getting ready too do mine on my 6.2 thanks for the video.
A BEAR!!!!!!
Yep, this DIY does take a bit of work for sure…2nd only to replacing the rear main seal on it lol !
Them rear main seals are a mofo to get done.
Yep, replacing the rear main is a full day’s work for sure...not much easy at all for that.
Great video. Thank for sharing !!!
I think I be having the same problem
P0011 code
Did you car was making any noise ?
My car is making noise looks like it's coming from the oil pan but comes and goes .
I took a video of the noise
Looks like every time I drive in the highway for about 10 minutes the noise come
th-cam.com/video/okAd5nOLQDo/w-d-xo.html
Them if I go up the hill or drive in the city
after 5 minutes the noise was gone
th-cam.com/video/18yWOchznnE/w-d-xo.html
My is a 2007 cadillac escalade
You think your obd2 will work so I can see the oil pressure
This is your right iCarsoft i900 ?
Thank you very much for your help !!
Andre Desouza , thanks ! Mine wasn’t making much noise, but once or twice after idling for a long time it warned me the oil pressure was low and to shut the engine off. Yours is making a lot of noise, but at least it goes away so it may be oil pressure related. I think the P0011 code is for valve timing but that may relate to oil pressure as well. Yes the scanner I have is an icarsoft for the GM vehicles...it should work for the 2007 as well I would think. It is nice as it reads the oil pressure so you can see it fluctuate to indicate an issue. Hope this helps 👍. Steve
@@StevesDIYs
Thank you very much for your response
I'm planning to replace the o-ring this week and I hope will fix my problem
And for sure I will buy the same scanner you have
It's a shame Escalade 07 doesn't have oil pressure on dashboard :(
Thank again !!!!
Andre Desouza , no problem 👍. Hope you get it fixed up and running good again. Yep, not sure why they didn’t give an option to see the oil pressure on these...sure would be nice to check it on the dash vs, having to buy a scanner. All the best ! Steve
did the o ring ever fix that problem?
Can it be driven without the front driveshaft and CV axles???
Michael Wilson , hello. I don’t think it can since it’s all wheel drive all the time so there’s no way to stop the transfer case gears for this design. I believe it balances all four wheel’s speed by the transfer case gearing so if the front is free to spin, it won’t go anywhere. I could be wrong though as I didn’t really try it with the front disconnected to see.
@@StevesDIYs thank you I'm hearing alot of metal grinding when I'm driving and I think it's the front diff. I don't have the money to get it rebuilt. So I thought about removing it altogether. Thank you for the reply.
Michael Wilson , no problem 👍. All the best ! , Steve
If someone’s tried it I’d be glad to know too.