I don’t generally leave comments on videos that I’ve watched, but this one definitely deserved some kudos. Not only is the video incredibly well, documented and informative, but when I reached out to John with a question, he offered to provide me his contact information if I had follow-up questions. I’m sure he’s busy like everyone else in life, but he really took time to answer my questions thoroughly and even provided some other suggestions for the storage to be used as a table when it comes down. John is one of those rare people that goes out of his way to help others that he has never met. I very much appreciate not only the video, but also his assistance afterwards. Thanks John!
As others have said, this is an amazingly well made and explained video. No one else has ventured into the options of mechanical advantage. Kudos and thank you for sharing.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Anybody can make a video utilizing pulleys and rope… But I wanted folks to understand why and how before they elevate expensive materials or equipment without regard… Plus it’s a really cool learning experience.. If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out via email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com and I will send over construction information and viewer Bill photos for reference… I’ve helped folks all over the world with their builds and have come across some really interesting scenarios, but ultimately all works out in the end.
I see other comments similar to this but I am amazed at how well this video is put together. It's no longer than it needs to be. John is incredibly knowledgeable and able to break that down in an easily digestible format. This video is incredible. Not only does it explain how he went about it, but includes options to suit other needs or space limitations.
That’s exactly right.. everything you need to know and nothing extra.. takes a lot of planning on my end to save time on yours.. I’ve communicated with hundreds of people around the world to help them with their specific situation.. if you have any question shoot me an email. JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
In this case, I’m glad I took the time to make a video… You as well as a few hundred others have reached out with photos and gratitude for the info… I’m happy to share… Shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com if you have any questions
Gearhead and Engineer here.. Nice video and good explanation of pulley systems! Love it. Looking at your setup, you could leave the load boards attached and swing them to the front and back of the roof top tent (RTT) without having to disconnect them from the lines. You would have to lift the RTT with your shoulder on the front like you did in the video to provide clearance with the truck roof. You could also use quick release tension handles on the T-slot bolts (think quick release bicycle tires) to attach the load board to the RTT, which would keep the T-slot bolts with the load boards (less floating pieces to lose).
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Those are great ideas, I will definitely look into it quick release attachments as mentioned. With the t bolts in the board and the knob slightly loose and I am able to move the boards back-and-forth with a light tap so your idea might work better for sliding the boards in as mentioned and then tapping them into the position below the ceiling braces. The only reason I have to disconnect it is the carabiner will not go through the pulley
That’s exactly right! Happy to share! Some folks think I make it harder than it is. But I think the info does all the brain work to make it easy for others to understand. Let me know if you have any questions!
DUDE!!! That’s freaking awesome. I’ve seen a lot of videos on TH-cam, a lot of in-depth detailed videos but man…you are one seriously detailed guy. I’m guessing here but, Mechanical Engineering right? This is a system exactly what I’m looking for. Thanks so much! 👍
Thanks Gator , I used this video to install the lift in my carport to take the topper off my truck by my self. I had to make a frame in the center from some bed frame scraps to get it the way you have. in the end it works great cost around 250.00 and took a full day to install. You really did a good job covering all the bases thanks again.
Thanks so much for reaching out Joseph it’s always good to hear from my viewers especially on a construction project… I would love to see it, and add it to my viewers builds! I’m glad my information helped you, that’s what it’s for, just paying it forward! 🤝 Email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Another great video thanks... I'm thinking about adjusting this system for hoisting the top. The Jeep community is better when folks like you are involved.
That’s what it’s all about! If it helps even one person learn or understand, then it’s worth my time to make a video explaining how to do it. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
Coming from someone learning to be an engineer, you did a great job. The safety chain is a great idea. The only thing I'd change is where it is mounted. Since the eyelet is coming out the side of the square stock, its creating a moment (rotational force).
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… You’re absolutely correct about the eyelet and rotation force. I have considered relocation and a smaller eye faced down to center the force of gravity/rotational force. 🤝
Thanks! I put a lot of though and effort into the design and video i hopes even one persons finds it helpful. It’s super helpful and convenient for our RTT storage
@@GatorOverland I just noticed that my joists in the garage run perpendicular to yours. is there going to be alot of problems with a 90 degree twist in the ropes/pulleys? any work around for this?
Don’t hesitate to reach out. I gave a lot of information so it may seem complicated but it’s really quite simple and only requires a few simple tools. If you have questions or need construction information email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com.
Glad you’re able to take advantage of it! Shoot me an email @ JKHARTEL3@gmail.com if you have any build specific questions.. I’ve helped hundred of folks around the world
Awesome attention to detail and precision!. This is the best explained hoist system that can be tailored to the size and load capacity needed at a fraction of cost the prebuilt systems.
I show you asking another comment about the eyebolts but I can’t reply to it for some reason… Feel free to email me any questions you may have jkhartel3@gmail.com
Great video and setup. I'm going to build one for my garage! Safety tip: Never let a wire rope run through your hand. If it starts running it will destroy your palm and maybe take off a finger.
Awesome!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Don’t hesitate to reach out via email with questions JKHartel3@gmail.com AND thanks for the wire rope tip 🤘🏼
I appreciate that. I’m not a mechanical engineer but.. went to school for it a few years and a bit of it stuck.. figured I wouldn’t hurt to share this with folks like yourself in hopes that it’s exactly what they are looking for. 🤝
John, great video. I may have missed it if you mentioned these but 2 factors I think are important when adding additional pulleys needed to gain the mechanical advantage. If you go direct from the platform, each turn of the winch results in a 1:1 lift of the platform. This means your bridle needs to be the same number of feet away from the min winch position as the height you want to lift. IE, to lift 10 ft, the bridle needs to be at least 10ft away from the wall. Once you add additional pulleys at the platform connections and the winch, it is no longer a 1:1 between the length of cable pulled in by the winch and the height the platform raises. This affects your planning and something you need to verify before drilling. In addition, the lift speed is reduced dramatically. Just some food for thought for others before they start.
Thanks man, I appreciate that… Yes start at about 16:35 for the full explanation… I go further on at about 18:56… And then specifically what you’re telling me in your statement is mentioned at 19:50.. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment 🤝
@@GatorOverland Perfect, I totally missed it as I already have a system built and was jumping around. Is there a multiplying factor as well when you do Mech Adv 2 at the platform AND at the winch? Does it become a 4-1 at that point? Thanks agains and nice work!
No worries… The MA2 basically divides the load by two in any situation… So at that point, yes 4 to 1.. 160/4 160#/2 = 80# (load at bridle) 80#/2= 40# (load at winch)
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… It did take a little bit of planning to get the explanation as simple as possible for something so complex.. if you have any questions with your construction, feel free to reach out jkhartel3@gmail.com
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… As well as taking notice to a lot of information without extra fluff… That’s what I try to do give as much information as I can without tangents and opinions.. hundreds of folks from all over the world have reached out with photos and gratitude for my time spent explaining… Let me know if you have any questions, I’m happy to help… jkhartel3@gmail.com
Safety first!! Thank you.. I know it’s a bit over explained but I want folks who would maybe shy away from the task feel comfortable doing it on their own.. I have dozens of photos of folks who have sent me emails of their own construction based on my info.. if you need construction info shoot me a message to jkhartel3@gmail.com
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… I watched a handful and couldn’t seem to find exactly what I was looking for or answers from the poster, so I Did a bit of research and made my own… Happy to pay it forward… Let me know if you have any questions I’m happy to help JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Awesome! That will be perfect.. I have a handful of viewers who have constructed based on my video for exactly the same… Feel free to reach out via email for photos and communication about the project. JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Absolutely… Don’t forget to check the description below for construction information… I have helped over a dozen folks like yourself around the world with their system since posting the video… If you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out… My email is available in the description as well
Well-done amigo. I appreciate the level of detail; the "how" and especially the "why" information as you move through the design and installation. Thank you.
😮 this is the best DIY video i have ever seen. I found this video searching for pulley system ideas to lift my truck canopy. Thanks for making this video. 🙌
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… I take pride in sharing information and helping people learn…I have construction information if you need it. I hope it wasn’t too long for you but if you should have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out or shoot me an email… I have since uploading this help people all over the world with their own… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
great video, just the right amount of detail. I'm looking for a way to get my poker table out of the way when not in use, I think this is just the ticket. Fold the legs up, put a few load boards under it and hoist it out of the way. Thanks!
This will work great for that… Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Let me know if you have any questions… Check the description for links to my dropbox for construction information… Or email me at JKHartel3@gmail.com
I enjoyed your video and method, have you noticed any movement on the pulleys attached to your load boards? I’ve found mounting into the end grain of wood to be dicey, especially with soft woods. I doubt it would matter much here, but if someone scaled up this design for a heavier lift I suspect the pulleys would tear out long before any of the other components failed. In any case, thank you for sharing your project.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You’re absolutely right about the end grain. The tent is 160lbs, only only 40lbs per corner, and the lug size x length I used is rated for 200lbs each. I’m pretty confident with my construction, but If I was going any heavier I would probably do an eye bolt thru the topside of the board and fasten with a large washer on the bottom side for displacement. But to answer your question further, no, there has been no degradation in nearly 3 years and multiple cycles of installing and removing the tent. Smooth as butter and works great.
Exactly what I was looking for! Great Job! I am not very pulley savvy but your explanations and information gave me the understanding to adapt it to my situation.
I appreciate that.. usually you see a 20min video you’re wondering how much of that is fluff.. I make it a point to answer nearly any question I imagine before doing my designs and installs.. leaving you with 20mins of a learning experience.. 😂🤝
I’ve watched several videos on this topic over the last several days and finally came upon yours. Your explanation of the pulley system and mechanical advantage etc was exactly what I was looking for! I need to understand how and why something works the way it does before I can confidently apply the lesson, and you helped me achieve that next level of understanding - thank you! I intend to use what I learned to create a retractable workbench for a 3D printer/laser engraver that takes up too much space in my workshop when not in use. I have a few other ideas that would benefit from this utility, which leads me to ask a question: if I set up a winch + hoist system as you did but wanted to lift/lower different loads (located in different places), could I use the same winch for them? (Basically, can I create a “quick-connect” to the winch and interchange the load I’m trying to pull?) I’m not an overlander (but would probably enjoy it…and have quietly lusted over the roof nests) but I subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning more from you! Thank you for creating with such careful intention.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I actually just helped a guy do the same idea. Please reach out via email and we can discuss further. As for your multi purpose winch idea.. yes it will work, but would take some brainstorming for efficient routing Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Fantastic video! I was looking at various techniques for building a pulley shelving lift in my garage, I wanted it to be clean balanced and mechanically safe, this video was long but all the explanation is exactly what I needed to make sure this system will be safe not just for me but for the next homeowner. 👍
That’s exactly why I took the amount of time to make the video… Not just to get it done, but to further explain its abilities and safety… Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Let me know if you have any questions… I’ve helped dozens of folks around the world with their build, and some were similar to what you plan on doing. You can email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
I think the only thing I’m wary of on this setup is the pulleys installed into the endgrain of the load boards - maybe its fine, but I feel like perhaps a piece of punched angle on each corner of the load boards would give me a lot more peace of mind.
Absolutely… There’s no harm in being over cautious… In my situation the weight is only 40 pounds per corner and I used lag bolts sufficient of the load… It’s to anyone’s discretion of how careful they want to be but in my opinion it is totally safe and has been holding up without issues for two years. you could utilize the same square tubing and instead of using a fixed pulley you could attach a pulley through one of the holes with use of an eyebolt much like I did for the upper ceiling brackets….
Thanks… Over a dozen people have reached out via email with photos of their completed hoist system based on my video… If you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out… See the description below for construction information and links
John that was a very easy to understand video, even the mechanical advantage portion. Took me back to high school math/science class, wait do I really want to repeat all of that 😜
😂😂😂thanks man. Yes I figured I might as well explain why/how it works so folks will be comfortable knowing it won’t break or fall, because, Physics proves it 😂😂😂
Thanks for taking the to watch and comment! Always happy to help. I would love to see that when you’re done. Shoot an email to jkhartel3@gmail.com if you have any questions or want to share your construction to add to my viewers builds portfolio
Instead of 3/8 3" lag screw into the ceiling joists I went with 4". Going through 1.5 square tubing and washer, I wanted more to go into the ceiling joist :)
Great video and I used your cordless drill technique to raise it...saved a bunch of cranking by hand. However, when lowering the lift, the cordless drill just unscrews the nut from the crank. How do you crank in reverse without taking the nut off? Going in forward direction the nut tightens up to the point it cannot go any further, therefore the crank turns. Not the case in reverse direction. Please help 😉
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… You’ll be happy to know that you’re not the only one who’s had this issue… I also have had this issue… If you’re using a drill that has the impact operation, it will unscrew the nut… I use a drill that is Just normal turning operation without the impact and it works fine, I just have to start out slow… I have managed to work the impact drill without backing off the nut, but you have to start off really slow and put power low and let the system start operating… The other options would be to get red Loctite, or get a nut of the same thread, and put it on the stud to work as a jam nut, but it will probably require a deep well socket in order to hit the original not properly.. I think Loctite will work just fine once it’s set
Great video, I will likely be building one of my own. Our RTT is on an SUV, so we can't get under it to leverage and get the boards under it like you did here. Maybe instead of disconnecting the 2x6s we could slide it over the top/bottom and lift it up a bit to get the car out from underneath. After that we could very carefully lift the RTT up to further slide the 2x6s under the frame that it will bolt into. Problem with this is both unloading and loading will have the RTT resting on the 2x6s without being bolted down.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… There is actually no problem with leaving the rooftop 10 on the load boards without being fastened… I merely did this as an additional safety measure… What you have suggested by lifting up the rooftop tent slightly to slide in the board is perfectly fine… I have a friend with a forerunner that does it this way. Just make sure you determine your center of gravity for the tent and locate the load boards accordingly… Let me know if you have any further questions on construction, I’m happy to help… Email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Excellent video -thanks. Question for you - I’d like to do something similar, but have a solid platform where I can put woodworking power tools on top. Portable table saw, portable chopsaw with stand, small router table, etc. I think the weight of all the equipment would be around 175 pounds. Besides ensuring the platform is strong enough, and upgrading the pulleys and rope to hold the greater weight, any other changes to your design that you would recommend? TIA.
I think that’s a brilliant idea… I actually got this idea from a video I saw of a dad who made a train set village able to be lifted and lowered so their kids could play and then they could have it out-of-the-way for cars to park… So yes, you could do exactly what you’re asking and make it out of a solid platform rather than The separate load boards… When I connect the load boards to the bottom of my tent, essentially it becomes a integral platform. I’d be happy to help you with any questions you may have, just shoot me an email to JKHARTEL3@gmail.com.
This is awesome to hear! Thanks taking the time to watch and comment. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, always happy to helps Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Great tip on the winch and the electric drill. I am going to hang a couple of heavy fishing kayaks and have to crank up 10 feet so I want to go look at the HF winch. The safety chains are a good idea... but the weak link in your design is pulleys screwed to the end grain in the boards. Screws in end grain are very weak so you don't have the safety you think you have because the screws are the failure point. You should have eye bolts in the boards for the safety chains to attach to. Hopefully it is still holding for you.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Yes, you’ve pointed out the potential failure point on the end grain. I went by a lug length and diameter spec that is capable of more that the pulley is rated for. I’m only hoisting 150lbs so it’s 1/4 of that at each corner. So far it’s not issues and functions a flawlessly. I bolts is definite the stonger application and will do that if my load increases above 200lbs
You should never screw into the end grain of a board, when you are putting any kind of a load on it. Doesn't matter how light the load is, you can't trust the grain of the board to hold it. It can easily split apart at any time, and this will just get more likely as the board ages. Other than that, you did a great job of engineering and explaining what you did, and I appreciate your putting out the video. I am looking to do something like this for my kayak, so thanks again.@@GatorOverland
@longbowman9883 I appreciate that wood grain information… What I will probably do is put eye bolt vertically through the board and then attach a pulley to the eyebolt… That or some 1.5 inch x 60” tubing like I did on the ceiling and run eyebolt and pulley though that on each end.. let me know if you have any questions on construction 🤝
Thank you for the video and the detailed explanations of what to buy and why. I bought an electric hoist and my garage has vaulted ceilings but the wood beams that run from front to back are too low. It won’t pull high enough so I have to switch to a pulley setup or wall mount.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Don’t hesitate to reach out via email if you have any questions about your specific build… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverlandthanks! I do have a question. Instead of using boards to help lift, could we use lifting slings? I know it’s easier to level it out with boards, but I was just curious. I’m thinking of putting a sling or board under the long side of the tent vs the short side. My tent is about 78” long so I’d need a really long 2x6 or just use a sling instead.
Great video John. I am about to tackle the same project. I also have a ceiling light to work around as well and very limited on distance from the wall that I want to mount the winch. Was originally thinking of using an electric winch but there is not enough value to offset the money and need for power connection. Thanks for your thoroughness.
Absolutely!! That’s what it’s all about!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! Feel free to contact me via links in the description if you have any questions.
really nice... can i ask why you didn't just use the same steel square tubing for the load bar? if it was too thin a gauge could you have just used a thicker gauge (say 1/4")?
I chose to go with wood because of cost, availability, and is still more than capable of the load.. I couldn’t find any square tubing locally longer than 36”, but it would definitely be a rigid setup with the tubing as the load bar..
I really wish you could attach files and photos associated with this construction… Feel free to send me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com and post to Facebook your photos and tag my name John hartel and the video if you want.. I have hundreds of photos from folks all over the world from their construction based on the video and I will add yours to my portfolio… Thanks for reaching out.
Thanks on all accounts! 🤘🏼.. I help folks all the time, all over the world.. if you have any build specific questions, don’t hesitate to reach out.. jkhartel3@gmail.com
apreciate the design and details on setup. gonna built similar setup for my Falcon 2 Pro, but i've got tracks can use eyebolts in vs needing the boards under. ;)
Be careful using your track as the lifting point… I believe the tracks are only rated for 75 pounds per side or 25 pounds per bolt… If that works out to under the weight of your falcon Then it is a great use of the track… Otherwise it could be dangerous and rip through the aluminum.
Awesome… If you don’t mind, shoot me an email with some photos when you get it done… Or if you have any questions on construction don’t hesitate to reach out… jkhartel3@gmail.com
In my next house I'm doing this by making sure I have a big enough garage door opening. Currently I wouldn't be able to get into or out of the garage with the tent on the truck, even if I aired down. Totally doing this next time though.
😂😂 truck with tent is 84” tall I was fortunate that my threshold was 92” in the center, but tapers down on the sides so it does take a bit of maneuvering to line up, but it’s off and on in 10mins now and out of the element on down time.
John, nice video and explanation. I created a lift system just as you have for my truck cap. With this system, it is virtually a 4-1 mechanical advantage, yes? A 2-1 advantage for what I would call the lift system (that part in front of the load bridle) and another 2-1 for the pull system (that part attached to the winch). I'm surprised at the amount of force I need to just lift my two boards with no weight on them. I can barely manually lift the two boards pulling by hand. I tried another test. I have a couple of 70lb sand bags I put on the boards and tested. I couldn't lift them at all. With a 4-1 advantage, my total lifting force for 140lbs would be 35lbs. I'm not superman, but I can lift 35lbs with one arm. I estimate my truck cap to weigh somewhere around 200lbs (give or take 50lbs). I haven't purchased a winch yet as I'm confused on the amount of force needed for my unloaded system. Do (did) you have the same issue? Is this just the amount of drag of the total system?
Bart, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I’d love to talk with you more about your setup. Please contact me outside of TH-cam so we can share info and pics/vids for reference For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
That's a neat little system! Looks to be similar to Harken and around the same price. I am at the stage of building vs. buying and like your setup since it offers adjustability in the square tubing if I ever needed to use it as platform storage.
Yes, exactly.. it’s a similar design to a harken, but the highest capacity harken is only capable of 200lbs at a price point of $230 and you still need to invest in other materials for mounting.. for about the same price my design is capable of 400lbs, limited by the (4) 100lb stationary pulleys on then load boards, and could easily be increased if higher capacity stationary/swivel pulley and rope was used. Either way they are great options. I like projects and I like sharing them with others so it was a win win, and if it helps even one person learn or understand, then it was worth my time to do. Don’t forget to check the description for links to my dropbox for construction information and contact information should you have any other questions. 🤘🏼
Nice job! Thank you for a very descriptive video! I was considering an electric hoist but the drill driven version will more than suffice for my needs. Mechanical advantage at work, I "better" understand now! ;-) Question. Do you have enough rope length to lower the 2x6 load bars all the way to the floor?
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. By design, I only needed about 2 feet to drop… with mechanical advantage 2 that would mean I needed at minimum 4 feet from the Hoist wall.. I have a 9 foot ceiling, so to touch the floor using MA2, I would need 18 feet to the hoisting wall.. MA1 would need only 9 feet from the hoisting wall.. If you have any specific questions, please reach out via email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com Various viewer build photos for reference from around the world, and I’m sure we can get you fixed up .
No I do not have any specific video for my installation rather it’s an overview because every installation will be different… I have had a couple dozen folks reach out via email and I have gone over specifics with them and they have been able to do it for themselves with their configuration. See the description for links to all the construction information and materials… Shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com and I’m happy to help in anyway (photos, clips, info)
Thanks so much for the kind comment, and taking the time to watch… Let me know if you have any questions… My contact information is in the description as well as construction information and links to my dropbox
Thanks bud! Soon I’m going to attempt to raise both the tent and the rack connected to Incase I need full bed access.. I need to come up with a turnbuckle to pull inward where the rack attaches to the bed rails to keep them from Bowing out when picked up since they are under preload. Other than that, it works better than I expected!
Since you utilized ‘mechanical advantage 2’ twice in this system, does that mean the winch needs to pull 4x the amount of line? Ex) You mentioned you need to raise your tent 24”. Does that mean your winch needs to pull 96” to raise the tent 24”?
Surprisingly the answer to your question ends up being the right number, but not because it’s multiplied times four… I did mechanical advantage 2 on the winch side of the load bridle.. after linkage length and connections It’s approximately 48 inches from the winch wall… 48×2 is 96.. Add that to the length of line from the ceiling down to the winch, and that is the working length of pull.. in my case my winch is about 6 feet down from the ceiling so 8+6 is 14 feet of total working length required. if you reach out via email, I can go over this to you in a proper video clip… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
*Lets see if you can help me out here.* *I have a 70ft by 10 ft long outdoor batting cage. And what I wanted to do is to create a system where I can hook carabiners all around the bottom of the net (I think, 12 will do), attach them with wire cables and pullies, to a winch, where I can lift up the bottom of the net from all sides to about a foot up in the air. And this is when the batting cage is not in use.* *I need this so that the squirrels can pass through, otherwise, they keep chewing the net to make holes into it.*
Hey bill thanks for taking the time to watch and comment .. the watch is the luminox recon 8826.MI for (mph walking).. they have updated the style since my model
Out to get stuff. How did you determine the amount of road you needed which is easier to use than use cable. I have 10’ ceilings Do you like the worm gear winch?
It really depends on how far you are from the hoisting wall and how far you’re needing to hoist.. if you do MA2 you multiply your distance x2. Shoot me an email and we can discuss further. Jkhartel3@gmail.com
You could probably do a shackle.. the load bridle just gives it a uniform/equal separation for the pulleys rather than forcing To a more central location of a d-ring
Thanks for the awesome video. I am in the process of building a similar setup to take my rack and tent off together. In looking at the worm gear setup I'm curious how you held the bolt onto the shaft on the winch when lowering the tent. Raising it makes sense that it would stop threading on at a point but, depending on the amount of torque you're applying you could easily back off the nut on that shaft. Just curious how you bypassed that, or if it was such an aggressive gear ratio that you back that nut off.
You propose a very good question… There is very little resistance on the worm gear because it’s 40 to 1… If you hit it with an impact style drill it will definitely back off the nut… But you can use the drill on a low torque setting and start slow and then once it gets momentum going let her rip. I have yet to have it back off except for the first time which was a learning experience. Let me know if you have any questions or feel free to reach out via email… jkhartel3@gmail.com
Hi John, thank you for the great video with detailed walkthrough of the process! I am planning to build the same for hoisting my IKamper 2.0 Skykamp RTT in my garage (12' ceiling height). I am wondering what kind of floor joist you have, (solid 2x6 stud or engineered I-frame with plywood web and how much screw thread you got into the wood? The reason I am asking is because, mine is engineered I-frame which is constructed using 1 1/8" thickness solid wood at top and bottom. With 3" 3/8 lag screw it will only reach about 7/8" into the wood when we factor in the washer, 1 1/2 inch square tube and 1/2" drywall. Wondering, whether two 3" screws with 7/8" thread inside the wood (on each of the four square tubes) is enough to hold the weight safely ? Any thoughts ?
Thanks for reaching out… I’d be happy to answer some questions you have, shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com With the lag bolts, simply out, the longer they are and the more you uses the stronger it will be. I’ve helped build organize 3 other folks systems already..
Loved the video. Can you tell me what type of rope you used and what was it rated for? I'm working on a hoist for my James Baroud Grand Raid XXL which is 165 lbs.
MX walk-in door by ARE… need to,hoist from ground and handle,400#. Seems like a system like yours would be ideal. I believe I have the distance but I need to ensure I’ve got the 13’ as I’ll need to hoist it 78”.
Yes, just figure your load and invest in the pulleys and rope that are within the range of that capacity. Let me know if you have any questions. I can send your construction info if need be. Jkhartel3@gmail.com
I really appreciate the assistance. I really want to do this and will take my time so I do not get ahead of myself. I’ll have a car living under the hoist and cap, so safety chain etc… critical. It will be over engineered so to speak.
Hi, for a MA2, is the distance to hoist measured from the “junction block” in the center of your design? Not from the bridle load, correct? I have to raise from floor up to about 70” so I’ll need 140” from junction block to wall where my stationary direct pulley is mounted?
Yes, a MA2 70” lift distance would require a 140” (11’-8”) linear distance from the hoist source, however, your junction block does not need to be directly centered between the 4 ceiling brackets like I’ve done. please email me at JKhartel3@gmail.com as I have photo examples of what you are asking from a viewer who hoisted from the ground.
pretty close… I am not military, but I work in engineering..I’m just a guy making things easier for those who are willing to do it themselves. Let me know if you have any questions 🤝
Thanks!! And Not at all. I have 200lb 1/4” lags in them and even though I’m using 2 of the 3 mount holes they are designed and rated for the intended use, and I am well under the capacity by over 50%. 160lbs at four corners is 40lbs per pulley. This is all theoretical, but I have not one worry 😂🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland I wouldn't worry about the lags or pulleys strength either, I'd worry about the quality of the wood and possibly splitting and tearing out as it ages. Pulling apart wood grain seems plausible even at 40lbs a corner doesn't it?
You can use the bolts that came with your tent for the t slots.. I believe mine are M6 35 mm. And the knobs came with my tent, but they will be like this amzn.to/462nETh
Absolutely man… The idea was to cover everything so no one had any questions and if they did, they can contact me personally… If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask I’m always happy to help
@@GatorOverland no questions comes to mind since you may have covered it all. I’ll order what I need and put it together next month. If I have questions, I’ know who to ask. Thanks!!!
Great video. It's what I am searching or a while. Quick question, why not directly hook on your roof top tent? What's the benefit of having those support bars below?
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I suppose one could hook the hoist system to the RTT, but then you’re relying on the strength of the tent to be available to stressors that it may not have been designed for. I’m not quite sure what you would hook it to on a tent. Maybe the RoofNest falcon (aluminum) would work. My load bar design would be universal for hoisting anything.. RTT, canoes, kayaks, ladders.. you could even make a platform. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the reply. I agree the load bar should be more stable and reliable. I was just thinking the mounting rack + some strong hook. I'll do some testing and see. BTW, awesome DIY project!
What is max height of light you can achieve. Have 13 feet to lift with only 12 inches of drag from center of garage. I just worry it wouldn’t lift it high enough
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… I’m not sure I follow your dynamics… I understand you have 13 feet to lift.. not sure with 12 inches of drag means. What is the weight you’re lifting? If you need to lift 13 feet, doing mechanical advantage 1 (MA1) you’ll need minimum 13feet from your winch wall.. nothing wrong with (MA1), it will actually lift faster, you just need to note the capacity of your rope/cable and pullies and increase as needed to suffice your load. If you (MA2) you would need 26ft. This will lift at half the rate if (MA1) but have twice the load capacity. Email me at jkhartel3@gmail.com and I’d be happy to talk ideas with you
Great video! Very detailed and informative! I installed a Harbor Freight hoist and it works great. I made an install video but yours is so much better than mine 😎 I just need to figure out how to attach the hoist better to the RTT. I like your board idea.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Knowing others out there may have current hoist set ups and can easily upgrade their existing set up is awesome to know.. yes the load boards work great and are very rigid when attached to the tent… It would be about $12 worth of material for you😂🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland you bet! You did a great job on this video! Yea I need to set something up for mine with boards. I might need a pulley or something. My RTT is so heavy and it’s really unbalanced!!!
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment… Should you have any questions check the description for my email address… I have helped dozens of folks around the world with their build in the case that they had some hiccups… Always happy to help.
Do you know of there are pullies that can connect to rope? My roof rack and tent combo will not allow me to easily put board under neath. Any suggestion?
@GatorOverland None now, but thanks.. I'm just gonna get my build of materials and start. I'll be purchasing the same roofnest in your video soon to explore Colorado, and storage was the one downside for all the reasons you mentioned in your video.
Unfortunately the price of steel has gone up since I did the project… It was about $20 for 1.5”x36” perforated square tubing and now it’s around $40.. you could definitely use angle, but I figure it would be about half as strong for supporting a load… Not to say that it wouldn’t support the load.. Sparing no expense and providing myself the most adjustability, I went with three sticks of perforated tubing… You could technically buy one stick of perforated tubing, reserving 9 inches for the load bridal, and making four 6.75 to 7 inch long pieces to use as the ceiling brackets .. it should give you some adjustability.. but that’s how you can make it economic and still utilize it.
@@GatorOverland Thanks. I'm going to try the angle iron. It is only about 200 lb total, so 50 lbs per piece. I am going to make the load bridal from a scrap chunk of hickory I have laying around the shop.
One problem I had was the Load Bridal getting hung up on the angle iron. Next time I would make the pully junction block thicker, allowing the Load Bridal to more easily pass under the angle iron. This would be less of an issue if I'd used square perforated tubbing for the bridal. The block of hickory is thicker.
Great video! The joists in my garage run the opposite direction so I’m trying to figure out how to do my pulley junction block. Does the pulley junction block need to be dead center between the ceiling braces?
You’ve asked a great question… Neither does the pulley junction block have to be center nor does it have to face the same direction as mine… That’s the beauty of this system… As long as all load lines are equal everything will work just fine… Feel free to reach out via email and I can help you further jkhartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland hey there... my joists also go in the opposite direction as yours so i am wondering if my junction block can be lagged to a single parallel joist above it and if so, i wonder how long the board needs to be, i would guess the board would need to be at least 3" past the center of each of the outer pulleys. also, would it be enough for there to only be one lag at each end of the board.
@shawnquesta8356 please reach out to me… I’m happy to help you. It doesn’t matter which way your joist go in most cases. I have plenty of photos from viewers construction to refer to. Jkhartel3@gmail.com
I don’t generally leave comments on videos that I’ve watched, but this one definitely deserved some kudos. Not only is the video incredibly well, documented and informative, but when I reached out to John with a question, he offered to provide me his contact information if I had follow-up questions. I’m sure he’s busy like everyone else in life, but he really took time to answer my questions thoroughly and even provided some other suggestions for the storage to be used as a table when it comes down. John is one of those rare people that goes out of his way to help others that he has never met. I very much appreciate not only the video, but also his assistance afterwards. Thanks John!
And this is why I take the time 👆🏻… thanks for the kind words, always happy to help.
As others have said, this is an amazingly well made and explained video. No one else has ventured into the options of mechanical advantage. Kudos and thank you for sharing.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Anybody can make a video utilizing pulleys and rope… But I wanted folks to understand why and how before they elevate expensive materials or equipment without regard… Plus it’s a really cool learning experience..
If you have any questions, please feel free to reach out via email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com and I will send over construction information and viewer Bill photos for reference… I’ve helped folks all over the world with their builds and have come across some really interesting scenarios, but ultimately all works out in the end.
I see other comments similar to this but I am amazed at how well this video is put together. It's no longer than it needs to be. John is incredibly knowledgeable and able to break that down in an easily digestible format. This video is incredible. Not only does it explain how he went about it, but includes options to suit other needs or space limitations.
That’s exactly right.. everything you need to know and nothing extra.. takes a lot of planning on my end to save time on yours.. I’ve communicated with hundreds of people around the world to help them with their specific situation.. if you have any question shoot me an email. JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
You have no idea how long ive been looking for this video. I need to build one to hoist my kayak in a single garage with a 10' ceiling. Thank you!
In this case, I’m glad I took the time to make a video… You as well as a few hundred others have reached out with photos and gratitude for the info… I’m happy to share… Shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com if you have any questions
Gearhead and Engineer here.. Nice video and good explanation of pulley systems! Love it. Looking at your setup, you could leave the load boards attached and swing them to the front and back of the roof top tent (RTT) without having to disconnect them from the lines. You would have to lift the RTT with your shoulder on the front like you did in the video to provide clearance with the truck roof. You could also use quick release tension handles on the T-slot bolts (think quick release bicycle tires) to attach the load board to the RTT, which would keep the T-slot bolts with the load boards (less floating pieces to lose).
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Those are great ideas, I will definitely look into it quick release attachments as mentioned. With the t bolts in the board and the knob slightly loose and I am able to move the boards back-and-forth with a light tap so your idea might work better for sliding the boards in as mentioned and then tapping them into the position below the ceiling braces. The only reason I have to disconnect it is the carabiner will not go through the pulley
Or run the planks parallel to the truck and add 2 more planks with easy fastening
I love videos made by engineer types. Here's what to build. Here's why that works.
That’s exactly right! Happy to share! Some folks think I make it harder than it is. But I think the info does all the brain work to make it easy for others to understand. Let me know if you have any questions!
DUDE!!! That’s freaking awesome. I’ve seen a lot of videos on TH-cam, a lot of in-depth detailed videos but man…you are one seriously detailed guy. I’m guessing here but, Mechanical Engineering right?
This is a system exactly what I’m looking for. Thanks so much! 👍
Nail on the head bud.! Let me know if you have any question jkhartel3@gmail.com happy to help
Thanks Gator , I used this video to install the lift in my carport to take the topper off my truck by my self. I had to make a frame in the center from some bed frame scraps to get it the way you have. in the end it works great cost around 250.00 and took a full day to install. You really did a good job covering all the bases thanks again.
Thanks so much for reaching out Joseph it’s always good to hear from my viewers especially on a construction project… I would love to see it, and add it to my viewers builds! I’m glad my information helped you, that’s what it’s for, just paying it forward! 🤝
Email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Another great video thanks... I'm thinking about adjusting this system for hoisting the top. The Jeep community is better when folks like you are involved.
That’s what it’s all about! If it helps even one person learn or understand, then it’s worth my time to make a video explaining how to do it. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
Coming from someone learning to be an engineer, you did a great job. The safety chain is a great idea. The only thing I'd change is where it is mounted. Since the eyelet is coming out the side of the square stock, its creating a moment (rotational force).
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… You’re absolutely correct about the eyelet and rotation force. I have considered relocation and a smaller eye faced down to center the force of gravity/rotational force. 🤝
@@GatorOverland How would you mount the eye bolt facing downward? Directly into the ceiling joists or use another square tubing? Thanks
This is "First time quality" tier. Awesome job.
Thanks! I put a lot of though and effort into the design and video i hopes even one persons finds it helpful. It’s super helpful and convenient for our RTT storage
You belong on TV dude! Such a fantastic DIY and extremely thorough. Thank you!
😂😂 TV !? I’m just happy help. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment 🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland I just noticed that my joists in the garage run perpendicular to yours. is there going to be alot of problems with a 90 degree twist in the ropes/pulleys? any work around for this?
That shouldn’t be a problem that I can think of.. shoot me an email with some photos and we can discuss
JKHartel3@gmail.com
that was awesome - looks complicated but a major advantage having only one line to hoist. I'll be building using this design!
Don’t hesitate to reach out. I gave a lot of information so it may seem complicated but it’s really quite simple and only requires a few simple tools. If you have questions or need construction information email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com.
Awesome video and instructions. Thanks for the well laid out design, instructions and engineering explanation of pulley systems.
Glad you’re able to take advantage of it! Shoot me an email @ JKHARTEL3@gmail.com if you have any build specific questions.. I’ve helped hundred of folks around the world
Awesome attention to detail and precision!. This is the best explained hoist system that can be tailored to the size and load capacity needed at a fraction of cost the prebuilt systems.
That is exactly right! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
I show you asking another comment about the eyebolts but I can’t reply to it for some reason… Feel free to email me any questions you may have jkhartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland I sent an email reg my question. Thanks!
I followed up with an email and short video… Reach out via phone number I provided if you have any other questions
Great video and setup. I'm going to build one for my garage! Safety tip: Never let a wire rope run through your hand. If it starts running it will destroy your palm and maybe take off a finger.
Awesome!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Don’t hesitate to reach out via email with questions JKHartel3@gmail.com
AND thanks for the wire rope tip 🤘🏼
this was so good. wow. the mechanical engineer in me is very impressed.
I appreciate that. I’m not a mechanical engineer but.. went to school for it a few years and a bit of it stuck.. figured I wouldn’t hurt to share this with folks like yourself in hopes that it’s exactly what they are looking for. 🤝
John, great video. I may have missed it if you mentioned these but 2 factors I think are important when adding additional pulleys needed to gain the mechanical advantage. If you go direct from the platform, each turn of the winch results in a 1:1 lift of the platform. This means your bridle needs to be the same number of feet away from the min winch position as the height you want to lift. IE, to lift 10 ft, the bridle needs to be at least 10ft away from the wall. Once you add additional pulleys at the platform connections and the winch, it is no longer a 1:1 between the length of cable pulled in by the winch and the height the platform raises. This affects your planning and something you need to verify before drilling. In addition, the lift speed is reduced dramatically. Just some food for thought for others before they start.
Thanks man, I appreciate that… Yes start at about 16:35 for the full explanation… I go further on at about 18:56… And then specifically what you’re telling me in your statement is mentioned at 19:50..
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment 🤝
@@GatorOverland Perfect, I totally missed it as I already have a system built and was jumping around. Is there a multiplying factor as well when you do Mech Adv 2 at the platform AND at the winch? Does it become a 4-1 at that point?
Thanks agains and nice work!
No worries… The MA2 basically divides the load by two in any situation… So at that point, yes 4 to 1.. 160/4
160#/2 = 80# (load at bridle)
80#/2= 40# (load at winch)
Amazing video. Well done. You explained a complex topic in a simple and easily digestible way. You’ve inspired me to build one for my camper shell.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… It did take a little bit of planning to get the explanation as simple as possible for something so complex.. if you have any questions with your construction, feel free to reach out jkhartel3@gmail.com
Nicely done! Excellent, succinct explanations without a lot of useless fluff! I like your design; especially the 2:1 on the load bars. Good idea.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… As well as taking notice to a lot of information without extra fluff… That’s what I try to do give as much information as I can without tangents and opinions.. hundreds of folks from all over the world have reached out with photos and gratitude for my time spent explaining… Let me know if you have any questions, I’m happy to help… jkhartel3@gmail.com
Holy over-engineering-like-a-boss, Batman! Great job and great video!
Safety first!! Thank you.. I know it’s a bit over explained but I want folks who would maybe shy away from the task feel comfortable doing it on their own.. I have dozens of photos of folks who have sent me emails of their own construction based on my info.. if you need construction info shoot me a message to jkhartel3@gmail.com
Watched 3 DIY hoist system videos today, this is by far the best and most sturdy one. Good job!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… I watched a handful and couldn’t seem to find exactly what I was looking for or answers from the poster, so I Did a bit of research and made my own… Happy to pay it forward… Let me know if you have any questions I’m happy to help
JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Great work and I'm going to use this system for storing my kayak and other heavier items in my garage!
Awesome! That will be perfect.. I have a handful of viewers who have constructed based on my video for exactly the same… Feel free to reach out via email for photos and communication about the project.
JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
That's the system I need for my rooftop tent. Thank you for the clear explanation.
Absolutely… Don’t forget to check the description below for construction information… I have helped over a dozen folks like yourself around the world with their system since posting the video… If you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out… My email is available in the description as well
Gotta love them Aggie engineers
Well-done amigo. I appreciate the level of detail; the "how" and especially the "why" information as you move through the design and installation. Thank you.
Absolutely! Thanks for the kind comment! My contact info is in the description. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions
😮 this is the best DIY video i have ever seen. I found this video searching for pulley system ideas to lift my truck canopy.
Thanks for making this video. 🙌
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… I take pride in sharing information and helping people learn…I have construction information if you need it. I hope it wasn’t too long for you but if you should have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out or shoot me an email… I have since uploading this help people all over the world with their own… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
great video, just the right amount of detail. I'm looking for a way to get my poker table out of the way when not in use, I think this is just the ticket. Fold the legs up, put a few load boards under it and hoist it out of the way. Thanks!
This will work great for that… Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Let me know if you have any questions… Check the description for links to my dropbox for construction information… Or email me at JKHartel3@gmail.com
I enjoyed your video and method, have you noticed any movement on the pulleys attached to your load boards? I’ve found mounting into the end grain of wood to be dicey, especially with soft woods. I doubt it would matter much here, but if someone scaled up this design for a heavier lift I suspect the pulleys would tear out long before any of the other components failed. In any case, thank you for sharing your project.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You’re absolutely right about the end grain. The tent is 160lbs, only only 40lbs per corner, and the lug size x length I used is rated for 200lbs each. I’m pretty confident with my construction, but If I was going any heavier I would probably do an eye bolt thru the topside of the board and fasten with a large washer on the bottom side for displacement. But to answer your question further, no, there has been no degradation in nearly 3 years and multiple cycles of installing and removing the tent. Smooth as butter and works great.
Exactly what I was looking for! Great Job! I am not very pulley savvy but your explanations and information gave me the understanding to adapt it to my situation.
I did this video for you.. happy to help.. let me know if you have any questions jkhartel3@gmail.com
Great video I did the same thing. The only thing I did different I use the chandelier hoist.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment !
@@GatorOverland
I love your videos you get straight to the point no rambling.
I appreciate that.. usually you see a 20min video you’re wondering how much of that is fluff.. I make it a point to answer nearly any question I imagine before doing my designs and installs.. leaving you with 20mins of a learning experience.. 😂🤝
I’ve watched several videos on this topic over the last several days and finally came upon yours. Your explanation of the pulley system and mechanical advantage etc was exactly what I was looking for! I need to understand how and why something works the way it does before I can confidently apply the lesson, and you helped me achieve that next level of understanding - thank you! I intend to use what I learned to create a retractable workbench for a 3D printer/laser engraver that takes up too much space in my workshop when not in use. I have a few other ideas that would benefit from this utility, which leads me to ask a question: if I set up a winch + hoist system as you did but wanted to lift/lower different loads (located in different places), could I use the same winch for them? (Basically, can I create a “quick-connect” to the winch and interchange the load I’m trying to pull?)
I’m not an overlander (but would probably enjoy it…and have quietly lusted over the roof nests) but I subscribed to your channel and look forward to learning more from you! Thank you for creating with such careful intention.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I actually just helped a guy do the same idea. Please reach out via email and we can discuss further. As for your multi purpose winch idea.. yes it will work, but would take some brainstorming for efficient routing
Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Fantastic video! I was looking at various techniques for building a pulley shelving lift in my garage, I wanted it to be clean balanced and mechanically safe, this video was long but all the explanation is exactly what I needed to make sure this system will be safe not just for me but for the next homeowner. 👍
That’s exactly why I took the amount of time to make the video… Not just to get it done, but to further explain its abilities and safety… Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Let me know if you have any questions… I’ve helped dozens of folks around the world with their build, and some were similar to what you plan on doing. You can email me at
JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
I think the only thing I’m wary of on this setup is the pulleys installed into the endgrain of the load boards - maybe its fine, but I feel like perhaps a piece of punched angle on each corner of the load boards would give me a lot more peace of mind.
Absolutely… There’s no harm in being over cautious… In my situation the weight is only 40 pounds per corner and I used lag bolts sufficient of the load… It’s to anyone’s discretion of how careful they want to be but in my opinion it is totally safe and has been holding up without issues for two years. you could utilize the same square tubing and instead of using a fixed pulley you could attach a pulley through one of the holes with use of an eyebolt much like I did for the upper ceiling brackets….
Hi John,
Thanks for sharing! The detailed explanation of all the steps make it easy for the reconstruction of your hoist system!
Thanks… Over a dozen people have reached out via email with photos of their completed hoist system based on my video… If you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out… See the description below for construction information and links
That “pearl jam” ‘patagonia’ shirt is cool! 👍🏼
😉🤘🏼
John that was a very easy to understand video, even the mechanical advantage portion. Took me back to high school math/science class, wait do I really want to repeat all of that 😜
😂😂😂thanks man. Yes I figured I might as well explain why/how it works so folks will be comfortable knowing it won’t break or fall, because, Physics proves it 😂😂😂
I was looking for something similar for my slotcar table top. Thank you for being really good at explaining how the system works.
Thanks for taking the to watch and comment! Always happy to help. I would love to see that when you’re done. Shoot an email to jkhartel3@gmail.com if you have any questions or want to share your construction to add to my viewers builds portfolio
Instead of 3/8 3" lag screw into the ceiling joists I went with 4". Going through 1.5 square tubing and washer, I wanted more to go into the ceiling joist :)
Ain’t nothing wrong with going deeper… (that what she said) 😂
Great video and I used your cordless drill technique to raise it...saved a bunch of cranking by hand. However, when lowering the lift, the cordless drill just unscrews the nut from the crank. How do you crank in reverse without taking the nut off? Going in forward direction the nut tightens up to the point it cannot go any further, therefore the crank turns. Not the case in reverse direction. Please help 😉
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… You’ll be happy to know that you’re not the only one who’s had this issue… I also have had this issue… If you’re using a drill that has the impact operation, it will unscrew the nut… I use a drill that is Just normal turning operation without the impact and it works fine, I just have to start out slow… I have managed to work the impact drill without backing off the nut, but you have to start off really slow and put power low and let the system start operating… The other options would be to get red Loctite, or get a nut of the same thread, and put it on the stud to work as a jam nut, but it will probably require a deep well socket in order to hit the original not properly.. I think Loctite will work just fine once it’s set
i love the safety chain idea! gonna add that to my jeep top hoist build.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment…
Great video, I will likely be building one of my own. Our RTT is on an SUV, so we can't get under it to leverage and get the boards under it like you did here. Maybe instead of disconnecting the 2x6s we could slide it over the top/bottom and lift it up a bit to get the car out from underneath. After that we could very carefully lift the RTT up to further slide the 2x6s under the frame that it will bolt into. Problem with this is both unloading and loading will have the RTT resting on the 2x6s without being bolted down.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… There is actually no problem with leaving the rooftop 10 on the load boards without being fastened… I merely did this as an additional safety measure… What you have suggested by lifting up the rooftop tent slightly to slide in the board is perfectly fine… I have a friend with a forerunner that does it this way. Just make sure you determine your center of gravity for the tent and locate the load boards accordingly… Let me know if you have any further questions on construction, I’m happy to help… Email me at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Excellent video -thanks. Question for you - I’d like to do something similar, but have a solid platform where I can put woodworking power tools on top. Portable table saw, portable chopsaw with stand, small router table, etc. I think the weight of all the equipment would be around 175 pounds. Besides ensuring the platform is strong enough, and upgrading the pulleys and rope to hold the greater weight, any other changes to your design that you would recommend? TIA.
I think that’s a brilliant idea… I actually got this idea from a video I saw of a dad who made a train set village able to be lifted and lowered so their kids could play and then they could have it out-of-the-way for cars to park… So yes, you could do exactly what you’re asking and make it out of a solid platform rather than The separate load boards… When I connect the load boards to the bottom of my tent, essentially it becomes a integral platform. I’d be happy to help you with any questions you may have, just shoot me an email to JKHARTEL3@gmail.com.
Thanks for the video! Used yours over others as a foundation to start and worked out well!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment 🤝
Thank you so much for this video, you explained everything I needed to know and now I have a good understanding of how to adapt my system to suit me.
This is awesome to hear! Thanks taking the time to watch and comment. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, always happy to helps
Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Great tip on the winch and the electric drill. I am going to hang a couple of heavy fishing kayaks and have to crank up 10 feet so I want to go look at the HF winch. The safety chains are a good idea... but the weak link in your design is pulleys screwed to the end grain in the boards. Screws in end grain are very weak so you don't have the safety you think you have because the screws are the failure point. You should have eye bolts in the boards for the safety chains to attach to. Hopefully it is still holding for you.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Yes, you’ve pointed out the potential failure point on the end grain. I went by a lug length and diameter spec that is capable of more that the pulley is rated for. I’m only hoisting 150lbs so it’s 1/4 of that at each corner. So far it’s not issues and functions a flawlessly. I bolts is definite the stonger application and will do that if my load increases above 200lbs
You should never screw into the end grain of a board, when you are putting any kind of a load on it. Doesn't matter how light the load is, you can't trust the grain of the board to hold it. It can easily split apart at any time, and this will just get more likely as the board ages. Other than that, you did a great job of engineering and explaining what you did, and I appreciate your putting out the video. I am looking to do something like this for my kayak, so thanks again.@@GatorOverland
@longbowman9883 I appreciate that wood grain information… What I will probably do is put eye bolt vertically through the board and then attach a pulley to the eyebolt… That or some 1.5 inch x 60” tubing like I did on the ceiling and run eyebolt and pulley though that on each end.. let me know if you have any questions on construction 🤝
Great video. Noticed you have your bikes mounted as well. Do you have a video for that?
No, but the company is called steady rack. They have a single pair option on Amazon.. we love it!! amzn.to/3MzymHo
Thank you for the video and the detailed explanations of what to buy and why. I bought an electric hoist and my garage has vaulted ceilings but the wood beams that run from front to back are too low. It won’t pull high enough so I have to switch to a pulley setup or wall mount.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Don’t hesitate to reach out via email if you have any questions about your specific build… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverlandthanks! I do have a question. Instead of using boards to help lift, could we use lifting slings? I know it’s easier to level it out with boards, but I was just curious. I’m thinking of putting a sling or board under the long side of the tent vs the short side. My tent is about 78” long so I’d need a really long 2x6 or just use a sling instead.
Absolutely… I’ve actually had a viewer construct with lifting slings… Shoot me an email and I can shoot you photos for reference
Great video John. I am about to tackle the same project. I also have a ceiling light to work around as well and very limited on distance from the wall that I want to mount the winch. Was originally thinking of using an electric winch but there is not enough value to offset the money and need for power connection. Thanks for your thoroughness.
Absolutely!! That’s what it’s all about!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! Feel free to contact me via links in the description if you have any questions.
really nice... can i ask why you didn't just use the same steel square tubing for the load bar? if it was too thin a gauge could you have just used a thicker gauge (say 1/4")?
I chose to go with wood because of cost, availability, and is still more than capable of the load.. I couldn’t find any square tubing locally longer than 36”, but it would definitely be a rigid setup with the tubing as the load bar..
Well I built this. Your attached documents were great. Would love to share pictures. Can I attach the here?
I really wish you could attach files and photos associated with this construction… Feel free to send me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com and post to Facebook your photos and tag my name John hartel and the video if you want.. I have hundreds of photos from folks all over the world from their construction based on the video and I will add yours to my portfolio… Thanks for reaching out.
Great setup bro. Thanks for this! design. I can totally retrofit this into my metal garage. Also, awesome Pearl Jam shirt!
Thanks on all accounts! 🤘🏼.. I help folks all the time, all over the world.. if you have any build specific questions, don’t hesitate to reach out.. jkhartel3@gmail.com
apreciate the design and details on setup. gonna built similar setup for my Falcon 2 Pro, but i've got tracks can use eyebolts in vs needing the boards under. ;)
Be careful using your track as the lifting point… I believe the tracks are only rated for 75 pounds per side or 25 pounds per bolt… If that works out to under the weight of your falcon Then it is a great use of the track… Otherwise it could be dangerous and rip through the aluminum.
yulp, their rated for 150lb on the racks. i'll be adding nylon ratchet straps under as well for added security.@@GatorOverland
Awesome… If you don’t mind, shoot me an email with some photos when you get it done… Or if you have any questions on construction don’t hesitate to reach out… jkhartel3@gmail.com
In my next house I'm doing this by making sure I have a big enough garage door opening. Currently I wouldn't be able to get into or out of the garage with the tent on the truck, even if I aired down. Totally doing this next time though.
😂😂 truck with tent is 84” tall I was fortunate that my threshold was 92” in the center, but tapers down on the sides so it does take a bit of maneuvering to line up, but it’s off and on in 10mins now and out of the element on down time.
This was great!! Best explanation and nicest build so far.
Thanks I appreciate that… If you have any questions, shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
John, nice video and explanation. I created a lift system just as you have for my truck cap. With this system, it is virtually a 4-1 mechanical advantage, yes? A 2-1 advantage for what I would call the lift system (that part in front of the load bridle) and another 2-1 for the pull system (that part attached to the winch). I'm surprised at the amount of force I need to just lift my two boards with no weight on them. I can barely manually lift the two boards pulling by hand. I tried another test. I have a couple of 70lb sand bags I put on the boards and tested. I couldn't lift them at all. With a 4-1 advantage, my total lifting force for 140lbs would be 35lbs. I'm not superman, but I can lift 35lbs with one arm. I estimate my truck cap to weigh somewhere around 200lbs (give or take 50lbs). I haven't purchased a winch yet as I'm confused on the amount of force needed for my unloaded system. Do (did) you have the same issue? Is this just the amount of drag of the total system?
Bart, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I’d love to talk with you more about your setup. Please contact me outside of TH-cam so we can share info and pics/vids for reference
For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
facebook.com/JKHartel3
instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
Email: JKHartel3@gmail.com
That's a neat little system! Looks to be similar to Harken and around the same price. I am at the stage of building vs. buying and like your setup since it offers adjustability in the square tubing if I ever needed to use it as platform storage.
Yes, exactly.. it’s a similar design to a harken, but the highest capacity harken is only capable of 200lbs at a price point of $230 and you still need to invest in other materials for mounting.. for about the same price my design is capable of 400lbs, limited by the (4) 100lb stationary pulleys on then load boards, and could easily be increased if higher capacity stationary/swivel pulley and rope was used. Either way they are great options. I like projects and I like sharing them with others so it was a win win, and if it helps even one person learn or understand, then it was worth my time to do. Don’t forget to check the description for links to my dropbox for construction information and contact information should you have any other questions. 🤘🏼
Nice job! Thank you for a very descriptive video! I was considering an electric hoist but the drill driven version will more than suffice for my needs. Mechanical advantage at work, I "better" understand now! ;-) Question. Do you have enough rope length to lower the 2x6 load bars all the way to the floor?
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. By design, I only needed about 2 feet to drop… with mechanical advantage 2 that would mean I needed at minimum 4 feet from the Hoist wall.. I have a 9 foot ceiling, so to touch the floor using MA2, I would need 18 feet to the hoisting wall.. MA1 would need only 9 feet from the hoisting wall..
If you have any specific questions, please reach out via email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Various viewer build photos for reference from around the world, and I’m sure we can get you fixed up .
@@GatorOverlandThanks! I'll shoot you an email.
Nicely done brother. Wish I could still get ours into the garage 😆
Yeah same here 🤣
This is a great video. Do you have one that covers your installation process?
No I do not have any specific video for my installation rather it’s an overview because every installation will be different… I have had a couple dozen folks reach out via email and I have gone over specifics with them and they have been able to do it for themselves with their configuration. See the description for links to all the construction information and materials… Shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com and I’m happy to help in anyway (photos, clips, info)
Excellent video. One of the best I've seen on this subject. Thank you!
Thanks so much for the kind comment, and taking the time to watch… Let me know if you have any questions… My contact information is in the description as well as construction information and links to my dropbox
We’ll done. Succinctly explained.
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Great explanation and thank you for the diagram and pictures.
Absolutely!! Let me know if you have any questions.. I help folks with theirs nearly every day.. jkhartel3@gmail.com
Brilliant well done from Perth Australia
Thanks from Texas! Awesome to see it’s made it down under! Let me know if you have any questions! 🤘🏼🤝
Nice! Now I just need a garage to park my gladiator in so I can build one of these
Thanks bud! Soon I’m going to attempt to raise both the tent and the rack connected to Incase I need full bed access.. I need to come up with a turnbuckle to pull inward where the rack attaches to the bed rails to keep them from Bowing out when picked up since they are under preload. Other than that, it works better than I expected!
Since you utilized ‘mechanical advantage 2’ twice in this system, does that mean the winch needs to pull 4x the amount of line?
Ex) You mentioned you need to raise your tent 24”. Does that mean your winch needs to pull 96” to raise the tent 24”?
Surprisingly the answer to your question ends up being the right number, but not because it’s multiplied times four… I did mechanical advantage 2 on the winch side of the load bridle.. after linkage length and connections It’s approximately 48 inches from the winch wall… 48×2 is 96..
Add that to the length of line from the ceiling down to the winch, and that is the working length of pull.. in my case my winch is about 6 feet down from the ceiling so 8+6 is 14 feet of total working length required. if you reach out via email, I can go over this to you in a proper video clip… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Perfect work out there John!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
I'd like brickwork on your garage. Nice a job man.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Let me know if you have any questions
Top notch, right here. Thank you
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. let me know if you have any questions
*Lets see if you can help me out here.*
*I have a 70ft by 10 ft long outdoor batting cage. And what I wanted to do is to create a system where I can hook carabiners all around the bottom of the net (I think, 12 will do), attach them with wire cables and pullies, to a winch, where I can lift up the bottom of the net from all sides to about a foot up in the air. And this is when the batting cage is not in use.*
*I need this so that the squirrels can pass through, otherwise, they keep chewing the net to make holes into it.*
I’d be happy to help with this… Shoot me an email at jkhartel3@gmail.com Maybe you can shoot me a few photos for reference
Beautiful set up
Thanks! It works great !! Let me know if you have any questions
Great video can I ask what watch your wearing in the video
Hey bill thanks for taking the time to watch and comment .. the watch is the luminox recon 8826.MI for (mph walking).. they have updated the style since my model
Out to get stuff. How did you determine the amount of road you needed which is easier to use than use cable. I have 10’ ceilings
Do you like the worm gear winch?
It really depends on how far you are from the hoisting wall and how far you’re needing to hoist.. if you do MA2 you multiply your distance x2.
Shoot me an email and we can discuss further. Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Any benefit of that beefy load bridal verses like a d-ring shackle for the 4 ropes to attach to?
You could probably do a shackle.. the load bridle just gives it a uniform/equal separation for the pulleys rather than forcing To a more central location of a d-ring
Fantastic job on this, I am hooked. If you don’t mind, what was the total cost all in, please? Thanks
Thanks.. about $200-250.. premade options of equivalent are 200lb capacity
Awesome video! I really like how you explained the details. Thanks for making the video.
You bet !! This video is for you. Let me know if you have any questions. My contact info is in the video description
Thanks for the awesome video. I am in the process of building a similar setup to take my rack and tent off together. In looking at the worm gear setup I'm curious how you held the bolt onto the shaft on the winch when lowering the tent. Raising it makes sense that it would stop threading on at a point but, depending on the amount of torque you're applying you could easily back off the nut on that shaft. Just curious how you bypassed that, or if it was such an aggressive gear ratio that you back that nut off.
You propose a very good question… There is very little resistance on the worm gear because it’s 40 to 1… If you hit it with an impact style drill it will definitely back off the nut… But you can use the drill on a low torque setting and start slow and then once it gets momentum going let her rip. I have yet to have it back off except for the first time which was a learning experience. Let me know if you have any questions or feel free to reach out via email… jkhartel3@gmail.com
Hi John, thank you for the great video with detailed walkthrough of the process! I am planning to build the same for hoisting my IKamper 2.0 Skykamp RTT in my garage (12' ceiling height). I am wondering what kind of floor joist you have, (solid 2x6 stud or engineered I-frame with plywood web and how much screw thread you got into the wood? The reason I am asking is because, mine is engineered I-frame which is constructed using 1 1/8" thickness solid wood at top and bottom. With 3" 3/8 lag screw it will only reach about 7/8" into the wood when we factor in the washer, 1 1/2 inch square tube and 1/2" drywall. Wondering, whether two 3" screws with 7/8" thread inside the wood (on each of the four square tubes) is enough to hold the weight safely ? Any thoughts ?
Thanks for reaching out… I’d be happy to answer some questions you have, shoot me an email at JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
With the lag bolts, simply out, the longer they are and the more you uses the stronger it will be. I’ve helped build organize 3 other folks systems already..
Thanks for the thorough breakdown!
I figured at least one person out there would appreciate it.. folks like you make what i do worth doing .
Loved the video. Can you tell me what type of rope you used and what was it rated for? I'm working on a hoist for my James Baroud Grand Raid XXL which is 165 lbs.
3/8” Diamond braid rated for 250lbs
MX walk-in door by ARE… need to,hoist from ground and handle,400#. Seems like a system like yours would be ideal. I believe I have the distance but I need to ensure I’ve got the 13’ as I’ll need to hoist it 78”.
Yes, just figure your load and invest in the pulleys and rope that are within the range of that capacity. Let me know if you have any questions. I can send your construction info if need be. Jkhartel3@gmail.com
I really appreciate the assistance. I really want to do this and will take my time so I do not get ahead of myself. I’ll have a car living under the hoist and cap, so safety chain etc… critical. It will be over engineered so to speak.
Mine is way over engineered, but better to be safe than sorry... let me know how it goes. Happy to help!
Hi, for a MA2, is the distance to hoist measured from the “junction block” in the center of your design? Not from the bridle load, correct? I have to raise from floor up to about 70” so I’ll need 140” from junction block to wall where my stationary direct pulley is mounted?
Yes, a MA2 70” lift distance would require a 140” (11’-8”) linear distance from the hoist source, however, your junction block does not need to be directly centered between the 4 ceiling brackets like I’ve done. please email me at JKhartel3@gmail.com as I have photo examples of what you are asking from a viewer who hoisted from the ground.
Great video and idea! Love the setup!
I’ve helped hundreds of folks around the world develop their own with great success.. thanks for the kind comment 🤘🏼
Something tells me former Navy and and now an engineer.
pretty close… I am not military, but I work in engineering..I’m just a guy making things easier for those who are willing to do it themselves. Let me know if you have any questions 🤝
Excellent tutorial. Are you at all concerned about attaching pulleys to the end grain of the boards?
Thanks!! And Not at all. I have 200lb 1/4” lags in them and even though I’m using 2 of the 3 mount holes they are designed and rated for the intended use, and I am well under the capacity by over 50%. 160lbs at four corners is 40lbs per pulley. This is all theoretical, but I have not one worry 😂🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland I wouldn't worry about the lags or pulleys strength either, I'd worry about the quality of the wood and possibly splitting and tearing out as it ages. Pulling apart wood grain seems plausible even at 40lbs a corner doesn't it?
In time anything is possible. I’m just going to keep an eye on it .. nearly 2yrs and no issues thus far.
I have a VW THING hard top that I’m going to try to build your lift.
That’s going to be awesome… Please send photos when you’re done… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
How long are the t-slot bolts that you used? And where did you buy the bolts and the knobs from?
You can use the bolts that came with your tent for the t slots.. I believe mine are M6 35 mm. And the knobs came with my tent, but they will be like this amzn.to/462nETh
@@GatorOverlandthank you. I appreciate your response. 🤙🏼
Very detailed information! Two thumbs up man and thanks for the links in the description for the items needed!
Absolutely man… The idea was to cover everything so no one had any questions and if they did, they can contact me personally… If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask I’m always happy to help
@@GatorOverland no questions comes to mind since you may have covered it all. I’ll order what I need and put it together next month. If I have questions, I’ know who to ask. Thanks!!!
You bet! My contact info is in the description as well as links to my drop box
Thank you, building this now
You bet… Let me know if you have any questions, I’m always happy to help… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Great video. It's what I am searching or a while. Quick question, why not directly hook on your roof top tent? What's the benefit of having those support bars below?
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I suppose one could hook the hoist system to the RTT, but then you’re relying on the strength of the tent to be available to stressors that it may not have been designed for. I’m not quite sure what you would hook it to on a tent. Maybe the RoofNest falcon (aluminum) would work. My load bar design would be universal for hoisting anything.. RTT, canoes, kayaks, ladders.. you could even make a platform. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the reply. I agree the load bar should be more stable and reliable. I was just thinking the mounting rack + some strong hook. I'll do some testing and see. BTW, awesome DIY project!
Thanks! Let me know how it goes or email at jkhartel3@gmail.com
What is max height of light you can achieve. Have 13 feet to lift with only 12 inches of drag from center of garage. I just worry it wouldn’t lift it high enough
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… I’m not sure I follow your dynamics… I understand you have 13 feet to lift.. not sure with 12 inches of drag means. What is the weight you’re lifting?
If you need to lift 13 feet, doing mechanical advantage 1 (MA1) you’ll need minimum 13feet from your winch wall.. nothing wrong with (MA1), it will actually lift faster, you just need to note the capacity of your rope/cable and pullies and increase as needed to suffice your load.
If you (MA2) you would need 26ft. This will lift at half the rate if (MA1) but have twice the load capacity.
Email me at jkhartel3@gmail.com and I’d be happy to talk ideas with you
You should install these as a side hustle!
Not a bad idea! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment
Nice shirt man. Love it.
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Great video! Very detailed and informative! I installed a Harbor Freight hoist and it works great. I made an install video but yours is so much better than mine 😎 I just need to figure out how to attach the hoist better to the RTT. I like your board idea.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Knowing others out there may have current hoist set ups and can easily upgrade their existing set up is awesome to know.. yes the load boards work great and are very rigid when attached to the tent… It would be about $12 worth of material for you😂🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland you bet! You did a great job on this video! Yea I need to set something up for mine with boards. I might need a pulley or something. My RTT is so heavy and it’s really unbalanced!!!
This will definitely solve or alleviate that issue
Going to get parts to build this right. Amazing video!
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment… Should you have any questions check the description for my email address… I have helped dozens of folks around the world with their build in the case that they had some hiccups… Always happy to help.
@@GatorOverland finished mine and it works great. 🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽
That’s awesome to hear… Glad it worked out… If you don’t mind, shoot me some photos of it at my email address JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Do you know of there are pullies that can connect to rope? My roof rack and tent combo will not allow me to easily put board under neath. Any suggestion?
Shoot me an email so I can get some photos and understand what you’re trying to accomplish
Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Freaking AWESOME thorough DIY video 👌🏽 Thank you.
That’s what I do… It may be long winded, but I know it will be informative to someone… Let me know if you have any questions…
@GatorOverland None now, but thanks.. I'm just gonna get my build of materials and start. I'll be purchasing the same roofnest in your video soon to explore Colorado, and storage was the one downside for all the reasons you mentioned in your video.
@@ghostfantasmo shoot me an email I have a bunch of camp info for Colorado and Utah
Jkhartel3@gmail.com
Excellent video and discussion. The square perforated tubing is very expensive. Do you think 14 gauge 1.5 inch angle iron would be sufficient?
Unfortunately the price of steel has gone up since I did the project… It was about $20 for 1.5”x36” perforated square tubing and now it’s around $40.. you could definitely use angle, but I figure it would be about half as strong for supporting a load… Not to say that it wouldn’t support the load.. Sparing no expense and providing myself the most adjustability, I went with three sticks of perforated tubing… You could technically buy one stick of perforated tubing, reserving 9 inches for the load bridal, and making four 6.75 to 7 inch long pieces to use as the ceiling brackets .. it should give you some adjustability.. but that’s how you can make it economic and still utilize it.
@@GatorOverland Thanks. I'm going to try the angle iron. It is only about 200 lb total, so 50 lbs per piece. I am going to make the load bridal from a scrap chunk of hickory I have laying around the shop.
🧠👈🏼 .. sounds like it should hold up… Feel free to shoot me some photos when you’re done, I’d like to see your construction… JKHARTEL3@gmail.com
Pics of the finished product are here: photos.app.goo.gl/Uj8Gmzg8oqCJwBme8
One problem I had was the Load Bridal getting hung up on the angle iron. Next time I would make the pully junction block thicker, allowing the Load Bridal to more easily pass under the angle iron. This would be less of an issue if I'd used square perforated tubbing for the bridal. The block of hickory is thicker.
Do you think I could use this system to lift a bed in a room?
Within capacity Absolutely!
This is an educationally awesome vid. Thx
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Let me know if you have any questions
Great video! The joists in my garage run the opposite direction so I’m trying to figure out how to do my pulley junction block. Does the pulley junction block need to be dead center between the ceiling braces?
You’ve asked a great question… Neither does the pulley junction block have to be center nor does it have to face the same direction as mine… That’s the beauty of this system… As long as all load lines are equal everything will work just fine… Feel free to reach out via email and I can help you further jkhartel3@gmail.com
@@GatorOverland hey there... my joists also go in the opposite direction as yours so i am wondering if my junction block can be lagged to a single parallel joist above it and if so, i wonder how long the board needs to be, i would guess the board would need to be at least 3" past the center of each of the outer pulleys. also, would it be enough for there to only be one lag at each end of the board.
@shawnquesta8356 please reach out to me… I’m happy to help you. It doesn’t matter which way your joist go in most cases. I have plenty of photos from viewers construction to refer to.
Jkhartel3@gmail.com