Hi, I just bought this tool for my 2010 corolla S. It has 550 Amp new battery and new alternator. (Both battery and alternator are about 1 month old) on my test it says pass on both but my charging ripple shows 9.99Mv. Is that 9.99Mv too low? Just wonder since it acted completely dead on cold start this morning. Thank you
You may have a worn or corroded ground or power line, check for corrosion around your battery, alternator and all other general wiring and clean the terminal connectors good. You could also have something that's drawing power from your battery when the car if off. Let me know what you find.
You need to know internal resistance to show real health of the battery. Internal resistance is directly related to the sulfation build up on the battery plates.
How do you feel on the AH testing capability. I know AH has 20min 5mn ratings. I have a really high end trojan cycling agm-27. Trojan says 560cca and 89ah. This tester is showing 943cca and 149ah. Trojan makes great batterys so the cca being more doesnt suprise me but the ah rating is really high
a multimeter can test the battery without a load and if the vehicle can turn over then you can measure the volts again to see under load. However, if the vehicle cant even turn over and you cant put a load on the battery then you need a load tester to see what the voltage drops too
Hi, I just bought this tool for my 2010 corolla S. It has 550 Amp new battery and new alternator. (Both battery and alternator are about 1 month old) on my test it says pass on both but my charging ripple shows 9.99Mv. Is that 9.99Mv too low? Just wonder since it acted completely dead on cold start this morning. Thank you
You probably maintained them well. I do also. Most people don't, so I would not blame the battery in those cases as it's likely poor "care" that killed the batteries prematurely. Especially if they're FLA batteries and the electrolyte levels weren't checked on a regular basis and they got low, WAY too low maybe. I have this tester, too, so hope it's decently accurate. -- BR
That Battery Tender Load tester? The Viking said CCA was 253, the load tester shows 200-something, you just have to guess, but it’s at about the spot for 250-ish. What the Viking does that it can’t do is tell the internal resistance, test the actual crank voltage, test the charging system, etc. Being that the voltage readings on the Viking are in line with readings from the volt meter I’m confident in the accuracy for my applications. Note: that I’m speaking of this specific unit. There’s no guarantee all Viking Digital testers are calibrated as well. I would love to test that, but don’t have the resources to start buying masses of testers to find out
@@kev-reviews How is it checking the crank voltage? That hunk of plastic cannot take 1000s of watts of heat even for only 10 seconds. Even a single1000 watts for 10 seconds is 10kilojoules. When you test the battery using the old one, it puts a large load on the battery. That's why it is so big and has the vents. There is an element in the middle that is low resistance and puts a huge load on the battery for like 10 seconds I haven't measured the resistance of mine, but I would think it would drop at least 200 amps. It shows the voltage too while that is happening (that's what the meter part of it is). This generates a lot of heat. What it doesn't test is the internal resistance, which is important for the health of the battery. I know a lot of people and mechanics use these electronic ones now. They are cheaper and smaller than the old style ones. But I just have a hard time believing it is doing anything more than measuring the internal resistance or putting a load on the battery for a millisecond and then using the voltage drop along with the internal resistance to come up with the health state. OTOH, the battery may act in peculiar ways which the sensitive electronics within can analyze. Just doesn't seem right. But I've never done any reading on how they work.
@@tarstarkusz Testing the batteries internal resistance does not require super high current loading of the battery. Once you know the internal resistance the tool calculates with good precision what the internal resistance is at that time. The other load tester can only test 100 amps of load. Internal resistance tells you the absolute maximum that the battery could possibly put out with that measured internal resistance. I have one of those basic load testers and tested it and it only draws 80 amps which is 20% lower than stated load.
Working fine
It fits in the small Apache 2800 case too
I'm a Harbor freight shopper. I like a lot of their stuff. Specials are tools
I noticed the Diehard battery
Show reminders of the movie❤
Great video! Thanks!
Hi, I just bought this tool for my 2010 corolla S. It has 550 Amp new battery and new alternator. (Both battery and alternator are about 1 month old) on my test it says pass on both but my charging ripple shows 9.99Mv. Is that 9.99Mv too low? Just wonder since it acted completely dead on cold start this morning. Thank you
You may have a worn or corroded ground or power line, check for corrosion around your battery, alternator and all other general wiring and clean the terminal connectors good. You could also have something that's drawing power from your battery when the car if off. Let me know what you find.
I have the HF resistance tester. It gives good results.
You need to know internal resistance to show real health of the battery. Internal resistance is directly related to the sulfation build up on the battery plates.
How do you feel on the AH testing capability. I know AH has 20min 5mn ratings. I have a really high end trojan cycling agm-27. Trojan says 560cca and 89ah. This tester is showing 943cca and 149ah. Trojan makes great batterys so the cca being more doesnt suprise me but the ah rating is really high
New battery and my State of charge is showing 54a%
That can happen if it sat on the shelf for a while before it sold. That’s why I always float charge a new battery.
Can’t you use a multimeter to test te battery and the alternator?
It won’t give you a full picture of the SoH or the CCA output
a multimeter can test the battery without a load and if the vehicle can turn over then you can measure the volts again to see under load. However, if the vehicle cant even turn over and you cant put a load on the battery then you need a load tester to see what the voltage drops too
Hi, I just bought this tool for my 2010 corolla S. It has 550 Amp new battery and new alternator. (Both battery and alternator are about 1 month old) on my test it says pass on both but my charging ripple shows 9.99Mv. Is that 9.99Mv too low? Just wonder since it acted completely dead on cold start this morning. Thank you
the 50 buck Rural King batteries are now 55 , at any rate i have used 2 of them and got 5 to 7 years out of them - just sayin
Congrats. I’ve never seen them go beyond a couple of years, but maybe the local store gets the bottom of the barrel models
You probably maintained them well. I do also. Most people don't, so I would not blame the battery in those cases as it's likely poor "care" that killed the batteries prematurely. Especially if they're FLA batteries and the electrolyte levels weren't checked on a regular basis and they got low, WAY too low maybe.
I have this tester, too, so hope it's decently accurate.
-- BR
I have a hard time believing these digital testers are as accurate as the one shown at 0:05
That Battery Tender Load tester? The Viking said CCA was 253, the load tester shows 200-something, you just have to guess, but it’s at about the spot for 250-ish. What the Viking does that it can’t do is tell the internal resistance, test the actual crank voltage, test the charging system, etc. Being that the voltage readings on the Viking are in line with readings from the volt meter I’m confident in the accuracy for my applications. Note: that I’m speaking of this specific unit. There’s no guarantee all Viking Digital testers are calibrated as well. I would love to test that, but don’t have the resources to start buying masses of testers to find out
@@kev-reviews How is it checking the crank voltage? That hunk of plastic cannot take 1000s of watts of heat even for only 10 seconds. Even a single1000 watts for 10 seconds is 10kilojoules.
When you test the battery using the old one, it puts a large load on the battery. That's why it is so big and has the vents. There is an element in the middle that is low resistance and puts a huge load on the battery for like 10 seconds I haven't measured the resistance of mine, but I would think it would drop at least 200 amps. It shows the voltage too while that is happening (that's what the meter part of it is). This generates a lot of heat.
What it doesn't test is the internal resistance, which is important for the health of the battery.
I know a lot of people and mechanics use these electronic ones now. They are cheaper and smaller than the old style ones. But I just have a hard time believing it is doing anything more than measuring the internal resistance or putting a load on the battery for a millisecond and then using the voltage drop along with the internal resistance to come up with the health state.
OTOH, the battery may act in peculiar ways which the sensitive electronics within can analyze. Just doesn't seem right. But I've never done any reading on how they work.
@@tarstarkusz Testing the batteries internal resistance does not require super high current loading of the battery. Once you know the internal resistance the tool calculates with good precision what the internal resistance is at that time. The other load tester can only test 100 amps of load. Internal resistance tells you the absolute maximum that the battery could possibly put out with that measured internal resistance. I have one of those basic load testers and tested it and it only draws 80 amps which is 20% lower than stated load.
The ancel ba101 is on sale on Amazon for 15 right now
This thing is a piece of junk. It will not give a consistent answer two times in a row on the same battery.
Mine does
Make sure your connection is good 👍.