You said if you want these specs… there from a guy who measured his 1937 d18… and then never told us where to get them… can you provide that info .. maybe? Please.. thanks for the video!
No way that the bridge plate should have diagonal grain direction, it goes with the bridge plate. Also, Martin didn't use Rosewood bridge plates until after WW2. The bridge plate is way too small dimensionally. It shouldn't mimic the bridge shape, it supports it, which means it should be larger in area. Better to use Maple anyway. Looks like you're using a radius dish to work on. The top and back have a radius built into them and that's something that starts with gluing bracing to the top and back. The radius is different for them, not a bad thing to mention. Also is a good thing to adjust truss rid from the sound hole. Very hard to preserve the peghead with a truss rod cover planted over the access to an upper truss rod access. And Martin didn't have torrified wood in their prewar guitars. That's not where they got their greatness.
The diagonal grain prevents top cracking and the plate itself from cracking. A lot of old Martins get a split in the plate when the grain is 90 degrees off the top grain. Also the bridge plate is an exact pre war martin size. Thank you
I think they did actually sand the braces too. They had a feature with Dick Boak where they stated the pre-war tops and braces were hand sanded.
Hi Chris, great video. Can you tell m where you got those pre war specs on the sheet of paper from?
Great video! Where can I get the spec sheet? DO you have an email or website?
You said if you want these specs… there from a guy who measured his 1937 d18… and then never told us where to get them… can you provide that info .. maybe? Please.. thanks for the video!
Whats you email?
I'd like to get the 1937 D18 specs too, please :)💯
I'm trying to scallop the inside of a guitar with a thumb plane to match these specs! If you could send me a copy of the spec sheet I'd appreciate it!
No way that the bridge plate should have diagonal grain direction, it goes with the bridge plate. Also, Martin didn't use Rosewood bridge plates until after WW2. The bridge plate is way too small dimensionally. It shouldn't mimic the bridge shape, it supports it, which means it should be larger in area. Better to use Maple anyway. Looks like you're using a radius dish to work on. The top and back have a radius built into them and that's something that starts with gluing bracing to the top and back. The radius is different for them, not a bad thing to mention. Also is a good thing to adjust truss rid from the sound hole. Very hard to preserve the peghead with a truss rod cover planted over the access to an upper truss rod access.
And Martin didn't have torrified wood in their prewar guitars. That's not where they got their greatness.
The diagonal grain prevents top cracking and the plate itself from cracking. A lot of old Martins get a split in the plate when the grain is 90 degrees off the top grain. Also the bridge plate is an exact pre war martin size. Thank you
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