Combustion Leak Detector Demo
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Quick demo of how to use a combustion leak detector to test your engine to see if combustion gasses are present in the cooling system. This is a good indication or a faulty head gasket or damaged head or block. This particular kit was purchased from Harbor Freight but here are links to similar kits on Amazon:
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit
amzn.to/2Vrnfd5
Block Tester BT-600 Replacement Combustion Leak Test Fluid 16 oz
amzn.to/3ChyAx1
Thank you for the video. No goofy music. Right to the point I could follow all your information. I really do appreciate it.
Thank you
Nice video, made me aware that you can do the leak combustion test on the reservoir instead of having to directly do it at radiator cap. Which if your car has one gets around needing to suck out some coolant from radiator to not have it accidental suck up on your tester giving you false readings. Easy test that rules out alot of major expensive compression issues and leaks possibilities when troubleshooting.
Glad it helped
@ShinyFastLoud is this definitley confirmed? This will still work testing it at the reservoir versus the radiator?
@@macknumber9you just watched him do it…
Glad I found this video and comment I’m about to test my car right now and wasn’t looking forward to draining my coolant
I just did the same test on my Duramax about an hour ago. I let it warm up about 5 minutes then started pumping the bulb. It slowly turned a greenish yellow withing about 2 minutes. I stopped pumping the bulb after a bit and it was actually bubbling up into the tube on it's own. Time for a head gasket job.
That's not fun
This tester doesnt work on diesel engines :)
@@thegamepz why not?
@@thegamepz why?
it's inaccurate on diesels, you can read the instructions
Mine keeps sucking up coolant and contaminating the test fluid any tips
Possibly remove some coolant first to lower the level
Great video. You show every step clearly.
Thank you
I know it worked, but I also want to add you should cap off the end of the overflow tube so that you arent just sucking outside air in
Good point
Me personally I just bought the cheap testers to test out an old car to rule out a few major compression/leak issues. I doubt the old car problem is anything like this. It's more a fuel pump or injector problem that will eventually kill the dieing car. But wanted to comment on great video. Made me aware of reservoir tank instead of radiator main cap to use for test!!! So I can bypass having to suck out a few inches of coolant with a baster tool of some sort .
Glad it helped
it's crazy watching videos from just three years ago and seeing how much cheaper everything was. well, more accurately how much stronger the dollar was.
After you’ve completed test are you ok to immediately take off block tester turn of engine and allow car to cool down before putting cap back on?
I just put the cap on.
These are great for testing head gaskets that fail between coolant passages and combustion chamber but it still doesnt rule out head gasket failure completely...
The other HG issued would be quite obvious when oil and coolant mix
@@bogathlorant there's more than 2 ways a head gasket can fail
@@macknumber9 Can you explain what this does rule out and what it doesnt when concerning the head gasket? I'm trying to troubleshoot a situation of my own.
This method is effective for most cars as this method may catch head gasket problem early. This does not work on 3rd generation Prius though (2010-2014) where head gasket failure is notorious. .The failure is not caused by overheating and many have their own theory as to why it happens from egr valve to excessive engine cycling from the hybrid system turning it off and on. The last of 3rd generation which is 2015 did not have anymore premature head gasket failure so problem was addressed. A tell tale sign of a 3rd gen prius head gasket failure is occasional misfire and starts with slight loss of coolant. It could take even a month before you need to top off the reservoir. Then it gradually gets worse it is at its early stage and at this time this blue dye test won’t detect it. In fact by the time it detects it, it is usually too late to fix the head gasket problem. I actually lost several customer who owned 3rd gen prius this way. I now own a hybrid / EV repair shop and work on a lot of Prius and very experienced with its head gasket problem. For the most part though this method can detect early stage of head gasket failure but not on 3rd generation Toyota Prius. Even dealers sometimes fall victim to this method on Prius as I had several customers had told me. This method is probably the best way so far in catching head gasket failure early. If your car is loosing coolant mysteriously and there is not obvious leak use this and it will most likely detect it. If it doesn’t then it’s time to go to group chat who owns your type of car because nothing beats experience at the end of the day.
did you have milky oil on the dipstick? white plumes of steam coming out the tail pipe? what other symptoms did you have?
It did not. Other symptoms were it would lose coolant and overheat.
Make sure to plug off the overflow tube to get a good vacuum
Like the man said, wait for the thermostat to open and watch for any white smoke from exhaust system too, if you can. Coolant can get into the combustion chamber and be burned off thus the white smoke.
Hello, my son drove his truck with little fluid in the radiator. It overheated and he had to pull over and add fluid. Now his engine light is on and when we took it to O'Reillys they checked it and said one of the cylinders is over heated. They recommended we do this test but the fluid doesn't change colors. If that means nothing is wrong can we just reset the engine light? After adding the fluid, the truck ran fine and we were able to finish our 3 hour trip. It's still running as normal but the engine light is on. Should we be concerned or start checking for something else? BTW, we ran the test for about 5 mins at normal temperature. Thank you very much
Reset the engine light and if there is still an issue it will come back on.
@@ShinyFastLoud Got it. Will do. I'm hoping and thinking everything is fine because I drove it all day yesterday without any issues. Thanks again🤘
@@mrorbit2u results?
When I try to use the block tester I have, the coolant just rises and either overlflows, or gets sucked into the tube. It rises slowly after turning the car on. Only takes like 15 to 30 seconds for it to be not touching the tube to being inside it, or overflowing out the sides? What the hell?
Important thing you point out. If the tank is too full the tool will suck coolant up (instead of the air/gasses) which basically invalidates the whole test.
use a baster to suck out coolant from the reservoir until it isn't touching the bottom of the tester. take the tester off, put the cap back on the reservoir, and idle car for 5 min. let cool enough to remove cap and try again. save the coolant you sucked out and replace after test (assuming it wasn't overfilled to begin with)
I have milky oil on dipstick, white smoke at exhaust, but block tester did not change to yellow. I waited until thermostat opened. The car does start to over heat after 15 mins. STILL BLUE on the block tester. 1995 BMW 525i
Milky dipstick means coolant getting into the oil/crankcase. This test is for exhaust gases in the cooling system. You can have one without the other depending where the head gasket failed . With that said, if you get white smoke out the exhaust I would also expect this test to show exhaust gases in the coolant.
Dude how many arms do you have?
ha!
You loan the tester and fluid at autozone and when you return it you get your money back
The tester, yes; the fluid, no.
Can confirm they will give you a used fluid to rent as well for 9 dollaes
Fluid must be bought. 9 bucks or so. It’s good for many tests.
Keep in mind, the test kit at Harbor Freight DOES NOT come with the fluid. You have to buy the test fluid separately.
Correct, which is why I include links to both the tester and the fluid in the description.
If fluid doesn’t change colour no gasket problem. Any issue re using fluid. Says not. I think can.
probably
right at the very end of the video when the tester was removed, there was white smoke coming out of the tank. Is that steam only or was that also a sign of exhaust gas?
Not sure but based on the test I would assume part of it is the exhaust gases
I followed your instructions and the manufacturer instructions as well but the bulb doesn’t suck any air from tank the bulb stays squished and it fills back up when I remove it from the tube. Does this indicate something other than a bad bulb or tube?
You have the bulb upside down.
Same here!!!
Brilliant video. 👏
A small bottle of that blue stuff at Repco Australia costs $84!
OMG!
Can this test be done through the exhaust pipe? I did it through my radiator cap but no luck. I insert the tube into my exhaust pipe and immediately turned yellow.
The fluid turns yellow when it detects exhaust. Of course it will turn yellow if you go straight to the exhaust
😂
This really made me giggle. I really hope this is a joke
can i test my Duramx this way after 30 minutes of driving it ?
Can you use it on reservoir overflow? Or does it have to be used on the radiator?
Did you ever find an answer for this?
@@mattmarinelli5241 have not yet
Samcrac has a video where he used it on the reservoir.
@@Laika052 can you link the video PLEASE!!🙏
th-cam.com/video/aFzWU0-2OPw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nnzYASxCnUklSQ-E
When I searched for a video to diagnose recurring excess air in the cooling system of my Discovery 2 4.6, the first result is a guy testing his Discovery 2 4.6. I mean, what are the chances?!
lol
How long do you keep squeezing before saying it is good and no issues if it doesn't change color?
The instructions on mine said 2 minutes
@Justlikegrimace
The light turned off temporarily and came back on
I then flushed the system and added bar leak fix, and what is interesting almost 200 miles later, there is no coolant leaking, but the engine light is still on.
My reservoir tank clearly has micro cracks and you can see it seeping out when its running( tank is brittle and think this is the cause of my puddles directly below) My question is can I do this test knowing that there is a obvious contamination to the tank or should I replace the reservoir and then do this test? I already purchased the new tank. I Notice that directly underneath my tank where the hose is it is wet and you can clearly see drips.
In theory, the only concern I can think of is if the reservoir was so leaky that the tool couldn't create enough suction to draw the gases out of the tank and through the fluid. Other than that, the leaky tank wouldn't skew the result. The air from outside the tank wouldn't make the test fluid change color.
Please help me man. 04 Audi 1.8T. I ran the block test all the way up to 60 degrees celcius, no change in the fluid color. I read that the thermostat should be open, so I revved the engine to heat it up, though with the cap off of the reservoir, the coolant started expanding and shooting out of the reservoir blowing my test kit out. After that I reset the test but could not get another reading without coolant entering the test kit. Is the test to 60 degrees enough to determine the head gasket is good? There is no way I can get my engine warm enough with the reservoir cap off, for the thermostat to open
Cap off turn on the engine n turn on the heater full blast once it’s hot u know the thermostat has open n coolant is flowing in the system enough for u to get a reading
Does the engine have to get very hot. Luke warm or any temp ??? Thanks
Just hot enough for the thermostat to open. You can always dip a finger in the tank (at your own risk) to feel the temperature. If the coolant to too hot to keep your finger in it for more than 1-2 seconds then your thermostat is open and coolant is circulating.
@@davemccage7918 thanks !!!
If I’m loosing coolant fairly rapidly would this test be good? Or is there something else I need to test?
Check under your oil cap to see what colour the oil on it is. If it is a coffee colour that is milky looking then coolant is getting into your intake manifold/cylinders So new head job or head gasket replacement is needed.
Check for external cooling system leaks after the vehicle has rested/cooled down and when the engine is hot at idle when it is under pressure. Look for puddles under the car, loose hose connections split pipes as coolant under pressure will be forced out of these areas.
White steam coming from the tail pipe means coolant is getting into the cylinders or the exhaust manifold so at best area head gasket or worse a head hob/replacement.
If there is coolant on front passenger side foot well floor then your heater radiator core is leaking. You can easily bypass it by joining the heater core inlet pipe to the heater core outlet pipe but it means no heating in winter.
If you are losing water that quickly then it must be going externally somewhere and if it ain't coming out of the overflow tank or any of the external places such as pipes or the Welch plugs in the engine block onto the ground then trust be exiting via the combustion or exhaust cycles and a new head gasket is the very minimum thing needed.
Pay the extra to get the head checked by a head machine place to see if it is cracked or warped and if need be get it machined if possible.
Great video. Thanks !
what did you do to fix the leak
head gaskets
Hello, where can I bought only fluid ? 👀👀👀
www.amazon.com/Lisle-75630-Test-Fluid/dp/B000I17Z8Q
I got a yellow out of the radiator and blue out of the expansion tank ? I don’t know why?
not sure why
Maybe it sucked up coolant from the radiator? Or maybe the epansion tank never got gasses from the radiator due to it not getting warm enough for the cap to open to it. Just a thought.
Does it detect oil in the coolant?
I do not believe so.
About how long should I keep it on the reservoir while pumping it? I don't want to get scorched. How long did you have the engine running before you began testing it?
Start with the engine cool and the cap off. Then start the vehicle and let it get up to normal operating temp. On this particular car I had it run for a few minutes before filming.
@@ShinyFastLoud thanks man!
The instructions say the engine needs to be warm which means the thermostat needs to be open in order for the test to be valid. The test instructions also say to pump the bull for 1 minute.
Just a heads up. You can rent the device at ORilleys and return so really just be out $8
I just performed this test on mine after hearing gurgling noises in the cabin and losing a very small amount of coolant. The color change to pink? Anyone with some advice???
On a ford edge?
Why do you need the kit ? Mix the liquid with some of the coolant , wont' that work ?
I believe that there are test strips to check your coolant for cylinder gasses. Not sure that this test fluid would work in that scenario, also, this test is capturing the exhaust gasses that percolate though the coolant.
Question am I suppose to keep the test tube on the coolant tank for 5 minutes without removing the tube from the tank??
Reason I ask is because I wanna know if I did it right or not.
I don't think it really matters. The more dramatic test result happens once the engine is up to temp and the coolant is circulating through the head. If you apply the test tube at that point its going to detect the gases if they are there.
@@ShinyFastLoud Thanks so much fir this! I've been using the radiator & it's been giving me a hard time because I've always sucked up extra fluid & had to restart. I had no idea that the reseviour could be used as opposed to the radiator. I know using the radiator is best for results, but since this works it'll save me the trouble of using a turkey bastor to draw out coolant.
Mine never even bubbled like that
Dude, u forgot to say that engine must be warm up
good point
how warm? can i test it after driving it for 30 minutes?
With engine cold, remove radiator cap or overflow reservoir cap. If necessary, suck out some coolant so coolant level is at least 2 inches below the cap. Start vehicle and let it run. After 10-15 minutes (depending on the outside temperature), the dashboard temp gauge will be in the normal range and the thermostat will open -- you will know when the thermostat opens because the top radiator hose will suddenly get hot. Then use the tester.
...and the fluid is not hitting the bottom of the tester?...
You need to make sure the rubber bottom of the tool doesn’t reach/touch the coolant when you insert into the coolant tank or radiator. If it touches instead of drawing air through the test fluid it will suck up the actual coolant which invalidates the test.
@@ShinyFastLoud When I put the tester on there is no coolant, and it just rises in like 15 to 30 seconds till it would be sucked in, or overlflow out of the top of the radiator cap? Whats going on, please?
@@moderaterevolution504 same issue... most of these testers are doing coolant tanks connection instead of radiator itself.. for them it doesnt get sucked into the tester but anyone with radiator connect, runs into this.. i tested 4 times, squeezing the entire period of 2 to 3 mins and all was blue Until the radiator level rose Into the tester and made it green.. color change here is from contamination not exhaust gas... hard to use test!
😮
I advise you to be faster in explaining and more practical, for this reason I and all the videos, speed up and you can benefit from something
Thanks for the advice
I thought that your presentation was great