These are the main things I look for when I buy a slipjoint knife. I'm sure there are other things, but these are what stand out to me. Thanks for watching.
I think you hit all the points really well. One that is important to me is the rounding and thickness of the scales. Many cheaper knives have bulky scales that make the knife feel heavy and clumsy. Too much swell in the middle of the handle. That may just be me...? What do you guys think?
@IMBW89 Interesting...I never thought about how being underwater affects the rusting process. It sounds like your pivot has gunk in it. I like to soak the whole knife in mineral oil over night. That usually loosens up and clears away any debris. It is also good for bone or wood handle scales. It's the medicinal non scented stuff you can buy for cheap at your local drug store. Thanks, that's a good question.
Two things many fail to check are the liners, and the spring pivot pin. Many think brass liners are just for looks, and just preference, but it isn't true. High grade brass, such as Case uses, is self-lubricating. Steel isn't. Over time, steel wearing against steel will cause a knife to have blade wobble, however tight the knife is when new. Low grade brass, such as Rough Rider uses, is duller than high grade brass, is easy to spot, and doesn't self-lubricate, but it's still better than steel. The liners are crucial, and no knife should have nickel silver liners, or ordinary stainless steel liners. If brass isn't used I won't buy the knife unless 420j2 steel is used. Buck actually uses a form of this in their Chinese made knifes, but they use it for their blades, which is a first, I think. At any rate, other than brass, 420j2 is the only common steel that will withstand years of constant opening and closing without developing blade wobble. Collectors, of course, will probably never use a knife enough for liners or pivot pin to matter, but people who do use a knife often will soon regret not having a good pivot pin, and high grade brass liners. Another thing to look at is the spring pivot pin. If it's thin and flush, or if it's steel, it's cheap construction. That pin takes tremendous pressure each time the knife opens and closes, and is the most likely part of the knife to break from normal use. It should be thick, round, made of brass, and should protrude. This means it's an expensive pin, and will not break. With the pivot pin, the self-lubricating property of high grade brass is crucial. But, again, some of the most expensive knives out there don't use a brass pivot pin, and this means you're buying looks, not longevity. The half stop is a safety feature, but it's not for when you're intentionally closing the knife, it's for when you're cutting something, try to do a push point cut, and the knife accidentally closes. A half stop has saved a lot of nasty cuts. As for the bolsters, I have no idea why some top end knives use stainless steel. It's cheaper than nickel silver, and doesn't wear as well in your pocket. I suppose they think it's prettier, but in this case, I again prefer function over fashion. The very best bolsters are brass, but only a few makers are willing to go to the expense of using high grad brass for bolsters. I think it's worth it, and I'm willing to pay more for brass bolsters, but they may be overkill on the average pocketknife. Take a look at a Buck 110 and tell me brass bolsters aren't worth it. The sad thing is that many top end knife companies have done away with brass altogether, but still charge a fortune. If customers ever realize that brass is not about looks, but about longevity, this may change. To those who actually use knives, these things I've mentioned matter, but the steel used for the blades also matters greatly. Most knives I see compared to Case, even some very expensive ones, use 440a steel. This isn't a horrible steel, but it's far from great. In their stainless knives, Case uses a proprietary blend of 440c, and it's the best stainless steel made, outside one or two of the new so-called "super" steels. In some ways, it's better than any of the "super" steels. Some Chinese made knives claim to use 440c, but none of them do. They use the Chinese equivalent of 440c, which has too little carbon, and way too much chrome, to be anywhere nears as good as Western 440c, which is still not as good as the blend Case uses. Chinese 440c is almost identical to what we would call a medium grade 440b. Case, on the other hand, is the highest grade 440c on the market. With high carbon knives, only two companies use the best steel for knives ever made, which is 1095CV. These companies are Case and Ka-Bar. Too many overlook Ka-Bar when considering slip joint knives, but Ka-Bar is one of the oldest slip joint knife makers, and their Dog's Head slip joint knives are absolutely beautiful.
Another great video. Just wondering, have you tried one of the newer Northwoods knives from KnivesShipFree? David Shirley founded Northwoods in the 70's to keep quality alive & bring back some old patterns. He contracted Queen to make them. He passed away, but Derrick (owner of KnivesShipFree) bought the trademark with the promise of continuing the quality. He also used Queen, but a couple years ago, he switched to GEC to build them. His latest offering, the "Fremont Jack" is OUTSTANDING! Derrick altered the blade shape from a drawing that Bill Howard proposed. The result is a stubbier wharncliffe/sabre grind. On a 3.75" sleeveboard frame. The ivory's all ready sold out, but he still has some available in stag, bone & camel bone. It WILL go down as 1 of the greatest work knives in history, but classy. I bought the last ivory he had. Loved it so much, I got another in stag & will buy 1 each of the others. They're THAT GOOD. GEC quality. I'm very picky like you, and this pattern has become 1 of MY all time favorites. Bill & Derrick really knocked it out of the park with that "Fremont Jack". If anyone buys one, let me know. I'd love to hear from ya!!! No, I'm not a rep for them, LOL. ( The other patterns are good too, but this one is THE HOLY GRAIL.)
I've carried pocket knives for almost 60 years and collected them more than 20. I've just recently came across the term "slipjoint." When did this begin?
I've noticed the use of the word slipjoint in the last three years along with people using and collecting Gec.Also patina is something new to me in this world. I've went along with it and collect GEC and wow what a dif.great value and really nice knifes
Thanks for filling us in on what to look for. I'm certianly not a knife expert. I'm really interesed in getting the classic Schrade Old Timer Stockman. Any thoughts on that knife. Todd
Nice video! I'm just starting to appreciate my "slip joints" again. I have a couple pre-2003 Old Timers that have lived in my drawer for years. Probably going to get a nice Case "Stockman" soon!
Chris Con Thanks for the kind words Chris. The older Old Timers are some of the best users. I have a few myself. If you go with Case Stockman for a user, I recommend the CV steel model. Resembles 1050 carbon steel and holds a nice edge. Takes a nice patina as well. Enjoy collecting!
i love that seahorse whittler. it has beautiful color. i have a lime green one that i bought because i didn't think i'd care if i turned such an ugly knife into a user but, i think it's pretty now. though it has seen plenty of use.
I also love the seahorse whittler. It's a great looking knife. I wish they made it with Carbon steel blades. I think I remember that the reason they don't is because the master blade is too thick for sheet steel that they punch out. I guess it is a cost thing. There was an olive boned seahorse in ATS-34 made a number of years ago and some damascus steel blades I believe.
the damascus ones caught my attention but, the price chased me away. i've got a bulldog wharncliffe whittler in stag which is the same thing and it is also very nice and even has a pinned shield. i wish all companies would pin their shields which is part of why i prefer GEC.
knives save lives I'm a big fan of GEC. I think its about the only production slip joint I feel comfortable buying online without handling it first in person. Case's quality is hit or miss in my opinion the last number of years. Pinned shields are a nice touch. Blade wobble is a big pet peeve of mine on slip joints. GEC seems get it right most of the time.
gec is in my opinion the best quality production knife company as far as traditional style goes. i have a few and they are very nice. case is still good but, i agree their quality is hit or miss. i wouldn't mind having a tony bose collab knife though, they look like they might be competitive with gec as far as f&f goes.
It is hard to say without seeing it. It sounds like its acting like a friction folder. You might want to keep that one for your collection for display and get a new slip joint to use. There are plenty of options out there. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Whoever did THAT to that old Case Barlow, needs some mental help. My guess is some moron tried to do some chemical etching to resemble Damascus, and it backfired.
It is hard to say without seeing it. It sounds like its acting like a friction folder. You might want to keep that one for your collection for display and get a new slip joint to use. There are plenty of options out there. Sorry I can't be of more help.
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I think you hit all the points really well. One that is important to me is the rounding and thickness of the scales. Many cheaper knives have bulky scales that make the knife feel heavy and clumsy. Too much swell in the middle of the handle. That may just be me...? What do you guys think?
Personal preference . I actually tend to like the more bulky fat handled ones .
@IMBW89 Interesting...I never thought about how being underwater affects the rusting process. It sounds like your pivot has gunk in it. I like to soak the whole knife in mineral oil over night. That usually loosens up and clears away any debris. It is also good for bone or wood handle scales. It's the medicinal non scented stuff you can buy for cheap at your local drug store. Thanks, that's a good question.
Great video ! 👍
Two things many fail to check are the liners, and the spring pivot pin.
Many think brass liners are just for looks, and just preference, but it isn't true. High grade brass, such as Case uses, is self-lubricating. Steel isn't. Over time, steel wearing against steel will cause a knife to have blade wobble, however tight the knife is when new. Low grade brass, such as Rough Rider uses, is duller than high grade brass, is easy to spot, and doesn't self-lubricate, but it's still better than steel.
The liners are crucial, and no knife should have nickel silver liners, or ordinary stainless steel liners. If brass isn't used I won't buy the knife unless 420j2 steel is used. Buck actually uses a form of this in their Chinese made knifes, but they use it for their blades, which is a first, I think. At any rate, other than brass, 420j2 is the only common steel that will withstand years of constant opening and closing without developing blade wobble.
Collectors, of course, will probably never use a knife enough for liners or pivot pin to matter, but people who do use a knife often will soon regret not having a good pivot pin, and high grade brass liners.
Another thing to look at is the spring pivot pin. If it's thin and flush, or if it's steel, it's cheap construction. That pin takes tremendous pressure each time the knife opens and closes, and is the most likely part of the knife to break from normal use. It should be thick, round, made of brass, and should protrude. This means it's an expensive pin, and will not break. With the pivot pin, the self-lubricating property of high grade brass is crucial. But, again, some of the most expensive knives out there don't use a brass pivot pin, and this means you're buying looks, not longevity.
The half stop is a safety feature, but it's not for when you're intentionally closing the knife, it's for when you're cutting something, try to do a push point cut, and the knife accidentally closes. A half stop has saved a lot of nasty cuts.
As for the bolsters, I have no idea why some top end knives use stainless steel. It's cheaper than nickel silver, and doesn't wear as well in your pocket. I suppose they think it's prettier, but in this case, I again prefer function over fashion.
The very best bolsters are brass, but only a few makers are willing to go to the expense of using high grad brass for bolsters. I think it's worth it, and I'm willing to pay more for brass bolsters, but they may be overkill on the average pocketknife. Take a look at a Buck 110 and tell me brass bolsters aren't worth it.
The sad thing is that many top end knife companies have done away with brass altogether, but still charge a fortune. If customers ever realize that brass is not about looks, but about longevity, this may change.
To those who actually use knives, these things I've mentioned matter, but the steel used for the blades also matters greatly. Most knives I see compared to Case, even some very expensive ones, use 440a steel. This isn't a horrible steel, but it's far from great. In their stainless knives, Case uses a proprietary blend of 440c, and it's the best stainless steel made, outside one or two of the new so-called "super" steels. In some ways, it's better than any of the "super" steels.
Some Chinese made knives claim to use 440c, but none of them do. They use the Chinese equivalent of 440c, which has too little carbon, and way too much chrome, to be anywhere nears as good as Western 440c, which is still not as good as the blend Case uses. Chinese 440c is almost identical to what we would call a medium grade 440b. Case, on the other hand, is the highest grade 440c on the market.
With high carbon knives, only two companies use the best steel for knives ever made, which is 1095CV. These companies are Case and Ka-Bar. Too many overlook Ka-Bar when considering slip joint knives, but Ka-Bar is one of the oldest slip joint knife makers, and their Dog's Head slip joint knives are absolutely beautiful.
James Ritchie I sure learned a lot from your comments...I want to back this hobby up 50 years and start over..thanks
Bear and sons also uses 1095 in some of their knives.
All the USA Schrade Old Timers used 1095CV except for the Lockbacks and even some of the earlier ones had it .
When you said that was a 70’s Case I was thinking 1870’s the way that was looking.
I learned a lot from this. Thank you.
Thank you Mary. I'm glad it was helpful.
Another great video. Just wondering, have you tried one of the newer Northwoods knives from KnivesShipFree? David Shirley founded Northwoods in the 70's to keep quality alive & bring back some old patterns. He contracted Queen to make them. He passed away, but Derrick (owner of KnivesShipFree) bought the trademark with the promise of continuing the quality. He also used Queen, but a couple years ago, he switched to GEC to build them. His latest offering, the "Fremont Jack" is OUTSTANDING! Derrick altered the blade shape from a drawing that Bill Howard proposed. The result is a stubbier wharncliffe/sabre grind. On a 3.75" sleeveboard frame. The ivory's all ready sold out, but he still has some available in stag, bone & camel bone. It WILL go down as 1 of the greatest work knives in history, but classy. I bought the last ivory he had. Loved it so much, I got another in stag & will buy 1 each of the others. They're THAT GOOD. GEC quality. I'm very picky like you, and this pattern has become 1 of MY all time favorites. Bill & Derrick really knocked it out of the park with that "Fremont Jack". If anyone buys one, let me know. I'd love to hear from ya!!! No, I'm not a rep for them, LOL. ( The other patterns are good too, but this one is THE HOLY GRAIL.)
Very well done. And very informative
Just got a 20s 40s case jack knife for 15 bucks on Ebay but nothing like the titanic knife there but sure is cool.
Nice find! I love those old case knives.
Great review on these knives.I had a Case Barlow .That Mini Trapper is a Beauty.I sure enjoyed this Review.Thanks
I am a slip joint joint newbie. Thanks for the great education. My first one will be delivered tomorrow. Northwoods Forest Jack in Calico. Subbing.
Good advice Nice knifes!
I've carried pocket knives for almost 60 years and collected them more than 20. I've just recently came across the term "slipjoint." When did this begin?
I've noticed the use of the word slipjoint in the last three years along with people using and collecting Gec.Also patina is something new to me in this world.
I've went along with it and collect GEC and wow what a dif.great value and really nice knifes
Great Video Dude. Keep up the great work. Nick.
@thatspapsknife63 Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate you watching.
Thanks for filling us in on what to look for. I'm certianly not a knife expert. I'm really interesed in getting the classic Schrade Old Timer Stockman. Any thoughts on that knife.
Todd
If you can find an older US made Schrade, I highly recommend them. They have carbon steel blades and are very well made.
Good vid! I got addicted to case knives and spent all my savings on Case knives,like 10k.
Nice video! I'm just starting to appreciate my "slip joints" again. I have a couple pre-2003 Old Timers that have lived in my drawer for years. Probably going to get a nice Case "Stockman" soon!
Chris Con Thanks for the kind words Chris. The older Old Timers are some of the best users. I have a few myself. If you go with Case Stockman for a user, I recommend the CV steel model. Resembles 1050 carbon steel and holds a nice edge. Takes a nice patina as well. Enjoy collecting!
i love that seahorse whittler. it has beautiful color. i have a lime green one that i bought because i didn't think i'd care if i turned such an ugly knife into a user but, i think it's pretty now. though it has seen plenty of use.
I also love the seahorse whittler. It's a great looking knife. I wish they made it with Carbon steel blades. I think I remember that the reason they don't is because the master blade is too thick for sheet steel that they punch out. I guess it is a cost thing. There was an olive boned seahorse in ATS-34 made a number of years ago and some damascus steel blades I believe.
the damascus ones caught my attention but, the price chased me away. i've got a bulldog wharncliffe whittler in stag which is the same thing and it is also very nice and even has a pinned shield. i wish all companies would pin their shields which is part of why i prefer GEC.
knives save lives I'm a big fan of GEC. I think its about the only production slip joint I feel comfortable buying online without handling it first in person. Case's quality is hit or miss in my opinion the last number of years. Pinned shields are a nice touch. Blade wobble is a big pet peeve of mine on slip joints. GEC seems get it right most of the time.
gec is in my opinion the best quality production knife company as far as traditional style goes. i have a few and they are very nice. case is still good but, i agree their quality is hit or miss. i wouldn't mind having a tony bose collab knife though, they look like they might be competitive with gec as far as f&f goes.
knives save lives The Case Tony Bose Collaboration knives are excellent. I have had many and they have been outstanding. Expensive, but very nice.
It is hard to say without seeing it. It sounds like its acting like a friction folder. You might want to keep that one for your collection for display and get a new slip joint to use. There are plenty of options out there. Sorry I can't be of more help.
xx indicates blemished LOL ....
Geat vid! I haven't seen a vid from you in a while. You need to make more! :)
What are some good brands for these slip joints that are affordable?
KnifeCrazzzzy look at rough rider, steel warrior, and frost cutlery they are cheap but good for the price hope that helps
@6SLipoJuice LOL... Isn't that Barlow a beauty?
Whoever did THAT to that old Case Barlow, needs some mental help. My guess is some moron tried to do some chemical etching to resemble Damascus, and it backfired.
It probably got thrown into a fishing tackle box and forgot about for a couple decades
A serrated case knife? Haha jk
Case does make a serrated blade. This one he has must of been dip in acid bc the bolsters are pristine.
1095CV Vs Nickle silver
"A little bit of corrosion!" That's like saying that Hitler is a "little bit dead." What were you thinking!?!
It is hard to say without seeing it. It sounds like its acting like a friction folder. You might want to keep that one for your collection for display and get a new slip joint to use. There are plenty of options out there. Sorry I can't be of more help.