Cheap Knock-Off Parts Kill Today's Cars!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Customer brought me their 2013 Toyota Camry with a rough idle. All this AFTER someone tried to 'Fix' it with cheap, knockoff parts and several questionable repairs! What did they do and how bad is it?
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AMD said it best: you bought a Toyota because it’s reliable. When you put cheap parts on it, it’s no longer a reliable Toyota.
Depends on the part. A Chinese headlamp bulb won't affect the reliability.
He’s definitely right. If you own a Toyota always buy a Denso alternator.
Sure it will.
Most Toyotas are not reliable. In fact they’re horrendous!
@@LibSlayer69 Maybe the new ones ever since they adopted the American ways. Same with Honda.
I had a starter go out on an 2002 Camry. Brand new was $200 so I just went to the junkyard and got one for $35. Works like a champ.
Secret tip from us Toyota Techs. The only thing that ever wears out on an ND starter is the brushes in the motor. They can be bought through Toyota for $18
The clutch in the drive gear sometimes slips too @laneeric
Was the used starter the original Toyota? Probably would be better than new aftermarket. I got a set of genuine MOPAR spark plug wires from the junk yard. They work great.
@@Stratocruizer51 yep it was a denso unit.
@DeftonesFan867 yeah most people do not realize there are plenty of crashed Toyotas that have excellent parts on them, especially steering and suspension components. Toyota designs these parts extremely well and they are built to last at least a hundred thousand miles. Take Toyota axles for example, they usually last 150k miles and cost $500/$600 new. Find a quality parts yard with a 10k mile crashed out same model Toyota and get those same axles for a hundred bucks.
That's the good thing about BMWs.
No matter how bad the aftermarket part is, it can't be worse than what BMW put on it in the first place.
Exactly. My favorite one is, "Only use OEM BMW gaskets!"
You mean the same one that started leaking at 50,000 miles? Right...
@@d47000 Well i used after market seal on BMW oil filter housing, blew in 3k miles. Just refitted with BMW part. At least original lasted 100k.
@@flybobbie1449 I've never had a problem using reputable aftermarket gaskets like Mahle.
@@flybobbie1449
You're very fortunate. By the time my 120i got to 55,000 it had leaked enough oil from the oil filter gasket to coke up the alternator. $1600 later...
Now I drive a 2005 Nissan Fuga 350GT (Japanese market Infiniti M35). It uses a bit more fuel, I average close to 25MPG with a very light foot, but I can budget an extra few dollars a fortnight for gas. Finding $1600 because BMW violated every law of engine design (like keep your electrics above the leaky oily bits) is a lot harder.
@ Yes i needed to give the alternator good clean with contact cleaner.
If the customer gives the go ahead, I'd like to see part 2 on this car - when it's all running perfectly again.
People who know the price of everything and the value of nothing are also usually big fans of "political freebies". lol
I've never seen the wizard fix anything. He just bitches about shit.
@@t5ruxlee210 what are you talking about trumpie?
Those janky woodscrew, washer, zip tie repairs are reflective of every non-enthusiast Toyota I've ever seen. It's not that the owners aren't car people, they aren't laws-of-physics people.
If you see this on any used car, don't buy the car. I made the mistake of buying a Honda like this...
Nothing is more expressive than cheap car parts.
I've had a few dozen vehicles during my lifetime, some were real beaters. Always fixed my own cars, 99% of parts were aftermarket and maybe only 10 parts were defective. Biggest problem is the exorbitant cost of labor to repair. Best thing a father can do is teach their sons and daughters how to do basic car repair.
I buy aftermarket parts on Amazon and never had a problem. I’ll buy a $20 part all day long and replace every year than pay $500 in labor.
So great to see you using content for cars with affordable tips . Your audience is more interested in everyday cars that we can afford /NOT Hoovie Supercars that no one will ever encounter nor cares about. You are awesome Car Wiz.
Oh, come on, supercars? Yes, you can afford them, but can you afford the parts and labour to fix them? This is something my dad always taught me. Wise man. RIP.
@@ZoneProfessionalGardening Ah no...I CANNOT AFFORD THEM ! !
@@billiebobbienorton2556 Who can! lol
Me neither. But these are the types of videos I like from Wizard. More Toyota, Honda, Audi, MB vids please. Throw Volvo in there as well.
Since all the Pep Boys, Oreilly's, Auto Zone, and Advance Auto Parts (Ebay and Amazon, too) came along, this problem of cheap (and counterfeit) aftermarket parts has been a scourge. They forced the smaller parts chains out of business that would have caught all these inferior parts and ceased to buy them, thus protecting their customers from this crap - and forcing us to buy very expensive OEM parts instead.
Besides the dealer, who can we buy parts from
On top of that, Ebay and Amazon are loaded with counterfeit OEM Toyota and Honda parts. That have dang near the same exact packaging.
@@davidhammond8098 RockAuto is my go to. If you know what's the OEM manufacturer you go with that every single time rather than the one you buy from a dealership.
@@AcuraLvR82thats why you only buy parts from sellers that are actual dealerships
I tend to buy factory parts when possible but you can still buy quality parts from Napa, Orelly's and Auto Zone if you verify where they are made. Things like batteries, spark plugs simple electrical parts are pretty safe when you stay with name brand. We have equipment that's over 50 years old so your options are somewhat limited when you need parts. Interestingly, hydraulic parts are still pretty easy to obtain if you go to the right place.
same for honda, oem only, i use ngk spark plugs with some Hitachi coil packs since they never been replaced on my honds fit for 100k miles and car runs better than ever before
I’m almost 61 now and I’m ready to just stay close to home and not even have a car if I didn’t still have to get to work. Crap parts, shady mechanics and overall drama around driving a car these days is ridiculous.
I have been using the same local mechanic for over thirty years. He is now 72 years old and I am not sure what I will do if he ever decides to retire.
A great way to put it..."the overall drama." People are way too confident in their abilities to drive right. I see so many abused vehicles where I live....even new ones.
@jeff - yep. Good move. I was using the same mechanic that my parents started using in 1976. He retired a few years ago. Took me a while but finally found another local shop I can trust.
I learned my lesson the hard way about name-brand MAF sensors when I replaced the faulty MAF in my '98 LS400 with a no-name aftermarket chinese unit. Shortly after replacement, the car shutoff when I was going downhill and wouldn't restart, I had no brakes and no power-steering coming into an intersection which thankfully was green and I was able to coast to a stop afterwards. When I finally got the car home, I replaced the MAF with an OEM Lexus part and never had a single problem again. Go OEM and nothing else, it's downright dangerous not to do so.
That's friggin scary. Bought a distributor on Amazon, it looked good. Billet aluminum replacing plastic. Forgot about the cam position sensor inside...
I have used plenty of aftermarket MAF sensors but I only have ever been around GM cars from the mid 2000s and other cars that are all carbureted or mechanical fuel injection. Never done more than an oil change on a car newer than 07 or even opened the hood of a Toyota. You can totally unplug the MAF sensor with the engine running under load on those 3.1 or 3.4 or 3.8 or 5.3 powered cars and it will continue running. Never had a problem with any one that lasted significantly less than another. I do at least always buy from Rockauto. I have only used cheap knockoff parts from Amazon when nothing else was available, which does happen with some cars particularly 1970s and 80s Subarus. Everything I've seen about Toyota's is they are way too sensitive to the type of parts used. They work well when everything is working but really work badly when a part is slightly out of spec and you are basically forced to pay tons of money for Toyota parts. Where on a GM car you could get a $20 part from Rockauto and it would work just as well as the original.
That’s a problem within itself if one part can cause all those things not to work.
People should be able to sue these who sell this crap! But I hear alot of the OEM stuff is starting to be the same! of course some OEM is made in china and rebadged !
@@theodorgiosan2570 But the upside to using Denso, Aisin, Toyota OEM whatever is the parts don't go bad for 200k+ miles anyway lmao
Another good piece of advice is to keep any old part you replace, (not something like a gasket, obviously), until you're sure the NEW one is OK!
Car wizard, I learned my lesson with aftermarket parts. The price difference is very tempting, I bought an aftermarket water pump which was $45 instead of the Mitsubishi OEM which was $130 and it immediately leaked out of the weep hole and wouldn't stop. I had to redo the entire job again, including the timing belt, just to change out the defective pump. It will cost you MORE in the long run just buy the OEM please!
The harder it is to replace, the LESS you should even consider cheap parts.
The problem being when the OEM parts are also ass, you're screwed either way, it's becoming more common too
Aftermarket CAN be fine. There is quality aftermarket and there is (a lot) of junk aftermarket. OEM is best, but sometimes you can find good quality aftermarket parts for 1/2 the price. For many suspension components, I wouldn't have any issue going aftermarket. When you start doing anything engine/electronic related, best to stay with highly reputable brands.
Same for me with my SC400/Toyota Soarer with the 1UZ-FE. OEM Toyota part for the win. Stripping down the front of a 1UZ-FE is not a fun job at all.
OEM is not available for any car much over 10 years old.
Learned my lesson the hard way. My 2014 Nissan Altima just crossed the 200k mile range and the check engine light came on due to MAF sensor issue. I bought a new sensor, installed it and light was gone. However, the light came back on and it was giving me more issues. What I ended up doing I cleaned up the old sensor and put it back and car was running back to normal. Never buy from Amazon again!!
When it comes to sensors, always buy OEM.
I do buy from Amazon, but only OEM parts
How do you maintain Altima transmission do you change fluid?
@@allenparke5874tons of fakes on Amazon
@@ceylontea5877 just drain and fill it like an oil change on that model. The damn dipstick piece where you refill is a pain in the ass to remove. The Nissan NS-2 fluid sucks. I put Valvoline Maxlife in all the cars I service.
“Buy once, cry once” as they say. Learned my lesson with cheap parts years ago, but always good to be reminded
Who are they?
@@LibSlayer69 ah another Trumpie 🤡. Traitor
@@LibSlayer69this can't be a serious comment unless you're like 12
I love the fact that you’re working on a normal everyday car.. not a foreign super car…I see this kind of craftsmanship from my sisters boyfriend when he shows me….ya..I replaced that on mine…look😂😂😂😂
not a supercar, but it is a foreign car...
The same problem is affecting OEM parts. Eric at South Main waited a day to get a Motorcraft ballast resistor for an F150 (tried the dealer and Ford discontinued that part.) When he installed the sealed and new looking part the next day, it didn't work and every terminal was in the thousand ohms or M ohms. He had to go NAPA and that thankfully checked out right in the mid-range of all specifications. He's smart enough to know that was just good luck for this part. If he can't get an new OEM mass airflow sensor, he goes to the junk yard now.
Thanks Mr. Wizard, and Mrs Wizard also! Turns out fixing it the right way the first time really is better!
Worked at AutoZone 23 years. Almost everything made in China or Mexico.
Nothing like taking a precision engineered automotive machine and turning it into a Rube Goldberg POS. Stacking washers to make a bolt fit? WTF!?!
I bet this car owner is an accountant that works for a major company.
Like a mentor told me: New does not mean it’s good! As for ‘ever sense’! Yep seen that before!! All it took was doing an oil change on an old Chevy sedan. One of our techs put it up on the left, changed the motor oil and the guy came back with a broken rear coil spring. That’s all it took to loose a customer.
Retired Toyota MDT. Even with side work over the years. Always use factory parts. Hell, Toyotas even hate different spark plugs than NGK/ Denso original ones.
No joke with the battery. I helped a guy out who had a 60’s Pontiac GTO. It was in mint condition and signed by John Delorian. And the wiring harness and everything got fried because the shop forgot to put the bracket back on. The battery had shifted and grounded on the side of the fender.
I use a bungy strap if different battery then factory
When I had a Saabaru, I replaced the 02 sensor with a cheap parts store special. It ran even worse... When I went in and monitored the readings, the sensor was reading BACKWARDS. Not backwards like a reversed wire, it read rich as lean and lean as rich, so it was compensating in the wrong direction and making the car run like garbage. Spent a few bucks more on a Denso and problem solved. Never thought I'd encounter a sensor that works in the opposite way it should.
It's bipolar 😜
I drive volkswagens, and i STRICTLY use bosche sensors for anything i replace(bosche is the manufacturer for lots of volkswagens sensors). Its definitely more expensive, but it is for sure the best way to go. Either oem or figure out who oems for the company. Another great video.
Lol...people used to show up with outboard boat motors that wouldn't start. "It ain't the carburetors, we rebuilt them!" Nine times out of ten, carburetors.....
Toyota are really reliable, but when it comes to sensors you HAVE to put Denso parts on it. They won’t work with any aftermarket ones. If you want to be cheap, go to a junkyard and find a used Toyota/Denso part. Even with 200k miles it’ll work better than a brand new aftermarket.
Bad parts are a waste of resources and energy.
"Buy once, cry once."
These aren't just bad they are of corrupt state origin which should never be allowed import status.
@@confederatenationalist7283 So much for freedumbbbbb from the proud white nationalist.
🏳>🏳
Seriously. Doubly so if you're doing the repair.
@@confederatenationalist7283Yep. Or they stole the intellectual property via hacking or the Thous@nd T@lents program and then flooded the market with clones, underselliing everyone domestic. ("Dumping") It's so dishonorable. Cheat to win.
You are worth every penny you charge. I did a timing chain in a Chevy equinox 4 cylinder, I used Amazon part because of price, cheap vvt gears did not work. Ended up taking it to a local shop, [ I trust them because of previous work] and they replaced the parts with oem and it fix everything
These car owners are the ones you see behind Autozone working underneath jacked up with 2x4s.
Just be grateful you've never been really poor.
@@0HOON0 They are poor due to foolish spending. Cost this customer more to have it repaired correctly in the first place.
They are replacing those lifetime replacement parts for the 3rd time.
Hey, Wizard. When a tensioner is vibrating at idle rpm, it’s most often the free-wheel of the alternator that’s at fault. It’s usually frozen.
Even the Big 3 use some parts from China . The thing is , they are made under strict quality control with engineers and company executives from America , overseeing things . But your right Wizard , crappy quality caused this . Thanks for your good advice . 🙂
Ya think???
@@ozarkliving7263 I think 😄
Imagine thinking that Chinese quality standards are worse than US quality standards?
This isn't the 1980s, champ.
Your opinion is in tune with "But your right".
In contract manufacturing one gets the quality one is willing to pay for, including "boots on the ground" inspection at the factory. The lousy knock off sensors and mechanical parts are built in the same country as the iPhone. From a trip in Mr Peabody's wayback machine, I remember when the country of origin to make fun of was Japan. A willing industrial complex and W. Edwards Deming changed that.
@@tim3172 the 1980's ?
What a timely video! I just replaced a drive belt tensioner with an inexpensive one (Let's just say, non-OEM; you know where it's from.) and it failed the first time I compressed it to put the belt on. Lesson learned!
I owned my own independent repair shop about 50 years ago and we never bought OEM because back then we knew the failure of the part would also be the failure of the new OEM part. Aftermarket parts then we’re always better quality. I was fortunate that my shop was only 3 miles from a major parts supplier Called CEW (Cosworth Engineering Works) . It was later bought out by World Pack. After that parts that would be in a Robert Bosch box would be slipped into a world pack box and cost considerably more.
Times of changed where cars last upwards of 300,000 miles versus 100,000 miles and the quality of parts has shifted to the manufacturer versus aftermarket.
If I were in business today, I would only buy OEM.
That "L" shaped piece holding the battery down is a Unistrut Galvanized L Bracket and is fastened to a short piece of Unistrut Channel that is fastned at the bottom to another Unistrut L Bracket. Unistrut is typically used to support electrical conduit and control panels or plumbing pipe in building construction.
I've done that in the past too 😓. My first Mercedes Benz was an ML and i needed an MAF sensor. The one from Amazon was $24 and the one from Bosch was $125. Took a shot on the Amazon one of course. It was so terrible. I no longer do Autozone or Amazon. Only OE.
I like how thorough you are. 👍🏻
In a crash that battery contraption might cause the car to go up in smoke!
Oh, it would. One rear-ending of the next car, and the self destruct sequence initiates.
When I was young and healthy enough to recover, I had an Interstate battery blow up right in my face... It was strangely quiet, the boom was way off in the distance, and then I staggered into the Jack in the Box I was at and by a miracle the manager had been a paramedic, who forced me to spend 20 minutes washing my eyes out in the back sink...
I'm speechless... I have no idea what would possess someone to secure a battery like this. The level of jank on this thing is too much, I need to wash my eyes out.
@@MattExzy Guarantee it was the same person who used the zip ties on the front end...btw, I absolutely hate these massive front ends and rear ends on everything now that are nothing but rubbery plastic held on with plastic push pins...they are even showing up on pickups and suv's now....
@@MattExzy The person that performed the work on the modified battery restraining device has no business touching mechanicals on any car.
Just before watching this video i watched one at another TH-cam Channel and the exact same situation was discussed - defective new parts. Even a Motorcraft blower motor resistor was bad ( open ). And it came out of an unsealed plastic bag. What a PITA !!
Just put in some TRQ plugs and coils in my 2016 Buick enclave, no issues…………
YET😅😅😅😂😅😂😅😂😅
I agree, OEM/Quality parts are the best choice in the long run to fix it right the first time, which is what I typically purchase. But from my experience Aftermarket Parts that are not Electronic/Sealing/Safety related, they will usually will fix the problem, but consider it might not fit/look OEM so it's best to do this with a beater car.
I bought Max Brakes from Amazon for my car. Rotors warped in a week. Pads would lose all braking force after one hard stop. I was broke and learnt my lesson.
And yet I’ve used maybe 20 sets and all work well
Learned lesson - bought powerstop brand brakes off of Amazon to save some bucks... 2 of the front pads, one on each front wheel, delaminated/separated from the backing plate and the front driver side one ate the caliper piston when it fell apart. So it went from cheap new brakes to a whole new front driver side caliper, new pads (bendix this time) again and turning the rotors again. Sage advice on cheap parts, thanks for the video, DIY is big again with everything being so expensive, wish we could all afford a good mechanic but we do what we can with what we got.
I buy those parts from rock auto. They seem to be ok.
Buy quality and brakes last me 4 yrs (80 000 miles).
Never show up at a dealer and ask for a part. The dealer adds a huge price increase to keep the part in stock. Instead, order online from the manufacturer and have the part shipped to the dealer. The price is much cheaper.
Correct. I find that genuine Toyota parts ordered online and shipped to the dealership are usually 20% or more less than a dealer. A staff person clued me in on the discount.
I save 90% on parts by going to the junkyard 😂 it’s the benefit of living in the rust belt, vehicles die early because nobody undercoats the frame and then I get unlimited parts to pick from
I find a lot of OEM parts on eBay
What manufacturers sell parts directly? It's often a case of having to go through dealers.
Sweet! a Car Wizard video. No scamtastic products or services, no steering wheels!
Wizard dropping knowledge in this one folks... pay attention
20 years ago, we had about 10 to 15 manufacturers for replacement parts. Each parts store had their house brand, some shared brands, and then you had dealer parts. Generally, you had budget, regular, good aftermarket, and OEM. Now in the digital shopping age, we have hundreds if not thousands of people making/remanufacturing parts. The standards aren't there because most will never bother with sending a part back to some eBay seller. The quality isn't there anymore. The only safe bet is a handful of aftermarket companies or OEM.
Optima batteries used to be good but have become trash in the last few years.
I heard the same thing.
And those battery tray parts were only a junkyard trip away.
Quality in almost everything has gone down! I got a box of wooden matches from my local cigar shop the other day, every stick was brittle and broke and wouldn’t stay lit. Found a box of wooden matches from the 80’s in my tool box… stayed lit and match stick was sturdy.
Disagree I have optima red top in a car that I don’t drive much that sits in the weather 4 years old. Cranks great every time. Good battery
@@Rick-vg2pz 4 years old. There's your answer.
You are absolutely correct! Only Denso or Toyota brand parts for Toyota!
it is Unistrut brand bracket and L bracket. It is used to hold pipe, cable trays, etc. industrial supports.
I'd wager it's actually the "super strut" home Depot brand unistrut knock-off
I was going to comment on the battery hold down but I scrolled through the comments and found yours, very good.
I never skimp on maintenance even before I drove Toyota.
Take care of your ride and it will take care of you and is way less likely to leave you stranded 💪
I bought a made in china starter for my 99 maxima - an amazing, reliable car. It fit and installed, worked for 3 days, then it caught fire and burned the car to the ground. Lesson learned.
I feel your pain. My 97 Maxima was the best car I've owned. It made it to 300k before it needed some expensive suspension repairs. If I could rewind, I would pay double to put it back on the road.
😥
@@0HOON0was it the automatic or the manual transmission?
@@Mabeylater293 5 speed manual with LSD that I swapped out of a junkyard I30.
Like many of the other comments, I've learned my lesson on cheap parts. I just went through a six month saga with front struts for my Dodge Journey. I tried the cheapest ones I could find from Amazon. They failed within three months. Bought better ones from Amazon. Failed within three months (Again! I know, I'm an idiot). I just replaced them for the third time with quality ones from Rock Auto. I sure hope these last. I expect they will.
Just want to put this out there as an ex AutoZone employee, always check the parts you get there as the amount of cores and returned parts I'd find on my shelf's was infuriating.
I've had problems with them pulling the wrong part number and selling it to me. Now I know why the thermostat would never fit😂
@melissasmess2773 that tends to happen most when the employee doesn't put in the correct info into the app AutoZone uses, the other times it can be due to the wrong part being in a box.
They ship everything to the store in big plastic bins and the amount of parts I'd have to damage out due to boxes breaking or some genius putting chemicals in with screw drivers...
I don't really miss working there though I gained a lot of experience while there, I prefer my current job delivering pizza, and I make more money now too.
The rotors are probably worn from previous low pads and just thru new pads on without turning em or replacing them 12:11........ im guilty of that😮
8:25 this is at the time where I am convinced that someone didn't care about what parts to put on the car or how they put it on.
I love your blatant honesty David.
I don't get why you would get the wrong part and have to modify it. That takes more time and higher chance of failure. You don't save anything in the long run!
Had this happen with cheap new ignition coils. Tried to save a buck. Went through 3 sets before I said screw it and bought the set that was one step up but three times the price. Never had an issue after that.
Shade tree backyard diyer. This is called automotive mending/bandaiding! This is not automotive repair. This is how you make a reliable Toyota into a Chevy Cruze. 😂
You can try and make a Cruze reliable but at the end of the day you just have a slightly less crappy Chevy Cruze
besides the battery strap... looked like a perfectly fine DIY repair to me. im sure it ran fine too, but that rough idle and dash light was just too annoying for someones wife, and according to them worth the $1200 to fix. im sure car "wizard" agrees too!
@@morrisl7That is the deal with a Toyota. Put quality parts on and drama will be minimal.
I have that same year Camry for my commuter car. Mine has 220000 on it and my lowest cylinder compression is 195 and I even have one that is 210. New is 214. My goal is 500000 miles. The thing just goes and never breaks. That is one of the best years of the most reliable car ever made.
The failure of aftermarket component parts, has little to do with their pricing.
What most people don't know is that automotive component parts are covered by proprietary design rights (aka patten rights, privacy rights etc.). Therefore it's illegal to reverse design replacement components and offer them for sale in countries who provide protection for such rights. So, one must purchase OEM components for a period of time, starting from their initial inception. Further, aftermarket component manufacturers must pay licensing fees to the OEM in order to make and sell versions of said components.
...
Part 2 is the construction of vehicle components no longer protected by such rights. This is where vast variation in component construction and therefore component quality, can come into play. It's therefore best to purchase such components from historically reputable, aftermarket suppliers. For instance, Echlin is a reputable aftermarket component supplier who manufacturers components for NAPA. Contrary to that are auto parts found on Amazon, which are manufactured in China, and provided through various aftermarket sales organizations, bearing names not historically heard of in America. Such components are a crap shoot, relative to their operational quality. Its not exactly "Cheep" to replace (for instance) a fuel pump 3-4 times in order to avoid purchasing an OEM component or a component from a reputable after market supplier, in order to save on component costs initially.
...
Part 3 is planned obsolescence.... this is where the OEM designs a component so as not to have longevity past a certain number of cycles of operation. OEM vehicle manufacturers are in business to sell vehicles. Therefore their designs today are not intended to last longer than 90k to 150k miles for most vehicles. Further, their designs expire and are replaced every 5 years. Lastly this time sensitive control is maintained via software, as most components today are CAN network components, which operate via software. Eliminate the software and the vehicle becomes inoperable.
There's no software in my Oldsmobile ECM.
With the rotors, ive seen people change the pads but not the rotors. I say change both at the same time.
It works great with organic pads. I used to do it every six months on my Subaru doing delivery work 😅
Anything to do with emissions, always go OEM
100% Sensors and electronics never seem to work from these aftermarket companies. Always try to buy the OEM fuel pumps for a vehicle. Parts store fuel pumps are junk.
when i worked at a toyota dealership the masters would frequently say stuff about cheap parts and tell you to only put oem parts on a toyota. at the time i thought it was because of course THEY would say that, they want the work but as time went on i started to realize that its much better to spend the money on something YOU KNOW will work instead of a crapshoot.
I don't know that even older American cars would do that well with cheap knock-off parts, but newer ones definitely are more sensitive to the performance of sensors and the like. Out of curiosity, I looked up the air flow sensor for my Subaru on Amazon, and found ones ranging from $22 to $150; the real part from Subaru parts costs $289. I could probably find the real Denso part a bit cheaper from other suppliers, but if I needed to replace mine I definitely wouldn't go with the $22 option, since who knows how much damage it might cause if it even fits. At the very least, I would end up having to buy a more expensive one anyway to make the engine run right again.
MAF sensors are very sensitive. There is about zero chance of any Amazon MAF sensor working or lasting on your vehicle. OEM only
I needed to replace a purge valve for for my 4G Acura TL recently. I could've got one from Amazon for $25 or one from Honda for $170. While the cheap part was tempting, I chose Honda. If an engine part has an electrical connector on it, I always replace it with OEM so I don't have to deal with the headache a cheap part will most likely cause.
No question on this. Sensors and electronics from Amazon are a waste of money. There is too much precision needed in making these parts. Chinese companies will not take the time and money to dial them in with quality parts. Modern cars will produce a check engine light if voltages are off just a bit.
It’s better to fix the vehicle right from the start with quality parts than it is to cheap out on the repairs.
The saddest part is that often when a car ages, parts starts to not become available anymore, and you are forced to choose knockoff cheepos or no parts at all.
Sometimes the reason is that manufacturers are trying to make repairs harder by not supplying parts, to force you to buy new or make more complete assemblies with less information (Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics / Ivan showed an Audi where he fixed it by greasing up and freeing a seized part, while the dealership wanted to swap the turbocharger)
The vertical support for the battery is made of unistrut parts!
My car got "ziptied" by the quickie oil place as a quicker way to take the plastic bottom pan off without worrying about the bolts. I now do oil changes.
You buy Toyota for its reliability, why tamper with that with inferior parts?
They're expensive parts for a reason.
To save money? Most people driving Toyotas bought them as used cars not new. Dealer parts are expensive because of the huge mark-up. Many of them are just generic parts in a 'Toyota' box.
You want to be cheap?
Kia and Hyundai are popular for a reason.
Here in Australia if you own a 2001 Camry, a lot of drive train parts are not available from Toyota.
@jayjaynella4539 I've always heard obtaining replacement auto parts was a pain in the ass in some countries.
Toyota not being exclusively a North American thing, doesn't make much sense why.
It's not just Amazon. My mechanic changed compressor 3 times - Chinese made all from one of the big auto companies. Took it to a dealer and got a factory one.
Bud laughed at me for what I paid for the replacement OEM fuel pump for my Mustang compared to the EBay pump he purchased for his Explorer. After four months, his EBay fuel pump died while on a family vacation.
That's a good temporary fix.
Never ever ever buy cheap ebay fuel pumps. I had a customer request a cheap pump from me. I declined to repair it with a cheap ebay part.
I let him think about it and the next day he gave me the go ahead on a name brand pump.
I was unable to find an OEM fuel pump for my son's vintage Jeep, so I bought the best parts store pump I could find. It worked great for 2 weeks and began whining like a spoiled child.
A friend long ago told me that if I were to buy a particular brand of weed eater, in order to save myself a lot of frustration to place it directly in the trash can as soon as I got it home. Good advice for low cost auto parts also.
My experience has been to get my parts from Rockauto. Very rarely have I had anything go wrong with parts from there; this is over a span of 4 vehicles.
I’ve received sketchy parts from RO; packaging says made in Mexico but the part has China stamped on it, old stock parts with faded & damaged packaging… ect.
@@jondoes7836No company is perfect. Really, what it boils down to is doing your ("your" in the general sense here) due dilligence & RESEARCH what's needed & not needed.
I've had good luck with Rockauto as well. Their site allows you to look at all the parts available that fit your car and you can make your own decision after reading reviews and comparing prices. I've returned items also with no issues. I can get it as fast from RockAuto as Autozone or Napa dealers .
@@jondoes7836 Bought some stabilizer links from Rock Auto for my Ridgeline, Mevotech blue booted junk. All of the boots were cracked and rotting in just over a year and out of warranty. A waste of time and money.
@@jondoes7836 well did it work or not? good retailers like RA weed out the garbage parts which is why ill use them over amazon anyday when using cheap parts.
I learned that lesson the hard way. I bought an aftermarket MAF sensor, IAC sensor and fuel injectors. Less than a year later, destroyed my engine. OEM every since.
Can confirm you gotta go OEM with Toyota.
I have had luck with quality parts on Toyota like Denso. Not putting a China maf from Amazon on the car😂
@@mph5896 Eff the China car parts. I always use OEM on my Toyota.
never cheap out on a car.. always put name brand parts in it... cars today have a 100 computers in them... and all them computers know if you put junk in them and tell you so by running bad..
@@mph5896 Yes, but Denso is OEM for Toyota (actually the brand that manufactures most of their parts stock), were the same company at one point, Toyota owns 25% of Denso still, outside of that, good luck.
Depends on the part.
Amazing that someone can bring in a car they worked on, failed at their job, and want a real tech to fix it. That's a gutsy move!
Lol. The Unistrut battery bracket.
Chrysler LH cars are also really picky about what you put in to replace a failed part. Got an '02 Concorde someone had previously worked on and had to figure out what all the OEM suppliers were for things I wouldn't have expected being used to much older cars. Rock Auto was a good resource because they would identify the OEM makers in their catalogue. Once all the bad stuff was out, the car ran smooth and got great gas mileage after that.
I think it would have been cool to see the difference in how it ran with the cheap parts vs OEM
Completely agree. I know his channel isn't like the style of SMA, Rainman nor Legit Streetcars, but i always feel that part is missing.
I’d love to see a follow-up from the Car Wizard with proper Toyota OEM parts fitted. And a test drive at the end would be the cherry on top.
I learned this lesson the hard way with my 2001 Highlander v6. Replaced the knock sensors with ones from Amazon. The job was a pain in the arse and the code came back a month later. I was PISSED!
I brought a cheap O2 sensor from EBay hoping to solve a bad gas mileage. The sensor didn’t last a year. Put back my old 10 year original O2 sensor and it is still good. Stick with OEM parts.
My new O2 sensor costed over a hundred bucks. Amazon had them like 30 bucks. I paid dealer the higher price cause needed 1 today not in 2 weeks. Turned out the cat was junk. Stuff loose and shaking. Took a long bar and crushed it then dumped out. Put back on and runs amazing. More power and better mileage without that hard clay like stuff inside.
When the Opitma batteries were made in the Untied States, they were great batteries and I too would swear by them.
When the company was bought out by Johnson Controls and manufacturing went to Mexico, the quality went downhill. I had these batteries then fail during warranty period where previously, they would last 2x the warranty period.
I have owned Toyota, Honda and currently a Mazda 6, I have never had any issue because I only use OEM parts on the cars I have owned.
But wasn’t it the OEM part that failed in the first place?
The customer is an idiot for changing the battery holder.
He might have kept the original. Car Wizard should inquire and put it back. Or get the proper one from the junkyard.
Long time Toyota owner and amateur mechanic. If the part doesn’t come from a red and white box…it’s not going on my vehicle.
Problem is they are counterfeiting the boxes. If it does not come from the dealer, it's not going on.
That's ok if you live near a dealer. Many people don't.
Don't know what other people due but I have my local mechanic get the parts from the dealer. My 18-year-old Toyota has not been to a dealer since the warranty expired.
I have seen Chinese fakes come in what seems to be the original Toyota box. Compare them carefully if you are not buying them from a trusted source.
@ I buy them at the dealership
those rotor groves are probably because they bought the pads to do a brake job didn't realize the rotors were grooved said F it put the pads on and drove, been there done that many times. zero issues the if you buy the super cheap pads they cut in quite well. yes u can get rotors turned but not on weekends and u got to go to work monday.
I’m surprised CarWizard even took on this job. If nothing else, this episode is good for home mechanics to watch before attempting poor quality repairs and then asking a pro to bail them out😂
Totally agree, OEM or OEM suppler parts only for parts in the engine bay and the fuel system only. Suspension and brakes and bearings from the few OEM suppliers in the proper sizing only. I'm still annoyed with the adjustability for most OEM suspension parts, and I end up on weird missions to get quality parts to get a proper track alignment. Who do you trust for after market suspension parts that add alignment adjustability? I seem to end up with Moog and Whiteline for Bushings on the regular.
That battery bracket is hilariously scary😂. Who would do that?
Me.
Gus and Ricky Bobby....
I bet it's a young guy's car.
A Mexican
I have one better for you. I bought a salvage Mini at a Marshall’s auction (I know; a bad idea) and the locksmith who made the key found the battery in the trunk! Since the Mini was hit in the front, and the battery compartment was damaged, someone ran new battery wires all the way to the trunk!
When working on any Toyota OEM part or it won't work you are 100% correct
I got a purge valve at O'Reilly . It did not work . I bypassed it for a bit until my daughter graduated and the car came and she left for greener pastures . I figured the valve was detected . It did come with a lifetime warranty . Now I had time to play with it to see if I could get to function properly . Hooked it back up and it worked no codes and that was 9 years ago . I suspect the electrical connection may have been a problem and hooking it back up made sufficient contact . The symptoms it showed originally were rough idle after filling it up with gas like it was flooded so vapors were entering the engine
That battery holder is unistrut.
Shocking. Not made in China.
The trouble with the Optima red top battery mount at 3:21 is that in an accident, the battery would shift and cause a vehicle fire. 🚗 🔥🫂
This Camry is a parts cannon hack job.
Just found a Toyota marked purge valve for the 2013 for $99.99 from my favorite seller on eBay. I bought from him for 15 years and it is always NOS and OEM Ford, Motorcraft, and Mazda parts at great prices. Other wise it is TRW, Federal Mogul, Sealed Power all made in USA years ago. My parts stock would stun you for 11 cars.
Auto zone , Oreilly , Napa ... All garbage low quality parts!!! I only buy my parts through the Dealership. OEM
BMW dealership: mass airflow sensor = $700 + 4 weeks delivery. FCPEuro: same OEM sensor is $300 + 5 days delivery. They are called Stealerships for a reason.