Thanks guys! This is the most helpful & complete review I’ve seen on this system. I just bought the NGX system and as I’m sure you found, the included instructions are ridiculously vague and unhelpful and the other videos i found weren’t much better including those by the manufacturer. I found it took me a lot of fussing around the first time to get the base plate attached properly and securely. I also found that the plastic saw plate clamps could be “racked” if set to apply too much pressure to the saw plate causing the saw to slip out of alignment so I totally agree with your comment about buying a dedicated saw to leave on the base once you get it set up so you won’t have to go through the whole set up process every time you use it. All in all though I agree that it’s a pretty good track system over all for the money especially for cutting sheet goods. Great review!
Good video, guys. I bought one yesterday and had some pieces end up 1/16 or so off of square. Double checking measurements pays off. After watching this I am considering the saw "bracket" piece..........
I was looking through videos on this to see if I just wasn't getting the idea of the plastic strip. You answered it for me perfectly. I'm going to do without because, as I thought, it only works if you never adjust or change your saw in the plate. Thank you.
I have the WTX clamp that I'm probably going to make a saw and router plate for but while looking into these things, I found at Menards they have a Masterforce track saw, made by the same company that makes Skilsaw, for $199 regular price, $179 with the 11% rebate. This setup is $150 without the saw so it really makes more sense to get the track saw. This would be good for a DIY guy that already has the clamp and the saw but at that point, if you're DIY enough, just make the saw plate like I'm going to. I plan to do a 2 sided plate that allows me to flip the saw around and use one side for 45deg bevels and the other straight cuts and have a zero clearance on each side.
Even as a DIYer, it wouldn't take me too many times swapping that thing around before I'd just have a dedicated saw for the base that I don't ever take off and only tweak alignment periodically. If I used the tape, it wouldn't be too many times that I'd be inconvenienced by having to saw backwards to do 45s that I'd just have a second rail.
Great saw especially th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.
Thank you for the great video. So many negative reviews of the Kreg brought me to the Bora. Been reading lots of great things about it but this video really hit it home for me.. I'm getting one of these.
You guys bring out the Bora ngx accessories and explain in detail. There are many videos about this clamp track but they don't go far enough in their presentation.
Wow! Like the comment from a few months ago, this is the most helpful review I've seen on the Bora system. I'm fairly new to woodworking and am trying to build a set of custom double doors for my home - so that has involved a lot of plywood cutting. It's been a real struggle to try and cut straight. I also like to use my Jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade for some of the thinner material and I see that Bora has a saw plate for that. I just bought a compact circular saw and I might need to get creative in fitting it to the Bora system. Have you tried to set this up with a Worx compact circular saw? The Jigsaw plate may be the way to go.
Thanks guys, first video of yours I have watched and I like your style. You don't try to hide your little mistakes, I think that is something most of us can relate too. I saw an attachment for a router and that is why I was looking for information on this. Again, thanks for the video.
I just got the NGX straightedge and saw base, and I can already see a few design flaws. I am going to dedicate a saw to the base, and coincidentally my circular saw is the same Porter-Cable used in all of Bora's images. Setting the blade up parallel to the base is hard enough, but I have ways around that. To me, the base just does not clamp securely enough to the saw. There are only 3 clamps, but 4 would be better. And no matter how much I tighten them, to the point I'm afraid they will break, it doesn't take that much force to slide the saw relative to the base and throw off the parallel alignment. In fact after just two cuts, I noticed the saw had moved away from parallel. There are no positive stops for the saw's metal base to push up against, other than the front edges of the three clamps. If nobody has any ideas on how to more securely attach the plastic base to your saw's metal base, I call this a deal breaker, and I won't use the orange base, just the straightedges.
Agree. I have a worm drive Skilsaw and it straight up isn't compatible with the base plate. The base plate is also different now than depicted in this and most reviews, or at least there's a more basic version and this is the "pro" version. The more basic version I have is not compatible with the Skilsaw because the rear clamp won't sit flush against the rear of the Skilsaw's base plate. I tried setting it up hard against the outside edge, but then I figured trying to calculate the offset and use that for everything was a waste, relative to just using the straight edge and running the saw along it.
Good review! Thanks of you I bought Bora Portamate PM-4500 Speedhorse. With this video I am getting close to buy this hahaha. I wonder if additional Non-chip strip can be purchased. I do not find it on Amazon. In case there is available to buy more and based on your comments, maybe one side of the rail could setup non-chip strip at 90 degree cut and the other side setup non-chip strip tape at 45 degree distance from the aluminum rail. And maybe the Saw plate could have two possitive positions or use a spacer to setup/adjust to both angles cut. Other option could have two Saw plates for different cut angles. Whichever option is cheapper and faster setup time. Thanks a lot for your videos and sharing your evaluation/comments. Really helpful to take a decision.
I do have to add a comment. The saw plate/sled you are using is different from the one I just purchased at Lowe's. The one I have - from Bora - seems to be a lower-end version of the one that is sold as part of the Premier NGX system.
I've used this style of guide in the past and it is better than freehanding but it has it's problems. My current plan is to buy the Bosch/MaFell track and adapt my tools to use it as it is the best track system on the market right now. The components are annoyingly expensive and BoschTools NA has failed to bring certain key components to the NA market so I will have to order some from the UK. *Allegedly* some of the Makita and Festool track accessories are compatible with the Bosch/MaFell system.
I noticed you're using it with a Skilsaw which is great news. Have you happened to of used it on the Skilsaw SPT67WM-22 or even Dewalt DWE575? Right now I'm torn between either saw, both exactly same price at Home Depot & I'd be happy with either but their compatibility with this Bora system is a deciding factor.
Great straight edge. If you're building high end cabinets you're not using this system. You probably already have a nice cabinet saw in your shop. If you're like me and just want a nice clean cross cut on the job site. The clamp alone is perfect. Wider than previous generations of Bora clamps, and will last a long time so long as you don't let some Neanderthal on the job step on it and bend it. If you've been using a circular saw for years like many of us, than chances are you know how to cut a fairly straight line even when following a chalk line. Add the clamp and there will be no use for the "sled". Chances are the accuracy between using the sled and just using the guide by itself would be plus or minus one sixteenth of an inch so long as you haven't been drinking double espressos all morning.
Question about the dimensions. What is the size/height of the clamping grip section. If I’m cutting an 18mm or 3/4 inch panel will the clamps at each end protrude beyond or below the 18mm thickness. Hopefully you can understand what I’m trying to ask. ???🧐
Maybe I'm too new to woodworking but how would you 'measure this all back up' as mentioned at 3:20, what exactly are you measuring and how?? Thank you for the review but it's abit frustrating to watch a video where I'm told 'so you actually need to make sure this is accurate, we spent alot of time setting it up.. but we're not going to show you that version or how'..
Have it for my dewalt. It doesn't work great. The rail slide gets stuck almost every time leaving me fighting with it for minutes on end and the mounting plate fits poorly. The saw lifts at the rear during a cut and I end up just ditching the base plate. I can't even use the rail with my saw unless I cut using the opposite side of my saw because the dewalt has a low motor I guess. Maybe if I bought a left hand circular saw with the motor on the other end, I could use the rail. I ended up just buying a table saw.
Thanks for your comment. I ordered the system on Amazon a year ago, but the order never arrived and I got a refund. In the meantime, I started clamping a 1/8" x 4" x 100" aluminum bar as a guide. I can get cuts within 1/128" accuracy with that method. I even cut my own 1/32" plywood edge banding from wood stock. I guess I don't need a track system after all.
I was hoping that they would actually show you how to use the clamps. I can’t find a video that shows you how to use the extra clamps. When I try to tighten it, it pulls the aluminum track upwards off the board.
OK ok so, I bought the kreg acccucut, and noticed I cannot do miter cuts, so your telling me that this one can, but if I decide to it will mess with the position of the base? man that's unfortunate,
I have the older WTX model with the older plastic sled for both the router and for the circ saw. The biggest down fall to this system is the clamping mechanism. You have to have room at the edge of your workpiece to clamp or the track just doesn't work. its so much easier to lay the workpiece (especially sheet goods) down on the ground and cut them. This thing is in no way shape or form a track saw and honestly even when using it I still typically cut my pieces long and clean them up on the table saw. might as well just free hand it by that point.
Thanks for reviewing this. How do you know how far off to offset the actual clamp when you make your cut mark? Does the non-chip strip act like your guide (kinda like the anti-chip strip on a track-saw track?) - EDIT: Nevermind. I rewatched the video and I saw the part when y''all were talking about this.
I see that the cut indicator can be moved according to the position of the saw in the base plate, but it seems like you've got to first ensure your track is square with your edge (assuming your edge is square), then make a dry run of the track along the line to make sure the indicator is following perfectly along the line, then make the cut. In this respect, it seems that the Kreg system is faster, since you just make your cut marks at either end, align the track edge with the marks, drop the saw on and cut.
Good review as always. I little $$$ but if u need its worth it. I'm to poor so I'm still using a 8ft level and two clamps if I need a straight cut....well a semi straight cut...😁. Great vid and keepem coming.
I want a system that gets that saw plate right down on the work yet keeps the saw captive to the edge guide. You would think someone would make something like this. I think this edge guide without the plate as something going for it because it allows quick lockdown. However, not being able to assemble for 100 inches without tools is a disadvantage. That's a shame!
Just go buy a cheap one from Walmart or ace and leave it in place. I think I picked up a craftsman one a few years ago for like 20 bucks. Through it on the track and it cuts just fine.
Hi I'm April and, I ran into a problem I bought a Circularsaw sled and a 50" track extension and two clamps from my local Lowes then found out that I needed to get Original rail and locking clamp system to be able to rip my 8' Bamboo flooring to size. The 2 rails didn't lockdown with the 2 mend plates and 4 machine screws because the guide tunnels were 2 different dimensions. The rectangular mend plates were to thick to fit the tunnels on the rail with the locking clamps! What should do, I can't return the extension rail because of Covid-19, how can I connect the Original rail to the Extension rail? I think I need thinner mend plates but can't find them anywhere.
They should make the video with the Milwaukee rear saw, this corded saws are old fashioned, also make a video if that plate would work with the Milwaukee rear saw.
Ugh! Save your $ and just buy a real track saw if you plan on cutting sheet goods regularly… and accurately. I used that Bora for years and struggled through. If you have a second circ saw and leave it attached so you know the offset it’s less of a pain to setup each time, but eventually too many issues. Marking the sled for quicker setup worked OK for a while, but with lots of use parts started to have issues… wasted time and materials. As far as the track and clamping system my track clamp stopped sliding so I’d have to unstick it with the tap of a mallet. Further considerations are that when working with 8’ sheets of 1/2” and 3/4” PVC, if clamps are too tight on the workpiece the track and workpiece bow… so no straight cuts. You also need your table to be less than the length of the workpiece to accommodate the end clamp. Using the Bora over the years was a complete headache for me. My opinion is if accuracy and ease of use is important to you, just save your $ and buy a track saw like I eventyally did… it’s night and day. The right tool for the job makes everything simple. Thank me later. 😂
So THINK ABOUT THIS: If these BORA Pencil-heads weren't so interested in selling you a lot of extra crap - they would have made that main clamp wider at the base - just like a DIY system - to do a zero clearance WITHOUT THE STUPID STUPID STUPID saw plate. WHAT TO DO? Well, once your saw is OFF THE BASE PLATE - you no longer have a gap to the cutting surface. You can install ANY KIND OF ZERO CLEARANCE BASE directly to the base of the saw. Simple.
It's garbage. The plastic clamping system doesn't last very long. This is good for a few jobs for a homeowner, but nothing more. The base plate is also garbage due to the clamps being plastic.
You guys are doing a very poor job explaining. Number1) how the saw fits to the guide. #2) Especially the zero clearance tape thing, completely lost me there and that is where I left your video. Just purchased the Bora system and was looking for help and you guys made it worse.
Just seems like to much fiddle fucking around. I guess you get what you pay for, trying to mirror the track saw. Good presentation, but I’m not going to buy one. I’m a furniture maker of 55 years.I have lots of tools, but it’s nice to have something like this or my track saw if I need it. Works great on job sites etc. Smaller shops it works perfect. I’m referring to the track saw, not this one your posting about.. it’s all about budget, as you know. Track saws are very pricy, but accurate and user friendly. This one is a bad attempt to copy the track saw. Again budget dictates everything.
I am impressed by Bora. They seem to make really good innovative and useful tools.
Thank you! Best review/instructions on this system I've found, and much needed since the instructions that came with it are no help.
Thanks guys! This is the most helpful & complete review I’ve seen on this system. I just bought the NGX system and as I’m sure you found, the included instructions are ridiculously vague and unhelpful and the other videos i found weren’t much better including those by the manufacturer. I found it took me a lot of fussing around the first time to get the base plate attached properly and securely. I also found that the plastic saw plate clamps could be “racked” if set to apply too much pressure to the saw plate causing the saw to slip out of alignment so I totally agree with your comment about buying a dedicated saw to leave on the base once you get it set up so you won’t have to go through the whole set up process every time you use it. All in all though I agree that it’s a pretty good track system over all for the money especially for cutting sheet goods. Great review!
Good video, guys. I bought one yesterday and had some pieces end up 1/16 or so off of square. Double checking measurements pays off. After watching this I am considering the saw "bracket" piece..........
I was looking through videos on this to see if I just wasn't getting the idea of the plastic strip. You answered it for me perfectly. I'm going to do without because, as I thought, it only works if you never adjust or change your saw in the plate. Thank you.
I have the WTX clamp that I'm probably going to make a saw and router plate for but while looking into these things, I found at Menards they have a Masterforce track saw, made by the same company that makes Skilsaw, for $199 regular price, $179 with the 11% rebate. This setup is $150 without the saw so it really makes more sense to get the track saw. This would be good for a DIY guy that already has the clamp and the saw but at that point, if you're DIY enough, just make the saw plate like I'm going to. I plan to do a 2 sided plate that allows me to flip the saw around and use one side for 45deg bevels and the other straight cuts and have a zero clearance on each side.
Even as a DIYer, it wouldn't take me too many times swapping that thing around before I'd just have a dedicated saw for the base that I don't ever take off and only tweak alignment periodically. If I used the tape, it wouldn't be too many times that I'd be inconvenienced by having to saw backwards to do 45s that I'd just have a second rail.
Great saw especially th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.
Oh man! Thanks! I picked this up and all the attachments. Your video was a great help!
Thank you for the great video. So many negative reviews of the Kreg brought me to the Bora. Been reading lots of great things about it but this video really hit it home for me.. I'm getting one of these.
You guys bring out the Bora ngx accessories and explain in detail. There are many videos about this clamp track but they don't go far enough in their presentation.
Guy's, you both did a super job on this video !!! . This one is going on my get it list right away ! thanks for being so professional !!! Paul K.
100% agreed, Paul!!!
A very good video! Thank you for your time to explain all.
Does this fit Erbauer circular saw?
Excellent review. I wish they’d have metric and imperial markings on it.
Wow! Like the comment from a few months ago, this is the most helpful review I've seen on the Bora system. I'm fairly new to woodworking and am trying to build a set of custom double doors for my home - so that has involved a lot of plywood cutting. It's been a real struggle to try and cut straight. I also like to use my Jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade for some of the thinner material and I see that Bora has a saw plate for that. I just bought a compact circular saw and I might need to get creative in fitting it to the Bora system. Have you tried to set this up with a Worx compact circular saw? The Jigsaw plate may be the way to go.
I do not have the worx saw to try. Sorry.
Thanks guys, first video of yours I have watched and I like your style. You don't try to hide your little mistakes, I think that is something most of us can relate too. I saw an attachment for a router and that is why I was looking for information on this. Again, thanks for the video.
I was impressed that two camera hogs 😁could work so well together and get through the video. Great job!
I just got the NGX straightedge and saw base, and I can already see a few design flaws. I am going to dedicate a saw to the base, and coincidentally my circular saw is the same Porter-Cable used in all of Bora's images. Setting the blade up parallel to the base is hard enough, but I have ways around that. To me, the base just does not clamp securely enough to the saw. There are only 3 clamps, but 4 would be better. And no matter how much I tighten them, to the point I'm afraid they will break, it doesn't take that much force to slide the saw relative to the base and throw off the parallel alignment. In fact after just two cuts, I noticed the saw had moved away from parallel. There are no positive stops for the saw's metal base to push up against, other than the front edges of the three clamps. If nobody has any ideas on how to more securely attach the plastic base to your saw's metal base, I call this a deal breaker, and I won't use the orange base, just the straightedges.
Agree. I have a worm drive Skilsaw and it straight up isn't compatible with the base plate. The base plate is also different now than depicted in this and most reviews, or at least there's a more basic version and this is the "pro" version. The more basic version I have is not compatible with the Skilsaw because the rear clamp won't sit flush against the rear of the Skilsaw's base plate. I tried setting it up hard against the outside edge, but then I figured trying to calculate the offset and use that for everything was a waste, relative to just using the straight edge and running the saw along it.
Im looking something to cut in a straight line at 45 degrees. Wondering if this would do the job!
Comparing this Bora system to the Evolution or Wen track saws, which would you recommend and why?
Good review! Thanks of you I bought Bora Portamate PM-4500 Speedhorse. With this video I am getting close to buy this hahaha. I wonder if additional Non-chip strip can be purchased. I do not find it on Amazon. In case there is available to buy more and based on your comments, maybe one side of the rail could setup non-chip strip at 90 degree cut and the other side setup non-chip strip tape at 45 degree distance from the aluminum rail. And maybe the Saw plate could have two possitive positions or use a spacer to setup/adjust to both angles cut. Other option could have two Saw plates for different cut angles. Whichever option is cheapper and faster setup time. Thanks a lot for your videos and sharing your evaluation/comments. Really helpful to take a decision.
We would not find the no chip strip either.
@@WorkshopAddict thanks for your response. I also visited Bora webpage and right now if out of stock. Maybe later we can give a try.
I do have to add a comment. The saw plate/sled you are using is different from the one I just purchased at Lowe's. The one I have - from Bora - seems to be a lower-end version of the one that is sold as part of the Premier NGX system.
I see you make 90 degree cut like knife through butter.
But how does it cut with saw set at 45 degrees?
Thanks Brian 😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
brilliant video but don't seem to be able to buy any of it now in the UK, I wonder if you could help me out at all
I've used this style of guide in the past and it is better than freehanding but it has it's problems. My current plan is to buy the Bosch/MaFell track and adapt my tools to use it as it is the best track system on the market right now. The components are annoyingly expensive and BoschTools NA has failed to bring certain key components to the NA market so I will have to order some from the UK.
*Allegedly* some of the Makita and Festool track accessories are compatible with the Bosch/MaFell system.
Great review
I noticed you're using it with a Skilsaw which is great news. Have you happened to of used it on the Skilsaw SPT67WM-22 or even Dewalt DWE575? Right now I'm torn between either saw, both exactly same price at Home Depot & I'd be happy with either but their compatibility with this Bora system is a deciding factor.
The saw you seen us use was the only one we had that fit well and that has since been the only saw we have tried on it. Sorry.
I was looking at this when I was at Lowes earlier--sale made
can i use this on a 9" circular saw?
Very nice tool
Great straight edge. If you're building high end cabinets you're not using this system. You probably already have a nice cabinet saw in your shop. If you're like me and just want a nice clean cross cut on the job site. The clamp alone is perfect. Wider than previous generations of Bora clamps, and will last a long time so long as you don't let some Neanderthal on the job step on it and bend it. If you've been using a circular saw for years like many of us, than chances are you know how to cut a fairly straight line even when following a chalk line. Add the clamp and there will be no use for the "sled". Chances are the accuracy between using the sled and just using the guide by itself would be plus or minus one sixteenth of an inch so long as you haven't been drinking double espressos all morning.
I have the older version of the bora saw guide. Will the saw plate work with the older model
Mine is coming in the mail from Woodpeckers this week....I’ll see how it goes.
Does the T-square attachment fit the Bora WTX or not
So which type and brand will work on the base , you never said anything about it?
Question about the dimensions. What is the size/height of the clamping grip section. If I’m cutting an 18mm or 3/4 inch panel will the clamps at each end protrude beyond or below the 18mm thickness. Hopefully you can understand what I’m trying to ask. ???🧐
Will the base plate fit my bosch gks 12v li? I'm torn between this and the bosch guide rail which is much expensive
Great review. Are the clamps strong enough? Also, I wish they were ruled...
Wanted to but this but not sold in the UK - why ohhh why???? This is way better than the Creg Seg.
Very good review answering the questions I had. Thank you.
Maybe I'm too new to woodworking but how would you 'measure this all back up' as mentioned at 3:20, what exactly are you measuring and how??
Thank you for the review but it's abit frustrating to watch a video where I'm told 'so you actually need to make sure this is accurate, we spent alot of time setting it up.. but we're not going to show you that version or how'..
Have it for my dewalt. It doesn't work great. The rail slide gets stuck almost every time leaving me fighting with it for minutes on end and the mounting plate fits poorly. The saw lifts at the rear during a cut and I end up just ditching the base plate. I can't even use the rail with my saw unless I cut using the opposite side of my saw because the dewalt has a low motor I guess. Maybe if I bought a left hand circular saw with the motor on the other end, I could use the rail. I ended up just buying a table saw.
Thanks for your comment. I ordered the system on Amazon a year ago, but the order never arrived and I got a refund. In the meantime, I started clamping a 1/8" x 4" x 100" aluminum bar as a guide. I can get cuts within 1/128" accuracy with that method. I even cut my own 1/32" plywood edge banding from wood stock. I guess I don't need a track system after all.
Great Professional review, thanks. Wonderful idea but still overpriced.
Like most tools.
What comes with?
Thank you and thank you. The tool is perfect. Love it
I brought I but the Allen head is giving me a problem. What size is it
Can it be used to rip boards?
Great video Brian and jeff
I was hoping that they would actually show you how to use the clamps. I can’t find a video that shows you how to use the extra clamps. When I try to tighten it, it pulls the aluminum track upwards off the board.
OK ok so, I bought the kreg acccucut, and noticed I cannot do miter cuts, so your telling me that this one can, but if I decide to it will mess with the position of the base? man that's unfortunate,
I have the older WTX model with the older plastic sled for both the router and for the circ saw. The biggest down fall to this system is the clamping mechanism. You have to have room at the edge of your workpiece to clamp or the track just doesn't work. its so much easier to lay the workpiece (especially sheet goods) down on the ground and cut them. This thing is in no way shape or form a track saw and honestly even when using it I still typically cut my pieces long and clean them up on the table saw. might as well just free hand it by that point.
If you keep a couple chunks of the styro insulation, you can throw that on the ground to cut on.
So do you even need the saw plate if you can just use the circular saw to follow along the edge?
No plate needed, you can just use this as a clamp on straight edge.
Can it be adapted to any saw? I have Dewalt saw
It works on most, not all.
whats that weird bendy black thing trailing behind the saw ?
How does this compare to the kreg track saw attachment?
I have no experience with that unit.
I don't like reviews where the only links go to Amazon.
smart....not real reviews
So it takes 2 men to put it back in the base, and even then it's not 100%?
yep...junk
Thanks for reviewing this. How do you know how far off to offset the actual clamp when you make your cut mark? Does the non-chip strip act like your guide (kinda like the anti-chip strip on a track-saw track?)
- EDIT: Nevermind. I rewatched the video and I saw the part when y''all were talking about this.
I see that the cut indicator can be moved according to the position of the saw in the base plate, but it seems like you've got to first ensure your track is square with your edge (assuming your edge is square), then make a dry run of the track along the line to make sure the indicator is following perfectly along the line, then make the cut. In this respect, it seems that the Kreg system is faster, since you just make your cut marks at either end, align the track edge with the marks, drop the saw on and cut.
Good review as always. I little $$$ but if u need its worth it. I'm to poor so I'm still using a 8ft level and two clamps if I need a straight cut....well a semi straight cut...😁. Great vid and keepem coming.
Sometimes that is the best way to go!
I want a system that gets that saw plate right down on the work yet keeps the saw captive to the edge guide. You would think someone would make something like this. I think this edge guide without the plate as something going for it because it allows quick lockdown. However, not being able to assemble for 100 inches without tools is a disadvantage. That's a shame!
If one of the edges the track's non-swivel jaw references isn't square and you clamp against it, it will knock it out of square.
Just go buy a cheap one from Walmart or ace and leave it in place. I think I picked up a craftsman one a few years ago for like 20 bucks. Through it on the track and it cuts just fine.
What’s the difference between the WTX and the NGX beside the handle?
What is the difference between the WTX and NGX system that will not allow the NGX saw plate to be used with WTX straight edge??
Wish Bora could have a slot to put the cord out of the way.
This or kreg?
This super review
It could be used as a square.
The base does not fit the Rigid R3205 7" saw
My man Jeff
Someone has a Bromance.
Since when do saws come in left hand and right hand models?
Since the 1970's at least.
I just bought this. Do not understand any easy method to clamp my saw into the saw plate with the parallelism any operator would desire.
Holy crap, you didn’t explain how the strip goes on or installs! That’s why I came to this video.
Strongly agree. Although they did explain what the POINT of the strip was (which is a lot better than the Bora website).
Let me break it down for you. You stick the strip to the rail and then you run the saw down the rail one time to make the cut line.
The bora ngx is the third generation clamp.
Hi I'm April and, I ran into a problem I bought a Circularsaw sled and a 50" track extension and two clamps from my local Lowes then found out that I needed to get Original rail and locking clamp system to be able to rip my 8' Bamboo flooring to size. The 2 rails didn't lockdown with the 2 mend plates and 4 machine screws because the guide tunnels were 2 different dimensions. The rectangular mend plates were to thick to fit the tunnels on the rail with the locking clamps! What should do, I can't return the extension rail because of Covid-19, how can I connect the Original rail to the Extension rail? I think I need thinner mend plates but can't find them anywhere.
They should make the video with the Milwaukee rear saw, this corded saws are old fashioned, also make a video if that plate would work with the Milwaukee rear saw.
You do realize that corded circular saws are still very much available to buy new, right?
It doesn't take much to get the cheap plastic clamps to seize making the unit useless.
I bought one of these today...."JUNK" from the word go!! Not to mention a total lack of assembly instructions worth a damn.
Ugh! Save your $ and just buy a real track saw if you plan on cutting sheet goods regularly… and accurately. I used that Bora for years and struggled through. If you have a second circ saw and leave it attached so you know the offset it’s less of a pain to setup each time, but
eventually too many issues. Marking the sled for quicker setup worked OK for a while, but with lots of use parts started to have issues… wasted time and materials. As far as the track and clamping system my track clamp stopped sliding so I’d have to unstick it with the tap of a mallet. Further considerations are that when working with 8’ sheets of 1/2” and 3/4” PVC, if clamps are too tight on the workpiece the track and workpiece bow… so no straight cuts. You also need your table to be less than the length of the workpiece to accommodate the end clamp. Using the Bora over the years was a complete headache for me. My opinion is if accuracy and ease of use is important to you, just save your $ and buy a track saw like I eventyally did… it’s night and day. The right tool for the job makes everything simple. Thank me later. 😂
The clamp is really stiff and not always reliable to unlock. Can be quite time wasting
So THINK ABOUT THIS:
If these BORA Pencil-heads weren't so interested in selling you a lot of extra crap - they would have made that main clamp wider at the base - just like a DIY system - to do a zero clearance WITHOUT THE STUPID STUPID STUPID saw plate.
WHAT TO DO?
Well, once your saw is OFF THE BASE PLATE - you no longer have a gap to the cutting surface. You can install ANY KIND OF ZERO CLEARANCE BASE directly to the base of the saw. Simple.
Looks like a crappy version of kreg accu cut
It's garbage. The plastic clamping system doesn't last very long. This is good for a few jobs for a homeowner, but nothing more. The base plate is also garbage due to the clamps being plastic.
You guys are doing a very poor job explaining. Number1) how the saw fits to the guide. #2) Especially the zero clearance tape thing, completely lost me there and that is where I left your video. Just purchased the Bora system and was looking for help and you guys made it worse.
Screw all this aluminum soft crap......the shoe and rails should all be carbon fiber, PERIOD!
Just seems like to much fiddle fucking around. I guess you get what you pay for, trying to mirror the track saw. Good presentation, but I’m not going to buy one. I’m a furniture maker of 55 years.I have lots of tools, but it’s nice to have something like this or my track saw if I need it. Works great on job sites etc. Smaller shops it works perfect. I’m referring to the track saw, not this one your posting about.. it’s all about budget, as you know. Track saws are very pricy, but accurate and user friendly. This one is a bad attempt to copy the track saw. Again budget dictates everything.
Nice review - garbage product IMO
Please elaborate.
Great review
Thanks Jim