1. Let the engine warm up completely (80°C) before revving it up higher then necessary 2. Stay in Mid Range Revs always 3. Always use clutch when changing gears 4. Regular oil and filter changes (every 5000km) 5. Don't ride short distances, all the time 6. Maintain bike suggested as per manual 7. Keep the bike clean (not necessary to use pressure washer, just a hose with clean water, motorcycle cleaner, sponge and elbow grease. Moisture can stay inside the dirt that covers your bike and make it rusty over time 8. When in storage, use silicon spray to preserve metal finishes, keep the plastics elastic and prevent rusting 9. Keep it out of the sun when possible. Sun rays make rubber and plastic brittle 10. Riding the bike regularly is better than not riding it at all for a longer period of time All these points are important if you plan to keep your bike for more than just a few years and trying to keep its value up.
Warm up yes but not needed to fully warm as the faster it warms the better So yea run it then helmet, goves ect 2 mins .. n go I do at least 10 min Very easy not just for engine, tyers brakes and me !
@danstevens2204 all piston engines have s sweet spot Is called volumetric balance, or efficency m8 And it can be different for 2 same engines any air filter or exhaust differences affect it So exactly the rpm its perfect change Its generally the flat spot between peak tourqe and power on the dyno You feel it as you drive or ride ...its where the engine seems to float on the throttle Its the rpm you want to ride at for long haul as best power least fuel As for the other 2 or realy few more engines types ....go on what are they in your opinion
25 years ago, oil change intervals used to be every 5000km. It was pretty much universal. Nowadays many new bikes come with really long oil + filter change intervals, sometimes up to 16000km. While that's all fine and good by the manufacturer, I simply do not trust the 3.2 litres of synthetic engine oil circulating in my 900cc Triumph to even last that long before succumbing to evaporative losses due to the hot tropical climate I live in. So I still stick to a 5000km interval, which works out to about every 6-7 months. One key thing most people often neglect is the coolant change, especially once out of warranty. Further complicating the matter are the bewildering types and colours of coolant that are now commercially available, from IAT to OAT and HOAT chemistries and from green to purple and every damn colour in between. These coolant chemistries are different and should not be mixed (some will negatively react with each other to produce deposits or sludge).
Most people who put loads of electric accessories on their bikes have no idea what their Stator output is and how much the standard bike needs. Extra accessories put more load on the Stator, Reg/Rec and Battery and usually shortens the life of those units.
Great tips. Common sense to me. I used to change my oil n filter every 4000 miles on my last FJR 1300. Rear diff oil at same time too. I covered 98,000 miles when I sold it and it was still like a new bike and good for another 100,000 miles.
All except the 1 minute warm up I do everything you said. My warm up routine is to keep the load low on the engine when cold. If the weather is very cold, below 10 deg then I do warm it up before moving, but that is to thaw out the windows or give the motorcycle engine chance to pull. I have never lost an engine in 2,000,000 km over 55 years, on 50+ cars and bikes. I have also never had a vehicle break down, no just once, on a Toyota I had just bought. That said I have nursed a few home. I use all my senses when driving/riding and investigate any unusual smells, noises, vibrations, we are given these senses for a reason. Like you I prepare before a trip "pppppp" = Perfect preparation prevents piss poor performance. I like videos like this because being reminded of something you know is still good, especially at my again and it is good to know I am doing what the experts do. I keep a check list with me in my little pink book which has everything in it. Passport, money, cards and pink book....you can buy anything else you forget.
Simple, common sense advice that is 100% accurate! Keep up the great work! No nonsense, no BS. I’ve been riding over 50 years and the only problem motorcycles I had were the ones that I abused😢. Take care of the machinery and it will take care of you 😊
l used to owen my truck , had it from new , done 800,000 km in 3 years , changed all filters & oil every 6 weeks , toke care of it in the same way you explained for your bike , never had any problems with it at all. i treat all my bikes cars and vans the same way still today , great advice dear friend .
totally agree buddy, i am heading the 1 million KM on Motor-Bikes next Year. Most of my Bikes I bought used and cheap with higher milage . After a proper Inspektion i rode them most of the time in mid RPM. Regular Oil AND Filter change and a bit of loving care. Non of those Bikes ever let me stranded on the road. keep the rubberside down
spot on on every point. I used to have 2-3 bikes at a time, and i didnt have the time to give them equal love. i ended up ignoring/neglecting many of them this way. I am now monogamous, only one bike at a time, ride in any weather, follow appropriate maintenance and certainly dont wash it as much as i used to. As a matter of fact, the only thing i hate more than cyclists, are motorbikes that dont get used.
I just Don't want to Ride in winter Too much Salt on the Road that will Destroy a Motorcycle unless you Are a Fanatical Cleaner. My Bike is off the Road 3 Months of the Year Is that Harmful to my Engine?
Always nice to listen to your thoughts. Living up here in the north (Sweden), one advice is hard to follow - to ride continously. At the moment I have about 40cm of snow outside the garage.. ;-)
I have been riding and touring on & off road all around the world for 40 years and this man talks sense!! Keep the bike simple, learn about and look after the basic bike elements and go out and enjoy the bike within the limits it was designed for. 👍 Currently own a yamaha T700 and ktm 890 Adventure R. Keep up the posts thank you.
Sadly, many people/riders don't even open the manual. That is # 1 in my book. Thanks for this video. In 35 years of riding, I never had a bike at any shop for internal issues.
A good idea is to add a magnet in the oil system - drain plug or external on a spin-on oil filter. The tiny porous metal shavings work harden as they circulate so taking them out ASAP is a good idea. Usually these small metal fragments are too small to damage the engine as anything of damaging size is taken out by the filter, but it's a handy safeguard.
Here in Michigan USA most cars rust out before they wear out because they put salt and chloride on the roads in the Witner and the humidity is very high .
I have three bikes, and each one has its own purpose. My 2003 KLR650 that I’ve had since new, is for day trips, and has done a few vacation adventures. In 20 years of ownership, the only major thing I’ve done to it was a carburetor rebuild at 46,000 miles. My 1972 Honda CT90 is for running errands and camping exploration. It’s on original engine, 30,000 miles. Just bought a new XR150L as a light trail machine and back roads cruiser. It’ll get the same care that my other bikes have gotten, and have a long service life. I agree with all of your methods, and might add that proper winter storage is crucial to longevity. Before storage, install fresh oil and filter, fresh non ethanol fuel, add fuel stabilizer, keep on a float charger, clean and lube the chain, wax chrome and painted surfaces, and store indoors, if possible. Good video!
I do all you already recommend. It blows my mind seeing people abuse and neglect their hard earned toys. I mean yeah have fun and use them for what they’re made for but going forever between fluid changes, never hardly checking it over before a trip, and rev bombing or riding gears near redline all the time wow. I work hard for my money I want my stuff to last!
I own an 11 y.o. Honda BeAT Scooter (1 Gen, Carb Type) mainly for city driving with minor 2 hour province trip, yet still it revs and rides like brand new. My simple secret? I keep it all stock, changing parts before reaching it's life span / not reaching breaking point (original honda parts), and change oil every 2,500 km (instead of 4000 km in manual) because oil is cheap. This video is really SPOT ON SIR! THANKS!
I completely agree with the electrical system point of view. With the exception of some very much touring oriented bikes, with large engines, the alternators are not meant for having much additional devices plugged in. I'd say refrigerator and espresso machine must be left at home.
Good advice. I used to have extra lights and even had a setup for charging my mobile. The lights had loose contacts. For the mobile charger, the wire was visible outside. I removed both of them, but I still miss the charger but hey it's time for a new motorcycle and those 12v sockets are neatly integrated these days
Great advice, as a mechanic I have always preached regular oil service, 50% max rpm for long periods, never cut into a factory wire harness, and yes a used engine versus a seldom used engine is likely in better order.
"Grab your favorite drink and stay with me" is a cool invitation to sit with you, in your shop. Exactly how I felt. English is not an issue for you, as, it is neither my language and I easily grasped each and every word and thoughts you conveyed. Your narrative is concise, to the point, with sense and very educational. Humble on its core. Keep the good work and thank you.
' Preservation ', is the watchword. I try to incorporate this thought into everything I do in respect of myself and the bike. It's worked so far... Ride safe and happy travels 👍
All good advice. Especially about regularly use the bike. I own 2 bikes and a classic car (‘66 Mustang convertible) and have done all of your 5 things for many years. I recently bought a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200 back from a friend who had stopped using it for about 3 years. It took a lot of work to get it running and riding right even though it had been stored indoors. The carbs were seriously gummed up. We also own a 2016 Audi Q5 as our “sensible” car. Funny, the most reliable vehicle of them all - that ‘66 Mustang!
If you are serious about making your engine last, you need an oil temperature gauge...for knowing when your engine is ready 'for serious action ' and when it needs a break (whether air, water or/and oil cooled).
l live in Spain, own a 2014 Street Triple 675. l always let the engine run at tick over until two bars on the temperature gauge show, then ride at moderate speed and revs until the working temperature is reached. l change the oil and filter long before the recommended intervals, Plus perform inspections/maintenance... Sympathy for the engines mechanics pays dividends long term....
Hello Pavlin! I agree with most of your tips, also from experience, over a milion quilometeres in various veicles and no damaged engines Just let me add one important thing: the breaking in of the engine is also very important in the long term relyabiliti and oil consumption of an engine, the engine needs load in order to set the rings properly, so wen getting a new bike please change the oil after the first 3 to 5 hours (yes this is enhough especialy in todays bikes) and please dont run the engine in low rpms... no red line of course but give it at least 75% , you will be glad you did it in the future! nice video my friend! keep up the good work!
Definitely change your oil when it’s hot Will definitely get all any metal shaving out and definitely put another filter on I change mine every 4000 miles And yes, riding every day best idea Nice video, keep the good work Up
I agree with you. I have Tracer 7 2021 with 104 000 km and never had a problem. Stil original wheel bearing and forks seals. Engine runs like it did on the first day. 👍
Have not jetwashed any of my bikes. Brush the grit from rear shock area, rad and wheels then quick rub with baby-soft wet wipes all over which are excellent for removing grime. Different if off-roading though.
I couldn’t agree with you more on every single thing that you said. With oil, I always try to change it between 4000 and 5000 km. Yes, I’ll be honest I have been on trips before where I passed 5000 km even in one case I went to 8000 km but once in a while and also not being in a place where I can just change it. I did it as soon as I got to a place that I could change it. You’re so right about the accessories thing . This past weekend I saw something that just made me laugh. as I pulled over to have a coffee. there were a few bikes that were there. and one of the bikes in all honesty was not a bike. It was accessories with two wheels. Accessories that I bring if I’m doing a long trip or two bags that hook the back of the bike and also a tank bag and that’s it. The accessories on this one. Oh my word it was like I said accessories with two wheels or a shop that was on two wheels. When it comes to something like cleaning the chain, I try to do it on a regular basis . But if I’m ever in a situation where I have been writing and it has been raining a lot and there’s mud on the ground, I will try and usually do clean the chain right after . But the one thing that I don’t do very often is detailing and cleaning the whole bike itself . I know there are some people that are very anal about that and try to keep the bike clean like it was the day they picked it up. And yes, I will wash the bike twice a year maybe three times depending on how dirty it is if there’s a lot of money on the ground if it’s been raining a lot. But otherwise I just ride it. But also when I do wash it, I try not to use a high pressure water spray. If a high-pressure water spray is available I try to keep a distance of at least a meter and a half so nothing is spraying directly and too hard on all the electrics.
Running an over square engine, where the bore dimension is greater than the stroke by a significant amount, at lower engine speeds, actually causes more wear on the thrust side of the piston, particularly in the higher gears that are over driven, lower than 1:1. Knowing the power and torque curves of your particular engine is important in understanding where the optimum engine revolutions for power delivery. For example if the intercession of peak power and torque is at 6500 rpm, and you’re in sixth gear at 5000 rpm and need to accelerate, it's better to shift to fifth, to optimise the power delivery. This value varies with every engine, but essentially it's best to not to lug any engine. Know the performance curves and operate within them, not above or below will reduce wear.
I recently bought a xt660z 2009 model with 1 owner from new, 4 service stamps ,and only 3400 miles on the clock ,I hope to have many happy years out of this bike and it happened to be black ,just like your old one ,keep the excellent videos coming many thanks 💪🏴👍🍻
@@motorcycleadventures It was useful and your remarks about owning more than one motorcycle is spot on. My GS get used all the time, my Triumph Speed Triple, 1,000 miles per year and my Yamaha XSR900 only covered 300 miles during the last 12 months 🙂
Exactly the same Pavlin !❤ I do this with my engines ,if you wake up in the morning it’s also not possible to run sprint from the bed and if you run sprint you also not go in the one Second sleeping and and ,engine parts im change before it’s broken because the are old or because of the many miles
thank you. ı have a xt 660za 2015 model. she has 46000k kilometer. i'll use like you. Thanks to your videos, I realized that the rodage has just finished 😀
Excellent, valuable and to the point rules. I have an Africa Twin CRF 1000DCT; Honda says to change the oil every 8,000 miles (approx. 13,000 kms). Since I had the bike I decided to change the oil and both filters and o-ring (DCT model) every 4 to 5,000 miles. Learn from my mistake; I'm still kicking myself over riding the bike across USA continent (total of 6,500 miles) with right on 8,000 miles on the oil when I got back. I thought I could have changed the oil before I left but it only had not even 2,000 miles. I SHOULD have changed it at a friends place in SoCal, pretty much half way through the trip, when the oil had just over 5,000 miles. Why? When I got back home and changed the oil it was very dark with shiny particulate matter through the oil and some tiny chunks of aluminum. Now, the ride involved riding from 40+ degrees to minus a few degrees and from -246 ft to over 12,000 ft and cruising at over 80 mph for 10 to 12 hour days. But, don't do what I did and take your oil change to the max, especially with hard riding. Oil is cheap an engine is not and nor is getting your bike towed to the nearest town. My AT has exhibited no bad after affects like burning oil or weird sounds. The Blackstone oil report on the oil I used to essentially flush the engine out over 500 miles only stated there was a higher than normal iron content but no other contamination were present. So I dodged a bullet, I really thought I had toasted the engine. Pavlin's point with the electrical system is very important. I installed the Eastern Beaver Power Center to isolate any secondary items i.e. driving lights, heated grips and anything else from the primary system - the motorbike's main electrical system.
Blackstone sent an oil report. From the metal results and report I didn't ruin the engine with riding around the continent through the harsh environments and pushing the oil to 8,000 miles. For 5,000 miles the oil had they stated 'Metals are low compared to universal averages and as you'll recall, those averages show typical wear after about 4,000 miles of oil use. This oil was in place a little longer and metals are in great shape, so we don't suspect any trouble.' But, I'm still irked I didn't do a simple oil change half way through the ride which would have protected the engine better and not caused such angst on my part. WHEW 😅 @@motorcycleadventures
Oil filter: I change it at every oil change, but with my Honda, and my Yamaha, according to the factory regulations, it only needs to be done every second time. I'm sure there's nothing wrong with that under normal circumstances. But as I wrote, I'll change it too :) I really like your way of thinking.
Real Lie Ability . You will find that almost anywhere money is involved . That's why we need to that which has Ability to weed through the Lie and be Real . Man that was tough on my brain and that's no lie , lol . Always appreciate your insight because you walk the walk and the talk . Hope you have an amazing adventure filled year and a healthy happy family , God bless .
It is possible to upgrade some bearings in headsets to higher quality parts as well as buying best quality replacment parts as there are some crap cheap parts out there. Agree with not adding unreliable parts like electrical additions and mufflers etc
I like how the market values more a bike that's 5 years+ and has under 10.000 kms or even less than one that has been ridden and maintained normally. Or people who get temporary registrations and don't ride the bike for 3-4 months per year to ...save money :)
One great video on oil, "The truth about oil change intervals", at time 25:20 the builder of motors asks the king of oil development about the manufacturers of vehicles about there oil change intervals. the answer is very surprising.. I have heard you say this answer too, Pavlov.
The most important thing to extend the life of your motorcycle is to ensure it is Japanese 😁 I used to ride a little Honda CBR250R with the odometer reading beyond 250k kms. Considering the high cost of import and customs in India- it was my all to do motorcycle. City commutes, long distance touring, off-roading- it would do everything. My trust in the motorcycle kinda made me ignore regular maintenance but it just went on and on.
I was surprised when my brother said he had to change the main bearings in his Caterpillar motor at 250k miles. It is a maintenance service item. The engine is considered quite reliable and will probably do 1M miles or more before a rebuild. In Canada, you have to prove all the manufacturer service bulletins have been done before you can import it.
If you change your oil at half the distance recommended, then you don't need to change your oil filter at the same time. The proof of the pudding is when you cut your oil filter apart afterwards (!) and check how 'clogged' it actually was (or wasn't). (BTW, that is the way to tell when your motorcycle is run in...when there is no more tiny metal shavings lodged in your oil filter...after having cut it apart) .
generally I change the oil every 3,000 km or once a year since I got three bikes and I'm not riding too much. I also change the filter and clean the air filter or change it for a new one. lately I bought a brush for cleaning the chain and oil spray to clean it and oil spray to lubricated. I only do maintenance on one bike because I don't understand nothing of mechanics, the other two bikes I take them to the shop. I got three bikes but they are from 2001, 2002 and 2006 I am not rich at all. all of them were bought used. * I know that you made it a review about The African twin 1100 but in my country there are many customers complaining about the consuming of oil in every thousand kilometers, the critics seem to me to be true unfortunately, since is one of the best bikes on its class for me because it's fast enough is well balanced, the position of riding is very good, it has some weight but all of these bikes have some weight. ***** I would REALLY like to see a new review of the Husqvarna 701 Enduro or the KTM 690 Enduro because they have changed on mechanical levels and I would like to see if they are more reliable. And there is nothin japanese on that level, weight/ power and suspentions. * one thing that I would like to see also, that was never been done on this channel is a review of an MX bike 450, one of the Japanese bikes brand because some people would like to see if it is possible to maintain and deal with the bike for having some fun on the dirt. Good video Pavlin, with smart opinions made by experience.
Thanks for taking the time! I will do the reviews when I have the chance. I do have a review of Husqvarna 350 dirt bike: th-cam.com/video/rwJyBLkxoKQ/w-d-xo.html
Very good advice mate I pretty much follow what you said and have a DR650 with over 100000 on it and it works just fine the new bike a Honda 300 already has 30000 on it and it looks like it will last for a long time also.
Nice video Pavlin, pure true and objective.. proper maintenance and style of riding (driving) makes trouble free life of your motorcycle (car) - it´s rule #1
Hey. Great channel 👏. Do you grip wire your heated grips ?????? Yes i know about the heating elements inside the heated grips. Just looked like in a video of yours that you'd grip wired them. Id like too .
Common sense tips. Some people care more about the appearance of the outside than the condition of the inside. If mine is left under cover for more than a week it gets a full covering of corrosion protection (or GT85 as minimum). As you say though - using it more helps.
"..and you convert your dashboard into a Christmas tree"- that cracked my ribs. I agree, the more and more gadgets you add to your bike is a LOAD to the electrical system and soon you will cook your stator from power Loads. That was very true. Am only planning to get a used trail tech VOYAGER for my serow in Kenya. Kindly help me get one from a trusted friend. Most sold online are a gambling.
Great points Pavlin! From your extensive experience in life with motorcycles, what would be your number one bike for all purposes to have in your garage?
Clean oil is everything ………….and not abusing your machine , that is to say no overloading , no excessive RPM’S , no excessive acceleration (hole shots / big strain on everything) and keeping everything lubed properly and at the proper operation temp. . Oil coolers are a “must” when touring two-up in the summer especially when traversing mountains (Alps) . It’s all about good quality oil at the right temp ……..period . I know , I’ve done the US / Canada (F’en boring) European theater and Africa a couple of times without any issues ……. except a few unscheduled speeding tickets (can you say “F’en Ouch !) If your engine is runnig correctly , and riding responsibly (no stupid shit) you should be fine for any journey life will throw at ya . Keep it at the “sweet spot ?” (3300 + Rpm’s ?) and you’ll be fine , you’ll enjoy that brew 🍺even more ……at the END of the day . After thousands of miles riding my advice ; stay alert , KEEP YOUR DISTANCE , and RPM’s at the proper level and you’ll be riding another day . No animals were hurt during this composition………yet ! As for rode kill , never done that before , thank god . Oh , anudder ting ; don’t “F” around with your wires , a cigarette liter / with fuse is the only accessory you’ll need (GPS) .
Ok here is a point of concern. By profession I am a long haul truck driver and I work 2-3 months at a time and then I get about 8-10 days at home where the riding season is from March/April to September/October. On my home time I could put 3-400 miles in those 8-10 days unlike my job where I drive 3,500 every 6 days😂. So obviously I cannot ride a bike as much as I drive an 18wheeler. So, how do I help my bike to last longer with those intervals? Disconnect battery, fill the fuel tank before going back to work with gas and fuel stabilizer, anything else? I cannot ride it to work as the commute is over 700 miles one way and i cannot move items from truck to home like my pickup truck. So the bike would only be ridden when on home time. So how do I protect the bike best before going to work so it will be ready in 2-3 months to ride when I get back home? The bike I am looking to get would be an Africa Twin, NX 750 or BMWs 1250 GS adventure.
So any advice on engine protection during that down time? Only thing I can think of is to trickle charge the battery when I get home on first day/night then when starting it, idle it for a few minutes to get the clutch covered in oil before riding?
Riding regularly is the best idea. Rust never sleeps ;-) It is for riding why we initially bought a bike. Cheers, Günter/Nürnberg PS: Hope the Russian buyer of your single has a lot of fun with the bike
I think that when it comes to aftermarket it also depends what you buy. Do you aim for higher quality? Do you mind the quality, or just the price? Were the original compontents top notch, or simply chosen to keep the initial price low? As for the sockets: yep, unless you ride a Christmas tree a single or at most double socket is enough. You can always buy a Y cable anyway.
Good information, thanks! Could you give any advice what to do during the winter? For me it is not possible to ride MC because of the snow. I just remove the battery and leave the MC for winter time in the garage (5-6 months). In spring I change oil, filters and start it again. Any advice? Thanks.
Better is to keep the battery on a trickle charger. Add stabilizer to the petrol. Change the oil before you put it in the garage, but don't start after that, maybe only for a few seconds. Put a rubber cap in the exhaust and don't start it until you decide to ride it.
@@motorcycleadventures Perfect, thank you :) One more question. My garage has no heating... As I understand, if I keep battery on a trickle charger in cold garage, it will survive the winter? Also, removing the battery for long period of time is not good for MC?
1. Let the engine warm up completely (80°C) before revving it up higher then necessary
2. Stay in Mid Range Revs always
3. Always use clutch when changing gears
4. Regular oil and filter changes (every 5000km)
5. Don't ride short distances, all the time
6. Maintain bike suggested as per manual
7. Keep the bike clean (not necessary to use pressure washer, just a hose with clean water, motorcycle cleaner, sponge and elbow grease. Moisture can stay inside the dirt that covers your bike and make it rusty over time
8. When in storage, use silicon spray to preserve metal finishes, keep the plastics elastic and prevent rusting
9. Keep it out of the sun when possible. Sun rays make rubber and plastic brittle
10. Riding the bike regularly is better than not riding it at all for a longer period of time
All these points are important if you plan to keep your bike for more than just a few years and trying to keep its value up.
Agree!
Oil charge every 5k or once a year
Warm up yes but not needed to fully warm as the faster it warms the better
So yea run it then helmet, goves ect
2 mins .. n go
I do at least 10 min
Very easy not just for engine, tyers brakes and me !
All but .2, engines rev for a reason.
@danstevens2204 all piston engines have s sweet spot
Is called volumetric balance, or efficency m8
And it can be different for 2 same engines any air filter or exhaust differences affect it
So exactly the rpm its perfect change
Its generally the flat spot between peak tourqe and power on the dyno
You feel it as you drive or ride ...its where the engine seems to float on the throttle
Its the rpm you want to ride at for long haul as best power least fuel
As for the other 2 or realy few more engines types ....go on what are they in your opinion
Been a mechanic for 42 years now and though I do not claim to know everything I do agree with your thoughts 100%
Thanks, man!
25 years ago, oil change intervals used to be every 5000km. It was pretty much universal. Nowadays many new bikes come with really long oil + filter change intervals, sometimes up to 16000km. While that's all fine and good by the manufacturer, I simply do not trust the 3.2 litres of synthetic engine oil circulating in my 900cc Triumph to even last that long before succumbing to evaporative losses due to the hot tropical climate I live in. So I still stick to a 5000km interval, which works out to about every 6-7 months.
One key thing most people often neglect is the coolant change, especially once out of warranty. Further complicating the matter are the bewildering types and colours of coolant that are now commercially available, from IAT to OAT and HOAT chemistries and from green to purple and every damn colour in between. These coolant chemistries are different and should not be mixed (some will negatively react with each other to produce deposits or sludge).
Thanks for sharing!
Most people who put loads of electric accessories on their bikes have no idea what their Stator output is and how much the standard bike needs. Extra accessories put more load on the Stator, Reg/Rec and Battery and usually shortens the life of those units.
That is true!
Fail to prepare! Prepare to fail!!!
Is that why my moped needs new battery ever year??!! Gosh!! I never thought about the charging output... Learn something everyday 👁️👄👁️ 🥰
Great tips. Common sense to me. I used to change my oil n filter every 4000 miles on my last FJR 1300. Rear diff oil at same time too. I covered 98,000 miles when I sold it and it was still like a new bike and good for another 100,000 miles.
Thanks for sharing!
All except the 1 minute warm up I do everything you said. My warm up routine is to keep the load low on the engine when cold. If the weather is very cold, below 10 deg then I do warm it up before moving, but that is to thaw out the windows or give the motorcycle engine chance to pull. I have never lost an engine in 2,000,000 km over 55 years, on 50+ cars and bikes. I have also never had a vehicle break down, no just once, on a Toyota I had just bought. That said I have nursed a few home.
I use all my senses when driving/riding and investigate any unusual smells, noises, vibrations, we are given these senses for a reason. Like you I prepare before a trip "pppppp" = Perfect preparation prevents piss poor performance.
I like videos like this because being reminded of something you know is still good, especially at my again and it is good to know I am doing what the experts do. I keep a check list with me in my little pink book which has everything in it.
Passport, money, cards and pink book....you can buy anything else you forget.
Thanks for sharing!
Simple, common sense advice that is 100% accurate! Keep up the great work! No nonsense, no BS. I’ve been riding over 50 years and the only problem motorcycles I had were the ones that I abused😢. Take care of the machinery and it will take care of you 😊
Thanks for taking the time!
l used to owen my truck , had it from new , done 800,000 km in 3 years , changed all filters & oil every 6 weeks , toke care of it in the same way you explained for your bike , never had any problems with it at all. i treat all my bikes cars and vans the same way still today , great advice dear friend .
Thanks for sharing!
Scania ?
iveco @@rensgreuter8152
totally agree buddy,
i am heading the 1 million KM on Motor-Bikes next Year. Most of my Bikes I bought used and cheap with higher milage . After a proper Inspektion i rode them most of the time in mid RPM. Regular Oil AND Filter change and a bit of loving care. Non of those Bikes ever let me stranded on the road.
keep the rubberside down
Thanks for sharing!
spot on on every point. I used to have 2-3 bikes at a time, and i didnt have the time to give them equal love. i ended up ignoring/neglecting many of them this way. I am now monogamous, only one bike at a time, ride in any weather, follow appropriate maintenance and certainly dont wash it as much as i used to. As a matter of fact, the only thing i hate more than cyclists, are motorbikes that dont get used.
Thanks for sharing!
A lot of pro riders are cyclists
I just Don't want to Ride in winter
Too much Salt on the Road that will Destroy a Motorcycle unless you Are
a Fanatical Cleaner. My Bike is off the
Road 3 Months of the Year
Is that Harmful to my Engine?
Always nice to listen to your thoughts. Living up here in the north (Sweden), one advice is hard to follow - to ride continously. At the moment I have about 40cm of snow outside the garage.. ;-)
It is what it is!
Snow tires! You only need two!!
Thank you Palvin even at 63 still learning something new.
Great to hear!
Another great one! I don’t understand why someone wouldn’t spend the extra little money and change the filter at the same time.
Well...
I have been riding and touring on & off road all around the world for 40 years and this man talks sense!! Keep the bike simple, learn about and look after the basic bike elements and go out and enjoy the bike within the limits it was designed for. 👍 Currently own a yamaha T700 and ktm 890 Adventure R. Keep up the posts thank you.
Thanks for taking the time!
Sadly, many people/riders don't even open the manual. That is # 1 in my book. Thanks for this video. In 35 years of riding, I never had a bike at any shop for internal issues.
Good! Thanks for sharing!
A good idea is to add a magnet in the oil system - drain plug or external on a spin-on oil filter. The tiny porous metal shavings work harden as they circulate so taking them out ASAP is a good idea. Usually these small metal fragments are too small to damage the engine as anything of damaging size is taken out by the filter, but it's a handy safeguard.
Agree!
Still have my 1985 Honda interceptor due to Canada winters. But proper maintenance and good riding it just keeps going.
Right on!
Here in Michigan USA most cars rust out before they wear out because they put salt and chloride on the roads in the Witner and the humidity is very high .
The same in many European cities.
I have three bikes, and each one has its own purpose. My 2003 KLR650 that I’ve had since new, is for day trips, and has done a few vacation adventures. In 20 years of ownership, the only major thing I’ve done to it was a carburetor rebuild at 46,000 miles. My 1972 Honda CT90 is for running errands and camping exploration. It’s on original engine, 30,000 miles. Just bought a new XR150L as a light trail machine and back roads cruiser. It’ll get the same care that my other bikes have gotten, and have a long service life. I agree with all of your methods, and might add that proper winter storage is crucial to longevity. Before storage, install fresh oil and filter, fresh non ethanol fuel, add fuel stabilizer, keep on a float charger, clean and lube the chain, wax chrome and painted surfaces, and store indoors, if possible. Good video!
Thanks for sharing!
I do all you already recommend. It blows my mind seeing people abuse and neglect their hard earned toys. I mean yeah have fun and use them for what they’re made for but going forever between fluid changes, never hardly checking it over before a trip, and rev bombing or riding gears near redline all the time wow. I work hard for my money I want my stuff to last!
I understand you, but...
Great advice, thank You. That is the reason why I do ride even in winter, when not too cold and salty.
Thanks for sharing!
I agree with every single thing you said . Ive never blown an engine either . Even racing .
Good!
I own an 11 y.o. Honda BeAT Scooter (1 Gen, Carb Type) mainly for city driving with minor 2 hour province trip, yet still it revs and rides like brand new. My simple secret? I keep it all stock, changing parts before reaching it's life span / not reaching breaking point (original honda parts), and change oil every 2,500 km (instead of 4000 km in manual) because oil is cheap. This video is really SPOT ON SIR! THANKS!
Thanks for sharing!
I completely agree with the electrical system point of view. With the exception of some very much touring oriented bikes, with large engines, the alternators are not meant for having much additional devices plugged in. I'd say refrigerator and espresso machine must be left at home.
Thanks for taking the time!
Great advice. You cannot change the oil and filter enough. It’s the lifeblood of the engine.
True!
The voice of logic on the internet . Good job once again
Thanks!
Good advice. I used to have extra lights and even had a setup for charging my mobile. The lights had loose contacts. For the mobile charger, the wire was visible outside. I removed both of them, but I still miss the charger but hey it's time for a new motorcycle and those 12v sockets are neatly integrated these days
Thanks for sharing!
Or mount a small solar panel instead.
Common sense from the master of common sense!
Thanks again Pavlin
Any time!
Always solid and real life advice. Never internet theory advice. Thank you sir!
My pleasure!
Thank you Pavlin, As always for good sound tried and tested common sense advice which works. 👍
Any time!
Great advice, as a mechanic I have always preached regular oil service, 50% max rpm for long periods, never cut into a factory wire harness, and yes a used engine versus a seldom used engine is likely in better order.
Thanks for sharing!
"Grab your favorite drink and stay with me" is a cool invitation to sit with you, in your shop. Exactly how I felt.
English is not an issue for you, as, it is neither my language and I easily grasped each and every word and thoughts you conveyed.
Your narrative is concise, to the point, with sense and very educational. Humble on its core.
Keep the good work and thank you.
Thanks, man! I appreciate it!
Yeah, I wish I spoke a second language at all, let alone as well as you do.
' Preservation ', is the watchword.
I try to incorporate this thought into everything I do in respect of myself and the bike.
It's worked so far...
Ride safe and happy travels 👍
Thanks for sharing!
Always a pleasure to hear you, Pavlin! Hugs from Portugal!
Thanks for listening!
All good advice. Especially about regularly use the bike. I own 2 bikes and a classic car (‘66 Mustang convertible) and have done all of your 5 things for many years. I recently bought a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200 back from a friend who had stopped using it for about 3 years. It took a lot of work to get it running and riding right even though it had been stored indoors. The carbs were seriously gummed up. We also own a 2016 Audi Q5 as our “sensible” car. Funny, the most reliable vehicle of them all - that ‘66 Mustang!
Thanks for sharing!
Good advice as always, Pavel 👍
Highly appreciated, indeed 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
@@motorcycleadventures Keep up God's good, brother 💪
If you are serious about making your engine last, you need an oil temperature gauge...for knowing when your engine is ready 'for serious action ' and when it needs a break (whether air, water or/and oil cooled).
I deal with engines from many years and don't need it.
l live in Spain, own a 2014 Street Triple 675. l always let the engine run at tick over until two bars on the temperature gauge show, then ride at moderate speed and revs until the working temperature is reached. l change the oil and filter long before the recommended intervals, Plus perform inspections/maintenance... Sympathy for the engines mechanics pays dividends long term....
Good! Thanks for sharing!
Hello Pavlin! I agree with most of your tips, also from experience, over a milion quilometeres in various veicles and no damaged engines
Just let me add one important thing: the breaking in of the engine is also very important in the long term relyabiliti and oil consumption of an engine, the engine needs load in order to set the rings properly, so wen getting a new bike please change the oil after the first 3 to 5 hours (yes this is enhough especialy in todays bikes) and please dont run the engine in low rpms... no red line of course but give it at least 75% , you will be glad you did it in the future!
nice video my friend! keep up the good work!
Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you Pavlin. I am also prof driver and the rules ar similar for the any vehicle.
Thanks for sharing!
Definitely change your oil when it’s hot
Will definitely get all any metal shaving out and definitely put another filter on
I change mine every 4000 miles
And yes, riding every day best idea
Nice video, keep the good work
Up
Thanks for taking the time!
@@motorcycleadventures more than welcome
I agree with you.
I have Tracer 7 2021 with 104 000 km and never had a problem. Stil original wheel bearing and forks seals. Engine runs like it did on the first day. 👍
Thanks for sharing!
As always, very informative… Thank you for sharing. Regards, Bob.
Glad it was helpful!
I agree with everything you said … when you made your comment about cleaning your bike, I was like , your supposed wash it? 😂😂
Good vid !! 🙏🏻
Thanks for taking the time!
Have not jetwashed any of my bikes. Brush the grit from rear shock area, rad and wheels then quick rub with baby-soft wet wipes all over which are excellent for removing grime. Different if off-roading though.
I agree with the tips 👍
when I put gasoline in my GSA (30 liters) I add +- 100 ml 2-stroke oil, keeps the engine healthy.👌
Might help! Thanks for sharing!
I couldn’t agree with you more on every single thing that you said.
With oil, I always try to change it between 4000 and 5000 km. Yes, I’ll be honest I have been on trips before where I passed 5000 km even in one case I went to 8000 km but once in a while and also not being in a place where I can just change it. I did it as soon as I got to a place that I could change it.
You’re so right about the accessories thing . This past weekend I saw something that just made me laugh. as I pulled over to have a coffee. there were a few bikes that were there. and one of the bikes in all honesty was not a bike. It was accessories with two wheels. Accessories that I bring if I’m doing a long trip or two bags that hook the back of the bike and also a tank bag and that’s it. The accessories on this one. Oh my word it was like I said accessories with two wheels or a shop that was on two wheels.
When it comes to something like cleaning the chain, I try to do it on a regular basis .
But if I’m ever in a situation where I have been writing and it has been raining a lot and there’s mud on the ground, I will try and usually do clean the chain right after .
But the one thing that I don’t do very often is detailing and cleaning the whole bike itself . I know there are some people that are very anal about that and try to keep the bike clean like it was the day they picked it up. And yes, I will wash the bike twice a year maybe three times depending on how dirty it is if there’s a lot of money on the ground if it’s been raining a lot. But otherwise I just ride it. But also when I do wash it, I try not to use a high pressure water spray. If a high-pressure water spray is available I try to keep a distance of at least a meter and a half so nothing is spraying directly and too hard on all the electrics.
Thanks for sharing!
I'd also say that if you buy new, change the oil and filter at 100 km and 500 km as well as the usual 1000 km change.
1000km is more than enough!
Great video. Good things to consider. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Running an over square engine, where the bore dimension is greater than the stroke by a significant amount, at lower engine speeds, actually causes more wear on the thrust side of the piston, particularly in the higher gears that are over driven, lower than 1:1.
Knowing the power and torque curves of your particular engine is important in understanding where the optimum engine revolutions for power delivery. For example if the intercession of peak power and torque is at 6500 rpm, and you’re in sixth gear at 5000 rpm and need to accelerate, it's better to shift to fifth, to optimise the power delivery.
This value varies with every engine, but essentially it's best to not to lug any engine. Know the performance curves and operate within them, not above or below will reduce wear.
Agree!
Tank you for your wisdom👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Any time!
I recently bought a xt660z 2009 model with 1 owner from new, 4 service stamps ,and only 3400 miles on the clock ,I hope to have many happy years out of this bike and it happened to be black ,just like your old one ,keep the excellent videos coming many thanks 💪🏴👍🍻
Enjoy it!
Great video and agree with all your advice.
Glad it was helpful!
@@motorcycleadventures It was useful and your remarks about owning more than one motorcycle is spot on. My GS get used all the time, my Triumph Speed Triple, 1,000 miles per year and my Yamaha XSR900 only covered 300 miles during the last 12 months 🙂
Thanks for sharing!
Very nice explanation about motorcycle. This advice is very significant. And i will try to my motorcycle for a good maintenance. Thanks a lot sir 😊
Glad it was helpful!
again with good advice. with your videos, I already feel more confident😀✌️
Glad to help!
Good sensible advice which makes complete sense with your usual added sense of humour! Thanks Guy
My pleasure!
Exactly the same Pavlin !❤ I do this with my engines ,if you wake up in the morning it’s also not possible to run sprint from the bed and if you run sprint you also not go in the one Second sleeping and and ,engine parts im change before it’s broken because the are old or because of the many miles
Exactly!!
Thanks for the advice
Any time!
Очень разумно. Спасибо, Удачи!
Спасибо!
thank you. ı have a xt 660za 2015 model. she has 46000k kilometer. i'll use like you. Thanks to your videos, I realized that the rodage has just finished 😀
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent, valuable and to the point rules. I have an Africa Twin CRF 1000DCT; Honda says to change the oil every 8,000 miles (approx. 13,000 kms). Since I had the bike I decided to change the oil and both filters and o-ring (DCT model) every 4 to 5,000 miles. Learn from my mistake; I'm still kicking myself over riding the bike across USA continent (total of 6,500 miles) with right on 8,000 miles on the oil when I got back. I thought I could have changed the oil before I left but it only had not even 2,000 miles. I SHOULD have changed it at a friends place in SoCal, pretty much half way through the trip, when the oil had just over 5,000 miles. Why? When I got back home and changed the oil it was very dark with shiny particulate matter through the oil and some tiny chunks of aluminum. Now, the ride involved riding from 40+ degrees to minus a few degrees and from -246 ft to over 12,000 ft and cruising at over 80 mph for 10 to 12 hour days. But, don't do what I did and take your oil change to the max, especially with hard riding. Oil is cheap an engine is not and nor is getting your bike towed to the nearest town. My AT has exhibited no bad after affects like burning oil or weird sounds. The Blackstone oil report on the oil I used to essentially flush the engine out over 500 miles only stated there was a higher than normal iron content but no other contamination were present. So I dodged a bullet, I really thought I had toasted the engine. Pavlin's point with the electrical system is very important. I installed the Eastern Beaver Power Center to isolate any secondary items i.e. driving lights, heated grips and anything else from the primary system - the motorbike's main electrical system.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Blackstone sent an oil report. From the metal results and report I didn't ruin the engine with riding around the continent through the harsh environments and pushing the oil to 8,000 miles. For 5,000 miles the oil had they stated 'Metals are low compared to universal
averages and as you'll recall, those averages show typical wear after about 4,000 miles of oil use. This oil
was in place a little longer and metals are in great shape, so we don't suspect any trouble.' But, I'm still irked I didn't do a simple oil change half way through the ride which would have protected the engine better and not caused such angst on my part. WHEW 😅 @@motorcycleadventures
Oil filter: I change it at every oil change, but with my Honda, and my Yamaha, according to the factory regulations, it only needs to be done every second time. I'm sure there's nothing wrong with that under normal circumstances. But as I wrote, I'll change it too :)
I really like your way of thinking.
Thanks for taking the time!
Real Lie Ability . You will find that almost anywhere money is involved . That's why we need to that which has Ability to weed through the Lie and be Real .
Man that was tough on my brain and that's no lie , lol . Always appreciate your insight because you walk the walk and the talk . Hope you have an amazing adventure filled year and a healthy happy family , God bless .
Thanks, man!
Agree 100%.Thks.
Any time!
It is possible to upgrade some bearings in headsets to higher quality parts as well as buying best quality replacment parts as there are some crap cheap parts out there. Agree with not adding unreliable parts like electrical additions and mufflers etc
Might help in some specific situations.
I like how the market values more a bike that's 5 years+ and has under 10.000 kms or even less than one that has been ridden and maintained normally. Or people who get temporary registrations and don't ride the bike for 3-4 months per year to ...save money :)
This is the reality!
Thank you Pavlin! Most excellent advice!
Any time!
Simple words... ❤❤❤❤
Always!
One great video on oil, "The truth about oil change intervals", at time 25:20 the builder of motors asks the king of oil development about the manufacturers of vehicles about there oil change intervals. the answer is very surprising.. I have heard you say this answer too, Pavlov.
Thanks for the info!
..true,Pav..yes the 5 commands..
Wise advises,much thank..rational..
Thanks, man!
Inspired me thank you
Any time!
The most important thing to extend the life of your motorcycle is to ensure it is Japanese 😁 I used to ride a little Honda CBR250R with the odometer reading beyond 250k kms. Considering the high cost of import and customs in India- it was my all to do motorcycle. City commutes, long distance touring, off-roading- it would do everything. My trust in the motorcycle kinda made me ignore regular maintenance but it just went on and on.
Thanks for sharing!
As always Pavlin ... Sound advice.
As always, thanks for taking the time!
Thanks for sharing ! Great informative video as always
My pleasure!
I was surprised when my brother said he had to change the main bearings in his Caterpillar motor at 250k miles. It is a maintenance service item. The engine is considered quite reliable and will probably do 1M miles or more before a rebuild.
In Canada, you have to prove all the manufacturer service bulletins have been done before you can import it.
Thanks for sharing!
I learned a lot, thank you.
Glad to hear it!
If you change your oil at half the distance recommended, then you don't need to change your oil filter at the same time.
The proof of the pudding is when you cut your oil filter apart afterwards (!) and check how 'clogged' it actually was (or wasn't).
(BTW, that is the way to tell when your motorcycle is run in...when there is no more tiny metal shavings lodged in your oil filter...after having cut it apart)
.
It cost nothing compare to oil and it will be always better.
Great tips !
Glad it was helpful!
generally I change the oil every 3,000 km or once a year since I got three bikes and I'm not riding too much.
I also change the filter and clean the air filter or change it for a new one.
lately I bought a brush for cleaning the chain and oil spray to clean it and oil spray to lubricated.
I only do maintenance on one bike because I don't understand nothing of mechanics, the other two bikes I take them to the shop. I got three bikes but they are from 2001, 2002 and 2006 I am not rich at all. all of them were bought used.
* I know that you made it a review about The African twin 1100 but in my country there are many customers complaining about the consuming of oil in every thousand kilometers, the critics seem to me to be true unfortunately, since is one of the best bikes on its class for me because it's fast enough is well balanced, the position of riding is very good, it has some weight but all of these bikes have some weight.
***** I would REALLY like to see a new review of the Husqvarna 701 Enduro or the KTM 690 Enduro because they have changed on mechanical levels and I would like to see if they are more reliable.
And there is nothin japanese on that level, weight/ power and suspentions.
* one thing that I would like to see also, that was never been done on this channel is a review of an MX bike 450, one of the Japanese bikes brand because some people would like to see if it is possible to maintain and deal with the bike for having some fun on the dirt.
Good video Pavlin, with smart opinions made by experience.
Thanks for taking the time! I will do the reviews when I have the chance. I do have a review of Husqvarna 350 dirt bike: th-cam.com/video/rwJyBLkxoKQ/w-d-xo.html
@@motorcycleadventures Thank you
Ahahah I loved the mission impossible music ahahah
Continue with the great job in the channel
Will do, thanks!
Very good advice mate I pretty much follow what you said and have a DR650 with over 100000 on it and it works just fine the new bike a Honda 300 already has 30000 on it and it looks like it will last for a long time also.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks a lot
Happy to help!
Nice video Pavlin, pure true and objective..
proper maintenance and style of riding (driving) makes trouble free life of your motorcycle (car) - it´s rule #1
Absolutely!
Excellent info thank you very much!🆒😎👌!
Any time!
Hey. Great channel 👏. Do you grip wire your heated grips ?????? Yes i know about the heating elements inside the heated grips. Just looked like in a video of yours that you'd grip wired them. Id like too .
I have these thin rubber layers on the top because the original grip was worn out.
Common sense tips. Some people care more about the appearance of the outside than the condition of the inside. If mine is left under cover for more than a week it gets a full covering of corrosion protection (or GT85 as minimum). As you say though - using it more helps.
Thanks for sharing!
"..and you convert your dashboard into a Christmas tree"- that cracked my ribs. I agree, the more and more gadgets you add to your bike is a LOAD to the electrical system and soon you will cook your stator from power Loads. That was very true. Am only planning to get a used trail tech VOYAGER for my serow in Kenya. Kindly help me get one from a trusted friend. Most sold online are a gambling.
Exactly!
Very good advice ❤😊
Thank you!
275,000 miles on my taxi. Oil changes every 2000 miles
Thanks for sharing!
I like your accent and style. I subscribed.
Welcome aboard!
Great points Pavlin!
From your extensive experience in life with motorcycles, what would be your number one bike for all purposes to have in your garage?
The one that I have.
Clean oil is everything ………….and not abusing your machine , that is to say no overloading , no excessive RPM’S , no excessive acceleration (hole shots / big strain on everything) and keeping everything lubed properly and at the proper operation temp. . Oil coolers are a “must” when touring two-up in the summer especially when traversing mountains (Alps) . It’s all about good quality oil at the right temp ……..period . I know , I’ve done the US / Canada (F’en boring) European theater and Africa a couple of times without any issues ……. except a few unscheduled speeding tickets (can you say “F’en Ouch !)
If your engine is runnig correctly , and riding responsibly (no stupid shit) you should be fine for any journey life will throw at ya .
Keep it at the “sweet spot ?” (3300 + Rpm’s ?) and you’ll be fine , you’ll enjoy that brew 🍺even more ……at the END of the day .
After thousands of miles riding my advice ; stay alert , KEEP YOUR DISTANCE , and RPM’s at the proper level and you’ll be riding another day . No animals were hurt during this composition………yet ! As for rode kill , never done that before , thank god .
Oh , anudder ting ; don’t “F” around with your wires , a cigarette liter / with fuse is the only accessory you’ll need (GPS) .
Thanks for sharing!
An optimist is a pessimist without the facts. I get a lot of stick for saying this and get the glass half empty label. Thanks Pavlin.
Any time!
Ok here is a point of concern. By profession I am a long haul truck driver and I work 2-3 months at a time and then I get about 8-10 days at home where the riding season is from March/April to September/October.
On my home time I could put 3-400 miles in those 8-10 days unlike my job where I drive 3,500 every 6 days😂.
So obviously I cannot ride a bike as much as I drive an 18wheeler.
So, how do I help my bike to last longer with those intervals? Disconnect battery, fill the fuel tank before going back to work with gas and fuel stabilizer, anything else? I cannot ride it to work as the commute is over 700 miles one way and i cannot move items from truck to home like my pickup truck.
So the bike would only be ridden when on home time.
So how do I protect the bike best before going to work so it will be ready in 2-3 months to ride when I get back home?
The bike I am looking to get would be an Africa Twin, NX 750 or BMWs 1250 GS adventure.
There is no perfect world...
So any advice on engine protection during that down time? Only thing I can think of is to trickle charge the battery when I get home on first day/night then when starting it, idle it for a few minutes to get the clutch covered in oil before riding?
Excellent advice
Glad it was helpful!
How do you know if the bike is at optimal temperature if it doesn't have a temp sensor?
Give it 5-10 min on slow RPM on a hot days and a little bit longer in the cold.
Riding regularly is the best idea. Rust never sleeps ;-) It is for riding why we initially bought a bike. Cheers, Günter/Nürnberg PS: Hope the Russian buyer of your single has a lot of fun with the bike
Absolutely!
Nice. Vlog. Liked from Bharat.
Thanks, man!
I think that when it comes to aftermarket it also depends what you buy. Do you aim for higher quality? Do you mind the quality, or just the price? Were the original compontents top notch, or simply chosen to keep the initial price low?
As for the sockets: yep, unless you ride a Christmas tree a single or at most double socket is enough. You can always buy a Y cable anyway.
Agree!
Good information, thanks! Could you give any advice what to do during the winter? For me it is not possible to ride MC because of the snow. I just remove the battery and leave the MC for winter time in the garage (5-6 months). In spring I change oil, filters and start it again. Any advice? Thanks.
Better is to keep the battery on a trickle charger. Add stabilizer to the petrol. Change the oil before you put it in the garage, but don't start after that, maybe only for a few seconds. Put a rubber cap in the exhaust and don't start it until you decide to ride it.
@@motorcycleadventures Perfect, thank you :) One more question. My garage has no heating... As I understand, if I keep battery on a trickle charger in cold garage, it will survive the winter? Also, removing the battery for long period of time is not good for MC?
absolutley
Thanks for watching!