*100% best **Generater.Systems** I have used. A test for hurricane prep here in Louisiana: three AC units, 5000, 5000 & 8000, 3 fridges, 2 device power setups, 4 flat screens....AND I had 40% of the power meter to spare.*
Glad to see someone else using this transfer switch in this manner! Great looking system BTW 👍. I'm currently grid tied as well but using this with a Sol-ark "smart dump" feature. Primarily for EV charging and hot water storage loads. Also these transfer switches are easily rewired, including your 6/3 directly lugged to the bus bars. If you ever need an additional double pole, my electrician suggested upping wire size and heat rating 90c to 105c due to enclosure size. (This goes with saying check yourself and local guide lines; I'm not a professional). Keep up the great work!!!
Great job in showing how to hook this up. We have the 10 and 6 circuit transfer switch for our Predator 9000/7250 watts gasoline generator that I converted to tri-fuel. I use the 240/120 and 120 volts outlets to power our whole house. It works beautifully. Also, you don't have to turn off any of your breakers in the main control panel, when switching between Line and Gen mode.
I really like it. We haven't had to use it in a power outage situation yet. I've put over 78 hrs. of testing/exercising it over the last 14 months. We are ready for when the power goes out. We live in Chicago and don't lose power that often. But when it has gone out in the past, it was either really cold out or hot/humid. We where blessed in those situations, that the power wasn't off for more then 10 hrs. My advise for anyone wanting a portable generator: exercise it, maintain it and have extra oil, air filter, spark plugs and extra fuel on hand. Have it hook up to your house main control panel through a manual transfer switch or interlock switch. Purchase a Gentent to protect it from snow and rain. Set it up and run it off your circuits so you know what it can handle. Lastly, install a tri-fuel kit to run it off of gasoline, natural gas or propane. Have it hooked up to your homes fuel source. This way you won't have to refill it and it burns cleaner too.
Thank you so much! Just getting into electrical work, and was wondering how to hook up the generator for main power to an RV, but be able to tie in thirty amp and roof solar later for the same outlets. Got a glimpse. Have a great weekend 👍🏼
Echo, I have an RV and I do that with my current system. Did you happen to notice the other transfer switch to the right of the solar output panel at 7:50? That is how I bring in a generator OR the utility to my solar power system. From there any choice of solar, batteries, generator of even utility can flow out to all three of my individual switched transfer switches. I can run anything in my house, garage, shop or RV from any source. Total flexibility!
@@HomesteadEngineering I believe, sir, you have saved my bacon! This is so much more than I thought it would be, but I want to set it up right from the ground up. At least I haven't built the walls yet, so I will have to get electrical savvy quick, to set it up nice and safe! Thank you so much for your help, I am going back to watch again, this time with notes and a list of supplies in mind. Have a great weekend!
@@PeaceJourney... I should probably make a video on all the ways I use my system. I do have a few more videos that you may find helpful: th-cam.com/video/Ovrief1eIAI/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/_EyJJbmhHac/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/zb4oar9UHSY/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, thanks for the video. I dont have any electric utility, so looking at an option where I can have both a generator and/or solar. Would this work for that purpose?
I am not an Electrician so (disclaimer). I can see how this could work but probably not needed. Most solar setups would have the option for a generator connection directly to the solar setup. The solar setup would then manage the solar inputs and the generator inputs automatically. I would look at the EG4 series or something similar. Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=HomesteadEngineering
I am looking into using a Hybrid Inverter; which means the solar panels are one input, and my main panel is a second input (with an 80Amp breaker from main panel) into the inverter. I want the output of the inverter to go into this kind of transfer switch. Would this work? It would mean that for the switches in the 'Gen' position the load would be powered from both solar panels and the grid (from the 80AMP breaker) and for the switches in the 'Line' position those loads would be powered by the grid only through that load's existing breaker from the main panel. So in practice the transfer switch would be used as a switch between 'Grid only' and "Grid and Solar.' Does this make sense. I am thinking of this type of setup, because I want to use an undersized solar panel array that needs grid power (i.e. without battery investment) to handle most of my loads. And I want to ability to switch all loads back on the grid in the event my inverter fails or has to be replaced because I don't want to be without power. In this setup I may as well ask about what to do with ground and neutral in this setup because that stuff is confusing. In another video the guy 'passed' the ground and neutral separately to the main panel, which I assume is correct in my setup too. Thanks for the great video.
Great Video! At 3:07 you mention the limitation fo the box due to the sizing of the input wire. Is this something that is easily changed out to larger wire? Are there any other considerations besides the sizing of the wire that would limit this box to a certain Amperage? I can't seem to find any product like this larger than 50 Amps, which is just not enough amperage for the system I want to build. Is it as simple as just replacing those wires?
I would not modify the system with larger wire. The largest one I know of is 50 amps. I used two 50amp switches on my mains to meet my demands. th-cam.com/video/4HhfdzBunSc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yF-mra8jrYRXDTeH
I saw your setup in the thumbnail and I would like to do similar where the transfer switch box in in the wall since my electrical box is also in the wall. Unfortunately the video skipped the part how you fit it securely inside the opening other than one screw. Can you please share how you secure it in the wall? Thank you.
1. I cut the hole in the wall to match the shape and size of the TX switch 2. Be very careful cutting this hole as not to cut anything inside the wall (wires) 3. I cut the whole right next to a stud in the wall 4. I added some blocking on the right side to build out to form a right side mounting surface 5. A put the TX switch in and screwed it to the left side stud and the right side blocking with short deck screws 6. Then I just hooked it all up 7. Be sure to put all the wires from TX switch to panel in conduit Disclaimer Note: I am not an Electrician. I am only telling you what I did not how you should do it.
@@HomesteadEngineering Thank you very much. You made it clear to me. I was wondering about the left side of the TX switch. Thanks for making these great videos.
I ve been using the Reliance Pro Tran 2 transfer switch as the circuit breaker box for an off grid cabin. Just plug the Honda EU200i into the outside recepticle and viola! power through out. My question is how can I connect the Reliance Pro Tran 2 transfer to a solar panel system? So that I can alternate between genny and solar.
David, Many ways to do it. 1. You could have the same plug on the solar output and then just plug in the one you want. 2. You could run them both to a 2nd transfer switch and then use that to select 3. I run the generator into my solar power system and then run the solar to the transfer switch. I can run utility, solar, batteries or multiple generators. Total flexibility. th-cam.com/video/zb4oar9UHSY/w-d-xo.html
@@HomesteadEngineering The #1 option is ideal, but Im unclear how to accomplish it. Solar Panels to Charge Controller to Battery Bank to Power Cord plugged into Pro Tran 2 ?
@@davidmc2861 You could run one of the outputs of your solar to a plug identical to that found on your generator. That way you can use the same generator cord to plug in either you generator or your solar to your transfer switch.
We are doing the same setup you have here. Did you say you didn't connect the neutral from the inverter to the neutral on the transfer switch? How would this work without the neutrals connected?
Steve, Its been a while so I am not sure but I would guess that the neutral and grounds are already connected elsewhere in the system. I kind of remember ringing them out with continuity without them being connected. Note: I am not an Electrician and can't advise you... I am only showing folks what I did which may not be the best practice. Thanks!
Thank you for the video but I do need to ask do you need batteries for the solar to be able to use this? I have solar and can not use it when there power outages as we do not have batteries. It is only connected to the utility company.
Thank you for this video. I am doing the same setup. I do have one question. Are the inverter connected to grid for AC input?. At night when no solar and battery is low , does the Grid kick in to power the transfer switch ?
Hello Otis, I have the transfer switch connected to the grid and to my solar so I can switch any individual circuit as desired. So the answer to your question is YES. Note: I used to switch these back and forth every day but with the new EG4 battery bank I am able to run the entire house almost exclusively on the solar now. Thanks!
Steve O, I can only show you what I have done and can't advise you on electrical as I am not an Electrician. You should have a qualified Electrician have a look at it. That said, mine are the same and ground and neutral are only bonded at the main panel and nowhere else. Thanks!
Nice i look at those but im off grid i think I will wire my outback with the lock out switch for generator... These new batteries we haven't use the gen 🤘🤘🤘
Depends on a lot a factors but probably yes if the plug and wire are rated for the max current and the gas generator and EF are both 240 or both 120. Consult an electrician...
It does not. That would be better in a way as I waste energy once everything is topped off and I have no "dump load" uses. I chose to do it this way as I did not want to be subject to any potential problems with the utility down the road. They have NO say over my system. To them, I look the same as having a backup generator except in my case its running ALL the time. When I get my Tesla Cyber Truck, there will be no wasted power anymore. Thanks!
@Homestead Engineering . Nice content. I'm doing a set up similar to yours. I noticed that you connected the ground and neutral wires from the transfer switch to you sub panel but removed the neutral and ground from being connected to you inverter. Question. What are the wire and voltage outputs of your inverter from your battery bank solar setup which go to the transfer switch?
David, I did connect the ground and neutral from the transfer switch to the panel but did not connect them back to the solar system because they are already tied back to the main panel in a different path. i.e. there is continuity but only tied at one location. I used oversized 6/3 wire and the voltage is split phase 240. Thanks!
Thanks for replying. I subscribed! Follow up question. So in your previous solar/ transfer switch video, was the same principle applied in removing ground and neutral? Or was it there that neutral and ground were connected from inverter to transfer switch to panel and hence the reason you would now already have continuity.
@@david32151 They were not connected there either. Its been a while but I think they were only connected at the AC input to the solar power system. So basically: 1. I have two 150A main panels 2. One of those main panels feeds a 100A sub panel in my solar/prepper room 3. That sub panel can act as an input to my solar power system although I never use it that way. I would only use it if a storm was coming and I needed to top off my batteries with the utility before it goes out. I normally have that disconnected to avoid any noise input from the utility 4. That sub panel is where the common and ground are tied from the solar power back to the mains. 5. The common and ground are not tied anywhere else. Not any any of the three transfer panels. They all have continuity because they are already tied. Check this: th-cam.com/video/DvfReskBReQ/w-d-xo.html and this: th-cam.com/video/4HhfdzBunSc/w-d-xo.html Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering That's fantastic. Your videos are very helpful and incredibly informative. As an engineer, I like to hear the thinking process (the why) as well as the how, and you do that very well. Ok,, i have the exact same setup as you, but I have NO AC GRID TIE backup to my solar system - it is 100% standalone. I am also connecting it to my sub-panel with the ground and neutral NOT BONDED per code just like yours. The sub-panel is currently connected to the house main (which has neutral/ground bonded in that panel). The question, as there is NO path back from my solar system to the main's neutral/ground, would you join the transfer switch ground and neutral instead of what you did here - float them?
Thank you for this video :) :) I am doing the same thing but running my stuff off some large power stations and about 1700 watts of solar. Quick question....Which type of conduit did you use to go between boxes? The stuff that came with the transfer switch is NOT FLEXIBLE at all!
Jasonoid, I am not an Electrician so I can't advise anyone on what they should do. I also do not know what would meet your local codes. That said, I will simple state that I think this stuff is fairly flexible: www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Ultratite-Non-Metal-Liquid-tight-25-ft-Conduit-Common-1-2-in-Actual-0-5-in/1000239881 Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I'm in the process of hooking up that same transfer switch. Not hooking up the ground from you solar system so you don't get a ground loop makes sence, but I wasn't thinking about the common not getting hooked up between the solar system and the transfer switch. You may have saved me a lot of trouble there. So, is your solar system ground to the same ground as the main panel, or a separate one on its own ground rod(s)?
I find grounding to be a black art but basically I believe that your common and ground should only be bonded in one place and that one place is the main panel. That's how I built my system. Since the solar side (common and ground wires) already run back to the main and are bonded there, connecting them again in this sub panel would create a ground loop. One way to check, is to check for continuity before you make the connection. If it rings out, then its already connected somewhere else. That said, I am not an Electrician and you have to do your own research. Thanks!
Can you please help me understand this. In the video you say you left the ground and neutral floating in the transfer switch. Does this mean you didn't splice the two neutrals together or does it mean you didn't bond the neutral and ground together?
Hi Sir, thank you for your informative video. I did have one question. I do plan on wiring up the same exact transfer switch next to my sub panel, if I wanted some circuits from my main panel (right on other side of wall) to be wired to a transfer switch, would I need a separate generator and transfer switch or would I just wire up the circuits from the main panel the same way? Note: I do plan on hiring an electrician to do the final job, but just more curious if you can power circuits from main panel and sub panel from the same transfer switch panel so I don’t get overcharged or ripped off. Thanks for any input and I understand you can’t give official advice, :)
Hello Mike, Glad that you will be hiring a professional for this. I don't see why you can't wire your transfer panel as you have described in terms of functionality. I think it would work as long as you get the grounds and commons correct. That said, I can see why it may be a code violation due to the complexity. A new home owner may be injured as they may not understand that both panels could be "hot" even when both main breakers are off. i.e. its just a bit "non-standard". Hopefully your Electrician will know for sure if its doable. Thanks!
Man, this might be exactly what I’m looking for. Especially during outages when the sun is out, I can still take advantage of the solar power. Did you have to get approval from your utility company to install this?
That is correct and that is why I have a 30 Amp breaker on the input wires. Its a very good point to make and it would be very easy to exceed the 30 Amps if I did not take care in monitoring it. Note for EV charging: I do charge our EV from this panel and since that is 100% duty cycle I am careful to not exceed 18Amps when charging the car. Charging the car above say 25A would likely create a problem even with the 30Amp breaker. I am also careful to not run any other major appliance off this panel while charging the car. Thanks!
*100% best **Generater.Systems** I have used. A test for hurricane prep here in Louisiana: three AC units, 5000, 5000 & 8000, 3 fridges, 2 device power setups, 4 flat screens....AND I had 40% of the power meter to spare.*
Before you need it.
Thank you for the link and the Pumpkin cut technique
No problem 😊
Glad to see someone else using this transfer switch in this manner! Great looking system BTW 👍. I'm currently grid tied as well but using this with a Sol-ark "smart dump" feature. Primarily for EV charging and hot water storage loads. Also these transfer switches are easily rewired, including your 6/3 directly lugged to the bus bars. If you ever need an additional double pole, my electrician suggested upping wire size and heat rating 90c to 105c due to enclosure size. (This goes with saying check yourself and local guide lines; I'm not a professional). Keep up the great work!!!
Go Megan! You should post some videos of your setup. It sounds like your killing it!
@@HomesteadEngineering if only I wasn't so camera shy 😅. Thank you Sir and keep the great videos and innovations coming!!!
I curious what the source of the noise is at 4:22. Is that your inverter?
That is a window AC.
@@HomesteadEngineering Thanks. I'm searching for a quiet inverter/charger (i.e.
@@johnbrzezinski1446 About like a microwave oven at low power and noisyer than my window AC when the fans kick in. Too noisy for a room with a TV.
@@HomesteadEngineering Thank you!
Great job in showing how to hook this up. We have the 10 and 6 circuit transfer switch for our Predator 9000/7250 watts gasoline generator that I converted to tri-fuel. I use the 240/120 and 120 volts outlets to power our whole house. It works beautifully. Also, you don't have to turn off any of your breakers in the main control panel, when switching between Line and Gen mode.
Pk 3, Yes it is a great switch. How do you like that Predator?
I really like it. We haven't had to use it in a power outage situation yet. I've put over 78 hrs. of testing/exercising it over the last 14 months. We are ready for when the power goes out.
We live in Chicago and don't lose power that often. But when it has gone out in the past, it was either really cold out or hot/humid. We where blessed in those situations, that the power wasn't off for more then 10 hrs.
My advise for anyone wanting a portable generator: exercise it, maintain it and have extra oil, air filter, spark plugs and extra fuel on hand. Have it hook up to your house main control panel through a manual transfer switch or interlock switch. Purchase a Gentent to protect it from snow and rain. Set it up and run it off your circuits so you know what it can handle.
Lastly, install a tri-fuel kit to run it off of gasoline, natural gas or propane. Have it hooked up to your homes fuel source. This way you won't have to refill it and it burns cleaner too.
@@Pk3_Garage good advice!
Just bought one. great video same location as mine in my garage. Using an Echo Flow MAX
Thank you so much! Just getting into electrical work, and was wondering how to hook up the generator for main power to an RV, but be able to tie in thirty amp and roof solar later for the same outlets. Got a glimpse.
Have a great weekend 👍🏼
Echo, I have an RV and I do that with my current system. Did you happen to notice the other transfer switch to the right of the solar output panel at 7:50? That is how I bring in a generator OR the utility to my solar power system. From there any choice of solar, batteries, generator of even utility can flow out to all three of my individual switched transfer switches. I can run anything in my house, garage, shop or RV from any source. Total flexibility!
@@HomesteadEngineering I believe, sir, you have saved my bacon! This is so much more than I thought it would be, but I want to set it up right from the ground up. At least I haven't built the walls yet, so I will have to get electrical savvy quick, to set it up nice and safe! Thank you so much for your help, I am going back to watch again, this time with notes and a list of supplies in mind. Have a great weekend!
@@PeaceJourney... I should probably make a video on all the ways I use my system. I do have a few more videos that you may find helpful:
th-cam.com/video/Ovrief1eIAI/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/_EyJJbmhHac/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/zb4oar9UHSY/w-d-xo.html
@@HomesteadEngineering oh yeah! Thank you very much! I am binge watching them now!
Hi there, thanks for the video. I dont have any electric utility, so looking at an option where I can have both a generator and/or solar. Would this work for that purpose?
I am not an Electrician so (disclaimer). I can see how this could work but probably not needed. Most solar setups would have the option for a generator connection directly to the solar setup. The solar setup would then manage the solar inputs and the generator inputs automatically. I would look at the EG4 series or something similar.
Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=HomesteadEngineering
@@HomesteadEngineering sounds good. I will check my bluetti ac500max for this
Thanks for the video.
I am looking into using a Hybrid Inverter; which means the solar panels are one input, and my main panel is a second input (with an 80Amp breaker from main panel) into the inverter. I want the output of the inverter to go into this kind of transfer switch. Would this work? It would mean that for the switches in the 'Gen' position the load would be powered from both solar panels and the grid (from the 80AMP breaker) and for the switches in the 'Line' position those loads would be powered by the grid only through that load's existing breaker from the main panel. So in practice the transfer switch would be used as a switch between 'Grid only' and "Grid and Solar.' Does this make sense. I am thinking of this type of setup, because I want to use an undersized solar panel array that needs grid power (i.e. without battery investment) to handle most of my loads. And I want to ability to switch all loads back on the grid in the event my inverter fails or has to be replaced because I don't want to be without power. In this setup I may as well ask about what to do with ground and neutral in this setup because that stuff is confusing. In another video the guy 'passed' the ground and neutral separately to the main panel, which I assume is correct in my setup too. Thanks for the great video.
Great Video! At 3:07 you mention the limitation fo the box due to the sizing of the input wire. Is this something that is easily changed out to larger wire? Are there any other considerations besides the sizing of the wire that would limit this box to a certain Amperage? I can't seem to find any product like this larger than 50 Amps, which is just not enough amperage for the system I want to build. Is it as simple as just replacing those wires?
I would not modify the system with larger wire. The largest one I know of is 50 amps. I used two 50amp switches on my mains to meet my demands.
th-cam.com/video/4HhfdzBunSc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yF-mra8jrYRXDTeH
@@HomesteadEngineering Thanks for the reply!
I saw your setup in the thumbnail and I would like to do similar where the transfer switch box in in the wall since my electrical box is also in the wall. Unfortunately the video skipped the part how you fit it securely inside the opening other than one screw. Can you please share how you secure it in the wall? Thank you.
1. I cut the hole in the wall to match the shape and size of the TX switch
2. Be very careful cutting this hole as not to cut anything inside the wall (wires)
3. I cut the whole right next to a stud in the wall
4. I added some blocking on the right side to build out to form a right side mounting surface
5. A put the TX switch in and screwed it to the left side stud and the right side blocking with short deck screws
6. Then I just hooked it all up
7. Be sure to put all the wires from TX switch to panel in conduit
Disclaimer Note: I am not an Electrician. I am only telling you what I did not how you should do it.
@@HomesteadEngineering Thank you very much. You made it clear to me. I was wondering about the left side of the TX switch. Thanks for making these great videos.
I ve been using the Reliance Pro Tran 2 transfer switch as the circuit breaker box for an off grid cabin. Just plug the Honda EU200i into the outside recepticle and viola! power through out. My question is how can I connect the Reliance Pro Tran 2 transfer to a solar panel system? So that I can alternate between genny and solar.
David, Many ways to do it.
1. You could have the same plug on the solar output and then just plug in the one you want.
2. You could run them both to a 2nd transfer switch and then use that to select
3. I run the generator into my solar power system and then run the solar to the transfer switch. I can run utility, solar, batteries or multiple generators. Total flexibility.
th-cam.com/video/zb4oar9UHSY/w-d-xo.html
@@HomesteadEngineering The #1 option is ideal, but Im unclear how to accomplish it.
Solar Panels to Charge Controller to Battery Bank to Power Cord plugged into Pro Tran 2 ?
@@davidmc2861 You could run one of the outputs of your solar to a plug identical to that found on your generator. That way you can use the same generator cord to plug in either you generator or your solar to your transfer switch.
@@HomesteadEngineering Awesome, I'll be researching exactly that, Thanks
We are doing the same setup you have here. Did you say you didn't connect the neutral from the inverter to the neutral on the transfer switch? How would this work without the neutrals connected?
Steve, Its been a while so I am not sure but I would guess that the neutral and grounds are already connected elsewhere in the system. I kind of remember ringing them out with continuity without them being connected. Note: I am not an Electrician and can't advise you... I am only showing folks what I did which may not be the best practice. Thanks!
Thanks for your video I follow your instructions and it works out perfect.
Glad its working for you!
Thank you for the video but I do need to ask do you need batteries for the solar to be able to use this? I have solar and can not use it when there power outages as we do not have batteries. It is only connected to the utility company.
Ivette, You don't need this transfer switch because your house is always on solar/utility.
Thank you for this video. I am doing the same setup. I do have one question. Are the inverter connected to grid for AC input?. At night when no solar and battery is low , does the Grid kick in to power the transfer switch ?
Hello Otis, I have the transfer switch connected to the grid and to my solar so I can switch any individual circuit as desired. So the answer to your question is YES. Note: I used to switch these back and forth every day but with the new EG4 battery bank I am able to run the entire house almost exclusively on the solar now. Thanks!
Do you wire the receptical the same for both solar and generator?
What about ground and neutral?
Thanks
Steve O, I can only show you what I have done and can't advise you on electrical as I am not an Electrician. You should have a qualified Electrician have a look at it. That said, mine are the same and ground and neutral are only bonded at the main panel and nowhere else. Thanks!
Nice i look at those but im off grid i think I will wire my outback with the lock out switch for generator... These new batteries we haven't use the gen 🤘🤘🤘
Dan, If your totally off-grid with NO utility than I think the lockout for the generator is the way to go. Thanks!
I have a transfer switch for my gasonline mobile generator. Can I use that same transfer switch for Ecoflow Solar generator?
Depends on a lot a factors but probably yes if the plug and wire are rated for the max current and the gas generator and EF are both 240 or both 120. Consult an electrician...
Nice work brother. Thanks for sharing. God Bless brother.
Hey Bobby, How are things going over at your place. I need to stop by your channel and get caught up. Thanks!
Does your system send energy back to the grid after batteries are topped off ?
It does not. That would be better in a way as I waste energy once everything is topped off and I have no "dump load" uses. I chose to do it this way as I did not want to be subject to any potential problems with the utility down the road. They have NO say over my system. To them, I look the same as having a backup generator except in my case its running ALL the time. When I get my Tesla Cyber Truck, there will be no wasted power anymore. Thanks!
@Homestead Engineering . Nice content. I'm doing a set up similar to yours. I noticed that you connected the ground and neutral wires from the transfer switch to you sub panel but removed the neutral and ground from being connected to you inverter.
Question. What are the wire and voltage outputs of your inverter from your battery bank solar setup which go to the transfer switch?
David, I did connect the ground and neutral from the transfer switch to the panel but did not connect them back to the solar system because they are already tied back to the main panel in a different path. i.e. there is continuity but only tied at one location. I used oversized 6/3 wire and the voltage is split phase 240. Thanks!
Thanks for replying. I subscribed!
Follow up question.
So in your previous solar/ transfer switch video, was the same principle applied in removing ground and neutral? Or was it there that neutral and ground were connected from inverter to transfer switch to panel and hence the reason you would now already have continuity.
@@david32151 They were not connected there either. Its been a while but I think they were only connected at the AC input to the solar power system. So basically:
1. I have two 150A main panels
2. One of those main panels feeds a 100A sub panel in my solar/prepper room
3. That sub panel can act as an input to my solar power system although I never use it that way. I would only use it if a storm was coming and I needed to top off my batteries with the utility before it goes out. I normally have that disconnected to avoid any noise input from the utility
4. That sub panel is where the common and ground are tied from the solar power back to the mains.
5. The common and ground are not tied anywhere else. Not any any of the three transfer panels. They all have continuity because they are already tied.
Check this: th-cam.com/video/DvfReskBReQ/w-d-xo.html
and this: th-cam.com/video/4HhfdzBunSc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering That's fantastic. Your videos are very helpful and incredibly informative. As an engineer, I like to hear the thinking process (the why) as well as the how, and you do that very well. Ok,, i have the exact same setup as you, but I have NO AC GRID TIE backup to my solar system - it is 100% standalone. I am also connecting it to my sub-panel with the ground and neutral NOT BONDED per code just like yours. The sub-panel is currently connected to the house main (which has neutral/ground bonded in that panel). The question, as there is NO path back from my solar system to the main's neutral/ground, would you join the transfer switch ground and neutral instead of what you did here - float them?
You should do the attic work in July just because it's much more fun
Jerry, It was plenty fun enough in 70F. I may be getting too old for this... :)
@@HomesteadEngineering we just finished moving and getting my wife's work room setup and I am definitely too damn old to try this again
Thank you for this video :) :) I am doing the same thing but running my stuff off some large power stations and about 1700 watts of solar. Quick question....Which type of conduit did you use to go between boxes? The stuff that came with the transfer switch is NOT FLEXIBLE at all!
Jasonoid, I am not an Electrician so I can't advise anyone on what they should do. I also do not know what would meet your local codes. That said, I will simple state that I think this stuff is fairly flexible: www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Ultratite-Non-Metal-Liquid-tight-25-ft-Conduit-Common-1-2-in-Actual-0-5-in/1000239881
Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering Hey, totally understand, thanks for the recommendation haha
Great video, these units are pretty neat but can be expensive. So the generator and or inverter share the mains neutral?
That is correct
Thanks for the video. I'm in the process of hooking up that same transfer switch. Not hooking up the ground from you solar system so you don't get a ground loop makes sence, but I wasn't thinking about the common not getting hooked up between the solar system and the transfer switch. You may have saved me a lot of trouble there. So, is your solar system ground to the same ground as the main panel, or a separate one on its own ground rod(s)?
I find grounding to be a black art but basically I believe that your common and ground should only be bonded in one place and that one place is the main panel. That's how I built my system. Since the solar side (common and ground wires) already run back to the main and are bonded there, connecting them again in this sub panel would create a ground loop. One way to check, is to check for continuity before you make the connection. If it rings out, then its already connected somewhere else. That said, I am not an Electrician and you have to do your own research. Thanks!
Can you please help me understand this. In the video you say you left the ground and neutral floating in the transfer switch. Does this mean you didn't splice the two neutrals together or does it mean you didn't bond the neutral and ground together?
Hi Sir, thank you for your informative video. I did have one question. I do plan on wiring up the same exact transfer switch next to my sub panel, if I wanted some circuits from my main panel (right on other side of wall) to be wired to a transfer switch, would I need a separate generator and transfer switch or would I just wire up the circuits from the main panel the same way?
Note: I do plan on hiring an electrician to do the final job, but just more curious if you can power circuits from main panel and sub panel from the same transfer switch panel so I don’t get overcharged or ripped off. Thanks for any input and I understand you can’t give official advice, :)
Hello Mike, Glad that you will be hiring a professional for this. I don't see why you can't wire your transfer panel as you have described in terms of functionality. I think it would work as long as you get the grounds and commons correct. That said, I can see why it may be a code violation due to the complexity. A new home owner may be injured as they may not understand that both panels could be "hot" even when both main breakers are off. i.e. its just a bit "non-standard". Hopefully your Electrician will know for sure if its doable. Thanks!
Thanks for your reply!
So could I use this from my generator main power to my solar
Not sure what you mean???
Busy boy. Expanding the system
Hello Roy, Thanks for stopping by.
Man, this might be exactly what I’m looking for. Especially during outages when the sun is out, I can still take advantage of the solar power.
Did you have to get approval from your utility company to install this?
I did not need to get approval from the utility but I do recommend that you hire a certified Electrician. Thanks!
If the input wires are only rated for 30a, youre gonna have a problem when your demand exceeds that...
That is correct and that is why I have a 30 Amp breaker on the input wires. Its a very good point to make and it would be very easy to exceed the 30 Amps if I did not take care in monitoring it.
Note for EV charging: I do charge our EV from this panel and since that is 100% duty cycle I am careful to not exceed 18Amps when charging the car. Charging the car above say 25A would likely create a problem even with the 30Amp breaker. I am also careful to not run any other major appliance off this panel while charging the car.
Thanks!