I think anyone who has undertaken modification projects working out of a home garage has experienced the level of frustration you are experiencing. However you do brilliant work , and have come up with excellent ideas for improvement. Your environment is however extreme in the winter (As you Know LOL). Hope you Hang in there , we all really enjoy your channel !!!!
“Come on hell of shit, go in!” 😂😂😂 this is possibly the best Mike bants in ages. So great to see ‘real’ mechanics. This is me all the time, swearing my way through one disaster to the next but ultimately solving the issue. First class video as always.
Your Jeep is no longer just a purpose built vessel, it’s now also a work of art! 😂. Keep your spirits up, we are all rooting for you. If I had the means I would ship you all the parts you needed from the U.S., but unfortunately I’m just a poor peasant.
ah nice to see you didn't get eaten/buggered by bigfoot while stuck. would love to come play in the snow but think i would just die when the landrover's axles exploded due to them been made from cheese, always good to watch you work not in the pervy way... proper 4x4 owner with all the colourful language while needing 3 arms and trying to juggle things.
I didn't see that other video, but that makes sense. Torquing that hub nut in the air is just like having a locker with a wheel bound up in the rocks; that's a lot of strain on the spiders for sure. Definitely could have introduced some micro-fractures that later led to the carnage, as normally a u-joint will fail long before a spider gear. Hub nut torque should always be done with the wheel installed and resting on the ground (or held with the brake) so that the stub shaft splines can take the force instead as they are much stronger than the spiders and don't deflect.
I feel for you, Mike. No one wants surprises like the one you got with your differential. It seems as though you are making the most reasonable choices given the constraints you are facing such as parts availability, costs, basic platform you are working with, climate considerations, etc. I don't blame you for feeling a bit discouraged but trust that your ingenuity will find suitable solutions moving forward. In the bicycle world, we talk about "lighter, stronger, cheaper--pick two." It seems like you are faced with a version of these choices in your overlanding adventures. Take heart and hopefully your future adventures will treat you with more (equipment) kindness.
In America.. well in certain parts of the country. We call what your going to do with the DANA 30 "Just Thug it out". Basically just deal with the shortcomings of the issue and keep moving forward
Agreed, I have a D30 with a Spartan lunch box locker in my XJ, great for traction but not as much when you are wanting to turn. A selectable locker such as the E locker is the way. I honestly enjoy all of your videos of the adventures,both workshop and wilderness
Thanks for watching and i'm glad you enjoy them! I will see if I can get an E locker, the trip I just did that's up this Sunday really shows how much I need one!
Upsetting as it is, don't give up. I would rebuild the Dana 30 with cheap used parts and stick with it - as a huge amount of work was done already. Last chance however... Our rigs will always let us down on some moments, but make us feel alive most of the time. Good luck
My God... It's just a continuous improvement program owning a XJ... I know that you know that and everyone else who love the vehicles... Awesome stuff. Keep up the great work. 🇦🇺🚙👍
Great work, some problems comes and goes, but thats the life of a mechanic man like you. It's a good feeling after to think back about the time spent struggling with stuff, but to get it done is very good feeling after. Especially when you can take the truck out on new adventures.
i believe the carrier break only affects the ring gear mounting surface. on one side of the break the ring gear mounting is closer to the pinion. I think lower ring gears (
so here in Alaska, we run lunchbox in the front quite often. when in 2wd they dont lock, my buddy runs his xj 35s, no studs all year round and he has a grizzly in the front.. in my personal vehicle i have a clutch type lsd in the front.. its honestly worse. what id recommend for you is a detroit trutrac.
Idk if I’d want to fully lock a d30 but if you’re just in snow using it, it’s not too bad. There’s some guys who use massive tires/40inch+ up here in north Idaho snow and get away with it on d30s, they keep the clearance and weight down. I’ve used a lunchbox in the rear axle of my dad’s Toyota and you have to just learn how to drive it. As soon as you lift off power it disengages so you can coast through a turn. Plus it’s not as bad on the front. They’re cheap: maybe you should try it, just see if maybe you’d like it. Won’t hurt in the snow. If you drive 4wd on icy streets you will have to baby it.
i was having trouble getting my diesel heater started - while i was cleaning the glow plug and air hole and screen that the glow plug sits inside i accidentally poked a hole in the bottom of the screen mesh.. i figured it was hooped so i just kept going and got it clean and put it back together with the bottom of the screen now just a hole - to my surprise it starts easily now and i havent had to clean it out since.. even with many many more start ups than the original setup. cheers
Keep your chin up! If anyone can make it work you can. I have a 1994 Bronco I’ve been modifying and some times I do throw a wrench or two. I agree with having an open front diff option. Even a TrueTrac with “lock” the front wheels and after that you head straight off into a ditch or worse. I have an Eaton E-locker in the front and I like how it works. It’s a little weird to flip a switch and it’s locked as apposed to hearing an air pump turn on first then it locks. And I’ve had air lockers and had them fail over and over again (air leaks and o-rings) I did have a failure of the e-locker when the tabs that keep the magnet from rotating broke at the small welds. Ordered the part and a pretty easy fix other than removing the diff to get at it. I do look forward to your videos. Keep up the good work.
Keep Ya chin up Mike, nice video, I watched every second of it and I can't even change a spark plug but I really enjoy watching people who know their stuff and you do. All the best.
I think you are correct that a piece of the spider gear caused your broken tooth on the ring gear. I think the spider gears are the weak link on the dana 30 front axle. In a 1965 CJ5 that I built, I installed a Dana 30 with 5.38 gears and I installed a spicer powerlock limited slip. The power lock has two halves of the case that bolt together, there are also 4 pinion gears and double cross shafts making it much stronger than a open differential. It also has very good holding ability. I think Yukon gear is now making a copy of the Power Lock, I haven't checked to see if they make one for the dana 30 lately. My first choice in your case would still be to go with a helical gear limited slip, they are very durable and will give you both front wheels spinning in most cases in the snow with good on road manners on snowing roads in 4wd. The other options are full lockers, but they aren't so good on snow covered slick roads. It is a shame that it costs so much to ship from the US to europe. My current Jeep TJ has ARB air lockers in my Currie High Pinion 9 inch axles. The ARB's are nice, but they leak air on occasion and they are very expensive. My last off roads rigs all had Detroit lockers front and rear and asside from being not fun to drive in 4wd on snowy roads, they were awesome. I also built a Jeep CJ7 with 1/2 ton chevy axles and I was on a budget, so I used Lockrite lockers front and rear and I never had any issues with them on 35's.
Hey Mike. Been a subscriber for a long time and also a long time XJ owner. I can tell you I agree 100% about a front lunchbox locker. A selectable is the way to go. Love the content you put out.
RCV axle shafts (30 spline) + OX locker (electric actuator). OX Carrier has 4 spider gears and this setup is rated by manufacturers to last 35" tyres in D30. That is what I got for my jeep from the beginning and looking on your issues it seems like it was good idea... I hope You will get on track with rebuilt diff soon! I know it is a lot of money but larger diff will lower your front ground clearance.
I am new subscriber to this channel and subscriber to @MCQBushcraft since 2017 (I have watched all episodes in times when YT didn't censor your videos). Maybe subject of this particular channel is different but one thing hasn't changed: high quality and informative content which is very enjoyable to watch! Thanks and good luck!
How I say last comment, take a look in patrol y260 or y60 diffs, y60 our y61 it's heavier them y260 and it's a bit work inverting the front one, but you never get problems again. Heads up. As I say, there is just no solution to death
I found a couple online. They aren't that expensive and in the long run I will save money. How do you invert the axle, just take out the shafts, swap tubes and rebuild? It doesn't seem that difficult when i think of it but I imagine its a shit load of work. I don't mind doing it, I will just take my time. Thanks again!
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Yes, you exactly invert the tubes, but in my case I didn't remove the tubes from the cast iron, I cut them, aligned everything and made several welding passes, slowly so as not to warp them. Only the patrol 260 has the cast iron middle part, the y60 is 61 doesn't have it, you have to cut it out. I can send some photos of how I did it to give you an idea
I don’t know, may I can be saying a nonsense thing. But as you face a lot and sometimes deep snow, wouldn’t be better you adapt something in the front bumper that would move he snow to the sides, leaving less snow for the Jeep push against its suspension and other parts? Could be something that you attach when needed, yes would put more weight at the front, but you would also have more traction and also saving you to have constant maintenance from parts that end up getting smashed by snow.
Mike, you need a set of JK axles if you insist on running 35's. The JK Dana 30 HP is considerably beefier then the pre 07 Dana 30's. The non-Rubicon JK axles would address your issues. That and RCV axle shafts. You could even go non-Rubicon front and rear Dana 44's. I know they're expensive but trying to beef up a Dana 30 that is only good to 33's max, will continue to cause disappointment and be cost prohibitive.
I don't think that your Dana 30 is exactly weak, although it is not a huge differential, The weakest part of it is probably infact the stock open carrier, they usually attend to flex and even infact bend under heavy work load, There is a guy from Florida that had a TH-cam channel called " Rusty 411 " that has a XJ with 40;inch tires that shows the ring gear flange on his Dana 30 being bent. If you would like to see some very good Dana 30 and 44 building videos, one TH-cam channel you may want to check out is BFH Garage, he is a off road guy from Colorado. Or another one is Dirt Lifestyle. They are both very good fabricators. Thank you for your videos. Keep up the great work. Tim from Wisconsin
It's not a bad axle, and I'm doing what I can with it. I have a differential lock coming that will replace the carrier. Also, some CV axles. After that, I won't reinforce it more. I think It will be as far as I take it. Thanks for the link, I watch Rusty and occasionally Nate. I will certainly check out the other guy you mentioned. Thanks for watching
So obviously getting parts is gonna be really annoying and expensive but 30 spline shafts with bigger u joints are about the same cost as normal chromoly shafts. The expsnsive part is the 30 spline locker but once you do that thats really the strongest dana 30 you can have. Just a thought since you are kinda stuck with that axle
Is a Landrover front axle not an affordable halfway house upgrade? I know there are less splines but the shafts are thicker than a Dana 30 and even in Norway pretty common I would think.
Hey Mike, I love the Jeep and all the time you spend on upgrades and repairs. When you are welding on the Jeep, do you disconnect the battery to protect the electronics? Thanks for the upload:)
wow, I just watched a video of pure magic. All the things you do I have no clue about whatsoever! I work with computers, but this is.... interesting :)
You get used to it being locked..you gas out of corners..plus your tires are studded.. People make a big deal of being locked on snow/ice..it helps just train yourself to drive through it ..
You know things are bad when your singing to keep yourself from exploding 🤣🤣 You did well to keep the lyrics clean, When this happens to me i come up with swear word i didn't know existed haha. Awesome vid dude!
oh for a replacement axle been as your in sweden.. how about a volvo c303 axle set? super strong portal axles with lockers should be able to get them easy and probs be cheaper than trying to get *jeep* stuff with your link setup should be jolly good. and even let you run somewhat larger tires.
He is saying that elocker is expensive and pain to fit in. Volvo 303 axels would cost him near 6-7k usd + massive amount of work to fit them in. Just not realistic. Also his car would drive like peace of shit on the road. Portals are cool, no doubt, but they are huge compromise in terms of reliability, part availability, and cost of maintenance
no worries just a thought with him been in Sweden might be able to get the 303 axles somewhat cheaper than *proper* jeep stuff from the us. Patrol axles could also be a option and while yeah abit of work to fit they are alot tougher. I know a couple of people running them under landrovers here in the uk and had no issues with reliability parts or maintenance, cold could be a issue if keep the vacuum lockers but can convert them to electric @@Aldan001
I know exactly where you are coming from re the Dana 30. My TJ has the even weaker low pinion version and I am working on a high pinion from an XJ to switch in, but whatever we do to truss it, add chromoly shafts, etc., etc. there is nothing we can do to make the ring and pinion stronger. So frustrating watching all the TH-cam footage of US Jeep owners swapping in one of a vast range of alternative axles, knowing they just aren't around in any sort of numbers in Europe. The only real choice is spend a kings ransom to ship axles from the US, or cross our fingers and run the Dana 30. PS what brand of chromoly shafts were they? Pretty shocked the U Joint took out a stub shaft on a chromoly.
Its tough seeing the plentiful axle swaps while all we have here are dana 30's. Even the 8.25 29 spline on the rear is getting rare. I'm using Ten Factory 27 spline shafts with the 5-760x joints. Saying this though my longer shaft side is totally dead now and I'm just using a standard shaft. The Eyes on the stub shaft are completely deformed and misaligned and I wont pay 400 euros excluding shipping for another. Thanks for watching.
Idk what the preferred corless tool brand is over there (Festool?), but they need to sponsor Mike! Lots of exposure, and Mike gets a corless Grinder. Edit: The R&P is the weakest area on the D30 you have built up. I'm surprised it was the carrier too. There has to be some form of 1 ton vehicle over there you can get an axle out of. If not. How about some sort of hybrid? I think you could fab a Ford 9" center and axle tubes (or something else strong, maybe an 8.8"?) and run D30 outer stuff?
I don't think it's a good idea to weld the caps on. The movement in the radial direction is necessary to avoid misalignment when the joint bends. If you weld it tightly it will destroy your bearings. In general, with bearings you only have to have a press fit where the load rotates. With a point load, the caps must have a small amount of play and they can move radially. On your cardan shaft, the cross joints are secured with locking rings because the shaft does not have any intermediate bearings. One end of the front axle is mounted in the wheel hub and the other part is guided in the axle tube. If you drive with them stuck you will destroy the whole axle!!! Sorry for my english and best regards from Belgium Tobia
Приветствую!!!! Если хочешь чтобы было все надежно, то ставь мосты от Ниссан Патрол!!! Их много, и запчастей то же. Они очень крепкие!!!!! Не благодари!
hei, If worried about dana 30 check out Rusty 411 that ones a beast and he has it all explained on the workflow, if you can muddit you can definetly snowit
Regards. I have a problem with my VM which I cannot solve, the car is rarely started, a week ago I wanted to start it but I noticed that there was no glow plug light, I connected the glow plugs for a short time and the engine started. However, it turned out that there was no indication of engine speed and no charging. I don't know where to look anymore
When the car is running, press the glass on the instrument panel. You might have a loose connection on the back of the instrument panel. This might restore engine speed and charging
unfortunately without result. Looking at the alternator control diagram, I replaced the ECU to be sure. also without any results. error checking does not work either. While dismantling the counter panel, I found another computer with an aluminum casing..@@WorkshoptoWilderness
I'm on team dana 30. The snow is hard on it for sure but the e locker will clean up a lot of those concerns about internal. Ujoint will be your fail point, and that's what you'll want realistically. Shoulda replaced them spider gears at 25 years lol. Haven't you read the manual? Jk
Being able to control your Jeep and keep it on the road is highly overrated Besides you're an adventure channel think of how adventurous it's going to be not knowing whether or not you're going to make the corner just saying
I think anyone who has undertaken modification projects working out of a home garage has experienced the level of frustration you are experiencing. However you do brilliant work , and have come up with excellent ideas for improvement. Your environment is however extreme in the winter (As you Know LOL). Hope you Hang in there , we all really enjoy your channel !!!!
“Come on hell of shit, go in!” 😂😂😂 this is possibly the best Mike bants in ages. So great to see ‘real’ mechanics. This is me all the time, swearing my way through one disaster to the next but ultimately solving the issue. First class video as always.
Just played that part to my wife, to show it isn't just me 😂
I wish your channel would blow up to a million subs and you have all the money to buy whatever you dream of.
Thank you, that's really kind of you! It certainly would be nice haha.
Your Jeep is no longer just a purpose built vessel, it’s now also a work of art! 😂. Keep your spirits up, we are all rooting for you. If I had the means I would ship you all the parts you needed from the U.S., but unfortunately I’m just a poor peasant.
ah nice to see you didn't get eaten/buggered by bigfoot while stuck. would love to come play in the snow but think i would just die when the landrover's axles exploded due to them been made from cheese, always good to watch you work not in the pervy way... proper 4x4 owner with all the colourful language while needing 3 arms and trying to juggle things.
I feel your pain Mike, swearing at your your truck has me in tears! Good to see I’m not alone
Such an inspiration! I wish working on my Touareg was that simple…. It makes me want to get my Montero up and running! Thanks for your content Mike.
If it works it works at least big foot will be happy to see you out and about. Catch you on the next one 👌
I didn't see that other video, but that makes sense. Torquing that hub nut in the air is just like having a locker with a wheel bound up in the rocks; that's a lot of strain on the spiders for sure. Definitely could have introduced some micro-fractures that later led to the carnage, as normally a u-joint will fail long before a spider gear. Hub nut torque should always be done with the wheel installed and resting on the ground (or held with the brake) so that the stub shaft splines can take the force instead as they are much stronger than the spiders and don't deflect.
I feel for you, Mike. No one wants surprises like the one you got with your differential. It seems as though you are making the most reasonable choices given the constraints you are facing such as parts availability, costs, basic platform you are working with, climate considerations, etc. I don't blame you for feeling a bit discouraged but trust that your ingenuity will find suitable solutions moving forward. In the bicycle world, we talk about "lighter, stronger, cheaper--pick two." It seems like you are faced with a version of these choices in your overlanding adventures. Take heart and hopefully your future adventures will treat you with more (equipment) kindness.
In America.. well in certain parts of the country. We call what your going to do with the DANA 30 "Just Thug it out". Basically just deal with the shortcomings of the issue and keep moving forward
Agreed, I have a D30 with a Spartan lunch box locker in my XJ, great for traction but not as much when you are wanting to turn. A selectable locker such as the E locker is the way.
I honestly enjoy all of your videos of the adventures,both workshop and wilderness
Thanks for watching and i'm glad you enjoy them! I will see if I can get an E locker, the trip I just did that's up this Sunday really shows how much I need one!
Upsetting as it is, don't give up.
I would rebuild the Dana 30 with cheap used parts and stick with it - as a huge amount of work was done already. Last chance however...
Our rigs will always let us down on some moments, but make us feel alive most of the time.
Good luck
My God... It's just a continuous improvement program owning a XJ... I know that you know that and everyone else who love the vehicles... Awesome stuff. Keep up the great work. 🇦🇺🚙👍
Great work, some problems comes and goes, but thats the life of a mechanic man like you.
It's a good feeling after to think back about the time spent struggling with stuff, but to get it done is very good feeling after. Especially when you can take the truck out on new adventures.
i believe the carrier break only affects the ring gear mounting surface. on one side of the break the ring gear mounting is closer to the pinion. I think lower ring gears (
so here in Alaska, we run lunchbox in the front quite often. when in 2wd they dont lock, my buddy runs his xj 35s, no studs all year round and he has a grizzly in the front.. in my personal vehicle i have a clutch type lsd in the front.. its honestly worse. what id recommend for you is a detroit trutrac.
Idk if I’d want to fully lock a d30 but if you’re just in snow using it, it’s not too bad. There’s some guys who use massive tires/40inch+ up here in north Idaho snow and get away with it on d30s, they keep the clearance and weight down.
I’ve used a lunchbox in the rear axle of my dad’s Toyota and you have to just learn how to drive it. As soon as you lift off power it disengages so you can coast through a turn. Plus it’s not as bad on the front. They’re cheap: maybe you should try it, just see if maybe you’d like it. Won’t hurt in the snow. If you drive 4wd on icy streets you will have to baby it.
It actually blows my mind what you get up to with that jeep 👍🏻🏴
I have been thinking about using a spool and manual locking hubs. You could lock in one or both as needed.
It is possible that when the u joint let go, it put to much side pressure on the already worn spider gears
i was having trouble getting my diesel heater started - while i was cleaning the glow plug and air hole and screen that the glow plug sits inside i accidentally poked a hole in the bottom of the screen mesh.. i figured it was hooped so i just kept going and got it clean and put it back together with the bottom of the screen now just a hole - to my surprise it starts easily now and i havent had to clean it out since.. even with many many more start ups than the original setup. cheers
Все у тебя получится Майк, удачи и не останавливайся в своих увлечениях.Привет из Беларуси 😊
Thanks mate! appreciate you watching!
Keep your chin up! If anyone can make it work you can. I have a 1994 Bronco I’ve been modifying and some times I do throw a wrench or two. I agree with having an open front diff option. Even a TrueTrac with “lock” the front wheels and after that you head straight off into a ditch or worse. I have an Eaton E-locker in the front and I like how it works. It’s a little weird to flip a switch and it’s locked as apposed to hearing an air pump turn on first then it locks. And I’ve had air lockers and had them fail over and over again (air leaks and o-rings) I did have a failure of the e-locker when the tabs that keep the magnet from rotating broke at the small welds. Ordered the part and a pretty easy fix other than removing the diff to get at it. I do look forward to your videos. Keep up the good work.
Maybe the shock load from the u-joint breaking was transmitted to the spider gears,
Keep Ya chin up Mike, nice video, I watched every second of it and I can't even change a spark plug but I really enjoy watching people who know their stuff and you do. All the best.
Mike everything looks like it’s so easy to do when you do it! You are such an ispiration, keep up the good work!
I think you are correct that a piece of the spider gear caused your broken tooth on the ring gear. I think the spider gears are the weak link on the dana 30 front axle. In a 1965 CJ5 that I built, I installed a Dana 30 with 5.38 gears and I installed a spicer powerlock limited slip. The power lock has two halves of the case that bolt together, there are also 4 pinion gears and double cross shafts making it much stronger than a open differential. It also has very good holding ability. I think Yukon gear is now making a copy of the Power Lock, I haven't checked to see if they make one for the dana 30 lately. My first choice in your case would still be to go with a helical gear limited slip, they are very durable and will give you both front wheels spinning in most cases in the snow with good on road manners on snowing roads in 4wd. The other options are full lockers, but they aren't so good on snow covered slick roads. It is a shame that it costs so much to ship from the US to europe. My current Jeep TJ has ARB air lockers in my Currie High Pinion 9 inch axles. The ARB's are nice, but they leak air on occasion and they are very expensive. My last off roads rigs all had Detroit lockers front and rear and asside from being not fun to drive in 4wd on snowy roads, they were awesome. I also built a Jeep CJ7 with 1/2 ton chevy axles and I was on a budget, so I used Lockrite lockers front and rear and I never had any issues with them on 35's.
I apologies for enjoying your troubles so much. But thanks for sharing them with me.
Haha no worries, thanks for watching!
Hey Mike. Been a subscriber for a long time and also a long time XJ owner. I can tell you I agree 100% about a front lunchbox locker. A selectable is the way to go. Love the content you put out.
RCV axle shafts (30 spline) + OX locker (electric actuator). OX Carrier has 4 spider gears and this setup is rated by manufacturers to last 35" tyres in D30. That is what I got for my jeep from the beginning and looking on your issues it seems like it was good idea... I hope You will get on track with rebuilt diff soon! I know it is a lot of money but larger diff will lower your front ground clearance.
I am new subscriber to this channel and subscriber to @MCQBushcraft since 2017 (I have watched all episodes in times when YT didn't censor your videos).
Maybe subject of this particular channel is different but one thing hasn't changed: high quality and informative content which is very enjoyable to watch!
Thanks and good luck!
Really appreciate you watching on MCQ and now here!
How I say last comment, take a look in patrol y260 or y60 diffs, y60 our y61 it's heavier them y260 and it's a bit work inverting the front one, but you never get problems again. Heads up. As I say, there is just no solution to death
Patrol axles 100% the best solution
I found a couple online. They aren't that expensive and in the long run I will save money. How do you invert the axle, just take out the shafts, swap tubes and rebuild? It doesn't seem that difficult when i think of it but I imagine its a shit load of work. I don't mind doing it, I will just take my time.
Thanks again!
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Yes, you exactly invert the tubes, but in my case I didn't remove the tubes from the cast iron, I cut them, aligned everything and made several welding passes, slowly so as not to warp them. Only the patrol 260 has the cast iron middle part, the y60 is 61 doesn't have it, you have to cut it out. I can send some photos of how I did it to give you an idea
Patrol 260 2.8 D without turbo with original shorter ratio 36.7 -5.14 the shortest of them all, it's the one I have
Really enjoyable and interesting video. Sorry about the busted Dana 30. Can understand the frustration after all that work beefing up the axel.
I don’t know, may I can be saying a nonsense thing. But as you face a lot and sometimes deep snow, wouldn’t be better you adapt something in the front bumper that would move he snow to the sides, leaving less snow for the Jeep push against its suspension and other parts? Could be something that you attach when needed, yes would put more weight at the front, but you would also have more traction and also saving you to have constant maintenance from parts that end up getting smashed by snow.
Mike, you need a set of JK axles if you insist on running 35's. The JK Dana 30 HP is considerably beefier then the pre 07 Dana 30's. The non-Rubicon JK axles would address your issues. That and RCV axle shafts. You could even go non-Rubicon front and rear Dana 44's. I know they're expensive but trying to beef up a Dana 30 that is only good to 33's max, will continue to cause disappointment and be cost prohibitive.
Eaton tru-trac is a great choice for the front and rear as well.
Thanks for the advice. I will probabaly have to look for Nissan Patrol axles given I'm in Europe and there not that expensive.
Thanks for watching!
I don't think that your Dana 30 is exactly weak, although it is not a huge differential,
The weakest part of it is probably infact the stock open carrier, they usually attend to flex and even infact bend under heavy work load,
There is a guy from Florida that had a TH-cam channel called " Rusty 411 " that has a XJ with 40;inch tires that shows the ring gear flange on his Dana 30 being bent.
If you would like to see some very good Dana 30 and 44 building videos, one TH-cam channel you may want to check out is
BFH Garage, he is a off road guy from Colorado.
Or another one is Dirt Lifestyle. They are both very good fabricators.
Thank you for your videos.
Keep up the great work.
Tim from Wisconsin
It's not a bad axle, and I'm doing what I can with it. I have a differential lock coming that will replace the carrier. Also, some CV axles. After that, I won't reinforce it more. I think It will be as far as I take it.
Thanks for the link, I watch Rusty and occasionally Nate. I will certainly check out the other guy you mentioned.
Thanks for watching
Thanks!
Thank you! Really appreciate the support and thanks for watching.
So obviously getting parts is gonna be really annoying and expensive but 30 spline shafts with bigger u joints are about the same cost as normal chromoly shafts. The expsnsive part is the 30 spline locker but once you do that thats really the strongest dana 30 you can have. Just a thought since you are kinda stuck with that axle
Is a Landrover front axle not an affordable halfway house upgrade? I know there are less splines but the shafts are thicker than a Dana 30 and even in Norway pretty common I would think.
Never give up! Always love the content.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Mike, I love the Jeep and all the time you spend on upgrades and repairs. When you are welding on the Jeep, do you disconnect the battery to protect the electronics? Thanks for the upload:)
wow, I just watched a video of pure magic. All the things you do I have no clue about whatsoever! I work with computers, but this is.... interesting :)
Dear Mike, chin up, pip pip, carry on.
Thanks mate! A cup of tea and carry on as they say
Майк, я все жду видео когда ты приделаешь крылья винты и начнёшь летать 😂
Спасибо за видео, интересно.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks as always for the content Mike
🇺🇸🌎
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
Really appreciate the support and thanks for watching!
‘A small rubber toilet seat has arrived’ I absolutely lost it at this 🤣
The product imagery online was a lie.... haha Thanks for watching!
You get used to it being locked..you gas out of corners..plus your tires are studded..
People make a big deal of being locked on snow/ice..it helps just train yourself to drive through it ..
In Norway we use maldal inport. No
... Too bay American parts for the jeep 😊
You know things are bad when your singing to keep yourself from exploding 🤣🤣
You did well to keep the lyrics clean, When this happens to me i come up with swear word i didn't know existed haha. Awesome vid dude!
Yeah when the singing starts, you know your doing a shit job! Thanks for watching!
oh for a replacement axle been as your in sweden.. how about a volvo c303 axle set? super strong portal axles with lockers should be able to get them easy and probs be cheaper than trying to get *jeep* stuff with your link setup should be jolly good. and even let you run somewhat larger tires.
Это очень правильный совет, у нас в стране многие ставят мосты от 303 и колеса 38-44 дюйма!
He is saying that elocker is expensive and pain to fit in. Volvo 303 axels would cost him near 6-7k usd + massive amount of work to fit them in. Just not realistic. Also his car would drive like peace of shit on the road. Portals are cool, no doubt, but they are huge compromise in terms of reliability, part availability, and cost of maintenance
no worries just a thought with him been in Sweden might be able to get the 303 axles somewhat cheaper than *proper* jeep stuff from the us. Patrol axles could also be a option and while yeah abit of work to fit they are alot tougher. I know a couple of people running them under landrovers here in the uk and had no issues with reliability parts or maintenance, cold could be a issue if keep the vacuum lockers but can convert them to electric @@Aldan001
I know exactly where you are coming from re the Dana 30. My TJ has the even weaker low pinion version and I am working on a high pinion from an XJ to switch in, but whatever we do to truss it, add chromoly shafts, etc., etc. there is nothing we can do to make the ring and pinion stronger.
So frustrating watching all the TH-cam footage of US Jeep owners swapping in one of a vast range of alternative axles, knowing they just aren't around in any sort of numbers in Europe. The only real choice is spend a kings ransom to ship axles from the US, or cross our fingers and run the Dana 30.
PS what brand of chromoly shafts were they? Pretty shocked the U Joint took out a stub shaft on a chromoly.
Its tough seeing the plentiful axle swaps while all we have here are dana 30's. Even the 8.25 29 spline on the rear is getting rare. I'm using Ten Factory 27 spline shafts with the 5-760x joints. Saying this though my longer shaft side is totally dead now and I'm just using a standard shaft. The Eyes on the stub shaft are completely deformed and misaligned and I wont pay 400 euros excluding shipping for another.
Thanks for watching.
Idk what the preferred corless tool brand is over there (Festool?), but they need to sponsor Mike! Lots of exposure, and Mike gets a corless Grinder.
Edit: The R&P is the weakest area on the D30 you have built up. I'm surprised it was the carrier too. There has to be some form of 1 ton vehicle over there you can get an axle out of.
If not. How about some sort of hybrid? I think you could fab a Ford 9" center and axle tubes (or something else strong, maybe an 8.8"?) and run D30 outer stuff?
Nissan Patrol axles are the best way to go in Europe. Relatively plentiful and Mike has all the fabrication skill required to do the swap
I don't think it's a good idea to weld the caps on. The movement in the radial direction is necessary to avoid misalignment when the joint bends.
If you weld it tightly it will destroy your bearings.
In general, with bearings you only have to have a press fit where the load rotates. With a point load, the caps must have a small amount of play and they can move radially.
On your cardan shaft, the cross joints are secured with locking rings because the shaft does not have any intermediate bearings.
One end of the front axle is mounted in the wheel hub and the other part is guided in the axle tube. If you drive with them stuck you will destroy the whole axle!!!
Sorry for my english and best regards from Belgium
Tobia
Maybe skip the d44 and jump straight into a d60? Maybe better availability?
Keep on plugging away. It's all hard earned knowledge.
(Plugging....hard) ooo 👍
Awesome videos. Love the tourettes/ocd 👌🏼
Haha, thanks for watching!
Without telling you how to suck eggs, have you thought about running some centre pops in the ID of the shafts, then use some retaining compound?
You can teach me to such eggs because I don't know what you mean lol. Thanks for watching!
I’ll message you and explain what I mean. 😂
Приветствую!!!! Если хочешь чтобы было все надежно, то ставь мосты от Ниссан Патрол!!! Их много, и запчастей то же. Они очень крепкие!!!!! Не благодари!
Thanks for the advice and for watching.
a profanity fuelled episode Mike, love it
Time for a locker !!! 😊😊😊😊
hei, If worried about dana 30 check out Rusty 411 that ones a beast and he has it all explained on the workflow, if you can muddit you can definetly snowit
Regards. I have a problem with my VM which I cannot solve, the car is rarely started, a week ago I wanted to start it but I noticed that there was no glow plug light, I connected the glow plugs for a short time and the engine started. However, it turned out that there was no indication of engine speed and no charging. I don't know where to look anymore
Have you checked the fuses in the engine compartment?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness all of them and inside the car to
When the car is running, press the glass on the instrument panel. You might have a loose connection on the back of the instrument panel. This might restore engine speed and charging
unfortunately without result. Looking at the alternator control diagram, I replaced the ECU to be sure. also without any results. error checking does not work either. While dismantling the counter panel, I found another computer with an aluminum casing..@@WorkshoptoWilderness
Are there a lot of XJ's available in your country ?
I'm on team dana 30. The snow is hard on it for sure but the e locker will clean up a lot of those concerns about internal. Ujoint will be your fail point, and that's what you'll want realistically. Shoulda replaced them spider gears at 25 years lol. Haven't you read the manual? Jk
21:20, honestly I'm loosing it.....
Damn your jokes are so funny, my kids and I were in stitches.
Thanks for watching and glad you all enjoyed it.
Use zj front shafts !
Replaced to Dana 44 much bigger
If only I could find one! Thanks for watching!
Spicers are way nicer than the cheap ricers lol
but the Spicer is no longer "the Spicer", it also has a major downfall in quality. It's really hard to find good quality in any parts these days.
@@classic.cherokee mine are holding up just fine i have many in stock from years ago they are my precious lol
Your headlights are backwards .
They are advertised this way. They look like crab 🦀 eyes the other way.
😩
Being able to control your Jeep and keep it on the road is highly overrated
Besides you're an adventure channel think of how adventurous it's going to be not knowing whether or not you're going to make the corner just saying