Great video I like how thorough people in the comments are bashing you but this is legitimately this is how you’re supposed to do it. I don’t understand these people complain about your thoroughness
Thank you for being so detailed with all your videos. You do everything the correct way/by the book. I watched a few other video's where people are re-using the bolt, not properly torquing the bolt and pounding in the seal without the special tool. Keep showing us the right way to do things.
The real problem is the PCV system on these engines. Too much pressure builds up in the engine causing the seals to blow. The fix is to replace the intake manifold or put an old style PCV in the engine oil cap. Eco Tech engines are notorious for this problem(s)! If you replace the Front Crankshaft seal, the next time you might be replacing the rear crankshaft seal if you don't replace the Intake Manifold or fix the PCV system. Take the oil cap off the engine with engine running and see if you feel the pressure coming from the oil cap hole. If it feels sorta like a fan the PCV is not working correctly!
That's only true if the orange silicone bypass valve for the crankcase ventilation system inside the intake manifold is _missing_ entirely, or gummed up enough to be non-functional. Easy to check, and clean, during regular maintenance as I've shown here - th-cam.com/users/shortsqGBt5skZWLI If that orange flapper valve is there and functional, it's not what you're suggesting and the intake manifold and it's PCV system are fine. In such a case it's the more simple fact that GM designed the engine in their european division. So the seals of the engine lubrication system are just of relatively short longevity.
@@DrShock if the intake has oil in it, it's bad. Something caused the seal to blow or leak. You are in theory right. But there's more to check to see why the seal leaks. 25 years of experience has taught me many things that have shown me to look at things differently. You by your video said this is the second seal you've replaced. It isn't the seals causing the problem.
What I believe your quoting me on from the video is where I said we're going to go over replacing this seal as a follow-up from a previous video where we re-sealed the oil pan on the owners vehicle. I'm coming from an engineering background. Point is that this particular seal failing in and of itself does not justify firing a parts cannon at the vehicle. With european design engines, sometimes an owner just has to accept it really is just part of regular maintenance to clean the intake, replace seals and reseal pans and covers on a more regular basis.
@@DrShock As I've stated before these engines are notorious for seal blowing from too much pressure in the engine caused by PCV system. European or not doesn't matter. On Eco Tech engines the oil also is pumped thru the Crankshaft causing problems sealing both the Front and Rear seals not mentioned in any manual. The oil will leak thru both the front Harmonic Balancer bolt and the Flywheel bolts if both are not sealed with silicone or sealer to stop it. The PCV system is notorious for clogging up as the hole(s) are not big enough for the flaking caused by using Synthetic oil and it not being changed at a regular basis. You video states on it Sealed again. I've worked on these engines daily for last 10 years. The orange tab you're taking about is in the 1st Gen Intake manifold. The 2nd has a tab but is recessed where you can't inspect it without tearing it apart. I've said all this to help you not disagree with you. I started with GM in 1983 and ended with GM in 1988. I actually started working on vehicles in 1974. I don't know it all but do know a little. Even the knowable Techs at GM will tel you that the clogging PCV system is the leading factor to sealing problems on Eco Tech engines.
@erwinpadgett1050 sir I would like to ask bc I have a Cruze 1.4l turbo that has an oil leak I can't find where is the leak exactly so some mechanic in my area suggest to replace the turbo to fix the issue after a week or 2 the problem back again and still have an oil leak that idk who's cause it so my question do you think that PVC system is the problem bc I am so suspected it is the problem but I don't know how to test PVC system in my car so if you have any ideas to help me i will be thankful
Good video. Well Done. Lots of detail and I like that you kept trying to keep the camera angles so that we could see up close. Thanks for sharing Doctor ⚕
Don't forget that pin in the tensioner... $50-$120 mistake. Learned that the hard way while changing a belt that was beginning to shred. Noticed the shredded belt while in the middle of changing the turbo oil inlet line... While changing belt, noticed coolant was empty to find the expansion tank was leaking at the outlet hose. Fixed that 2 days ago. And..today I just noticed the hose clamps on the lower radiator hoses are snapped from age... Rewind 5 years ago. Negative battery terminal (fun when your car shuts off while negotiating a turn...) , water pump, timing chain guide came loose, stuck lifters. Fun times. I think this may be my oil leak...hope it is, this doesn't look like a difficult repair. The mention of the TTY bolts. Had I not viewed your video on the belt change, I wouldn't had known the engine mount bolts had to be replaced after removing them. Wasn't mentioned in the Haynes repair manual. Thanks.
As a machinist 33 years useing same bolts ok if not stripped think steel bolts must be junk steel use h13 steel bolts good life time as i used same bolts must be biggest engineered skam think can use same bolts as would not be afraid to use same bolt.
@@jodygwiinn1233TTY bolts stretch when used correctly, which you can’t always see visibly, but they do change shape from when they weren’t used to after they were installed so you should be using new ones for things this important
Aluminum used only for lightweight better gas mileage for government rule now next be elec moter then use tesla atomspere elec to stay charged or just drive around thunderstorm and add extra capacitor to charge up rest of year on one lighting hell may become back to future car think about it be free why tesla tower tore up
Looks like you found the leak which you narrowed down by noticing where the oil was depositing itself on the engine etc. Another possible leak on that side of the engine is from the two actuators ( one on each cam ) on the cams. That’s also an easy repair and can be done without removing any parts other than the actuators or if you like a little more room you could remove the airbox. If you’re DIY repairing these seals just note when removing the old seal, which side of the seal faces in as there is a vague manufacturing line on one side of the seal. That leak would be higher on the engine block so is easier to see and wouldn’t spew oil on the same areas
Hi great video! A couple of tips for those attempting this repair. Pack the back of the new seal with petroleum jelly around the spring area, that will help hold the spring in place when you strike the seal with the hammer/installer. They can pop off and it's difficult to know that once it's in. Second after you torque the 111lbs switch over to a breaker bar. Depending on your particular torque you may over torque the wrench ruining it's calibration.
Just replaced this seal on our Chevy Volt, (same engine block) but its more of a PITA as there is less room and they have to remove the front motor mount to get the belt off that goes from the crank to the water pump, Volts dont have mechanical AC pump or Alternators, So the belt is entrapped by the motor mount bolts. Took me and my son about 6 hours to do the job from start to finish.
My father in law is saying I'm supposed to pack this with grease and something about a spring inside the seal. Could you please help me understand what he means by that your video helped me out tremendously. I just didn't see you mention grease or a spring. I planned on oiling the new seal like you showed. Thank you! 👍🏼
You can show your FIL in the video, the direct from the GM service manual pages, that we don't do any grease whatsoever with a GM Ecotec crankshaft seal. On this engine the crankshaft drives the oil pump, right behind this seal. tbh, this isn't something I've ever seen on any GM engine crankshaft seal, only older axle seals. This engine uses a _bonded_ seal for the crankshaft. There are older seal designs (not for this engine) where you do see a spring on the inside that helps retain the seal tightness. But that's not what this engine uses. If you have the genuine GM OE seal, just flip it over and all you'll see is where the brown seal material is bonded onto the bare steel shell (the tensioner built into the bonded material with no visible spring). Then show your FIL, there's no _visible_ spring. ;-)
All it is is you fill the backside of the seal where the garter spring is and that prevents the spring from coming out while installing it. I just dielectric grease as it has no acidic compounds and is safe on virtually anything rubber, silicone, or plastic.
Wats the difference of leak of the timing cover and the crank seal ? How bad of a leak is the difference? Thinking about changing the seal but not sure if it needs the timing cover seal also
The crankshaft seal being worn out will _usually_ be a considerably larger and more noticeable oil leak than the timing cover gasket failing. You might start with making sure that the timing cover bolts are still at torque. Replacing the timing cover is a much larger project for this particular engine, as you have to pull the water pump and other components off to get access.
Start using marvel mistry oil will help seal sray soft and keep sealed up lube better and cleans carbon build up change oil every 5000 miles using cheap synthetic oil from waly world oil is always dirty looks like need change out every 3000 miles if use quart of mistysry oil
@@DrShock I wonder if a leaking crankshaft seal on the front passenger side of a 2006 Dodge Caravan would be the same sort of repair? Is a cam shaft oil leak repair something that you could demo as well? My new vehicle sprung a leak after an oil change, followed by a catalytic converter replacement (at the dealership) but it continued to leak oil and have a metallic scraping sound when first starting up. Tho' still under warranty, the dealership kept it for two months -- saying that they were waiting approval from "Chrysler Dodge" headquarters to replace the existing engine. Finally, I was told to just trade it in on a new car, which I couldn't afford. Several mechanics have looked at it, and said "it can't be fixed." I don't believe that a good mechanic can't fix "anything broken on a car." I don't even know if it's a camshaft leak or a crankshaft leak. It's a great little van, always passes "smog" and I keep the oil level very low, so it doesn't leave an oil puddle. I've owned my Caravan for 19 years now; I just wish I could get that oil leak fixed. Less than 100,000 mi. Everything works. But I don't take it very far from home, in case it overheats. What do you think, DrShock??
@DRSHOCK My daughters (17 yo) her Cruze is at the dealership now with a leaking rear main seal, intake leak, valve cover leak, turbo leaking and a bad water pump. Luckily it will all be covered under the extended bumper to bumper warranty we bought for it…. Question is what all will they be doing to fix those things? And will they check the timing chain and other things for wear while they have things apart?
I’m just a little confused about the the torque specs because I know how serious a 60° turn can be but in the video you said 110 pounds but in the book it says 111 pounds, so I’m just confused on which one is actually the correct one
Good catch. I clearly misspoke there as I was pointing right at that text but saying 1ft lb less. We're after the _exact_ value given in the service manual that I showed. So it's 111 ft pounds. I added a correction note to the video just now.
Mine is just barely starting to leak.Will replacing the seal eliminate the chirping that I’m hearing a lot of opinions say changing this crank seal will stop that chirping?
The sound you hear, if it is in fact coming from the seal area, is due to a crankcase pressure problem. Until that is addressed, seals will continue to fail. This is _usually_ a problem with the PCV system. Check if the intake manifold release valve has failed using this video - th-cam.com/users/shortsqGBt5skZWLI
If your chirping is not rythmic and is random, almost like a tick-chirp, its the alternator. I thought I may have an engine problem either chain or lifter or something because I was getting this chirp/tick noise. the weird thing was it was not continuous or rythmic, but random. turned out it was the alternator making the noise. it charged fine, just made this noise. changed the alternaotor out and it was all good.
I saw some other guys on youtube doing timing replacement and they said that the seal must be installed dry otherwise it will leak again. What does theanual say about it? thanks
You install the seal into the engine dry using the recommended driver tool shown in the service manual. This is important to maintaining an accurate friction fit to the engine. However, when reinstalling the balancer only, I do recommend _light_ lubrication as shown, simply to avoid damaging the seal lip during reinstallation of the used original. If for some reason you were installing a brand new balancer, I would omit this. This would just be an example of my sharing decades of experience as a best practice. What typically causes a leak here for this particular engine is wear or damage to the lip of the crankshaft seal, some type of physical deformation of the seal, wear to the balancer shaft, or the use of non-GM parts.
This is just a front crankshaft seal replacement in this vid, which is only one small part of what you have to address if you are looking at removing and reinstalling the timing cover. So just speaking to what this video covers, the whole balancer shaft area is *always* lubricated with engine oil during normal engine operation for this particular engine design. So obviously the balancer shaft does _not_ run dry on the _inside_ side of the seal. But it should run dry on the _outside_ side of the seal though. If not, you have a leaking seal and that's why one would watch this video. ;-) When you first re-install an used crankshaft balancer pulley assembly, I mentioned I recommend light lubrication to ease the reassembly of this part only. This is solely to prevent the used balancer shaft from nicking the inside lip of the new seal. Any assembly lubrication put here will be temporary, and eventually slung off during normal engine operation. At least for this particular GM engine design. Others engine designs may be different, and other engine designs may not warrant the reassembly attention.
Speaking from an engineering point of view, I would categorize concerns that assembly lubrication during parts reassembly leads to seal failure as falling into either a _myth_ or _mistaken belief_ category.
It's been awhile since I worked on that owners Cruze, but no I don't recall any noise associated with this. Just a pretty significant oil leak onto their garage floor.
i have to replace my oil seal on my 2014 chevy sonic 1.4 turbo the crankshaft bolt its not to be use again can i use it temporarly until i get one because im doing at home and i dont have a torque wrench or measuring tools
For a _temporary_ solution that's not a big deal. Just be sure that the bolt is safely secured tight enough not to walk off from engine vibration until you check it right.
It doesn't work that way, you have to do the degrees of additional clamping force. This is why the fastener is known as a _torque to yield_ type (it stretches).
Dr. Shock I'm having problems with my 2016 chevy cruze limited 1.4 turbo same oil leak as the one in the video I've tried and replaced seals what else could be the problem please help.
Only use genuine GM parts. Aftermarket parts for these Ecotec 1.4L engines often have inferior fitment. If you _are_ using OEM seals, then you may have damage on the engine cover the seal is pressed into, or pulley assembly that inserts into it. Inspect all the components that make contact with the seal (either the inside diameter of the seal, or the outside diameter of the seal). You may have a burr, dent, or other defect which is compromising the seal integrity and causing the leakage. This all presumes, of course, you have correctly diagnosed the source of the oil leak is this particular seal. These engines can leak from many places after this many years. Cleaning the whole area up and then monitoring the oil leak against a clean engine can help confirm the diagnosis.
Balancer looks worn and a partial culprit. Also, these have problems with the PCV (whole valve cover). Most vent too much, some not enough. Also problems with #4 side of coil pack corrosion.
First thing I noticed was that chunk missing…….. Harmonic Balancer no longer in Harmony. If it is “Only going to go in one way” then why mark it and then spin back and forth past your markings to shove it back in? Long as you have it in the relative same position you took it off in then you are fine.
Love the video.. but this does not work for the 16 and up models. There's a special puller that costs just under 200 bucks and up to 400. You need this to pull the harmonic balancer. I'm having this issue right now.
Thanks. Unfortunately, after 2016 GM introduced another flavor of this same displacement engine and kept the same branding but it's of a different design under RPO LE2. While it uses many of the same parts, it does have some service procedure differences which creates confusion. I mention in the video, and again in the description, this particular crankshaft seal replacement procedure applies only to the earlier RPO LUJ/LUV style 1.4L engine, which was used from 2011 thru 2020 in various GM vehicles like the Sonic, but not all. The 2016 Cruze *Limited* would have been the last Cruze model to use it.
@DrShock gm is doing too much on these cars nowadays. Have you ever seen the alternator on these 1.4 ecojunks snap bolts and fall off? We've had 2 at the shop this year. Smh Pulling the harmonic balancer is the big issue to replacing the timing cover.
I've only ran into bolts snapping off when they were previously over torqued, or from corrosion on cars down from northeast (rust belt) states. But otherwise, no haven't ran into this on Cruzes or Sonics. But then I haven't encountered anything newer than 2016 on either.
Oil seal leak on dipstik also used marvel mistry oil to help clean and keeps seals more lubed and sweels rubber to help from leaking why mistry secret dad taught me have sonic 150,000 milles all had to do replace oil seal on valve cover and tighten timing chain guide bolts as they come loose and make tapping noise but pvc good also have to belive in marvel oil
I think you overdid it. * mean you don t need all those specific tools. You can block the crankshaft/pulley with a pin you insert in a special hole like when you do timing replacement. No need for that square tool. Also for installing the seal you can use a big socket like the one from oil. To pull it out just use a hooked screwdriver. You are very good and attent to details, but this way it will take you 4 days to do a timing replacement
What I've shown is the _by the book_ professional approach, showing it straight out of the OEM service manual as closely _as possible_ using only genuine OEM parts. That's what I strive to make this channel about. It only takes the standard book time when done this way, not longer. You can of course improvise using what I've shared here as a overall best practices guide though.
@@DrShock You did not overdo it. I would rather you do it the way you did, by the book. Proper thing. Now, knowing the actual steps, I now which ones I can improvise if I choose. Then it’s on me. Other repair videos have to be viewed with caution, I’ve seen too many mistakes being made.
@@DrShock did you ever have to change out the intake on this vehicle? I’m getting ready to buy all the products in this description and hopefully it fixes my problem .
I've not had to do an intake on this particular engine, but I've done the camshaft cover (which is a failure related to when the intake manifold bypass valve checks out as part of the crankcase ventilation system).
U don't have to put it in TDC it can only go on 2 ways, just remember where the hole is at the time of removal, as for the seal anything can ply it out just don't scratch the wall, as for lube on the seal why, the idea is to stop oil not added lube. Only need to place it TDC is when you're removing the timing chain, u will need a kit to do that as it gives you the cam locking plate and the locking crank pin. Also, the timing chain gasket is known to leak as well, it's a pain in the bum to do, you need a day and a half of spare time for that, bloody Dawoo why did Chevy or Holden take on these pieces of crap is beyond me.
The GM dealership service manual provides a specific procedure, specific tools, and recommended techniques for this repair which are written by the GM engineers who *designed* this particular Ecotec 1.4L engine. Some steps _might_ seem redundant, or even unnecessary. But they are the GM recommended ones. For example, pre-lubricating the seal is indicated in order to prevent the inside sealing lip of the seal from tearing or folding during installation with the crankshaft seal installation tool. Does this happen often? No, but it can happen so the engineers provide a step that mitigates the possibility from ever happening.
@@DrShock, I just use the old seal and place it against new and tap it in, no special tools are needed to do this job, unless like I said removing the timing cover to replace that piss weak gasket that dries out down on the bottom right side which then crumbles, then you need the tool kit, well yes and no as all you need is flat steel to lock the 2 cams in place, top dead center a piece of cake to find, spending all that money for an over kill kit is over the top as I found out after buying the kit. Just remove the 1st plug place a rod or something till the piston gets to the top, this requires placing the crank bolt back in but use a spacer / sleeve on the bolt to stop it from going in too far as the pully is off. If the timing is out then you will need the kit to adjust the cams but I never ran into that issue, maybe if your tearing down the whole engine, work smarter not harder, yes the book will tell you how they recommend as a lot of people don't understand shortcuts as they are not mechanical minded, as for lube a new seal is soft so doubt that ever happening, but good how too by u I'm just speaking on my experience. Oh if you leak oil on the right bottom side between sump pan and timing cover that means timing gasket and what a nightmare to do, know wonder they charge around 1400 to replace. . All the best.
@@bobfisher1909 Yeah if anyone thinks their vehicle gets serviced like this at the dealership they are fooling themselves. Techs would never make money if they followed every last step to the exact T. Use a paint marker and mark the top of the pulley. It's only keyed to fit one of two ways and if your mark is at the top when you put it back on it's impossible to do it wrong. The pulley is not press on so there's no need to measure the distance. That procedure is there to make sure you pressed it in all the way before tightening the bolt. Replacing the balancer bolt is pretty important but I've never seen a single person put a torque wrench on one. To each their own. If you're working on your own vehicle you can do it however you want and there's no problem with that
So you pulled the tensioner from the top of the car making it look like you did it upside down from the video. I had to look at mine and think for a second.
The more extensions you use, the more torque you lose..thats not the proper way to torque things. Ive done thousands of crank pulley removals and installs and ive never had one where a deep socket didnt work. You also need to mention that the timing cover gasket is a huge failure on these too
It's a commonly misunderstood fact that straight line socket extensions have *no* tangible impact on attainment of a torque value. What does are swivels and this clues one into the laws of physics involved here. Keep your socket and extension in _centerline_ and there will not be any arc forces involved of concern to negatively impact the sought torque. There's a reason a well equipped tool box has three socket types (shallow, standard, and deep) in addition to an array of extensions. You do not have to make it a one size fits all situation.
@@DrShock it's not misunderstood. It's literally facts that extensions cause torque loss. And I've proven it multiple times... especially using chrome sockets and extensions on an impact...you don't do that. I've been doing this 15 years and I'm no genius nor do I know everything, but I can promise you that using a deep impact socket on an impact vs using chrome sockets and extensions there's a HUGE difference in torque...go try to remove a stubborn bolt with just a single impact socket on an impact vs using a chrome socket with extensions...the chrome extensions and sockets aren't gonna remove that high torqued on bolt.
Centerline extensions or deep sockets have no _appreciable_ impact on automotive fastener torque. You'll find OEM service manuals reference their use in order to reach the fasteners involved to achieve the torque values required. Loosely, you could review Newtons' third law of physics for why. Now chrome sockets, yeah they can be damaged by an impact but they are also inexpensive to replace and fair game to sacrifice in a pinch imo (aka I didn't feel like stopping the job to hunt for my misplaced impact socket). The reason the standard chrome socket will perform poorly in your example is the drive hole becomes distorted allowing rotational movement, thus reducing the effective reverse torque force of the impact wrench. An impact rated socket has a metallurgical design that resists this drive hole damage maintaining tight fitment. btw, Merry Christmas ;-)
@@DrShockAlso, there's NO reason to use some special tool on the balancer...take the bolt out, remove the pulley and reinstall. I just did this last week. Didn't use any special tool. It's unnecessary. You also do not need a special seal driver for the crank seal. A 2x4 works perfectly fine as long as you hit it gently in different spots. I just did it and had zero issues.
What a pain in the a** car 😣 I had the engine completely rebuilt.. replaced ALL gaskets/seals, here I am again two months later searching for the source of an oil leak.. seriously the worst engine ever made! was it the crank seal with yours?
This isn't my personal vehicle, but I diagnosed for the owner four separate oil leaks. Camshaft cover, oil pan, timing chain cover, and front crankshaft seal. I did a video on the procedure for all but the timing chain cover one. You can find the others in my Cruze repairs playlist.
@@DrShock Oh bro please don't say that... 😣 That car definitely had a bad PCV check valve. That would explain all the leaks but I have the PCV Fix installed and it still leaked !! The thing is, I did all the work myself. I already went through everything. The thought of starting over just makes me sick...😣 I hope it's just the crank seal. 😐
@@DrShock The leak came back again, I replaced the seal with a GM one and it's gone.. The seal I used initially was an aftermarket one, and it was so loose in there that I pulled it off with my finger
@@DrShockwhat about the leaking timing cover? why not do it all at that point? Do the turbo and the lines while you’re at it. Customer would be throwing a party. Ps don’t forget the oil pan..water pump weeping too hit em up Also you don’t need to hold the crank when you have an impact lol put a pry bar on the balancer
You don't need to fire a _parts cannon_ at a given problem. Take time to _diagnose_ specifically where the problem originates from. I like to use an ACDelco UV dye to give the engine oil this detection characteristic. For this particular vehicle, none of the issues you mention were a _current_ concern as these typical 1.4L issues had either already been serviced within the previous two years already, or were not applicable yet.
Great video I like how thorough people in the comments are bashing you but this is legitimately this is how you’re supposed to do it. I don’t understand these people complain about your thoroughness
Thank you for being so detailed with all your videos. You do everything the correct way/by the book. I watched a few other video's where people are re-using the bolt, not properly torquing the bolt and pounding in the seal without the special tool. Keep showing us the right way to do things.
The real problem is the PCV system on these engines. Too much pressure builds up in the engine causing the seals to blow. The fix is to replace the intake manifold or put an old style PCV in the engine oil cap. Eco Tech engines are notorious for this problem(s)! If you replace the Front Crankshaft seal, the next time you might be replacing the rear crankshaft seal if you don't replace the Intake Manifold or fix the PCV system. Take the oil cap off the engine with engine running and see if you feel the pressure coming from the oil cap hole. If it feels sorta like a fan the PCV is not working correctly!
That's only true if the orange silicone bypass valve for the crankcase ventilation system inside the intake manifold is _missing_ entirely, or gummed up enough to be non-functional. Easy to check, and clean, during regular maintenance as I've shown here - th-cam.com/users/shortsqGBt5skZWLI
If that orange flapper valve is there and functional, it's not what you're suggesting and the intake manifold and it's PCV system are fine. In such a case it's the more simple fact that GM designed the engine in their european division. So the seals of the engine lubrication system are just of relatively short longevity.
@@DrShock if the intake has oil in it, it's bad. Something caused the seal to blow or leak. You are in theory right. But there's more to check to see why the seal leaks. 25 years of experience has taught me many things that have shown me to look at things differently. You by your video said this is the second seal you've replaced. It isn't the seals causing the problem.
What I believe your quoting me on from the video is where I said we're going to go over replacing this seal as a follow-up from a previous video where we re-sealed the oil pan on the owners vehicle.
I'm coming from an engineering background. Point is that this particular seal failing in and of itself does not justify firing a parts cannon at the vehicle. With european design engines, sometimes an owner just has to accept it really is just part of regular maintenance to clean the intake, replace seals and reseal pans and covers on a more regular basis.
@@DrShock As I've stated before these engines are notorious for seal blowing from too much pressure in the engine caused by PCV system. European or not doesn't matter. On Eco Tech engines the oil also is pumped thru the Crankshaft causing problems sealing both the Front and Rear seals not mentioned in any manual. The oil will leak thru both the front Harmonic Balancer bolt and the Flywheel bolts if both are not sealed with silicone or sealer to stop it. The PCV system is notorious for clogging up as the hole(s) are not big enough for the flaking caused by using Synthetic oil and it not being changed at a regular basis. You video states on it Sealed again. I've worked on these engines daily for last 10 years. The orange tab you're taking about is in the 1st Gen Intake manifold. The 2nd has a tab but is recessed where you can't inspect it without tearing it apart. I've said all this to help you not disagree with you. I started with GM in 1983 and ended with GM in 1988. I actually started working on vehicles in 1974. I don't know it all but do know a little. Even the knowable Techs at GM will tel you that the clogging PCV system is the leading factor to sealing problems on Eco Tech engines.
@erwinpadgett1050 sir I would like to ask bc I have a Cruze 1.4l turbo that has an oil leak I can't find where is the leak exactly so some mechanic in my area suggest to replace the turbo to fix the issue after a week or 2 the problem back again and still have an oil leak that idk who's cause it so my question do you think that PVC system is the problem bc I am so suspected it is the problem but I don't know how to test PVC system in my car so if you have any ideas to help me i will be thankful
Good video. Well Done. Lots of detail and I like that you kept trying to keep the camera angles so that we could see up close. Thanks for sharing Doctor ⚕
I just bought opel astra with 1.4 ecotech engine.
Thank you for telling us for problems on these engines
Nice to see a detailed video done, and nice to be able to read some of the manual there too.
Don't forget that pin in the tensioner... $50-$120 mistake.
Learned that the hard way while changing a belt that was beginning to shred. Noticed the shredded belt while in the middle of changing the turbo oil inlet line...
While changing belt, noticed coolant was empty to find the expansion tank was leaking at the outlet hose. Fixed that 2 days ago.
And..today I just noticed the hose clamps on the lower radiator hoses are snapped from age...
Rewind 5 years ago. Negative battery terminal (fun when your car shuts off while negotiating a turn...) , water pump, timing chain guide came loose, stuck lifters. Fun times.
I think this may be my oil leak...hope it is, this doesn't look like a difficult repair.
The mention of the TTY bolts. Had I not viewed your video on the belt change, I wouldn't had known the engine mount bolts had to be replaced after removing them.
Wasn't mentioned in the Haynes repair manual.
Thanks.
As a machinist 33 years useing same bolts ok if not stripped think steel bolts must be junk steel use h13 steel bolts good life time as i used same bolts must be biggest engineered skam think can use same bolts as would not be afraid to use same bolt.
@@jodygwiinn1233TTY bolts stretch when used correctly, which you can’t always see visibly, but they do change shape from when they weren’t used to after they were installed so you should be using new ones for things this important
Especially aluminum as steel oxidize pulls alum threads use anti size on replacement bolts
Aluminum used only for lightweight better gas mileage for government rule now next be elec moter then use tesla atomspere elec to stay charged or just drive around thunderstorm and add extra capacitor to charge up rest of year on one lighting hell may become back to future car think about it be free why tesla tower tore up
Looks like you found the leak which you narrowed down by noticing where the oil was depositing itself on the engine etc. Another possible leak on that side of the engine is from the two actuators ( one on each cam ) on the cams. That’s also an easy repair and can be done without removing any parts other than the actuators or if you like a little more room you could remove the airbox. If you’re DIY repairing these seals just note when removing the old seal, which side of the seal faces in as there is a vague manufacturing line on one side of the seal. That leak would be higher on the engine block so is easier to see and wouldn’t spew oil on the same areas
Hi great video!
A couple of tips for those attempting this repair. Pack the back of the new seal with petroleum jelly around the spring area, that will help hold the spring in place when you strike the seal with the hammer/installer. They can pop off and it's difficult to know that once it's in. Second after you torque the 111lbs switch over to a breaker bar. Depending on your particular torque you may over torque the wrench ruining it's calibration.
Just replaced this seal on our Chevy Volt, (same engine block) but its more of a PITA as there is less room and they have to remove the front motor mount to get the belt off that goes from the crank to the water pump, Volts dont have mechanical AC pump or Alternators, So the belt is entrapped by the motor mount bolts. Took me and my son about 6 hours to do the job from start to finish.
Te funciono
My father in law is saying I'm supposed to pack this with grease and something about a spring inside the seal. Could you please help me understand what he means by that your video helped me out tremendously. I just didn't see you mention grease or a spring. I planned on oiling the new seal like you showed. Thank you! 👍🏼
You can show your FIL in the video, the direct from the GM service manual pages, that we don't do any grease whatsoever with a GM Ecotec crankshaft seal. On this engine the crankshaft drives the oil pump, right behind this seal. tbh, this isn't something I've ever seen on any GM engine crankshaft seal, only older axle seals.
This engine uses a _bonded_ seal for the crankshaft. There are older seal designs (not for this engine) where you do see a spring on the inside that helps retain the seal tightness. But that's not what this engine uses. If you have the genuine GM OE seal, just flip it over and all you'll see is where the brown seal material is bonded onto the bare steel shell (the tensioner built into the bonded material with no visible spring). Then show your FIL, there's no _visible_ spring. ;-)
@@DrShock Thank you very much for taking the time to respond I appreciate your help!
All it is is you fill the backside of the seal where the garter spring is and that prevents the spring from coming out while installing it. I just dielectric grease as it has no acidic compounds and is safe on virtually anything rubber, silicone, or plastic.
Great job
You the best doctor love you’re videos I’d work for you if we wasn’t miles apart
Wats the difference of leak of the timing cover and the crank seal ? How bad of a leak is the difference? Thinking about changing the seal but not sure if it needs the timing cover seal also
The crankshaft seal being worn out will _usually_ be a considerably larger and more noticeable oil leak than the timing cover gasket failing. You might start with making sure that the timing cover bolts are still at torque. Replacing the timing cover is a much larger project for this particular engine, as you have to pull the water pump and other components off to get access.
@@DrShock thanks for the reply
Update I changed the crank seal still seeing oil on the ground guess it’s the timing cover
Start using marvel mistry oil will help seal sray soft and keep sealed up lube better and cleans carbon build up change oil every 5000 miles using cheap synthetic oil from waly world oil is always dirty looks like need change out every 3000 miles if use quart of mistysry oil
@@DrShock I wonder if a leaking crankshaft seal on the front passenger side of a 2006 Dodge Caravan would be the same sort of repair? Is a cam shaft oil leak repair something that you could demo as well? My new vehicle sprung a leak after an oil change, followed by a catalytic converter replacement (at the dealership) but it continued to leak oil and have a metallic scraping sound when first starting up.
Tho' still under warranty, the dealership kept it for two months -- saying that they were waiting approval from "Chrysler Dodge" headquarters to replace the existing engine. Finally, I was told to just trade it in on a new car, which I couldn't afford.
Several mechanics have looked at it, and said "it can't be fixed."
I don't believe that a good mechanic can't fix "anything broken on a car."
I don't even know if it's a camshaft leak or a crankshaft leak. It's a great little van, always passes "smog" and I keep the oil level very low, so it doesn't leave an oil puddle. I've owned my Caravan for 19 years now; I just wish I could get that oil leak fixed. Less than 100,000 mi. Everything works. But I don't take it very far from home, in case it overheats. What do you think, DrShock??
@DRSHOCK
My daughters (17 yo) her Cruze is at the dealership now with a leaking rear main seal, intake leak, valve cover leak, turbo leaking and a bad water pump. Luckily it will all be covered under the extended bumper to bumper warranty we bought for it…. Question is what all will they be doing to fix those things? And will they check the timing chain and other things for wear while they have things apart?
I’m just a little confused about the the torque specs because I know how serious a 60° turn can be but in the video you said 110 pounds but in the book it says 111 pounds, so I’m just confused on which one is actually the correct one
Good catch. I clearly misspoke there as I was pointing right at that text but saying 1ft lb less. We're after the _exact_ value given in the service manual that I showed. So it's 111 ft pounds. I added a correction note to the video just now.
When threads pull just back off next bolt 1/4 turn
Mine is just barely starting to leak.Will replacing the seal eliminate the chirping that I’m hearing a lot of opinions say changing this crank seal will stop that chirping?
The sound you hear, if it is in fact coming from the seal area, is due to a crankcase pressure problem. Until that is addressed, seals will continue to fail. This is _usually_ a problem with the PCV system. Check if the intake manifold release valve has failed using this video - th-cam.com/users/shortsqGBt5skZWLI
If your chirping is not rythmic and is random, almost like a tick-chirp, its the alternator. I thought I may have an engine problem either chain or lifter or something because I was getting this chirp/tick noise. the weird thing was it was not continuous or rythmic, but random. turned out it was the alternator making the noise. it charged fine, just made this noise. changed the alternaotor out and it was all good.
I saw some other guys on youtube doing timing replacement and they said that the seal must be installed dry otherwise it will leak again. What does theanual say about it? thanks
You install the seal into the engine dry using the recommended driver tool shown in the service manual. This is important to maintaining an accurate friction fit to the engine.
However, when reinstalling the balancer only, I do recommend _light_ lubrication as shown, simply to avoid damaging the seal lip during reinstallation of the used original. If for some reason you were installing a brand new balancer, I would omit this. This would just be an example of my sharing decades of experience as a best practice.
What typically causes a leak here for this particular engine is wear or damage to the lip of the crankshaft seal, some type of physical deformation of the seal, wear to the balancer shaft, or the use of non-GM parts.
@@DrShock thanks man, have a nice day
@@DrShock so basically you re saying that if you do the whole timing replacement, then no lubrication is needed? Am I getting it right? athanks
This is just a front crankshaft seal replacement in this vid, which is only one small part of what you have to address if you are looking at removing and reinstalling the timing cover. So just speaking to what this video covers, the whole balancer shaft area is *always* lubricated with engine oil during normal engine operation for this particular engine design. So obviously the balancer shaft does _not_ run dry on the _inside_ side of the seal. But it should run dry on the _outside_ side of the seal though. If not, you have a leaking seal and that's why one would watch this video. ;-)
When you first re-install an used crankshaft balancer pulley assembly, I mentioned I recommend light lubrication to ease the reassembly of this part only. This is solely to prevent the used balancer shaft from nicking the inside lip of the new seal. Any assembly lubrication put here will be temporary, and eventually slung off during normal engine operation. At least for this particular GM engine design. Others engine designs may be different, and other engine designs may not warrant the reassembly attention.
Question: There are many sources that say don't lube the seal with oil and that doing so will result in a leak. Your thoughts?
Speaking from an engineering point of view, I would categorize concerns that assembly lubrication during parts reassembly leads to seal failure as falling into either a _myth_ or _mistaken belief_ category.
I think they mean don't oil the metal to metal surfaces (outer seal/block interface). Always oil the rubber part of the seal.
Was it making a cherping sound before you replaced it?
It's been awhile since I worked on that owners Cruze, but no I don't recall any noise associated with this. Just a pretty significant oil leak onto their garage floor.
Can I just use the crankshaft locking pin that came with my timing kit to tighten the crankshaft bolt?
i have to replace my oil seal on my 2014 chevy sonic 1.4 turbo the crankshaft bolt its not to be use again can i use it temporarly until i get one because im doing at home and i dont have a torque wrench or measuring tools
For a _temporary_ solution that's not a big deal. Just be sure that the bolt is safely secured tight enough not to walk off from engine vibration until you check it right.
Junk metal bolt
Is this the source of the engine squeak these motors are prone to?
It would be highly _unlikely_ for this particular seal to generate any noise. At least not the genuine GM OEM design.
Thats what I was wondering
What is torque spec without the additional 60 degrees
It doesn't work that way, you have to do the degrees of additional clamping force. This is why the fastener is known as a _torque to yield_ type (it stretches).
@@DrShock So after torquing to 111 ft lbs, slightly more than an additional 1/4 turn (45+ degrees) should suffice.
Been there... done that. And I mean, losing 2 quarts in 10 miles. Timing cover, and crank seal.
Did it fix the oil leak I changed the crank seal but I’m still seeing oil on the ground guess it’s the timing cover
@@3svtcobra you still got the Cruze ?
Those things were damaged as a result of you driving 10 miles?
My mechanic is struggling with this bad...he put one on and it made the leak worse ..so now he s trying it again and answering my messeges..smh
Dr. Shock I'm having problems with my 2016 chevy cruze limited 1.4 turbo same oil leak as the one in the video I've tried and replaced seals what else could be the problem please help.
Only use genuine GM parts. Aftermarket parts for these Ecotec 1.4L engines often have inferior fitment. If you _are_ using OEM seals, then you may have damage on the engine cover the seal is pressed into, or pulley assembly that inserts into it. Inspect all the components that make contact with the seal (either the inside diameter of the seal, or the outside diameter of the seal). You may have a burr, dent, or other defect which is compromising the seal integrity and causing the leakage.
This all presumes, of course, you have correctly diagnosed the source of the oil leak is this particular seal. These engines can leak from many places after this many years. Cleaning the whole area up and then monitoring the oil leak against a clean engine can help confirm the diagnosis.
Great engineering guys. Made it cost more just to replace a seal. 👍
Balancer looks worn and a partial culprit. Also, these have problems with the PCV (whole valve cover). Most vent too much, some not enough. Also problems with #4 side of coil pack corrosion.
First thing I noticed was that chunk missing…….. Harmonic Balancer no longer in Harmony. If it is “Only going to go in one way” then why mark it and then spin back and forth past your markings to shove it back in? Long as you have it in the relative same position you took it off in then you are fine.
Love the video.. but this does not work for the 16 and up models. There's a special puller that costs just under 200 bucks and up to 400. You need this to pull the harmonic balancer. I'm having this issue right now.
Thanks. Unfortunately, after 2016 GM introduced another flavor of this same displacement engine and kept the same branding but it's of a different design under RPO LE2. While it uses many of the same parts, it does have some service procedure differences which creates confusion. I mention in the video, and again in the description, this particular crankshaft seal replacement procedure applies only to the earlier RPO LUJ/LUV style 1.4L engine, which was used from 2011 thru 2020 in various GM vehicles like the Sonic, but not all. The 2016 Cruze *Limited* would have been the last Cruze model to use it.
@DrShock gm is doing too much on these cars nowadays. Have you ever seen the alternator on these 1.4 ecojunks snap bolts and fall off?
We've had 2 at the shop this year. Smh
Pulling the harmonic balancer is the big issue to replacing the timing cover.
I've only ran into bolts snapping off when they were previously over torqued, or from corrosion on cars down from northeast (rust belt) states. But otherwise, no haven't ran into this on Cruzes or Sonics. But then I haven't encountered anything newer than 2016 on either.
Oil seal leak on dipstik also used marvel mistry oil to help clean and keeps seals more lubed and sweels rubber to help from leaking why mistry secret dad taught me have sonic 150,000 milles all had to do replace oil seal on valve cover and tighten timing chain guide bolts as they come loose and make tapping noise but pvc good also have to belive in marvel oil
I think you overdid it. * mean you don t need all those specific tools. You can block the crankshaft/pulley with a pin you insert in a special hole like when you do timing replacement. No need for that square tool. Also for installing the seal you can use a big socket like the one from oil. To pull it out just use a hooked screwdriver. You are very good and attent to details, but this way it will take you 4 days to do a timing replacement
What I've shown is the _by the book_ professional approach, showing it straight out of the OEM service manual as closely _as possible_ using only genuine OEM parts. That's what I strive to make this channel about.
It only takes the standard book time when done this way, not longer. You can of course improvise using what I've shared here as a overall best practices guide though.
@@DrShock You did not overdo it. I would rather you do it the way you did, by the book. Proper thing. Now, knowing the actual steps, I now which ones I can improvise if I choose. Then it’s on me. Other repair videos have to be viewed with caution, I’ve seen too many mistakes being made.
Is this a turbo engine?
Yep
@@DrShock did you ever have to change out the intake on this vehicle? I’m getting ready to buy all the products in this description and hopefully it fixes my problem .
I've not had to do an intake on this particular engine, but I've done the camshaft cover (which is a failure related to when the intake manifold bypass valve checks out as part of the crankcase ventilation system).
U don't have to put it in TDC it can only go on 2 ways, just remember where the hole is at the time of removal, as for the seal anything can ply it out just don't scratch the wall, as for lube on the seal why, the idea is to stop oil not added lube. Only need to place it TDC is when you're removing the timing chain, u will need a kit to do that as it gives you the cam locking plate and the locking crank pin.
Also, the timing chain gasket is known to leak as well, it's a pain in the bum to do, you need a day and a half of spare time for that, bloody Dawoo why did Chevy or Holden take on these pieces of crap is beyond me.
The GM dealership service manual provides a specific procedure, specific tools, and recommended techniques for this repair which are written by the GM engineers who *designed* this particular Ecotec 1.4L engine. Some steps _might_ seem redundant, or even unnecessary. But they are the GM recommended ones. For example, pre-lubricating the seal is indicated in order to prevent the inside sealing lip of the seal from tearing or folding during installation with the crankshaft seal installation tool. Does this happen often? No, but it can happen so the engineers provide a step that mitigates the possibility from ever happening.
@@DrShock, I just use the old seal and place it against new and tap it in, no special tools are needed to do this job, unless like I said removing the timing cover to replace that piss weak gasket that dries out down on the bottom right side which then crumbles, then you need the tool kit, well yes and no as all you need is flat steel to lock the 2 cams in place, top dead center a piece of cake to find, spending all that money for an over kill kit is over the top as I found out after buying the kit. Just remove the 1st plug place a rod or something till the piston gets to the top, this requires placing the crank bolt back in but use a spacer / sleeve on the bolt to stop it from going in too far as the pully is off.
If the timing is out then you will need the kit to adjust the cams but I never ran into that issue, maybe if your tearing down the whole engine, work smarter not harder, yes the book will tell you how they recommend as a lot of people don't understand shortcuts as they are not mechanical minded, as for lube a new seal is soft so doubt that ever happening, but good how too by u I'm just speaking on my experience. Oh if you leak oil on the right bottom side between sump pan and timing cover that means timing gasket and what a nightmare to do, know wonder they charge around 1400 to replace. . All the best.
@@bobfisher1909 Yeah if anyone thinks their vehicle gets serviced like this at the dealership they are fooling themselves. Techs would never make money if they followed every last step to the exact T. Use a paint marker and mark the top of the pulley. It's only keyed to fit one of two ways and if your mark is at the top when you put it back on it's impossible to do it wrong. The pulley is not press on so there's no need to measure the distance. That procedure is there to make sure you pressed it in all the way before tightening the bolt. Replacing the balancer bolt is pretty important but I've never seen a single person put a torque wrench on one. To each their own. If you're working on your own vehicle you can do it however you want and there's no problem with that
Nice job. G.M. should have been allowed to fail in 2008. Unbelievable how these crackhead engineers over complicate our lives...
Crankshaft seal installer link doesn't work
Thanks. That EN-960 / OTC 6742 tool looks sold out on eBay already. Amazon doesn't carry it so you may have to google around for that particular tool.
@@DrShockyeah, it's out of stock in lots of places. Weird
So you pulled the tensioner from the top of the car making it look like you did it upside down from the video. I had to look at mine and think for a second.
The more extensions you use, the more torque you lose..thats not the proper way to torque things. Ive done thousands of crank pulley removals and installs and ive never had one where a deep socket didnt work.
You also need to mention that the timing cover gasket is a huge failure on these too
It's a commonly misunderstood fact that straight line socket extensions have *no* tangible impact on attainment of a torque value. What does are swivels and this clues one into the laws of physics involved here. Keep your socket and extension in _centerline_ and there will not be any arc forces involved of concern to negatively impact the sought torque. There's a reason a well equipped tool box has three socket types (shallow, standard, and deep) in addition to an array of extensions. You do not have to make it a one size fits all situation.
@@DrShock it's not misunderstood. It's literally facts that extensions cause torque loss. And I've proven it multiple times... especially using chrome sockets and extensions on an impact...you don't do that. I've been doing this 15 years and I'm no genius nor do I know everything, but I can promise you that using a deep impact socket on an impact vs using chrome sockets and extensions there's a HUGE difference in torque...go try to remove a stubborn bolt with just a single impact socket on an impact vs using a chrome socket with extensions...the chrome extensions and sockets aren't gonna remove that high torqued on bolt.
Centerline extensions or deep sockets have no _appreciable_ impact on automotive fastener torque. You'll find OEM service manuals reference their use in order to reach the fasteners involved to achieve the torque values required. Loosely, you could review Newtons' third law of physics for why.
Now chrome sockets, yeah they can be damaged by an impact but they are also inexpensive to replace and fair game to sacrifice in a pinch imo (aka I didn't feel like stopping the job to hunt for my misplaced impact socket). The reason the standard chrome socket will perform poorly in your example is the drive hole becomes distorted allowing rotational movement, thus reducing the effective reverse torque force of the impact wrench. An impact rated socket has a metallurgical design that resists this drive hole damage maintaining tight fitment.
btw, Merry Christmas ;-)
This is only for power / air tools
@@DrShockAlso, there's NO reason to use some special tool on the balancer...take the bolt out, remove the pulley and reinstall. I just did this last week. Didn't use any special tool. It's unnecessary.
You also do not need a special seal driver for the crank seal. A 2x4 works perfectly fine as long as you hit it gently in different spots. I just did it and had zero issues.
merhaba amotör tamiriciliğe başladım elinizdeki kitabı türkçeye çevirerek kullanmak isterim nasıl ulaşabilirim ?
What a pain in the a** car 😣 I had the engine completely rebuilt.. replaced ALL gaskets/seals, here I am again two months later searching for the source of an oil leak.. seriously the worst engine ever made!
was it the crank seal with yours?
This isn't my personal vehicle, but I diagnosed for the owner four separate oil leaks. Camshaft cover, oil pan, timing chain cover, and front crankshaft seal. I did a video on the procedure for all but the timing chain cover one. You can find the others in my Cruze repairs playlist.
@@DrShock Oh bro please don't say that... 😣 That car definitely had a bad PCV check valve. That would explain all the leaks but I have the PCV Fix installed and it still leaked !!
The thing is, I did all the work myself. I already went through everything. The thought of starting over just makes me sick...😣
I hope it's just the crank seal. 😐
@@DrShock Turned out the Harmonic balanced bolt was loose. Although I torqued it to spec..oh well..
Thank god 🙏
@@DrShock The leak came back again, I replaced the seal with a GM one and it's gone.. The seal I used initially was an aftermarket one, and it was so loose in there that I pulled it off with my finger
Good call on OEM parts. Always the right decision to avoid doing the job more than once. ;-)
That’s a weep - not a leak. What a waste of time and money. Hope this wasn’t for a customer - it’s a Cruze after all
*Leak* was fixed, customer was happy. Weeps do not leave oil drip stains on an owners garage floor.
@@DrShockwhat about the leaking timing cover? why not do it all at that point? Do the turbo and the lines while you’re at it. Customer would be throwing a party. Ps don’t forget the oil pan..water pump weeping too hit em up
Also you don’t need to hold the crank when you have an impact lol put a pry bar on the balancer
You don't need to fire a _parts cannon_ at a given problem. Take time to _diagnose_ specifically where the problem originates from. I like to use an ACDelco UV dye to give the engine oil this detection characteristic. For this particular vehicle, none of the issues you mention were a _current_ concern as these typical 1.4L issues had either already been serviced within the previous two years already, or were not applicable yet.
PTFE nie smariwac żadnym olejem ! Zalozyc na sucho. (To te bez sprezyny ) uzytkowac po 4 godzinach dopiero.