Well documented and a top job. We have the same bike, and had the same issue. I'd advise to be careful with the magnets, they will break if dropped or allowed to crack down onto each other or the stator, and the magnets cannot be purchased individually or as a set from Suzuki/Kawasaki. Easiest way of cleaning the magnets is to put them in a medium heat oven for a good few minutes. The resin wipes off. Floor tile spacers are ideal as magnet spacers. The reason for filling the gaps is to create a 'step' that the magnets cannot slide over. I went with a real thin smear on the innermost edge of the magnets, nothing underneath, and filled the gaps (or at least created a ridge between each magnet). Polarity of the magnets must be 'North > South > North > South' all the way around. I just used the 'opposites attract' principle of magnets, and offered the magnet edges together. If they repelled then that would be incorrect, as that would be North > North (or South > South). If they attracted/pulled together then that would be correct. One thing to keep in mind if spreading JB Weld under the magnets, if the layer is just a little too thick, the stator won't fit back in...and that won't be discovered until the JB Weld has set solid enough for reassembly. The stator you show on the bike is the same as the one you bought (and also what I have on my KLV). That Electrosport (Procom) stator has a higher output than the O/E stator. Fair dooz to you, this video will be a big help to any others with charging issues on a DL, TL, KLV or Cagiva Raptor. Thanks for posting.
Scarlet Turk thank you for your reply, i welcome all ideas as to how to fix this problem. interesting about the magnets in the oven , great idea !! the jb weld i had put onto the magnets, kind of squished out of the side upon application. so it did build a slight wall around the edges , hopefully stopping any movement. it was a strange synchronicity you picking up that peticular stator then calling dawn. lol . thank you again. pete
Good video mate thanks.. currently have a charging problem with my sv1000, battery all good, rectifier being changed next then on to the stator.. so ill need this video!! Thanks Edit: a bunch of magnets are absolutely shattered so replacement rotor coming tomorrow which was obviously lovely and cheap!!! Not!. Hoping just a straight swap! 👍
Dude you've save me not to set my bike on fire.. and let it burn as i watching..and smile. God damn.. i was going nuts over this charging problem. I will do what you did and see what happends. If the problem persist.. then fire it she goes.. i've had enough with the problems on this bike.
Good job, helped me immensely with my anxiety in making the decision of new flywheel or JB weld the magnets back in. About to go out and start cleaning up magnets. Thankyou
Good job! Currently broken down out in the desert in Arizona and I have been waiting for this to happen! Gonna drive in today so thanks for the refresher. They are really great bikes! So worth working on. They are rugged and fun to ride. Cheers!
I also have a 2003 DL1000 V Strom, mine has little over 50K miles. I've only had the bike 1 year, but the first thing I did was install a digital volt meter that I keep an eye. Everything is working fine up to this point, but not knowing all the history on the bike is a bit worrying on those rides out on the back roads here in the Great Northwest State of Washington, USA. If i did this repari I would definitely follow the advice of every other video I have watched on making this repair. That is using JB Weld to make dams between the magnets. Just my opinion of this subject.
Mine is doing the same thing I have a dl1000 Suzuki v-strom and my bike is doing the same I just got a brand new battery 3 days ago and it's dead and it's a expensive one so this helps I just wished u would show me how to take all that off to get to that point but this is helpful thanks
K3 1000 VStrom, same problem. About to open it up today and check it out. Saving $130 would be nice. Will update. Thanks for the video! (Didn’t realize Kawasaki made a version of this bike, they also did a joint effort on the DRZ400.)
As Pete mentions in the video, it has Suzuki Motor Corporation on the VIN plate. Apart from slight differences on front fairing and an adjustable screen, it's a Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom.
Thanks for a great video, Pete. I'm surprised that Suzuki has this type of problem. I'd be interested to know if that's a Nippon Denso flywheel. If it's not marked with the ND logo, then it's probably a Chinese-made POS bought by Suzuki as a cost saving measure. ND has learned a long time ago how to glue magnets on properly because they've already gone through warranty problems in the past due to faulty glues and/or not enough glue. Maybe, though, ND has farmed THEIR manufacturing out to the Chinese. That would be a VERY BAD THING, as we say in the trade. LOLOL
i think it was an original flywheel , i was lucky all the magnets were intact, i did,nt fancy replacing it , i had heard they are difficult to get to get off. jb weld seems to have done the trick though. cheers mate
Thanks for this great video Pete! Just bought a used DL 1000 so it might be usefull some day (hopefully not to soon 😉). I have just one question. How about balancing the flywheel? I can imagine any imbalance will be an issue at 9.000 rpm. And sticking the magnets in by hand they will easily be "off" by just enough to get vibrations. Is there a specific precaution you're taking or is some luck involved
Hi Pete, thanks for the excellent video. I am trying to help a friend with a DL.1000. Cant say what exactly his mechanic has done recently. The bike starts and goes to 14V. When revved, the volt readings drop. When the AC reading was done from phase to phase ( pre regulator rectifier ) with engine running, they were also reading approximately 12V and dropping down as low as 6 volts when revving. Wonder if you have any advice on this and the following 3 questions please ? is there a link for the weld bond you used ? Did they last long ? Is there a direction for the magnets to be placed where polarity may have played a role in causing this negative charging when revved ?? The impedance across all 3 phases was 0.6 with the engine switched off. the Rectifier diode direction test was also ok, Thanks
Shamalan On-Time first of all I would find ut what the mechanic has done ! pull the engine cover off to see if the magnets have come loose , its a pretty common problem, I thought my problem was coming from the stator ,as this also a common problem. I ordered a stator before I had pulled the side cover and then found it to be the magnets that had come loose. this would point ot the fluctuations in your reading, . The weld bond ii used is called www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/j-b-weld-twin-tubeJB WELD my bike is still good no problems . I,m a light user though, no big miles !the magnets only go one way. you will see when you pull the casing . hopefully they have just come loose. I would look first at the stator and conditions of the magnets , before going too deep elsewhere, you wll have to pull it to bits first have a look,its a pretty easy job. hope this helps ! cheers pete
@@pete3204 Thank you for your reply. In Malaysia, most mechanics are fitters with very lil theory. Talking to them would almost be talking to the wall. They still test with bulbs instead of DVOMs and insist it works....
Just a friendly advice from an electrician. Your charging circuit still has problems. All batteries need more than 13.9v to start charging. When your voltage is 13.5 the battery will still charge but at a rate 0.5a/h which practically means that you need 8 hours of driving to charge your battery. Normal behavior is at idle to have 14.2 even with the brakes on. Other wize at any traffic you will run out of battery at one point. A good charging system must always have 14.2 volts from idle which may drops to 13.6v if you use the alarm lights.
Typical electronic regulator/rectifiers used with a permanent magnet alternator (like this one has) are built to clamp the voltage at about 14.9 to 15.4 volts at 4000 RPM. ....depending on how well the battery is already charged when you run this test. Temperature also has an effect on the charging system performance.
@@rixretros Just read the service manual and you will have your answer. What you are writing is quite true but I have to correct a little bit some numbers. At 4000 to 5000 rpm healthy coils give about 56v (according to manual) and at idle healthy coils give about 20v but with less available current. So diac and trial compilation still operates even in idle giving a healthy result of 14.2 volts. A common charging problem is low idle rpm. It always the battery that tells what the charging system will be and never the opposite
@@mepanousispanousis6784 I do not have the manual you refer to but I have older and newer Japanese bikes with permanent magnet alternators on them. I have performed no-load tests on them and I will usually see 65-75VAC at 4000 RPM. Why would Suzuki make the VStrom alternator with so much lower output ?? Cost saving with less coils/magnets ?? Poorer construction because it is made by the Chinese ?? Who makes the VStrom alternator ??
@@rixretros www.manualslib.com/manual/792723/Suzuki-Dl650.html?page=367#manual Here is the manual online where you can see that actually the voltage at 4000 rpm should be 60v so it is really close to your findings
Hi, thanks for video, really helpful. 1 of my magnets have broken. Will a Vstrom flywheel fit despite being a different part number to Kawasaki's part number? Thanks.
I had charging issue twice on my Strom and both times been the stator. It’s been playing up again today so may be 3rd time. You would think with such an inherent fault Suzuki would do a recall
What year this bike is? It is a little embarrassing that such a thing happens in a Japanase bike. I am interested in the new 2020 1050 XT, do you know if they have the same magnet arrangement? I have doubts now about Suzuki...
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
Well documented and a top job. We have the same bike, and had the same issue. I'd advise to be careful with the magnets, they will break if dropped or allowed to crack down onto each other or the stator, and the magnets cannot be purchased individually or as a set from Suzuki/Kawasaki. Easiest way of cleaning the magnets is to put them in a medium heat oven for a good few minutes. The resin wipes off. Floor tile spacers are ideal as magnet spacers. The reason for filling the gaps is to create a 'step' that the magnets cannot slide over. I went with a real thin smear on the innermost edge of the magnets, nothing underneath, and filled the gaps (or at least created a ridge between each magnet). Polarity of the magnets must be 'North > South > North > South' all the way around. I just used the 'opposites attract' principle of magnets, and offered the magnet edges together. If they repelled then that would be incorrect, as that would be North > North (or South > South). If they attracted/pulled together then that would be correct. One thing to keep in mind if spreading JB Weld under the magnets, if the layer is just a little too thick, the stator won't fit back in...and that won't be discovered until the JB Weld has set solid enough for reassembly. The stator you show on the bike is the same as the one you bought (and also what I have on my KLV). That Electrosport (Procom) stator has a higher output than the O/E stator. Fair dooz to you, this video will be a big help to any others with charging issues on a DL, TL, KLV or Cagiva Raptor. Thanks for posting.
Scarlet Turk thank you for your reply, i welcome all ideas as to how to fix this problem. interesting about the magnets in the oven , great idea !! the jb weld i had put onto the magnets, kind of squished out of the side upon application. so it did build a slight wall around the edges , hopefully stopping any movement.
it was a strange synchronicity you picking up that peticular stator then calling dawn. lol . thank you again. pete
Yeah, I could see the ridges. I doubt your magnets are going anywhere from now on. ;-)
Scarlet Turk thank you for mentioning all of that. Appreciating wisdom from the VStrom community.
rode the bike today, all charging issues solved !!
Good video mate thanks.. currently have a charging problem with my sv1000, battery all good, rectifier being changed next then on to the stator.. so ill need this video!! Thanks
Edit: a bunch of magnets are absolutely shattered so replacement rotor coming tomorrow which was obviously lovely and cheap!!! Not!. Hoping just a straight swap! 👍
very nice work friend...I am experiencing the same issue. I will check the stator tomorrow and see if this is my issue.
Dude you've save me not to set my bike on fire.. and let it burn as i watching..and smile. God damn.. i was going nuts over this charging problem. I will do what you did and see what happends. If the problem persist.. then fire it she goes.. i've had enough with the problems on this bike.
good luck mate, let me know how get on !
and ? did it work or is it now a tin of beans
Good job, helped me immensely with my anxiety in making the decision of new flywheel or JB weld the magnets back in.
About to go out and start cleaning up magnets.
Thankyou
Huge huge thank you for posting this video.
glad i could help, cheers
Good job! Currently broken down out in the desert in Arizona and I have been waiting for this to happen! Gonna drive in today so thanks for the refresher. They are really great bikes! So worth working on. They are rugged and fun to ride. Cheers!
onlymarkallen good luck mate , cheers pete
thanks for the video, I just had the charging system on my 06 strom fail. I'll check the stater and then if it's not that check out the magnets.
I also have a 2003 DL1000 V Strom, mine has little over 50K miles. I've only had the bike 1 year, but the first thing I did was install a digital volt meter that I keep an eye. Everything is working fine up to this point, but not knowing all the history on the bike is a bit worrying on those rides out on the back roads here in the Great Northwest State of Washington, USA.
If i did this repari I would definitely follow the advice of every other video I have watched on making this repair. That is using JB Weld to make dams between the magnets. Just my opinion of this subject.
Mine is doing the same thing I have a dl1000 Suzuki v-strom and my bike is doing the same I just got a brand new battery 3 days ago and it's dead and it's a expensive one so this helps I just wished u would show me how to take all that off to get to that point but this is helpful thanks
K3 1000 VStrom, same problem. About to open it up today and check it out. Saving $130 would be nice. Will update. Thanks for the video! (Didn’t realize Kawasaki made a version of this bike, they also did a joint effort on the DRZ400.)
Marc Johnson Good luck , let me know how you get on . thanks
Don't think Kawasaki made these bikes, more likely a rebadging by Suzuki.
As Pete mentions in the video, it has Suzuki Motor Corporation on the VIN plate. Apart from slight differences on front fairing and an adjustable screen, it's a Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom.
Great fucking video!!! Just what I needed. Thank you sir!
William Love you are welcome mate :)
Thanks mate for pointing this out good fix keep up the good work
thank you my friend.
Thanks for a great video, Pete. I'm surprised that Suzuki has this type of problem. I'd be interested to know if that's a Nippon Denso flywheel. If it's not marked with the ND logo, then it's probably a Chinese-made POS bought by Suzuki as a cost saving measure. ND has learned a long time ago how to glue magnets on properly because they've already gone through warranty problems in the past due to faulty glues and/or not enough glue. Maybe, though, ND has farmed THEIR manufacturing out to the Chinese. That would be a VERY BAD THING, as we say in the trade. LOLOL
i think it was an original flywheel , i was lucky all the magnets were intact, i did,nt fancy replacing it ,
i had heard they are difficult to get to get off. jb weld seems to have done the trick though.
cheers mate
Thanks for this great video Pete! Just bought a used DL 1000 so it might be usefull some day (hopefully not to soon 😉). I have just one question. How about balancing the flywheel? I can imagine any imbalance will be an issue at 9.000 rpm. And sticking the magnets in by hand they will easily be "off" by just enough to get vibrations. Is there a specific precaution you're taking or is some luck involved
Hi Pete, thanks for the excellent video. I am trying to help a friend with a DL.1000. Cant say what exactly his mechanic has done recently. The bike starts and goes to 14V. When revved, the volt readings drop. When the AC reading was done from phase to phase ( pre regulator rectifier ) with engine running, they were also reading approximately 12V and dropping down as low as 6 volts when revving. Wonder if you have any advice on this and the following 3 questions please ? is there a link for the weld bond you used ? Did they last long ? Is there a direction for the magnets to be placed where polarity may have played a role in causing this negative charging when revved ?? The impedance across all 3 phases was 0.6 with the engine switched off. the Rectifier diode direction test was also ok, Thanks
Shamalan On-Time first of all I would find ut what the mechanic has done ! pull the engine cover off to see if the magnets have come loose , its a pretty common problem, I thought my problem was coming from the stator ,as this also a common problem. I ordered a stator before I had pulled the side cover and then found it to be the magnets that had come loose. this would point ot the fluctuations in your reading, . The weld bond ii used is called www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/j-b-weld-twin-tubeJB WELD my bike is still good no problems . I,m a light user though, no big miles !the magnets only go one way. you will see when you pull the casing . hopefully they have just come loose. I would look first at the stator and conditions of the magnets , before going too deep elsewhere, you wll have to pull it to bits first have a look,its a pretty easy job. hope this helps ! cheers pete
@@pete3204 Thank you for your reply. In Malaysia, most mechanics are fitters with very lil theory. Talking to them would almost be talking to the wall. They still test with bulbs instead of DVOMs and insist it works....
Hi man.. you are a life saver with this video.. BTW.. do i have to drain the oil from the motor before opening the altenator gasket? Thx in advance.
yes mate , drain the oil, makes the job easier, good luck !
Thanks for taking the time... Is there oil that needs to be drained before you remove the cover, or is it dry in there?
Just a friendly advice from an electrician. Your charging circuit still has problems.
All batteries need more than 13.9v to start charging.
When your voltage is 13.5 the battery will still charge but at a rate 0.5a/h which practically means that you need 8 hours of driving to charge your battery.
Normal behavior is at idle to have 14.2 even with the brakes on. Other wize at any traffic you will run out of battery at one point.
A good charging system must always have 14.2 volts from idle which may drops to 13.6v if you use the alarm lights.
Typical electronic regulator/rectifiers used with a permanent magnet alternator (like this one has) are built to clamp the voltage at about 14.9 to 15.4 volts at 4000 RPM. ....depending on how well the battery is already charged when you run this test. Temperature also has an effect on the charging system performance.
@@rixretros Just read the service manual and you will have your answer. What you are writing is quite true but I have to correct a little bit some numbers. At 4000 to 5000 rpm healthy coils give about 56v (according to manual) and at idle healthy coils give about 20v but with less available current. So diac and trial compilation still operates even in idle giving a healthy result of 14.2 volts.
A common charging problem is low idle rpm.
It always the battery that tells what the charging system will be and never the opposite
@@mepanousispanousis6784 I do not have the manual you refer to but I have older and newer Japanese bikes with permanent magnet alternators on them. I have performed no-load tests on them and I will usually see 65-75VAC at 4000 RPM. Why would Suzuki make the VStrom alternator with so much lower output ?? Cost saving with less coils/magnets ?? Poorer construction because it is made by the Chinese ?? Who makes the VStrom alternator ??
@@rixretros www.manualslib.com/manual/792723/Suzuki-Dl650.html?page=367#manual
Here is the manual online where you can see that actually the voltage at 4000 rpm should be 60v so it is really close to your findings
Hi, thanks for video, really helpful. 1 of my magnets have broken. Will a Vstrom flywheel fit despite being a different part number to Kawasaki's part number? Thanks.
i dont know mate , but this klv 1000 is a suzuki badged as a kawasaki, engine is a suzuki. tl , sv 1000.
What kind of glue do you use for the magnetic?
I had charging issue twice on my Strom and both times been the stator. It’s been playing up again today so may be 3rd time. You would think with such an inherent fault Suzuki would do a recall
Sorry I’m new to this I bought a dl1000 last week not holding charge to look at my magnets do I have drain oil has magnets holded ?
What year this bike is? It is a little embarrassing that such a thing happens in a Japanase bike. I am interested in the new 2020 1050 XT, do you know if they have the same magnet arrangement? I have doubts now about Suzuki...
Later Vstrom rotors had encapsulated magnets, so there should be no issue with magnets coming adrift.
My V-Strom turned one of the magnets to dust. So now I have magnetic dust all over inside the engine 😢
what was the problem that made you check the magnets??
the battery kept going flat !
I reckon mine needs doing🤔
Kawasaki nevera made this bike is a SUZUKI