Hi Terry, thanks for posting this. I have this thicknesser and the amount of snipe has always bugged me. Your tip on doing very shallow passes, 1/8th turns and running through twice at the same thickness, made a big difference and now I can barely feel the snipe. A couple of full length passes with a jointer plane (hand plane) avoids me having to chop the ends off. I think previously I was trying to take too much material off in one go and the planer blades would dig into the work piece on the infeed and outfeed when only supported by one roller. Just a quick tip for you on audio quality, if you get a lavalier microphone (which clips onto your jumper), or a microphone on a boom above your head, that should pick up your voice much more clearly. I can recommend the microphones from Shure.
Hi Don, I’m glad you like this and thanks for the tip on the microphone, I must invest in one as you are not the first to point this out, even my daughter tells me I must get one 😂. She uses a RODE, I must buy one instead of spending money on tools, all the best, Terry 👍🏼
Thanks Lyn, it does make a difference just make sure you don’t have any screws coming through from the other side of the tray, I sometimes use mitre adhesive instead 😊
This planer will always snipe on large cut/passes and/or when the infeed and out feed tables are lower that the middle bed, because the cutting head mech freely tilts (you may notice in other lunchbox style planer videos that they have a brake applied after adjustment, which locks the cutting mech stopping it from pivoting). What happens on the triton is; as the timber is fed through, when it touches the first roller, the whole cutting mech pivots {by how much depends on how much you are shaving off on each pass; deeper the cut the more snipe} so it's that pivot action that produces snipe. So as you've worked out, simply using very slight passes is the way to go on this style planer to reduce or hopefully eliminate snipe. Practicing good in feed and out feed form (keeping everything super level) is 90% of the process.
You are absolutely right Darren, I’ve started to accept it will always snipe, but i guess I’ve got used to it now, and as you righty say very fine passes is the answer, I may invest in a more expensive machine at a later date. Any recommendations? Regards Terry
Hi Terry, thanks for posting, this is really useful as I have been looking at one of these. I take it if you are using two sacrificial pieces they have to be the same stock/thickness and once used would need two other sacrificial piece's if you were wanting to plain more or could you keep using the same two pieces? I read the FixThisBuildThat article which has 6 suggestions but after reading the comments here and there it seems the get around is to do really thin passes ie 1/64th or 0.4mm which I think would equate to an eighth of a turn on the depth handle, then it is easily sanded. This is all supposition though from reading here and there.
Hi Baz, you are correct, you do have to use two more new pieces, I’ve since found there is so many ways to get round the snipe issue. I too watched the 6 methods on that video you are referring too. He has some great solutions. I wouldn’t let it put you off buying one as it’s still a great machine and most at this price range will probably be the same. I would still recommend buying one, thanks for watching 👍🏼 Terry
I’m thinking about buying one of these. Just by watching you, have you tried putting the timber through at an angle so the whole blade is being used resulting in only snipe in a bit of a corner? Nice video 👍🏻
Its funny I hadn’t though of that until a few weeks ago, but it doesn’t quite work, the machine doesn’t really like it especially on long pieces, it kind of straightens its self out, I now just make a tray or allow 2inch of cut off on the mitre saw
Don’t let the snipe put you off, it’s still a brilliant machine and from what I see all the smaller machines do it. You won’t regret buying one, I find Yandles are normally best on price 👍🏼
Hi Terry, really helpful tips. Thanks. Just a quick question, what size dust collection hose are you using? I can’t seem to find the right adaptor to connect to the unit. Any help/links would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Hi, I connect straight to my Record Power CamVac which has a 2 1/2 inch hose, it fits perfectly onto my triton and also is a perfect fit on my dewalt table saw too
Really helpful as I'm looking to purchase and was worried about snipe. I'm finding mixed info on the actual size of the unit. Can you please let me know what the machine actually measures with the tables folded up?
Hi and thank you for your comments, the reason you’re probably struggling to get exact measurements with the tables folded is because they don’t fold completely flat. On one side you’ve got the dust extraction port which stops it from folding completely. To get it completely folded flat you would need to remove the dust port every time. But with the dust port attacked its approx 380mm Including the feet, The feet are in fact the widest part of the machine If you go to my Instagram and direct message me I can post a photo to explain 👍🏼
Hi Terry, just found you from inst gram, I was having trouble seeing the video over there. A couple of little things , when you feed your wood in, make sure you have it flat to the bed before you feed it, if you look back you can see you have it slightly raised in your hand and instead of having a board going through the machine to extend the bed, make the bed at the front and a separate one at the back, that way it will help to make sure the wood is flat before it goes in and then you can have the sacrificial piece to push with from behind . I hope that makes some sort of sense, good luck !!
Hi Ron I must admit I struggle with long pieces, I have started to machine longer than I actually need and cut off the snipe each end. I still absolutely love the machine I think it’s brilliant. How you getting with yours ?
Hi Terry, You may have solved the snipe problem already but I suggest to watch a video from " I simply built it" channel if you haven't already. He built a sled for his Triton planer to reduce snipe and working on. I am struggling with same problem with my Scheppach jointer/plainer and looking for tips with no results yet.
The general rule here ( as well as the anti snipe jig ) is to take things slowly with these DIY/ light trade machines.. A bit at a time is going to get better results than trying to remove large amounts of material at a time.. If 'time is money' for you, then you need to spend thousands of pounds not hundreds on a machine.
I agree with all of that John, that was one of my first videos and I’ve learned a lot since then. I now use some other methods too, and I only take tiny amounts off at a time. 👍🏼
The voice is way to quiet . I turned volume right up to hear you, Then when you started the dust collector and the triton up I almost had heart attack..
These need to be set down like a mitre saw and also held down with bolts or clamps. The material must not be introduced to the cutting blade at a angle. In this video you can see the material is not flat or straight when entering
You are absolutely right, I’ve since bolted down the machine and built a platform for it, but still can’t avoid snipe, I guess you cannot expect perfection on a machine at this price, that said I still think it’s a great bit of kit 👍🏼
@@Terrythemaker Even an Dewalt for 800€ has snipe. All planers has the same problem. Ive found out a tip to set the infeed and outfeed tables slightly higher
Thanks Chris, yes sorry about that, it was one of my first videos straight from my iPhone, I’m still learning and hopefully getting a bit better at editing and sound now. But I appreciate the feedback, regards Terry
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Hi Terry, thanks for posting this. I have this thicknesser and the amount of snipe has always bugged me. Your tip on doing very shallow passes, 1/8th turns and running through twice at the same thickness, made a big difference and now I can barely feel the snipe. A couple of full length passes with a jointer plane (hand plane) avoids me having to chop the ends off. I think previously I was trying to take too much material off in one go and the planer blades would dig into the work piece on the infeed and outfeed when only supported by one roller. Just a quick tip for you on audio quality, if you get a lavalier microphone (which clips onto your jumper), or a microphone on a boom above your head, that should pick up your voice much more clearly. I can recommend the microphones from Shure.
Hi Don, I’m glad you like this and thanks for the tip on the microphone, I must invest in one as you are not the first to point this out, even my daughter tells me I must get one 😂. She uses a RODE, I must buy one instead of spending money on tools, all the best, Terry 👍🏼
I've just started making chop boards and had the same problem with this thicknesser, this is a brilliant tip. Thank you.
Thanks Lyn, it does make a difference just make sure you don’t have any screws coming through from the other side of the tray, I sometimes use mitre adhesive instead 😊
@@Terrythemaker Thank you Terry that's a good tip.
This planer will always snipe on large cut/passes and/or when the infeed and out feed tables are lower that the middle bed, because the cutting head mech freely tilts (you may notice in other lunchbox style planer videos that they have a brake applied after adjustment, which locks the cutting mech stopping it from pivoting). What happens on the triton is; as the timber is fed through, when it touches the first roller, the whole cutting mech pivots {by how much depends on how much you are shaving off on each pass; deeper the cut the more snipe} so it's that pivot action that produces snipe. So as you've worked out, simply using very slight passes is the way to go on this style planer to reduce or hopefully eliminate snipe. Practicing good in feed and out feed form (keeping everything super level) is 90% of the process.
You are absolutely right Darren, I’ve started to accept it will always snipe, but i guess I’ve got used to it now, and as you righty say very fine passes is the answer, I may invest in a more expensive machine at a later date. Any recommendations?
Regards
Terry
Hi Terry, thanks for posting, this is really useful as I have been looking at one of these. I take it if you are using two sacrificial pieces they have to be the same stock/thickness and once used would need two other sacrificial piece's if you were wanting to plain more or could you keep using the same two pieces? I read the FixThisBuildThat article which has 6 suggestions but after reading the comments here and there it seems the get around is to do really thin passes ie 1/64th or 0.4mm which I think would equate to an eighth of a turn on the depth handle, then it is easily sanded. This is all supposition though from reading here and there.
Hi Baz, you are correct, you do have to use two more new pieces, I’ve since found there is so many ways to get round the snipe issue. I too watched the 6 methods on that video you are referring too. He has some great solutions. I wouldn’t let it put you off buying one as it’s still a great machine and most at this price range will probably be the same. I would still recommend buying one, thanks for watching 👍🏼 Terry
I’m thinking about buying one of these. Just by watching you, have you tried putting the timber through at an angle so the whole blade is being used resulting in only snipe in a bit of a corner? Nice video 👍🏻
Its funny I hadn’t though of that until a few weeks ago, but it doesn’t quite work, the machine doesn’t really like it especially on long pieces, it kind of straightens its self out, I now just make a tray or allow 2inch of cut off on the mitre saw
@@Terrythemaker at least there are ways round it. Thank you
Don’t let the snipe put you off, it’s still a brilliant machine and from what I see all the smaller machines do it. You won’t regret buying one, I find Yandles are normally best on price 👍🏼
@@Terrythemaker thank you for the great advice. I’ll be using it for different sized timber.. I’m sure the snipe sands out easy enough. 👍🏻
Hi Terry, really helpful tips. Thanks. Just a quick question, what size dust collection hose are you using? I can’t seem to find the right adaptor to connect to the unit. Any help/links would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Hi, I connect straight to my Record Power CamVac which has a 2 1/2 inch hose, it fits perfectly onto my triton and also is a perfect fit on my dewalt table saw too
Thanks, Terry! Much appreciated!
Red means stop! 😅 😜
Really helpful as I'm looking to purchase and was worried about snipe. I'm finding mixed info on the actual size of the unit. Can you please let me know what the machine actually measures with the tables folded up?
Hi and thank you for your comments, the reason you’re probably struggling to get exact measurements with the tables folded is because they don’t fold completely flat. On one side you’ve got the dust extraction port which stops it from folding completely. To get it completely folded flat you would need to remove the dust port every time. But with the dust port attacked its approx 380mm
Including the feet, The feet are in fact the widest part of the machine
If you go to my Instagram and direct message me I can post a photo to explain 👍🏼
Hi Terry, just found you from inst gram, I was having trouble seeing the video over there. A couple of little things , when you feed your wood in, make sure you have it flat to the bed before you feed it, if you look back you can see you have it slightly raised in your hand and instead of having a board going through the machine to extend the bed, make the bed at the front and a separate one at the back, that way it will help to make sure the wood is flat before it goes in and then you can have the sacrificial piece to push with from behind . I hope that makes some sort of sense, good luck !!
ian elley that’s excellent, thanks Ian
I’ve since done another video to reduce snipe
@@Terrythemaker You just have the 2 at the moment that I can find, no worries, I'll have a look when its up , see how your getting on !
ian elley that’s tight the second one shows a reduction in snipe
@@Terrythemaker I can't locate the other video.............
MA - Michael Hi Michael I will have to take a look tonight because I’m currently at work, not sure what’s happened there
Thanks for posting. I have this machine, snipe is a pain. this method looks good. How about long pieces?
Hi Ron
I must admit I struggle with long pieces, I have started to machine longer than I actually need and cut off the snipe each end. I still absolutely love the machine I think it’s brilliant. How you getting with yours ?
Hi Terry, You may have solved the snipe problem already but I suggest to watch a video from " I simply built it" channel if you haven't already. He built a sled for his Triton planer to reduce snipe and working on. I am struggling with same problem with my Scheppach jointer/plainer and looking for tips with no results yet.
Yes I watch all his videos, he is a very talented woodworker, I think I’ve seen his video but I may watch it again, thank you 😊
actually Fix This Build That is the one I was thinking of, but I have also seen the video you are talking about
Thanks for this. Good way to solve this annoying issue.
was looking at this machine but do i just buy the DeWalt and cry once?
I must admit, I wish I had bought the dewalt and it will probably be my next purchase
The general rule here ( as well as the anti snipe jig ) is to take things slowly with these DIY/ light trade machines.. A bit at a time is going to get better results than trying to remove large amounts of material at a time.. If 'time is money' for you, then you need to spend thousands of pounds not hundreds on a machine.
I agree with all of that John, that was one of my first videos and I’ve learned a lot since then. I now use some other methods too, and I only take tiny amounts off at a time. 👍🏼
A great help - Thanks
Thanks Terry, useful vid. I've copied the tray idea, excellent results 👍
Thanks Morgan, I hope it helps 👍🏼
I’ve only just got my thicknesser and I was a little frustrated with it at first 😂
The voice is way to quiet . I turned volume right up to hear you, Then when you started the dust collector and the triton up I almost had heart attack..
james hetherington thank you James for your comment, I’m really new to this and take onboard what you said. Thank you 👍🏼
Thanks 🙏
Nice one, again, Terry. 👍
These need to be set down like a mitre saw and also held down with bolts or clamps. The material must not be introduced to the cutting blade at a angle. In this video you can see the material is not flat or straight when entering
You are absolutely right, I’ve since bolted down the machine and built a platform for it, but still can’t avoid snipe, I guess you cannot expect perfection on a machine at this price, that said I still think it’s a great bit of kit 👍🏼
@@Terrythemaker Agree .
@@Terrythemaker Even an Dewalt for 800€ has snipe.
All planers has the same problem.
Ive found out a tip to set the infeed and outfeed tables slightly higher
@@VoteEvilDrumsNow your right, I’ve started doing the same thing 👍🏼
Loads of good ideas but hardly any volume, ie, inaudible :-(
Thanks Chris, yes sorry about that, it was one of my first videos straight from my iPhone, I’m still learning and hopefully getting a bit better at editing and sound now. But I appreciate the feedback, regards Terry
@@Terrythemaker No probs, Terry. I wish you well in your next videos :-)
I have no snipe on either of my planers
Hi Cole, what planners do you have ?
@@Terrythemaker Dewalt 734 and a older model Ridgid