Hi, Thanks for Hanging Out! I'll show you how to change the blades on this or any similar style of thicknesser and give you a couple of tips along the way. I'll also show how to adjust the cutter head to get it cutting nice and flat from side to side. What's your best tip for thicknessers like this, let me know. I hope you enjoy the video and thanks for watching 👍
I've just bought and reviewed one of these myself but to see you change the blades was really helpful. I really like the way you keep your errors in there, rather than showing seamless content, like most TH-camrs do. Subscribed.
Hey, thanks for that, ditto. You beat me to it, I've taped a review myself because it's such an awesome little machine. I thought in particular it was good to keep that mistake in because it's easy (well for me anyway 😆) to get that wrong, but once I fixed it, it's perfectly flat from one side to the other. A great feature of it. Thanks for watching, appreciate it. Cheers.
I have the exact same planer. What I found out when adjusting the cutter head: After a lot of loosening and fasteing screws over and over again, is that the rod is spring loaded. So you can push it away from the sprocket with your fingers, and turn the cutter head on one side up or down as you need. There is no need for unscrewing the screws. (hope that makes sense, English is not my native language)
Hi J, that's great, I'll check it out next time I get it out and use it, I never noticed that before, so thanks for that. Thanks for watching, appreciate it. Cheers!
Hi Jim, it's a great little machine, I'm really happy with mine, your right too, that mistake is only made once 😁. Thanks for watching, appreciate it 😀
Many thanks for this. Bought one last November from ebay but the motor packed up a few weeks ago, and have just had a replacement delivered under the warranty. Unpacked it and put a piece of wood through it (half a mil cut depth) and it tore the beginning and spat the rest of the wood back out...jeez. Tried with a few more pieces with barely any cutting depth and got the same result. So just looked at your video to align the blades. I'll let you know how I get on with it...
Hi Rod, I'm really glad it helped you and appreciate the comments, thanks for watching and good luck with your machine, I love mine, it does a great job, so I hope you get yours dialed in too. 👍😁
Hi, good question, I don't know for sure. I've seen them for other planers this size, like the Dewalt 733, but not for this specific planer. I'm sure with some research you'd be able to find one to suit. Maybe start with www.shelixheads.com they seem to have heaps and might be able to help. I looked at them when thinking about a different thicknesser before I bought the Triton. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Hi great vids on this machine. I've just got this as my previous thickness planer packed up. On that design there was a wheel for depth of cut. On the triton I can't find a dial for depth of blade only raising the cutting head up and down the scale. I don't even know what the blade depth is. I've not run anything through it yet as I don't want to start on the wrong foot so to speak. Any advice? Seems a odd design not to have a depth gage? Phil
Hi Phil, you're right, there is no depth gauge for the depth of the actual cut. What I do, is measure the thickness of the raw timber and initially set the scale to that thickness and run the timber through, it will typically either pass through with very little timber being removed or none at all. It then takes just another pass or two to establish my starting point (no more than 1/2 a turn of the handle at a time at this point, I don't want to overload the machine accidentally 😀), then depending on the type of timber and width of cut, I use the number of turns or partial turns of the handle for the depth of cut. I really only use the scale to know I'm getting close to my final thickness. One turn of the handle is 1.5mm or 1/16th of an inch and the max depth of cut the machine can handle at all is 3mm or 1/8th (2 turns). I've never taken a single cut that deep! Because of the hardwood I've been using, I've typically taken only 1/4 of a turn at a time and the machine has done brilliantly 👌. Hope that helps, let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks for watching, very much appreciated 😁👍
Hanging Out With Hally thanks for coming back to me, yeah I tried 1/4 turns yesterday on ipe. It's left a nice finish. Ipe is rock hard so impressed. Time will tell. I'll stick with quarter turns, I did this with my last Machine which was significantly bigger and worked well but unfortunately only lasted two years. £650 plus that was so why spend more if the triton can do it for a few years. Cheers
Hi, Thanks for Hanging Out! I'll show you how to change the blades on this or any similar style of thicknesser and give you a couple of tips along the way. I'll also show how to adjust the cutter head to get it cutting nice and flat from side to side. What's your best tip for thicknessers like this, let me know.
I hope you enjoy the video and thanks for watching 👍
I've just bought and reviewed one of these myself but to see you change the blades was really helpful.
I really like the way you keep your errors in there, rather than showing seamless content, like most TH-camrs do.
Subscribed.
Hey, thanks for that, ditto.
You beat me to it, I've taped a review myself because it's such an awesome little machine.
I thought in particular it was good to keep that mistake in because it's easy (well for me anyway 😆) to get that wrong, but once I fixed it, it's perfectly flat from one side to the other. A great feature of it.
Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
Cheers.
I have the exact same planer. What I found out when adjusting the cutter head: After a lot of loosening and fasteing screws over and over again, is that the rod is spring loaded. So you can push it away from the sprocket with your fingers, and turn the cutter head on one side up or down as you need. There is no need for unscrewing the screws. (hope that makes sense, English is not my native language)
Hi J, that's great, I'll check it out next time I get it out and use it, I never noticed that before, so thanks for that. Thanks for watching, appreciate it. Cheers!
@Jotnene: Good tip, really helped 👍
Thanks. I'd have buggered up the cog direction too on the first attempt. You wont do that twice though. Unboxed mine today and very pleased with it.
Hi Jim, it's a great little machine, I'm really happy with mine, your right too, that mistake is only made once 😁. Thanks for watching, appreciate it 😀
Many thanks for this. Bought one last November from ebay but the motor packed up a few weeks ago, and have just had a replacement delivered under the warranty. Unpacked it and put a piece of wood through it (half a mil cut depth) and it tore the beginning and spat the rest of the wood back out...jeez. Tried with a few more pieces with barely any cutting depth and got the same result. So just looked at your video to align the blades. I'll let you know how I get on with it...
Hi Rod, I'm really glad it helped you and appreciate the comments, thanks for watching and good luck with your machine, I love mine, it does a great job, so I hope you get yours dialed in too. 👍😁
@@hangingoutwithhally7463 Yeh! Works a treat, now 👍👍
Sweet! 👍
thanks for sharing this. very helpful. do you by any chance know if this machine can take helical cutter heads?
Hi, good question, I don't know for sure. I've seen them for other planers this size, like the Dewalt 733, but not for this specific planer. I'm sure with some research you'd be able to find one to suit. Maybe start with www.shelixheads.com they seem to have heaps and might be able to help. I looked at them when thinking about a different thicknesser before I bought the Triton. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Hi great vids on this machine. I've just got this as my previous thickness planer packed up. On that design there was a wheel for depth of cut. On the triton I can't find a dial for depth of blade only raising the cutting head up and down the scale. I don't even know what the blade depth is. I've not run anything through it yet as I don't want to start on the wrong foot so to speak. Any advice? Seems a odd design not to have a depth gage? Phil
Hi Phil, you're right, there is no depth gauge for the depth of the actual cut. What I do, is measure the thickness of the raw timber and initially set the scale to that thickness and run the timber through, it will typically either pass through with very little timber being removed or none at all. It then takes just another pass or two to establish my starting point (no more than 1/2 a turn of the handle at a time at this point, I don't want to overload the machine accidentally 😀), then depending on the type of timber and width of cut, I use the number of turns or partial turns of the handle for the depth of cut. I really only use the scale to know I'm getting close to my final thickness. One turn of the handle is 1.5mm or 1/16th of an inch and the max depth of cut the machine can handle at all is 3mm or 1/8th (2 turns). I've never taken a single cut that deep! Because of the hardwood I've been using, I've typically taken only 1/4 of a turn at a time and the machine has done brilliantly 👌.
Hope that helps, let me know if I can help with anything else.
Thanks for watching, very much appreciated 😁👍
Hanging Out With Hally thanks for coming back to me, yeah I tried 1/4 turns yesterday on ipe. It's left a nice finish. Ipe is rock hard so impressed. Time will tell. I'll stick with quarter turns, I did this with my last Machine which was significantly bigger and worked well but unfortunately only lasted two years. £650 plus that was so why spend more if the triton can do it for a few years. Cheers
Hi Phil, that's excellent, glad to hear you're happy with it too, cheers. 👍