Where I grew up, one of our neigbours was the inventor of the Talmeter, and so I still have a signed Talmeter kicking about, 40 odd years later. He explained to me that the main point of the Talmeter was just that: to use it as a story stick. Very rarely do you actually have to know the actual measurement in millimeters. In addition to the flap, which is unbeatable for internal measurements, the metal bit where the tape goes into the unit is sharp hard metal, so it's meant to use to score the work piece. Thus eliminating the need for a pencil. Just watch out for mixing up the two scales on the tape. They differ by exactly 100 mm. I cannot count the number of times I've cut a piece exactly 100 mm too short 😂😂
Oh wow, that’s amazing! I’m fortunate to have a full set of the original (pre-hultafors) Talmeter measures and I do like them - but yes, that 100mm too short thing gets old fast! 😂👍
I have been resisting the urge to buy a track saw for some time but I realized it is time. When my wife asks I am just going to blame Peter. Every week he shows me how useful they can be.
Bought one of those talmeters on your recommendation years ago. I like it, also like the pointy scriber thing on it. Also use a trick of measuring up and marking a point, then down and add the two together instead of reading a bent tape measure which seldom works out really accurately. All the best Peter. Glad you've moved back in again
That's pretty much exactly how I make larger cuts cuts, usually when making wardrobes, where the sheets are too long for my cutting table. I replaced all my old tape measures with Talmeter tape measures, brilliant bit of kit! One thing I always do first, though, is trim the other short edge to 90 degrees first, as I have found a lot of sheet goods are not square.
Thank you. Making good cuts with a track saw is always a challenge even with the Festool one. My newest problems are curved cuts even with using the rail. Seams as if the blade is bending in hard wood even at 18mm… straight,square and on correct size cut with a track saw seams like an impossible task.
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes it just happens if you want to cut a small amount. Like trimming the last mm of a board. It is simply not doable. It starts right but drifts away of the board… I now ordered a little thicker blade…
Great tip. Looks like it could also be done using a big "speed square" or a (trusted/verified) carpenter's framing square with the stair framing trammels installed.
As I remember, Robin Clevett usually just cuts piece of wood (he names this thing "rod"), and uses it as a template to make multiple cuts repeatable. This is almost the same idea, isn't it? Anyway, brilliant, especially for the small shop.
Pretty sure I do call it a "more versatile rod or story stick" at around 1:10 in the vid, but yes, same principle - just without having to cut up scraps. 👍
I have to install 240 panels like these with a felt back in an office space now. The oak veneer still splinters a bit even if i cut the panels from the back side. Maybe i should try to score cut them like you did here.
Acoustic panels are a bit tricky because they have a condensed felt backing - these are MDF all the way through, which makes life a little easier. But yes, a scoring cut always works well for me on a delicate surface. 👍
Hello Peter. I'm a long term admirer of your channel. What are the chances, I was just thinking yesterday of making a TV wall with that style of striped background. My wife said that pattern in the background will make you sick while watching TV. Any comments maybe on that? Don't want to build something and later find out that she's right (for once).
Hi Peter, wouldn't it be just as easy to use the first panel as the guide for the next cut and place the track against it? I wonder if the tape might slip a bit as you fold it and move it several times.
Hi Michael. No, exactly the opposite! The tape is the one true measure - if you start measuring off a workpiece you’ve already cut then that’s how errors creep in. 👍👍
Whats the name of that cladding your using? I have been looking at a few types, some with acoustic properties as my house has 9 inch walls and want to insulate the wall internally and use a cladding rather than replaster?
This is from @thewoodveneerhub though there are lots of alternatives around. The ones with acoustic properties are generally on a thick felt type of background, these ones are veneered MDF.
Im still on the fence with the talmeter. The fact the hooked end is rigid makes internal cuts less accurate as you can't hang it off the end of material. I've butted the material and tape up against a stop but even so I've not had great results.
The hook is wafer thin spring steel - it hasn’t been an issue for me (I have low standards and I’m easily pleased) but if it is for you then you should probably use something else. 👍👍
Has anyone found the glue on the replacement splinter guards breaks down and goes off after a while? Any tips for replacing them that insures they last longer, mine are able to move, and obviously that's untenable.
Thanks! We bought this from @thewoodveneerhub - a bit underwhelmed as all the boards are bowed along their length, so problematic for the install. 🤷♂️👍
Hi Philip. We bought these from @thewoodveneerhub - a bit underwhelmed tbh as all the panels (we bought 8) are quite bowed, so a bit of a headache to install. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you Peter. You are so generous with your advice. Top man 👍BTW, I bought a hultafors on your recomm and the best thing I ever did (one of them). Cheers pal
Sadly, my splinter guard floats out of alignment regularly (cheap adhesive, perhaps) so I can’t trust it. I’ve come up with a different way to make accurate cuts using some precision guide blocks that’s as fast as this method.
Peter, I don't often see you cutting multiple boards at once to ensure two or more pieces are the same. Do you find that tricky to get right on an MFT?
It’s just not something I generally need to do - the MFT is very precise with the fence and flattops, so repeat cuts aren’t really a problem - unless they’re too long for the fence of course! 😂👍
Nice tape, but holy cow, it's $38 in the US. I think I'll keep measuring to a known point, marking, and then flipping the tape to the other internal edge and measuring to the mark. But that is cool.
I don’t really get it if I’m honest. Tape measure is largely irrelevant. You can measure with a number or with a fixed piece of off cut or a story stick - so whatever and make a mark. As for the square cut against a square, sure, but you could also use the rail square, or use two marks from your measure and then use the rail against both - although that is more of a faff especially for repeatability. Personally I’d use an offcut or a measurement, mark the cut and then use my rail with the rail square.
As I say in the video, I’m using the tape like an adjustable story stick or rod. You can use whatever you like - cut up bits of stick if that’s your preference, but this is how I do mine. It’s a quick and easy way to make the cuts *for the people who don’t have a rail square* and without making any marks at all. If you don’t see the benefit, then you should stick with what you do. 🤷♂️
![5 Quick Tips to keep your Tracksaw - and you - Happy [video 553]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ifFmIHMAoeI/mqdefault.jpg)
![5 Quick Tips to keep your Tracksaw - and you - Happy [video 553]](/img/tr.png)
![Tablesaw or Tracksaw for Narrow Rips [video 477]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wYy2VUhBxYI/mqdefault.jpg)
![I bought them all so that you don't have to! [video 589]](/img/n.gif)
I love these sorts of things, TH-cam is great for learning from other peoples experiences. Thanks for sharing Peter
Cheers Doug! 👍
A short video?! 5 minutes in the workshop is never enough! We need more Peter Millard content.
Thanks for the tip, that’s a good one!
😂👍👍
Thanks
Thank you! Very kind of you. 🙌👍
I’m always amazed at all you can do in your space.
I know, mad right?? 😂👍👍
Great simple way to get repeatable cuts. No need to sharpen your pencil. Thanks Peter.
Where I grew up, one of our neigbours was the inventor of the Talmeter, and so I still have a signed Talmeter kicking about, 40 odd years later.
He explained to me that the main point of the Talmeter was just that: to use it as a story stick. Very rarely do you actually have to know the actual measurement in millimeters. In addition to the flap, which is unbeatable for internal measurements, the metal bit where the tape goes into the unit is sharp hard metal, so it's meant to use to score the work piece. Thus eliminating the need for a pencil.
Just watch out for mixing up the two scales on the tape. They differ by exactly 100 mm. I cannot count the number of times I've cut a piece exactly 100 mm too short 😂😂
Oh wow, that’s amazing! I’m fortunate to have a full set of the original (pre-hultafors) Talmeter measures and I do like them - but yes, that 100mm too short thing gets old fast! 😂👍
Thanks Peter, hope you're well, take care see you on the next one
Thanks! It looks easy, and it is easy. But I have to admit I didn't think about doing it like that before. Now I will remember this. Thanks!
I have been resisting the urge to buy a track saw for some time but I realized it is time. When my wife asks I am just going to blame Peter. Every week he shows me how useful they can be.
Fair. 👍👍😂
Thanks for the constant great tips and advice u give us.
Bought one of those talmeters on your recommendation years ago. I like it, also like the pointy scriber thing on it.
Also use a trick of measuring up and marking a point, then down and add the two together instead of reading a bent tape measure which seldom works out really accurately.
All the best Peter. Glad you've moved back in again
Cheers Michael! Give a knock when you’re over this way, I’ll give you the tour! 👍
Thanks!
Thank you! 🙌 👍
Great tip with this Talmeter. Many thanks. Just ordered.
Looks good, … I started writing a comment about rip cuts and you addressed my concerns perfectly. 😅
Thanks! And glad to hear it! 😆👍👍
Nice work! Been watching for some time and subscribed today! Your insights are always welcome, thank you!
Thanks and welcome! 👍
I was wondering what that tape measure was Peter, and as always thank you for a simple solution for us guys in small shop 👊💚💯
Thanks! 👍
That's pretty much exactly how I make larger cuts cuts, usually when making wardrobes, where the sheets are too long for my cutting table.
I replaced all my old tape measures with Talmeter tape measures, brilliant bit of kit!
One thing I always do first, though, is trim the other short edge to 90 degrees first, as I have found a lot of sheet goods are not square.
Simple, clever, and extremely helpful. Thanks Peter!
This is genius, thank you Peter!!
Thanks! 👍
A great Tip, Thanks Peter
Hey Peter. Love your work 👍
Hey, thanks! 👍👍
I thought I had all the tape measures I need, obviously not 😂 picked up one of these tapes from your link, too useful not to buy ! 👍🏻
Great tip if your splinter gards are straight mine aren't lol. As I personally run 2 different saws down my rails.
Thanks a bunch for sharing, Peter! 😃
I've never seen a tape measure like that! I'm going to look for one here!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! There’s a link in the description to the Talmeter tape measure - should take you to your local Amazon if they have them available. 👍👍
Thank you. Making good cuts with a track saw is always a challenge even with the Festool one. My newest problems are curved cuts even with using the rail. Seams as if the blade is bending in hard wood even at 18mm… straight,square and on correct size cut with a track saw seams like an impossible task.
Wow, never come across that before! Hope you can get it sorted - they’re great saws! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes it just happens if you want to cut a small amount. Like trimming the last mm of a board. It is simply not doable. It starts right but drifts away of the board… I now ordered a little thicker blade…
Great video mate
Cheers Dan!
Great tip. Looks like it could also be done using a big "speed square" or a (trusted/verified) carpenter's framing square with the stair framing trammels installed.
Yes, absolutely - as long as you know it’s square. 👍👍
Thank you very much, you are my Hero!
Thank you! 😆👍
As I remember, Robin Clevett usually just cuts piece of wood (he names this thing "rod"), and uses it as a template to make multiple cuts repeatable. This is almost the same idea, isn't it?
Anyway, brilliant, especially for the small shop.
Pretty sure I do call it a "more versatile rod or story stick" at around 1:10 in the vid, but yes, same principle - just without having to cut up scraps. 👍
Great technique! Your ways of doing things always had heavy influence in my shop.
Thanks! 👍
Great idea, I’ll be adding that technique to my bag of tricks, cheers Peter
Another day,another problem solved.👍🌴🇨🇦
I have to install 240 panels like these with a felt back in an office space now. The oak veneer still splinters a bit even if i cut the panels from the back side.
Maybe i should try to score cut them like you did here.
Acoustic panels are a bit tricky because they have a condensed felt backing - these are MDF all the way through, which makes life a little easier. But yes, a scoring cut always works well for me on a delicate surface. 👍
Hi Peter, appreciate the video, can you please drop a link to where you got the panels. Thanks
These are from @thewoodveneerhub. A bit underwhelmed tbh as they’ve all bowed, making the install a bit of a pain. 🤷♂️ Nice quality panels though. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you
Hello Peter. I'm a long term admirer of your channel. What are the chances, I was just thinking yesterday of making a TV wall with that style of striped background. My wife said that pattern in the background will make you sick while watching TV. Any comments maybe on that? Don't want to build something and later find out that she's right (for once).
Don’t know yet tbh - we’ll have a tv on the wall that this is going on, so I’ll keep you,posted! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop That would be absolutely great, Peter!
cool tape measure
I think woodworking/trades need a new category - panel master! You're first member of the guild mate😂👌
😂😂 Cheers Stu! 🙌👍
Excellent!
Many thanks! 👍
Awesome 👍
Hi Peter, wouldn't it be just as easy to use the first panel as the guide for the next cut and place the track against it? I wonder if the tape might slip a bit as you fold it and move it several times.
Hi Michael. No, exactly the opposite! The tape is the one true measure - if you start measuring off a workpiece you’ve already cut then that’s how errors creep in. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I am not sure I understand that but accept you greater experience. Mike
Did you do that scoring cut just by feel and eye? I didn’t see you adjust the depth stop.
Yes, just by ‘feel’ - not the first I’ve done this way, to be fair. 👍👍
Thank you for sharing this technique. I have a question regarding your bench. What are the dado or grooves used for on your benchtop?
Thanks! The grooves are for clamping - see Microjig Matchfit dovetail clamps video - th-cam.com/video/uiT6F-K26Tg/w-d-xo.html 👍
Whats the name of that cladding your using? I have been looking at a few types, some with acoustic properties as my house has 9 inch walls and want to insulate the wall internally and use a cladding rather than replaster?
This is from @thewoodveneerhub though there are lots of alternatives around. The ones with acoustic properties are generally on a thick felt type of background, these ones are veneered MDF.
Thanks@@10MinuteWorkshop
Im still on the fence with the talmeter. The fact the hooked end is rigid makes internal cuts less accurate as you can't hang it off the end of material. I've butted the material and tape up against a stop but even so I've not had great results.
The hook is wafer thin spring steel - it hasn’t been an issue for me (I have low standards and I’m easily pleased) but if it is for you then you should probably use something else. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I reckon I've bent my hook (snigger) at some point. 😁.
Has anyone found the glue on the replacement splinter guards breaks down and goes off after a while? Any tips for replacing them that insures they last longer, mine are able to move, and obviously that's untenable.
Haven’t found a huge problem with the Festool splinterguards, but 3M double-sided tape has worked very well for me in the past. 👍
Hi Peter really smart boarding what is it and where did you get it. cheers
Thanks! We bought this from @thewoodveneerhub - a bit underwhelmed as all the boards are bowed along their length, so problematic for the install. 🤷♂️👍
Hi Peter, may I ask the manufacturer of the veneered panels? Cheers
Hi Philip. We bought these from @thewoodveneerhub - a bit underwhelmed tbh as all the panels (we bought 8) are quite bowed, so a bit of a headache to install. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you Peter. You are so generous with your advice. Top man 👍BTW, I bought a hultafors on your recomm and the best thing I ever did (one of them). Cheers pal
How do you run the first shallow cut? I don’t remember Festool having a special stop for that on the saw.
Just by ‘feel’ - not my first scoring cut, just sayin’ 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop 😉 will give it a try too, definitely a time saver
Xclnt Peter! 👏😀👍🍺
Hey Peter, at 2:00 you use a triangle as a square. That tickled me.
I know, right! 😂👍
Mrs H wants to know if your move went OK! I think she looks forward to hearing your dulcet tones when I watch your videos!
😂😂 Move went OK thank you! So happy to be home! 👍
Sadly, my splinter guard floats out of alignment regularly (cheap adhesive, perhaps) so I can’t trust it. I’ve come up with a different way to make accurate cuts using some precision guide blocks that’s as fast as this method.
Peter, I don't often see you cutting multiple boards at once to ensure two or more pieces are the same. Do you find that tricky to get right on an MFT?
It’s just not something I generally need to do - the MFT is very precise with the fence and flattops, so repeat cuts aren’t really a problem - unless they’re too long for the fence of course! 😂👍
Peter, Where you getting your strip panels from please…??
These were from @thewoodveneerhub. Bit ubderwhelmed tbh, they’re all bowed over their length which gave me a few headaches on the install. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter, Thanks for taking the time reply, that’s actually the company I’ve been looking at too. 👍👍
Nice tape, but holy cow, it's $38 in the US. I think I'll keep measuring to a known point, marking, and then flipping the tape to the other internal edge and measuring to the mark.
But that is cool.
I don’t really get it if I’m honest. Tape measure is largely irrelevant. You can measure with a number or with a fixed piece of off cut or a story stick - so whatever and make a mark. As for the square cut against a square, sure, but you could also use the rail square, or use two marks from your measure and then use the rail against both - although that is more of a faff especially for repeatability.
Personally I’d use an offcut or a measurement, mark the cut and then use my rail with the rail square.
As I say in the video, I’m using the tape like an adjustable story stick or rod. You can use whatever you like - cut up bits of stick if that’s your preference, but this is how I do mine. It’s a quick and easy way to make the cuts *for the people who don’t have a rail square* and without making any marks at all. If you don’t see the benefit, then you should stick with what you do. 🤷♂️
I would have turned the panels over to prevent any possible tear out on the veneer.