I recently acquired a Parkside PPSK 40 b2 plasma cutter from Lidi, not bad considering I only went in to buy dinner, but like usual with Lidl I couldn't resist the impulse to purchase one at only £149.99. The only downside is having to purchase PPE separately, unlike the Parkside stick and core welders that come supplied with a basic mask, hammer and gloves. I can't fault the 40 watt plasma cutter's performance, it's accurate, fast and highly adjustable, And comes supplied with a nozzle guide-wheel attachment and two spare electrode tips and sleeves. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, especially about cutting speeds versus power. I tried mine at 100% and used practice to determine the speed. My only concern is exceeding the duty cycle too often operating at full power. Can't expect a miracle plasma cutter for that price, but for that price, it easily slices clean through 1/4 inch of solid bar stock like butter. 👍
God bless you, sir, for your editing. Your videos are to quick and to the point without a lot of ums and ahs that just make it drag on. Whomever is doing your editing deserves a raise
Recently bought a cutter home with me and went in search of some know how. Though I have used one previously it was not a happy experience. I watched a few videos and read some instructions all helped not much, and then I got lucky finding this video. Some semi secret info you might figure out after a large pack of consumables? For me that is the information someone can easily tell you. Well for everybody that watches this here is some very useful information that will start you off in good steed with your new Plasma. A valuable instructional guide in video format. Thank you TimWelds !
I’m a burning specialist at a shipyard,I have a hyper therm 105 and a 125. I use the 125 90° of the time. If you set your amp right and cut at the right speed it will look like a mirror without any slag. If you have a lot of slag you’re cutting to slow or to hot, but mostly to slow. I use a piece of 2” angle as a guide for straight cuts
Some other tips: -DRAG tips usually have channels or slit cuts. -IF you have a pilot hole you won't wreck consumables and tips due to blowback. -DRY air is extremely important. Wet air ruins tips very fast. -MAKE sure all fittings are tight else torch can get damaged or tips get worn prematurely. -IF it is not a drag tip you'll have a guide which keeps specific distance from the tip and the cutting part,don't loose that and keep spares of it. -Electrode and cutting tip quality matters. -The more the tip is used the bigger the hole will get hence depending on machine may need more power. - Make sure cut surface is as clean as possible as you don't want to inhale evaporated solvents which can instantly knock you out. -Do make a plasma cut table with slit cuts to hold the work and prevent blowing sparks back. Preferably fill it with sand if possible. -DO NOT cut when there a completely flush item behind what you are cutting,it will cause blow back and you will ruin tip and will have shower with molten Slag/metal -DO NOT cut over the concrete. It will mark it and if you have epoxy coating you will burn it.if concrete is wet it may cause Spalding and can cause damage easily. Try soil or sand underneath. -DRY COMPRESSOR AIR IS A must and many machines need 90psi minimum. -Buy tones of scrap steel so you can practice a lot rather than fresh steel.
I really liked the tip about direction of sparks for cutting speed. I hardly ever use my cutter, but I'm going to try out the technique. See 4:43 for "How to Get Clean, Straight Cuts"
I am doing a lot of freehand artsie type cutting. I found that using a roller guide wheel attachment allowed me to get far better and smoother cuts when I'm following a curved line mark. I have a Hypertherm XP30 and other than the circle guide, they do not seem to make a rollerguide for their machines. I bought a cheapo from Amazon and had to modify it to work with the XP30
Hi Tim, I have watched a number of your videos over the past 6 months or so. I am a hobbyist and fabricate and repair things here on our farm. My most ambitious projects are fabricating gates and a metal cage draped with sunscreen to sit under and enjoy looking out over the farm. Before started my projects I watched your videos on MIG welding, stick welding is not for me at all. Using your tips and recommendation you can see how I have improved as these projects moved along. Thank Tim, have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
I've been learning stick welding for about 2 weeks now a little every day and it's becoming much more fun for me as I get better. At first it was just chaos and getting an arc going was like rolling dice haha.
Really helpful, I wasn't aware that guides could be used to straighten your hands. I've always had trouble with keeping my hands nice and steady, and I've had pretty poor cuts. This is a big help for sure.
The manual also gave angle of sparks as indicators of fast, good, slow speeds. I also noticed that I can't see this angle of sparks as it is below the metal I am cutting.
Thought it was a great exhibit of the simple things that matter very much. I may have missed it but I don't recall hearing anything about air dryers which I believe and have been taught are a crucial add-on to any plasma cutter to increase the lifespan of the unit
One side really just gets a little more of a bevel. It's more apparent during machine cutting on thicker stuff, but I find it really interesting. Thanks!
Hi I'm watching your video you have a simple explanation and matter only in my opinion missing I had everything we get in the fortification of moisture and how to identify the effect on the cut
Same here. I'm about to build a shed and thought about how to cut 150 c sections quietly. Drop saws and grinders are way to noisy. And cutting access holes etc looks way easier. Great video and thanks.
Your videos is very informative and i like coming back every now and then just to recap to make the most of all the info. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and showing it in practical applications.
This video is great. I totally need to get one of these. I can't believe how cheap they have become. My only thing is, it was confusing that Tim said the machines cut better on the "right" side, while from the vantage point of the user it's simply the left side ofbthe cut, when dragging towards you. Eh, good to know though.
Thank you very much. Your information will be very helpful, at least to me; I have tried cutting with my plasma cutter, very unsuccessfully, but I can see after paying attention to your video that I have been making a number of mistakes in my process.
@7:30 that is how i ruined my torch lead when my molten steel and dross dripped onto the lead under the workpiece. Yeah i was trying to cut half inch which was beyond the capacity of my Warfox cut50dp , had to order a replacement lead which was pretty cheap.
That's a great video idea! I have a torch, but I honestly never use it. It would be interesting to do a comparison. It's amazing how clean of a cut a torch can make with a good tip and a skilled hand.
Nice video , you didn’t mention about using dry air . I just run mine through copper tube so the damp air condenses and I can drain it off . Saves your plasma cutter becoming a water pistol … 🙂
That's a great tip! I don't have much trouble with moisture, probably because I live in a really dry climate, but I have thought about installing some sort of simply dryer. I'll have to look into the copper tube route. Thanks for the add!
My rig is 20+ going strong . Nothing but a simple 3/4” water line copper with regular 50/50 solder. Compressor is in basement so it’s LOW and the line runs High up the wall. Mid way there’s a simple U shaped water trap with a drain and another near the end. On both there’s just a simple elcheapo garden hose bib to drain them. I get very little water as it condenses along the way. Most doesn’t even leave into the traps . A simple HF Autodrain in the tank in place of the manual drain completes the setup. Works fantastic. Try not to use PVCOr PEX as they are simple to install but won’t condense the moisture which is the real “ air dryer”
Tim you are the man! Just set the amps at max and adjust drag speed...that's mindblowing to me, certainly simplifies things! See, I knew you'd have good tips on this, thats why I voted both stick and plasma cutting on ur survey lol. I notice you don't have an offset. Is that a drag tip on the torch then? I have an el cheapo cut50 type machine with pilot arc. I tried just dragging w/o offset...plugged up that nozzle tip like almost immediately. Thx for all you do, Tim!
Hi Tim How would you start a cut in the middle of sheet steel . Would you pre drill a start hole or just go for it with the torch and how would it effect the consumables ?
Great question. You can drill a hole, but I just pierce through with the torch. To pierce through, hold the torch at about a 45 degree angle to the material, pull the trigger, then pivot to 90 degrees. The torch will cut through as you pivot and you’re moving.
Hi Tim..so just watched your video on plasma cutting tips...I am currently looking at purchasing a smaller unit for home hobby use etc. I have two dilemmas that are determining what I can or can not purchase...one being my air compressor which puts out 5 cfm @90 psi..the other factor is I am using a portable inverter generator that has a 10,000watt startup and 8,000 watt running watts...so to look at the specs on the machines that run within those specs is pretty limiting.. So I am curious if I have to make a purchase what of the two factors should be the priority..I know the more power means more depth of cut so while I would like to get the most bang for my buck...which one thing should I prioritize
Does the metal i am cutting have to be clean as if i was welding,,i have anew plasma cutter but it isnt cutting very well,,lot of spitting ,,i have a large compressor and proper setup,plasma cutter can be set at 120 or 220,,im using 120,,will using 220 circuit help with cuts,,i want to use plasma to cut metal to mke tractor implements
Tim great videos... Thanks for your willingness to teach One question is Air psi? You kinda started to talk about it. And didn't get to deep Please help me know what kind of PSI I should be using.
Another great video Tim . . . you and Mike Festiva must be friends . . . he just posted a good video on a plasma cutter as well. I learned a lot from both videos . . . keep up the great work Tim . . . Merry Christmas to you and your family Sir.
Haha! I hadn't seen that yet, though I usually watch his videos. Mike's a great guy and I really like his videos. Thanks and Merry Christmas to you as well!
This is not a criticism but a genuine question because I have absolutely no experience with this and have no idea... I noticed that you allow your torch cable to dangle right below where you're cutting and that the sparks are really blasting that cable. Is that a good idea?
Mine isn't a Langmuir, though I have their welding fixture table. I built my first CNC table from scratch about 8 years ago, which I just sold to get my current, larger table. It's a Premier Plasma brand table. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to a beginner, but I like it because I understand all the workings and can modify it to do certain things like cut tubing.
Does anyone know where I can buy shade 10 or higher plasma cutting safety glasses? I work on an industrial plasma cutter that typically runs between 260-400 amp and the only thing i can find is shade 5
Excellent tutorial! I'm a little confused, though -- when I look at the very end you talk about the *right* side being better, to me it looks like it's the *left* side of the handle that has the smiley face.
It’s not a particular side of the handle, it’s relative to the direction of motion. It isn’t a huge deal for most hand cutting, it’s just that the left side leaves a little more of a bevel. Hypertherm has some articles about it if you Google around.
If a plasma cutter and cold saw were woodworking tools, the former would be a table saw, the latter a miter saw. If you need to make a 24-inch cut in sheet steel, that’s pretty hard to do with a cold saw. Likewise, repeat cuts in 2-inch angle iron would be a breeze with a cold saw. I can’t imagine a shop in both disciplines, woodworking and metalworking, without all four tools. I’m no professional, but I own multiple examples of all the tools mentioned here, except for the cold saw, my lone one being a Makita. But I like the look of the Evolution, and no doubt will add one. After all, the first rule of tool ownership is well known: buy more.
Some hand pieces have a stand off ? Others you can drag , others you hold off ,all depends on the hand piece you are useing , sorry cant help much more , regards from australia
Hi Tim! I just discovered your channel. Thanks for your very good explanations and good quality movie. I started to plasma cut one week ago with very poor success. The cut is ok the first 10 cm, then it doesn't go thru the metal sheet of 6mm. So I have to wait till the compressor has uploaded again. The under site shows a very thick board which is hard to get away. Terrible uneven cut. My plasma cutter is described to work up to 160 Amps. But when I turn it up to the max, the display shows only 50 Amps. Sow what do I have to change to get better results? Stronger compressor? What size of compressor? Or better plasma cutter? Where to start?
Tim no doubt is too busy to answer every question, but maybe I can help. I own two plasma cutters and several compressors, and I can tell you right off that if your compressor is working to keep up during cutting it is almost certainly too small. The rule of thumb with compressors is to buy the biggest one you can afford - and then find a way to buy a bigger one. No one ever says “I wish I had bought a smaller compressor.” I bought a huge 5-horse two-stage compressor for my shop years ago and have not once regretted it. You don’t mention the brands of your equipment, but I would review the manufacturer’s claims about the thickness of material your plasma cutter is supposedly capable of handling. Is the machine an off brand? Check your consumables carefully, as they might be partially plugged. It could be that your machine is defective. I have purchased hundreds of imported tools with generally good results, but have found that with the most complicated devices - precision saws, welding equipment and so on - there is no substitute for premium brands such as Miller, Lincoln, Esab and Hypertherm. In fact, I have to admit that the cuts Tim regards as less than perfect look like some of what I consider my best work.
Tim - you should talk about drag tip versus standoff. I really wish I would’ve bought a drag tip machine versus having to run a standoff . You should also talk about looking at consumable replacement cost. I have a Hobart air500I and the replacement consumable costs are 3 to 4 times more because Hobart uses their own style as opposed to a more Standard torch that a lot of companies make the consumables for. I pay $10-ish for consumables with this machine as opposed to $1 or $2 for consumables that match a widely used torch. I also found that when I switched out to a large air compressor (80 Gallon)for my garage it produces way more moisture and made me go through consumables 3 to 4 times more often than with my small compressor. I found the easy workaround was to hook four or five small passive silica bead filters together in line with the air hose. I even tried buying a powered air dryer machine and that did not work when combined with a large compressor to filter out all the water before it went to plasma cutter.
Thanks for the tips. Drag tips are nice, for sure. My Hypertherm consumables are $10-$15 for a nozzle and electrode depending on the machine, but they work great and last a long time, so I don't mind spending more for a quality product. I'm surprised that a dryer didn't work for you, I wonder if there's oil getting through your pump.
Given how easy plasma cutters are to use and they don't use much consumables, why are oxy acetylene preferred sometimes? I mean it basically makes acetylene obsolete. Even in construction it's rare to cut anything thicker than 3/4" unless you are building large skyscrapers... And you can't really use a straight edge with an acetylene torch.
Great video Tim 👍. I have a question for you. Q: I'm living in the UK and looking to buy my 1st 3 in 1 mig, tig, stick welding machine. Can you recommend a good machine for my budget of between $200 - $350. Thanks.
Do you mean $2000-$3500 ?!? I have yet to see a good welding machine for $200 …. Not even mentioning a 3in 1 multi process …. That is just not the price range ….
Thanks so much! I'm not familiar with the machines sold in the UK, but in general, that budget is probably a bit tight. As far as selecting machines, here are a few things to consider. The 3 in 1 multiprocess machines sound like a great option, but most people can meet their goals with one process. Focussing on one process not only can reduce the machine cost, it reduces other costs that many people do not consider, especially gas cylinders (MIG and TIG will take different gasses, so you would need 2). Other costs for setting up each process are filler metal, electrodes, contact tips, gloves, etc. That being said, assuming costs are similar to the US, your budget is probably too tight to get a good set up for any of the processes. The lowest cost process to set up for is stick welding, which is great if you don't mind a learning curve and you're working with steel material 3mm (1/8") and thicker. You could probably get set up for stick welding with your budget, but probably not with a very good machine unless you were lucky to find one second hand. What I would recommend is picking one process to start with (for most people I talk to, it's MIG, but it really depends on what you're doing). Then, price out the equipment, safety gear, consumables and gas and set that as a target to save a bit more for it. Hope this helps.
@@TimWelds Thanks for that lengthy reply Tim. I've already purchased most of the safety kit and consumables and now just saving up for the machine, but I will definitely take on board what you said. Once again, thank you for your time, and I look forward to your next video 👍👍👍
@@TimWelds Generally in Europe things will be a little bit more expensive than in the US. We have mandatory minimum warranties and a little bit higher VAT which add to prices.
Great video . I actually have been looking to buy a plasma cutter but i was afraid it would be way more noisy than grinder as you need a big air compressor glad to know i can work with a small one!! Do you knowHow much scfm do you need in order to cut with a plasma cutter?
You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
I recently acquired a Parkside PPSK 40 b2 plasma cutter from Lidi, not bad considering I only went in to buy dinner, but like usual with Lidl I couldn't resist the impulse to purchase one at only £149.99. The only downside is having to purchase PPE separately, unlike the Parkside stick and core welders that come supplied with a basic mask, hammer and gloves. I can't fault the 40 watt plasma cutter's performance, it's accurate, fast and highly adjustable, And comes supplied with a nozzle guide-wheel attachment and two spare electrode tips and sleeves. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, especially about cutting speeds versus power. I tried mine at 100% and used practice to determine the speed. My only concern is exceeding the duty cycle too often operating at full power. Can't expect a miracle plasma cutter for that price, but for that price, it easily slices clean through 1/4 inch of solid bar stock like butter. 👍
Great video. Short & sweet with no unnecessary chatter. I love it when someone just gets to the point!
God bless you, sir, for your editing. Your videos are to quick and to the point without a lot of ums and ahs that just make it drag on. Whomever is doing your editing deserves a raise
Recently bought a cutter home with me and went in search of some know how. Though I have used one previously it was not a happy experience. I watched a few videos and read some instructions all helped not much, and then I got lucky finding this video. Some semi secret info you might figure out after a large pack of consumables? For me that is the information someone can easily tell you. Well for everybody that watches this here is some very useful information that will start you off in good steed with your new Plasma. A valuable instructional guide in video format. Thank you TimWelds !
I’m a burning specialist at a shipyard,I have a hyper therm 105 and a 125. I use the 125 90° of the time. If you set your amp right and cut at the right speed it will look like a mirror without any slag. If you have a lot of slag you’re cutting to slow or to hot, but mostly to slow. I use a piece of 2” angle as a guide for straight cuts
Some other tips:
-DRAG tips usually have channels or slit cuts.
-IF you have a pilot hole you won't wreck consumables and tips due to blowback.
-DRY air is extremely important. Wet air ruins tips very fast.
-MAKE sure all fittings are tight else torch can get damaged or tips get worn prematurely.
-IF it is not a drag tip you'll have a guide which keeps specific distance from the tip and the cutting part,don't loose that and keep spares of it.
-Electrode and cutting tip quality matters.
-The more the tip is used the bigger the hole will get hence depending on machine may need more power.
- Make sure cut surface is as clean as possible as you don't want to inhale evaporated solvents which can instantly knock you out.
-Do make a plasma cut table with slit cuts to hold the work and prevent blowing sparks back. Preferably fill it with sand if possible.
-DO NOT cut when there a completely flush item behind what you are cutting,it will cause blow back and you will ruin tip and will have shower with molten Slag/metal
-DO NOT cut over the concrete. It will mark it and if you have epoxy coating you will burn it.if concrete is wet it may cause Spalding and can cause damage easily. Try soil or sand underneath.
-DRY COMPRESSOR AIR IS A must and many machines need 90psi minimum.
-Buy tones of scrap steel so you can practice a lot rather than fresh steel.
Why do people like you exist?
thanks for the additional advice!
I had no idea there was a clean cut side to the plasma torch, I'm running a Hypertherm 30xp as well so I'll keep an eye out for it, great video!
I really liked the tip about direction of sparks for cutting speed. I hardly ever use my cutter, but I'm going to try out the technique.
See 4:43 for "How to Get Clean, Straight Cuts"
I am doing a lot of freehand artsie type cutting. I found that using a roller guide wheel attachment allowed me to get far better and smoother cuts when I'm following a curved line mark. I have a Hypertherm XP30 and other than the circle guide, they do not seem to make a rollerguide for their machines. I bought a cheapo from Amazon and had to modify it to work with the XP30
Your simple delivery of information is grand ! Thanks you !
Hi Tim, I have watched a number of your videos over the past 6 months or so. I am a hobbyist and fabricate and repair things here on our farm. My most ambitious projects are fabricating gates and a metal cage draped with sunscreen to sit under and enjoy looking out over the farm. Before started my projects I watched your videos on MIG welding, stick welding is not for me at all. Using your tips and recommendation you can see how I have improved as these projects moved along. Thank Tim, have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
I've been learning stick welding for about 2 weeks now a little every day and it's becoming much more fun for me as I get better. At first it was just chaos and getting an arc going was like rolling dice haha.
Really helpful, I wasn't aware that guides could be used to straighten your hands. I've always had trouble with keeping my hands nice and steady, and I've had pretty poor cuts. This is a big help for sure.
Crank it up and just adjust the speed - best advice ever
I'm just off to buy a Plasma cutter and I thought I better check in and get all 'knowledged up'.. Thanks mate. 😁🍻
The manual also gave angle of sparks as indicators of fast, good, slow speeds.
I also noticed that I can't see this angle of sparks as it is below the metal I am cutting.
Excelent presentation. Thank you for your time and good will .
very good, it was great you had notes so you didn't miss anything. Again good job, I learned a lot. Thank you.
Thought it was a great exhibit of the simple things that matter very much. I may have missed it but I don't recall hearing anything about air dryers which I believe and have been taught are a crucial add-on to any plasma cutter to increase the lifespan of the unit
Perfect video. Straight to the point. Thank you!
I didn't know about one side having a better cut. I'll have to test. Thanks!
One side really just gets a little more of a bevel. It's more apparent during machine cutting on thicker stuff, but I find it really interesting. Thanks!
Perfect timing, starting to shop for my first! Thank you! Great video!
Your videos are gold, thank you.
I don't have much call to plasma cut things, but I do plasma cut the biggest, thickest sawmill blades I can get, to make hunting knives.
The air swirles, that's interesting. Thank you, I think this makes sense for a smoother exit from the tip.
Fantastic video and great information and tips. I’ve not long had a plasma cutter so this has been a great help 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Hi I'm watching your video you have a simple explanation and matter only in my opinion missing I had everything we get in the fortification of moisture and how to identify the effect on the cut
Got a plasma cutter a while ago. Learned most of the tips and tricks in the video the frustrating and expensive way lol
Tim ty great knowledge and guilds while cutting really help
Love your videos Tim, I’m getting my own plasma cutter for sure now. Thank you.
Same here. I'm about to build a shed and thought about how to cut 150 c sections quietly. Drop saws and grinders are way to noisy. And cutting access holes etc looks way easier. Great video and thanks.
Your videos is very informative and i like coming back every now and then just to recap to make the most of all the info. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and showing it in practical applications.
I need one of those plasma cutters. Thanks for the video.
They're pretty handy! No problem 👍
7:40 I have that same ruler. It's from a combination square
This video is great. I totally need to get one of these. I can't believe how cheap they have become. My only thing is, it was confusing that Tim said the machines cut better on the "right" side, while from the vantage point of the user it's simply the left side ofbthe cut, when dragging towards you. Eh, good to know though.
This would be a great course to add to your welding bundle.
Thank you very much. Your information will be very helpful, at least to me; I have tried cutting with my plasma cutter, very unsuccessfully, but I can see after paying attention to your video that I have been making a number of mistakes in my process.
Great clear video. Thanks. Rex here in New Zealand.
@7:30 that is how i ruined my torch lead when my molten steel and dross dripped onto the lead under the workpiece. Yeah i was trying to cut half inch which was beyond the capacity of my Warfox cut50dp , had to order a replacement lead which was pretty cheap.
Can you please do a comparison video between a plasma cutter and a cutting touch (gas touch)
That's a great video idea! I have a torch, but I honestly never use it. It would be interesting to do a comparison. It's amazing how clean of a cut a torch can make with a good tip and a skilled hand.
Another good one, thanks learned a lot from you.
Very informative video.. 👍👍
I got the hypertherm 30 XP I absolutely love it Bob for Elkhart Indiana
Great video and I respect your sense of responding to comments. Pls tell what's the right air pressure for cut 40 via compressor
Nice video , you didn’t mention about using dry air . I just run mine through copper tube so the damp air condenses and I can drain it off . Saves your plasma cutter becoming a water pistol …
🙂
That's a great tip! I don't have much trouble with moisture, probably because I live in a really dry climate, but I have thought about installing some sort of simply dryer. I'll have to look into the copper tube route. Thanks for the add!
My rig is 20+ going strong . Nothing but a simple 3/4” water line copper with regular 50/50 solder. Compressor is in basement so it’s LOW and the line runs High up the wall. Mid way there’s a simple U shaped water trap with a drain and another near the end. On both there’s just a simple elcheapo garden hose bib to drain them.
I get very little water as it condenses along the way. Most doesn’t even leave into the traps . A simple HF Autodrain in the tank in place of the manual drain completes the setup. Works fantastic. Try not to use PVCOr PEX as they are simple to install but won’t condense the moisture which is the real “ air dryer”
Thanks for making this video Tim! Bout time for me to finally buy a plasma.
Thank you for the good video!
Tim you are the man! Just set the amps at max and adjust drag speed...that's mindblowing to me, certainly simplifies things! See, I knew you'd have good tips on this, thats why I voted both stick and plasma cutting on ur survey lol. I notice you don't have an offset. Is that a drag tip on the torch then? I have an el cheapo cut50 type machine with pilot arc. I tried just dragging w/o offset...plugged up that nozzle tip like almost immediately. Thx for all you do, Tim!
your videos are not good but AMAZING !!!! thank you so much
It’s amazing how thick of a plate you can cut clean with one of those
Totally. Some more powerful machines can cut well over 1" (25mm) thick material and leave a really nice edge.
Thank you - that was helpful.
Thanks again Tim !!
Could the plasma cutter be used to make the bevel for welding later, on a three-quarter-inch sheet?
Hi Tim
How would you start a cut in the middle of sheet steel .
Would you pre drill a start hole or just go for it with the torch and how would it effect the consumables ?
Great question. You can drill a hole, but I just pierce through with the torch. To pierce through, hold the torch at about a 45 degree angle to the material, pull the trigger, then pivot to 90 degrees. The torch will cut through as you pivot and you’re moving.
I NEED DIRECTIONS ON HOW TO PUT TOGETHER AN ANDELI PLASMA CUTTER 50-DS,HELP
Hi Tim. I just discovered your channel, Thanks You Very Mach. Regards from SPain..
Perfect teacher teaching perfectly. Thank you.
Hi Tim..so just watched your video on plasma cutting tips...I am currently looking at purchasing a smaller unit for home hobby use etc.
I have two dilemmas that are determining what I can or can not purchase...one being my air compressor which puts out 5 cfm @90 psi..the other factor is I am using a portable inverter generator that has a 10,000watt startup and 8,000 watt running watts...so to look at the specs on the machines that run within those specs is pretty limiting..
So I am curious if I have to make a purchase what of the two factors should be the priority..I know the more power means more depth of cut so while I would like to get the most bang for my buck...which one thing should I prioritize
🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍👍👍 I've got the hypotherm 30xp and I absolutely love it would not get rid of it for nothing Bob Elkhart Indiana
Awesome video, thank you.
Good information, what kind of compressor are you using on the 45XP. How do you like it so far?
Does the metal i am cutting have to be clean as if i was welding,,i have anew plasma cutter but it isnt cutting very well,,lot of spitting ,,i have a large compressor and proper setup,plasma cutter can be set at 120 or 220,,im using 120,,will using 220 circuit help with cuts,,i want to use plasma to cut metal to mke tractor implements
HOW DO I GET DIRECTIONS TO HOW TO PUT TOGETHER AN ANDELI 50DS PLASMA CUTTER?
Are you touching the torch tip to the material?
Yes, but whether you can do that or not depends on the type of machine and consumables you’re using.
What settings are best on a plasma cutter as far as air and amp setting,,my new plasma works but its sloppy and pops
Another good one, thanks, Tim!
Thanks!
thanks for sharing great video
Tim great videos... Thanks for your willingness to teach
One question is Air psi? You kinda started to talk about it. And didn't get to deep
Please help me know what kind of PSI I should be using.
It usually says right on the cutter, but usually a supply of 90 PSI works well with the cutters that I have.
Thanks for sharing. I just subscribed.
Another great video Tim . . . you and Mike Festiva must be friends . . . he just posted a good video on a plasma cutter as well. I learned a lot from both videos . . . keep up the great work Tim . . . Merry Christmas to you and your family Sir.
Haha! I hadn't seen that yet, though I usually watch his videos. Mike's a great guy and I really like his videos. Thanks and Merry Christmas to you as well!
Tom what is the model?
Those are high dollar machines! Is there a marked advantage with the Hypertherm over other cutters?
This is not a criticism but a genuine question because I have absolutely no experience with this and have no idea...
I noticed that you allow your torch cable to dangle right below where you're cutting and that the sparks are really blasting that cable. Is that a good idea?
I don't mind the question at all. It's not a good idea to have the torch lead under your cut...oops. 😬
You have not mentioned your cnc table, langmuir?
I was wondering the same thing! Will you be making some videos on the cnc plasma? Thanks for the great information!
Mine isn't a Langmuir, though I have their welding fixture table. I built my first CNC table from scratch about 8 years ago, which I just sold to get my current, larger table. It's a Premier Plasma brand table. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to a beginner, but I like it because I understand all the workings and can modify it to do certain things like cut tubing.
Thank so much!
Does anyone know where I can buy shade 10 or higher plasma cutting safety glasses? I work on an industrial plasma cutter that typically runs between 260-400 amp and the only thing i can find is shade 5
Google KMZ-SHD10
I have no experience with them though.
Excellent tutorial! I'm a little confused, though -- when I look at the very end you talk about the *right* side being better, to me it looks like it's the *left* side of the handle that has the smiley face.
It’s not a particular side of the handle, it’s relative to the direction of motion. It isn’t a huge deal for most hand cutting, it’s just that the left side leaves a little more of a bevel. Hypertherm has some articles about it if you Google around.
right.... the video reference as filmed should have been referred to as, top & bottom
Can you teach us how to do a bezel cut
Ive noticed that there is a huge impact with the air pressure. What amp vs air pressure should be lets say 30 amps and lets say 8mm dark metal.
Thanks
Thank you.
Good stuff TY👍
Tim,
Other than maneuverability and blade life, what are the advantages of plasma cutting straight cuts vs a great metal cutting (cold) saw?
If a plasma cutter and cold saw were woodworking tools, the former would be a table saw, the latter a miter saw. If you need to make a 24-inch cut in sheet steel, that’s pretty hard to do with a cold saw. Likewise, repeat cuts in 2-inch angle iron would be a breeze with a cold saw. I can’t imagine a shop in both disciplines, woodworking and metalworking, without all four tools. I’m no professional, but I own multiple examples of all the tools mentioned here, except for the cold saw, my lone one being a Makita. But I like the look of the Evolution, and no doubt will add one. After all, the first rule of tool ownership is well known: buy more.
Ok, maybe I missed this, but should you push the torch against the material, or let it float just above?
Some hand pieces have a stand off ? Others you can drag , others you hold off ,all depends on the hand piece you are useing , sorry cant help much more , regards from australia
Great video. Do these come with various gas supplies?
I like pulling too
Pushing is better because you can see your cut
Very cool!
Thanks!
i put on my welding mask , but couldnt watch the video !
Hi Tim! I just discovered your channel. Thanks for your very good explanations and good quality movie. I started to plasma cut one week ago with very poor success. The cut is ok the first 10 cm, then it doesn't go thru the metal sheet of 6mm. So I have to wait till the compressor has uploaded again. The under site shows a very thick board which is hard to get away. Terrible uneven cut.
My plasma cutter is described to work up to 160 Amps. But when I turn it up to the max, the display shows only 50 Amps. Sow what do I have to change to get better results? Stronger compressor? What size of compressor? Or better plasma cutter? Where to start?
Tim no doubt is too busy to answer every question, but maybe I can help. I own two plasma cutters and several compressors, and I can tell you right off that if your compressor is working to keep up during cutting it is almost certainly too small. The rule of thumb with compressors is to buy the biggest one you can afford - and then find a way to buy a bigger one. No one ever says “I wish I had bought a smaller compressor.” I bought a huge 5-horse two-stage compressor for my shop years ago and have not once regretted it. You don’t mention the brands of your equipment, but I would review the manufacturer’s claims about the thickness of material your plasma cutter is supposedly capable of handling. Is the machine an off brand? Check your consumables carefully, as they might be partially plugged. It could be that your machine is defective. I have purchased hundreds of imported tools with generally good results, but have found that with the most complicated devices - precision saws, welding equipment and so on - there is no substitute for premium brands such as Miller, Lincoln, Esab and Hypertherm. In fact, I have to admit that the cuts Tim regards as less than perfect look like some of what I consider my best work.
Nice tips thaks
thanks xx
You're welcome!
Nobody speaks about psi....how much? For 1 mm, 2 mm etc..thx
Tim - you should talk about drag tip versus standoff. I really wish I would’ve bought a drag tip machine versus having to run a standoff . You should also talk about looking at consumable replacement cost. I have a Hobart air500I and the replacement consumable costs are 3 to 4 times more because Hobart uses their own style as opposed to a more Standard torch that a lot of companies make the consumables for.
I pay $10-ish for consumables with this machine as opposed to $1 or $2 for consumables that match a widely used torch.
I also found that when I switched out to a large air compressor (80 Gallon)for my garage it produces way more moisture and made me go through consumables 3 to 4 times more often than with my small compressor. I found the easy workaround was to hook four or five small passive silica bead filters together in line with the air hose. I even tried buying a powered air dryer machine and that did not work when combined with a large compressor to filter out all the water before it went to plasma cutter.
Thanks for the tips. Drag tips are nice, for sure. My Hypertherm consumables are $10-$15 for a nozzle and electrode depending on the machine, but they work great and last a long time, so I don't mind spending more for a quality product. I'm surprised that a dryer didn't work for you, I wonder if there's oil getting through your pump.
Given how easy plasma cutters are to use and they don't use much consumables, why are oxy acetylene preferred sometimes? I mean it basically makes acetylene obsolete. Even in construction it's rare to cut anything thicker than 3/4" unless you are building large skyscrapers... And you can't really use a straight edge with an acetylene torch.
Torches are portable and don’t need air/power, so they’re good for that reason, but it’s true that plasma has largely replaced oxygen acetylene.
@@TimWelds The torch itself might be, but not the oxygen and acetylene tanks it needs.
Would it make sense that the "ground side" of the material gets the more precise cut. That would make more sense to me than right or left side.
Trsted my new one yesterday no eye protection trust me wear it lol
you are wrong about the pilot arc thing. you have to close the ciquit to make the pilot arc thng work. also
Great video Tim 👍.
I have a question for you.
Q: I'm living in the UK and looking to buy my 1st 3 in 1 mig, tig, stick welding machine. Can you recommend a good machine for my budget of between $200 - $350. Thanks.
Do you mean $2000-$3500 ?!? I have yet to see a good welding machine for $200 …. Not even mentioning a 3in 1 multi process …. That is just not the price range ….
Thanks so much!
I'm not familiar with the machines sold in the UK, but in general, that budget is probably a bit tight. As far as selecting machines, here are a few things to consider. The 3 in 1 multiprocess machines sound like a great option, but most people can meet their goals with one process. Focussing on one process not only can reduce the machine cost, it reduces other costs that many people do not consider, especially gas cylinders (MIG and TIG will take different gasses, so you would need 2). Other costs for setting up each process are filler metal, electrodes, contact tips, gloves, etc. That being said, assuming costs are similar to the US, your budget is probably too tight to get a good set up for any of the processes. The lowest cost process to set up for is stick welding, which is great if you don't mind a learning curve and you're working with steel material 3mm (1/8") and thicker. You could probably get set up for stick welding with your budget, but probably not with a very good machine unless you were lucky to find one second hand. What I would recommend is picking one process to start with (for most people I talk to, it's MIG, but it really depends on what you're doing). Then, price out the equipment, safety gear, consumables and gas and set that as a target to save a bit more for it. Hope this helps.
@@TimWelds Thanks for that lengthy reply Tim. I've already purchased most of the safety kit and consumables and now just saving up for the machine, but I will definitely take on board what you said. Once again, thank you for your time, and I look forward to your next video 👍👍👍
@@TimWelds Generally in Europe things will be a little bit more expensive than in the US. We have mandatory minimum warranties and a little bit higher VAT which add to prices.
Great video . I actually have been looking to buy a plasma cutter but i was afraid it would be way more noisy than grinder as you need a big air compressor glad to know i can work with a small one!!
Do you knowHow much scfm do you need in order to cut with a plasma cutter?
If I did all this my boss would put someone else in the table lmao
Nobody talks about air pressure settings