Planned obsolescence with the aim of maximizing profits. A product which is precisely calculated to break or wear at a certain rate makes for a more predictable outcome in regards to the consumer base repurchasing the item in question and guaranteeing a profit which can be more predictable. And it sucks. It basically eradicated the trades which maintain and restore a wide variety of products which we now simply just consume and throw away.
Lack of engineering knowledge, due to a lesser understanding of material properties, back in the day. Now engineers/designers can calculate exactly the material strength needed, minimizing the over building of products which results in shorter lifespan = more product sold.
I think one answer may be that manufacturing techniques ensured that things could be disassembled, and therefore repaired. Modern manufacturing means that there are lots of components that are integrated to minimise construction costs, and inevitably that means that individual components can't be replaced. Add in a good measure of planned obsolescence and the other factors that M J mentions, and you have today's disposable society ... sad really, isn't it.
The older tools were built to last for multiple reasons. Not the least of which was that people took pride in their work/tools/and the building of tools for others. Another was that those tools were built to supply our men over seas fighting for our freedoms. Yet another reason is that men had more testosterone back in the day and really put their tools through their paces, often working beyond what would be considered OSHA compliant these days. The safety-sallies have put so much input into the manufacturing process that well built tools would be cost prohibitive even 100 years post Depression. Also, components were built out of tangible substances that could be repaired instead of replaced. The repairability made them last longer as well.
Years ago i saved a big speedaire compressor from going to scrap, it has a Champion S-20 pump with some broken valves, also had a 3 phase motor, i got 4 new valves and a good 220vac motor and with a little work it has been the best compressor ive ever owned, build date on it was 1972. Glad to see you saving these great old compressors, good job!
I have been able to get one of those old Quincy Compressors and the owner had took the original motor off because it was 10hp 3 phase and he didnt have 3 phase power he put a 5hp single phase motor on it and the motor was to small to keep it running past 100lbs so he sold it to me and i put the original motor back on an changed the pressure check valve, now its running like new .. Love watching your videos, i never miss any of them, thank for all your hard work and dedication to these old machines!!!
I love these big old compressors, they are so well made. I managed to get hold of 5 lovely bid Hydrovane compressors that I gave new life to, they were so quiet.
The compressor pump is a Saylor-Beall, made in the USA and still being built here. Great compressor and yes parts are not out of sight. I rebuild two in 2017.
What is a Hall of Fame quarterback doing rebuilding compressors? JK I'm sure you get jokes like that all the time but I couldn't pass up the opportunity.
Pierre de Rham water builds up in the tank when you use it.. that’s why they recommend draining the tank periodically.. so if there was a little bit of water in it, it probably didn’t matter.
One of my friends had an old craftsman compressor - the tank 'sizzled' when at pressure. I told him to immediately relieve the pressure, and that he needed to replace the whole tank. It was a BOMB just about to go off!
Ya a lot of people think that, but most the time they just tend to LEAK air and not blow up, but it's still always better to be safe than take a risk on something like that!
@@SalvageWorkshop is it even possible for a tank to "explode" or fail catastrophically with anything below 200psi? Are pinhole rust spots enough to make it explode? Will it just hiss and leak rather than explode at 150psi?
Because a capacitor measures the correct value doesn't mean it is a "good" capacitor. Charge and discharge should be taken into account. Leaking caps... etc... Blocking DC... cause issues and damage. *shrugs*... Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and time. I love your channel!!
I like the triple-tree output on this one, that's a cool feature. Not sure how durable such a design is if anything were to fall and hit it, but I like the look! Of course it'll run, it isn't broken and it'll be golden with a little TLC!
I've restored a few bench grinders and watched a lot of videos on them ive never seen them have run compasitors and start compasitors and that thing with the springs on the shaft. Either one or the other. I should get a book on ac and DC motors. Mr electric is the motor genius on TH-cam he would have tore into the motor and rewired everything. He has some contraption that spins the copper wire.
Many Single phase motors like these have that centripetal switch in them to shut off the starting circuit / disconnect the start caps for normal use! That machine you are talking about is for replacing the motor windings when the motor is bad. Funny thing is, I was actually given a home made winding machine for doing just that! I'll never use it! Ain't nobody got time for that! (except Mr. Electric)!
@@thecynic807 That's crazy to me, but he knows motors better than I do and has the experience! I'm a firm believer in: If it ain't broke, don't mess it up!
I think it was just years of oil leaking and other junk in the air... who knows!! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
Just fond this channel . Great video of an old compressor. Should work like a dream when done. Much better machine than what can by today. My opinion of course.
They still make that same compressor here in the USA. Google, Saylor Beall 705,all parts are still being supplied. I rebuilt two in 2017, Kits cast about $200.00
Better than what MOST people are willing to spend on a new one today (even myself)!I can't wait to have this baby humming away here in the shop! Thanks for watching & commenting!
I messured the thickness, of some of those old tanks. with a ultrasound scanner from work. I messured it all over. it where between 7-8 mm. thinnes in the buttom. New'er tanks I have messured down to 5mm. So I dont worry that much anymore if old Tanks are safe. But inspect by eye for defects :)
Years ago, I started building things myself I invested in two big tools. A mig welder and an air compressor. Before using the air compressor I learned to weld and made a cage for the compressor to sit in while in use. No explosions thus far but I wouldn’t operate one without the cage. Terrifying things haha.
I liked the Hydrostatic test, I just pumped full of air and listened for a leak and to see if it held pressure.. Will it Run Yep I'm sure of it.. Peace
With all of this work, wouldn’t it have been a good idea to scope the inside of the tank to check for rust? I am not familiar with rebuilding air tanks or whether a pressure relief valve protects against the tank exploding.
2:35 smart move transferring that piston thing to a table any other person will break their back trying to carry it over good work. WORK SMART NOT HARD !!!! Great video. Got me looking for free. Compressors online lmao 👀🤔🙋🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️😅🤣😂
I was came across a free champion 120 gallon with a R30 pump. It needs a rebuild I have all he rings valves bearings gaskets. Im just lacking a bit of knowledge and confidence. Not real sure how to get a even hone in this thing when you can't pass out the end of the cylinders with the integrated head? With all the info on the internet these days, not anything I can fine on rebuilding an Champion R30. Perhaps you will get to one before I destroy my unit trying! lol Thanks for sharing!
Fill it full of water a manual water pump, lever action to exceed the tanks, air pressure rating in order to make sure when you do have air in it you do not explode the tank. Water does not compress as does air so if you have a tank that is no longer worthy of holding its pressure. The water will only squirt out rather than the tank explode, just a tidbit information from personal experience
Great reconditioning and restoration. I would have scoped the inside of the tank and flushed it with preservative and rust preventer Otherwise a great vid..
there's i know who built engines for rally cross and stock cars in the uk he had an old dish washer removed from his kitchen and used it to clean parts and engine cases before working on them, he used de-greasing liquid also the heating still worked so after a clean the likes of bearings were easily replaced as the casings expanded because of the heat
On one hand I agree because in theory they should have a silver plating, but in experience I've found that air compressor switches seem to always have burnt off the silver plating already. (On the 3 compressors I've worked on, in which I just used Q-tips and rubbing alcohol which cleaned them right up) Which really means you should replace it, but they make the copper over 1/16" thick so they can keep going on just copper for far longer than the silver lasted in the first place. (and this is even on American made compressors that claim to have the proper sized switch...)
Just Simple Green Degreaser, nothing special, and it does work very well! Even better when you let it soak for a minute. Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lots more to come!
Hello Salvage Workshop, your videos have been very helpful to me in restoring my own antique finds. Thank you. I was curious to know where do you buy your Durlon 8500 sheet gasket material?
I am about to embark on a similar restoration project and was wondering what fitting was used to pressurize the tank with the pressure washer. I have seen several videos where guys use this method but can tell what kind of fitting was used. Will a regular air fitting fit the pressure washers?
Thank you!! Next week's video getting the compressor rebuilt and everything assembled is going to be really cool, so stay tuned, I'm sure you are going to enjoy it!! The paint on the tank is a one step multipart paint for going over old paint jobs like those that the tank had. I chose that paint because I wasn't going to remove ALL the paint from the tank (just too much work!). Plus it's a professional paint, not a rattle can job like many of my others! lol (Unless you are talking about the electric motor, that's a rattle can job!)
The best way to remove drive screws is to use flush cutting pliers. It's like using two knife edges against each other to cut in under the head. Then you can use the heal to rock up and the screws easily . . Make sure there are NO bevels on the flush cut side of the plier.
I was rather surprised at how well it looked inside as well! I figured it would be MUCH more dirty, like the outside of the whole unit when I first got it!
I inherited my 91 year old father 1959 Kellogg American Two stage beast of a pump sitting on a John Wood Company 85 gallon 1959 horizontal tank (200 max psi) and it had a 190 psi safety valve on it that I'm replacing with TWO 165 psi valves. It operates just fine, actually very quiet and impressive! I will never run more then 140-150 psi at the compressor. I should hydro test it but I have to wonder, even if it held pressure to lets say 300 psi what's to say it won't simply fail at 140 psi a year or two or five down the road? Without a visual inspection and knowing how pitted or how deep the pits are or, how thin the inside eroded away ... isn't it just a questionable device?
Simple green xtreme concentrated! It works very well, QUICKLY! That's why I don't dilute it! I appreciate you watching and commenting! Lot's more to come!
You use a compressor for anything you need compressed air for. Pneumatic tools (like the kind an auto mechanic would use) paint sprayers, blow off and clean a multitude of things.
An air compressor is probably the most important tool in a auto/mechanic, metal or body shop. Just as a few examples, It runs air driven power tools such as Sanders, sandblasters, impact guns, ratchets, air over hydraulic lifts and presses blow guns, tire inflatiors, air hammers, die grinders, angle grinders, nibblers, shears paint guns, welders. in today's world in air compressor is not quite as important as it was 40 or 50 years ago because cordless tools have gotten so much better but it's still a very integral part of any well-functioning shop. this particular air compressor he is restoring was a commercial unit that I believe they still sell a version of today it is probably a 8 or $9,000 machine, in a home you shop it will probably last 150 years literally. If you go into something like an older mechanic shop (think of something like a Sears lube and tune center or goomers gas station on the Andy Griffith show or some other shop that has been around for decades) you will probably see something very similar to this air compressor still in use running off and on all day long 7 days a week. My neighbor has a mid 1930s Champion brand (I believe I might be wrong on the make) that he pulled out of a shop that was being leveled for apartment buildings and he brought it home wired it in and it still works like a champ it's date code is stamped literally on the pump. Great tools, so much better than what you could buy at say like a Harbor Freight or a Home Depot.
@@AtomicReverend lol, google the Saylor beall compressor, they cost much lower than your number. Its what you think you know!!!! Those compressors were designed to run 5 years in a shop setting that uses them less than 5 hours run time a day.
it may not leak but it may be very rusted inside on the bottom...i have no idea how to check that though..maybe an endoscopic camera? i have one :)....... oh an nice pressure washer!!!!
I removed all the plugs, and shined light in from each and then was able to look in the largest hole and inspect it, it looked pretty dang good! An endoscope type inspection camera would work well too, I just dont have one! That pressure washer is a beast!! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
After watching your hydrotest, I am curious about unseen rust damage to the tanks. I realize the hydrotest is a destructive, i.e. pass/fail test, but what about unseen rust that may pass the test but still be a potential burst risk. Is there some non-destructive test that can be done on tanks such as Magnaflux, ultrasound, etc. that can show significant thinning? I have often wanted to acquire a used compressor but realized that bursting is a main risk and if the hydrotest is the best way to reduce that risk. Of course if it's an auction item, for example, that is out of the question.
Hydro-testing is the standard way of testing pressure vessels, though what he did was a pressure test. Hydrotesting is testing the tanks elasticity, ie how much the tank expands at 5/3 working pressure and then how close it goes back to its original volume. I don't know if compressor tanks require Hydrotesting by the DOT. I know SCUBA tanks do as they hold 5000psi(300bar) and are dangerous when full. Don't knock the valve off one, it'll launch like an uncontrolled rocket. For those who don't know, He used water to test the pressure because if the tank ruptures it's not a bomb. Water will crack the case on major failure, but as it doesn't compress won't explosively expand on failure, just start running out the crack. As for non-destructive tests? If you have tons of money to spare, i think you might be able to get a tank x-rayed to find fatigue/micro-fractures in it. Though I don't consider a hydro-test actually destructive, it's just exposing the weakness that's already in the tank. The test it self didn't cause the weakness.
If there's a specific order, then I guess I had a 50/50 chance to get it right!! I only know enough to be dangerous! Now I know for next time though, thanks! The finish turned out pretty darn good though!
@@SalvageWorkshop if the ratio of second and third step is the same number then you did nothing wrong. but if the ratio is 3:1 and 15% thinner then it will end wrong. if its 3:1:1 then it doesnt matter.
@@SalvageWorkshop you think the inside of the tank is rusted? any ideas about that? i plan to do the same to my compressor and i dont know how to treat the inside of the tank..
Black paint and add the white teeth so the tank will look like the one Stephen Cox has on his service truck. Meant to instill fear in the enemy. Pressure testing your tank is only half of the check to confirm a tank is still usable. The first thing you should have checked was the condition of the inside of the tank. 47 years of moisture could have rusted the inside to near the point of failure that a pressure test alone may not find.
As long as people like you keep enjoying my content, I'll keep making great videos! All I can control is the content, the thumbnail image, and the video's title! So that's what I focus on! Thanks for looking out, I truly appreciate it!
Actually it's SIGNIFICANTLY safer! Water doesn't compress hardly at all, unlike air, hence compressed air... That's why water is used to test the tank, and not just air. If a leak were to happen when it's filled with water, the pressure would drop quickly because it wouldn't take much water escaping to decrease the volume inside the tank... it's not compressed like air would be. I'm sure there is a better way to explain it! Good question!
Hydro testing is used in many branches of industry. Pipelines are hydro tested usually left 24 hours and only minute pressure drop (expansion of metal etc.,) ALLL pressure tanks are water tested to at least 150%, many 200% to ensure safety. Our pressure test rig has had very few blowouts in 40 years and always the operator gets wet!!! water loses it's destructive power in microseconds under a rapid pressure drop. Most common faults are what we call "spurts" that is where a porous weld leaks and sprays water usually wetting the operator !!! We also use a metal cage that surrounds the tank simply as this is required by our insurance company. Hope all this helps
@@georgestyer2153 ASME Sec VIII, Div 1 allows hydrostatic tests at 1.3 times the max allowable working pressure multiplied by a factor to take into account the difference in test temperature to design temperature. I seem to recall years ago that we calculated hydro based on 1.5 deisign pressure.
It didn’t look like you changed the motor bearings. If it were me taking that motor apart, I would have replaced the bearings while I had it apart. Bearings aren’t that expensive, use good American made bearings.
Nope. Might have been good practice, but the bearings were fine! If it starts squeaking I'll deal with it then. I'm a firm believer in if it ain't broke, don't mess it up!! lol Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
Maybe that's true on other channels, but no trickery here! I got this compressor for free, and I honestly don't know if it will run, it wasn't hooked up and it was missing some parts when I got it, so I guess we'll see If she'll run, but I have faith that i'll run like a top! (and If I DON"T mess it up! lol)
@@bcouri1 Yup!! You'll have to see the up coming video! This is a WELL made machine! Especially for 47+ years old and having been used in a paint shop!
@@bcouri1 It's in the description and the previous video! It's a Saylor-Beall 705 2 stage Compressor pump! Still completely made in the USA, in Michigan to this day!
Simple green degreaser, just used to clean dust and debris out of the motor. Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
9:35 ......... These are "wet" (electrolytic) capacitors. And they have a tendency to deteriorate over time. Although your multimeter gives you an indication close to 15 uF, it does not mean the capacitor is still in good shape. The function of a capacitor is to be charged and discharged regularly. Could be many times per second or a few times per minute. And to do this for many years during its functional life. THAT is what a capacitor should be tested for: does it still charge and discharge rapidly and does it maintain its capacity of 15uF...?? Well....old "wet" capacitors rarely do. My advice is, to ALWAYS replace old electrolytic capacitors. Old ones could start to leak, or heat up and burst during use. Don't take that risk. Just replace them. If these old things are more than 10 years old.... throw them away (properly) and buy new ones. They are only 10 to 12 $ each, and you'll have perfect new ones and be safe for the next 10 years.
multimeters test capacitors by charging and discharging them rapidly (by passing AC through them) and measuring how much current it takes to do so -- effectively how much they charge/discharge. Your concern is not without merit, as multimeters don't test them at their full operating voltage... but the question of whether or not they can be charged/discharged is exactly answered by the test you discredit.
Testing capacitance does not tell you if the capacitor is good or not. You have to test for leakage at Max voltage rating. Eventually the capacitor will short out or open. But if it is leaky it will not last.
It used to be a matter of pride in workmanship. We have lost that. Now, things are manufactured, much of it in China and the pride has been replaced with a need for profits. Corporate philosophy has changed. Corporations used to value the customer, the employees then the stock holders. Now they value the stock holders, the customer and the employees are the last consideration. It's resulted in a loss of pride in workmanship and a decline of product quality, as a result. Profits are king! Skilled employees are viewed as cheap tools, easily replaced.
In my opinion I would NEVER EVER reuse a tank that old. If you really want to save a compressor you can buy a new tank and transfer the pump and controls. Only a fool would reuse something like that, in my opinion. Hey everybody has to die sometime, it just shouldn't be when you're draining you compressor tank.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
![What's in the box?! 1890s Safe [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
Question of the Video: Why do you think old tools & machinery were made to last back in the day?
Planned obsolescence with the aim of maximizing profits. A product which is precisely calculated to break or wear at a certain rate makes for a more predictable outcome in regards to the consumer base repurchasing the item in question and guaranteeing a profit which can be more predictable. And it sucks. It basically eradicated the trades which maintain and restore a wide variety of products which we now simply just consume and throw away.
Lack of engineering knowledge, due to a lesser understanding of material properties, back in the day. Now engineers/designers can calculate exactly the material strength needed, minimizing the over building of products which results in shorter lifespan = more product sold.
People didn’t have money to replace tools and machinery as often so they needed to buy what would last a long time
I think one answer may be that manufacturing techniques ensured that things could be disassembled, and therefore repaired.
Modern manufacturing means that there are lots of components that are integrated to minimise construction costs, and inevitably that means that individual components can't be replaced.
Add in a good measure of planned obsolescence and the other factors that M J mentions, and you have today's disposable society ... sad really, isn't it.
The older tools were built to last for multiple reasons. Not the least of which was that people took pride in their work/tools/and the building of tools for others. Another was that those tools were built to supply our men over seas fighting for our freedoms. Yet another reason is that men had more testosterone back in the day and really put their tools through their paces, often working beyond what would be considered OSHA compliant these days. The safety-sallies have put so much input into the manufacturing process that well built tools would be cost prohibitive even 100 years post Depression. Also, components were built out of tangible substances that could be repaired instead of replaced. The repairability made them last longer as well.
Years ago i saved a big speedaire compressor from going to scrap, it has a Champion S-20 pump with some broken valves, also had a 3 phase motor, i got 4 new valves and a good 220vac motor and with a little work it has been the best compressor ive ever owned, build date on it was 1972. Glad to see you saving these great old compressors, good job!
I have been able to get one of those old Quincy Compressors and the owner had took the original motor off because it was 10hp 3 phase and he didnt have 3 phase power he put a 5hp single phase motor on it and the motor was to small to keep it running past 100lbs so he sold it to me and i put the original motor back on an changed the pressure check valve, now its running like new .. Love watching your videos, i never miss any of them, thank for all your hard work and dedication to these old machines!!!
I love these big old compressors, they are so well made. I managed to get hold of 5 lovely bid Hydrovane compressors that I gave new life to, they were so quiet.
Me too!! Well built and AMAZING to use!
Is there nothing the guy can’t do 🤣 Evening time I each a video I’m amazed at the knowledge on fixing the old machines 👍🏻😎🏴
What ? Do you talk like you spell ?
The compressor pump is a Saylor-Beall, made in the USA and still being built here. Great compressor and yes parts are not out of sight. I rebuild two in 2017.
You got it!! Amazing, well made compressors that are easy to work on!
What is a Hall of Fame quarterback doing rebuilding compressors? JK I'm sure you get jokes like that all the time but I couldn't pass up the opportunity.
Hey, that old compressor motor hasn't been that clean since the day it was brand new. Great job.
Thanks for showing that hydrostatic test. I always wondered about that.
No problem!! Everyone tells you to do one, but few show it being done!
Pierre de Rham water builds up in the tank when you use it.. that’s why they recommend draining the tank periodically.. so if there was a little bit of water in it, it probably didn’t matter.
One of my friends had an old craftsman compressor - the tank 'sizzled' when at pressure. I told him to immediately relieve the pressure, and that he needed to replace the whole tank. It was a BOMB just about to go off!
Ya a lot of people think that, but most the time they just tend to LEAK air and not blow up, but it's still always better to be safe than take a risk on something like that!
@@SalvageWorkshop is it even possible for a tank to "explode" or fail catastrophically with anything below 200psi?
Are pinhole rust spots enough to make it explode? Will it just hiss and leak rather than explode at 150psi?
Paint it like a WWII bomber/dog-fight plane. Pin-up girl and all.
Hmm.. now there is an interesting idea! You'll find out what I decided to do in the next video!! It'll be worth the wait! I'm excited about it!
Great job so far! loving it!
Awesome!! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
Because a capacitor measures the correct value doesn't mean it is a "good" capacitor. Charge and discharge should be taken into account. Leaking caps... etc... Blocking DC... cause issues and damage. *shrugs*... Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and time. I love your channel!!
I like the triple-tree output on this one, that's a cool feature. Not sure how durable such a design is if anything were to fall and hit it, but I like the look! Of course it'll run, it isn't broken and it'll be golden with a little TLC!
I've restored a few bench grinders and watched a lot of videos on them ive never seen them have run compasitors and start compasitors and that thing with the springs on the shaft. Either one or the other. I should get a book on ac and DC motors.
Mr electric is the motor genius on TH-cam he would have tore into the motor and rewired everything. He has some contraption that spins the copper wire.
Many Single phase motors like these have that centripetal switch in them to shut off the starting circuit / disconnect the start caps for normal use! That machine you are talking about is for replacing the motor windings when the motor is bad. Funny thing is, I was actually given a home made winding machine for doing just that! I'll never use it! Ain't nobody got time for that! (except Mr. Electric)!
@@SalvageWorkshop yeah he does it every time even if it doesnt need it.
@@thecynic807 That's crazy to me, but he knows motors better than I do and has the experience! I'm a firm believer in: If it ain't broke, don't mess it up!
It looks like it was in a building that had a small fire but lots of soot . I bet it runs perfect 😉👍🇺🇸
I think it was just years of oil leaking and other junk in the air... who knows!! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
Very enjoyable to watch!👍👍
Thank you! I appreciate you watching and commenting! Lot's more to come!
Just fond this channel . Great video of an old compressor. Should work like a dream when done. Much better machine than what can by today. My opinion of course.
They still make that same compressor here in the USA. Google, Saylor Beall 705,all parts are still being supplied. I rebuilt two in 2017, Kits cast about $200.00
Better than what MOST people are willing to spend on a new one today (even myself)!I can't wait to have this baby humming away here in the shop! Thanks for watching & commenting!
Exactly!! Well made for decades here in the USA! For anyone needing a rebuild kit, check out Pacific Air Compressors in the description!
anything named AJAX is gonna be good. that, and those ACME anvils.
Lol I thought it was pretty BAD A** as well!
Very good restoration bro 👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪
I messured the thickness, of some of those old tanks. with a ultrasound scanner from work. I messured it all over. it where between 7-8 mm. thinnes in the buttom. New'er tanks I have messured down to 5mm. So I dont worry that much anymore if old Tanks are safe. But inspect by eye for defects :)
Very very good job
Bravo
Years ago, I started building things myself I invested in two big tools. A mig welder and an air compressor.
Before using the air compressor I learned to weld and made a cage for the compressor to sit in while in use.
No explosions thus far but I wouldn’t operate one without the cage. Terrifying things haha.
If explosions are a legit worry why didn't you have the tank hydro-tested? What industry does so can you.
@@obfuscated3090 time, weight and cost. The compressor is stationary and lives in the cage full time. No need for the ongoing cost of hydro testing.
Yep. Great work as always man!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
I liked the Hydrostatic test, I just pumped full of air and listened for a leak and to see if it held pressure.. Will it Run Yep I'm sure of it.. Peace
I figured you might like seeing the Hydrostatic test!
6:42 I would have left it like that with just a final clear coat. Shows a bit of the history that you mentioned in Part 1.
With all of this work, wouldn’t it have been a good idea to scope the inside of the tank to check for rust? I am not familiar with rebuilding air tanks or whether a pressure relief valve protects against the tank exploding.
USB borescopes are perfect for the job and cheap too. I use mine often.
Someone please sponsor this man a box of rubber gloves.
Fun vid, as always. Can't wait to see how they turn out.
LOL! I prefer to use my hands MOST of the time!
Nice heavy duty comp for a home workshop.
I agree! It should do nicely for everything I'll ever need! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
Great job.
2:35 smart move transferring that piston thing to a table any other person will break their back trying to carry it over good work. WORK SMART NOT HARD !!!! Great video. Got me looking for free. Compressors online lmao 👀🤔🙋🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️😅🤣😂
This compressor should work ok, i like the way u tested the tank
Thank you! It's a WELL made compressor, and I agree, it'll be a great compressor once I'm finished with it!
As for testing the capacitors, you also need to test the LEAKAGE, and the ESR before declaring them to be "good".
I was came across a free champion 120 gallon with a R30 pump. It needs a rebuild I have all he rings valves bearings gaskets. Im just lacking a bit of knowledge and confidence. Not real sure how to get a even hone in this thing when you can't pass out the end of the cylinders with the integrated head? With all the info on the internet these days, not anything I can fine on rebuilding an Champion R30. Perhaps you will get to one before I destroy my unit trying! lol Thanks for sharing!
Well now I'm hooked! Thumbs up and subscribed, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
Fill it full of water a manual water pump, lever action to exceed the tanks, air pressure rating in order to make sure when you do have air in it you do not explode the tank. Water does not compress as does air so if you have a tank that is no longer worthy of holding its pressure. The water will only squirt out rather than the tank explode, just a tidbit information from personal experience
Great reconditioning and restoration. I would have scoped the inside of the tank and flushed it with preservative and rust preventer Otherwise a great vid..
What did you use as a cleaner that you sprayed inside to clean the contacts and wires?
there's i know who built engines for rally cross and stock cars in the uk he had an old dish washer removed from his kitchen and used it to clean parts and engine cases before working on them, he used de-greasing liquid also the heating still worked so after a clean the likes of bearings were easily replaced as the casings expanded because of the heat
well done.
11:48 ruining the plated contacts on the switch by sanding the plating off. Contact cleaner would have cleaned them without damaging them.
On one hand I agree because in theory they should have a silver plating, but in experience I've found that air compressor switches seem to always have burnt off the silver plating already. (On the 3 compressors I've worked on, in which I just used Q-tips and rubbing alcohol which cleaned them right up)
Which really means you should replace it, but they make the copper over 1/16" thick so they can keep going on just copper for far longer than the silver lasted in the first place.
(and this is even on American made compressors that claim to have the proper sized switch...)
Wondering is the spray just a degreaser or something for electric cleaning...seems to work well...nice video by the way....
Just Simple Green Degreaser, nothing special, and it does work very well! Even better when you let it soak for a minute. Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lots more to come!
Hello Salvage Workshop, your videos have been very helpful to me in restoring my own antique finds. Thank you. I was curious to know where do you buy your Durlon 8500 sheet gasket material?
I am about to embark on a similar restoration project and was wondering what fitting was used to pressurize the tank with the pressure washer. I have seen several videos where guys use this method but can tell what kind of fitting was used. Will a regular air fitting fit the pressure washers?
Looks like all it needed was a good cleanup
I would say it needed a bit more than that! lol! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
What did you use as a cleaner to spray inside the electric motor cleaning the contacts and wires?
Enjoyed watching you bring this project back to life again. But what happened to the primer first? Thumbs Up!
Thank you!! Next week's video getting the compressor rebuilt and everything assembled is going to be really cool, so stay tuned, I'm sure you are going to enjoy it!!
The paint on the tank is a one step multipart paint for going over old paint jobs like those that the tank had. I chose that paint because I wasn't going to remove ALL the paint from the tank (just too much work!). Plus it's a professional paint, not a rattle can job like many of my others! lol (Unless you are talking about the electric motor, that's a rattle can job!)
Was that rust I heard rolling around in the tank as you turned it over?
The best way to remove drive screws is to use flush cutting pliers. It's like using two knife edges against each other to cut in under the head. Then you can use the heal to rock up and the screws easily . . Make sure there are NO bevels on the flush cut side of the plier.
The motor sure did not have that many hours of service, very clean. Never use more than 35 PSIG air to blow out the windings.
I was rather surprised at how well it looked inside as well! I figured it would be MUCH more dirty, like the outside of the whole unit when I first got it!
I inherited my 91 year old father 1959 Kellogg American Two stage beast of a pump sitting on a John Wood Company 85 gallon 1959 horizontal tank (200 max psi) and it had a 190 psi safety valve on it that I'm replacing with TWO 165 psi valves.
It operates just fine, actually very quiet and impressive!
I will never run more then 140-150 psi at the compressor.
I should hydro test it but I have to wonder, even if it held pressure to lets say 300 psi what's to say it won't simply fail at 140 psi a year or two or five down the road?
Without a visual inspection and knowing how pitted or how deep the pits are or, how thin the inside eroded away ... isn't it just a questionable device?
The compresser pump was cleaned by another compresser pump
What are you using in the spray bottle for degreasing? 50% Simple Green?
Simple green xtreme concentrated! It works very well, QUICKLY! That's why I don't dilute it! I appreciate you watching and commenting! Lot's more to come!
Clorphen is a trade name of PCB's
So for those of us who are not from the restoration world: what do you use a compressor for? Is it supposed to be self-explanatory?
You use a compressor for anything you need compressed air for. Pneumatic tools (like the kind an auto mechanic would use) paint sprayers, blow off and clean a multitude of things.
An air compressor is probably the most important tool in a auto/mechanic, metal or body shop.
Just as a few examples, It runs air driven power tools such as Sanders, sandblasters, impact guns, ratchets, air over hydraulic lifts and presses blow guns, tire inflatiors, air hammers, die grinders, angle grinders, nibblers, shears paint guns, welders.
in today's world in air compressor is not quite as important as it was 40 or 50 years ago because cordless tools have gotten so much better but it's still a very integral part of any well-functioning shop.
this particular air compressor he is restoring was a commercial unit that I believe they still sell a version of today it is probably a 8 or $9,000 machine, in a home you shop it will probably last 150 years literally. If you go into something like an older mechanic shop (think of something like a Sears lube and tune center or goomers gas station on the Andy Griffith show or some other shop that has been around for decades) you will probably see something very similar to this air compressor still in use running off and on all day long 7 days a week.
My neighbor has a mid 1930s Champion brand (I believe I might be wrong on the make) that he pulled out of a shop that was being leveled for apartment buildings and he brought it home wired it in and it still works like a champ it's date code is stamped literally on the pump.
Great tools, so much better than what you could buy at say like a Harbor Freight or a Home Depot.
@@AtomicReverend lol, google the Saylor beall compressor, they cost much lower than your number. Its what you think you know!!!! Those compressors were designed to run 5 years in a shop setting that uses them less than 5 hours run time a day.
it may not leak but it may be very rusted inside on the bottom...i have no idea how to check that though..maybe an endoscopic camera? i have one :)....... oh an nice pressure washer!!!!
I removed all the plugs, and shined light in from each and then was able to look in the largest hole and inspect it, it looked pretty dang good! An endoscope type inspection camera would work well too, I just dont have one! That pressure washer is a beast!! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
After watching your hydrotest, I am curious about unseen rust damage to the tanks. I realize the hydrotest is a destructive, i.e. pass/fail test, but what about unseen rust that may pass the test but still be a potential burst risk. Is there some non-destructive test that can be done on tanks such as Magnaflux, ultrasound, etc. that can show significant thinning? I have often wanted to acquire a used compressor but realized that bursting is a main risk and if the hydrotest is the best way to reduce that risk. Of course if it's an auction item, for example, that is out of the question.
Hydro-testing is the standard way of testing pressure vessels, though what he did was a pressure test. Hydrotesting is testing the tanks elasticity, ie how much the tank expands at 5/3 working pressure and then how close it goes back to its original volume. I don't know if compressor tanks require Hydrotesting by the DOT. I know SCUBA tanks do as they hold 5000psi(300bar) and are dangerous when full. Don't knock the valve off one, it'll launch like an uncontrolled rocket.
For those who don't know, He used water to test the pressure because if the tank ruptures it's not a bomb. Water will crack the case on major failure, but as it doesn't compress won't explosively expand on failure, just start running out the crack.
As for non-destructive tests? If you have tons of money to spare, i think you might be able to get a tank x-rayed to find fatigue/micro-fractures in it. Though I don't consider a hydro-test actually destructive, it's just exposing the weakness that's already in the tank. The test it self didn't cause the weakness.
Industry normally borescopes tanks and other pressure vessels. USB scopes are cheap and fun to use.
Did you clean the inside of the tank at all? if so what all did you do to clean the inside of the tank?
Are you sure you did the mixing right? First paint then hardener then thinner is the correct order. You put thinner second.
If there's a specific order, then I guess I had a 50/50 chance to get it right!! I only know enough to be dangerous! Now I know for next time though, thanks! The finish turned out pretty darn good though!
@@SalvageWorkshop if the ratio of second and third step is the same number then you did nothing wrong.
but if the ratio is 3:1 and 15% thinner then it will end wrong.
if its 3:1:1 then it doesnt matter.
@@SalvageWorkshop you think the inside of the tank is rusted? any ideas about that?
i plan to do the same to my compressor and i dont know how to treat the inside of the tank..
5:08 is like me when my gf says do not pull out i’m like “Well I mean I guess I do what you say”
How often would you test an old tank like this? Would you take a look inside with a camera?
I would sure as hell like to know WHERE you get the parts to rebuild the compressor. (?)
Black paint and add the white teeth so the tank will look like the one Stephen Cox has on his service truck.
Meant to instill fear in the enemy.
Pressure testing your tank is only half of the check to confirm a tank is still usable.
The first thing you should have checked was the condition of the inside of the tank. 47 years of moisture could have rusted the inside to near the point of failure that a pressure test alone may not find.
HMMMMM... now there is an idea! I guess we'll see!
I definitely checked the inside of the tank, it's just hard to get a camera in there!
@@SalvageWorkshop Endoscope USB Camera !
Where do you get that Saylor Beall colored paint? Or what is the paint code? I got a 707 compressor I'm rebuilding and can't find that paint.
To trigger the haters and reactionaries. TH-cam doesn’t look at the quality of viewer engagement, only the amount.
As long as people like you keep enjoying my content, I'll keep making great videos! All I can control is the content, the thumbnail image, and the video's title! So that's what I focus on! Thanks for looking out, I truly appreciate it!
Question about hydro static pressure testing. Wouldn't a tank full of water be way more destructive that just air?
Actually it's SIGNIFICANTLY safer! Water doesn't compress hardly at all, unlike air, hence compressed air... That's why water is used to test the tank, and not just air. If a leak were to happen when it's filled with water, the pressure would drop quickly because it wouldn't take much water escaping to decrease the volume inside the tank... it's not compressed like air would be. I'm sure there is a better way to explain it! Good question!
@@SalvageWorkshop Sounds reasonable I need to look in to that
Hydro testing is used in many branches of industry. Pipelines are hydro tested usually left 24 hours and only minute pressure drop (expansion of metal etc.,) ALLL pressure tanks are water tested to at least 150%, many 200% to ensure safety.
Our pressure test rig has had very few blowouts in 40 years and always the operator gets wet!!! water loses it's destructive power in microseconds under a rapid pressure drop. Most common faults are what we call "spurts" that is where a porous weld leaks and sprays water usually wetting the operator !!!
We also use a metal cage that surrounds the tank simply as this is required by our insurance company.
Hope all this helps
Here was my question, here lies my answer. Thank you, people of TH-cam.
@@georgestyer2153 ASME Sec VIII, Div 1 allows hydrostatic tests at 1.3 times the max allowable working pressure multiplied by a factor to take into account the difference in test temperature to design temperature. I seem to recall years ago that we calculated hydro based on 1.5 deisign pressure.
What brand is the small black impact driver that you were using to take the cover off of the motor electrical compartment
It didn’t look like you changed the motor bearings. If it were me taking that motor apart, I would have replaced the bearings while I had it apart. Bearings aren’t that expensive, use good American made bearings.
Nope. Might have been good practice, but the bearings were fine! If it starts squeaking I'll deal with it then. I'm a firm believer in if it ain't broke, don't mess it up!! lol Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
ah come on man take all way to 500
How long are you supposed to leave it sit after you pressurize the tank
What cleaner did u use in the motor
what are you using to clean inside of motor?
Simple green degreaser. Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
What is the solution you use in the sprayer?
Simple green! Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
I think the paunts gonna be like thoes bomber planes with the big bullet with the teeth
You better stay tuned!
Painting your logo on it.
That remains to be seen!
well, not to be picky, but it wouldve run when you got it so i suppose the only way it will run again is if you do the rebuild properly..
Maybe that's true on other channels, but no trickery here! I got this compressor for free, and I honestly don't know if it will run, it wasn't hooked up and it was missing some parts when I got it, so I guess we'll see If she'll run, but I have faith that i'll run like a top! (and If I DON"T mess it up! lol)
@@SalvageWorkshop mostly only say that because you turned the pump over and it "farted" that means it'll pump. If it farts it runs lol
@@bcouri1 Yup!! You'll have to see the up coming video! This is a WELL made machine! Especially for 47+ years old and having been used in a paint shop!
@@SalvageWorkshop did you ever state the mfg of the pump? It looks like a Kellogg 2 stage unit
@@bcouri1 It's in the description and the previous video! It's a Saylor-Beall 705 2 stage Compressor pump! Still completely made in the USA, in Michigan to this day!
Stenciled something on the tank maybe.
I guess you'll have to stop back by next Saturday and find out!
@@SalvageWorkshop I will
what ia the stuff you are spritzing into the elwctric motor?
Simple green degreaser, just used to clean dust and debris out of the motor. Thanks for watching and commenting! I truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
What Color paint and type of paint did you use?
Its a custom matched color that was matched to the original color... Its a variation of Metallic Blue.
That's where you're going to put the Salvage Workshop logo
That is a possibility!
To add a flying tigers shark mouth.
You got it! Check out part three, It's finished!
You really did a beautiful job on the compressor. I've thought of doing this same thing to mine. Great minds think a like.
Looks like you went with the S/B. It will outlast you and your kids. :)
I believe you are right!
👍
9:35 ......... These are "wet" (electrolytic) capacitors. And they have a tendency to deteriorate over time. Although your multimeter gives you an indication close to 15 uF, it does not mean the capacitor is still in good shape. The function of a capacitor is to be charged and discharged regularly. Could be many times per second or a few times per minute. And to do this for many years during its functional life.
THAT is what a capacitor should be tested for: does it still charge and discharge rapidly and does it maintain its capacity of 15uF...??
Well....old "wet" capacitors rarely do.
My advice is, to ALWAYS replace old electrolytic capacitors. Old ones could start to leak, or heat up and burst during use.
Don't take that risk.
Just replace them. If these old things are more than 10 years old.... throw them away (properly) and buy new ones. They are only 10 to 12 $ each, and you'll have perfect new ones and be safe for the next 10 years.
multimeters test capacitors by charging and discharging them rapidly (by passing AC through them) and measuring how much current it takes to do so -- effectively how much they charge/discharge.
Your concern is not without merit, as multimeters don't test them at their full operating voltage... but the question of whether or not they can be charged/discharged is exactly answered by the test you discredit.
Good points from both of you..I was curious so thanks for the insights
Will it run again? Surely, you're teasing us. I think I'd bet my shirt that it's going to run as sweet as a nut
I sure hope so! LOL Thanks for watching, I truly appreciate it!
Testing capacitance does not tell you if the capacitor is good or not. You have to test for leakage at Max voltage rating. Eventually the capacitor will short out or open. But if it is leaky it will not last.
cant they just use thiker sheet metal to make tank?
You need a p laser for this restoration.
Wow no primer or sealer on tank, just straight to paint?!? That’s gonna look like a big smurf 💩💩💩 soon. Bad call bro. ALWAYS prime surfaces
👍😎🍺👍
Why did paint the motor black it should be all the same color ?
Because I wanted to! There is not "should be" when you restore something for yourself!
I don't know about restoring a pressure vessel man.
Next episode:
will the old fart build pressure, or pass gas.
Bad dad joke sorry.
Lol.. I'm betting on building pressure! But there might be some gas involved as well!
@@SalvageWorkshop ........thump it's back and make it Burp !!!
It used to be a matter of pride in workmanship. We have lost that. Now, things are manufactured, much of it in China and the pride has been replaced with a need for profits. Corporate philosophy has changed. Corporations used to value the customer, the employees then the stock holders. Now they value the stock holders, the customer and the employees are the last consideration. It's resulted in a loss of pride in workmanship and a decline of product quality, as a result. Profits are king! Skilled employees are viewed as cheap tools, easily replaced.
A BLATANT misuse of the funny pages, otherwise a great video
A PERFECT misuse!
That's a putty color
In my opinion I would NEVER EVER reuse a tank that old. If you really want to save a compressor you can buy a new tank and transfer the pump and controls. Only a fool would reuse something like that, in my opinion. Hey everybody has to die sometime, it just shouldn't be when you're draining you compressor tank.
If it was me I would not restore it, I would just built a smoker with it
speak in your videos it would be so much better
I usually hear the opposite!
Aap kha s ho
Man! Did you hear? You have a donkey on your garage
Your pressure test is completely inaccurate.