quite the interesting film,I learn every time I watch...about a month ago I welded up a reproduction of one of your earlier guillotine tools,made a couple dies and have been very happy with the results.I'm fairly new to this,made about a dozen tongs from rebar and can see improvement each time...you have certainly been a great help and I thank you often
It really makes me happy that guys like yourself can take something away from what you see me doing. And in the same way, I've also learned from watching others. Happy hammering. Glen
I will definitely be posting more videos of tongs and other tools - how I go about making them. Blacksmithing can be kept simple or can be made complex, depending on the craftsman and what he or she likes. There's a place for all different personality types in this craft. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen, my home made forge is almost done, have small anvil rr track and home made belt grinder. Your videos( and others) are inspiring for us beginners. I always enjoy your work and instructions. Thanks, Chuck
Chuck, it sounds like you're well on your way. Take it one step at a time and you'll progress to where you want to be in less time than you imagine. Glad you like my videos and I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. Thanks. Glen
Ig you ere my student, i'd give you a minimum of a " B+" by vertue of your minimalistic approach of operating without a full fledged Machine Shop..keep up the good work..!!
Virginia, I take a minimalistic approach to most things - I don't like things to be too complicated. And since my workspace is so small, I have to keep it orderly. Thanks. Glen
Vice grips are great tongs for beginners. You'd likely have a set kicking around the house, and the investment has already been made. If you don't have a set, go to a pawn shop where they have bins full of old tools, they work just fine. Grab a et of needle-nose pliers and you can grind them down to round jaws and you'll have a set of makeshift scrolling tongs on the cheap.
Good fun, I love those little tongs. Good Chat for a beginner too. Most people start out and work on the premise that better tools will result in better work. WRONG, more practice results in better work. Thank you for the video...
This video was sort of all over the place so I'm glad you were able to take something away from it. I will do my best to keep them coming... Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs ah man you're to hard on yourself the video came out perfect and even so some subscribers like a bit of normality in videos so they don't think we are perfect at everything haha. I recently tried to forge weld in my gas forge and although it did turn out ok it destroyed my bricks and ceramic matting how do you manage to do it in your forge?
Thanks for the encouragement. The way I manage to not destroy my gas forge lining when forge welding is to rarely forge weld in my gas forge. I like forge welding when using coal but dislike it when using gas and so avoid it usually. You can use a sacrificial fire brick or ceramic on the floor - a piece that you only use when welding - and that will help. When I showed welding in a video, I wanted to do so at that time because I was going to change my forge lining anyway. Another thing to consider to maybe help is use less or even no flux. The melted flux is what really is corrosive. I have done forge welding without flux with pure iron. But with mild steel coupled with a gas forge, it's just not that easy. if you can get your hands on pure or real wrought iron, give it a go. Or experiment with alternative fluxes... Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs brilliant thanks so much for giving me your time and explaining all that. I've now changed the lining of my forge and won't be forge welding in it from now on.
Great tool there, my friend. Puts the one I built to shame. I'm still amazed at how well you move the steel while you're seated. I know its the traditional way to smith in a lot of countries, but you move the steel very efficiently. Oh, and once again, a much more relaxed and enjoyable video. Keep it up... we're always learning more out here.
I guess my arm has gotten used to being in the seated position. I'm not sure I always move steel efficiently but for sure I recommend not trying to beat the steel into submission (as I often see guys doing). Those folks won't last long if their hammering is wild and uncontrolled. You have to work with the metal and the heat and not against it. (I should mention this in a video). Thanks for continuing to watch. Glen
I barely started this summer. I have a railroad track as an anvil, some hammers and tongs from harbor freight, and a brake drum forge. So far it works pretty well for my skill level lol.
At some point, you might want to upgrade your tooling but if what you have serves the purpose, then maybe there's no need to change. In many instances, the tools don't make the craftsman but just the opposite. And often it's better to build a good skill foundation with the basics. Thanks for sharing that info. Glen
Your guillotine is very effective. Also like your tong configuration, similar in function to offset blade tongs. But I believe yours may be stronger. Also, you weren't kidding when you said you are a minimalist. I don't see a lot of other tools. Am curious about your anvils... they appear to me to be some type of swage blocks, but have hardie and pritchel holes. I don't hear any ringing, and wonder why they are not fastened down. Do they not require anchoring? Anyways, I appreciated your video.
An idea for the top dies (spelling? English is not my native tongue): at the very top have some "arms" stretch out to the left and right. Reason: if you have arms at the very top of the top die, you don't need to put down your hammer in order to move it up, so you can put your work piece between the bottom and top die. You can just use the hammer and put it under the arm of the top die and push it up, put in the working piece with your other hand/tongs, and get going right away. Makes sense? Also, sorry if other comments already pointed this out or suggested it or in case you had this idea yourself but discarded it due to any disadvantages I didn't see at the moment. Anyway, great video. Thanks.
Thanks for your suggestion. I have thought about this tool in different forms but always find the simplest design to be best (for me). Others have suggested having the top die spring loaded so it always rebounds upward. I plan to work on this tool more when I get a chance and appreciate your input. Glen
yep have to agree they are the first tongs I'll be making as soon as my anvil arrives Got all the other gear Ps could you do a video on the shaping blocks that you are currently hammering on I believe many of your viewers would love to know this :)
Hey let me ask you something, those tongs you have, do you think it would work as a " guillotine " tong tool? Where you hammer the tong jaw like a guillotine tool? Am I making sense? I'm only asking because I'm just starting off and maybe that would work for me.
Idea for you with the tings you have there. Little bit if drilling and taping you could create inserts for the end of the tonight that would allow you to grab different thickness of metal simply by changing the the insert. Like the insert would be set up to slide over those tongs and have a set screen that clamps down on them. As always love the videos
Anthony, Your idea for making the tongs adjustable is interesting - something to think about for sure. Thanks for watching and for your input. And sorry for the slow reply. Glen
My bent knee style tongs are my personal favorite and I don't make knives. They're a little odd and take getting used to but they hold well even when rotating while hammering and are a bit more versatile than standard jaw tongs. Thanks for watching. Glen
I would say that I have about 30 seconds to work my steel before it cools off too much. But this largely depends on the size of the steel I'm working and how high of a heat I take. Thanks for watching.
Another great video..If you don't mind me asking....The other day I was trying to explain to a friend why your anvils, though smaller work so well is because they have most of their mass directly under the working surface..Like a bladesmiths post anvil..Would you agree with that assessment? thanks and keep it up
Yes, I agree. That was exactly my thinking when I designed these. I've always felt that wherever you are hammering on your anvil, how much mass is directly beneath where you are hammering very much influences how well the anvil performs. While any anvil is one unit of weight with a certain mass, having the weight is spread out horizontally (in a horn, heal or wide face) does help to a degree. But I think the more mass you have vertically in close proximity to where you are working, the better resistance. And better resistance translates to the less energy loss (more energy is directed into the workpiece and not lost through the anvil). Of course, this also depends on the type of steel, hardness, etc. Anyway, I definitely agree. Thanks for watching. Glen
love your work is the brand stamp made by you or just brought from a company and with the guillotine is it possible to make blade tapering tool so you can get a continuous taper all the way up the knife blade
The touch marks (brand stamps/logos) are made by a professional engraver here in Taiwan. I facilitate getting these made, mainly as service to those who buy any of my tools. I'm not sure if I could make the tapering dies you want. I am imagining the bottom die as flat and the top die having a slight, side to side angle. This may work but you would have to move your blade along and work it as you pull or push along since the dies are only 5/8" thick. This might leave marks at each interval. I may need to try this out and if it works, it could be a useful die choice. Any input you have is welcome. Thanks for watching and for your interesting question. Glen
Mark, I've been a bit slow to share this but will eventually make a video showing the process I use to make my bent knee style tongs. Thanks for watching. Glen
It's nothing more than a final heat to a low temperature, before scale can peel away, a light wire brushing, letting it cool until warm and spraying it down at that point with WD-40. To be honest, it's probably best to not use a spray oil on a piece that has any heat on it. You could just wait until it's cold, then spray it, to be safe. If you want a really jet black finish, get a metal container with old motor oil and a metal cover. When your piece is at a black to very dull red heat, drop it on and quickly cover (so the oil can't flash up). Just be careful with hot metal and oil - take all safety precautions. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen, by now you know I'm a fan of your channel, and the work you do. I've been trying to add up why you are overseas, your obviously an American with that East Coast accent. today you mentioned Matthew West, I'm thinking you're referring to the Christian singer? how far off am I by thinking your a Christian Missionary or Teacher? BTW- I think I really like the guillotine and I really really like the tongs. I am very interested in purchasing both, but will have to save some $ first. at any rate friend, keep sending us videos, you are a great educator of this craft
My wife is Taiwanese (we actually met here many, many moons ago). After getting married, we lived in the States (WA) for many years then decided to move back to Taiwan for a change of pace and so she could be closer to her elderly parents. I'm originally from Staten Island... Matthew donated to my channel - never heard of the singer and never did any missionary work. I'm just glad you feel you're learning something from my videos as it makes the time needed to put them together worth while. Take care. Glen
+Glen GS Tongs- we shall stay in touch. love to quiz you more regarding blacksmithing... I was quite off with my assessment of you, but I'm still a big fan of you and your work! 😁
Yes, I did try a variety of dies but found the fuller an flat dies to be most useful. Still, there's a place for all sorts of shapes, depending on the work. Thanks for watching. Glen
Jesse, It really depends on your work. Most guys radius their anvil edges a lot but I personally don't like too much radius. For some anvils, having sharp edges could be dangerous (lead to chipping) so easing most edges, at least a little, it preferable. Thanks for watching.
Do you have the guillotine tool on stock or do you make a few as ordered? I may order one next month but didn't know if you get slammed with orders n can't get one out. I do smithing on the side for small projects and would rather buy a nice one than spend hours designing one and getting tooling made. thanks and nice work
Dave, I make everything to order. Currently, I am busier than usual and so the wait for me to complete whatever you might want is about two weeks. With the guillotine tool, I would need to know the hardy hole size you want it for. Many of my customers are able to make some of the tools I offer but either don't have the time or prefer to spend their forging time doing things they enjoy. Let me know if there is anything else. Thanks. Glen
Hi Glen, awesome videos, I enjoy the detail and instruction, are your punches custom made? just curious, thank you for making great videos! Have a great day!
Luke, Yes, I make my own punches and other handled top tools. I use H13 steel which is very suitable for hot use. Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen
Glen hi please I need to be educated about you anvil that you are using in this video, where I can get it, or I have to make my own, very nice work. also what is the cost of the die and tangs, thank you and have a nice day.
Thanks for your interest in my work and for watching this video. The block anvils I use are my own designs. For a time, I was selling the smallest but the shipping is just high and margin low and so I stopped. Sorry I couldn't help you with this. I recently upgraded my guillotine tool and charge $90 for that. And I normally charge $37 per tong. You can check out my website at: www.gstongs.com Thanks. Glen
Joel, After moving (back) to Taiwan years ago, I found my work space fairly limited and I thought it wouldn't be practical if I was standing and moving around to my tools. I thought if I could do my work in a seated position, I could place my tools around me and make better use of my space. I've been working like this for years now and doubt I can go back to standing. But this may not be for everyone. I'm short and pretty flexible. Also, there are dangers that need to be heeded when forging in this way. Thanks for watching. Glen
Chris, I don't make the touch marks - a professional engraver here does. I just facilitate getting them made for my customers and subscribers. His price range seems to be from around $80 to $120, depending on the complexity. He does excellent work and uses H13 steel for these. Thanks for watching. Glen
Will, I normally charge $37 per tong but since you watched my video here, I would offer you a small discount and charge $34 per plus shipping. Shipping for one tong is $13 and increases by $5 for each additional tong. Let me know if there is anything else. Thanks. Glen
James, Yes, I will ship to anywhere in the world. And I have worked it out to where the shipping price is the same, regardless of location. The UK, more often than not, charges import duty (VAT) and I have no control over this. Thanks for watching. Glen
Oleg, yes, I know what you mean - does seem odd. I'm intentionally rusting that hammer as I think it adds character. But the rusted look is not suitable for every tool or item. Thanks for watching. Glen
I don't make these touch marks - a professional engraver here does and I just help my customers and subscribers get them made through him. His price seems to be from $80 to $120 USD, depending on the complexity. Thanks for watching. Glen
Such a great video, claiming voice man. Not in a gay way(not that there's anything wrong with that) do you have a video on how to make a good touch mark. Or better yet can I buy one from you(if I send you a idea)?
I appreciate the Seinfeld reference. I don't make touch marks. The marks I've shown in the past were made by the a professional engraver however I've stopped, at least temporarily, from offering this service. Thanks for watching.
Dominic, I'm very glad you like these tongs. Thanks for watching and sorry for the slow reply. I will eventually post a video of me making this style tong. Good luck in your work. Glen
I normally charge $90 for my current guillotine tool (an improved version of what you see in this video) and the shipping vis standard airmail is $23. It includes fuller and flat die sets. Thank for watching. Glen
I have been considering discontinuing getting these made. It often works out to be more hassle than it's worth. The shipping is high and the margin is very low (in order to keep the overall price reasonable). Still, Im not completely decided on this so if you have interest let me know. I love my own anvils of this style and use them every day. Thanks. Glen
Dylan, I charge $80 for the guillotine tool, which includes fuller and flat die sets, and the shipping via standard airmail is $23. Thanks for watching. Glen www.gstongs.com
I do have a small shop at my house in the US. My current location is not suitable for larger equipment. I thought about renting a shop space here but currently, I'm enjoying keeping things simple. I never seriously thought about getting a power hammer or hydraulic press because at that point, blacksmithing would no longer be fun to me. Maybe I'm wrong to assume that but I like to keep things as minimalistic as possible. I would however like to get a flypress. I once owned a very, very nice treadle hammer but never used it as I should have. I guess my motto should be work harder not smarter!... Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen
quite the interesting film,I learn every time I watch...about a month ago I welded up a reproduction of one of your earlier guillotine tools,made a couple dies and have been very happy with the results.I'm fairly new to this,made about a dozen tongs from rebar and can see improvement each time...you have certainly been a great help and I thank you often
It really makes me happy that guys like yourself can take something away from what you see me doing. And in the same way, I've also learned from watching others. Happy hammering. Glen
Love watching your videos. I'd love to see more of your tong and tool making techniques. I like the simplicity of your tools.
I will definitely be posting more videos of tongs and other tools - how I go about making them. Blacksmithing can be kept simple or can be made complex, depending on the craftsman and what he or she likes. There's a place for all different personality types in this craft. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen, my home made forge is almost done, have small anvil rr track and home made belt grinder. Your videos( and others) are inspiring for us beginners. I always enjoy your work and instructions. Thanks, Chuck
Chuck, it sounds like you're well on your way. Take it one step at a time and you'll progress to where you want to be in less time than you imagine. Glad you like my videos and I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. Thanks. Glen
Love your holistic approach to your Art & Profession..!!
Ig you ere my student, i'd give you a minimum of a " B+" by vertue of your minimalistic approach of operating without a full fledged Machine Shop..keep up the good work..!!
I am not a Black Smith but I am fascinated by the simplicity and elegance of your set up.
Virginia, I take a minimalistic approach to most things - I don't like things to be too complicated. And since my workspace is so small, I have to keep it orderly. Thanks. Glen
Vice grips are great tongs for beginners. You'd likely have a set kicking around the house, and the investment has already been made. If you don't have a set, go to a pawn shop where they have bins full of old tools, they work just fine. Grab a et of needle-nose pliers and you can grind them down to round jaws and you'll have a set of makeshift scrolling tongs on the cheap.
Good fun, I love those little tongs. Good Chat for a beginner too. Most people start out and work on the premise that better tools will result in better work. WRONG, more practice results in better work. Thank you for the video...
Brilliant very informative I really enjoyed this video keep them coming
This video was sort of all over the place so I'm glad you were able to take something away from it. I will do my best to keep them coming... Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs ah man you're to hard on yourself the video came out perfect and even so some subscribers like a bit of normality in videos so they don't think we are perfect at everything haha. I recently tried to forge weld in my gas forge and although it did turn out ok it destroyed my bricks and ceramic matting how do you manage to do it in your forge?
Thanks for the encouragement. The way I manage to not destroy my gas forge lining when forge welding is to rarely forge weld in my gas forge. I like forge welding when using coal but dislike it when using gas and so avoid it usually. You can use a sacrificial fire brick or ceramic on the floor - a piece that you only use when welding - and that will help. When I showed welding in a video, I wanted to do so at that time because I was going to change my forge lining anyway. Another thing to consider to maybe help is use less or even no flux. The melted flux is what really is corrosive. I have done forge welding without flux with pure iron. But with mild steel coupled with a gas forge, it's just not that easy. if you can get your hands on pure or real wrought iron, give it a go. Or experiment with alternative fluxes... Thanks. Glen
Glen GS Tongs brilliant thanks so much for giving me your time and explaining all that. I've now changed the lining of my forge and won't be forge welding in it from now on.
Great tool there, my friend. Puts the one I built to shame. I'm still amazed at how well you move the steel while you're seated. I know its the traditional way to smith in a lot of countries, but you move the steel very efficiently. Oh, and once again, a much more relaxed and enjoyable video. Keep it up... we're always learning more out here.
I guess my arm has gotten used to being in the seated position. I'm not sure I always move steel efficiently but for sure I recommend not trying to beat the steel into submission (as I often see guys doing). Those folks won't last long if their hammering is wild and uncontrolled. You have to work with the metal and the heat and not against it. (I should mention this in a video). Thanks for continuing to watch. Glen
I barely started this summer. I have a railroad track as an anvil, some hammers and tongs from harbor freight, and a brake drum forge. So far it works pretty well for my skill level lol.
At some point, you might want to upgrade your tooling but if what you have serves the purpose, then maybe there's no need to change. In many instances, the tools don't make the craftsman but just the opposite. And often it's better to build a good skill foundation with the basics. Thanks for sharing that info. Glen
Your guillotine is very effective. Also like your tong configuration, similar in function to offset blade tongs. But I believe yours may be stronger.
Also, you weren't kidding when you said you are a minimalist. I don't see a lot of other tools.
Am curious about your anvils... they appear to me to be some type of swage blocks, but have hardie and pritchel holes.
I don't hear any ringing, and wonder why they are not fastened down. Do they not require anchoring?
Anyways, I appreciated your video.
Those tongs are thje best design ive ever seen
I'm very glad you think that. This style is my personal favorite but they can take some getting used to. Thanks for watching. Glen
An idea for the top dies (spelling? English is not my native tongue): at the very top have some "arms" stretch out to the left and right. Reason: if you have arms at the very top of the top die, you don't need to put down your hammer in order to move it up, so you can put your work piece between the bottom and top die. You can just use the hammer and put it under the arm of the top die and push it up, put in the working piece with your other hand/tongs, and get going right away. Makes sense?
Also, sorry if other comments already pointed this out or suggested it or in case you had this idea yourself but discarded it due to any disadvantages I didn't see at the moment. Anyway, great video. Thanks.
Thanks for your suggestion. I have thought about this tool in different forms but always find the simplest design to be best (for me). Others have suggested having the top die spring loaded so it always rebounds upward. I plan to work on this tool more when I get a chance and appreciate your input. Glen
Checked out the guillotine tools on your site, looks awesome, when I get my own anvil I will definitely consider putting in an order.
yep have to agree they are the first tongs I'll be making as soon as my anvil arrives Got all the other gear Ps could you do a video on the shaping blocks that you are currently hammering on I believe many of your viewers would love to know this :)
where did you get those anvils. I like that style over the horn ones.
Hey let me ask you something, those tongs you have, do you think it would work as a " guillotine " tong tool? Where you hammer the tong jaw like a guillotine tool? Am I making sense? I'm only asking because I'm just starting off and maybe that would work for me.
Idea for you with the tings you have there. Little bit if drilling and taping you could create inserts for the end of the tonight that would allow you to grab different thickness of metal simply by changing the the insert. Like the insert would be set up to slide over those tongs and have a set screen that clamps down on them. As always love the videos
Anthony, Your idea for making the tongs adjustable is interesting - something to think about for sure. Thanks for watching and for your input. And sorry for the slow reply. Glen
By the way your set up is like really nice. As well as unique.
Yep, I’m Tool junkie, never have too many, my lovely touch mark may need a slight upgrade, please Glen, don’t tell my wife!
The bent knee tongs might be exactly what I am looking for as far as bladesmithing is concerned.
My bent knee style tongs are my personal favorite and I don't make knives. They're a little odd and take getting used to but they hold well even when rotating while hammering and are a bit more versatile than standard jaw tongs. Thanks for watching. Glen
How much for 1.5 by .25 inch? How much for guilatine?
Congrats for your video!!! I have a question how mutch time remain the red color of steel when you start forging???many thanks
I would say that I have about 30 seconds to work my steel before it cools off too much. But this largely depends on the size of the steel I'm working and how high of a heat I take. Thanks for watching.
Another great video..If you don't mind me asking....The other day I was trying to explain to a friend why your anvils, though smaller work so well is because they have most of their mass directly under the working surface..Like a bladesmiths post anvil..Would you agree with that assessment? thanks and keep it up
Yes, I agree. That was exactly my thinking when I designed these. I've always felt that wherever you are hammering on your anvil, how much mass is directly beneath where you are hammering very much influences how well the anvil performs. While any anvil is one unit of weight with a certain mass, having the weight is spread out horizontally (in a horn, heal or wide face) does help to a degree. But I think the more mass you have vertically in close proximity to where you are working, the better resistance. And better resistance translates to the less energy loss (more energy is directed into the workpiece and not lost through the anvil). Of course, this also depends on the type of steel, hardness, etc. Anyway, I definitely agree. Thanks for watching. Glen
love your work is the brand stamp made by you or just brought from a company and with the guillotine is it possible to make blade tapering tool so you can get a continuous taper all the way up the knife blade
The touch marks (brand stamps/logos) are made by a professional engraver here in Taiwan. I facilitate getting these made, mainly as service to those who buy any of my tools. I'm not sure if I could make the tapering dies you want. I am imagining the bottom die as flat and the top die having a slight, side to side angle. This may work but you would have to move your blade along and work it as you pull or push along since the dies are only 5/8" thick. This might leave marks at each interval. I may need to try this out and if it works, it could be a useful die choice. Any input you have is welcome. Thanks for watching and for your interesting question. Glen
Very respect from south italy :)
Pietro, I appreciate you watching and your kind words. Thanks. Glen
Please make a video on the process of making those tong....:)
Mark, I've been a bit slow to share this but will eventually make a video showing the process I use to make my bent knee style tongs. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen, what is the black finish on the guillotine? Thanks.
It's nothing more than a final heat to a low temperature, before scale can peel away, a light wire brushing, letting it cool until warm and spraying it down at that point with WD-40. To be honest, it's probably best to not use a spray oil on a piece that has any heat on it. You could just wait until it's cold, then spray it, to be safe. If you want a really jet black finish, get a metal container with old motor oil and a metal cover. When your piece is at a black to very dull red heat, drop it on and quickly cover (so the oil can't flash up). Just be careful with hot metal and oil - take all safety precautions. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen,
by now you know I'm a fan of your channel, and the work you do. I've been trying to add up why you are overseas, your obviously an American with that East Coast accent.
today you mentioned Matthew West, I'm thinking you're referring to the Christian singer?
how far off am I by thinking your a Christian Missionary or Teacher? BTW- I think I really like the guillotine and I really really like the tongs. I am very interested in purchasing both, but will have to save some $ first. at any rate friend, keep sending us videos, you are a great educator of this craft
My wife is Taiwanese (we actually met here many, many moons ago). After getting married, we lived in the States (WA) for many years then decided to move back to Taiwan for a change of pace and so she could be closer to her elderly parents. I'm originally from Staten Island... Matthew donated to my channel - never heard of the singer and never did any missionary work. I'm just glad you feel you're learning something from my videos as it makes the time needed to put them together worth while. Take care. Glen
+Glen GS Tongs- we shall stay in touch. love to quiz you more regarding blacksmithing...
I was quite off with my assessment of you, but I'm still a big fan of you and your work! 😁
Awesome. How do you guild or tin them like that? Just by brushing with a brass brush when hot or something different?
I like that Anvil your using!
You could possible try some rounded dyes and possibly a V type dye? Very interesting tool!
Yes, I did try a variety of dies but found the fuller an flat dies to be most useful. Still, there's a place for all sorts of shapes, depending on the work. Thanks for watching. Glen
Should the anvil have a hard cornered edge or more of a rounded edge?
Jesse, It really depends on your work. Most guys radius their anvil edges a lot but I personally don't like too much radius. For some anvils, having sharp edges could be dangerous (lead to chipping) so easing most edges, at least a little, it preferable. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the reply. I love your innovative setup. Especially your new anvil setup. Very cool
great video very interesting!
As always, very happy you still find these videos interesting. Thanks for sticking around. Glen
Do you have the guillotine tool on stock or do you make a few as ordered? I may order one next month but didn't know if you get slammed with orders n can't get one out. I do smithing on the side for small projects and would rather buy a nice one than spend hours designing one and getting tooling made. thanks and nice work
Dave, I make everything to order. Currently, I am busier than usual and so the wait for me to complete whatever you might want is about two weeks. With the guillotine tool, I would need to know the hardy hole size you want it for. Many of my customers are able to make some of the tools I offer but either don't have the time or prefer to spend their forging time doing things they enjoy. Let me know if there is anything else. Thanks. Glen
Thanks. I will give you a holler in a few weeks.
Thanks for the education
Hi Glen, awesome videos, I enjoy the detail and instruction, are your punches custom made? just curious, thank you for making great videos! Have a great day!
Luke, Yes, I make my own punches and other handled top tools. I use H13 steel which is very suitable for hot use. Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen
Nice work.
Thanks James. I appreciate the support. Glen
I'm a biginer on blacksmithing can you do a video on how to do the flat iron tongs
Luis, I did make a video, actually two, on making flat tongs. Check this out: th-cam.com/video/GUgDT8hbo1M/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching.
Glen
Glen hi please I need to be educated about you anvil that you are using in this video, where I can get it, or I have to make my own, very nice work. also what is the cost of the die and tangs, thank you and have a nice day.
Thanks for your interest in my work and for watching this video. The block anvils I use are my own designs. For a time, I was selling the smallest but the shipping is just high and margin low and so I stopped. Sorry I couldn't help you with this. I recently upgraded my guillotine tool and charge $90 for that. And I normally charge $37 per tong. You can check out my website at:
www.gstongs.com
Thanks. Glen
I think the place where you put your touch mark would be more of a Ricaso
great advice thanks
Very Nice Video.
Thanks for watching. Come back for more... Glen
Point me to another video if this question is already answered, but why do you kneel when you forge/ squat?
Joel, After moving (back) to Taiwan years ago, I found my work space fairly limited and I thought it wouldn't be practical if I was standing and moving around to my tools. I thought if I could do my work in a seated position, I could place my tools around me and make better use of my space. I've been working like this for years now and doubt I can go back to standing. But this may not be for everyone. I'm short and pretty flexible. Also, there are dangers that need to be heeded when forging in this way. Thanks for watching. Glen
Ok. Thanks for answering that! :D
How do you avoid rust in your tongs And other works ass well? Things rust to easy where I live.
Do you seal your work with beeswax or boiled linseed oil? Either should help protect from rust.
How much do you usually charge for touch marks?
Chris, I don't make the touch marks - a professional engraver here does. I just facilitate getting them made for my customers and subscribers. His price range seems to be from around $80 to $120, depending on the complexity. He does excellent work and uses H13 steel for these. Thanks for watching. Glen
how much for a set of them tongs?
Will, I normally charge $37 per tong but since you watched my video here, I would offer you a small discount and charge $34 per plus shipping. Shipping for one tong is $13 and increases by $5 for each additional tong. Let me know if there is anything else. Thanks. Glen
Do you ship to the uk?
James, Yes, I will ship to anywhere in the world. And I have worked it out to where the shipping price is the same, regardless of location. The UK, more often than not, charges import duty (VAT) and I have no control over this. Thanks for watching. Glen
rusty hammer looks out of place. great video thanks.
Oleg, yes, I know what you mean - does seem odd. I'm intentionally rusting that hammer as I think it adds character. But the rusted look is not suitable for every tool or item. Thanks for watching. Glen
I'm thinking about it I really need one it will help a lot if you can can I have one?😊
Do you dale your guillotine tools
Ivan, I'm sorry - I don't quite follow your question. Please ask again. No matter, thanks for watching. Glen
How much do you want for these touchmarks? - greethings
I don't make these touch marks - a professional engraver here does and I just help my customers and subscribers get them made through him. His price seems to be from $80 to $120 USD, depending on the complexity. Thanks for watching. Glen
Such a great video, claiming voice man. Not in a gay way(not that there's anything wrong with that) do you have a video on how to make a good touch mark. Or better yet can I buy one from you(if I send you a idea)?
I appreciate the Seinfeld reference. I don't make touch marks. The marks I've shown in the past were made by the a professional engraver however I've stopped, at least temporarily, from offering this service. Thanks for watching.
I want a set of those a + tongs
Dominic, I'm very glad you like these tongs. Thanks for watching and sorry for the slow reply. I will eventually post a video of me making this style tong. Good luck in your work. Glen
What is the cost of ur gillatine tools Glen
I normally charge $90 for my current guillotine tool (an improved version of what you see in this video) and the shipping vis standard airmail is $23. It includes fuller and flat die sets. Thank for watching. Glen
I am considering getting a small anvil from you
I have been considering discontinuing getting these made. It often works out to be more hassle than it's worth. The shipping is high and the margin is very low (in order to keep the overall price reasonable). Still, Im not completely decided on this so if you have interest let me know. I love my own anvils of this style and use them every day. Thanks. Glen
guillotine tool
...how much?
Dylan, I charge $80 for the guillotine tool, which includes fuller and flat die sets, and the shipping via standard airmail is $23. Thanks for watching. Glen
www.gstongs.com
Have you ever thought of getting a power hammer or press or getting your own shop
I do have a small shop at my house in the US. My current location is not suitable for larger equipment. I thought about renting a shop space here but currently, I'm enjoying keeping things simple. I never seriously thought about getting a power hammer or hydraulic press because at that point, blacksmithing would no longer be fun to me. Maybe I'm wrong to assume that but I like to keep things as minimalistic as possible. I would however like to get a flypress. I once owned a very, very nice treadle hammer but never used it as I should have. I guess my motto should be work harder not smarter!... Thanks for watching and commenting. Glen
sorry about the type TONGS
Like
Hey! There's your face!
Carl, Yes, it's me. Not very photogenic I'm afraid. Thanks for watching.