@@dcole302 it goes really low, the cars I listened to picked up at 10-11hz. It gave me a proper massage. Also the physical sensations it can create are unlike anything else, in some track where the bass suddenly stops it almost feels like the entire car moves. I heard many cars with sealed enclosures for the rear subs and they also sounded great when properly installed, but a sealed sub is never going to be capable of such low end.
Im lean more to SPL, but I have been watching a lot of SQ builds videos and started to bring some SQ practices and that always bring compliments of how my system sounds. Even though I made some mistakes when selecting amp and speakers, I'm hoping to get a job again soon to start correcting those mistakes without abandoning my SPL preference.
@@ChrisAzure That makes sense, work comes first lol. Wishing you the best with the job search-if you need any advice or help with the DSP in the future, feel free to ask!
I wish I understood the ideas you were discussing concerning reproduction and placement/install types. To me, it was a different language. Phenomenal install.
Thanks so much! I know some of the concepts can get pretty technical. Let me know if you'd be interested in a breakdown of some of the concepts in the future
I run my Dayton planars off axis and I thought I was alone there, other than a few malaysian cats. My 10" midbass in the doors have the same problem. I have done a heroic level of door treatments and I still have buzzes on certain tracks. (SB Acoustics 10") Your underseat midbass are great. I've seen some competitors weight down their seats and add extra padding to prevent localization cues. Tungsten weights and a high temp non hardening modeling clay has worked for me in the past. When you do put a front sub in it will blow your mind. Mine took around 30 hrs to build. Worth every second. I run two 18" IB. even with time alignment; it was the devil to get it correct the way I wanted. It was a completely different sound after. Far more balanced than before. Great install brother. Subscribed. By the by, Are you on Diyma by chance? My handle is just call me KeV
Thanks for subscribing! Sounds like we’ve got a lot in common with off-axis planars and battling those midbass buzzes. I subscribed to your channel as well; you've put together a sick build and you're not messing around with your cone area. I’m looking forward to the front sub project now. Tungsten weights and non-hardening clay sound like a great approach; that’s more to add to the build list lol. You can find me on DIYMA under 'willleskowitz'
@@leskoaudio I really wanted to address the "midbass problem" in this build. Reading Lycan and Patrick's posts on diyma had me thinking a completely different way. Multiple midbass locations. I also just wanted to push the envelope as far as I could possibly go. So, I've let my imagination completely unfurl. It has been a challenging and exciting adventure.
Glad TH-cam recommended this video to me, your other videos are really solid too. I've been brainstorming a very similar setup, apart from the AMT tweeter, however you brought up some things I hadn't considered. In my case the underseat IB midbass also seems like the best option, since I have essentially no room in the kicks on the drivers side and the doors would need custom enclosures to have any chance with them. I've been looking at 4"-5" midranges/midwoofers on the dash, not sure how that would go since my car doesn't have stock locations up there and it's gonna be tight with all the AC ducts. I have a massive cancellation with a sub in the trunk at 48-80 Hz, so the fact that a true IB sub couldn't play that high wouldn't even matter in my case I guess. Theoretically, what sort of frequency range would you play with a front sub in your setup? I would imagine that the bands for the front sub and the midbass would be pretty narrow
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you enjoyed it - the setup sounds great. Going with under-seat IB seems like the move to me. I had the same feelings about space limitations. I hear you on the larger midranges; I hope you can fit them. That is a great question. When integrating a front sub, I'm imagining 200-80 Hz for the midbass, 80 - 40 (hopefully 30) for the front sub, and everying below for the rear sub. I am concerned about phase issues with such narrow bands, so I'm aiming for at least an octave on each.
The dash had some problems with rattling initially. The small side vents that aim at the windows particularly had annoying buzzes, but I’ve been able to treat them. Front sub might reveal some more though. The doors and rear deck are far more problematic for rattles
Great video, thank you. I'm sure a dumb question, how much audio plays outside volume wise with your IB for the mid bass and your sub? Are they loud enough to bother people when your parked or driving? Is like the motorcycle stereos that just scream when parked.. sorry if this is a bad question
That’s a great question - it is surely louder than sealed, but it’s quieter than I expected. It is not like the motorcycles because only under 200 Hz is playing outside, so it’s mostly muffled bass. You do have to be mindful. I’d like to test this in the future, thanks for the idea 🔊🔊
My friend you have a quality built right there... I Will love to listen to your System one day. One question can you please provide me with information where can I get the foam for the infinite baffle. Thank you
thanks! here are a few options that I've used 1) Pre Filter Sheet, 12x12 in, Cut-To-Fit, Polyester, Black, Each a.co/d/4p6yvm0 2) Universal Water Resistant Hydrophobic Speaker Grill Fabric Material a.co/d/3wZH6Wq 3) Speaker Grill Foam 1/4” x 48" x 120" (HxWxL) Dry Fast Reticulated Foam a.co/d/bSGoomP I use 3) Dryfast Speaker Grill foam to act as the first barrier between dust and any splashed water from outside. It works well alone, but is not explicitly hydrophobic. Then, you can layer 1) or 2) on top as the true hydrophobic barrier if needed. 1) and 2) also work well for replacing ventilation flaps that rattle with bass with another water barrier rather than sealing them up and causing humidity problems!
Thanks for that observation! I use it for power reserve for my dash cam, tuning, and competitions. I typically don’t listen to music with the engine off myself.
question why have 3 fuse power blocks? possible to explain the wiring for that? I would have thought one fuse block with 2 IN 4 OUT will be sufficient to connect the batteries, amps, n dsps?
That is a good observation - they are mainly for future expansion. Currently, I'm using 1 for the DSP, 2 for amps, and 1 for a relay/BT. The other four are for 2 upcoming amps for the front sub and rear fill, 1 for LEDs, and 1 more for external charging. The INs are all gobbled up by the batteries and connecting the two blocks. Edit: additional info/clarity
My guy... $1200+ on an amp for 2x110w just begs for the term "rip-off". 😅 LoL, I digress, but glad you like your system! I'm sure many of us would love to have one like it!
😂 I get where you're coming from! The numbers climb quickly in this hobby lol - this is my dream setup, and I have no regrets although my pocket does. It's definitely been a fun project, and I appreciate the support!
@@leskoaudio LoL. Oh, I know about the numbers... Had a 28k watt system in my previous vehicle that the motor and transmission gave out on mere months after the equipment installation had finished. 😒 Don't need to go that extreme with the new set of wheels, so it's SQL these days for me. But yes, definitely feel the pain along the journey. 😅 As long as the ending makes us happy though, it's all worth it. Much love from Michigan, USA. 👍🏻
@@leskoaudio Yeah, I can't wait ..well technically waiting until Pssoud has them stocked......question do you have car audio training or learned seems like you are knowledgeable?
@@hvcool Thank you! I haven’t had formal training, but I’ve spent a lot of time learning and tweaking my system. I’m really passionate about car audio and want to share with the community. If there’s something specific you’re curious about or want to chat about, I’m all ears!
@@leskoaudio Nice, In the past i did the basics with no attention to SQ, but the current system is kind of... I picked out the equipment Fii0M15, HU DEX-P99RS, Alpine PDX-V9, Focal 165AS3 running 2way only (unsure mount-wise), Focal Rears, and JL W7AE (Baltic Birch Box), then had an installer put it in. Now, the next step is sounddeading so far 1 door done, then DSP, extra battery, an additional amp to run active n everything in between...maybe custom mounting the mids via pods or tweeter panels .....Always wanted to do this on my own. This will be it. learn DSP the hard way plus other things hands-on fun fun
Thanks for sharing your setup and plans! Sound deadening is definitely a great next step, and it’s awesome to hear you’re diving into DSP and going active. The DSP and custom mounted mids/tweets will be a game changer. Learning tuning can be challenge, but it's incredibly rewarding when you start to see how much control you have over your sound. I'm excited to hear how it goes!!
Looks awesome, I heard a true IB sub in a car a few days ago for the first time and now I wouldn't have it any other way! Really nice installation
How does it sound? What's the main differences to you?
@@dcole302 it goes really low, the cars I listened to picked up at 10-11hz. It gave me a proper massage. Also the physical sensations it can create are unlike anything else, in some track where the bass suddenly stops it almost feels like the entire car moves. I heard many cars with sealed enclosures for the rear subs and they also sounded great when properly installed, but a sealed sub is never going to be capable of such low end.
Thank you! Once you experience true IB, it’s hard to go back. Glad you got to hear it 🔊🔊
What sub was it?
@@jmohammed5487 the one I listened to? 15" Acoustic Elegance
I know you can't hear the actual sound through TH-cam, but we'd like a sound demo please.
That is a good idea - I’ll get proper mics to do it justice then
@@leskoaudio I second that... Would love a sound demo
Im lean more to SPL, but I have been watching a lot of SQ builds videos and started to bring some SQ practices and that always bring compliments of how my system sounds. Even though I made some mistakes when selecting amp and speakers, I'm hoping to get a job again soon to start correcting those mistakes without abandoning my SPL preference.
Thanks for sharing! Both are fun in their own right - do you have a DSP? If so, you could have multiple tunes, some loud and others for SQ
I was always spl now I I'm all about sq and can stand one note wonder setups lol
@@leskoaudio Not yet, that's the first purchase that I'll do when I get a job again.
@@ChrisAzure That makes sense, work comes first lol. Wishing you the best with the job search-if you need any advice or help with the DSP in the future, feel free to ask!
SQL BUILDS
Damm master, you got skills! 👍👍🙏🙏
A fantastic install. Man that is some crazy expensive gear the Audio Wave Excel my goodness.
Thank you!! 🔊🔊
Great video but no thanks with cutting holes on my daily driver specially on flooded rainy days😮😅
I wish I understood the ideas you were discussing concerning reproduction and placement/install types. To me, it was a different language. Phenomenal install.
Thanks so much! I know some of the concepts can get pretty technical. Let me know if you'd be interested in a breakdown of some of the concepts in the future
Beautiful setup bro. Great job
I run my Dayton planars off axis and I thought I was alone there, other than a few malaysian cats. My 10" midbass in the doors have the same problem. I have done a heroic level of door treatments and I still have buzzes on certain tracks. (SB Acoustics 10") Your underseat midbass are great. I've seen some competitors weight down their seats and add extra padding to prevent localization cues. Tungsten weights and a high temp non hardening modeling clay has worked for me in the past. When you do put a front sub in it will blow your mind. Mine took around 30 hrs to build. Worth every second. I run two 18" IB. even with time alignment; it was the devil to get it correct the way I wanted. It was a completely different sound after. Far more balanced than before. Great install brother. Subscribed. By the by, Are you on Diyma by chance? My handle is just call me KeV
Thanks for subscribing! Sounds like we’ve got a lot in common with off-axis planars and battling those midbass buzzes. I subscribed to your channel as well; you've put together a sick build and you're not messing around with your cone area. I’m looking forward to the front sub project now. Tungsten weights and non-hardening clay sound like a great approach; that’s more to add to the build list lol. You can find me on DIYMA under 'willleskowitz'
@@leskoaudio I really wanted to address the "midbass problem" in this build. Reading Lycan and Patrick's posts on diyma had me thinking a completely different way. Multiple midbass locations. I also just wanted to push the envelope as far as I could possibly go. So, I've let my imagination completely unfurl. It has been a challenging and exciting adventure.
excelente trabajo., Felicitaciones., se ve la pasion que le dedicaste a este proyecto. Exitos.
¡Gracias por tu apoyo! Me alegra que se note la dedicación que le puse
No issues at all with a lipo add? And no isolation
Suprised the ap8 worked with ib since not much xmax. Would love to hear a demo.😊😊
Glad TH-cam recommended this video to me, your other videos are really solid too. I've been brainstorming a very similar setup, apart from the AMT tweeter, however you brought up some things I hadn't considered. In my case the underseat IB midbass also seems like the best option, since I have essentially no room in the kicks on the drivers side and the doors would need custom enclosures to have any chance with them. I've been looking at 4"-5" midranges/midwoofers on the dash, not sure how that would go since my car doesn't have stock locations up there and it's gonna be tight with all the AC ducts. I have a massive cancellation with a sub in the trunk at 48-80 Hz, so the fact that a true IB sub couldn't play that high wouldn't even matter in my case I guess. Theoretically, what sort of frequency range would you play with a front sub in your setup? I would imagine that the bands for the front sub and the midbass would be pretty narrow
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you enjoyed it - the setup sounds great. Going with under-seat IB seems like the move to me. I had the same feelings about space limitations. I hear you on the larger midranges; I hope you can fit them.
That is a great question. When integrating a front sub, I'm imagining 200-80 Hz for the midbass, 80 - 40 (hopefully 30) for the front sub, and everying below for the rear sub. I am concerned about phase issues with such narrow bands, so I'm aiming for at least an octave on each.
Thank you for sharing your awesome install. How does the dash behave as far as rattling etc ?
The dash had some problems with rattling initially. The small side vents that aim at the windows particularly had annoying buzzes, but I’ve been able to treat them. Front sub might reveal some more though. The doors and rear deck are far more problematic for rattles
Great video, thank you. I'm sure a dumb question, how much audio plays outside volume wise with your IB for the mid bass and your sub? Are they loud enough to bother people when your parked or driving? Is like the motorcycle stereos that just scream when parked.. sorry if this is a bad question
That’s a great question - it is surely louder than sealed, but it’s quieter than I expected. It is not like the motorcycles because only under 200 Hz is playing outside, so it’s mostly muffled bass. You do have to be mindful. I’d like to test this in the future, thanks for the idea 🔊🔊
My friend you have a quality built right there... I Will love to listen to your System one day. One question can you please provide me with information where can I get the foam for the infinite baffle. Thank you
thanks! here are a few options that I've used
1) Pre Filter Sheet, 12x12 in, Cut-To-Fit, Polyester, Black, Each a.co/d/4p6yvm0
2) Universal Water Resistant Hydrophobic Speaker Grill Fabric Material a.co/d/3wZH6Wq
3) Speaker Grill Foam 1/4” x 48" x 120" (HxWxL) Dry Fast Reticulated Foam a.co/d/bSGoomP
I use 3) Dryfast Speaker Grill foam to act as the first barrier between dust and any splashed water from outside. It works well alone, but is not explicitly hydrophobic. Then, you can layer 1) or 2) on top as the true hydrophobic barrier if needed.
1) and 2) also work well for replacing ventilation flaps that rattle with bass with another water barrier rather than sealing them up and causing humidity problems!
@@leskoaudio thank you for your help.
How do you charge the battery?
Hi, why you’re not using this AMT’s as your main tweeter?
Hello! I’m not sure what you mean - they are my main tweeters. The soft domes aren’t running; I’m just too lazy to remove them lol
I notice that battery is only rated for 50A discharge. Are you mainly using it for longer engine off playing?
Thanks for that observation! I use it for power reserve for my dash cam, tuning, and competitions. I typically don’t listen to music with the engine off myself.
question why have 3 fuse power blocks? possible to explain the wiring for that? I would have thought one fuse block with 2 IN 4 OUT will be sufficient to connect the batteries, amps, n dsps?
That is a good observation - they are mainly for future expansion. Currently, I'm using 1 for the DSP, 2 for amps, and 1 for a relay/BT. The other four are for 2 upcoming amps for the front sub and rear fill, 1 for LEDs, and 1 more for external charging. The INs are all gobbled up by the batteries and connecting the two blocks. Edit: additional info/clarity
hai..buatlah video tutorial tuning menggunakan smaart suite.
Hai! Terima kasih untuk sarannya. Saya akan pertimbangkan untuk membuat video tutorial tuning menggunakan Smaart Suite di masa depan. Stay tuned!
perfect.
Appreciate it! 😎
Not bad
My guy... $1200+ on an amp for 2x110w just begs for the term "rip-off". 😅 LoL, I digress, but glad you like your system! I'm sure many of us would love to have one like it!
😂 I get where you're coming from! The numbers climb quickly in this hobby lol - this is my dream setup, and I have no regrets although my pocket does. It's definitely been a fun project, and I appreciate the support!
@@leskoaudio LoL. Oh, I know about the numbers... Had a 28k watt system in my previous vehicle that the motor and transmission gave out on mere months after the equipment installation had finished. 😒 Don't need to go that extreme with the new set of wheels, so it's SQL these days for me. But yes, definitely feel the pain along the journey. 😅 As long as the ending makes us happy though, it's all worth it. Much love from Michigan, USA. 👍🏻
Eventually, my rookie self will do a build, technically a rebuild of what I have alreaDY ---I am actually Waiting on thoseAMT's
You’re in for a treat then! I’m not sure how easy it will be to go back to domes now that I have AMTs lol
@@leskoaudio Yeah, I can't wait ..well technically waiting until Pssoud has them stocked......question do you have car audio training or learned seems like you are knowledgeable?
@@hvcool Thank you! I haven’t had formal training, but I’ve spent a lot of time learning and tweaking my system. I’m really passionate about car audio and want to share with the community. If there’s something specific you’re curious about or want to chat about, I’m all ears!
@@leskoaudio Nice, In the past i did the basics with no attention to SQ, but the current system is kind of... I picked out the equipment Fii0M15, HU DEX-P99RS, Alpine PDX-V9, Focal 165AS3 running 2way only (unsure mount-wise), Focal Rears, and JL W7AE (Baltic Birch Box), then had an installer put it in. Now, the next step is sounddeading so far 1 door done, then DSP, extra battery, an additional amp to run active n everything in between...maybe custom mounting the mids via pods or tweeter panels .....Always wanted to do this on my own. This will be it. learn DSP the hard way plus other things hands-on fun fun
Thanks for sharing your setup and plans! Sound deadening is definitely a great next step, and it’s awesome to hear you’re diving into DSP and going active. The DSP and custom mounted mids/tweets will be a game changer. Learning tuning can be challenge, but it's incredibly rewarding when you start to see how much control you have over your sound. I'm excited to hear how it goes!!
No demo ?
Not yet, but it’s on the agenda
I see rust coming
Where are you speaker that are coming from the back of you head ???????????????????