How I do it: Pick your aperture desired; ISO, and shoot in Aperture or Manual mode. Determine a normal exposure; from a "Normal" exposure of the background, REDUCE -1 stop. (darkens background). Add Flash as needed for foreground subject illumination. Remember kids: Shutter speed determines the Ambient light levels; the F/stop+flash determines the foreground illumination. THINK of shots as TWO elements, two "plates": a foreground and a background. Expose for the background, Flash for the foreground.
From the beginning, when you’re explaining about the constant light in the room I knew it’s the right place for straight & simple way of explanation is coming 🙏👍🏽
How do you determine the power of a flash, and what would be the minimum strength for outdoor use? Thank you for the videos. The way you explain things it makes sense. I have watched other peoples videos and ended up more confused than before watching.
Thanks so much! You have to look at the mfg specs. Larger flashes are rated in watt-seconds. For outdoor use in my opinion you need at least 100ws preferably 200 or more.
I've been studying and struggling for over a year tying to get my head around flash. I watched 2 of your videos on and off camera flash. I have the same godox and same trigger using Panasonic. This was helpful in many ways. Thank you.
Use the background exp set in manual ( minus 1 stop exp) now take a few test flashes in manual untill its exposed well ,this lifts your suject makes them stand out better , and is accurate every time ,# auto isnt consistant ; manual is very consistant ,
What I do not understand is why doesn't TTL flash work for this. For example, let's say I want to darken the ambient light and make the face stand out with the flash while I am in automatic mode. I can set the ambient let to underexpose by two stops. With my flash in TTL mode I can set the flash anywhere between two stops under and two stops over. It seems to me that the camera, while in TTL mode receives the distance from the flash to the subject with the pre-flash. I have underexposed the ambient by two stops and I have set the flash to neutral ( in the middle of the two stops over or under screen). When I take the shot, using TTL, I do not get anything like when I do it manually. In fact, changing the flash output doesn't seem to make any difference at all. Yet, as I said there is a way to change the ambient in automatic mode and a way to separately change the flash output in automatic mode. Being able to use TTL with these effects would be very handy if the subject is not stationary. Any ideas?
Put the camera in aperture priority mode. Expose for the background. Take note of the shutter speed. Put the camera in manual mode and set the same aperture and shutter speed. Add enough flash to properly expose the subject. That's it.
I shoot hockey teams on ice (team photo) and use two Godox AD200 with my Canon R7. Any suggestions on best way to set up that lighting to maximize the off flash without blowing out the players and creating lots of shadows or bright faces? I have a Sigma 18-35 1.8 and 70-200 2.8 lens (nothing else in the budget at this time). Time is limited on the ice as shots done during practice so curious if any quick method to setting flash power to a good starting point. Arena lights are tricky as some are nice bright LED while the older arenas are like barns with bad lighting.
in 4:20 you said 45 degrees and slightly above subject. What about the sun direction ? placements of the lights should only stay 45 degrees? There aren't youtube tutorials that explains where should I place my lights and most of youtubers speaks about this 45 degree rule.
good video: however you need to finish the project. You said to underexpose your backround subject, but you didnt show how you got the flash power level nor how its adjusted. I can assume it has to be bright enought to light the face but how did you get your flash power level?
Good question…here are steps that can be used: 1) Set your desired background exposure level in manual mode. You can find this with test shots in an automatic mode. Choose aperture for desired depth of field, and ensure shutter speed is at or slower than your flash sync speed (FSS). FSS varies by camera body; my A6400 is 1/160 of a second and my A9 is 1/250 of a second. 2) Turn on your flash and set any power level; try 1/4 or 1/8 for starters. 3) Take a test shot with your subject in the frame. Adjust the flash power. The flash power will need to increase if the subject is too dark (underexposed), or the power will need to decrease if the subject is too bright (overexposed). Note the background exposure will stay consistent as long as the ambient light is consistent. 4) Repeat step 3 until you find the desired flash power for your subject. Note that exposure triangle comes into play to balance the settings. Cameras with faster FSS and more powerful flash units give you more flexibility to handle challenging conditions. HTH.
Interesting. I am just an amateur hobbyist getting back into photography after many moons. Good (basic I guess) exposure triangle knowledge to feel comfortable in manual (using ambient light). OK, I spend most of my time in FV mode on a Canon as I am not so confident to react quickly enough, always, I feel. Learning Flash is on my knowledge expansion list. It does seem a subject that can get almost as emotive as discussing politics and religion at the same time watching a few YT videos. Anyway, you don't beat about the bush and talk sense - I thank you for that. Subscribed having now watched a couple of your vids.
Off camera flash SHOULD be easy for the photographer - I hope this video helps simplify the concept for you.
How I do it: Pick your aperture desired; ISO, and shoot in Aperture or Manual mode. Determine a normal exposure; from a "Normal" exposure of the background, REDUCE -1 stop. (darkens background). Add Flash as needed for foreground subject illumination. Remember kids: Shutter speed determines the Ambient light levels; the F/stop+flash determines the foreground illumination. THINK of shots as TWO elements, two "plates": a foreground and a background. Expose for the background, Flash for the foreground.
I gotta admit it, i didn't think i was learning anything until i arrived here! Thank you!
From the beginning, when you’re explaining about the constant light in the room
I knew it’s the right place for straight & simple way of explanation is coming 🙏👍🏽
Thank you so much!
Your are the best love the way you teach thank you
Thanks so much!
This is the best explanation ever
Thank you so much for this. Tons of value.
How do you determine the power of a flash, and what would be the minimum strength for outdoor use?
Thank you for the videos. The way you explain things it makes sense. I have watched other peoples videos and ended up more confused than before watching.
Thanks so much!
You have to look at the mfg specs. Larger flashes are rated in watt-seconds. For outdoor use in my opinion you need at least 100ws preferably 200 or more.
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk Thanks
I've been studying and struggling for over a year tying to get my head around flash. I watched 2 of your videos on and off camera flash. I have the same godox and same trigger using Panasonic. This was helpful in many ways. Thank you.
Glad to hear it!
Use the background exp set in manual ( minus 1 stop exp) now take a few test flashes in manual untill its exposed well ,this lifts your suject makes them stand out better , and is accurate every time ,# auto isnt consistant ; manual is very consistant ,
Great tip! thank you! love your videos, new follower :)
Thanks for watching!
Didn't realize meters were expensive. Thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching!
What microphone are you using? Your voice sounds brilliant.
Just a rode micro👍
What I do not understand is why doesn't TTL flash work for this. For example, let's say I want to darken the ambient light and make the face stand out with the flash while I am in automatic mode.
I can set the ambient let to underexpose by two stops. With my flash in TTL mode I can set the flash anywhere between two stops under and two stops over.
It seems to me that the camera, while in TTL mode receives the distance from the flash to the subject with the pre-flash. I have underexposed the ambient by two stops and I have set the flash to neutral ( in the middle of the two stops over or under screen).
When I take the shot, using TTL, I do not get anything like when I do it manually. In fact, changing the flash output doesn't seem to make any difference at all.
Yet, as I said there is a way to change the ambient in automatic mode and a way to separately change the flash output in automatic mode.
Being able to use TTL with these effects would be very handy if the subject is not stationary.
Any ideas?
Put the camera in aperture priority mode. Expose for the background. Take note of the shutter speed. Put the camera in manual mode and set the same aperture and shutter speed. Add enough flash to properly expose the subject. That's it.
I shoot hockey teams on ice (team photo) and use two Godox AD200 with my Canon R7. Any suggestions on best way to set up that lighting to maximize the off flash without blowing out the players and creating lots of shadows or bright faces? I have a Sigma 18-35 1.8 and 70-200 2.8 lens (nothing else in the budget at this time).
Time is limited on the ice as shots done during practice so curious if any quick method to setting flash power to a good starting point.
Arena lights are tricky as some are nice bright LED while the older arenas are like barns with bad lighting.
Top guy a brew and straight to the point
in 4:20 you said 45 degrees and slightly above subject. What about the sun direction ? placements of the lights should only stay 45 degrees? There aren't youtube tutorials that explains where should I place my lights and most of youtubers speaks about this 45 degree rule.
good video: however you need to finish the project. You said to underexpose your backround subject, but you didnt show how you got the flash power level nor how its adjusted. I can assume it has to be bright enought to light the face but how did you get your flash power level?
Good question…here are steps that can be used: 1) Set your desired background exposure level in manual mode. You can find this with test shots in an automatic mode. Choose aperture for desired depth of field, and ensure shutter speed is at or slower than your flash sync speed (FSS). FSS varies by camera body; my A6400 is 1/160 of a second and my A9 is 1/250 of a second. 2) Turn on your flash and set any power level; try 1/4 or 1/8 for starters. 3) Take a test shot with your subject in the frame. Adjust the flash power. The flash power will need to increase if the subject is too dark (underexposed), or the power will need to decrease if the subject is too bright (overexposed). Note the background exposure will stay consistent as long as the ambient light is consistent. 4) Repeat step 3 until you find the desired flash power for your subject. Note that exposure triangle comes into play to balance the settings. Cameras with faster FSS and more powerful flash units give you more flexibility to handle challenging conditions. HTH.
@@DonHuff Thank you it give it a try
Interesting. I am just an amateur hobbyist getting back into photography after many moons. Good (basic I guess) exposure triangle knowledge to feel comfortable in manual (using ambient light). OK, I spend most of my time in FV mode on a Canon as I am not so confident to react quickly enough, always, I feel. Learning Flash is on my knowledge expansion list. It does seem a subject that can get almost as emotive as discussing politics and religion at the same time watching a few YT videos. Anyway, you don't beat about the bush and talk sense - I thank you for that. Subscribed having now watched a couple of your vids.
Thanks for watching!
good video. it aint rocket science right
I can't get my flash to flash in the first place. So I just shine a flashlight in the person's face. Done!
I will be honest this video did not teach me anything but impatience 😂
Thanks.