Where color noise comes from is a really interesting story in itself. It requires an even deeper dive into the physics of how the sensor works, along with the computational trickery that takes place in the camera's processor to turn the sensor data into a color image.
I've always had a good understanding of exposure, signal-to-noise ratios and histograms before, but this is the best explanation I've ever come across. I am going to save this link and if I ever run into someone who is having a hard time understanding these things, I will refer them here. Always.....thank you, Simon!!
The best thing to happen to my photography hobby was getting my first dslr. Finding this channel has been a very close second. Thanks for all your videos!
In 5 minutes, I learned and understood more about this then I ever knew! Your explanations, examples , and clear teaching style is simply best in class! Thanks for demystifying a complex subject!
Seen so many videos about ETTR but never really understood ’the why’ until now. Once again you are teaching an old dog new tricks! Please keep up the great work 👏👏👏
Hi Simon, you gave great explanations and showed how to Expose To The Right. This bit was my favourite when you said, when you captured the Brighter image, you Frozen the Noise Profile of that photo, so when you Darken it again it stays at where you captured it. And including to use Exposure Compensation as well was so helpful to me. I knew about ETTR but didn't fully understand why, And I'm happy that I understood your explanation. A very important thing I learned today that will make a difference in my photography. Much appreciated Simon. 😊
I wasnt sure about using the exposure compensation as that could increase ISO whereas he mentioned the only way to get more light on your sensor was through shutter speed and aperture
Wow... This was so clear. You have a gift of teaching. In 9 minutes you have given many of us more confidence in using the histogram and understanding our control over noise. Thank you!!
This is awesome. I remember when digital SLRs first started being affordable and popular. It was recommended to under expose 1/3-2/3 stops to get deeper and richer color.
Thanks for this helpfut tip. I was out taking holiday lights out side and was greatly upset with the amount of noise. I will be going back out to reshoot those shots.
Thanks Simon. This is the best instructional video I have ever seen. Perfect in every way - focus, structure, content, pace, duration, balance of theory and practice.
That’s because Simone looks at the technical side of photography and explained it in the most simplest manner. He’s one of the best teachers ever. I love his videos. He just taught me so much.
Hi and Thank You Simon d'Entremont! When I look at photos on photographic websites, lately I've been seeing some that I think have noise artificially added. When enlarged, the noise pattern is very even, colorless, and the same intensity in the bright areas of the photo as in the dark areas.
Great explanation of ETTR. It's worth remembering that the histogram you're looking at is calculated from the JPEG embedded in the raw file. That matters because that embedded JPEG is produced with the settings you have set for JPEGs coming straight out of the camera, so if you've got that set to 'super vibrant' or something your histogram will be lying to you. Pick settings that output a flat looking JPEG. I've experimented with color balances that get my histogram closer to what's actually in that raw data. It works, but the review picture on the back panel looks greenish. Also, if I'm in a situation where there are a few light areas in an overall dim scene I turn auto-ISO off, set the ISO fairly low so the multiplication that happens at readout doesn't blow those areas out.
Simon - by far the best explanation of ETTR and use cases. I was recently shooting Bald Eagles and was struggling with the white feathers from being blown out which is further complicated because reviews of the 200-800 indicate that this lens is prone to blowing out the highlights. Thx again - your channel is my favorite
Great video with good, clear explanations. Times are changed: ETTR is exactly the opposite we usually did in the old time of transparencies: we were used to lower exposure a bit to gain much more saturated colors. 😄
หลายเดือนก่อน +1
I didn't know about this until now. You are an outstanding professor who presents the material perfectly clearly and concisely. Thank you very much.
I have been doing a little of the opposite I have been so worried about not being a to recover blown out highlights that I always under expose a little. Now I have a better idea when I should do both. Thank you.
"Will all of this make you a better photographer?" Maybe not, but it's definitely the icing on the cake, which ultimately improves the overall quality of your photos. Improving many small margins goes a long way to accumulate ones work. I'll take anything I can get, especially from you. Great informational video, Simon 😊Even though as a relatively new photographer myself, your videos can at times be a bit technical and might reqiure a few replays.
How interesting, i had never heard of this technique. i find I often shoot at higher iso and now, at least in some cases, there will be less noise. Thanks
My Canon 6D tends to underexpose, so this is a fantastic reminder to ETTR with way more exposure compensation than I even had before. Thanks, Simon. Excellent video. *Thank you*
Your videos help so much and you do it so well to get this under ten minutes. I cannot fully express how invaluable your videos are. Thanks as ever Simon.
Simon is an excellent explainer! In the film era, I was amazed to see how my journo-style photos improved when I began (a) shooting most things at 1/500 or faster, and (b) learned what created a negative with less grain and better tonal range and separation. In film, the same rules apply, but it's ETTL - expose to the left, i.e. expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Boring tech: to get wonderful prints with a wide range of subjects on the same roll of Tri-X, expose at ISO 200 and develop in Rodinal 1:50 for 5 min at 68F with 5/30 agitation. The nice, flat neg printed beautifully on #4 paper. A secret of the film era was that high-contrast paper produces much less grain than longer film development times. Sadly, I learned this shortly before photography went digital, but what a joy it was to realize that ETTR was the same thing, only backwards. Hah! Ansel Adams is smiling in his grave.
Hello Simon thank you so much! I was wondering how to get my images less noisy and better quality and here you are explaining that issue and wow here you are giving that best tips and tricks helping me understand every detail, thank you so much as always keep going you're doing great as always! 👍🏻
Thank you sir! This was an excellent and highly appreciated demonstration. You've simply cleared up an area of my photography where I had been struggling with. I'm an 80 year old new photographer and you have never failed to teach this 'old dog' something new in each and every one of your lectures. Again, thank you.
Thank you for another well taught lesson. ETTR makes so much sense; I have made changes to my Canon and can hardly wait to see how the next batch of photos look.
Thank you so much for this video and explanation. I was aware of ETTR, but about "over"exposing by lowering the shutterspeed or opening up the aperture and not the iso.
Simon, I really appreciate the way that you convey information - and that you share your vast experience with us on youtube. You have certainly helped to improve my skills, thank you!
My photography journey begun about a year ago and this channel has been my best go to resource when it comes to photography concepts. I am so happy to see that the number of subscribers has nearly double since I started as a subscriber. The most complicated concepts are explained by Simon in a way that the even the slowest person will understand it.
Fantastic advice Simon. I use the histogram all the time when processing shots and the difference it makes is amazing. Off course taking good "clean" shots helps but sometimes in the heat of things with the camera, it is all too easy to forget and fire and rely on your own instincts to be confident you "got the shot" with how you have the camera set up when used. At least in the post process stage there may be another chance to balance the shot out, but, if the image is clipped and too far into the dark or light, well, nothing can be done but try to salvage something or hit the trusted delete button. Lesson learned... hopefully. 🙂
I am absolutely giving this method a try this weekend on my shooting adventure! Thank you for putting in the time creating these extremely helpful videos for us!!
I have done this by accident. So glad to see proper instruction on your methods. You are so very helpful and I have learned so much more by following you then any other way! I learned about the histogram by your lessons.
I learnt ETTR years ago and have always leaned that way with pretty much every shot since. I wasn’t aware quite how dramatic the difference in colour noise was though! Also, one of my favourite features of my OM1.2 is live blinkies, so you can see them even before you press the shutter. I’m sure other brands must offer it too, but it’s so useful, especially in challenging lighting conditions.
Thank you for clear explanation. I stumpled upon this technique a year ago, and I wasn't sure how it works . But I tried It anyway and my images are at least one level up in quality :) I use micro-four-thirds camera, which is very sensitive to amount of light hitting the sensor. Now I "fill it up" and I always have more data for postprocessing. I can sometimes make an HDR from one shot - by lowering highlightes for proper exposure, and lifting shadows - which now have less noise than in normal shooting technique. Not perfect Full Frame experience but for amateur photography - that is good enough. Cheers :)
Thank you so much for this video! I just got my first camera and have been going out to practice, and I accidentally left my ISO too high for the light conditions when I took some nice photos. When I came home, I realized that my photos were super noisy, and initially got confused because the ISO wasn’t THAT high. However, based on your previous videos, I wondered if it was because my shutter speed was also way too high due to the high ISO. Now, from this video, I can see that my hunch was correct! :) I love how clear and well-composed the information in your videos is, it really feels like every second is a learning experience. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge.
Thank you for this excellent description of how to expose. This might be too complicated for some, but the response of modern sensors is linear: twice the photons in equals almost twice the signal from the sensor, plus some noise. Film was not as linear, so you not only had to avoid clipping but you couldn't deliberately underexpose or the colors and textures wouldn't have that "film" look that people expected. Also, if you do your processing in Lightroom, it is set up to do an old trick from Ansel Adams. There are sliders to set a white point and a black point. There are then sliders to allocate the dynamic range between highlights, middle tones, and shadows.
Feels like this video is posted just at the right time, as I was finding recent photos to turn out very noisy despite having tried other options. Extremely useful information! Definitely gonna try it next trip out and about!
I did an experiment following the ETTR on the gfx100s in raw. And yes the ETTER ( two stops overexposed) version has less noise as evidently comes out brighter. However, I noticed a significant drop in the dynamic range of this in post production,. Once I adjusted the ETTR version to a correct exposure, the lightroom adjustments, shadow and black handles, were maxed out before I could get the same satisfying result, as the normally exposed. If shadows are recorded too bright, it seems there is less dynamic range to pull from in the shadows.So for me, this is a give and take method.
This could be another video itself. The effects of clipping individual color channels (causing colors casts) will not necessarily cause highlight alerts.
I started shooting film in high school in the mid-'60s and continued until I retired. Recently, after years of fighting it tooth and nail, I bought a digital camera (Nikon Zf) that gave me the feel of manual shooting back in the day of film-sort of. After watching several of your videos, this one gave me the needed epiphany. I was struggling with ISO and the histogram. I've seen the light! ETTR is the ticket! Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
For clarification purposes, allow me to explain my "wrestling" with ISO in my comment above (lest everyone takes me for a dunce). The term ASA (American Standards Association), referring to the film's "speed," was officially replaced by ISO (International Organization for Standardization) in 1974. This change was an effort to harmonize international standards for film sensitivity. The ISO system combined ASA and the German DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung) ratings into a unified scale for better global consistency. Thanks again, Simon, for your clear and concise explanation.
Yes...I have to echo the others who are writing that this was the best explanation of ETTR that I have seen. The kudo's you are getting here in the comments are well deserved!!!
That was a masterclass of explanation, you made a potentially difficult and confusing subject, easy and straightforward to understand, thank you for video.
What a great tutorial and I'll definitely start experimenting with ETTR for sure. Excellent theory and explanation throughout this tutorial! Thank you-Merci!!
So good! Even though I know the rationale behind ETR, I found this video extremely informative because of the back to basics approach, and, you didn't mention bracketing once! So big thanks for such a well presented topic. I'm a real fanboy.
This was fantastic, Simon. I started watching thinking you have covered this many times before, but as usual, you have added some great nuances to build on the previous topics.
That is exposing to the left to preserve highlights and then bring up the shadows, useful as well especially for shooting on the go and get more contrasty images. ETTR on the other hand gives you max info on your raw file, for a given scene, to play around.
your previous ETTR tought me a lot , after many of your video I think myself a better amateur photographer than before. thanks for sharing your tips n tricks
Thanks, a great video. I always keep my histogram at least 2 stops to the left of bright. The histogram is a jpg representation of the image, and tends to overexpose. My experience with Canon cameras is that it is easier to recover the dark areas than the bright.
![Overrated: Camera features that don't matter [ft Gerald Undone]](/img/n.gif)
I am calling you “The Professor” from now on, I now understand what exposing to right means and I had no clue what colour noise was! Thank you.
That was exactly my thought too! I'll call him also Professor from now on! 😉
Thanks!
If he is the professor, who is hot sauce?
Where color noise comes from is a really interesting story in itself. It requires an even deeper dive into the physics of how the sensor works, along with the computational trickery that takes place in the camera's processor to turn the sensor data into a color image.
SECONDED!
This is, by far, the simplest and best explanation of ETTR I’ve ever watched or read. Your style of teaching is simply amazing. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks! Thats really a good explanation!
Brilliant! Your explanation and delivery are over the top. I'm learning so much. Thank you.
I've always had a good understanding of exposure, signal-to-noise ratios and histograms before, but this is the best explanation I've ever come across. I am going to save this link and if I ever run into someone who is having a hard time understanding these things, I will refer them here.
Always.....thank you, Simon!!
Glad it was helpful!
The best thing to happen to my photography hobby was getting my first dslr. Finding this channel has been a very close second. Thanks for all your videos!
So glad you're enjoying the content!
In 5 minutes, I learned and understood more about this then I ever knew! Your explanations, examples , and clear teaching style is simply best in class! Thanks for demystifying a complex subject!
Even if your video is not my mother language , you speak slowly, clearly and I understand you perfectly. Great tuto. Thank you. Merci
Seen so many videos about ETTR but never really understood ’the why’ until now. Once again you are teaching an old dog new tricks! Please keep up the great work 👏👏👏
Happy to help!
Hi Simon, you gave great explanations and showed how to Expose To The Right. This bit was my favourite when you said, when you captured the Brighter image, you Frozen the Noise Profile of that photo, so when you Darken it again it stays at where you captured it. And including to use Exposure Compensation as well was so helpful to me. I knew about ETTR but didn't fully understand why, And I'm happy that I understood your explanation. A very important thing I learned today that will make a difference in my photography. Much appreciated Simon. 😊
Thanks Simon 😊
I wasnt sure about using the exposure compensation as that could increase ISO whereas he mentioned the only way to get more light on your sensor was through shutter speed and aperture
@j2thebee 📸👍
This is the best class in ETTR that I have seen, Simon...great work. Thanks for making us better photographers.
I'd heard of the term, but this totally clarified it, thank you so much!
Wow... This was so clear. You have a gift of teaching. In 9 minutes you have given many of us more confidence in using the histogram and understanding our control over noise. Thank you!!
Best explanation of exposing to the right!! The "why" always helps to understand the "what".
This is actually very interesting and clearly explained.
This is awesome.
I remember when digital SLRs first started being affordable and popular. It was recommended to under expose 1/3-2/3 stops to get deeper and richer color.
Thanks for this helpfut tip. I was out taking holiday lights out side and was greatly upset with the amount of noise. I will be going back out to reshoot those shots.
Thanks Simon. This is the best instructional video I have ever seen. Perfect in every way - focus, structure, content, pace, duration, balance of theory and practice.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you! This is by far the best video on ETTR that I have ever seen. I cannot wait to try this out.
This is a perfect explanation of how to "embrace your highlights"! Thank you, Simon!
That short video gave me so much information I can’t thank you enough. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thoroughly enjoyed this one. I swear your videos are one of the few I find myself rewinding rather than skipping ahead! Thanks so much for the tips!
Glad you like them!
Thanks a lot. I tracked this down during various photo exercises in nature and now I see that it has a name and a definition 👌 great video as always.
Wonderful!
That’s because Simone looks at the technical side of photography and explained it in the most simplest manner. He’s one of the best teachers ever. I love his videos. He just taught me so much.
I really appreciate that!
Hi and Thank You Simon d'Entremont! When I look at photos on photographic websites, lately I've been seeing some that I think have noise artificially added. When enlarged, the noise pattern is very even, colorless, and the same intensity in the bright areas of the photo as in the dark areas.
Great explanation of ETTR. It's worth remembering that the histogram you're looking at is calculated from the JPEG embedded in the raw file. That matters because that embedded JPEG is produced with the settings you have set for JPEGs coming straight out of the camera, so if you've got that set to 'super vibrant' or something your histogram will be lying to you. Pick settings that output a flat looking JPEG.
I've experimented with color balances that get my histogram closer to what's actually in that raw data. It works, but the review picture on the back panel looks greenish.
Also, if I'm in a situation where there are a few light areas in an overall dim scene I turn auto-ISO off, set the ISO fairly low so the multiplication that happens at readout doesn't blow those areas out.
Simon - by far the best explanation of ETTR and use cases. I was recently shooting Bald Eagles and was struggling with the white feathers from being blown out which is further complicated because reviews of the 200-800 indicate that this lens is prone to blowing out the highlights. Thx again - your channel is my favorite
One of the most helpful videos I have watched on exposure.
Great video with good, clear explanations.
Times are changed: ETTR is exactly the opposite we usually did in the old time of transparencies: we were used to lower exposure a bit to gain much more saturated colors. 😄
I didn't know about this until now. You are an outstanding professor who presents the material perfectly clearly and concisely. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
...you dig deep into every subject and gain a lot of knowledge and consequently a lot of clarity for us in the shadows...
Expose to the right. That's definitely something useful I didn't know! Thanks, Simon!
I have been doing a little of the opposite I have been so worried about not being a to recover blown out highlights that I always under expose a little. Now I have a better idea when I should do both. Thank you.
Now I understand the benefits. Thank you so much for the detailed explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you a "super sharp" lesson on noise and exposures...👏👏👏
Simon, Quite simply the best explanation of ettr I have seen. Now, not only will I be ettr’ing, but I will know why!
Thank you
Learning something new (to me) today. Happy times. Thank you, Simon.
My pleasure!
Quite possibly the most informing channel on TH-cam. Simon is a BEAST!!! You're awesome man! I thoroughly enjoy your videos!
"Will all of this make you a better photographer?" Maybe not, but it's definitely the icing on the cake, which ultimately improves the overall quality of your photos. Improving many small margins goes a long way to accumulate ones work. I'll take anything I can get, especially from you. Great informational video, Simon 😊Even though as a relatively new photographer myself, your videos can at times be a bit technical and might reqiure a few replays.
How interesting, i had never heard of this technique. i find I often shoot at higher iso and now, at least in some cases, there will be less noise. Thanks
this is awesome, i love how your videos show you actually using the camera and demonstrating
This video is gold 🏆 Big thanks for explaining the technicalities of ETTR and how to use it practically in the real world.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for explaining to to use the histogram - my vague notion has been clarified and I will work within the ETTR opportunities that arise.
This is, by far, the simplest and best explanation
Hands down, best instructor on all things photography on YT! Thank you!
Thanks!
My Canon 6D tends to underexpose, so this is a fantastic reminder to ETTR with way more exposure compensation than I even had before. Thanks, Simon. Excellent video. *Thank you*
Your videos help so much and you do it so well to get this under ten minutes. I cannot fully express how invaluable your videos are. Thanks as ever Simon.
You're so welcome!
Simon is an excellent explainer! In the film era, I was amazed to see how my journo-style photos improved when I began (a) shooting most things at 1/500 or faster, and (b) learned what created a negative with less grain and better tonal range and separation. In film, the same rules apply, but it's ETTL - expose to the left, i.e. expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Boring tech: to get wonderful prints with a wide range of subjects on the same roll of Tri-X, expose at ISO 200 and develop in Rodinal 1:50 for 5 min at 68F with 5/30 agitation. The nice, flat neg printed beautifully on #4 paper. A secret of the film era was that high-contrast paper produces much less grain than longer film development times. Sadly, I learned this shortly before photography went digital, but what a joy it was to realize that ETTR was the same thing, only backwards. Hah! Ansel Adams is smiling in his grave.
Hello Simon thank you so much! I was wondering how to get my images less noisy and better quality and here you are explaining that issue and wow here you are giving that best tips and tricks helping me understand every detail, thank you so much as always keep going you're doing great as always! 👍🏻
Love it, been doing this for years...such a helpful piece of information with regards to how digital differs from analog! Thanks as always Simon!
Glad you’re finding it useful!
I’m new to photography and I’m always learning something new every time I watch your videos. You’re amazing, thank you 🙌🏻👌🏻😁🙏
I've learned so much from you. Thank you for your content 🙏🏾
Thank you sir! This was an excellent and highly appreciated demonstration. You've simply cleared up an area of my photography where I had been struggling with. I'm an 80 year old new photographer and you have never failed to teach this 'old dog' something new in each and every one of your lectures. Again, thank you.
I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you for another well taught lesson. ETTR makes so much sense; I have made changes to my Canon and can hardly wait to see how the next batch of photos look.
I hope you're thrilled with the results!
Outstanding information I have never heard before.
Thank you so much for this video and explanation. I was aware of ETTR, but about "over"exposing by lowering the shutterspeed or opening up the aperture and not the iso.
Simon, I really appreciate the way that you convey information - and that you share your vast experience with us on youtube. You have certainly helped to improve my skills, thank you!
I appreciate that!
My photography journey begun about a year ago and this channel has been my best go to resource when it comes to photography concepts. I am so happy to see that the number of subscribers has nearly double since I started as a subscriber. The most complicated concepts are explained by Simon in a way that the even the slowest person will understand it.
Thanks for the kind words and for being part of the journey!
Thank you Simon. This is probably the best video I have ever seen to talk about ETTR.
Fantastic advice Simon. I use the histogram all the time when processing shots and the difference it makes is amazing. Off course taking good "clean" shots helps but sometimes in the heat of things with the camera, it is all too easy to forget and fire and rely on your own instincts to be confident you "got the shot" with how you have the camera set up when used. At least in the post process stage there may be another chance to balance the shot out, but, if the image is clipped and too far into the dark or light, well, nothing can be done but try to salvage something or hit the trusted delete button. Lesson learned... hopefully. 🙂
U r so intelligent n informative. It's awesome how u always share all of your knowledge so eloquently.
I’m glad you like it!
Wow, just tried that and what a difference. This has been a lightbulb moment. Subscribed
Brilliant video thank you, your explanations and techniques are priceless..
You are very welcome
I am absolutely giving this method a try this weekend on my shooting adventure! Thank you for putting in the time creating these extremely helpful videos for us!!
Have fun!
I have done this by accident. So glad to see proper instruction on your methods. You are so very helpful and I have learned so much more by following you then any other way! I learned about the histogram by your lessons.
Happy to help!
@@simon_dentremont You are amazing! Thank you so much.
You just won a new subscriber. Wish everyone would explain as nice as you do. Thanks "professor"! ;)
Monsieur d'Entremont, you are the best. Thanks for making these great videos.
I learnt ETTR years ago and have always leaned that way with pretty much every shot since. I wasn’t aware quite how dramatic the difference in colour noise was though!
Also, one of my favourite features of my OM1.2 is live blinkies, so you can see them even before you press the shutter. I’m sure other brands must offer it too, but it’s so useful, especially in challenging lighting conditions.
Fantastic detailed explanation Simon. Thank you for taking the the time to share.🙏
Thank you for clear explanation. I stumpled upon this technique a year ago, and I wasn't sure how it works . But I tried It anyway and my images are at least one level up in quality :) I use micro-four-thirds camera, which is very sensitive to amount of light hitting the sensor. Now I "fill it up" and I always have more data for postprocessing. I can sometimes make an HDR from one shot - by lowering highlightes for proper exposure, and lifting shadows - which now have less noise than in normal shooting technique. Not perfect Full Frame experience but for amateur photography - that is good enough.
Cheers :)
Thanks Simon, for explaining so clearly. Greatly appreciated!
Your videos are so reminiscent of my engineering days! Very nice explanations Simon!
Best explanation I’ve seen of this subject, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Oh ding! A real lightbulb moment! Literally and metaphorically. Thank you so much Simon!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you so much for this video! I just got my first camera and have been going out to practice, and I accidentally left my ISO too high for the light conditions when I took some nice photos. When I came home, I realized that my photos were super noisy, and initially got confused because the ISO wasn’t THAT high. However, based on your previous videos, I wondered if it was because my shutter speed was also way too high due to the high ISO. Now, from this video, I can see that my hunch was correct! :)
I love how clear and well-composed the information in your videos is, it really feels like every second is a learning experience. Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge.
Glad to hear it clicked!
Thank You Simon, I'll go and try those tips...was wondering about noise issue... Thanks ❤️😃
Thank you for this excellent description of how to expose. This might be too complicated for some, but the response of modern sensors is linear: twice the photons in equals almost twice the signal from the sensor, plus some noise. Film was not as linear, so you not only had to avoid clipping but you couldn't deliberately underexpose or the colors and textures wouldn't have that "film" look that people expected.
Also, if you do your processing in Lightroom, it is set up to do an old trick from Ansel Adams. There are sliders to set a white point and a black point. There are then sliders to allocate the dynamic range between highlights, middle tones, and shadows.
The best explanation ever! You make things understandable and easy to practice! You are called "the Professor" below...I second that!!!! thank you!
Wow, thank you!
I've never used it on my camera, I will be using it now. Wow, thank you again
Feels like this video is posted just at the right time, as I was finding recent photos to turn out very noisy despite having tried other options. Extremely useful information! Definitely gonna try it next trip out and about!
Great to hear!
I did an experiment following the ETTR on the gfx100s in raw. And yes the ETTER ( two stops overexposed) version has less noise as evidently comes out brighter. However, I noticed a significant drop in the dynamic range of this in post production,. Once I adjusted the ETTR version to a correct exposure, the lightroom adjustments, shadow and black handles, were maxed out before I could get the same satisfying result, as the normally exposed. If shadows are recorded too bright, it seems there is less dynamic range to pull from in the shadows.So for me, this is a give and take method.
Interesting. If there wasn’t any clipping, it should have had better dynamic range. Note that all colour channels won’t clip at the same time.
This could be another video itself. The effects of clipping individual color channels (causing colors casts) will not necessarily cause highlight alerts.
I started shooting film in high school in the mid-'60s and continued until I retired. Recently, after years of fighting it tooth and nail, I bought a digital camera (Nikon Zf) that gave me the feel of manual shooting back in the day of film-sort of. After watching several of your videos, this one gave me the needed epiphany. I was struggling with ISO and the histogram. I've seen the light! ETTR is the ticket! Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
For clarification purposes, allow me to explain my "wrestling" with ISO in my comment above (lest everyone takes me for a dunce). The term ASA (American Standards Association), referring to the film's "speed," was officially replaced by ISO (International Organization for Standardization) in 1974. This change was an effort to harmonize international standards for film sensitivity. The ISO system combined ASA and the German DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung) ratings into a unified scale for better global consistency. Thanks again, Simon, for your clear and concise explanation.
Yes...I have to echo the others who are writing that this was the best explanation of ETTR that I have seen. The kudo's you are getting here in the comments are well deserved!!!
That was a masterclass of explanation, you made a potentially difficult and confusing subject, easy and straightforward to understand, thank you for video.
Glad it was helpful!
@@simon_dentremont I appreciate your dedication to the craft
He really outdid himself on this one!
The best explanation of the benefit of employing ETTR. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great, easy to understand. Excellent explanation
What a great tutorial and I'll definitely start experimenting with ETTR for sure. Excellent theory and explanation throughout this tutorial! Thank you-Merci!!
Practical, useable advice attached to an easy to remember acronym. 👍👍
Outstanding tipps. Thanks soo much Simon.
My pleasure!
Pure gold! Thank you!
Very welcome!
So good! Even though I know the rationale behind ETR, I found this video extremely informative because of the back to basics approach, and, you didn't mention bracketing once! So big thanks for such a well presented topic. I'm a real fanboy.
A very clear explanation of what ETTR means and how to do it. Thanks.
Glad you liked it
This was fantastic, Simon. I started watching thinking you have covered this many times before, but as usual, you have added some great nuances to build on the previous topics.
Many thanks!
Many thanks Simon. That was a great lesson in photography.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation. The principle is similar to the way old analog audio noise reduction systems functioned- Dolby and DBx.
It's all about managing the signal to noise ratio
Superbe video démontrant très clairement l'effet désiré avec le ETTR. Merci beaucoup M. Dentremont.
De rien!
Even though I know this stuff, I still find it both entertaining and educational to watch Simon give his view on ETTR. Great video! =)
I had heard that you should under expose by 1/3 stop, but after this, I'm not doing it anymore. Thanks for the clarification about what's going on.
That is exposing to the left to preserve highlights and then bring up the shadows, useful as well especially for shooting on the go and get more contrasty images. ETTR on the other hand gives you max info on your raw file, for a given scene, to play around.
Brilliant explanation ☺️ thank you
your previous ETTR tought me a lot , after many of your video I think myself a better amateur photographer than before. thanks for sharing your tips n tricks
Glad you’re finding my videos helpful!
@ with out your video I’m still stuck somewhere and you’re good level
Thanks, a great video. I always keep my histogram at least 2 stops to the left of bright. The histogram is a jpg representation of the image, and tends to overexpose. My experience with Canon cameras is that it is easier to recover the dark areas than the bright.