Hey man. Your videos help me out a lot. I'm a decent mechanic. But I've never messed with a 5cyl or a volvo. I appreciate the time you took to share your knowledge and experience man.
@@RobertDIY so many great comments. no trhread lock. gasket orientation. torque process. much thx! what do you think of GASKET SEALERS like KSEAL or STEEL SEAL rather than a full head seal replacement?
Those little tips and suggestions are very helpful. Nicely done videos. You give a DIY guy like me confidence. Taking time, taking care, and paying attention to details make the job go well. Thanks Robert, you have a pleasant teaching style.
I pay for Alldata and not a bit of info on these European cars. Thank you for the cam alignment info. Save me a lot of headache. You're a good man. Thank You.
Robert DIY .....I love your vids Rob....but ibhave a question I accidently put a coolant line on a vacuum line and now I have coolant all thru the system.I started it 5 times it was cranking but had white smoke...so we unhooked everything and put the line where they need to be and now the car won't start...could that be from coolant in the engine and how would I fix the problem or is the engine gone???
Coolant in cylinders, possibly. Crank engine with plugs out to eject the coolant.. Add a capful of oil to help seal and crank again. Replace plugs, start car. Better than giving up.
Totally invaluable instruction Robert! You are an angel mechanic of TH-cam. I'll spare you the whole story but I have a Volvo V50 that ingested the serpentine belt into the timing belt area causing it to skip time (~20 degrees!) and resulting in 20 bent valves. Taking this thing apart and putting it back together would not have been possible without your detailed and easy to follow tutorials. Thank you!
Wow! I'm a gal with only a bit of experience on auto repair but this video is so good, if I had the right set up, I just may be able to do it! I love how meticulous you are because that's one of the first lessons I'm learning is that to fix things correctly, you have to have PATIENCE. I think that's the reason we acquired our 2000 Volvo v40?! I need to work on my patience! LOL
Wow, great video! I'm now at the stage of reinstallation of a Volvo 850 head in a renault safrane which has almost no tech details from renault and it's slightly modified from the volvo variant. Your video has been incredibly helpful. I appreciate your tip on the hydraullic lifters too - pressing the middle bit while in oil - invaluable.
Just noting: 135° is actually halfway between 90 and 180. Compass heading of perfect SE. The heater hose/ ptc fix is still working wonders, btw. I have burnt ~1 qt in 6000 miles and she just ticked to over 282k miles. Love the vids and am considering replacing my gal's 5 speed N/A head gasket. My only prior twin cam head experience was on the 1988 16v GTi.. she still fires right up.
After watching your videos and reading your instructions I was able to replace a burnt head gasket on my v70(learned my lesson, no hot piping a turbo) I appreciate you taking to time to put this info up.
When I am doing My final torque I always paint a spot on the 12 O'clock position The I adjust to the 5:30 position to set up My 130° degree AND if you have to do multiple torque steps the paint keeps you orientated in case you get called away or distracted while torquing your cylinder head the paint is a good backup.
@@RobertDIY for someone who works at a shop AND gets constant distraction from customers and pH calls or drops tool's or even bosses and coworkers or just things that happen The paint on the bolts let's you know where you left off AND I have seen techs loose their spot AND go to tighten up a bolt that it has had its final pass and strip out the threads especially when you're doing a torque angel.
Thanks for all the excellent videos Robert. I'm an experienced backyard mechanic and use the videos for any tips and as a recon if you will for the job I'm about to do. Bought a $300 850 T5 wagon not running a couple of months ago, suspected blown head gasket. Sure enough my diagnosis was confirmed when I got the car home and put the compression tester on the engine. Fortunately, no obvious failures, just a tired old gasket someone had been nursing with head gasket in a bottle. Just treated the old girl to a machined head, all new gaskets and seals on the top end and all new timing components. Now I have an oil cooler line to replace and the exhaust manifold has to come off to be machined, it's to warped to seal and I plain forgot to check if it was flat before I bolted it to the head. The engine did fire up and run very well, just sounded like a tractor. You guys in the states are lucky when working on the back of the head and exhaust, your brake booster is on the other side of the firewall. On right hand drive cars, the booster and master cylinder is right in the middle of the cam cover! I resort to removing the front two cross member bolts and rotating the cross member down at the front about six inches or so. Provides just enough clearance to get the manifold out from behind the head.
Ouch! I recently learned that exhaust manifolds can be warped. Yikes! These head gaskets just don't wear out, they blow because people fail to keep coolant, etc in them.
7:47 I used a Pringles can cover, drilled a hole in mid of it, measured the angles on paper with some algebra which then used to paint dots on that plastic cover then used a zip tie around my socket and cut the tail of it to be about an inch long so it would work as the indicator between those dots on that plastic Pringles Chips cover---- Ufff.... to tighten those head bolts down on my mothers Opel which had a blown head gasket. And has worked for atleast the past 4 years since.
@@RobertDIY Rob you wouldn't Believe The condition of this motor..every single nut and bolt was incorrect and stripped..all the way thought. Don't get me started on the electrical side..every single cable is stripped open and covered in oil. Advised the customer to let it go..
I have put my hands on my Volvo many times following your videos, pcv valve, and what not, I just pulled the head took it to the machine shop and next week I'm expecting to install the head and fire up hopefully, I had all I take valves bent and I'm hoping with your amazing videos to get the car started again omgPlease let me know how to align the valves on s70 , God bless. And never quit posting your cool videos, cheers
Robert DIY yes I did, was wondering if you see.the marks on the end where distributor goes like the video you showed, however you didn't mention Volvo s70 that was my concern..
Hi Robert, I recently replaced the head gasket on my 850. Would not start after. Found out that I had installed the rotor 180 degree out incorrectly on the exhaust cam . All searches on the internet do not mention that it can fit either way. So now now that the lip has to be at the bottom of the cam rotor . I thought it would be offset enough for this not to happen. But in reality it can be installed 180 degrees even though a bit snug. May be worth a mention in future posts.
Hello again, at time 25:09, what is that connection called on the other end of the intake manifold. And, what does it do. That connection on my car was originally broke when I stripped my engine down. Was wondering what it is and it's function. I have to replace it now.
Yo Robert Sir, I really appreciate your tutorial quite detail. I have to reassemble all parts together while I'm not the guy who disassemble it... LOL😂😂. Anyway thanks bro👍👍
Yea loved ur video helped explain alot to me without how most try to look more intelligent using technical words time u figure out what their saying u forgot half what they tring to explain!Need more videos with u showing how to get it done without tring to win a Oscar!😂
Maybe I missed it, but I dont recall anywhere in these prep, removal, or install videos, anything about the fact that the head and valve cover are machined together to match for the cams. You must use the valve cover for the head you are installing, or the cams can bind/gall/break ect. I guess the video assumes you will reinstall the head you removed, which is fair enough. But this small bit of info wouldve been invaluable for me to avoid having to now grind a cam journal and cam...
@@RobertDIY i had a head warp from over heat. Replaced the head with a good straight one from a pull yard, had it cleaned and resurfaced. I used the valve cover from my old warped head, as it was level, and didnt know they are meant to be kept together. I was able to go back to the pull yard and get the valve cover for this head, but I dont know if its too late for it. The cam journal has a pretty good gouge in it, and the cam has aluminum stuck to it.
Going to try to use some 800/2000 grit sandpaper and time to polish the almunium off the cam, and get the high spot burrs out of the heads cam journal, and try with the correct valve cover. And test for bent valves, of course. Worst case, I go find *another* head and valve cover(probably the cams too), and redo the job again.
Wonderful video. Just one question about the block surface, there is no need to clean more than we saw in these video? I was worry about that part of cylinder liners that is more dark than the part close to the liners?
@@RobertDIY ok thanks, another question, I know that is not ideal, but one of my cylinder liners apears to be separated from block, but it's minimal, and I don't know if the gasket will seal properly, do you have an email? Maybe I can sent you a picture of the block surface.
Robert, in your infinite experiences with these P80s, how often is is just a head gasket? how often is it a head gasket and head? how often is the block warped? Just curious... Hope all is good, brother!
Oh god that looks like a lot of work. I may have to do this job and I never did it before.. Do you recommend a more experince person does it or help or just dive in and do it and learn as you go.
Robert thank you for your videos, i am a retire person from the car industry yet found a 97 850 SW and started restoring as best a could did a complete sustention and is ready to a full paint job to me is a matter of joy yet the engine with a compression even of 210 your recommended test for head failure did not pass any other advise apart of the emission test??
Thanks alot Robert, i have a 1996 Volvo 960. I had a major oil leak at the head cover ,now i need put new sealant and reinstall the valve cover the problem is that valve cover can't seal completely on the cylinders head due the Cams are slightly sticking out, do you have any tips on how to reinstall the valve cover correctly, thanks brother.
Hello, I would like you to help me with some information: the oil meter rod of my car (Volvo V40 2002) is made of plastic and it broke in half, leaving one half inside. I would like to know if it ends up in the crankcase? Is it advisable to move the car like this? If it can cause serious damage? Your guidance would be of great help to me, please 😢
Keep driving until you purchase another one. Just the stick. Then pull the entire tube and you will be able to get the broken piece out of the tube or it will be sticking out of the oil pan hole where you took the tube loose.
Robert, first of all, you're the man. Been watching your videos since like 2015-16 or so when I got my first Volvo S70. I appreciate all the work you do for us. Here's my question - 2001 S80 I6 2.9, Combustion into Coolant Head Gasket leak. So I'm going to replace Gasket. Can I just remove the entire head and go for the gasket alone, or is there any reason I should expect to have to disassemble the entire head, and rebuild it? I've checked out the links, they really helped demonstrating how to get it done, but I would prefer to avoid the entire teardown and rebuild if it's not absolutely necessary. If it has to be done, or if you'd recommend the whole disassembly then I'll make it happen. Just wanted to double check before I dig into anything.
Hi robert, my 850 t5r is having a ticking/clicking sound coming from the top of the motor. Should I go ahead and buy a whole new lifter set? Have you ever heard of it being because of some oil pan seals? You seem very experienced with these cars and I would very much appreciate your opinion. I am going to be doing a headgasket/pcv/timing belt replacement coming up this week and I'm wondering if i should put it all back together and see if the clicking persists before replacing any lifters. Thank you for any info and opinion you can share with me :)
I have heard some say that oil pan seals cause lifter tick. I would check oil pressure before I drop the oil pan. The older 850's have older style lifters that are prone to failure. You can get newer lifters, I would get them made for '98 cars. New or used should be fine.
Hi Robert, i have a question. Have a V40 from 2002 so with NON hydraulic lifters. I drive LPG now for 200.000 km with no problems. 2.0 liter engine 4 cilinder non turbo. If i want to check the valve clearance i need a special tool to clamp the camshaft in the hearing bedding. Do you now the Volvo nummer of the tool? Love your video.s you are a good mechanic
Dam good video robert, watched it to the end, and i dont own a volvo lol :-D. Yes i imagine you would have to be gentle with the engine at first start up, a gentle warm up and smooth pottering type drive has got to be better than stressing the engine. What do you do to check your beam torque wrench, put a calculated weight on the handle and check for the same foot/pound reading perhaps?
Both types "should" be checked regularly. In the real world, very few DIY'ers have this done. Back when I worked as a contractor in a military shop environment, we sent our multimeters and torque wrenches to be checked and calibrated as needed. A quick way to see if your wrench is close would be to put a known good weight on the end of the wrench (other end is mounted to a bench vice) and see if the reading matches (or if the wrench 'clicks' if you have a click-type). Try it with different weights within the range of your torque wrench.
Hello, I have a problem on the Volvo 136kw engine, the acceleration is weak at the start, it has trouble starting and when the engine heats up well everything works correctly. I want to know why the starting acceleration is slow and if there is a solution to fix the problem?
Hello sir.. wanna ask about hole in the middle sprak plug number 4 on left-hand..mine during engine keep on engine oil come out from there.. is it for breather?
Hey Robert, so I'm reading that the cam cover bolts should be 15inch lbs, 13ft lbs, 15ft lbs, and 10ft lbs..... which one is right ? Really don't want to snap a cam or strip any bolts :/
Thanks for an awesome video! The lifters has a small hole, and so does the head where the lifters are installed, are you supposed to line those holes up with each other?
Hi robert, i have done a majority of the small jobs on my old vovlo s70t5 98 including oil change, pcv, heater core ect with the help of your videos. my next tasks are to be timing belt and water pump, is it worth changing the gasket and doing the top end rebuild at this time? the engine is only on 105000 miles but i feel this car has maybe had a harder life than most as the pcv was full to the brim.I read that i would need a "harmonic balance puller" to do this job but something tells me the advice came from a volvo tech, your veiw on this?
Huh? I have NEVER pulled a harmonic balancer on one of these cars. My car has 340,000 on the engine and it has NEVER been cracked. Do the timing belt and water pump and keep driving.
Hi, thanks for this helpful information Please I just need to know if is it MANDATORY to use a new bolts or can i use my old ones s8nce i can't find them in my region.
First thanks for your response , Really , Is the official repair procedurs mention that these bolts are non reusable parts and must be replaced !? The reason for my question is that cyl. Head bolts aren't available in stores in egypt and I must wait for about month to recieve ordered kit from any supplier outside my country.
Question! Hopefully you have an answer. I have a 1998 Volvo S70 T5 (2.3L 5cyl Turbo). Just recently the camshaft sensor went out, got chewed and grinded up. Wasn't sure why it happened but it knocked off the magnetic reader piece on the old one and did the same exact thing to the brand new one I just put in! I'm lost as to why it has now destroyed 2 camshaft sensors in a day
Hi robert , I removed the head and I checked for warpage , the head is warped so ill send it to the shop , however the engine block showed around 0.08 mm warpage in the middle between cylinders , is this normal ? The manual does not specify any limitations for the engine block , it does not ask to check it at all !
Not good. You should have that made true as well. You can ask a real mechanic or the machine shop but I think the limit is 0.035. If they have to take to much off the head, taken some off of the block, it may make everything out of its proper limits. So you'll either need a head spacer or replace the engine.
If I wanted to do a RN turbo swap (straight turbo tube newer ver.) to a 97 850 non turbo transmission in car, which models should I pull the engine from?
Whats up Robert hope you're well, just wanted to ask theres no need to retorque head bolts for these engines? Ive heard on some volvo engines you have to run the engine to operating temp, and then retorque the headbolts.
Hello Robert, great explanatory video. I have a v70 that has just had a head gasket replaced by a garage. Unfortunately now there's an oil leak from the mystery hole (not the PCV... the hole with two threaded holes beside) between cylinders 2 and 3! I think that they did not do the anaerobic sealant correctly in that area. Do you know what this the purpose of this hole? In your nice and clear video it can be seem that the hole matches one in the lower head... where does it go from there? Thanks!
Thanks Robert! Yup... she's going back today. So the oil is leaking out of the gallery and up into the hole and the bottom of the hole terminates in the lower head.
I'm having trouble getting the lifters to compress. what would you recommend to compress them. only one compresses. the rest seem to stop against something instead of getting progressively harder to push as you squeeze them.
I have rebuilt my Volvo 1999 v70 awd with vvt, head was re-done by a professional when I locked down my cams I used a cam lock tool. My oil pump timing mark was directly on in between the two timing marks in the valley, my two overhead cams were locked when I torqued down the cover, I reset my timing belt & my vvt that I did not touch when removed, the position of the vvt clutch was 1 and a 1/2 to the left, when I placed my timing belt all marks lined up, the crank stayed stable, I turned the crank two full revolutions clockwise, my marks re-aligned correctly. When I started the car it fired, ran for 5 seconds like it was on 1 piston then stalled. I'm going to do a compression test to see if they're all equal, does this mean my valves are okay & can you tell me how to check to see if there is fuel going through the ejectors to the cylinders, I hear my fuel pump working (I did not disconnect the fuel line at all near the intake manifold). Thank you very much, waiting on your reply from a grateful Canadian.
Hey robbert. Iam helping a buddy to replace a headgasket. We reinstalled the camcover and cams. But when i rotate the cams, the intake cam is VERY hard to rotate. Exhoust side i rotated by hand, but the intake cam i needed a hammer (with wood inbetween so no scratchs). Is this normal or do i need to take the camcover off again? (This is the 10 valve 2.0 s70 from 1998)
850. Yes. I use a paint marker. Although it is very small, they do develop a wear pattern between the surfaces. It isn't critical but it does help it run a little smoother.
I have no idea. I usually get a used replacement head. Besides that, those cars have solid lifters and are extremely complicated when it comes to doing a valve job. Not sure if you want to get into that.
Hey have you ever tried the blue german polyurethane called Rhizoplast for your VC gasket? Its purpose is same as silicone, just has a higher and lower temp resistance. Going to try it for mine. I used it in place for the throttle body gasket and seems to work well.
Great Video Robert. Curious, on a turbo, when removing head, and the exhaust manifold bolts remain in head, while half come out, how do you lift head, does the exhaust manifold need to be removed with head and disconnect turbo and exhaust pipe? Or can you move manifold enough to clear bolts. Thanks
Swing manifold forward? Sorry, does not compute. So with manifold unbolted, and head preventing swinging it forward, do you mean swing in backwards toward firewall? Thanks
Thanks Robert, you have been very helpful over the years and I very much appreciate it. One other quick question, on the right side of head looking into engine bay, driver side, the engine support bracket, I can't find lower bolt so it is still attached, can head come off with it attached? Or is that last bolt into the block out of site from top? That bottom cooling pipe bolt is a nightmare without seeing it, so that is the last thing I will attack today. So the turbo can stay in place, right?
Brother, you have taken me from, I haven't even changed my own oil to almost done reassembling my engine after doing some valve work and replacing the head gasket, so much thanks. I took apart more hoses and electrical plugs than was required to accommodate the lack of tools i started with. I dont know where a lot of the extra pieces go, I've been looking through your videos and am having trouble finding one that talks about the peripheral parts. My Haynes manual doesn't have many pictures and I've been on matthewsvolvosite a good amount looking. Any suggestions? Thanks again, ~Mike
I know it's a bit late to help you, but maybe this will help other guys... I always take a LOT of pictures with my cell phone as I go along taking apart connectors, hoses, and other stuff. Then later when i put the stuff back together and I forget something, I can look at my pictures and figure it where stuff is supposed to go.
good afternoon I have a volvo 960 2.9l the chore of time broke I put it together but I can not get the engine time does not have marks on the camshafts could you help me thank you very much
Hey Robert im having an issue reinstalling the cam cover. i pulled it to swap in na cams with new seals. somehow its hangin up in the back right hand corner by the engine mount. what could be causing this? I have the cams facing straight up for the moment and ive moved the sam seals alittle to make sure they where not hanging up on that
Hello Robert! I dropped and replaced my oil pan on my 04 Volvo S60. My problem is I can't remember where my mounting bolts go. There are 4 long bolts, 3 medium bolts and about 18 short bolts. Do you have a diagram that shows where the bolts go?
Hey brother Robert, does these cam writing apply to all the Volvos? I have a 2001 s40 that blow head gasket but I don’t remember how the cam shafts was set when I first took it off, that’s my only fear of not setting them right please let me know
Hi Robert. Question: How do you get your camshaft head so clean? The aluminium is so shiny like a new part. Do you use som kind of acid? No aceton could remove the miscoloring at my sylinder top and camshafttop like your results shows in your videos. Du you wanna share the secret with us viewers? Please? 😉
Easily the BEST Volvo 5 cylinder head and cam carrier installation video out there.
thanks for watching and sharing.
Hey man. Your videos help me out a lot. I'm a decent mechanic. But I've never messed with a 5cyl or a volvo. I appreciate the time you took to share your knowledge and experience man.
You are welcome
@@RobertDIY so many great comments. no trhread lock. gasket orientation. torque process. much thx! what do you think of GASKET SEALERS like KSEAL or STEEL SEAL rather than a full head seal replacement?
Those little tips and suggestions are very helpful. Nicely done videos. You give a DIY guy like me confidence. Taking time, taking care, and paying attention to details make the job go well.
Thanks Robert, you have a pleasant teaching style.
Glad to help, thanks for sharing.
I pay for Alldata and not a bit of info on these European cars. Thank you for the cam alignment info. Save me a lot of headache. You're a good man. Thank You.
+Rocker Pat you are welcome.
Robert DIY .....I love your vids Rob....but ibhave a question I accidently put a coolant line on a vacuum line and now I have coolant all thru the system.I started it 5 times it was cranking but had white smoke...so we unhooked everything and put the line where they need to be and now the car won't start...could that be from coolant in the engine and how would I fix the problem or is the engine gone???
@@bigyanko360 Unless you rebuild engines it sounds like you might have done yourself in.
Coolant in cylinders, possibly. Crank engine with plugs out to eject the coolant.. Add a capful of oil to help seal and crank again. Replace plugs, start car. Better than giving up.
Totally invaluable instruction Robert! You are an angel mechanic of TH-cam. I'll spare you the whole story but I have a Volvo V50 that ingested the serpentine belt into the timing belt area causing it to skip time (~20 degrees!) and resulting in 20 bent valves. Taking this thing apart and putting it back together would not have been possible without your detailed and easy to follow tutorials. Thank you!
I hope you seen the P1 video.
Thanks for watching and sharing.
Wow! I'm a gal with only a bit of experience on auto repair but this video is so good, if I had the right set up, I just may be able to do it! I love how meticulous you are because that's one of the first lessons I'm learning is that to fix things correctly, you have to have PATIENCE. I think that's the reason we acquired our 2000 Volvo v40?! I need to work on my patience! LOL
LOL Thanks for watching.
Wow, great video! I'm now at the stage of reinstallation of a Volvo 850 head in a renault safrane which has almost no tech details from renault and it's slightly modified from the volvo variant. Your video has been incredibly helpful. I appreciate your tip on the hydraullic lifters too - pressing the middle bit while in oil - invaluable.
Thanks for watching
Just noting: 135° is actually halfway between 90 and 180.
Compass heading of perfect SE.
The heater hose/ ptc fix is still working wonders, btw.
I have burnt ~1 qt in 6000 miles and she just ticked to over 282k miles.
Love the vids and am considering replacing my gal's 5 speed N/A head gasket.
My only prior twin cam head experience was on the 1988 16v GTi.. she still fires right up.
Good deal.
Me and my 850 appreciate your video's! Thank you!
+Don From Mpls you are welcome.
After watching your videos and reading your instructions I was able to replace a burnt head gasket on my v70(learned my lesson, no hot piping a turbo) I appreciate you taking to time to put this info up.
Good deal. Glad they helped.
When I am doing My final torque I always paint a spot on the 12 O'clock position The I adjust to the 5:30 position to set up My 130° degree AND if you have to do multiple torque steps the paint keeps you orientated in case you get called away or distracted while torquing your cylinder head the paint is a good backup.
I don't get distracted when torquing down a cylinder head.
@@RobertDIY for someone who works at a shop AND gets constant distraction from customers and pH calls or drops tool's or even bosses and coworkers or just things that happen The paint on the bolts let's you know where you left off AND I have seen techs loose their spot AND go to tighten up a bolt that it has had its final pass and strip out the threads especially when you're doing a torque angel.
Thanks for all the excellent videos Robert. I'm an experienced backyard mechanic and use the videos for any tips and as a recon if you will for the job I'm about to do.
Bought a $300 850 T5 wagon not running a couple of months ago, suspected blown head gasket. Sure enough my diagnosis was confirmed when I got the car home and put the compression tester on the engine. Fortunately, no obvious failures, just a tired old gasket someone had been nursing with head gasket in a bottle.
Just treated the old girl to a machined head, all new gaskets and seals on the top end and all new timing components.
Now I have an oil cooler line to replace and the exhaust manifold has to come off to be machined, it's to warped to seal and I plain forgot to check if it was flat before I bolted it to the head. The engine did fire up and run very well, just sounded like a tractor.
You guys in the states are lucky when working on the back of the head and exhaust, your brake booster is on the other side of the firewall. On right hand drive cars, the booster and master cylinder is right in the middle of the cam cover! I resort to removing the front two cross member bolts and rotating the cross member down at the front about six inches or so. Provides just enough clearance to get the manifold out from behind the head.
Ouch! I recently learned that exhaust manifolds can be warped. Yikes! These head gaskets just don't wear out, they blow because people fail to keep coolant, etc in them.
Really nice video, and step by step explanation, just really fills like you making career out of it.
Thanks for watching
Cake
Looks like to me you know cars and how to service them right. I liked your video sir, very good training video.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you again for taking the time to put this vid together! really helpful and full of great tips! Cheers.
You are welcome
95 850 with 330k miles and still going strong. Probably gonna do this and a timing kit soon!
cool
7:47 I used a Pringles can cover, drilled a hole in mid of it, measured the angles on paper with some algebra which then used to paint dots on that plastic cover then used a zip tie around my socket and cut the tail of it to be about an inch long so it would work as the indicator between those dots on that plastic Pringles Chips cover----
Ufff.... to tighten those head bolts down on my mothers Opel which had a blown head gasket. And has worked for atleast the past 4 years since.
Interesting
This Helped a lot buddy😥 I'm a Audi and BMW Tech with a Customer with the same Car lol..and had a massive oil leak on the Cover...missions man lol
thanks for watching.
@@RobertDIY Rob you wouldn't Believe The condition of this motor..every single nut and bolt was incorrect and stripped..all the way thought. Don't get me started on the electrical side..every single cable is stripped open and covered in oil.
Advised the customer to let it go..
It's a W pattern same as tractor engine,which a Volvo is a cousin,that's why they last up to 450,000 to 550,000 if you service them to the TEE!!
Nice
I have put my hands on my Volvo many times following your videos, pcv valve, and what not, I just pulled the head took it to the machine shop and next week I'm expecting to install the head and fire up hopefully, I had all I take valves bent and I'm hoping with your amazing videos to get the car started again omgPlease let me know how to align the valves on s70 , God bless. And never quit posting your cool videos, cheers
+DIEGO SOSA-DIAS this video shows how. Did you remove the cam sprockets?
Robert DIY yes I did, was wondering if you see.the marks on the end where distributor goes like the video you showed, however you didn't mention Volvo s70 that was my concern..
th-cam.com/video/3CTNiKlgdFA/w-d-xo.html
Huh. Didn't know what those angle gauges are for, Thanks for the free lesson.
Happy to help!
Hi Robert, I recently replaced the head gasket on my 850. Would not start after. Found out that I had installed the rotor 180 degree out incorrectly on the exhaust cam . All searches on the internet do not mention that it can fit either way. So now now that the lip has to be at the bottom of the cam rotor . I thought it would be offset enough for this not to happen. But in reality it can be installed 180 degrees even though a bit snug. May be worth a mention in future posts.
Like in this one? th-cam.com/video/bH9gcPqzV4I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=r3Lq_wqBrEv_CjlO
I have about 42 videos with that information in it.
Hey Robert this us another Robert. Ur info. Is very valuable. Keep Up the great informing videos. THANKS ALOT.
You bet
From the UK Robert, outstanding my man
thanks for watching.
Nice to see someone who knows what they are doing. The dental floss is a great idea.
Thanks for watching.
Hello again, at time 25:09, what is that connection called on the other end of the intake manifold. And, what does it do. That connection on my car was originally broke when I stripped my engine down. Was wondering what it is and it's function. I have to replace it now.
It's a vacuum nipple. It simply gives another port for vacuum to be connected to. If your plug is missing, I'd just get another manifold.
Very good video, thanks. I know it takes longer to explain things but was very well done and helpful
Glad you enjoyed it!
Working on mine today and through the weekend. Thanks for making this video. Great information and tips!
you are welcome.
FANTASTIC video, as always, Robert!! 16 thumbs down? WTF?
Lazy people not wanting to do the work. lol
Yo Robert Sir, I really appreciate your tutorial quite detail. I have to reassemble all parts together while I'm not the guy who disassemble it... LOL😂😂.
Anyway thanks bro👍👍
ouch
@@RobertDIY Can I contact you? Just in case I've confusing with the assembly.... This is my first time to handle european car.. please🙏
I love your videos, thank you for putting in the effort to film your wrenching
Thanks for watching!
I'll watch it again and again. thanks
You are welcome
Great video!!! Glad I found you. I have an 04 xc70 2.5T
Cool
Yea loved ur video helped explain alot to me without how most try to look more intelligent using technical words time u figure out what their saying u forgot half what they tring to explain!Need more videos with u showing how to get it done without tring to win a Oscar!😂
Thanks for watching
Did you hone your cylinders while you had the head off. If not, why?
Do you repack the grease in the wheel hubs when you change a CV axle?
Comprehensive and clear video. Thanks
You're welcome!
Your prices are reasonable. I was told my head gasket repair will be $1500 in my Volvo s40
If you do it yourself.
Maybe I missed it, but I dont recall anywhere in these prep, removal, or install videos, anything about the fact that the head and valve cover are machined together to match for the cams. You must use the valve cover for the head you are installing, or the cams can bind/gall/break ect. I guess the video assumes you will reinstall the head you removed, which is fair enough. But this small bit of info wouldve been invaluable for me to avoid having to now grind a cam journal and cam...
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What did you do with the cam cover?
@@RobertDIY i had a head warp from over heat. Replaced the head with a good straight one from a pull yard, had it cleaned and resurfaced. I used the valve cover from my old warped head, as it was level, and didnt know they are meant to be kept together. I was able to go back to the pull yard and get the valve cover for this head, but I dont know if its too late for it. The cam journal has a pretty good gouge in it, and the cam has aluminum stuck to it.
Going to try to use some 800/2000 grit sandpaper and time to polish the almunium off the cam, and get the high spot burrs out of the heads cam journal, and try with the correct valve cover. And test for bent valves, of course. Worst case, I go find *another* head and valve cover(probably the cams too), and redo the job again.
Clean the metal off of the cam. I would get another head.
Amazing job, great video. Thank you for making this.
you are welcome.
14:51 do you mean this is a non interference engine? What about my B5252S is that an interference engine?
all white block's are interference.
Hello Robert and thank you for wonderful movies! Regards. Arne from Norway.
Thank you for watching.
I’m finna get ready to do a head gasket change is there any tip I need to know ?
Awesome!
We are looking at pulling the head on our 96 R, but it is mainly for lifter noise. Do you have a recommendation on higher quality parts?
I do not.
Wonderful video. Just one question about the block surface, there is no need to clean more than we saw in these video? I was worry about that part of cylinder liners that is more dark than the part close to the liners?
Yes, correct. There is no need to remove stains, only material.
@@RobertDIY ok thanks, another question, I know that is not ideal, but one of my cylinder liners apears to be separated from block, but it's minimal, and I don't know if the gasket will seal properly, do you have an email? Maybe I can sent you a picture of the block surface.
Robert, in your infinite experiences with these P80s,
how often is is just a head gasket?
how often is it a head gasket and head?
how often is the block warped?
Just curious... Hope all is good, brother!
+BlastReadingSeries 95% of the time it is the head. Four % of the time it is the head & block. One % of the time it is the gasket only.
Man, thanks for these hard facts. This is a job to take with the utmost certainty! Hope all is good man!
u the man, thanks bro.. couldn't of did it without r videos
You are welcome.
Thanks Robert, this video is very helpful. Manov
you are welcome.
I have a blown head gasket on a 01 Volvo v70 xc awd is it a tough job
lol Yes.
Oh god that looks like a lot of work. I may have to do this job and I never did it before.. Do you recommend a more experince person does it or help or just dive in and do it and learn as you go.
Dive in.
Robert thank you for your videos, i am a retire person from the car industry yet found a 97 850 SW and started restoring as best a could did a complete sustention and is ready to a full paint job to me is a matter of joy yet the engine with a compression even of 210 your recommended test for head failure did not pass any other advise apart of the emission
test??
I don't understand what you are saying.
I wish you were in california,man great video .
Thanks for watching
Thanks alot Robert, i have a 1996 Volvo 960. I had a major oil leak at the head cover ,now i need put new sealant and reinstall the valve cover the problem is that valve cover can't seal completely on the cylinders head due the Cams are slightly sticking out, do you have any tips on how to reinstall the valve cover correctly, thanks brother.
did you watch the video?
Hello, I would like you to help me with some information: the oil meter rod of my car (Volvo V40 2002) is made of plastic and it broke in half, leaving one half inside. I would like to know if it ends up in the crankcase? Is it advisable to move the car like this? If it can cause serious damage? Your guidance would be of great help to me, please 😢
Keep driving until you purchase another one. Just the stick. Then pull the entire tube and you will be able to get the broken piece out of the tube or it will be sticking out of the oil pan hole where you took the tube loose.
Robert, first of all, you're the man. Been watching your videos since like 2015-16 or so when I got my first Volvo S70. I appreciate all the work you do for us.
Here's my question - 2001 S80 I6 2.9, Combustion into Coolant Head Gasket leak. So I'm going to replace Gasket.
Can I just remove the entire head and go for the gasket alone, or is there any reason I should expect to have to disassemble the entire head, and rebuild it? I've checked out the links, they really helped demonstrating how to get it done, but I would prefer to avoid the entire teardown and rebuild if it's not absolutely necessary.
If it has to be done, or if you'd recommend the whole disassembly then I'll make it happen. Just wanted to double check before I dig into anything.
I believe in doing the minimum. Have the head resurfaced install good parts.
Hi robert, my 850 t5r is having a ticking/clicking sound coming from the top of the motor. Should I go ahead and buy a whole new lifter set? Have you ever heard of it being because of some oil pan seals? You seem very experienced with these cars and I would very much appreciate your opinion. I am going to be doing a headgasket/pcv/timing belt replacement coming up this week and I'm wondering if i should put it all back together and see if the clicking persists before replacing any lifters. Thank you for any info and opinion you can share with me :)
I have heard some say that oil pan seals cause lifter tick. I would check oil pressure before I drop the oil pan. The older 850's have older style lifters that are prone to failure. You can get newer lifters, I would get them made for '98 cars. New or used should be fine.
thanks for the video mr. volvo professor.i have a question.do we need to retourque the head bolts?after a certain kms?
No.
good video im working on a s40 this week
What year S40?
@@RobertDIY 2006
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@@RobertDIY thanks for video / one of the cam wheels is solid with a torx connection in middle u know what size that would be it looks pretty big
Old but gold
Thanks for watching
Hey Robert, looking for any vids of exhaust manifold removal on the twin turbo, do you have any available? Thank you, great videos by the way
No I do not.
Hi Robert, i have a question.
Have a V40 from 2002 so with NON hydraulic lifters.
I drive LPG now for 200.000 km with no problems. 2.0 liter engine 4 cilinder non turbo.
If i want to check the valve clearance i need a special tool to clamp the camshaft in the hearing bedding.
Do you now the Volvo nummer of the tool?
Love your video.s you are a good mechanic
I do not.
Dam good video robert, watched it to the end, and i dont own a volvo lol :-D.
Yes i imagine you would have to be gentle with the engine at first start up, a gentle warm up and smooth pottering type drive has got to be better than stressing the engine.
What do you do to check your beam torque wrench, put a calculated weight on the handle and check for the same foot/pound reading perhaps?
Check it? I didn't know it ever needed to be checked. Yikes! I have always been concerned about the spring loaded ones that you have to dial in.
Both types "should" be checked regularly. In the real world, very few DIY'ers have this done. Back when I worked as a contractor in a military shop environment, we sent our multimeters and torque wrenches to be checked and calibrated as needed. A quick way to see if your wrench is close would be to put a known good weight on the end of the wrench (other end is mounted to a bench vice) and see if the reading matches (or if the wrench 'clicks' if you have a click-type). Try it with different weights within the range of your torque wrench.
I'll take it in to be replaced tomorrow. lol
Need to do a PSA on that.
Sorry i didnt think it would bother you, im sure its ok :-(
Hello,
I have a problem on the Volvo 136kw engine, the acceleration is weak at the start, it has trouble starting and when the engine heats up well everything works correctly. I want to know why the starting acceleration is slow and if there is a solution to fix the problem?
Bring it by and I'll check it out.
Hello sir.. wanna ask about hole in the middle sprak plug number 4 on left-hand..mine during engine keep on engine oil come out from there.. is it for breather?
th-cam.com/video/6Vxob9hvNhY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=APCMrLEwRcWmKmaV
hi robert
do you recommend buying a 1998 v70 with 350 000 km ?
the car is good shape
th-cam.com/video/L4g-w4OXeBw/w-d-xo.html
I do NOT recommend you purchase an older Volvo unless you like to tinker or have a lot of money to pay for upkeep.
Can I use a torque wrench to do the 130 on the head or do I have to use the angle Gage
Hi Robert, greetings. What brand do you recommend for replace the gasket head set for a Volvo 850 1993 GLT
th-cam.com/video/4UErzCn-oK4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-n3yM2CNc9jhYuLs
Hey Robert, so I'm reading that the cam cover bolts should be 15inch lbs, 13ft lbs, 15ft lbs, and 10ft lbs..... which one is right ? Really don't want to snap a cam or strip any bolts :/
If you want to follow me, read what I suggest in the comments section. I don't have control over what other people post...
Thanks for an awesome video!
The lifters has a small hole, and so does the head where the lifters are installed, are you supposed to line those holes up with each other?
Nope.
Hi robert, i have done a majority of the small jobs on my old vovlo s70t5 98 including oil change, pcv, heater core ect with the help of your videos. my next tasks are to be timing belt and water pump, is it worth changing the gasket and doing the top end rebuild at this time? the engine is only on 105000 miles but i feel this car has maybe had a harder life than most as the pcv was full to the brim.I read that i would need a "harmonic balance puller" to do this job but something tells me the advice came from a volvo tech, your veiw on this?
Huh? I have NEVER pulled a harmonic balancer on one of these cars. My car has 340,000 on the engine and it has NEVER been cracked. Do the timing belt and water pump and keep driving.
Hi,
thanks for this helpful information
Please I just need to know if is it MANDATORY to use a new bolts or can i use my old ones s8nce i can't find them in my region.
People do reuse cylinder head bolts. Those people are much braver than I.
@@RobertDIY I will check them first for any damage or elongation , if i find them all good , i will reuse it
@@ahmedabou-zeid2542 🤦🏾♂️
@@RobertDIY 😅😅
First thanks for your response ,
Really , Is the official repair procedurs mention that these bolts are non reusable parts and must be replaced !?
The reason for my question is that cyl. Head bolts aren't available in stores in egypt and I must wait for about month to recieve ordered kit from any supplier outside my country.
Amazing quality thank you
You are welcome
Question! Hopefully you have an answer. I have a 1998 Volvo S70 T5 (2.3L 5cyl Turbo). Just recently the camshaft sensor went out, got chewed and grinded up. Wasn't sure why it happened but it knocked off the magnetic reader piece on the old one and did the same exact thing to the brand new one I just put in! I'm lost as to why it has now destroyed 2 camshaft sensors in a day
Cam or crank sensors?
Hi robert , I removed the head and I checked for warpage , the head is warped so ill send it to the shop , however the engine block showed around 0.08 mm warpage in the middle between cylinders , is this normal ? The manual does not specify any limitations for the engine block , it does not ask to check it at all !
Not good. You should have that made true as well. You can ask a real mechanic or the machine shop but I think the limit is 0.035. If they have to take to much off the head, taken some off of the block, it may make everything out of its proper limits. So you'll either need a head spacer or replace the engine.
If I wanted to do a RN turbo swap (straight turbo tube newer ver.) to a 97 850 non turbo transmission in car, which models should I pull the engine from?
One built after 1998.
Whats up Robert hope you're well, just wanted to ask theres no need to retorque head bolts for these engines? Ive heard on some volvo engines you have to run the engine to operating temp, and then retorque the headbolts.
Wherever you read that information reported as hateful speech.
@@RobertDIY haha sounds good sir!
Hello Robert, great explanatory video. I have a v70 that has just had a head gasket replaced by a garage. Unfortunately now there's an oil leak from the mystery hole (not the PCV... the hole with two threaded holes beside) between cylinders 2 and 3! I think that they did not do the anaerobic sealant correctly in that area. Do you know what this the purpose of this hole? In your nice and clear video it can be seem that the hole matches one in the lower head... where does it go from there? Thanks!
The hole to nowhere. Used on '94 turbo cars. Not sealed properly. Hopefully they didn't bend the cover. Take it back.
Thanks Robert! Yup... she's going back today. So the oil is leaking out of the gallery and up into the hole and the bottom of the hole terminates in the lower head.
I'm having trouble getting the lifters to compress. what would you recommend to compress them. only one compresses. the rest seem to stop against something instead of getting progressively harder to push as you squeeze them.
+Justin Page I don't have a solution, I have never done it.
That was a new head gasket, right? It sounded like you might have been re-using when you said it was partly warped. But first-class tute man, 110% 🤩
Absolutely new.
@@RobertDIY Silly question, really. Thanks for the confirmation.
I have rebuilt my Volvo 1999 v70 awd with vvt, head was re-done by a professional when I locked down my cams I used a cam lock tool. My oil pump timing mark was directly on in between the two timing marks in the valley, my two overhead cams were locked when I torqued down the cover, I reset my timing belt & my vvt that I did not touch when removed, the position of the vvt clutch was 1 and a 1/2 to the left, when I placed my timing belt all marks lined up, the crank stayed stable, I turned the crank two full revolutions clockwise, my marks re-aligned correctly. When I started the car it fired, ran for 5 seconds like it was on 1 piston then stalled. I'm going to do a compression test to see if they're all equal, does this mean my valves are okay & can you tell me how to check to see if there is fuel going through the ejectors to the cylinders, I hear my fuel pump working (I did not disconnect the fuel line at all near the intake manifold). Thank you very much, waiting on your reply from a grateful Canadian.
th-cam.com/video/m6tVP6uq9ls/w-d-xo.html
My craftsman socket, craftsman adapter, and angle gauge is a little short to reaching the head bolt. Any suggestions?
Deeper socket. I have a socket just for those head bolts.
Hey robbert. Iam helping a buddy to replace a headgasket. We reinstalled the camcover and cams. But when i rotate the cams, the intake cam is VERY hard to rotate. Exhoust side i rotated by hand, but the intake cam i needed a hammer (with wood inbetween so no scratchs). Is this normal or do i need to take the camcover off again? (This is the 10 valve 2.0 s70 from 1998)
Did you use assembly lube?
Would it be ok to remove cylinder head to clean? I would just need new gaskets right
If you want to do it again.
My s70 t5 blew its head gascket. What brand Head gascket would you recommend.
Victor Rainz
Gates
What do you use.
Thanks
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Hey Robert. The Volvo manual says replace all the tappets into the original spots . Mark them upon removal which is which??
OK, do it that way.
850. Yes. I use a paint marker. Although it is very small, they do develop a wear pattern between the surfaces. It isn't critical but it does help it run a little smoother.
I've got a 2007 s40 t5 that jumped time. Where is the cheapest and best place to buy new valves?
I have no idea. I usually get a used replacement head. Besides that, those cars have solid lifters and are extremely complicated when it comes to doing a valve job. Not sure if you want to get into that.
Hey have you ever tried the blue german polyurethane called Rhizoplast for your VC gasket? Its purpose is same as silicone, just has a higher and lower temp resistance. Going to try it for mine. I used it in place for the throttle body gasket and seems to work well.
th-cam.com/video/pYuszsm9v1c/w-d-xo.html
Great Video Robert. Curious, on a turbo, when removing head, and the exhaust manifold bolts remain in head, while half come out, how do you lift head, does the exhaust manifold need to be removed with head and disconnect turbo and exhaust pipe? Or can you move manifold enough to clear bolts. Thanks
+ARE-YOU-FAT.com swing the manifold forward.
Swing manifold forward? Sorry, does not compute. So with manifold unbolted, and head preventing swinging it forward, do you mean swing in backwards toward firewall? Thanks
I meant to write swing the head forward. I have done a dozen of these heads, I break them free and pivot them forward. Have you tried it?
Thanks Robert, you have been very helpful over the years and I very much appreciate it. One other quick question, on the right side of head looking into engine bay, driver side, the engine support bracket, I can't find lower bolt so it is still attached, can head come off with it attached? Or is that last bolt into the block out of site from top? That bottom cooling pipe bolt is a nightmare without seeing it, so that is the last thing I will attack today. So the turbo can stay in place, right?
I never pull the turbo. The bracket may be stuck on a guide pin.
Brother, you have taken me from, I haven't even changed my own oil to almost done reassembling my engine after doing some valve work and replacing the head gasket, so much thanks. I took apart more hoses and electrical plugs than was required to accommodate the lack of tools i started with. I dont know where a lot of the extra pieces go, I've been looking through your videos and am having trouble finding one that talks about the peripheral parts. My Haynes manual doesn't have many pictures and I've been on matthewsvolvosite a good amount looking. Any suggestions? Thanks again, ~Mike
Go to my website and contact me from there.
I know it's a bit late to help you, but maybe this will help other guys... I always take a LOT of pictures with my cell phone as I go along taking apart connectors, hoses, and other stuff. Then later when i put the stuff back together and I forget something, I can look at my pictures and figure it where stuff is supposed to go.
Hey Robert, do u have a video on a 2.9 twin turbo head gasket installation? I'm having a hard time figuring out how to install timming belt. Thanks
timing belt should be the same if you did NOT remove the VVT hub.
The notches at the end of the cams. Which on goes up and which one down? On the exhaust and intake?
Great job Robert!
+jthonn thanks for watching.
good afternoon I have a volvo 960 2.9l the chore of time broke I put it together but I can not get the engine time does not have marks on the camshafts could you help me thank you very much
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Hey Robert im having an issue reinstalling the cam cover. i pulled it to swap in na cams with new seals. somehow its hangin up in the back right hand corner by the engine mount. what could be causing this? I have the cams facing straight up for the moment and ive moved the sam seals alittle to make sure they where not hanging up on that
+Detriuch Calhoun you need to watch the video again or call me.
Hello Robert! I dropped and replaced my oil pan on my 04 Volvo S60. My problem is I can't remember where my mounting bolts go. There are 4 long bolts, 3 medium bolts and about 18 short bolts. Do you have a diagram that shows where the bolts go?
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Hi. My torque wrench is starts 20nm. İt is too much for valve cover? Thanks.
Yes, it is
@@RobertDIY I had an accident and my vehicle was wrecked. Now my job is left to the future.
Thank you So kindly for your help
you are welcome
My 1997 850 base has 300,000 + miles . # 3 & #5 are dead is it worth preforming a head job?
th-cam.com/video/5DzlsVR84qU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/0OMvip53-Aw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the information
You are welcome
Hey Robert I bought a 99 V70R and I think the head might be warped, can I put an XC head on it or will that loose the R performance
Yes, but there are 2 heads. Not sure if it matters which one you install.
Alrighty, thank you!
Hey brother Robert, does these cam writing apply to all the Volvos? I have a 2001 s40 that blow head gasket but I don’t remember how the cam shafts was set when I first took it off, that’s my only fear of not setting them right please let me know
th-cam.com/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/w-d-xo.html
Oh my. Call if you need to. I have about 40 timing videos so I don't know where you want to go with this.
Got a 98 volvo v70 t5 I've changed connecting bearings ,hydraulic lifters and still has a tick it's not a knock tick
post a video of the sound.
Hi Robert. Question:
How do you get your camshaft head so clean? The aluminium is so shiny like a new part. Do you use som kind of acid? No aceton could remove the miscoloring at my sylinder top and camshafttop like your results shows in your videos. Du you wanna share the secret with us viewers? Please? 😉
A shop did it. Probably painted it after the vat dip.