Good stuff. I bought a IR6500 today and quickly realized that the bottom heater is pretty much worthless. The board gets about 45°C warm with the heater on 200. It is practically not preheating at all! I'll remove the glass, too!
Yes the glass makes no sense, it takes a lot of heat because it's pretty thick. A lot of people remove it and put a net, but i like it this way so i can clean it if i need to. When I've bought it, I tried to put it on the maximum temperature that the driver could handle, but it did no do much, i got the same result as you. Now, at 250º C (in the summer) i can reach those 150º (on top of the board), and in the winter, i go with 350º and it works great. Now take a look about thermal profiling, you need to configure your system to run a soldering profile (lead and lead-free solder has different melting temperatures), this machine is easier because it has only one TC for controlling the whole thing. Good luck :)
@@FixDaily I opened the thing up today. They glued the temp sensor on top of the heater element!! Can you believe this? Ridiculous. Of course it was already coming off. I removed it and routed it to the outside so that I can attach it to the underside of the PCBs. Who cares about the temp of the heater, anyway? I removed the glass and mounted a grill instead. What a difference! I wrote a blog post about it: bit.ly/2RuKwag
@@hermannschmidt9788 Don't put the TC underside, it is safer if the TC is reading the heater and not the spreading radiation of it. If for some reason the TC gets out of the way, you'll burn the board. Also if you read the temperature from the heater you'll have a more constant temperature, that's why i've put it on the bottom center of the heater. Also the TC should be close to the center of the heater, since your BGAs will be aligned by the center. "Who cares about the temp of the heater, anyway? " Your board should be at 150ºC (on top) before starting the top heater (and it should be there until the end of the profile), otherwise you'll destroy the board. Also make sure you bake the board at 110ºC before rework it, otherwise it will popcorn it. About your blog, damn mine were glued but not like that, that looks ugly. I Like your grill, looks way nicer, but rise it so it takes less time to heat the board. I'm about to add more heaters on the bottom (still thinking about it), this one is too small for bigger boards like game consoles. Nice work pal!!!
@@FixDaily I saw that you glued the thermocoupler with the aluminum tape. I think I have the same tape (it came with the station, right?). This one comes off at 90°C! I don't think it can handle 250 from the heater. Maybe there are high temp glues available somewhere. I cannot imagine any safe method for attaching the thermocoupler besides some mechanical trick. Unfortunately, there is no way to drill a hole into the heater ceramic. Nah, I rather keep it outside. From there it is possible to push the sensor through the grill on top of the heater. So I can measure either the heater temp or the board temp.
@@hermannschmidt9788 i'm not sure if i used the aluminum tape, but if i did, i used a better one because the one that came with it was too thin. There is no need to glue it since it's compressed to the glass fiber on the back of the heater. I didn't mention to drill a hole on the ceramic heater, i meant on the metallic bottom enclosure.
Thank you, What are the electronic components inside the ir6500 ? What I know so far is 1- PC410 PID temperature controller 2- Rex c-100 pid temperature controller 3- ssr Relay ( but how many relays ? 2 ? ) 4- k type thermocouple ( 2 or 1 ? ) 5- 180×180mm heating elements Are there more parts that I missed ? Thanks
1 - correct 2 - correct 3 - 2 SSR to control the bottom and top heater (PC410 controlls the top heater | Rex c-100 controls the bottom heater) 4 - Just one TC inside (type K) that connects to the Rex c-100 - the other TC is connected to PC410 from the outside. The inside TC is touching the bottom heater. 5 - Yes, but if you want to create your own reworksation i recommend you to use a bigger one or a few smaller ones There is also a circuit breaker on the back and a 230V fan to dissipate the heat from the bottom components
Hey, i actually just did this mod. However I did not have to drill any hole whatsoever. There is small gap where the ceramic conductor on the underside is. You can use this small space to reroute the sensor wire to the bottom plate as he explained. Truth be told, the original fixture of the sensor is outright ugly and pointless. And yea, either remove or replace ther glass with something else (Metallic grill). Removing the glass is also a pain in the ass.
@@FixDaily If an idea works its worth to be shared within the community. Of course credits and kudos to you! Plus with the default fixture can mess up the desoldering process because of low temperature (Pads ripping, board warping).
@@FixDaily Yeh I thought so too :D, this may be the reason people say the board doesn't heat as much too, because it heats until it reads the required temperature, but obviously underneath the pad may get to 220c fairly quickly, whereas the board at the same time may only be 120c or 130c, however as the probes read the right temperature its now probably going to limit any further rise in temperature.
Hi, there's no extra screws you need, just remove the top glass and if possible add a mesh where the glass use to be. This avoids stuff falling directly onto the heater to avoid burning and extra smells. Make sure you don't breath the nasty smokes of your fluxes - take care. Have a great day
@@FixDaily hi it’s just that the 4 that holds the hot plate looks as if they were changed so I just need to get some nuts thanks again buddy oh when’s the next video coming out
If you are able to add more heaters that would be great for bigger boards. Replacing the original by 3 other ones with the same area, might end up doing the same. It depends how far the heating lines are and the quality of the heaters. If you are willing to reball, make sure the boards are the size of your heater, bigger boards might end up bent. Graphic cards and some small laptop boards will work fine for this machine. If you want a bigger surface, you can buy a pre.heater (for example: T-8280) and hack it with parts of this machine.
Great Tip you saved me because i was ready to broke it as i damaged 3 mainboards. Do you know how long does it take to reach the 150 on top in seconds? How log have you add to your profiles? Thanks!
It still takes quite long time to reach the 150ºC on top, about 10minutes but at least it reaches the temperature. I have to buy a larger pre-heater and make a modification to this bottom heater because is too small. A friend of mine told me that i should read 5 points: Center and all the sides of the board and none of them should get different more than 10ºC comparing to others, and with such a small pre-heater it is not possible, at least to motherboards. Graphic cards work better but laptop or desktop motherboards are no good, they return all bowed because the heat are not even :\ Thinking on buying a PUHUI T8280 pre-heater and adapt the top heater and the controllers, maybe for a future project Also don't forget to remove the moister from the boards, otherwise BGA's will all pop-corn, that's the most common problem you can get.
FixDaily - Electronic repairs, hacks and tips mine gets about 6 minutes to go at 150 C and i tried 3 motherboards today and removed gradic cards without any problem as till yesterday i was damaging them. It is very intersted with a bigger preheater if you try this sure i want to know your tests. Do you have a skype to speak more private and ask you some things? If you have search and add allrepair greece. You mean that motherboards return damaged after reballing?
@@nikosxatzikonstantinou1198 Hi, i still haven't used my rework station that much and all the stuff I've removed i pop corned it, and i still haven't got back to it although i have a lot of scrap boards for testing. I was using it as a pre-heater for mobile phones until i have bought a small pre-heater, now is aside until i get back to it. Some folks told me that this one i have is no good and i'll have trouble bending boards (because of bad temperature spreading), and in fact my popcorned board tests are bent. Sorry i can't add you on skype I'm afraid I'm no good for giving advice on how to use it more than what I've published on youtube. Also i have no time now, i'm moving into a new life. What i can promise you is that when i have success i'll post it on my channel how to work with it. Also if i buy a pre-heater to hack this station i'll post it (how I've done it) here as well. My time is so short that i already have a new video to edit and it's half way done :\
FixDaily - Electronic repairs, hacks and tips no problem,i will give you soon my infos of my tests at motherboards i hope. When you used it for mobile phones you did not used the upper heater and only the preheater? And which small preheater did you buy for phones because this also interest me.
@@nikosxatzikonstantinou1198 if you could share your experience i would appreciate it since is knowledge please let me know :) I have disconnected to top heater for phones. This is the one i have bought ebay.to/2G8VRGf i made some holes and taped the same screw threads that i had on my IR6500 board holder so i'm using those adjustable holders on my pre-heater as well
Hi.. I have a one like this but not working the upside temp controller not showing any degree and the lower temp controller work and the white heater working good please help.. Achi not heat 😔 the fan of achi work And I tested all by avometer joined successfully
Could you share the dimensions of all part i have the hardwares but not the skeleton. Im gonna cut with the laser to make it copy of the machine. But all my measurements are hypothetical. So i wanna know the dimensions of the all parts if it possible of course.Thanks for video also.
@@FixDaily yeah im making my own but idont know the dimensions any part Could you talk to me personally and tell me the dimensions of all the pieces if possible of course it would be perfect for me.
A si es mejoro la subida el vidrio limita mucho algun perfil para ps3 amigo puedes hacer un tutorial mostrando el perfil y paso a paso de hacer un reballing a una ps3 por favor !
You need to create your thermal profile. I can't give you my values because it depends on room temperature. Search for "solder thermal profile" and do some trial and error to proximate your thermal profile to the standard. Your graph needs to be close to the main one.
@@FixDaily entiendo, pero si as podido arreglar una consola de juegos como la xbox 360 o playstation 3 o algún tutotial haciéndole con tus propios perfiles a esas placas te lo agradecería un montón ya q no encuentro ningún video de una persona q haga reballing a una ps3 con esta maquina
@@princeabranz76 the dimension of a Playstation or Xbox console is higher than the heating plate. This rework station is good for graphic cards or some small laptop boards. Using it for consoles will afect the boards making them curved when cold.
It's not easy to see with one picture since the wiring is all mixed up. If you plan to make one i recommend you to look up online for a schematic wiring of the specific PID controller you are willing to use. Remember that you might or might not need an SSR, depending on the controller you are using
Good stuff. I bought a IR6500 today and quickly realized that the bottom heater is pretty much worthless. The board gets about 45°C warm with the heater on 200. It is practically not preheating at all! I'll remove the glass, too!
Yes the glass makes no sense, it takes a lot of heat because it's pretty thick. A lot of people remove it and put a net, but i like it this way so i can clean it if i need to.
When I've bought it, I tried to put it on the maximum temperature that the driver could handle, but it did no do much, i got the same result as you.
Now, at 250º C (in the summer) i can reach those 150º (on top of the board), and in the winter, i go with 350º and it works great.
Now take a look about thermal profiling, you need to configure your system to run a soldering profile (lead and lead-free solder has different melting temperatures), this machine is easier because it has only one TC for controlling the whole thing.
Good luck :)
@@FixDaily I opened the thing up today. They glued the temp sensor on top of the heater element!! Can you believe this? Ridiculous. Of course it was already coming off. I removed it and routed it to the outside so that I can attach it to the underside of the PCBs. Who cares about the temp of the heater, anyway? I removed the glass and mounted a grill instead. What a difference! I wrote a blog post about it: bit.ly/2RuKwag
@@hermannschmidt9788 Don't put the TC underside, it is safer if the TC is reading the heater and not the spreading radiation of it. If for some reason the TC gets out of the way, you'll burn the board.
Also if you read the temperature from the heater you'll have a more constant temperature, that's why i've put it on the bottom center of the heater.
Also the TC should be close to the center of the heater, since your BGAs will be aligned by the center.
"Who cares about the temp of the heater, anyway? "
Your board should be at 150ºC (on top) before starting the top heater (and it should be there until the end of the profile), otherwise you'll destroy the board. Also make sure you bake the board at 110ºC before rework it, otherwise it will popcorn it.
About your blog, damn mine were glued but not like that, that looks ugly.
I Like your grill, looks way nicer, but rise it so it takes less time to heat the board.
I'm about to add more heaters on the bottom (still thinking about it), this one is too small for bigger boards like game consoles.
Nice work pal!!!
@@FixDaily I saw that you glued the thermocoupler with the aluminum tape. I think I have the same tape (it came with the station, right?). This one comes off at 90°C! I don't think it can handle 250 from the heater. Maybe there are high temp glues available somewhere. I cannot imagine any safe method for attaching the thermocoupler besides some mechanical trick. Unfortunately, there is no way to drill a hole into the heater ceramic. Nah, I rather keep it outside. From there it is possible to push the sensor through the grill on top of the heater. So I can measure either the heater temp or the board temp.
@@hermannschmidt9788 i'm not sure if i used the aluminum tape, but if i did, i used a better one because the one that came with it was too thin.
There is no need to glue it since it's compressed to the glass fiber on the back of the heater.
I didn't mention to drill a hole on the ceramic heater, i meant on the metallic bottom enclosure.
Thank you,
What are the electronic components inside the ir6500 ?
What I know so far is
1- PC410 PID temperature controller
2- Rex c-100 pid temperature controller
3- ssr Relay ( but how many relays ? 2 ? )
4- k type thermocouple ( 2 or 1 ? )
5- 180×180mm heating elements
Are there more parts that I missed ?
Thanks
1 - correct
2 - correct
3 - 2 SSR to control the bottom and top heater (PC410 controlls the top heater | Rex c-100 controls the bottom heater)
4 - Just one TC inside (type K) that connects to the Rex c-100 - the other TC is connected to PC410 from the outside. The inside TC is touching the bottom heater.
5 - Yes, but if you want to create your own reworksation i recommend you to use a bigger one or a few smaller ones
There is also a circuit breaker on the back and a 230V fan to dissipate the heat from the bottom components
Hey, i actually just did this mod. However I did not have to drill any hole whatsoever. There is small gap where the ceramic conductor on the underside is. You can use this small space to reroute the sensor wire to the bottom plate as he explained.
Truth be told, the original fixture of the sensor is outright ugly and pointless. And yea, either remove or replace ther glass with something else (Metallic grill). Removing the glass is also a pain in the ass.
Yest it has a lot of nuts to be removed, it takes time :D thanks for your time sharing your thoughts
@@FixDaily If an idea works its worth to be shared within the community. Of course credits and kudos to you! Plus with the default fixture can mess up the desoldering process because of low temperature (Pads ripping, board warping).
would it not be better to put the temperature probe underneath the board your working on similar to the top, instead of underneath the cermaic heater?
Yes, that is a great idea. Some heaters already implement that
@@FixDaily Yeh I thought so too :D, this may be the reason people say the board doesn't heat as much too, because it heats until it reads the required temperature, but obviously underneath the pad may get to 220c fairly quickly, whereas the board at the same time may only be 120c or 130c, however as the probes read the right temperature its now probably going to limit any further rise in temperature.
@@gampo2 well the glass is very further away from the heater and it blocks a lot of the heat.
Amigo as un tutorial de lo que hiciste porque no se ve como pusiste la termocupla , tengo la misma maquina y le cuesta subir al precalentador
I made a hole in the bottom and i placed the thermocouple bellow the heater.
Hi fantastic video ordered mine the other day can I ask what size screws did you have to get just so I can order in advance
Hi, there's no extra screws you need, just remove the top glass and if possible add a mesh where the glass use to be. This avoids stuff falling directly onto the heater to avoid burning and extra smells.
Make sure you don't breath the nasty smokes of your fluxes - take care.
Have a great day
@@FixDaily thanks for the prompt response I’ve enjoyed all of your videos I hope you do more
@@FixDaily hi it’s just that the 4 that holds the hot plate looks as if they were changed so I just need to get some nuts thanks again buddy oh when’s the next video coming out
Hi have you bothered to increase the lower ir heater panels for the 220mm x 80 x 3’s or have you just kept it original except for these mods
If you are able to add more heaters that would be great for bigger boards. Replacing the original by 3 other ones with the same area, might end up doing the same.
It depends how far the heating lines are and the quality of the heaters.
If you are willing to reball, make sure the boards are the size of your heater, bigger boards might end up bent.
Graphic cards and some small laptop boards will work fine for this machine.
If you want a bigger surface, you can buy a pre.heater (for example: T-8280) and hack it with parts of this machine.
Great Tip you saved me because i was ready to broke it as i damaged 3 mainboards. Do you know how long does it take to reach the 150 on top in seconds? How log have you add to your profiles? Thanks!
It still takes quite long time to reach the 150ºC on top, about 10minutes but at least it reaches the temperature.
I have to buy a larger pre-heater and make a modification to this bottom heater because is too small.
A friend of mine told me that i should read 5 points: Center and all the sides of the board and none of them should get different more than 10ºC comparing to others, and with such a small pre-heater it is not possible, at least to motherboards. Graphic cards work better but laptop or desktop motherboards are no good, they return all bowed because the heat are not even :\
Thinking on buying a PUHUI T8280 pre-heater and adapt the top heater and the controllers, maybe for a future project
Also don't forget to remove the moister from the boards, otherwise BGA's will all pop-corn, that's the most common problem you can get.
FixDaily - Electronic repairs, hacks and tips mine gets about 6 minutes to go at 150 C and i tried 3 motherboards today and removed gradic cards without any problem as till yesterday i was damaging them. It is very intersted with a bigger preheater if you try this sure i want to know your tests. Do you have a skype to speak more private and ask you some things? If you have search and add allrepair greece. You mean that motherboards return damaged after reballing?
@@nikosxatzikonstantinou1198 Hi, i still haven't used my rework station that much and all the stuff I've removed i pop corned it, and i still haven't got back to it although i have a lot of scrap boards for testing. I was using it as a pre-heater for mobile phones until i have bought a small pre-heater, now is aside until i get back to it.
Some folks told me that this one i have is no good and i'll have trouble bending boards (because of bad temperature spreading), and in fact my popcorned board tests are bent.
Sorry i can't add you on skype I'm afraid I'm no good for giving advice on how to use it more than what I've published on youtube. Also i have no time now, i'm moving into a new life. What i can promise you is that when i have success i'll post it on my channel how to work with it. Also if i buy a pre-heater to hack this station i'll post it (how I've done it) here as well.
My time is so short that i already have a new video to edit and it's half way done :\
FixDaily - Electronic repairs, hacks and tips no problem,i will give you soon my infos of my tests at motherboards i hope. When you used it for mobile phones you did not used the upper heater and only the preheater? And which small preheater did you buy for phones because this also interest me.
@@nikosxatzikonstantinou1198 if you could share your experience i would appreciate it since is knowledge please let me know :)
I have disconnected to top heater for phones.
This is the one i have bought ebay.to/2G8VRGf i made some holes and taped the same screw threads that i had on my IR6500 board holder so i'm using those adjustable holders on my pre-heater as well
Hi.. I have a one like this but not working the upside temp controller not showing any degree and the lower temp controller work and the white heater working good please help.. Achi not heat 😔 the fan of achi work And I tested all by avometer joined successfully
Make sure the SSR is connected to the top heater.
Could you share the dimensions of all part i have the hardwares but not the skeleton. Im gonna cut with the laser to make it copy of the machine.
But all my measurements are hypothetical. So i wanna know the dimensions of the all parts if it possible of course.Thanks for video also.
If you are making your own, make room for more heating plates not just one
@@FixDaily yeah im making my own but idont know the dimensions any part Could you talk to me personally and tell me the dimensions of all the pieces if possible of course it would be perfect for me.
A si es mejoro la subida el vidrio limita mucho algun perfil para ps3 amigo puedes hacer un tutorial mostrando el perfil y paso a paso de hacer un reballing a una ps3 por favor !
You need to create your thermal profile. I can't give you my values because it depends on room temperature.
Search for "solder thermal profile" and do some trial and error to proximate your thermal profile to the standard. Your graph needs to be close to the main one.
@@FixDaily entiendo, pero si as podido arreglar una consola de juegos como la xbox 360 o playstation 3 o algún tutotial haciéndole con tus propios perfiles a esas placas te lo agradecería un montón ya q no encuentro ningún video de una persona q haga reballing a una ps3 con esta maquina
@@princeabranz76 the dimension of a Playstation or Xbox console is higher than the heating plate. This rework station is good for graphic cards or some small laptop boards. Using it for consoles will afect the boards making them curved when cold.
post picture wiring on pid controler
It's not easy to see with one picture since the wiring is all mixed up.
If you plan to make one i recommend you to look up online for a schematic wiring of the specific PID controller you are willing to use.
Remember that you might or might not need an SSR, depending on the controller you are using
Also there are 2 controllers, one that only heast the bottom plate, and the other one that heats by following a temperature profile.
Hi pro
Please profiles for PS3 RSX.CEL & PS4 WORKS GREAT with Ir 6500 🙏