This was my first ever reloading tool. That was 7 years ago and I still use it when I feel lazy on a rainy or snow day watching a movie. Since then I now have the bench system .I still use LEE and always will , good stuff and it works.
This was excellent!! Just what I was looking for. As a woman who wants to start reloading, I had heard of the Lee hand press and I wanted to learn more. The guys at Cabela's couldn't help me. One guy said they sold them but couldn't find one. The other guy spoke so far over my head I got lost. Your vid was easy to understand and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to make it :)
I live in an apartment and use the same setup. It's convenient to sit on the couch while sizing brass, or priming. I also like the feel of the hand press when going through the process of loading. In addition to the Lee, I also have some L.E. Wilson hand dies with an arbor press. Great stuff, especially if you are limited when it comes to space. All of my ammo shoots well.
Thx for making this video, only thing I wish is that your hands stayed in the video all the time to be able to see everything, ie, changing dies, screwing and unscrewing all dies and all processes. The beginner MUST see all steps at all times in order to get better grip on the use of this press. Cheers
Thank you for the video. My fiancé and I are getting into shooting more and more. Currently we go to range about 3 times a month and down about 300-500 rounds a month. I hate having to look for rounds and Walmart and really considering buying a press.
Reloading components (primers, powders, and bullets) are slowly starting to become available again. This hand press with pistol caliber rounds will get you started. It's not fast but it can produce some quality ammo. Check out my other vids where I reload using a progressive press. Thanks for watching!
Appreciate your video. Already knew but its nice to just refresh, compare how other ppl do it, & for new shooters im sure this helps immensely. Sometimes you just gotta watch someone do it first.
Great video. you explained it all. Good camera work, no crazy sounds or music. Just the facts to safely do it with sound advice. Just getting started with reloading and a forum member is passing a hand press on to me. This video really explained it all and I will be starting with 45acp an then to 10mm. Hopefully I really enjoy the hobby and move on to a bench press and load all of my other rounds. But the hand press should be fun to do work while relaxing. Not worried about speed more than making sure I get it right. Thanks for sharing.
Yep. Same way I started. Pistol rounds a pretty easy and you have a lot of room for error. A good place to start as you'll get used to the process and using the tools before moving to rifle rounds.
Good point. I keep them on my computer so I don't forget what loads I already tried. The loads I actually made in the video were too light. They still cycled the slide but the shells were ejecting straight up and only a few inches from the breech.
Wow, I've been shooting for 60 years, including reloading quite a bit of .45 acp ammo, and I did not know that .45 acp brass comes with two different sized primer holes.
I'm not sure when the small primer brass came out, but I know it hasn't been out for near as long as large primer stuff. It's a real pain in the ass too sort.
It depends on caliber and dies you use. The .223 dies are "full length" resizing dies because they push the case from the inside. The pistol caliber dies do resize the whole case, but not entirely the same as the rifle dies.
TIP Every once in a while I spray the press moving parts with some silicone Spray and buff it in with a lint free cloth your press action will work more smoother when using etc Works for me." Thanks for sharing etc.
Since the .45 ACP is rimless, it is designed to headspace on the mouth of the case in the Colt's model 1911. That being the case, crimping with a collet-type die is neither recommended, nor desired. If you feel the need to 'crimp' to straighten out overzealous belling, then a special taper-crimp die is available for that purpose.
@@bbowling4979 Lee's factory crimp die is designed to crimp solidly into a crimping groove on a bullet that has one. It is a collet type of die that actually turns the mouth of the case into a groove in the bullet's cannelure. A specialized taper-crimp die, available from RCBS & possibly others, gently tapers the portion of the case at the depth of the seated bullet, but does not turn the front edge of the case into a groove in the bullet. Since the 1911 Browning/Colt design head-spaces on the mouth of the brass case, turning the case mouth into a groove is counterproductive to chambering-depth, reliability and accuracy....that is avoidable by relying on the full friction-fit of a taper crimp, rather than the mechanical-fit of the 'factory crimp' which varies from case to case, unless all of your reloadable brass is EXACTLY the same length and thickness. If you shoot mixed lots/brands of brass as one, they will all shoot differently. Try running a test over a chronograph to see what I’m trying so feebly to explain.😂
@@craigoldsen1667 Thanks for the reply and that makes sense. Looking back at the documentation that came with my factory crimp dies, they just say that "the crimp is correct for the cartridge". How can I tell if it's applying a roll crimp or a taper crimp? Just by inspection?
@@bbowling4979 that's what I'd do....just inspect the resulting crimp that the present die provides. I've always been an adherent of the old rule of "If it ain’t broke; don’t fix it."
FirearmTutorials .com Thanks for the reply. Have tried my hand at shotgun shell reloading but I'm just getting into handgun and rifle ammo reloading. Picked up a hand press for $7 at a garage sale but no dies.
Trial and error, but you'll be able to see it when you get enough. There won't be as much of a "ridge" between the bullet and case wall. You'll probably have a nice thin shiny brass ring where the crimp collet presses into the brass. Just don't over do it. You'll know if you do because it will look smashed into the bullet.
[ 15:12 - 15:59 ]Seating the bullets deeper than the given OAL in the load data increases the pressure. So it would be better to make longer rounds as opposed to shorter ones (so long as they will still chamber without touching the lands, which can cause over pressure as well). This is why they give OAL in the load data. Factory ammo usually is not loaded to the max charge load so being a tad shorter may not hurt so much, but if one is loading at max then they should pay attention as to what the load data says. That goes for the powder charge too. Better to be OCD as oppose to going about reloading willy nilly like.
From a cost perspective, and because I can no longer have a full reloading work area, and have not had occasion to reload .45acp before, can you tell me your cost (low and high average) to produce 50-rds of .45acp? Thanks and thank you for the video.
I'm loading .45ACP with plated bullets for ~$.20/round with free brass by picking them up at my local range. I'm using a progressive press now but I still use the hand press to test new powders and calibers.
Thank you for the reply. I am asking because I like the idea of sitting outside or watching TV while doing some case re-conditioning and this lee portable press looks really cool. I also like the Lyman 310. However, I'd like to shoot my reloads from my .357 pistol and .357 rifle without having to distinguish the two. Reloading a round that can be re-fired in either. It seems as the Lyman unfortunately will not do as it only neck sizes. Do you think this will work for this application?
Cool username. I'd say they performed as well as factory ammo for their intended purpose of shooting paper at 15 yards. I wouldn't rely on this method for shooting groups at 100 yds, but this press will work just fine otherwise.
@@FirearmTutorials Ha! Thanks... Teaching is the best way I can pay it forward from all who have taught me. Thanks to you...I will be ordering this press tonight. I have been wanting to reload for quite some time. You made it clear and concise in your video. Thank you for taking the time. I am looking forward to getting started.
@@firearmsinstructor320 Glad I could help. Start with something like 45 or 9mm. Those are pretty hard to screw up. Something like .223 or .308 in the hand press will be a bear but doable to get you comfortable before going to a dedicated single stage or progressive press.
This video is several years old back when this press as like $20-25. to day they are $35-40. For that price, you're better off with a lee loader since it's a single stage bench mounted press for same or lower price. Naturally, you're gonna throw powder all over the place if you throw powder when you expand the case since your press is not mounted solid. Not a problem with the reloader. If you don't have a place to mount or just want a hand press, then knock yourself out. Also, get a hand primer, much better then the ram prime.
First time I heard "belling" instead of taper. Was confused at first. BTW, yes use the lube for rifle brass. Spent 30 minutes pulling out a .223 round because I didn't use lube.
Tell me about it. I have a kit zip tied together with a washer, screw, drill bit and tap. I've only had to use it a few times, but it's a bitch when you get one stuck.
For pistol rounds not so much. Rifle rounds yes. Remember to lube the cases for rifle rounds. It's a must! Not just to make it a little easier to re-size, but to prevent them from getting stuck in the die. That's a real PITA!
@@FirearmTutorials thanks. So far in my area (Italy) I have just found the press with nothing else. I will look further and see if I find a kit. Greets from the land of Mr. Beretta and Mr. Franchi.
What's your opinion with a Lee collett die? I'm brand new to reloading, appreciated your video in going through all the steps clearly. I am intending to get the Lee hand loader and the collett die seemed to be an elegant alternative to resizing (will be for a single rifle).
+Jason Lome I've never messed with them as I don't have any bolt guns. The concept seems good but I'd rather stick with the tried and true method. If you are going to reload rifle rounds and are new to it, make sure to get yourself a case gauge and case mouth gauge. Those are two cheap components that will save you a lot of wasted reloading components. See my other vids about these two things.
+FirearmTutorials .com The Lee Collett Neck-Sizing Die is a tried and true method for reloading brass fired in only one rifle. Most of my guns with typical factory chambers and running full-house loads needed the shoulders bumped every 2-3 firings so I just find a better way (for me). I had the best luck with Lee Collet dies on the first reload of a batch of once fired brass from my guns. After that first batch accuracy in subsequent reloads usually got worse. Guys dedicated to using the Lee Collet die should buy a Redding body-die and bump the shoulder .001"-.002" each time you reload. That should leave you with the best possible consistency using the Lee Collet dies. I now use Forster FL dies with the necks honed out for .0015 neck tension. I can do everything EXACTLY the same each time and get excellent brass life bumping the shoulder .001" each time.
Brian N. I’ll try to find a link but it’s late right now. The lee hand loader i think it’s called. There is a link to the quick connects. You set your dies in the quick connects and leave them there. When you need to change to the next die ( because it’s a single stage press) you just plug in the quick connect and the die is already set.
I love watches. I have 3 Luminox watches and they are junk. $300+ and they don't even have a sapphire crystal. I think I'm going to sell all 3 of them and buy another tag.
xtremebullets used to have great black friday sales. I would stock up for the year. They have bullets in stock but they are expensive. Primers... forget it. The only thing I can find is 50 BMG. Primers are selling for CRAZY $$$ on gunbroker right now. Your best bet is to get on Midway's alert list and try to buy them once they come back in stock. FYI, I'm sure there are A LOT of people on that list...
Not that it matters a whole lot, but I wouldn't develop a load in spp brass and then go and load a bunch in lpp brass. You will see a 20-30fps increase when going from a spp to a Lpp.
I know that tbh I would feel perfectly loading a max book load of longshot or power pistol(hot powders) with a magnum lpp without any load workup. 45 is such a low pressure cartridge and there is a lot of wiggle room built into book data. Safety isn't the issue. The issue is going through the work of doing a ladder test/load workup only to change your components once you pick your most accurate load. Your most accurate load could very well turn into your second most accurate load when you change the primer size. going to a LPP equates to adding .2gr of powder in most cases.
Isn't that the truth. I'd love to have one of the auto dispensing ones but could never bring myself to pay the $300+ for one. I've tried the manual ones but they don't see to work as well.
The Lee Classic Loader ( hand loader ) is the most basic way to reload. I'd say this is the second most basic way to reload. th-cam.com/video/rMa4FErgWYg/w-d-xo.html
No offense meant but your camera is so close you can't see half the activity. It's off camera. Next video back your camera up and take your time. It's a tutorial.
Forgive me, but very disappointed when you used 'bullets' when describing the operation of the resizing and decapping die. Perhaps it was a slip? Otherwise, thank you for educating folks as to the utility of the little hand press.
you don't realize how much more power a large primer has. You do anything that pushes higher pressures youll be over pressure real quick. it highly effects the pressure curve as well as more powder from the primer itself. ticking time bombs in ur hands.
Can you please remake this video with your hands and the press in the center. I felt like I watched your scale, the back of your hand or your hand shadow work.... WTH?!. Yes you would give some views but NOT enough, and you sound like you hate this... ?DO OVER PLEASE.
Sometimes I wonder how certain people survive in this world. For example, this guy must have such diminished cognition that is either is incapable of keeping the object of the video (the hand loader) in the camera frame or he doesn't even know that he needs to do that for us to see the hand loader in the video. Furthermore, after completing the video either he didn't think to preview it before posting it or he did preview it and didn't notice the problem and posted it anyway, or he did notice the problem and still posted it. How do you post a video when everything you want us to see is out of the camera frame? How do some people manage to survive in this world.
not only did you take the time to watch the video, but you also took the time to write a whiney comment. I bet you're just a blast to be around and can do everything at a professional level huh sport?
What you are doing is VERY unsafe / dangerous in an tutorial video for beginners. Every powdercharge should be over 50% of the shellvolume to avoid overpressure and doublefilling. You should use an other powder.
This was my first ever reloading tool. That was 7 years ago and I still use it when I feel lazy on a rainy or snow day watching a movie. Since then I now have the bench system .I still use LEE and always will , good stuff and it works.
I'm glad you actually showed the primer tool, a part usually substituted with a hand primer
Yea, it's not the fastest, but at least it does the job. Thanks for watching.
That's the reason I came
This was excellent!! Just what I was looking for. As a woman who wants to start reloading, I had heard of the Lee hand press and I wanted to learn more. The guys at Cabela's couldn't help me. One guy said they sold them but couldn't find one. The other guy spoke so far over my head I got lost. Your vid was easy to understand and easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to make it :)
Agreed. He explained and showed it very well. :)
Cabelas overall as well as any other big box made in china outdoor store sucks.....I guess that's too obvious, haha!
fix your hair.
Yea, it took a while for me to get the footage together but I figured it was worth it to show from start to finish.
I live in an apartment and use the same setup. It's convenient to sit on the couch while sizing brass, or priming. I also like the feel of the hand press when going through the process of loading. In addition to the Lee, I also have some L.E. Wilson hand dies with an arbor press. Great stuff, especially if you are limited when it comes to space. All of my ammo shoots well.
Great video, thanks. Considering this press as an entry into reloading.
Yes. It's a great way to start reloading and learn the basics. Really makes you appreciate progressive presses! Thanks for watching!
Thx for making this video, only thing I wish is that your hands stayed in the video all the time to be able to see everything, ie, changing dies, screwing and unscrewing all dies and all processes. The beginner MUST see all steps at all times in order to get better grip on the use of this press. Cheers
Thank you for the video. My fiancé and I are getting into shooting more and more. Currently we go to range about 3 times a month and down about 300-500 rounds a month. I hate having to look for rounds and Walmart and really considering buying a press.
Reloading components (primers, powders, and bullets) are slowly starting to become available again. This hand press with pistol caliber rounds will get you started. It's not fast but it can produce some quality ammo. Check out my other vids where I reload using a progressive press. Thanks for watching!
Appreciate your video. Already knew but its nice to just refresh, compare how other ppl do it, & for new shooters im sure this helps immensely. Sometimes you just gotta watch someone do it first.
great informational video you did an awesome teaching job!
Too much of the action is happening out of range of the camera.
Great video. you explained it all. Good camera work, no crazy sounds or music. Just the facts to safely do it with sound advice. Just getting started with reloading and a forum member is passing a hand press on to me. This video really explained it all and I will be starting with 45acp an then to 10mm. Hopefully I really enjoy the hobby and move on to a bench press and load all of my other rounds. But the hand press should be fun to do work while relaxing. Not worried about speed more than making sure I get it right.
Thanks for sharing.
Yep. Same way I started. Pistol rounds a pretty easy and you have a lot of room for error. A good place to start as you'll get used to the process and using the tools before moving to rifle rounds.
Good point. I keep them on my computer so I don't forget what loads I already tried. The loads I actually made in the video were too light. They still cycled the slide but the shells were ejecting straight up and only a few inches from the breech.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Great video . Thanks for going over this press in some detail
Looking get into reloading on a tight budget and I'm low on space for a bench type.
Wow, I've been shooting for 60 years, including reloading quite a bit of .45 acp ammo, and I did not know that .45 acp brass comes with two different sized primer holes.
I'm not sure when the small primer brass came out, but I know it hasn't been out for near as long as large primer stuff. It's a real pain in the ass too sort.
Thanks for the video, also don't forget to keep a log of your reloading.
Good information. Should do some more recent videos!!!
I love the hand press... something about laying in bed, depriming and resizing....
Just got one today, easy to learn and use
It depends on caliber and dies you use. The .223 dies are "full length" resizing dies because they push the case from the inside. The pistol caliber dies do resize the whole case, but not entirely the same as the rifle dies.
Really appreciate this video! Thanks a lot!
TIP Every once in a while I spray the press moving parts with some silicone Spray and buff it in with a lint free cloth your press action will work more smoother when using etc Works for me." Thanks for sharing etc.
Yes, go with the Lee press. It will work for the 357 just fine. I've even done .223 with it.
Very interesting. Thank you for the video!
Since the .45 ACP is rimless, it is designed to headspace on the mouth of the case in the Colt's model 1911. That being the case, crimping with a collet-type die is neither recommended, nor desired. If you feel the need to 'crimp' to straighten out overzealous belling, then a special taper-crimp die is available for that purpose.
I believe that the factory crimp die that comes in the Lee sets is a taper crimp die for the cartridges that need it.
@@bbowling4979 Lee's factory crimp die is designed to crimp solidly into a crimping groove on a bullet that has one. It is a collet type of die that actually turns the mouth of the case into a groove in the bullet's cannelure. A specialized taper-crimp die, available from RCBS & possibly others, gently tapers the portion of the case at the depth of the seated bullet, but does not turn the front edge of the case into a groove in the bullet. Since the 1911 Browning/Colt design head-spaces on the mouth of the brass case, turning the case mouth into a groove is counterproductive to chambering-depth, reliability and accuracy....that is avoidable by relying on the full friction-fit of a taper crimp, rather than the mechanical-fit of the 'factory crimp' which varies from case to case, unless all of your reloadable brass is EXACTLY the same length and thickness. If you shoot mixed lots/brands of brass as one, they will all shoot differently. Try running a test over a chronograph to see what I’m trying so feebly to explain.😂
@@craigoldsen1667 Thanks for the reply and that makes sense. Looking back at the documentation that came with my factory crimp dies, they just say that "the crimp is correct for the cartridge". How can I tell if it's applying a roll crimp or a taper crimp? Just by inspection?
@@bbowling4979 that's what I'd do....just inspect the resulting crimp that the present die provides. I've always been an adherent of the old rule of "If it ain’t broke; don’t fix it."
Fantastic tutorial, thanks!!
Your sizing die should touch, then a 1/4" more turn. There should be no gap.
He's using a carbide die. You don't want to impact the base of those dies. They can crack from repeatedly striking the ram. Space is good.
Thank you for making the video. Do you know if you can use the dies you use in the hand press in the turret and progressive presses.
Yes, I'm actually using these same dies in my Dillon 650.
FirearmTutorials .com Thanks for the reply. Have tried my hand at shotgun shell reloading but I'm just getting into handgun and rifle ammo reloading. Picked up a hand press for $7 at a garage sale but no dies.
Solid. The hand press is a great way to get into pistol calibers. Doesn't take a huge investment or a lot of room.
Yes
How do you determine the proper crimping setting?
Thanks
Trial and error, but you'll be able to see it when you get enough. There won't be as much of a "ridge" between the bullet and case wall. You'll probably have a nice thin shiny brass ring where the crimp collet presses into the brass. Just don't over do it. You'll know if you do because it will look smashed into the bullet.
Good video! Can a have press like this be used for shotgun shells?
Nope. Rifle or pistol only.
@@FirearmTutorials ok, thanks!
[ 15:12 - 15:59 ]Seating the bullets deeper than the given OAL in the load data increases the pressure. So it would be better to make longer rounds as opposed to shorter ones (so long as they will still chamber without touching the lands, which can cause over pressure as well). This is why they give OAL in the load data.
Factory ammo usually is not loaded to the max charge load so being a tad shorter may not hurt so much, but if one is loading at max then they should pay attention as to what the load data says. That goes for the powder charge too.
Better to be OCD as oppose to going about reloading willy nilly like.
Sizing recapping is returning brass to factory specs length circumference etc... The "roundness" happens along the way
From a cost perspective, and because I can no longer have a full reloading work area, and have not had occasion to reload .45acp before, can you tell me your cost (low and high average) to produce 50-rds of .45acp? Thanks and thank you for the video.
I'm loading .45ACP with plated bullets for ~$.20/round with free brass by picking them up at my local range. I'm using a progressive press now but I still use the hand press to test new powders and calibers.
Thanks!
Thank you for the reply. I am asking because I like the idea of sitting outside or watching TV while doing some case re-conditioning and this lee portable press looks really cool. I also like the Lyman 310. However, I'd like to shoot my reloads from my .357 pistol and .357 rifle without having to distinguish the two. Reloading a round that can be re-fired in either. It seems as the Lyman unfortunately will not do as it only neck sizes. Do you think this will work for this application?
What is the little metal cup called that you have on your scale? I've been trying to get one but i dont know what they are called.
scale pan.
Curious to know how well those rounds performed.
Cool username. I'd say they performed as well as factory ammo for their intended purpose of shooting paper at 15 yards. I wouldn't rely on this method for shooting groups at 100 yds, but this press will work just fine otherwise.
@@FirearmTutorials Ha! Thanks... Teaching is the best way I can pay it forward from all who have taught me. Thanks to you...I will be ordering this press tonight. I have been wanting to reload for quite some time. You made it clear and concise in your video. Thank you for taking the time. I am looking forward to getting started.
@@firearmsinstructor320 Glad I could help. Start with something like 45 or 9mm. Those are pretty hard to screw up. Something like .223 or .308 in the hand press will be a bear but doable to get you comfortable before going to a dedicated single stage or progressive press.
@@firearmsinstructor320 So how did it end up going? Still using the hand press?
Thanks for the video. Do you check overall length on each round or just the first one or two to check that you're "on"?
That depends if you trim your brass the same size. If you do then you can but I’d still check em
This video is several years old back when this press as like $20-25. to day they are $35-40. For that price, you're better off with a lee loader since it's a single stage bench mounted press for same or lower price. Naturally, you're gonna throw powder all over the place if you throw powder when you expand the case since your press is not mounted solid. Not a problem with the reloader. If you don't have a place to mount or just want a hand press, then knock yourself out. Also, get a hand primer, much better then the ram prime.
*than* lol
You should see it now in Jan 2021 if you can even find one for sale.
First time I heard "belling" instead of taper. Was confused at first. BTW, yes use the lube for rifle brass. Spent 30 minutes pulling out a .223 round because I didn't use lube.
Tell me about it. I have a kit zip tied together with a washer, screw, drill bit and tap. I've only had to use it a few times, but it's a bitch when you get one stuck.
does this re-loader size the entire case or only the neck? I think it must do the entire case, but I am not sure?
Can you use any brand of dies or do they have to be Lee brand? Thanks
Basically any dies. 7/8- 14 is the "standard" thread pitch. I haven't seen any dies not using 7/8- 14. Thanks for watching.
How is it resizing? I've heard alot of pressure is needed and may be hard on a hand press.
For pistol rounds not so much. Rifle rounds yes. Remember to lube the cases for rifle rounds. It's a must! Not just to make it a little easier to re-size, but to prevent them from getting stuck in the die. That's a real PITA!
that was very interesting. Thanks. Just one question: does the primer comes with the press or it is to be purchased separately?
The priming setup is part of the kit. It all comes together.
@@FirearmTutorials thanks. So far in my area (Italy) I have just found the press with nothing else. I will look further and see if I find a kit. Greets from the land of Mr. Beretta and Mr. Franchi.
7budfox older sets came without primer but you could get primer assembly.
The powder through dies do work well with bench mounted press. Your issues with powder scattering are directly related to using a hand press.
you are correct!
so does this load as accurately as normal presses. Can I use it for developing target loads?
What's your opinion with a Lee collett die? I'm brand new to reloading, appreciated your video in going through all the steps clearly. I am intending to get the Lee hand loader and the collett die seemed to be an elegant alternative to resizing (will be for a single rifle).
+Jason Lome I've never messed with them as I don't have any bolt guns. The concept seems good but I'd rather stick with the tried and true method. If you are going to reload rifle rounds and are new to it, make sure to get yourself a case gauge and case mouth gauge. Those are two cheap components that will save you a lot of wasted reloading components. See my other vids about these two things.
+FirearmTutorials .com The Lee Collett Neck-Sizing Die is a tried and true method for reloading brass fired in only one rifle. Most of my guns with typical factory chambers and running full-house loads needed the shoulders bumped every 2-3 firings so I just find a better way (for me).
I had the best luck with Lee Collet dies on the first reload of a batch of once fired brass from my guns. After that first batch accuracy in subsequent reloads usually got worse. Guys dedicated to using the Lee Collet die should buy a Redding body-die and bump the shoulder .001"-.002" each time you reload. That should leave you with the best possible consistency using the Lee Collet dies.
I now use Forster FL dies with the necks honed out for .0015 neck tension. I can do everything EXACTLY the same each time and get excellent brass life bumping the shoulder .001" each time.
Shouldn’t I adjust the die to be touching the case holder? Or a gap like he had is ok.
For pistol cases, a little gap is usually okay. That's more critical to rifle cases. Best bet it to check with a case gauge when setting dies.
The die set will come with instructions on how to initially set and adjust each die.
Could the 'Lee hand press' be used as a 'bullet puller' ?
Thank you.
MrROsbama no but a hammer type puller works great and their cheap.
They sell quick connections so you only set your die once and it never changes. And it's much faster.
Can you link these? I'm not sure what you mean
Brian N. I’ll try to find a link but it’s late right now. The lee hand loader i think it’s called. There is a link to the quick connects. You set your dies in the quick connects and leave them there. When you need to change to the next die ( because it’s a single stage press) you just plug in the quick connect and the die is already set.
Nice Tag watch, I have that same model.
I love watches. I have 3 Luminox watches and they are junk. $300+ and they don't even have a sapphire crystal. I think I'm going to sell all 3 of them and buy another tag.
To bad I can't find bullet's or primers
xtremebullets used to have great black friday sales. I would stock up for the year. They have bullets in stock but they are expensive. Primers... forget it. The only thing I can find is 50 BMG. Primers are selling for CRAZY $$$ on gunbroker right now. Your best bet is to get on Midway's alert list and try to buy them once they come back in stock. FYI, I'm sure there are A LOT of people on that list...
Not that it matters a whole lot, but I wouldn't develop a load in spp brass and then go and load a bunch in lpp brass. You will see a 20-30fps increase when going from a spp to a Lpp.
I agree with that. In this case, my load was so much under max it wouldn't matter.
I know that tbh I would feel perfectly loading a max book load of longshot or power pistol(hot powders) with a magnum lpp without any load workup. 45 is such a low pressure cartridge and there is a lot of wiggle room built into book data. Safety isn't the issue. The issue is going through the work of doing a ladder test/load workup only to change your components once you pick your most accurate load. Your most accurate load could very well turn into your second most accurate load when you change the primer size. going to a LPP equates to adding .2gr of powder in most cases.
Good point. I didn't even consider the ladder test since I don't do those with pistol calibers.
What is the brand/model of the scale ?
It's an older Dillon scale.
thank you for the post
Thanks for watching.
can you show how to do rifle loads.? On that hand press.?
+A REDTAIL I don't do all the steps you see in this video, but you can see me doing 300 blackout here:
th-cam.com/video/6s4Ho-8rmLw/w-d-xo.html
+FirearmTutorials .com Thanks that was a great help. Of what I was looking for etc.?
Powder tricklers are helpful
Isn't that the truth. I'd love to have one of the auto dispensing ones but could never bring myself to pay the $300+ for one. I've tried the manual ones but they don't see to work as well.
Thanks
In total how much money does this setup cost
midway usa has the hand press for $55 and lee die set usually run under $40
@@conleycan ok that's not to bad,thanks
@@noahbergman19 no problem bud
Get the Lee hand primer ... much, much faster.
Not suppose to handle the primers with your fingers. I was always told that.?
The Lee Classic Loader ( hand loader ) is the most basic way to reload. I'd say this is the second most basic way to reload.
th-cam.com/video/rMa4FErgWYg/w-d-xo.html
He keeps calling the brass case a bullet.
Use a trickler unit
I use one of those one time and I rip the head off with my bare hands
No offense meant but your camera is so close you can't see half the activity. It's off camera. Next video back your camera up and take your time. It's a tutorial.
Forgive me, but very disappointed when you used 'bullets' when describing the operation of the resizing and decapping die. Perhaps it was a slip? Otherwise, thank you for educating folks as to the utility of the little hand press.
Finlay a video that's simple
Testing with a small pistol primer, then using that weight and a large pistol primer is DANGEROUS!!!!!! don't do it EVER. you will blow up your gun.
+Mike Warren I do it all the time. No issues.
you don't realize how much more power a large primer has. You do anything that pushes higher pressures youll be over pressure real quick. it highly effects the pressure curve as well as more powder from the primer itself.
ticking time bombs in ur hands.
I'll have to chrono them side by side but I've noticed no difference. Even a UMP which has a plastic receiver.
its not about that alone. the primer messes with the power curve. youll use a new powder that is a faster burning powder and will not see it coming.
Interesting. So you're saying I could get an increase in pressure but not see any change in velocity?
out of camera view, I am deaf and need to see it
Can you please remake this video with your hands and the press in the center. I felt like I watched your scale, the back of your hand or your hand shadow work.... WTH?!. Yes you would give some views but NOT enough, and you sound like you hate this... ?DO OVER PLEASE.
you are out of frame. you mean to say flared
To much of seeing the scale through the vid.
sorry but your way to measure the powder is really ridiculous. ..
+Mil Dot Yea, it's really slow. Like I said, if I want speed I use the Dillon 650.
Yea, it's your best bet for getting into reloading on the cheap. You can still make decent ammo with it.
Sometimes I wonder how certain people survive in this world. For example, this guy must have such diminished cognition that is either is incapable of keeping the object of the video (the hand loader) in the camera frame or he doesn't even know that he needs to do that for us to see the hand loader in the video. Furthermore, after completing the video either he didn't think to preview it before posting it or he did preview it and didn't notice the problem and posted it anyway, or he did notice the problem and still posted it. How do you post a video when everything you want us to see is out of the camera frame? How do some people manage to survive in this world.
If you think it's that easy to do by yourself why haven't you tried it? You have no videos so shut your mouth.
not only did you take the time to watch the video, but you also took the time to write a whiney comment. I bet you're just a blast to be around and can do everything at a professional level huh sport?
What you are doing is VERY unsafe / dangerous in an tutorial video for beginners.
Every powdercharge should be over 50% of the shellvolume to avoid overpressure and doublefilling. You should use an other powder.
You are an idiot