10 yrs ago, i couldn't get a focus bolt out, snapped 2 sockets + my extension bar, phoned the lads at ford workshop, "just smash all the bottom plastic cover off, + slip the belt over the pulley", "once the top cover is back on, the customer will never know" "never had one back yet to complain" main dealers, gotta luv 'em....
Was completely stuck as the bolt wouldn’t move, so watched your video, tried it with a Mapp blow lamp and worked an absolute treat!! Thanks very much! You’ve saved my sanity!! 😂😂
Just finished doing a cam belt on my Ford Fiesta Zetec S mk5 (2002), struggled yesterday with the crank bolt, nothing would touch it, had the air compressor out set to max, nothing. Almost at the point of giving up, but found your video last night. 8am this morning dragged the comp back out and dad's 1993 black and decker heat gun, few mins of heat and the bolt came straight out with the airgun. Thank you so much for the video, this really helped me out. Also did the trick holding the coolant tank in the air, worked brilliantly. Have subbed :) My timing kit has a locking pin, you replace the timing pin and use it when tightening the new crank bolt so no need for the flywheel locking tool.
Many thanks. And as far as i have seen the majority videos of changing belts on these 1.6 zetec engines. you are the only one who releases the camshaft sprockets. hats off to you sir!
Great Video on doing this Alan and the pitfalls that come with it. I've carried out this procedure on my MK1 1.6 and getting the crankshaft bolt out is the "squeaky-bum-time" moment - fortunately I have a Milwaukee M18 cheat gun! This takes the bolt out without heat at all. Your method works well with lowered powered guns, that US Pro Gun has half the torque that a Snap-on/Milwaukee will produce. Changing the Cambelt on these Sigma & Zetec lumps is otherwise fairly straight forward, people complain about the lack of a key-way in the crank but the timing tools make the job just as easy! P.S. I've re-used the camshaft sprocket bolts with no issues, as long as they yield when torquing to 60NM it's all good :)
Another good solid job. The hot air gun usage probably expands the stretch pin. I will remember this idea. Your timing and rechecking, points to a experienced mechanic.
I was struggling to undo that crankshaft bolt with a 3/4 drive breaker bar. I tired your heat gun trick and it worked a treat. I don’t have an impact gun, so put car in 5th gear, and used some box section bar across the both front wheel studs to prevent them turning.
Perfection,only thing you forgot to mention is the bottom cover gets slightly warped from the heat gun but doesn’t damage it,I’ve done hundreds over the years I can do them in my sleep lol ,nice one Fella,good to see you back home 👍😉💪
@@gtidan8467my mistake i was thinking of a completely different car referring to the lower cover. But heat should not cause damage to the plastic unless you go ape with a heat gun.
Back to business mr Allan . I’m learning another 1 each time you post this informative mechanical video of yours because I’m trying to do my personal maintenance on my ford s max 2007 taci .. great video thanks a lot
to lock the crankshaft pulley bolt I use a set of stillsons through the pulley to hold it and a small piece of wood on the jaws so it doesn't damage the pulley saves loads of time an you can hold the flywheel pulley great vid
Top Tip Alan ,,, do not put the cam lock tool in place before you have cracked the crank bolt loose ,,, there is a chance of snapping the cam lobes with the tool as you yeet on the crank bolt. hope u had a good holiday bud
Alan I have been watching your channel for years now, I cannot count how many times your videos have saved me.. This time the bolt was tight.. there was no other way than 4 minutes of heat. One thing I have to say, the plastic bottom cover behind the pulley/damper got damaged by the heat,(like in your video) but can be reused. The question is, will the heat damage the main seal? Thank you Alan!!
Great video. What is so difficult about removing the starter and putting a proper crankshaft locking tool in place? That's what I did, adds about an extra 30 mins. Then you know you can properly angle tighten the crank bolt and if it is difficult to remove, just use a long breaker bar with 3/4" drive socket and extension. Now my concerns would be that the heat would degrade the rubber in the harmonic balancer and damage the crank oil seal (not a problem if you are replacing these). Also how do you know what torque you have done the bolt up to with just a blip of the impact gun? You could of at least done the initial torque, marked the bolt head and then blipped it round the 90 degrees using the gun otherwise you are just guessing. Leaving the cam locking plate in while doing up the crank bolt is risky as the timing belt spocket gets dragged round as you tighten the crank bolt and puts stress on the belt and cam tool the way you done it. You should have left the cam pulleys freewheeling while doing up the crank bolt, then set timing again, then finally tighten the cam bolts. That way you don't put stress on anything. But yeah I'm sure you've done plenty your way and it works for you. Thanks for the video.
Ano, tak jak jste to napsal, to je správný postup!!👍 Ještě jsem viděl video jednoho italského mechanika, který odstranil čidlo polohy setrvačníku a vložil místo něj do otvoru kulatinu myslím průměru 14 mm a setrvačník tím zajistil a poté správně dotáhl šroub kliky na předepsaný moment. Já to tak udělal u Ford Fiesta a funguje to!😊 Takže startér pryč nemusí.😊
Nice having you back Alan although it must have been hard going back to work 😭 I tried my Dewalt impact gun on this bolt and it wouldn't twitch. Nice Pro Tip with a heat gun 👍 USPro tools are good but I think we need more powerful guns.. $$ Auch I figured out that tip with a bottle too 😁 does the trick with bleeding the air out the system 👍
thanks for the video I am doing the timing belt on the 2013 ford fiesta timing belt, people talk about using the torque wrench for the crank bolt, I am just using the impact gun by full power, that mostly I do when I working on the timing belt.
I can't believe it worked 😂 thank you so much. The last time I did one of these I made a tool to hold the pulley, although the bolt came undone the pulley shattered as well. Thanks again.
Get a lisele weighted socket, works wonders on pain in the butt bolts. Honda had this issue in the late 90's and the lisele socket fixed that issue mechanics had with them and not destroy the crank seal with heat.
I've never used one but I have seen those big sockets with the big weight. Are they any good? Or you could weld a big round piece of metal with a hole in on a impact socket
Top video Alan! Better than Haynes Manual! I've done a 2010 Fiesta Mk7 by locking flywheel, then socket on breaker bar! However, my son took 2013 Fiesta to local garage for same job and they used the Snowpake "short cut" method - worked fine and must have been much quicker to do!
Hi just wondering what would be the best way to remove crank pulley bolt without any power tools, just a breaker. I have a manual so my thoughts were to put it in high gear and press the breaks down.
Will the air-gun will probably torq it😮 back up I went to Haynes manual it talks about talking at then angle tightening flywheel boots to stretch them but I don't think anyone does?
Hi Alan ,I really enjoyed our chat last week ,well that was a great video as usual,don't forget to txt me about that show if that's OK with you and Kevin hope to here from you ,keep the video's coming they are great
Been watching a lot of your videos I like your no nonsense approach and straightforward information. I have a mk5 mondeo and the rear passenger side caliper has failed (rear discs and pads were done 2 months ago) is it possible to just change the disc and pad on the passenger side? As the driver side is only 2 months old, I hear about brake balancing ect, but SURELY there would not be any difference if it was left on and only changed passenger with new caliper?
Great to see you back in your natural habitat even if you don’t agree at least no flies! I use gas torch to heat simple plumbers heat gun better I think? Renting an o7 car too old?
Great to see you're back Alan. 👍👌👏👏😉😉 I'd hate to strip the thread with the windy gun wouldn't you? Those 3 cyl Fiesta engines require a torque multiplyer don't they? What a daft idea. 😂😅🤣
i thought crankshaft bolt is that 4 nm and 90 degrees, -or was it so -is it ok then just run it with impact gun so how can b shure it went ok anddd that stretch like should
Hi Alan, I am about to buy a 4 post lift because I open a garage and this will be the only lift. I do not like the 2 posts because I heard some horror stories about vehicle coming off from it accidently. Is there any job I would be struggling to get done compared to 2 post lifts you can think of?
2 post are much better as there is more room to work around the car. Buy a decent quality 2 post but main thing is the concrete you are bolting it down to is thick and enough.
Alan, those two smaller tubes that go into the coolant bottle are the bleeder lines, one comes from the top of the thermostat, the other comes from the top of the radiator, the idea is that these lines will let any pocket of air to escape (automatic-ally) into the bottle. There should always be a tiny little bit of water flowing through those tubes (on the one coming from the radiator, only when the thermostat is open). There's inside each a small plastic piece to reduce their inside diameter even further to limit the flow to a minimum. One common issue (I've seen often here is Spain) is the the reducer gets clogged because people have added water instead of coolant and things start to corrode and the coolant turns brown (with rust) and ends up clogging the orifice and then auto-bleeding won't/can't happen any more.
Thanks for the tips. I think we can all agree that Ford has again failed with the design, there are way too many difficult solutions where other brands have been smarter. Always when a Ford comes in, we have to reserve much more time for the work compared to many other.
Pumps are common to blow and they take timing belt with them. Should do a video of how you time it back up with new built. They are non.interference engines
Hi from Italy, i'm stuck on the Bolt of the 1.4 16v (Fiesta mk5). I don't have the heat gun but Just a torch gas. Can i use it pointing directly to the bolt?
Wish I had watched this video earlier. On my 2013 I could not get the bolt out, rented a 200 ftlb impact and still no. I then drilled it out to 1/2 inch about a 1/2 inch deep and was able to remove the bolt. The heat gun would have been faster and easier
buy a decent gun (milwaukee M18) for 2 reasons 1 to save time and 2 to prevent the risk of damaging the seal or plastics also you should never use the gun to tighten anything while any of the timing tools are in place
Love this guys honesty when doing videos. No pissing about. Straight to the point.
10 yrs ago, i couldn't get a focus bolt out, snapped 2 sockets + my extension bar, phoned the lads at ford workshop, "just smash all the bottom plastic cover off, + slip the belt over the pulley", "once the top cover is back on, the customer will never know" "never had one back yet to complain" main dealers, gotta luv 'em....
Bet wthat will get contaminated real wuick with oil and debris your smart proper bodge job
Was completely stuck as the bolt wouldn’t move, so watched your video, tried it with a Mapp blow lamp and worked an absolute treat!!
Thanks very much!
You’ve saved my sanity!! 😂😂
excellant 😁
Going to miss all this good stuff if and when you go 😢
Where's he going
Just finished doing a cam belt on my Ford Fiesta Zetec S mk5 (2002), struggled yesterday with the crank bolt, nothing would touch it, had the air compressor out set to max, nothing. Almost at the point of giving up, but found your video last night.
8am this morning dragged the comp back out and dad's 1993 black and decker heat gun, few mins of heat and the bolt came straight out with the airgun.
Thank you so much for the video, this really helped me out.
Also did the trick holding the coolant tank in the air, worked brilliantly.
Have subbed :)
My timing kit has a locking pin, you replace the timing pin and use it when tightening the new crank bolt so no need for the flywheel locking tool.
lmao🤣its easy when you know how, thanks for the comment, made me laugh, have a good one
Hi, i have a question. I have the locking pin too. It is a Little bit ticker than the timing pin. It is strong enough to resist the tightening torque?
@@cristianb.4135 Yes as long as you follow the correct tightening torque/ sequence for the crank bolt
@@mrxr2 perfect, mine is 40Nm + 90 degrees.
@@cristianb.4135 I seem to remember mine were the same so you shouldn't have any issues with the thicker tightening pin, just take care
Many thanks. And as far as i have seen the majority videos of changing belts on these 1.6 zetec engines. you are the only one who releases the camshaft sprockets. hats off to you sir!
The cooling bottle is a clever trick. I'll remember it next time I do one of these... Thanks!
I was worried delayed Balut poisoning had taken you. Glad to see you're still alive 🙂👍
😂😂😂😂
Great Video on doing this Alan and the pitfalls that come with it. I've carried out this procedure on my MK1 1.6 and getting the crankshaft bolt out is the "squeaky-bum-time" moment - fortunately I have a Milwaukee M18 cheat gun! This takes the bolt out without heat at all. Your method works well with lowered powered guns, that US Pro Gun has half the torque that a Snap-on/Milwaukee will produce. Changing the Cambelt on these Sigma & Zetec lumps is otherwise fairly straight forward, people complain about the lack of a key-way in the crank but the timing tools make the job just as easy! P.S. I've re-used the camshaft sprocket bolts with no issues, as long as they yield when torquing to 60NM it's all good :)
If there’s no woodruff key isn’t the sprocket likely to slip? 😱
@@twig3288 not with a powerful gun no
Another good solid job. The hot air gun usage probably expands the stretch pin. I will remember this idea. Your timing and rechecking, points to a experienced mechanic.
Thanks so much for this video, I was ready to pay a garage until I found this great video, it worked a treat.👍
I was struggling to undo that crankshaft bolt with a 3/4 drive breaker bar. I tired your heat gun trick and it worked a treat. I don’t have an impact gun, so put car in 5th gear, and used some box section bar across the both front wheel studs to prevent them turning.
excellant😁
Perfection,only thing you forgot to mention is the bottom cover gets slightly warped from the heat gun but doesn’t damage it,I’ve done hundreds over the years I can do them in my sleep lol ,nice one Fella,good to see you back home 👍😉💪
you always remove the bottom cover to stop this happening :)
You haven't done one of these then. You can't remove bottom cover with pulley on!
@@gtidan8467my mistake i was thinking of a completely different car referring to the lower cover. But heat should not cause damage to the plastic unless you go ape with a heat gun.
@@gtidan8467 exactly 👍
Great hack Alan raising the reservoir bottle up.
Good to have you back on car videos Alan
Back to business mr Allan . I’m learning another 1 each time you post this informative mechanical video of yours because I’m trying to do my personal maintenance on my ford s max 2007 taci .. great video thanks a lot
to lock the crankshaft pulley bolt I use a set of stillsons through the pulley to hold it and a small piece of wood on the jaws so it doesn't damage the pulley saves loads of time an you can hold the flywheel pulley great vid
Top Tip Alan ,,, do not put the cam lock tool in place before you have cracked the crank bolt loose ,,, there is a chance of snapping the cam lobes with the tool as you yeet on the crank bolt. hope u had a good holiday bud
I wish i would have seen this comment an hour ago...... I now have to replace the intake cam... FML
Alan I have been watching your channel for years now, I cannot count how many times your videos have saved me.. This time the bolt was tight.. there was no other way than 4 minutes of heat. One thing I have to say, the plastic bottom cover behind the pulley/damper got damaged by the heat,(like in your video) but can be reused. The question is, will the heat damage the main seal? Thank you Alan!!
An incredibly useful video Alan!! welcome home from your Holiday, you left us with a bit of a void. "Fantastic"
Great video as usual just a question, don't you risk damaging the lip seal ?
Great video. What is so difficult about removing the starter and putting a proper crankshaft locking tool in place? That's what I did, adds about an extra 30 mins. Then you know you can properly angle tighten the crank bolt and if it is difficult to remove, just use a long breaker bar with 3/4" drive socket and extension.
Now my concerns would be that the heat would degrade the rubber in the harmonic balancer and damage the crank oil seal (not a problem if you are replacing these).
Also how do you know what torque you have done the bolt up to with just a blip of the impact gun? You could of at least done the initial torque, marked the bolt head and then blipped it round the 90 degrees using the gun otherwise you are just guessing.
Leaving the cam locking plate in while doing up the crank bolt is risky as the timing belt spocket gets dragged round as you tighten the crank bolt and puts stress on the belt and cam tool the way you done it.
You should have left the cam pulleys freewheeling while doing up the crank bolt, then set timing again, then finally tighten the cam bolts. That way you don't put stress on anything.
But yeah I'm sure you've done plenty your way and it works for you. Thanks for the video.
Ano, tak jak jste to napsal, to je správný postup!!👍 Ještě jsem viděl video jednoho italského mechanika, který odstranil čidlo polohy setrvačníku a vložil místo něj do otvoru kulatinu myslím průměru 14 mm a setrvačník tím zajistil a poté správně dotáhl šroub kliky na předepsaný moment. Já to tak udělal u Ford Fiesta a funguje to!😊 Takže startér pryč nemusí.😊
Welcome back to Blighty Alan!
Another brilliant video Allen well done. You and Rain Man repairs are my favourite well done. Keep up the good work. Absolutely love it❤
Nice having you back Alan although it must have been hard going back to work 😭
I tried my Dewalt impact gun on this bolt and it wouldn't twitch. Nice Pro Tip with a heat gun 👍
USPro tools are good but I think we need more powerful guns.. $$ Auch
I figured out that tip with a bottle too 😁 does the trick with bleeding the air out the system 👍
Proper quality air gun with high flow connections and adequate air pressure will always do the job without the need of any heat etc
thanks for the video I am doing the timing belt on the 2013 ford fiesta timing belt, people talk about using the torque wrench for the crank bolt, I am just using the impact gun by full power, that mostly I do when I working on the timing belt.
You opened the expansion bottle cap to let the graverty in?? Thought it was there already and needed air to be let in 😆 😂 😆 😂
I can't believe it worked 😂 thank you so much. The last time I did one of these I made a tool to hold the pulley, although the bolt came undone the pulley shattered as well. Thanks again.
Fantastic, glad it worked😊
Good tip but you can hear the gun is starved of air, use high flow fittings and 1/2 hose and you will get a big power boost
Just watched EuroV. This was a nice tonic Alan. Thanks.
Can the heat toast the pulley seal?
Top tip that with the coolant bottle. I like it a lot.
Hello Alan 😊
Nothing personal,but..
Its good practic to replace cams seals and crank seal on same time🥳
I like your all the videos 🤙👊🏼
On the other hand if they're not leaking do you really want to disturb them?
@@zoidberg444
Yes I do
Thanks my teacher😊 i will do the timming soon to my car and ive already learned a lot from u i really apreciate that
Great vid Alan that timing belt replacement is very similar to the 1.6 Renault magane which I’ve done a few of 👍👊
Get a lisele weighted socket, works wonders on pain in the butt bolts. Honda had this issue in the late 90's and the lisele socket fixed that issue mechanics had with them and not destroy the crank seal with heat.
Quite a few "top tips" there Alan. Awesome informative vid as always. Cheers Alan.
Alan nice one,,))) you smashed it again 😊🇬🇧👊
When would you recommend changing the timing belt on a 1.5 Tdci al ?
I've never used one but I have seen those big sockets with the big weight.
Are they any good?
Or you could weld a big round piece of metal with a hole in on a impact socket
Hi Alan,a very nice and informative video. Back to the spanners once againg.
Thank you for your video on changing the timing belt and water pump. Does the same apply for a ford fiesta zetec mk5 05 plate please ?
Top video Alan! Better than Haynes Manual! I've done a 2010 Fiesta Mk7 by locking flywheel, then socket on breaker bar! However, my son took 2013 Fiesta to local garage for same job and they used the Snowpake "short cut" method - worked fine and must have been much quicker to do!
whst is snowpake
@@thehutx Snowpake is a small bottle of white quick dry paint (including mini brush) that office typists used to “paint over” typing errors on paper.
Hi just wondering what would be the best way to remove crank pulley bolt without any power tools, just a breaker. I have a manual so my thoughts were to put it in high gear and press the breaks down.
A Torque Multiplier has always worked for me
Will the air-gun will probably torq it😮 back up I went to Haynes manual it talks about talking at then angle tightening flywheel boots to stretch them but I don't think anyone does?
unless you want to lock the flywheel, there's no choice really
Mighty job Alan, very well explained, Thank You💯👌👍🙏😎
Perfect timing, job I’ve got to do on son car this week
Hi Alan ,I really enjoyed our chat last week ,well that was a great video as usual,don't forget to txt me about that show if that's OK with you and Kevin hope to here from you ,keep the video's coming they are great
Been watching a lot of your videos I like your no nonsense approach and straightforward information. I have a mk5 mondeo and the rear passenger side caliper has failed (rear discs and pads were done 2 months ago) is it possible to just change the disc and pad on the passenger side? As the driver side is only 2 months old, I hear about brake balancing ect, but SURELY there would not be any difference if it was left on and only changed passenger with new caliper?
Take the crankshaft sensor out and then give it some with a bolt in the sensor hole with a 3 quarter bar to do crankshaft pulley up
Where is your garage. I need the wet belt doing on my van if you are interested. Its a 2012 limited connect. Thank you
Great to see you back in your natural habitat even if you don’t agree at least no flies! I use gas torch to heat simple plumbers heat gun better I think? Renting an o7 car too old?
Is there not a proper tool you can use that fits inside the slots on the crankshaft pulley when you are tightening it?
You know there is a special tool you need to fix on the driveshaft bolts with build in torque converter especialy for the wetbelt driven ford engines?
Great video great tips cheers Alan, Sandy
ask snap on for weighted sockets i use them on hondas which are usually mega tight .... there's a couple of vids on here somewhere that show them
Great to see you're back Alan. 👍👌👏👏😉😉
I'd hate to strip the thread with the windy gun wouldn't you? Those 3 cyl Fiesta engines require a torque multiplyer don't they? What a daft idea. 😂😅🤣
Welcome home fela!!!!!
i thought crankshaft bolt is that 4 nm and 90 degrees, -or was it so -is it ok then just run it with impact gun so how can b shure it went ok anddd that stretch like should
Can you do a how to. On changing the stretch belts please
Have you ever tried one of them induction heaters on the crank bolt?
Excellent video, some really good points 👍
Alan, ever had a crank bolt break? Imagine that's a whole world of pain!
what model heat gun was that Alan mate top tips as always!
Sounds like you need a Milwaukee battery buzz gun mines 7 years old had no problems with it and not found a bolt it won’t undo.
Agreed. 😊
100% agree I have one and never had a problem with any crank bolts or hub nuts
Yep there's nothing like a milwaukee
Great tips Alan - many thanks!
I was shouting 'heat' from the start of the video Alan, but I used a yellow can Mapp gas torch on mine hahahah
Would that coolant refilling trick work with a Mondeo 2L Duratec?
Get the milwaukee m18 high torque, it eats these bolts no problem.
I agree, my milwaukee eats most air guns for breakfast
Totally agree… had mine for 8/9 years - it’s the car mechanics’ equivalent of fishing with dynamite - too easy!
Hi Alan, I am about to buy a 4 post lift because I open a garage and this will be the only lift. I do not like the 2 posts because I heard some horror stories about vehicle coming off from it accidently. Is there any job I would be struggling to get done compared to 2 post lifts you can think of?
2 post are much better as there is more room to work around the car.
Buy a decent quality 2 post but main thing is the concrete you are bolting it down to is thick and enough.
Alan, those two smaller tubes that go into the coolant bottle are the bleeder lines, one comes from the top of the thermostat, the other comes from the top of the radiator, the idea is that these lines will let any pocket of air to escape (automatic-ally) into the bottle. There should always be a tiny little bit of water flowing through those tubes (on the one coming from the radiator, only when the thermostat is open). There's inside each a small plastic piece to reduce their inside diameter even further to limit the flow to a minimum. One common issue (I've seen often here is Spain) is the the reducer gets clogged because people have added water instead of coolant and things start to corrode and the coolant turns brown (with rust) and ends up clogging the orifice and then auto-bleeding won't/can't happen any more.
Thanks for the tips. I think we can all agree that Ford has again failed with the design, there are way too many difficult solutions where other brands have been smarter. Always when a Ford comes in, we have to reserve much more time for the work compared to many other.
Those belts won't see 125k. Water pump will go by then and snap it
Pumps are common to blow and they take timing belt with them. Should do a video of how you time it back up with new built. They are non.interference engines
Oh good, your back!
Hi from Italy, i'm stuck on the Bolt of the 1.4 16v (Fiesta mk5). I don't have the heat gun but Just a torch gas. Can i use it pointing directly to the bolt?
I don't see why not, give it a go
@@alan4xI managed to remove the bolt. It took 6 minutes of flames and the impact gun set to 8 bar... Thanks for the help!
hello mate, where are your garage based?
I have a 2015 Ford Fiesta with over 250,000 miles on it. It still has the original timing belt on it😮
Isn t there no Fixpoint on the Pully or Crankshaft ?
no, the crank pulley is free spinning on the crankshaft until the crank bolt holds it tight in place
Use a shallow impact socket and put some oil through your air gun 👍
Good vidoe as always . How is work know you are home.
great video as usual alan!
Just buy a weighted socket, lifesaver!
Wish I had watched this video earlier. On my 2013 I could not get the bolt out, rented a 200 ftlb impact and still no. I then drilled it out to 1/2 inch about a 1/2 inch deep and was able to remove the bolt. The heat gun would have been faster and easier
Did a mk1 1.6 recently and it was the same crap, tight AF.
Top info as always
It works, thanks 👍
Great video mate
.
Good video thanks 😊
You’re welcome 😊
Very good job
buy a decent gun (milwaukee M18) for 2 reasons 1 to save time and 2 to prevent the risk of damaging the seal or plastics also you should never use the gun to tighten anything while any of the timing tools are in place
Original cambelt? Wow, surprised it hasn’t snapped by now
Known a few go ‘almost’ to second time around. I say almost, because they didn’t quite make it 😂. People are stupid sometimes
Great video!👍
Büyüksün ustam ❤
The ones on the citroen xsara picasso 2.0 petrol are a pig too.
Use a power bar crankshaft bolt tool made for the job, quicker and easier. Google it or do a TH-cam search.
They're handy for inaccessible bolts where you can't get a gun on, but a decent impact gun would of took that bolt out.
Alan I bet your sad to be back ?
He cried ! 😅😅😅
Torque multiplier ..