Thank you for the question. I have tried taking a shot at night and combining them, however when you shoot at night you are very limited on the amount of data available and the contrast can often be very high, therefore if you shoot on a low contrast daytime, you can use the additional data to control the image better. I hope this helps :-)
My problem is that whenever I make my photos - color or B&W - darker to where I like it. It shows the dramatic effect the way I like it, then it is way too dark to print the photo on my printer. I have to lighten it up - losing that effect - just so I can print it out. So, I doubt I'd ever be able to send them off to have a photo-book made until I resolve this issue. I need someone else's advice on this, I guess.
I have the same problem, so what I do is raise the exposure by 0.5 to 0.75 stops prior to printing but also add 15 points of clarity and 5-10 points of contrast, this gets it back to the right place ready for printing 😀. I hope this helps...
the two main sets I use are from Serge Ramelli :- www.photoserge.com/offers/euxeqjzR/checkout and Clever Photographer:- www.cleverphotographer.com/skies. I have them both, but I also take my own when I see the perfect sky :-)
Another wonderful video. Quick question: When you opened this photo in Lightroom it was a RAW file. When you edit in Photoshop then move the image back to Lightroom the photo is now a TIF file. Does that affect in any way Lightroom's functionality and/or the final resolution of the photo? Any other issues caused by Photoshop converting the RAW file to a TIF? Thanks!
Photoshop does not have a RAW export option back to Lightroom, so you can pick from a number of formats, the default is .TIF, which is one of the better options, as it remains a 16bit image (the same as most RAW and DNG files), so there is no loss in resolution or colour depth ...
Brilliant! Subtracting the light from the tree without Subtracting from the tower was cool!
Great post.
cool right 😀
Absolutely enjoyed watching you go through the entire editing process. Subscribed!!!!!!
many thanks Steven, I have many videos in my collection, I always welcome feed back, so let me know how it goes 😀
Quite similar to 3D computer generated illustration. i spend the same amount of time and love refining my architectural renderings. good work!.
You’re really good with your computer.
Superb video and looks amazing
many thanks 😀
Thanks for sharing!
you are very welcome 😀
great work
thank you 😀
Just brilliant, Jamie. So meticulous. And, I love the use of the radial filters ... I never thought they could be so versatile.
my favorite tool 🙂
From camera to paper, coz of the beautiful new grainy thing I bought a Ricoh cx3
Very informative and a pleasing final image although I found the sky a bit heavy handed for my taste.Thank you 😁
thank you for your comment and feedback, it is very much appreciated 😀
I have found no other channel that demonstrates the artistry of photo editing nearly as well as yours. Well done for all your videos
many thanks Stephen 😀
same!
Your tutorials are just outstanding Jamie.
thank you for your kind words 😀
Amazing work, can’t wait to be you
Excellent, thanks so much! I worked along with one of my own ... very therapeutic! 😊
Thank you Robin, have a look at the rest of my videos, many now include the original RAW imaged linked, so you can follow along exactly, if you wish 😀
Well done, I love your work and thank you for sharing
Thank you Gino 😀
You must be alien. For sure 😂.
Very good lesion.ty
😅
Great...love your edit... creating beautiful black & white drama images !!
thank you :-)
Wow that's amazing! Thank you for sharing your technique.
Thanks for sharing.
you are very welcome 😀
Thank you so much for your excellent and useful videos.
you are very welcome 😀
Cracking edit.
😀
very interessting,thankyou!
Thank you!
Very nice work painting light. I must ask why not take a night photo as a start or to combine them?
Thank you for the question. I have tried taking a shot at night and combining them, however when you shoot at night you are very limited on the amount of data available and the contrast can often be very high, therefore if you shoot on a low contrast daytime, you can use the additional data to control the image better. I hope this helps :-)
OK !
Love!
😀
Es genial.
My problem is that whenever I make my photos - color or B&W - darker to where I like it.
It shows the dramatic effect the way I like it, then it is way too dark to print the photo on my printer.
I have to lighten it up - losing that effect - just so I can print it out.
So, I doubt I'd ever be able to send them off to have a photo-book made until I resolve this issue.
I need someone else's advice on this, I guess.
I have the same problem, so what I do is raise the exposure by 0.5 to 0.75 stops prior to printing but also add 15 points of clarity and 5-10 points of contrast, this gets it back to the right place ready for printing 😀. I hope this helps...
Jamie.. do you have a favorite set of sky replacements that you can recommend for purchase? Thank you.
the two main sets I use are from Serge Ramelli :- www.photoserge.com/offers/euxeqjzR/checkout and Clever Photographer:- www.cleverphotographer.com/skies. I have them both, but I also take my own when I see the perfect sky :-)
Thank you Jamie.
Jamie, what camera body are you using?
I have a Sony A7Riv 🙂
@@jamiermathlin Ah, the holy grail.
Make every day look like doomsday.
I think black and white can have this effect, more colour perhaps 😀
Jamie, given that you took the image into Photoshop then why wouldn't you just do the entire edit in camera raw? Thanks
Hi Stephen, great question with a simple answer 😀 I really do not like camera raw, I much prefer using lightroom.
Another wonderful video. Quick question: When you opened this photo in Lightroom it was a RAW file. When you edit in Photoshop then move the image back to Lightroom the photo is now a TIF file. Does that affect in any way Lightroom's functionality and/or the final resolution of the photo? Any other issues caused by Photoshop converting the RAW file to a TIF? Thanks!
Photoshop does not have a RAW export option back to Lightroom, so you can pick from a number of formats, the default is .TIF, which is one of the better options, as it remains a 16bit image (the same as most RAW and DNG files), so there is no loss in resolution or colour depth ...
Excellent video. Really useful.
😀😀
this is an absoulute beauty, thanks for sharing the editing procces ! there's much to learn from you
thank you 😀