Great video. The fact that you were critical of specific design features shows that you were not beholden to the manufacture. You clearly paid the full price for the lift. This is gold for the prospecting lift buyer. Thanks
Nice tutorial. You didn't leave out anything. I have a #10,000 Rotary, and I found the same issue with the low working height. I cut two 4 x 4's to act as locks (around 8" each) for the ground level height. The blocks support the weldment that holds the arms. Totally safe and convenient. Be sure your BendPak will work this way first. I love your new shop. Thanks for all the great videos!
I have two older Bend Pacs. They look more heavy duty. U don’t need the safety’s close to the ground, so u can put the car at whatever level is good for your back. Once the safety clicks, even if u had a rupture of hydraulic pressure, it would only drop a few inches before the safety would would halt downward motion. I have been using them about 12 years. I have had to reseal two of the rams. Very happy with them. I often back lighters cars on the asymmetric lifts. No problems.
You were not alone with the bottom plate not being level. I saw another youtube video where the user had the same problem. When I was looking for a lift I spent the after noon visting the local shops in my area just to see what lift they were using. Rotary was by far the most used followed by forward,then challenger. I ened up getting a sweet deal on a mowhawk 9k lift that was like brand new for 3K. I intend to install it next week. Thanks for taking the time to make yours!
That was great. I have friends who had a repair shop and bought those lifts. I'm around your height, and hated them. Had to duck constantly due to the lack of lift height. And you're right about the low lift height with the locks - it would be so nice if they locked a foot off the ground.
I have the exact same one at home. I set it up by myself as well. Stood the posts up with my A-frame gantry - easy once I figured out the center of gravity on them, and moved about 6" "up" to put the sling. Moving them around was also pretty easy if you've ever moved a barrel. I've had mine up and running about 4 years now. Gotta be one of THE best purchases I've ever made.
If anyone else is thinking of getting one - of course you don't have this issue!! - Check the height of your ceiling. A normal 12ft one will not work! For some insane reason, they made it so you NEED (!!!!!) 12ft 1.5" of height. I virtually built my shop around this hoist (I bought the hoist about 6 months in advance as I heard a price increase was coming soon), so made damn sure that they put one extra 2*4 all the way around the top plate to get me the extra clearance needed. And boy - they're not kidding! Look at the top, you'll see a notch cut out. As you stand up the posts (they of course go up in an arc), that notch lets you do it. There is then about 3/8" clearance to your ceiling. If you had an unfinished ceiling, and the rafters went the right way I guess you'd be OK. But still... whoa tight!
You win the Man of the Day award for raising those two posts all by yourself, lol! Was thinking about the situation with the lock cable and the electrical cable...maybe a couple of nylon rollers could be used to hold the lock cable back a bit without causing wear or drag on the cable? As for the first stop being too high to work in the engine compartment, you could always just use a low step stool to get yourself an extra foot off the ground.
For the anchors you should vacuum out or blow air into the hole and get all the dust out. That way the bolts will hold the load that they are rated for. On jobs doing structural steel we could fail inspection if the holes weren't clean before the anchor is installed. Another tip, mark your drill bit with tape so you know how deep to go.
Also brush out the holes with an appropriate size bottle brush to mechanically clean the bore of loose material. The epoxy needs solid concrete, not dust to adhere properly.
Certified structual welder here. The distortion on the bottom plate is normal. When you weld a plate to a beam the weld cools and pulls the edges up because the weld shrinks the material on top around the heated area. The hotter the weld the more distortion. You can try to control how much is moves around with preheat and pre bending the plate in the opposite direction but all steel will move enough that we had to shim nearly every beam we installed. One way to fix this is to machine the plate after its welded but that costs too much.
Thanks! Another milestone in you're endeavors forward sir; I appreciate all the info on this lift, I'll be waiting to view the new parts washer, and further work on the prelude. 👍🏻 ( Shop is looking excellent 👍🏻)
Your shop looks great! So glad that you have a car lift now. I'm wanting to achieve the same for a personal shop in the future. Thank you for the informative video and keep up the great work.
A design flaw yes but I'd fasten a piece of Delrin in 2 or 3 places which would self lubricate and never cause an issue for locking cable. Thank you for pointing it out though. I'm in the midst of trying to choose a good 2 post symmetrical lift and want safe reliable operation
A lot more complicated than I would have imagined. Great advice (and warnings) about lifts. Too bad you could not wait for the other lift brands. I would put jackstands under the vehicle at 12 inches high or just stay out from below everything when working at that height. Thank you for a great video.
I would look for the ALI sticker on any lift I would consider . They torcher test every model that has the sticker and if they don’t pass that model doesn’t get the sticker. Anchors are torqued to 150 foot pounds and should be retorqued annually to 85-90 pounds . Always work with load resting on locks and don’t walk away with out lowering to locks.
Man you made an excellent tutorial here! I'm a millwright and could easily install my new lift following your directions. I too am in the process of researching different lifts for my new home garage. I'm in Canada so the prices are a little higher due to the exchange rate.
Finally! No more laying on your back for money! 😉🤣 You're a beast for lifting those by yourself 💪💪, wish I lived lil closer would have helped you. Not too far, I'm up on the Central Coast. Can always build some cribbing blocks to slide under the car or wheels on low heights 🤙
I recently purchased a 10,000 pound “A plus lift” pick mine up with my two wheel 12 foot trailer Unloaded it off the trailer by myself using come along to snub it and rolled it off on a 8” round fence post cut in 4 (2 ft each ) rolls around nice in one peace.
Good presentation. Regarding the first stop on the lift being to high in order to get the vehicle up to a working height I would have no problem working on the car with it resting on the hydralics, or for some additional safety, putting a jack stand or two under the lift arm supports for safety and or to take the load off the hydraulics. My thinking that even having a lower click stop support on the lift would not be the perfect height for your size and the variations in cars anyway, so it's something you would probably need to fine tune. Jack stand or two, or cut some thick timbers the correct dimension to suit your comfort.
@@myRatchets Sure, but since the distance between the frame / rocker boxes and the level of the where the engine actrually sits and fender height varies between cars so much, I would say there is no one ideal first top level. As such the jack stands or custom cut wood blocks might be the preferred choice anyway. In any case I think it's trivial and easy to work with. Of course if your moving the vehicle up and down from the floor a lot, it's more of a hassle. If you're moving between a high and low position a lot, then the blocks, or jackstands will be a potential trip hazard.
Nice video! I also have the BendPak asymmetrical lift and I back vehicles onto mine. I mostly work on BMWs which are around 50/50 weight distribution so I figure it doesn't matter. 6 years later and it's been fine.
Great video! However, one does not "Level the posts , both ways". It seems many have not been taught ""Level" and "Plumb". Horizontal (parallel to the plane of the horizon, at right angles to the vertical) is "Level" . Vertical (straight up and down, at right angle to the vertical) is called "Plumb".
That's what I do, I don't use any jack stands either never once had a problem, The only time I care about the locks is when under it of course also I'll use a tri post under the rear end sometimes if needed.
The pads at the bottom are not flat because of distortion caused when they and the gussets were welded to the post. This situation is unavoidable and has nothing to do with the strength of the steel. Use of shims is common practice in this situation. Great video by the way. Hope you get lots of use out of it.
ooo ooo RnW, i REALLY appreciated the explanation on why you got what you got - why not a 4-poster? I've been eyeing a Wildfire lift for all the fun stuff they throw on them. Same issue with delivery, etc?
I don't know if anyone else mentioned in the comments, but the reason why your bottom mounting plates need the shim's, is because guess what, when you weld steel it tends to curl / move / not stay flat, unless the factory uses what is called a "strong-Backs," to aid in keeping the steel / flat / straight. That cost the manufacturer time & money.
I understand safety is very important , however if you are only raising the car 12” off the ground to make it more comfortable to work on the engine I would view the safety lock issue as a very minor inconvenience . Thanks for sharing
I would just use jack stands for that low of a height. I would LOVE to have a lift like this or access to one. I only work on my family's vehicles so I can't justify the cost in my head for something like this.
Get one of those "upright crawlers" that look like a two step ladder made for working over the hood of the bigger pickups and one tons. This supports your upper body out over the engine and eliminates back strain. Spending all day bent over is a prescription for back problems if you don't already have them! Normally you would use the spacers to set the base but before ever using it that gap would be grouted in with a high strength grout.
A generally good video, but a few comments if I may: 1. Any video on the subject should always include a warning on making sure your concrete pad has the correct mix (strength rating) and thickness. Your anchors also have to have a minimum embedment. 2. I would not comment on materials unless I can back it up with evidence. Keep it down to facts. 3. The safety release cable does indeed run too close to the cable. Good catch.
Thanks for great detail info of the Benpak Lift installation. Quick question ? how much concrete area ( cubic inch , WxLxD ) do you need for anchoring the posts. any need of concert rebar?
you need rebar and the minimum concrete thickness should be 4.75" and 3500psi according to bendpak but I would go 6"-8" deep in the areas where you will be putting the lift if you are doing a pour. as far as WxLxD that will depend on whether you are just doing a pour for the two posts alone or its part of a larger pad, if its part of a larger pad I would say the areas around the posts 2' out should be good, but I don't know the answer if you are doing it just for the posts. I personally wouldn't pour concrete just for two posts. I would pour concrete for the entire garage/shed etc. GL
Wow amazing person My teacher KNOWLEDGEABLE Ratchets and Wrenches Well done 👏 ✔️ 👍 👌 Thank you for sharing it Take care and have a great Weekend with all your family around you KNOWLEDGEABLE Ratchets and Wrenches From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Another possible fix, simpler than the roller (which is the ultimate fix) would be to invert the romex clamp. A little more difficult to install but doable. The wiring could then be held to the side in the same manner as you are currently redirecting the cable.
I've had a BendPak 10k symmetrical lift for about 10 years. What a great investment, I paid $3300, installed, and it has paid for itself several times over on reduced maintenance costs. If you have a place to install one, get one.
Beautiful 👍👍👍👍 So very thorough, as usual. I know third best is disappointing, but you can make it work if anyone can, and something is better than nothing, eh?
The steel is not likely softer. When the steel is welded it warps as it cools. It will pull from different points as it cools depending on the edge distance from the welds. While is is possible to weld something slowly and allow for some movement it is very unlikely that it is perfectly square. The issue is that your floor while overall may be level it is not very likely to be really flat. I would not be at all surprised if you had undulations up to a 1/4" in your slab.
Another great video as always. I've owned my BendPak for about 5 years. They have performed well. Although I like the lift, I do agree with your "cons".
Great video! You covered a lot of great information! Especially appreciate that you discussed the advantages/disadvantages of symmetrical vs asymmetrical two post lifts. I would however suggest limiting your comments (speculation) regarding the strength of the steel without factually knowing the grade of steel for the products you are discussing. Since your steel strength comments are obviously based on speculation and not based actually specifications, you risk putting out bad information which your viewers may mistake as factual information.
Test the levels you buy in the store for trueness before you buy. I've found many levels aren't true, especially the plastic ones, but fancy aluminum levels can be out
@@myRatchets got tired of setting showers thinking the tools were fine. Couldn't figure out why I had such a hard time. The garbage tool manufacturers try to pass of as quality is getting bad. I always test them in the store. Like the drywall t squares that are3/8" out in 4 ft. F@*#^!ng crap
Having made my living under a lift for 30 years, my experience is there is no comparison between the quality of a Bend Pak and a Challenger. The Challenger is garbage. The bore in the arms where they pivot on the pins wear out and elongate after only a couple years of commercial use. Rotary lifts used to be the paragon of quality but they are now built to a price point so if you want that Rotary quality you have to buy their top tier (most expensive) to get it. My experience with Bend Pak is that they just keep working.
@@myRatchets nice job by the the way on the video. A bunch of us helped a friend unload his new 4-post lift out of a trailer. Unbelievably heavy long ramps.
good info, thanks. as far as the low height limitation, is there any way to add some additional safety lock stops, or are safety lock stops absolutely necessary when working only from over head in the case of wanting to lift a few inches for comfort?
You can't add additional safety lock stops but raising the car a few inches is not the most dangerous thing either as in the worst case it will fall a few inches to the ground and hopefully not on your foot or any other object that could damage it etc.
Good info, specially on that starting height and the top cable. Things others never cover. Just one question, why not go for a four post lift? I can't remember if you're also in California but with the earthquakes these type sure scare me.
yea there is always that risk, usually you feel it coming so you have enough time to get away. 4 post just takes up too much space and not as easy to work around imo
If the base plate is not flat It is highly unlikely that it was bent in the shipping brackets. The shipping brackets are much weaker than the bases. Any out of flatness is most likely warpage from the welding of the column to the base plate. Most concrete may appear level with a long level but can have small humps that can cause the base plates to appear to be not flat. A grinder can remove these high spots allowing the column to sit on the floor better. Of course your floor was probably ground prior to the installation of the epoxy finish. If two lifts weigh the same then their thickness will be the same. All common steel regardless of alloy (unless stainless) and hardness are virtually the same density. I am a bit concerned by the amount of the concrete anchor bolts threads that are protruding from the nuts in this installation. In a proper installation there should be about 3 threads protruding beyond the nut. When sinking the anchors, I always back the nut off a few threads to allow the anchor to be driven deeper because it will always withdraw some when tightened. I am impressed by your ability to raise the columns by yourself.
There has to be a balance, but harder steel would have to be supper overloaded by the weight (probably beyond the power of the pump) to simply break off. Most of the breakaway tension is in the arms and the heads anyway.
I'm very surprised you can't stand under it. How tall it the lift. I have a chinese 12k unit and the direct rams are a little over 6ft, so it can lift the car 6ft off the ground. I guess I'm only 5-10 so that must explain why I fit no problem when its up as high as it goes.
You may also want to consider a WORTH lift, completely made in the U.S.A. Texas to be exact. I have had my 12,000 lb Worth lift for 7 years & totally satisfied. You have a nice shop. How big is it? Rick
You can get screen door rollers (they have a U shape in the center of the wheel) in various configurations at the local box store. You could also put a micro switch on the lever handle that activates when you pull the lever, then wire a solenoid to activate on the opposite side to pull the lock when you pull the lever. A suggestion - mark on the floor with a magic marker where the front tire lines up to make the car centered side to side and also front to back. I use a "T" on the drivers front laid on it's side (-l) to mark where the front tire lines up. The "l" part I use to make the front tire line up right next to (parallel), and the "-" I use to tell where the center of the tire should stop (perpendicular). I do this for the vehicles I put up on the lift most often. Using a center line or a ball on a string can produce inconsistent results (like when the vehicle is skewed at an angle). This "-l" method works most consistently for me, I just poke my head out of the drivers side window and drive right in, all lined up. If you are worried about having a mark on the floor, use lacquer thinner to remove it (bare concrete) or just wipe it off on epoxy coated floors.
If your lift is properly grounded then if the cable comes in contact with an energized wire, your circuit breaker would open eliminating the possibility of electrocution.
I agree about the cable rubbing not cool!!! To lift the car and work on it just to save your back you don't need to go to the first click..... Just lift it as much as you need it should not drop
Great video. The fact that you were critical of specific design features shows that you were not beholden to the manufacture. You clearly paid the full price for the lift. This is gold for the prospecting lift buyer. Thanks
oh yes paid full price on this :)
Nice tutorial. You didn't leave out anything. I have a #10,000 Rotary, and I found the same issue with the low working height. I cut two 4 x 4's to act as locks (around 8" each) for the ground level height. The blocks support the weldment that holds the arms. Totally safe and convenient. Be sure your BendPak will work this way first. I love your new shop. Thanks for all the great videos!
Was going to suggest the same thing.
I have two older Bend Pacs. They look more heavy duty. U don’t need the safety’s close to the ground, so u can put the car at whatever level is good for your back. Once the safety clicks, even if u had a rupture of hydraulic pressure, it would only drop a few inches before the safety would would halt downward motion. I have been using them about 12 years. I have had to reseal two of the rams. Very happy with them. I often back lighters cars on the asymmetric lifts. No problems.
good info thanks
My bend pak is over 20 years old and still doing good, I’ve just set it up in another shop, just a diy mechanic now semi retired, it has done me well.
You were not alone with the bottom plate not being level. I saw another youtube video where the user had the same problem. When I was looking for a lift I spent the after noon visting the local shops in my area just to see what lift they were using. Rotary was by far the most used followed by forward,then challenger. I ened up getting a sweet deal on a mowhawk 9k lift that was like brand new for 3K. I intend to install it next week. Thanks for taking the time to make yours!
That was great. I have friends who had a repair shop and bought those lifts. I'm around your height, and hated them. Had to duck constantly due to the lack of lift height. And you're right about the low lift height with the locks - it would be so nice if they locked a foot off the ground.
I have the exact same one at home. I set it up by myself as well. Stood the posts up with my A-frame gantry - easy once I figured out the center of gravity on them, and moved about 6" "up" to put the sling. Moving them around was also pretty easy if you've ever moved a barrel.
I've had mine up and running about 4 years now. Gotta be one of THE best purchases I've ever made.
If anyone else is thinking of getting one - of course you don't have this issue!! - Check the height of your ceiling. A normal 12ft one will not work! For some insane reason, they made it so you NEED (!!!!!) 12ft 1.5" of height. I virtually built my shop around this hoist (I bought the hoist about 6 months in advance as I heard a price increase was coming soon), so made damn sure that they put one extra 2*4 all the way around the top plate to get me the extra clearance needed.
And boy - they're not kidding! Look at the top, you'll see a notch cut out. As you stand up the posts (they of course go up in an arc), that notch lets you do it. There is then about 3/8" clearance to your ceiling. If you had an unfinished ceiling, and the rafters went the right way I guess you'd be OK. But still... whoa tight!
thanks for sharing.
Nice
You win the Man of the Day award for raising those two posts all by yourself, lol!
Was thinking about the situation with the lock cable and the electrical cable...maybe a couple of nylon rollers could be used to hold the lock cable back a bit without causing wear or drag on the cable? As for the first stop being too high to work in the engine compartment, you could always just use a low step stool to get yourself an extra foot off the ground.
step stool is always an option but won't beat walking around the car :)
For the anchors you should vacuum out or blow air into the hole and get all the dust out. That way the bolts will hold the load that they are rated for. On jobs doing structural steel we could fail inspection if the holes weren't clean before the anchor is installed. Another tip, mark your drill bit with tape so you know how deep to go.
Also brush out the holes with an appropriate size bottle brush to mechanically clean the bore of loose material. The epoxy needs solid concrete, not dust to adhere properly.
Certified structual welder here. The distortion on the bottom plate is normal. When you weld a plate to a beam the weld cools and pulls the edges up because the weld shrinks the material on top around the heated area. The hotter the weld the more distortion. You can try to control how much is moves around with preheat and pre bending the plate in the opposite direction but all steel will move enough that we had to shim nearly every beam we installed. One way to fix this is to machine the plate after its welded but that costs too much.
Thanks! Another milestone in you're endeavors forward sir; I appreciate all the info on this lift, I'll be waiting to view the new parts washer, and further work on the prelude. 👍🏻 ( Shop is looking excellent 👍🏻)
Thank you, stay tuned :)
Your shop looks great! So glad that you have a car lift now. I'm wanting to achieve the same for a personal shop in the future. Thank you for the informative video and keep up the great work.
A design flaw yes but I'd fasten a piece of Delrin in 2 or 3 places which would self lubricate and never cause an issue for locking cable. Thank you for pointing it out though. I'm in the midst of trying to choose a good 2 post symmetrical lift and want safe reliable operation
A lot more complicated than I would have imagined. Great advice (and warnings) about lifts. Too bad you could not wait for the other lift brands. I would put jackstands under the vehicle at 12 inches high or just stay out from below everything when working at that height. Thank you for a great video.
np thanks for watching.
I would look for the ALI sticker on any lift I would consider . They torcher test every model that has the sticker and if they don’t pass that model doesn’t get the sticker. Anchors are torqued to 150 foot pounds and should be retorqued annually to 85-90 pounds . Always work with load resting on locks and don’t walk away with out lowering to locks.
Man you made an excellent tutorial here! I'm a millwright and could easily install my new lift following your directions. I too am in the process of researching different lifts for my new home garage. I'm in Canada so the prices are a little higher due to the exchange rate.
Finally! No more laying on your back for money! 😉🤣
You're a beast for lifting those by yourself 💪💪, wish I lived lil closer would have helped you. Not too far, I'm up on the Central Coast. Can always build some cribbing blocks to slide under the car or wheels on low heights 🤙
Excellent tutorial! Funny how your Jag was within crashing range as you lifted the posts! Nice work. Thanks
yea I moved the RS6 out of the way though :)
Some excellent information and critiques on the Bend pack install! Well done!! Be safe! 👍👍👍
Thanks, will do!
We have the bendpak mid rise floor lift. Have been working great the last several years. Good for what we use it for. Not for under the car kinda work
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video, I am glad you did not injure yourself lifting the posts
I see a prelude on the background, those cars are making a comeback.
I recently purchased a 10,000 pound “A plus lift” pick mine up with my two wheel 12 foot trailer Unloaded it off the trailer by myself using come along to snub it and rolled it off on a 8” round fence post cut in 4 (2 ft each ) rolls around nice in one peace.
Good presentation.
Regarding the first stop on the lift being to high in order to get the vehicle up to a working height I would have no problem working on the car with it resting on the hydralics, or for some additional safety, putting a jack stand or two under the lift arm supports for safety and or to take the load off the hydraulics. My thinking that even having a lower click stop support on the lift would not be the perfect height for your size and the variations in cars anyway, so it's something you would probably need to fine tune. Jack stand or two, or cut some thick timbers the correct dimension to suit your comfort.
there are work arounds but non as good as a lower first stop :)
@@myRatchets Sure, but since the distance between the frame / rocker boxes and the level of the where the engine actrually sits and fender height varies between cars so much, I would say there is no one ideal first top level. As such the jack stands or custom cut wood blocks might be the preferred choice anyway.
In any case I think it's trivial and easy to work with.
Of course if your moving the vehicle up and down from the floor a lot, it's more of a hassle. If you're moving between a high and low position a lot, then the blocks, or jackstands will be a potential trip hazard.
Good explanations.. though I would've liked to hear more about the anchor bolts and the cement requirements to mount these poles.
Nice video! I also have the BendPak asymmetrical lift and I back vehicles onto mine. I mostly work on BMWs which are around 50/50 weight distribution so I figure it doesn't matter. 6 years later and it's been fine.
Check if the equalization cable would stop the lift from lowering unevenly during a failed lock release.
Great vid for guys getting a new lift.
Great video! However, one does not "Level the posts , both ways". It seems many have not been taught ""Level" and "Plumb". Horizontal (parallel to the plane of the horizon, at right angles to the vertical) is "Level" .
Vertical (straight up and down, at right angle to the vertical) is called "Plumb".
You can still work on a sedan engine at 16 inches, just don't get under it. Or slide some jack stands under it for safety.
That's what I do, I don't use any jack stands either never once had a problem, The only time I care about the locks is when under it of course also I'll use a tri post under the rear end sometimes if needed.
What a beautiful shop. You are an absolute beast sir! Hats off to you and thanks for all the good information.
Wow, lifted by yourself! Great video, very detailed information!
This seems like a dream come true. Even the part where you wrestle the posts into place. It is 4 days later, how's that back feel buddy?!? :)
its a bit sore but I should be alright :)
The pads at the bottom are not flat because of distortion caused when they and the gussets were welded to the post. This situation is unavoidable and has nothing to do with the strength of the steel. Use of shims is common practice in this situation. Great video by the way. Hope you get lots of use out of it.
That's NO excuse. Shotty welders.
ooo ooo RnW, i REALLY appreciated the explanation on why you got what you got - why not a 4-poster? I've been eyeing a Wildfire lift for all the fun stuff they throw on them. Same issue with delivery, etc?
I really like my Wildfire 4 post. Especially because I can move it around.
OK, it's a job but it does move!!!!
redrok
I don't know if anyone else mentioned in the comments, but the reason why your bottom mounting plates need the shim's, is because guess what, when you weld steel it tends to curl / move / not stay flat, unless the factory uses what is called a "strong-Backs," to aid in keeping the steel / flat / straight. That cost the manufacturer time & money.
I understand safety is very important , however if you are only raising the car 12” off the ground to make it more comfortable to work on the engine I would view the safety lock issue as a very minor inconvenience . Thanks for sharing
I would just use jack stands for that low of a height. I would LOVE to have a lift like this or access to one. I only work on my family's vehicles so I can't justify the cost in my head for something like this.
Get one of those "upright crawlers" that look like a two step ladder made for working over the hood of the bigger pickups and one tons. This supports your upper body out over the engine and eliminates back strain. Spending all day bent over is a prescription for back problems if you don't already have them! Normally you would use the spacers to set the base but before ever using it that gap would be grouted in with a high strength grout.
Congrats on your new shop. I'm jealous
thank you :)
A generally good video, but a few comments if I may:
1. Any video on the subject should always include a warning on making sure your concrete pad has the correct mix (strength rating) and thickness. Your anchors also have to have a minimum embedment.
2. I would not comment on materials unless I can back it up with evidence. Keep it down to facts.
3. The safety release cable does indeed run too close to the cable. Good catch.
Yeah, I was wondering as well about concrete thickness and strength.
He talks about concrete thickness and psi pertaining to lift requirements in the shop build video 👍
Thanks for great detail info of the Benpak Lift installation. Quick question ? how much concrete area ( cubic inch , WxLxD ) do you need for anchoring the posts. any need of concert rebar?
you need rebar and the minimum concrete thickness should be 4.75" and 3500psi according to bendpak but I would go 6"-8" deep in the areas where you will be putting the lift if you are doing a pour. as far as WxLxD that will depend on whether you are just doing a pour for the two posts alone or its part of a larger pad, if its part of a larger pad I would say the areas around the posts 2' out should be good, but I don't know the answer if you are doing it just for the posts. I personally wouldn't pour concrete just for two posts. I would pour concrete for the entire garage/shed etc. GL
And you should stay 8” from any saw cut or cracks in the concrete
Now that you have a lift, you're going to wonder how you got along without one. Congratulations!
Yes! Thank you!
Wow amazing person
My teacher
KNOWLEDGEABLE Ratchets and Wrenches
Well done 👏 ✔️ 👍 👌 Thank you for sharing it Take care and have a great Weekend with all your family around you
KNOWLEDGEABLE Ratchets and Wrenches
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thank you Nick.
Another possible fix, simpler than the roller (which is the ultimate fix) would be to invert the romex clamp. A little more difficult to install but doable. The wiring could then be held to the side in the same manner as you are currently redirecting the cable.
I've had a BendPak 10k symmetrical lift for about 10 years. What a great investment, I paid $3300, installed, and it has paid for itself several times over on reduced maintenance costs. If you have a place to install one, get one.
Very nice! That lift is going to be great for you. It's like "wow I have a lift!"
It sure is :)
Beautiful 👍👍👍👍
So very thorough, as usual. I know third best is disappointing, but you can make it work if anyone can, and something is better than nothing, eh?
very true, plus I can always get another lift :)
wow. Didn't know the wait time was so long for the challenger and rotary's. :-\
Nice video!
yea it was a bummer to find out.
Perfect tutorial. Very detailed. Love the commentary! 👏
Love the shop!
Thank you!
The steel is not likely softer. When the steel is welded it warps as it cools. It will pull from different points as it cools depending on the edge distance from the welds. While is is possible to weld something slowly and allow for some movement it is very unlikely that it is perfectly square. The issue is that your floor while overall may be level it is not very likely to be really flat. I would not be at all surprised if you had undulations up to a 1/4" in your slab.
Yes milder steel no good
Another great video as always. I've owned my BendPak for about 5 years. They have performed well. Although I like the lift, I do agree with your "cons".
Great video! You covered a lot of great information! Especially appreciate that you discussed the advantages/disadvantages of symmetrical vs asymmetrical two post lifts. I would however suggest limiting your comments (speculation) regarding the strength of the steel without factually knowing the grade of steel for the products you are discussing. Since your steel strength comments are obviously based on speculation and not based actually specifications, you risk putting out bad information which your viewers may mistake as factual information.
A few weeks vs 6 months? Yeah, I don't blame ya for "settling" for this lift. At least it gets the job done!
yea no way I can wait that long after spending so much time and energy building the shop.
Test the levels you buy in the store for trueness before you buy. I've found many levels aren't true, especially the plastic ones, but fancy aluminum levels can be out
Thats funny, I had to through out a broken aluminum one that was giving me false results on these posts.
@@myRatchets got tired of setting showers thinking the tools were fine. Couldn't figure out why I had such a hard time. The garbage tool manufacturers try to pass of as quality is getting bad. I always test them in the store. Like the drywall t squares that are3/8" out in 4 ft. F@*#^!ng crap
Great job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
congrats sire and Rotary for the win
Thank you for the video. Great info!
I'm too old, broke & sick to ever afford a lift like that & despite being jealous, I watched & gave you thumbs up anyway.
Haha thank you, hey you can just sit back and watch me do the work 🙂
Having made my living under a lift for 30 years, my experience is there is no comparison between the quality of a Bend Pak and a Challenger. The Challenger is garbage. The bore in the arms where they pivot on the pins wear out and elongate after only a couple years of commercial use. Rotary lifts used to be the paragon of quality but they are now built to a price point so if you want that Rotary quality you have to buy their top tier (most expensive) to get it. My experience with Bend Pak is that they just keep working.
The directions that came with the car lift said “…assembly takes 15 min.”
hah something like that.
@@myRatchets nice job by the the way on the video. A bunch of us helped a friend unload his new 4-post lift out of a trailer. Unbelievably heavy long ramps.
good info, thanks. as far as the low height limitation, is there any way to add some additional safety lock stops, or are safety lock stops absolutely necessary when working only from over head in the case of wanting to lift a few inches for comfort?
You can't add additional safety lock stops but raising the car a few inches is not the most dangerous thing either as in the worst case it will fall a few inches to the ground and hopefully not on your foot or any other object that could damage it etc.
Bendpak is the best at advertising. That’s the only positive comment i can come up with.
Good info, specially on that starting height and the top cable. Things others never cover. Just one question, why not go for a four post lift? I can't remember if you're also in California but with the earthquakes these type sure scare me.
yea there is always that risk, usually you feel it coming so you have enough time to get away. 4 post just takes up too much space and not as easy to work around imo
Great episode, really loved the detail
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice shop! Did you also build that yourself? Price?
yes, you can check out my channel for the build video.
Great job! You're an animal lifting those posts!
Your smart ASF about this stuff
Wow..great video..i believe i have the same lift..oh..i hope you didnt get injured...thanks again
Nice work!
Oblong the hole and just move the back. So it clears the cable. Than you don’t need a roller or those temporary C clamp things.
Best fix! Route the power cable outside/under.
If the base plate is not flat It is highly unlikely that it was bent in the shipping brackets. The shipping brackets are much weaker than the bases. Any out of flatness is most likely warpage from the welding of the column to the base plate. Most concrete may appear level with a long level but can have small humps that can cause the base plates to appear to be not flat. A grinder can remove these high spots allowing the column to sit on the floor better. Of course your floor was probably ground prior to the installation of the epoxy finish. If two lifts weigh the same then their thickness will be the same. All common steel regardless of alloy (unless stainless) and hardness are virtually the same density.
I am a bit concerned by the amount of the concrete anchor bolts threads that are protruding from the nuts in this installation. In a proper installation there should be about 3 threads protruding beyond the nut. When sinking the anchors, I always back the nut off a few threads to allow the anchor to be driven deeper because it will always withdraw some when tightened.
I am impressed by your ability to raise the columns by yourself.
What length anchor bolts and and how deep did you sink them? Thanks
Good morning sir
gm to you as well :)
The overhead cable rubbing a 220V line is a "showstopper" for me,...
It would be good if you showed how to properly adjust the equalizing cable.
what are the specifications of this lift? width and height ?
What is the silver material covering your walls, does it keep the shop cool?
reflective insulation, keeps it cool in the summer and keeps the heat in during winter. Also no condensation as a result either.
Building insulation. Many types at your local Home Depot. Helps cut down on heating/cooling.
Thank-You sir for taking the time to make an excellent video gave me hope that I can erect my post by myself also.
What time does he talk about the Rotary lift?
Looks perfect 👍🤘
Thanks 👍
Was just looking at lifts today, tough decisions cause I have 1 ton trucks and a bmw
If the steel for the post is too hard or if fails it would be sudden failure; softer steel will start to bend and would be noticeable.
There has to be a balance, but harder steel would have to be supper overloaded by the weight (probably beyond the power of the pump) to simply break off. Most of the breakaway tension is in the arms and the heads anyway.
@@myRatchets I think this is worth a look at the type and quality of steel used in the post construction, hopefully not Chineseium! 😱😱
@14:30 you missed the chance at a good hulk hogan flex toward the camera, good job though
Ha yup should have
Installed my 10as alone , it was Interesting
Nice
I'm very surprised you can't stand under it. How tall it the lift. I have a chinese 12k unit and the direct rams are a little over 6ft, so it can lift the car 6ft off the ground. I guess I'm only 5-10 so that must explain why I fit no problem when its up as high as it goes.
You may also want to consider a WORTH lift, completely made in the U.S.A. Texas to be exact. I have had my 12,000 lb Worth lift for 7 years & totally satisfied.
You have a nice shop. How big is it?
Rick
Think its 40x50
You can get screen door rollers (they have a U shape in the center of the wheel) in various configurations at the local box store. You could also put a micro switch on the lever handle that activates when you pull the lever, then wire a solenoid to activate on the opposite side to pull the lock when you pull the lever. A suggestion - mark on the floor with a magic marker where the front tire lines up to make the car centered side to side and also front to back. I use a "T" on the drivers front laid on it's side (-l) to mark where the front tire lines up. The "l" part I use to make the front tire line up right next to (parallel), and the "-" I use to tell where the center of the tire should stop (perpendicular). I do this for the vehicles I put up on the lift most often. Using a center line or a ball on a string can produce inconsistent results (like when the vehicle is skewed at an angle). This "-l" method works most consistently for me, I just poke my head out of the drivers side window and drive right in, all lined up. If you are worried about having a mark on the floor, use lacquer thinner to remove it (bare concrete) or just wipe it off on epoxy coated floors.
good info thanks.
If your lift is properly grounded then if the cable comes in contact with an energized wire, your circuit breaker would open eliminating the possibility of electrocution.
Get a 90* version of that cable clamp at your local home center.
what kind of insulation do you have in you shop. thank you
He is an Iranian wrestler. No wonder why he is tough and hardworking.
:)
I would buy 2 of these for my 20K lb tractor but the design flaws really bother me and I'd need to raise it another foot.
AWESOME! thanks for the info!
Id be tempted to anchor the top of the lift to numerous places on the roof trusses via steel cables and not just trust the floor bolts .
I agree about the cable rubbing not cool!!!
To lift the car and work on it just to save your back you don't need to go to the first click.....
Just lift it as much as you need it should not drop
did you make the footholes deeper for where the lift is mounted?
yes they are 8"-10" deep
Excellent video thanks
np, thanks for watching.
Who does this solo!?
This guy :)
Wish you could be closer to DC I would like to work for you