Amazing craftmanship as usual. I don't follow this series (even though a die-hard Trekkie) but I am intrigued on this build. Much like the Matt Jeffries inspired Shuttle Craft it's very cool to see a "concept" brought to life! Merry Christmas and the best in 2025. I am booking my flight to WONDERFEST this week-hope to see you there.
So much fun! Always an interesting experience transferring from an animated creation into something that has to exist in reality. So many choices to make!
Hi Lou, Looking great so far. Not sure if it was mentioned here, but COB LED lighting for the nacelles would be a pretty good solution to using LED tape lighting. No hot spots. Anyway, merry Christmas.
I like your idea of capping off the ends of the nacelles. I was wondering if you would run fiber optic for the aft formation lights on the nacelles, but it was so cramped inside them. Looking very good Lou.
Mark me down for a masking set!! This kit could have an entire interior masking set for light blocking and light reflection using black vinyl and the silver tape. A set of masks like that would be expensive. I wonder if Paragrafix will make a replacement part for that rear inset area that has windows?
Hi Lou. A really interesting and fun build. I have the whole of the last season to catch up on so it would be great to binge watch while building this kit. Have a good Christmas. Thanks for the invitation but I think I'll spend Christmas with my family rather than yours! 😀
Hi Lou , glad to see your working on the Cerritos as always a fine job , I have heard what you stated about the light blocking in my experiences I have come across something that could make things a bit easier for you & others , that being Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1500 black now you can get it easily through your stores & it comes in rattle can or brush on plus when thinned down I have used it in my airbrush I used Mr enamel thinner for that & yes it has helped me greatly with light blocking . All I did was put down window masks & sprayed it black the surface came out as smooth as silk & the paint holds better too, Lou keep up the good work .
Your enthusiasm is a delight to see-- and go through! I couldn't help but notice your beam compass-- and I doff my cap to an old production man! I had a note I wanted to throw over the transom-- that your sensor dish LED could be modified with a dot of black on the front. That way there's not such a hot spot and plenty of fill lighting all around. At this time of year-- things get all emotional. But I think your example of modeling is an inspiration and one that I plan on emulating in the new year. Do have a merry and jolly Christmas with that family of yours! I'll be doing same. Cheers one and all!
I thought of just grinding down the tip of the dome on the led, but 99% of my decisions are based on the supplies I have on hand, and I had enough of the blue smleds to do the job.
@@aztekdummy I knew you must've thought of that and just went in another direction. I've done that-- but there is still a hot spot. Your solution works well.
Great work Lou, I can't help thinking that the pontoon flipped over the top of the saucer could be the makings of a what if Reliant refit? Happy Christmas to you buddy.
Lou, concerning the problem of hiding the LEDs but still letting the light out, here's something I've done that should work well for you in conjunction with the fiber fill. After airbrushing the clear parts with their respective transparent colors from the inside, I also put on a heavily thinned, almost cloudy coat of white over the transparent colors (still on the inside of the part). It not only hides the LEDs (as long as they're not directly against or super close to the clear parts) it also seems to work as a form of mild reflector so that less lights are needed for the job. My best example of this is my 1/1000 scale NX-01 where every LED would have been glaringly obvious has it not been for the combination of white dusting and the exterior flat coat. I'd share a picture, but that's sadly not the nature of TH-cam comment sections.
I’ve got mine ordered, but I won’t be able to do any painting until spring. Parents won’t let me use an airbrush in the house. I’m glad you’re making masks for this kit. They’ll come in handy along with the Aztek decals being released for the kit. Any plans to try and change how the dome base stand works so that it doesn’t block the deflector dish?
Can you significantly tell the difference when you're building a recent 'reissue' of something you've previously made, such as Voyager where there's been reiterations for the last thirty years, versus where it's a brand new 'issue' of a kit like this one?
HDA has smaller chip sizes and higher densities for those LED tapes. I think theres a COB one that's 4mm wide. Could place them back to back and create a cylinder of light within the nacelle Edit: the smallest they have is actually 2.7mm wide! If you place a strip along each side in that little spot where you made black vynil for, it should take care of the full 360!
The blue nacelle lighting looks like the ideal application for LED filaments. Are they not bright enough in your estimation or do you just not have any in blue? Do you suppose there will be an opaque version sold? Strikes me it would actually be easier and simpler to light, particularly the nacelles with them having transparent parts anyway. I cut the cable long before Lower Decks came along and don’t do streaming- Hollywood bores me these days- but that’s an interesting ship. I mean, it’s hard to see how crew gets from the dish to the engineering pod particularly while the warp drive is engaged, but other than that the design brings some of the old Frank Joseph designs to mind. The engineering pod not being directly connected to the dish makes the wiring wired but I guess that since a cartoon-I-mean-animated show doesn’t need physical models, the designers felt free to be less than practical. In any case this is a fun build to watch. Great luck-out on the Bussards lighting way easier than you originally thought.
How do you walk from the saucer to engineering or vice versa? Oh well, at least the kurtzman era is coming to a close. Lou, I'll watch you build any starship, even if I hate the source material.
Oberth is a complete mess in that regard due to its minuscle size. California is large enough that you can put turbo lifts and hallways into the pylons. As for the nacelles, we saw them be inside the nacelle in TNG season 7 once. I fully believe they're capable of shielding and insulating hallways and turbolifts to reach the engineering section. But yes, it is a really weird and stupid design. Not as bad as the Oberth, but getting there.
Everyone uses LEDS of some fashion....no one uses the readily available and far more realistic looking EL tape or wire, where you get zero hotspots, and its already evenly diffused....then theres electrical conducting paint, that works quite well at these low voltages for super tight spots where you dint want to fuss with wiring.
Hah! Your build of this kit does make the ship look good though. But the design of the ship still looks like a 60s vision of a futuristic coffee table.
Sadly, it is a perfect representation of the quality of the show and the state that this class of ship is named after. I loved living in Cali many years ago, but it is in very bad shape atm. I will still watch to support Lou.
I’ve got mine ordered, but I won’t be able to do any painting until spring. Parents won’t let me use an airbrush in the house. I’m glad you’re making masks for this kit. They’ll come in handy along with the Aztek decals being released for the kit. Any plans to try and change how the dome base stand works so that it doesn’t block the deflector dish?
Amazing craftmanship as usual. I don't follow this series (even though a die-hard Trekkie) but I am intrigued on this build. Much like the Matt Jeffries inspired Shuttle Craft it's very cool to see a "concept" brought to life! Merry Christmas and the best in 2025. I am booking my flight to WONDERFEST this week-hope to see you there.
I am so happy you’re doing the Cerritos. I was hoping to see your take since the model was released.
I was so excited for this kit release, this video has made me even more excited! Thanks for a great video Lou!
Thanks so much! Now when I think of Santa Claus, I'll imagine Lou Dalmaso. Wonderful Christmas present.
So much fun! Always an interesting experience transferring from an animated creation into something that has to exist in reality. So many choices to make!
Hi Lou, Looking great so far. Not sure if it was mentioned here, but COB LED lighting for the nacelles would be a pretty good solution to using LED tape lighting. No hot spots. Anyway, merry Christmas.
Merry Christmas Lou 🎉
I like your idea of capping off the ends of the nacelles. I was wondering if you would run fiber optic for the aft formation lights on the nacelles, but it was so cramped inside them. Looking very good Lou.
Looking good! Merry Christmas!
Great work - and Merry Christmas!
I can't wait for mine to arrive so I can start. I will definitely be using your videos as a guide
Same here.😁
Have A Merry Chrismas Lou ! 🎇
Lou, why not use a long Blue LED filament in the Nacelles, that way you get 360 degree lighting the full length and it can be centered in the nacelle.
but you don't have a single full length channel in the center. you have those pockets the engineering pod slot into.
Mark me down for a masking set!!
This kit could have an entire interior masking set for light blocking and light reflection using black vinyl and the silver tape.
A set of masks like that would be expensive.
I wonder if Paragrafix will make a replacement part for that rear inset area that has windows?
Excellent work on the light blocking puzzle. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build. Merry Christmas Lou
Been waiting for you to tackle this one looking great! Also love the show and sad to see it go.
Hi Lou. A really interesting and fun build. I have the whole of the last season to catch up on so it would be great to binge watch while building this kit. Have a good Christmas. Thanks for the invitation but I think I'll spend Christmas with my family rather than yours! 😀
You caught that..😂 I could have phrased that better 🎉🎉
Cool deflector
Hi Lou , glad to see your working on the Cerritos as always a fine job , I have heard what you stated about the light blocking in my experiences I have come across something that could make things a bit easier for you & others , that being Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1500 black now you can get it easily through your stores & it comes in rattle can or brush on plus when thinned down I have used it in my airbrush I used Mr enamel thinner for that & yes it has helped me greatly with light blocking . All I did was put down window masks & sprayed it black the surface came out as smooth as silk & the paint holds better too, Lou keep up the good work .
Your enthusiasm is a delight to see-- and go through! I couldn't help but notice your beam compass-- and I doff my cap to an old production man! I had a note I wanted to throw over the transom-- that your sensor dish LED could be modified with a dot of black on the front. That way there's not such a hot spot and plenty of fill lighting all around.
At this time of year-- things get all emotional. But I think your example of modeling is an inspiration and one that I plan on emulating in the new year. Do have a merry and jolly Christmas with that family of yours! I'll be doing same. Cheers one and all!
I thought of just grinding down the tip of the dome on the led, but 99% of my decisions are based on the supplies I have on hand, and I had enough of the blue smleds to do the job.
@@aztekdummy I knew you must've thought of that and just went in another direction. I've done that-- but there is still a hot spot. Your solution works well.
Great work Lou, I can't help thinking that the pontoon flipped over the top of the saucer could be the makings of a what if Reliant refit? Happy Christmas to you buddy.
Lou, concerning the problem of hiding the LEDs but still letting the light out, here's something I've done that should work well for you in conjunction with the fiber fill. After airbrushing the clear parts with their respective transparent colors from the inside, I also put on a heavily thinned, almost cloudy coat of white over the transparent colors (still on the inside of the part). It not only hides the LEDs (as long as they're not directly against or super close to the clear parts) it also seems to work as a form of mild reflector so that less lights are needed for the job. My best example of this is my 1/1000 scale NX-01 where every LED would have been glaringly obvious has it not been for the combination of white dusting and the exterior flat coat. I'd share a picture, but that's sadly not the nature of TH-cam comment sections.
@@matthewharroun8618 interesting. I'll have to give that a try
Equivalent of placing some thin white styrene between the lights and the clear part.
Merry Ho Ho Lou!!!! Lookin awful sweet for a rush job. Lol!!!
Merry Christmas Lou! Thanks for this video.
I’ve got mine ordered, but I won’t be able to do any painting until spring. Parents won’t let me use an airbrush in the house. I’m glad you’re making masks for this kit. They’ll come in handy along with the Aztek decals being released for the kit. Any plans to try and change how the dome base stand works so that it doesn’t block the deflector dish?
Can you significantly tell the difference when you're building a recent 'reissue' of something you've previously made, such as Voyager where there's been reiterations for the last thirty years, versus where it's a brand new 'issue' of a kit like this one?
Yes. Generally, new kits are crisper in detail and thinner in walls than older kits.
@aztekdummy Thank you😀
Lou HDL modelworx has LED 0603 blue lightstrip 3.3 volts wired at both ends! Is this helpful?
HDA has smaller chip sizes and higher densities for those LED tapes. I think theres a COB one that's 4mm wide. Could place them back to back and create a cylinder of light within the nacelle
Edit: the smallest they have is actually 2.7mm wide! If you place a strip along each side in that little spot where you made black vynil for, it should take care of the full 360!
I think once you see the kit, you'll see there isn't the single central opening in the nacelles for a Central shaft of lighting
I would use blue neon led strips for the nacelles!!
@@nicholasklangos9704 I wish there was the room
The blue nacelle lighting looks like the ideal application for LED filaments. Are they not bright enough in your estimation or do you just not have any in blue?
Do you suppose there will be an opaque version sold? Strikes me it would actually be easier and simpler to light, particularly the nacelles with them having transparent parts anyway.
I cut the cable long before Lower Decks came along and don’t do streaming- Hollywood bores me these days- but that’s an interesting ship. I mean, it’s hard to see how crew gets from the dish to the engineering pod particularly while the warp drive is engaged, but other than that the design brings some of the old Frank Joseph designs to mind. The engineering pod not being directly connected to the dish makes the wiring wired but I guess that since a cartoon-I-mean-animated show doesn’t need physical models, the designers felt free to be less than practical.
In any case this is a fun build to watch. Great luck-out on the Bussards lighting way easier than you originally thought.
I know they make blue filament, but you can't cut them to the length you want and they need a structure to keep them straight.
How do you walk from the saucer to engineering or vice versa? Oh well, at least the kurtzman era is coming to a close. Lou, I'll watch you build any starship, even if I hate the source material.
intership transporters
@@aztekdummy I get that, but there is no way to get between the two if the transporters are down. Not good design.
Oberth class has the same issue and that's peak Nimoy Trek
Oberth is a complete mess in that regard due to its minuscle size.
California is large enough that you can put turbo lifts and hallways into the pylons.
As for the nacelles, we saw them be inside the nacelle in TNG season 7 once. I fully believe they're capable of shielding and insulating hallways and turbolifts to reach the engineering section.
But yes, it is a really weird and stupid design. Not as bad as the Oberth, but getting there.
Merry Crimbo lou
An additional comment: are you considering providing masks to do the ring at the very very front of the bussard collector?
Let me look. Should be a simple ring.
sand the inside of the clear, matte spray and fiberfill
would love a sandblaster. so many angles to sand around with regular tools
@@aztekdummy That would solve alot of problems.
AZTEC IT !!!
Frost the clear parts.
Everyone uses LEDS of some fashion....no one uses the readily available and far more realistic looking EL tape or wire, where you get zero hotspots, and its already evenly diffused....then theres electrical conducting paint, that works quite well at these low voltages for super tight spots where you dint want to fuss with wiring.
@@thislonelyplanet I've never seen El wire that was bright enough
Dig it
great kit. hoping for Axanar ships here too
not a chance
Entertaining Lou but this is one of the most but ugly ships in Trek. Worth watching you build though.
i prefer homely.
Hah!
Your build of this kit does make the ship look good though. But the design of the ship still looks like a 60s vision of a futuristic coffee table.
Would love to see a Protostar kit and build. That’s a pretty ship… or comely if you prefer Lou.
Sadly, it is a perfect representation of the quality of the show and the state that this class of ship is named after. I loved living in Cali many years ago, but it is in very bad shape atm. I will still watch to support Lou.
@@SlickNickBAshow quality???? Really???
I’ve got mine ordered, but I won’t be able to do any painting until spring. Parents won’t let me use an airbrush in the house. I’m glad you’re making masks for this kit. They’ll come in handy along with the Aztek decals being released for the kit. Any plans to try and change how the dome base stand works so that it doesn’t block the deflector dish?