Please heed this advice. I only want to help....This video is in error. You must use a clean 12 volt power line to the module! Connecting it to the positive on the coil feeds it a reduced amount of voltage and that's why they don't last. It must receive 12 Solid Volts. The original FoMoCo wire coming into the + coil is a reduced voltage. The Pertronix instructions say that both the module and the coil should get full 12V. Not the reduced voltage the original Ford wire suplies the coil when the key is in Run position. That is why so many comment that theirs failed.
Well done video. Engaging no-nonsense presenter, very good camera work and editing... example; stopping the timing sequence so we could see the marks. When the video maker gives some careful consideration to how the information is presented it really does make it much more understandable. Thanks!
One of the best and clearest instructional videos on car engine's electronic upgrade yet. Clear, step-by-step are the best help to anyone who still owns a classic car. Well done.
@V_ AP Bad installation can certainly cause it to fail, and many last a very long time with happy owners. But if you're a tech or engineer and examine the electronics with an oscilloscope you will see the triggering all over the place. Pertronix systems are always down on dyno power because of spark scatter. And the retrofit version with embedded magnets in the ring is especially bad with even worse timing variation on each cylinder because the magnet position in the epoxy varies, plus huge magnet ring warpage means the gap varies. The GM version is usually warped .060" or more right out of the box. This has nothing to do with halfwits installing wrong, and just because they run and your "butt dyno" can't detect problems doesn't mean they run right. Add a little heat and you can watch things get even worse. The design and manufacturing is poor. A high failure rate is just one way they are junk. And, while I agree that that halfwits can screw up the installation, the fact they can do it so easily is even more evidence of a bad design. The failure rate among the other brand conversions (Mallory, Crane, FAST, etc) is far, far lower because their design and manufacturing is far, far better.
I did this to my '70 f250 with a 390FE. It's been running reliably for 3 years and starts way easier. I think the only time this system has failed is due to operator error at install. Definitely no complaints here.
Pertronix now offers a relay kit to solve the Ford "pink wire" problem. Or you can get your own but make sure the relay coil has a diode across + & - with a 30 amp contact rating.
And put those breaker points, condenser, and wires in a plastic bag and place it in your glovebox. That way when the A-bomb drops you can put them back on and drive off into a radioactive future full of zombies.
I put an HEI distributor for 50 bucks off e-bay on my '79 Merc Marquis. Could not fix the original electronics. Works great and combines the coil and spark module in one unit. *Here's a crimping trick. Line up where you need to put the crimp on the terminal or butt splice with the tool then leave it in the tool. Bring the wire to the tool and then crimp it.
SatchmoSings I'm not entirely sure what your saying about old car motors not lasting as long as new car motors. Perhaps in many cases but my Dart's 225 slant six is on a points and condenser distributor (I'll be upgrading to electronic ignition shortly) and its 40 years old. Its odometer has rolled over twice now, at least 600,000 miles on the car and she's still running like a champ :P Never had an engine overhaul either, though I probably should haha.
Very cool. Very concise and well-shot. Thank you very much. (My buddy found a mid 70s V8 Dodge pickup on a compound he just bought. (A D100?) She looks to be in very good shape, and I was just wondering how to replace the old points on it. I mean, who has a matchbook on them these days?) Stellar work and thanks again.
I installed a Pertronix igniter in my ‘68 Cougar 25 years ago & it’s been flawless. By the way, get rid of that deadly fuel filter. Those are notorious for leaking fuel & potentially causing a fire.
I installed one on my 71/302, 3 years ago. Better performance, gas mileage and way, way easier to maintain. Every once in a while, I run into purists that think you diminish the value of your muscle car by removing the points and condenser. Sure, whatever. 🙄 I recommend it to anyone with a classic. And anyway, as others have pointed out, Keep the old points and condenser and put them away someplace handy. You can always put them back on for car shows or when you get ready to sell.
I was considering this with my 1965 Mustang. Im getting real sick of my points burning seemingly prematurely (probably some underlying electrical problem causing it tho). I believe my points burning is causing the recurring stutter issues with the engine (usually happens after it gets to operating temperature). And now its doing it to me for the third time in about 5 years. I swear the old points system is as weak as the ignition system in a Mazda RX8.
I have this on my 71 Dodge, and it works great! But for some reason, left my key in the on position and ran the battery completely dead. Can any harm come to my magnetic pickup or ignition coil?
nice vid :) simple, good video and clear focus/lighting. make sure on auto cars the engines warmed up - chokes usually engage fast idle which can throw u off.. it must be idling @ normal temps when setting initial timing.
Help i put on of these on a 72 pontiac lemans and when i went to crank it over the hot wire leading into the distributor started to smoke and got hot what did i do wrong
I'd replace the coil to get the most out of the kit but if the cap is fine, there's no reason to replace it. Like he said, if they look a little corroted, sand them.
A superb video but I have some questions. My main motivation to changing to electronic ignition is that, at least on very modern cars, ignition is truly precise; with points, it's close but not perfect; this is precisely why modern cars engines last so much longer. While I do understand the advantage to getting rid of points, does the system you installed fire the spark with the same precision as a truly modern car does and remember, you don't have all the other computers with this old Mustang
So doing this upgrade wont affect the resistor wire that is installed into the ignition system from the factory? That also looks like the original coil intended for resistor wire or ballast resistor!
I have a question I have a 68 chevelle I’m putting a mopar 440 in how can I do away with the ballast resistor? And if I can’t how would I go about adding one ?
I just tried converting my 69 Lincoln mark III to this 1281 pertronix system. The magnetic ring fits very loose on the shaft and just spins freely. It will not press down any further. I assume it’s supposed to fit much tighter? Could it just be a defective part?
Did he put the vacuum hose back on that he blocked off ? Must have just didn’t see it after set timing But Very good learn video. On a nice classic as well.
Well but that's my point the breaker played on the Ford distributor is good for about ten thousand miles if it's brand new. So if you're using a used or original breaker plate the system you just bought it in there go to be flipping and flopping all over the place.
I have a 68 Olds I'd like to do this to. Did your ignition coil have a ignition capacitor on it? I didn't see one. Just wanted to make sure that stays or not when converting over.
Doesn't show what nut loosens the distributor so he can turn it to adjust the timing. nor does it show which way he turned the distributor. Even the timing marks are all but invisible on this video. I'm glad he mentions the squared-off interior surface of the black magnet that fits over the distributor shaft. The 'lobes' on the inside surface of the magnet are definitely not obvious, and there's no mention of aligning them in the pertronix instructions.
hi, I just replace Module and Coil for my Opel Kadett 1.4 engine, 1993 model, but now it overflow petrol, it does not pick up speed on acceleration, please help guys.
Thanks for the video! QUESTION: Could you recommend a upgraded distributor for my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6? I am going from a prestolite ignition to a GM TBI with fuel injection and a ecm.. Hope to allow the ecm to control spark/timing... :) Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
Only question I have of this video of upgrading the electronics of the Mustang is what other wire did the mechanic cut, crimp an attachment to and screw to the coil? That part was not entirely clear? Anyone know?
You're better getting a good electronic ignition distributor and then use the module the electronic part to the coil aftermarket MSD or something. And stay away from carbon spark plug wires used the good ones you'll see a little circular coil type picture on the side of them those are the good ones.
Likely should have made timing adjustments after the engine had reached full op temp. It's not as easy on a Delco dizzy. But still an easy, great upgrade overall.
I just purchased a 69 fastback hasn’t been driven for a while .. I just installed the petronix igniter . Wires, spark plugs, solenoid. Th car cranks and starts when I turn the key .. but as soon as I let go of the key it just dies! What could be the issue?
How can I modify an electronic ignition system (Rav V) to avoid those outrageous key replacement charges? Until about 2010 you could make copies at places like Wal Mart but no more. Outrageous? $300 from the manufacturer and and up to $1000 from National car rental and most others. Reportedly you can't modify an electronic system if it affects mileage (environment) and safety. If you can convert to an exiting electronic then it must be possible to convert from one. Any help? Mike
I know the video is old, but did you remove the ballast resistor and the ballast resistor wire at the ignition? If you didn't bypass this , then you're only getting 6v at the coil. Pertronix needs 12v to operate correctly.
I've seen guys do this, and I've also seen you guys the said you eliminate it some systems you keep it. I learned how to hook up the duraspark to ignition to all my old Ford. The small blocks the Cleveland all the 460 it's the easiest thing you'll ever set up and you'll never look back parts are on the Shelf ready to go. I am 40 Years of using the system I've come across one bad module and that's it
5point9, Fords don't use a ballast resistor. Power to the coil is 9 volts and resistor is in the ignition switch. Pertronix, and Mallory, systems for Fords is 9 volts.
That wont last long you want to run it to a key on 12v source youre coil positive with key on is at around 6v it will burn out the system sooner than later.
Forgot to connect the ground wire with the mouting screw (Could cause a module failure or intermittent stalling), Didn't set the air gap with the clear plastic gauge that comes with the kit (Again, intermittent stalling or crank, no start). Otherwise all good.
Please heed this advice. I only want to help....This video is in error. You must use a clean 12 volt power line to the module! Connecting it to the positive on the coil feeds it a reduced amount of voltage and that's why they don't last. It must receive 12 Solid Volts. The original FoMoCo wire coming into the + coil is a reduced voltage. The Pertronix instructions say that both the module and the coil should get full 12V. Not the reduced voltage the original Ford wire suplies the coil when the key is in Run position. That is why so many comment that theirs failed.
Well done video. Engaging no-nonsense presenter, very good camera work and editing... example; stopping the timing sequence so we could see the marks. When the video maker gives some careful consideration to how the information is presented it really does make it much more understandable. Thanks!
This is one of the most comprehensive DIY videos I ever came across. Great work guys!
I added Pertronix about 5 years ago to my '68 w/ a 302 and never looked back. Best bang for the buck!
One of the best and clearest instructional videos on car engine's electronic upgrade yet. Clear, step-by-step are the best help to anyone who still owns a classic car. Well done.
Don't forget to mention to take the old points and condenser and put them in your trunk in case that module goes bad and leaves you stranded.
Yep like mine did yesterday. Pertronix was easy to install but hasn't lasted very long. In my opinion waste of money for mine.
Jason Harville : I got 10,000 miles on my petronix kit before it stopped working. What a waste of money.
Pertronix = total junk
@V_ AP Bad installation can certainly cause it to fail, and many last a very long time with happy owners. But if you're a tech or engineer and examine the electronics with an oscilloscope you will see the triggering all over the place. Pertronix systems are always down on dyno power because of spark scatter. And the retrofit version with embedded magnets in the ring is especially bad with even worse timing variation on each cylinder because the magnet position in the epoxy varies, plus huge magnet ring warpage means the gap varies. The GM version is usually warped .060" or more right out of the box. This has nothing to do with halfwits installing wrong, and just because they run and your "butt dyno" can't detect problems doesn't mean they run right. Add a little heat and you can watch things get even worse. The design and manufacturing is poor. A high failure rate is just one way they are junk. And, while I agree that that halfwits can screw up the installation, the fact they can do it so easily is even more evidence of a bad design. The failure rate among the other brand conversions (Mallory, Crane, FAST, etc) is far, far lower because their design and manufacturing is far, far better.
@@ODucks55 8
You did make that look easy . Thanks for posting your work on that beautiful car.
Changed my 66 Mustang 289 to the same one, has worked well for years!
Beautiful classic - and a great vid!
Put this ignition in my 68 mustang 5 years ago, haven't had to touch it since ! 😁👍🏻
Excellent video thanks for posting
I'm no mechanic but this is a hobby I could get into. I've got a 79 dodge b300 tradesman maxivan with a 360ci 4bbl 625cfm carb. Love it.
Your '79 Dodge b300 should already have electronic distributer. Chrysler began using electronic ignition in fall of 1971.
Good informative video - thanks!
I did this to my '70 f250 with a 390FE. It's been running reliably for 3 years and starts way easier. I think the only time this system has failed is due to operator error at install. Definitely no complaints here.
I just went and got a new racing dizzy helps even more for power.
nice car, awesome instructor!
Love that Cicadas sounds!!
Pertronix now offers a relay kit to solve the Ford "pink wire" problem. Or you can get your own but make sure the relay coil has a diode across + & - with a 30 amp contact rating.
I'm thinking of installing a pertronix ignition on my 62 Ranchero. Thank you for a straight forward video and good camera work. Dude was cool as hell.
Good job, explained well.
Mines lasted 28 years. Never had a issue with them. A lot of people screw up the wiring on them. Thunderhead289 has a great video explaining this.
I love classic cars just got me a 65 GTO
And put those breaker points, condenser, and wires in a plastic bag and place it in your glovebox. That way when the A-bomb drops you can put them back on and drive off into a radioactive future full of zombies.
Good video. Thanks much.
very nice video thanx for making it so simple! i just did mine thanx....
To the point! Thank you
Good video. Thanks for doing it.
I put an HEI distributor for 50 bucks off e-bay on my '79 Merc Marquis. Could not fix the original electronics. Works great and combines the coil and spark module in one unit. *Here's a crimping trick. Line up where you need to put the crimp on the terminal or butt splice with the tool then leave it in the tool. Bring the wire to the tool and then crimp it.
nice explanation for a DIY like me.
Thanks, I get this now.
GREAT VIDEO.....!!!!!!
Thanks for the video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
SatchmoSings I'm not entirely sure what your saying about old car motors not lasting as long as new car motors. Perhaps in many cases but my Dart's 225 slant six is on a points and condenser distributor (I'll be upgrading to electronic ignition shortly) and its 40 years old. Its odometer has rolled over twice now, at least 600,000 miles on the car and she's still running like a champ :P Never had an engine overhaul either, though I probably should haha.
You can buy an HEI distributor from Speedway that drops right in and even eliminates the coil.
It's a GM based distributer and takes up too much space. Not good if wanting to keep the vehicle as close to stock as possible either.
Very cool. Very concise and well-shot. Thank you very much. (My buddy found a mid 70s V8 Dodge pickup on a compound he just bought. (A D100?) She looks to be in very good shape, and I was just wondering how to replace the old points on it. I mean, who has a matchbook on them these days?) Stellar work and thanks again.
Nice well done vid👍
That cam on the distributor shaft better have 8 lobes on it instead of 6. I'm sure that was a V8 you were working on.
I installed a Pertronix igniter in my ‘68 Cougar 25 years ago & it’s been flawless.
By the way, get rid of that deadly fuel filter. Those are notorious for leaking fuel & potentially causing a fire.
I installed one on my 71/302, 3 years ago. Better performance, gas mileage and way, way easier to maintain. Every once in a while, I run into purists that think you diminish the value of your muscle car by removing the points and condenser. Sure, whatever. 🙄 I recommend it to anyone with a classic. And anyway, as others have pointed out, Keep the old points and condenser and put them away someplace handy. You can always put them back on for car shows or when you get ready to sell.
I was considering this with my 1965 Mustang. Im getting real sick of my points burning seemingly prematurely (probably some underlying electrical problem causing it tho). I believe my points burning is causing the recurring stutter issues with the engine (usually happens after it gets to operating temperature). And now its doing it to me for the third time in about 5 years.
I swear the old points system is as weak as the ignition system in a Mazda RX8.
I have this on my 71 Dodge, and it works great! But for some reason, left my key in the on position and ran the battery completely dead. Can any harm come to my magnetic pickup or ignition coil?
my question is does the manufacturer of the distributer also sell just the cap and rotor for tune ups?
nice vid :) simple, good video and clear focus/lighting. make sure on auto cars the engines warmed up - chokes usually engage fast idle which can throw u off.. it must be idling @ normal temps when setting initial timing.
Help i put on of these on a 72 pontiac lemans and when i went to crank it over the hot wire leading into the distributor started to smoke and got hot what did i do wrong
I'd replace the coil to get the most out of the kit but if the cap is fine, there's no reason to replace it. Like he said, if they look a little corroted, sand them.
Does the magnet that sets on lobe have to be indexed.. Or is there a magnet per cylinder like the lobes
your the man
I have a 73 thunderbird 460. Was wondering which pertronix model would be best for my car? Or does this system work on all older ford v8s?
brilliant
A superb video but I have some questions.
My main motivation to changing to electronic ignition is that, at least on very modern cars, ignition is truly precise; with points, it's close but not perfect; this is precisely why modern cars engines last so much longer.
While I do understand the advantage to getting rid of points, does the system you installed fire the spark with the same precision as a truly modern car does and remember, you don't have all the other computers with this old Mustang
Im switching from crane cams to petronix wanted to know if the built in rev limiter matters at all
Yes you can see the vac Line is back in place at 7:59 as he puts the air cleaner on.
What is the brand of the conversion kit.? Howmuch does it cost?
Is that a orginal thunderbolt hood on the wall in the background????? I'm in need of one if so!!!!
So doing this upgrade wont affect the resistor wire that is installed into the ignition system from the factory? That also looks like the original coil intended for resistor wire or ballast resistor!
I have a question I have a 68 chevelle I’m putting a mopar 440 in how can I do away with the ballast resistor? And if I can’t how would I go about adding one ?
How do you decide on wires?
Very cool
Does it make a difference if it’s a 6 volt system? Or do they even have them for a 6 volt truck.
I just tried converting my 69 Lincoln mark III to this 1281 pertronix system. The magnetic ring fits very loose on the shaft and just spins freely. It will not press down any further. I assume it’s supposed to fit much tighter? Could it just be a defective part?
My 289 hp has a dual point distributor. Would this work for it? Thank you for video.
Great video well done I have 65 mustang with 6 cyl do they make one for it
Did he put the vacuum hose back on that he blocked off ? Must have just didn’t see it after set timing But Very good learn video. On a nice classic as well.
thankss.....what did it cost.?...bob
Well but that's my point the breaker played on the Ford distributor is good for about ten thousand miles if it's brand new. So if you're using a used or original breaker plate the system you just bought it in there go to be flipping and flopping all over the place.
Do/did you just use the stock plugs, and gap them a little wider?
which do you recommend for a dodge 225 slant six, 1982
I have a 68 Olds I'd like to do this to. Did your ignition coil have a ignition capacitor on it? I didn't see one. Just wanted to make sure that stays or not when converting over.
Doesn't show what nut loosens the distributor so he can turn it to adjust the timing. nor does it show which way he turned the distributor. Even the timing marks are all but invisible on this video.
I'm glad he mentions the squared-off interior surface of the black magnet that fits over the distributor shaft. The 'lobes' on the inside surface of the magnet are definitely not obvious, and there's no mention of aligning them in the pertronix instructions.
Where can I buy the kit from
Will this fit on a classic 1991 mini?
hi, I just replace Module and Coil for my Opel Kadett 1.4 engine, 1993 model, but now it overflow petrol, it does not pick up speed on acceleration, please help guys.
Thanks for the video!
QUESTION: Could you recommend a upgraded distributor for my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6? I am going from a prestolite ignition to a GM TBI with fuel injection and a ecm.. Hope to allow the ecm to control spark/timing... :)
Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
*****
Thanks for the suggestions... :)
I will keep them all in mind...
Only question I have of this video of upgrading the electronics of the Mustang is what other wire did the mechanic cut, crimp an
attachment to and screw to the coil? That part was not entirely clear? Anyone know?
That red wire goes back thru the firewall and to the ignition switch
Can i still hook up my msd 6a box to thos system? Helpp
Thanks. Video is very well done!
Would points resist damage from an EMP blast?
Yes.. As a matter of fact it would! Proves that any 1900 to early 70s vehicle will be the only working transportation after an EMP pulse.
hi, does it fits to toyota 2r engines..thankls
You're better getting a good electronic ignition distributor and then use the module the electronic part to the coil aftermarket MSD or something. And stay away from carbon spark plug wires used the good ones you'll see a little circular coil type picture on the side of them those are the good ones.
id do that to an old car points ignition is outdated electronic ignition probably took off in the 80's then it became coil packs
Likely should have made timing adjustments after the engine had reached full op temp.
It's not as easy on a Delco dizzy. But still an easy, great upgrade overall.
Exactly what I was going to say.
Now if I can just find a Mustang that clean!!
so if your using the stock low resistor wire how many volts will you get? Does anybody have the answer? 6500 on 74 camaro stock hei.
I did this to my 63 Pontiac and haven’t changed points in 15 years.
All it needs some adjustments and it will run fine
Is that a Boss 302
Can I put this in my 352 big block
How can it be a six lobe cam.. its an 8cyl.
He is talking about the lil cam on the distributor the lil black magnetic sleeve goes onto
I just purchased a 69 fastback hasn’t been driven for a while .. I just installed the petronix igniter . Wires, spark plugs, solenoid. Th car cranks and starts when I turn the key .. but as soon as I let go of the key it just dies! What could be the issue?
Sounds like there is no voltage to the coil when it is in the run position.
Next video, do it on the '69 cat in the background!
Awesome 69 cougar in the backround!!
How can I modify an electronic ignition system (Rav V) to avoid those outrageous key replacement charges? Until about 2010 you could make copies at places like Wal Mart but no more. Outrageous? $300 from the manufacturer and and up to $1000 from National car rental and most others. Reportedly you can't modify an electronic system if it affects mileage (environment) and safety. If you can convert to an exiting electronic then it must be possible to convert from one. Any help? Mike
I know the video is old, but did you remove the ballast resistor and the ballast resistor wire at the ignition? If you didn't bypass this , then you're only getting 6v at the coil. Pertronix needs 12v to operate correctly.
1970 HB you’re absolutely right. I have a 71 f250 with a 360ci and I’m gonna install this. Just trying to figure out how to bypass the resistor wire.
I've seen guys do this, and I've also seen you guys the said you eliminate it some systems you keep it. I learned how to hook up the duraspark to ignition to all my old Ford. The small blocks the Cleveland all the 460 it's the easiest thing you'll ever set up and you'll never look back parts are on the Shelf ready to go. I am 40 Years of using the system I've come across one bad module and that's it
5point9, Fords don't use a ballast resistor. Power to the coil is 9 volts and resistor is in the ignition switch. Pertronix, and Mallory, systems for Fords is 9 volts.
Do you not need to set timing and have it set to tdc before installing? Or does plugging the vacuum make that not a thing?
That was my thought also.
You forgot the vacuum hose
Yes, he did put the vacuum hose back on, you can see it is connected when he puts the air cleaner assembly back on.
289,302 or 351w
Will that work on a 1973 or 1974 Chevelle Malibu SUPER SPORT or Type S-3 Laguna with the 5.0 litre or the 5.7 litre 350 Turbofire.
Just put a HEI system out of about a 1975 Chevy. They work quite well swap the whole distributor.
Coil and module are all self contained.
That wont last long you want to run it to a key on 12v source youre coil positive with key on is at around 6v it will burn out the system sooner than later.
Well done, you made it look so easy. Great looking car too! (Can't understand the negative 'thumbs down' though).
would you recommend this on a 302 1990 town car? does it increase fuel economy?
1990 Town car already has electronic ignition. Ford began electronic ignition in 1974.
Forgot to connect the ground wire with the mouting screw (Could cause a module failure or intermittent stalling), Didn't set the air gap with the clear plastic gauge that comes with the kit (Again, intermittent stalling or crank, no start). Otherwise all good.
HV I saw him set the air gap with the clear plastic. @ 2:11
Boneshaker yep me too
did you have to by pass ballister wire ?
Mark Bishoff that’s what I’d like to know!