One of the best and clearest instructional videos on car engine's electronic upgrade yet. Clear, step-by-step are the best help to anyone who still owns a classic car. Well done.
Well done video. Engaging no-nonsense presenter, very good camera work and editing... example; stopping the timing sequence so we could see the marks. When the video maker gives some careful consideration to how the information is presented it really does make it much more understandable. Thanks!
Please heed this advice. I only want to help....This video is in error. You must use a clean 12 volt power line to the module! Connecting it to the positive on the coil feeds it a reduced amount of voltage and that's why they don't last. It must receive 12 Solid Volts. The original FoMoCo wire coming into the + coil is a reduced voltage. The Pertronix instructions say that both the module and the coil should get full 12V. Not the reduced voltage the original Ford wire suplies the coil when the key is in Run position. That is why so many comment that theirs failed.
@V_ AP Bad installation can certainly cause it to fail, and many last a very long time with happy owners. But if you're a tech or engineer and examine the electronics with an oscilloscope you will see the triggering all over the place. Pertronix systems are always down on dyno power because of spark scatter. And the retrofit version with embedded magnets in the ring is especially bad with even worse timing variation on each cylinder because the magnet position in the epoxy varies, plus huge magnet ring warpage means the gap varies. The GM version is usually warped .060" or more right out of the box. This has nothing to do with halfwits installing wrong, and just because they run and your "butt dyno" can't detect problems doesn't mean they run right. Add a little heat and you can watch things get even worse. The design and manufacturing is poor. A high failure rate is just one way they are junk. And, while I agree that that halfwits can screw up the installation, the fact they can do it so easily is even more evidence of a bad design. The failure rate among the other brand conversions (Mallory, Crane, FAST, etc) is far, far lower because their design and manufacturing is far, far better.
I did this to my '70 f250 with a 390FE. It's been running reliably for 3 years and starts way easier. I think the only time this system has failed is due to operator error at install. Definitely no complaints here.
Pertronix now offers a relay kit to solve the Ford "pink wire" problem. Or you can get your own but make sure the relay coil has a diode across + & - with a 30 amp contact rating.
Very cool. Very concise and well-shot. Thank you very much. (My buddy found a mid 70s V8 Dodge pickup on a compound he just bought. (A D100?) She looks to be in very good shape, and I was just wondering how to replace the old points on it. I mean, who has a matchbook on them these days?) Stellar work and thanks again.
Did he put the vacuum hose back on that he blocked off ? Must have just didn’t see it after set timing But Very good learn video. On a nice classic as well.
I put an HEI distributor for 50 bucks off e-bay on my '79 Merc Marquis. Could not fix the original electronics. Works great and combines the coil and spark module in one unit. *Here's a crimping trick. Line up where you need to put the crimp on the terminal or butt splice with the tool then leave it in the tool. Bring the wire to the tool and then crimp it.
I have a 68 Olds I'd like to do this to. Did your ignition coil have a ignition capacitor on it? I didn't see one. Just wanted to make sure that stays or not when converting over.
Friend, is your engine a 302 and the carburetor is 600 cfm??? I have a 302 with an identical 600 cfm carburetor 80457-3. What size primary jets does your carburetor have?
I have a question I have a 68 chevelle I’m putting a mopar 440 in how can I do away with the ballast resistor? And if I can’t how would I go about adding one ?
So doing this upgrade wont affect the resistor wire that is installed into the ignition system from the factory? That also looks like the original coil intended for resistor wire or ballast resistor!
And put those breaker points, condenser, and wires in a plastic bag and place it in your glovebox. That way when the A-bomb drops you can put them back on and drive off into a radioactive future full of zombies.
Doesn't show what nut loosens the distributor so he can turn it to adjust the timing. nor does it show which way he turned the distributor. Even the timing marks are all but invisible on this video. I'm glad he mentions the squared-off interior surface of the black magnet that fits over the distributor shaft. The 'lobes' on the inside surface of the magnet are definitely not obvious, and there's no mention of aligning them in the pertronix instructions.
SatchmoSings I'm not entirely sure what your saying about old car motors not lasting as long as new car motors. Perhaps in many cases but my Dart's 225 slant six is on a points and condenser distributor (I'll be upgrading to electronic ignition shortly) and its 40 years old. Its odometer has rolled over twice now, at least 600,000 miles on the car and she's still running like a champ :P Never had an engine overhaul either, though I probably should haha.
I installed a Pertronix igniter in my ‘68 Cougar 25 years ago & it’s been flawless. By the way, get rid of that deadly fuel filter. Those are notorious for leaking fuel & potentially causing a fire.
I'd replace the coil to get the most out of the kit but if the cap is fine, there's no reason to replace it. Like he said, if they look a little corroted, sand them.
I installed one on my 71/302, 3 years ago. Better performance, gas mileage and way, way easier to maintain. Every once in a while, I run into purists that think you diminish the value of your muscle car by removing the points and condenser. Sure, whatever. 🙄 I recommend it to anyone with a classic. And anyway, as others have pointed out, Keep the old points and condenser and put them away someplace handy. You can always put them back on for car shows or when you get ready to sell.
I was considering this with my 1965 Mustang. Im getting real sick of my points burning seemingly prematurely (probably some underlying electrical problem causing it tho). I believe my points burning is causing the recurring stutter issues with the engine (usually happens after it gets to operating temperature). And now its doing it to me for the third time in about 5 years. I swear the old points system is as weak as the ignition system in a Mazda RX8.
I know the video is old, but did you remove the ballast resistor and the ballast resistor wire at the ignition? If you didn't bypass this , then you're only getting 6v at the coil. Pertronix needs 12v to operate correctly.
I've seen guys do this, and I've also seen you guys the said you eliminate it some systems you keep it. I learned how to hook up the duraspark to ignition to all my old Ford. The small blocks the Cleveland all the 460 it's the easiest thing you'll ever set up and you'll never look back parts are on the Shelf ready to go. I am 40 Years of using the system I've come across one bad module and that's it
5point9, Fords don't use a ballast resistor. Power to the coil is 9 volts and resistor is in the ignition switch. Pertronix, and Mallory, systems for Fords is 9 volts.
That wont last long you want to run it to a key on 12v source youre coil positive with key on is at around 6v it will burn out the system sooner than later.
Help i put on of these on a 72 pontiac lemans and when i went to crank it over the hot wire leading into the distributor started to smoke and got hot what did i do wrong
I just tried converting my 69 Lincoln mark III to this 1281 pertronix system. The magnetic ring fits very loose on the shaft and just spins freely. It will not press down any further. I assume it’s supposed to fit much tighter? Could it just be a defective part?
A superb video but I have some questions. My main motivation to changing to electronic ignition is that, at least on very modern cars, ignition is truly precise; with points, it's close but not perfect; this is precisely why modern cars engines last so much longer. While I do understand the advantage to getting rid of points, does the system you installed fire the spark with the same precision as a truly modern car does and remember, you don't have all the other computers with this old Mustang
Well but that's my point the breaker played on the Ford distributor is good for about ten thousand miles if it's brand new. So if you're using a used or original breaker plate the system you just bought it in there go to be flipping and flopping all over the place.
You're better getting a good electronic ignition distributor and then use the module the electronic part to the coil aftermarket MSD or something. And stay away from carbon spark plug wires used the good ones you'll see a little circular coil type picture on the side of them those are the good ones.
Only question I have of this video of upgrading the electronics of the Mustang is what other wire did the mechanic cut, crimp an attachment to and screw to the coil? That part was not entirely clear? Anyone know?
The petrronix electronic ignition I put in requires a full 12 volts all the time. My 66 thunderbird had the resistor wire that provided 12v at startup and then kicks it down to go easy on the points. That's great for points but no the EI. They work for a while and then fail. Well I burned up 3 units .
I have this on my 71 Dodge, and it works great! But for some reason, left my key in the on position and ran the battery completely dead. Can any harm come to my magnetic pickup or ignition coil?
How can I modify an electronic ignition system (Rav V) to avoid those outrageous key replacement charges? Until about 2010 you could make copies at places like Wal Mart but no more. Outrageous? $300 from the manufacturer and and up to $1000 from National car rental and most others. Reportedly you can't modify an electronic system if it affects mileage (environment) and safety. If you can convert to an exiting electronic then it must be possible to convert from one. Any help? Mike
Likely should have made timing adjustments after the engine had reached full op temp. It's not as easy on a Delco dizzy. But still an easy, great upgrade overall.
I just purchased a 69 fastback hasn’t been driven for a while .. I just installed the petronix igniter . Wires, spark plugs, solenoid. Th car cranks and starts when I turn the key .. but as soon as I let go of the key it just dies! What could be the issue?
hi, I just replace Module and Coil for my Opel Kadett 1.4 engine, 1993 model, but now it overflow petrol, it does not pick up speed on acceleration, please help guys.
Thanks for the video! QUESTION: Could you recommend a upgraded distributor for my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6? I am going from a prestolite ignition to a GM TBI with fuel injection and a ecm.. Hope to allow the ecm to control spark/timing... :) Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
Forgot to connect the ground wire with the mouting screw (Could cause a module failure or intermittent stalling), Didn't set the air gap with the clear plastic gauge that comes with the kit (Again, intermittent stalling or crank, no start). Otherwise all good.
nice vid :) simple, good video and clear focus/lighting. make sure on auto cars the engines warmed up - chokes usually engage fast idle which can throw u off.. it must be idling @ normal temps when setting initial timing.
I happen to think this is an unnecessary waste of money. Having to replace a set of points every 10-15000 miles is nothing. I’ve owned a lot of cars with points and I have NEVER had to “reset” my points every 3-4000 miles. If that Chinese module fails in the middle of nowhere you’ll have a hell of a time finding a replacement. To me, anyway this isn’t an “ upgrade”.
Do you really need the gun? Im not too familiar with distributors, but the gun just creates a strobe affect everytime the #1 Spark plug fires, correct?
One of the best and clearest instructional videos on car engine's electronic upgrade yet. Clear, step-by-step are the best help to anyone who still owns a classic car. Well done.
This is one of the most comprehensive DIY videos I ever came across. Great work guys!
Well done video. Engaging no-nonsense presenter, very good camera work and editing... example; stopping the timing sequence so we could see the marks. When the video maker gives some careful consideration to how the information is presented it really does make it much more understandable. Thanks!
Please heed this advice. I only want to help....This video is in error. You must use a clean 12 volt power line to the module! Connecting it to the positive on the coil feeds it a reduced amount of voltage and that's why they don't last. It must receive 12 Solid Volts. The original FoMoCo wire coming into the + coil is a reduced voltage. The Pertronix instructions say that both the module and the coil should get full 12V. Not the reduced voltage the original Ford wire suplies the coil when the key is in Run position. That is why so many comment that theirs failed.
Don't forget to mention to take the old points and condenser and put them in your trunk in case that module goes bad and leaves you stranded.
Yep like mine did yesterday. Pertronix was easy to install but hasn't lasted very long. In my opinion waste of money for mine.
Jason Harville : I got 10,000 miles on my petronix kit before it stopped working. What a waste of money.
Pertronix = total junk
@V_ AP Bad installation can certainly cause it to fail, and many last a very long time with happy owners. But if you're a tech or engineer and examine the electronics with an oscilloscope you will see the triggering all over the place. Pertronix systems are always down on dyno power because of spark scatter. And the retrofit version with embedded magnets in the ring is especially bad with even worse timing variation on each cylinder because the magnet position in the epoxy varies, plus huge magnet ring warpage means the gap varies. The GM version is usually warped .060" or more right out of the box. This has nothing to do with halfwits installing wrong, and just because they run and your "butt dyno" can't detect problems doesn't mean they run right. Add a little heat and you can watch things get even worse. The design and manufacturing is poor. A high failure rate is just one way they are junk. And, while I agree that that halfwits can screw up the installation, the fact they can do it so easily is even more evidence of a bad design. The failure rate among the other brand conversions (Mallory, Crane, FAST, etc) is far, far lower because their design and manufacturing is far, far better.
@@ODucks55 8
I added Pertronix about 5 years ago to my '68 w/ a 302 and never looked back. Best bang for the buck!
You uploaded this video and it’s still helping people! I’ll be doing this tomorrow to my ‘65 Galaxie
You did make that look easy . Thanks for posting your work on that beautiful car.
Changed my 66 Mustang 289 to the same one, has worked well for years!
Put this ignition in my 68 mustang 5 years ago, haven't had to touch it since ! 😁👍🏻
I did this to my '70 f250 with a 390FE. It's been running reliably for 3 years and starts way easier. I think the only time this system has failed is due to operator error at install. Definitely no complaints here.
Pertronix now offers a relay kit to solve the Ford "pink wire" problem. Or you can get your own but make sure the relay coil has a diode across + & - with a 30 amp contact rating.
I just went and got a new racing dizzy helps even more for power.
I'm thinking of installing a pertronix ignition on my 62 Ranchero. Thank you for a straight forward video and good camera work. Dude was cool as hell.
You can buy an HEI distributor from Speedway that drops right in and even eliminates the coil.
It's a GM based distributer and takes up too much space. Not good if wanting to keep the vehicle as close to stock as possible either.
I'm no mechanic but this is a hobby I could get into. I've got a 79 dodge b300 tradesman maxivan with a 360ci 4bbl 625cfm carb. Love it.
Your '79 Dodge b300 should already have electronic distributer. Chrysler began using electronic ignition in fall of 1971.
Very cool. Very concise and well-shot. Thank you very much. (My buddy found a mid 70s V8 Dodge pickup on a compound he just bought. (A D100?) She looks to be in very good shape, and I was just wondering how to replace the old points on it. I mean, who has a matchbook on them these days?) Stellar work and thanks again.
I love classic cars just got me a 65 GTO
Did he put the vacuum hose back on that he blocked off ? Must have just didn’t see it after set timing But Very good learn video. On a nice classic as well.
I put an HEI distributor for 50 bucks off e-bay on my '79 Merc Marquis. Could not fix the original electronics. Works great and combines the coil and spark module in one unit. *Here's a crimping trick. Line up where you need to put the crimp on the terminal or butt splice with the tool then leave it in the tool. Bring the wire to the tool and then crimp it.
Is that a orginal thunderbolt hood on the wall in the background????? I'm in need of one if so!!!!
What is the brand of the conversion kit.? Howmuch does it cost?
Mines lasted 28 years. Never had a issue with them. A lot of people screw up the wiring on them. Thunderhead289 has a great video explaining this.
I have a 68 Olds I'd like to do this to. Did your ignition coil have a ignition capacitor on it? I didn't see one. Just wanted to make sure that stays or not when converting over.
Friend, is your engine a 302 and the carburetor is 600 cfm??? I have a 302 with an identical 600 cfm carburetor 80457-3. What size primary jets does your carburetor have?
My 289 hp has a dual point distributor. Would this work for it? Thank you for video.
Beautiful classic - and a great vid!
I have a question I have a 68 chevelle I’m putting a mopar 440 in how can I do away with the ballast resistor? And if I can’t how would I go about adding one ?
Great video well done I have 65 mustang with 6 cyl do they make one for it
So doing this upgrade wont affect the resistor wire that is installed into the ignition system from the factory? That also looks like the original coil intended for resistor wire or ballast resistor!
And put those breaker points, condenser, and wires in a plastic bag and place it in your glovebox. That way when the A-bomb drops you can put them back on and drive off into a radioactive future full of zombies.
Yes you can see the vac Line is back in place at 7:59 as he puts the air cleaner on.
Doesn't show what nut loosens the distributor so he can turn it to adjust the timing. nor does it show which way he turned the distributor. Even the timing marks are all but invisible on this video.
I'm glad he mentions the squared-off interior surface of the black magnet that fits over the distributor shaft. The 'lobes' on the inside surface of the magnet are definitely not obvious, and there's no mention of aligning them in the pertronix instructions.
SatchmoSings I'm not entirely sure what your saying about old car motors not lasting as long as new car motors. Perhaps in many cases but my Dart's 225 slant six is on a points and condenser distributor (I'll be upgrading to electronic ignition shortly) and its 40 years old. Its odometer has rolled over twice now, at least 600,000 miles on the car and she's still running like a champ :P Never had an engine overhaul either, though I probably should haha.
I installed a Pertronix igniter in my ‘68 Cougar 25 years ago & it’s been flawless.
By the way, get rid of that deadly fuel filter. Those are notorious for leaking fuel & potentially causing a fire.
That cam on the distributor shaft better have 8 lobes on it instead of 6. I'm sure that was a V8 you were working on.
I'd replace the coil to get the most out of the kit but if the cap is fine, there's no reason to replace it. Like he said, if they look a little corroted, sand them.
Do/did you just use the stock plugs, and gap them a little wider?
I installed one on my 71/302, 3 years ago. Better performance, gas mileage and way, way easier to maintain. Every once in a while, I run into purists that think you diminish the value of your muscle car by removing the points and condenser. Sure, whatever. 🙄 I recommend it to anyone with a classic. And anyway, as others have pointed out, Keep the old points and condenser and put them away someplace handy. You can always put them back on for car shows or when you get ready to sell.
I was considering this with my 1965 Mustang. Im getting real sick of my points burning seemingly prematurely (probably some underlying electrical problem causing it tho). I believe my points burning is causing the recurring stutter issues with the engine (usually happens after it gets to operating temperature). And now its doing it to me for the third time in about 5 years.
I swear the old points system is as weak as the ignition system in a Mazda RX8.
I know the video is old, but did you remove the ballast resistor and the ballast resistor wire at the ignition? If you didn't bypass this , then you're only getting 6v at the coil. Pertronix needs 12v to operate correctly.
1970 HB you’re absolutely right. I have a 71 f250 with a 360ci and I’m gonna install this. Just trying to figure out how to bypass the resistor wire.
I've seen guys do this, and I've also seen you guys the said you eliminate it some systems you keep it. I learned how to hook up the duraspark to ignition to all my old Ford. The small blocks the Cleveland all the 460 it's the easiest thing you'll ever set up and you'll never look back parts are on the Shelf ready to go. I am 40 Years of using the system I've come across one bad module and that's it
5point9, Fords don't use a ballast resistor. Power to the coil is 9 volts and resistor is in the ignition switch. Pertronix, and Mallory, systems for Fords is 9 volts.
That wont last long you want to run it to a key on 12v source youre coil positive with key on is at around 6v it will burn out the system sooner than later.
Help i put on of these on a 72 pontiac lemans and when i went to crank it over the hot wire leading into the distributor started to smoke and got hot what did i do wrong
I just tried converting my 69 Lincoln mark III to this 1281 pertronix system. The magnetic ring fits very loose on the shaft and just spins freely. It will not press down any further. I assume it’s supposed to fit much tighter? Could it just be a defective part?
A superb video but I have some questions.
My main motivation to changing to electronic ignition is that, at least on very modern cars, ignition is truly precise; with points, it's close but not perfect; this is precisely why modern cars engines last so much longer.
While I do understand the advantage to getting rid of points, does the system you installed fire the spark with the same precision as a truly modern car does and remember, you don't have all the other computers with this old Mustang
Does it make a difference if it’s a 6 volt system? Or do they even have them for a 6 volt truck.
nice explanation for a DIY like me.
Can I put this in my 352 big block
Well but that's my point the breaker played on the Ford distributor is good for about ten thousand miles if it's brand new. So if you're using a used or original breaker plate the system you just bought it in there go to be flipping and flopping all over the place.
Does the magnet that sets on lobe have to be indexed.. Or is there a magnet per cylinder like the lobes
Im switching from crane cams to petronix wanted to know if the built in rev limiter matters at all
How can it be a six lobe cam.. its an 8cyl.
He is talking about the lil cam on the distributor the lil black magnetic sleeve goes onto
I have a 73 thunderbird 460. Was wondering which pertronix model would be best for my car? Or does this system work on all older ford v8s?
All it needs some adjustments and it will run fine
You're better getting a good electronic ignition distributor and then use the module the electronic part to the coil aftermarket MSD or something. And stay away from carbon spark plug wires used the good ones you'll see a little circular coil type picture on the side of them those are the good ones.
which do you recommend for a dodge 225 slant six, 1982
did you have to by pass ballister wire ?
Mark Bishoff that’s what I’d like to know!
Excellent video thanks for posting
Only question I have of this video of upgrading the electronics of the Mustang is what other wire did the mechanic cut, crimp an
attachment to and screw to the coil? That part was not entirely clear? Anyone know?
That red wire goes back thru the firewall and to the ignition switch
thankss.....what did it cost.?...bob
What about having to bypass the ignition resistor wire?
The petrronix electronic ignition I put in requires a full 12 volts all the time. My 66 thunderbird had the resistor wire that provided 12v at startup and then kicks it down to go easy on the points. That's great for points but no the EI. They work for a while and then fail. Well I burned up 3 units .
@@markthomason2754 Thanks.
I have this on my 71 Dodge, and it works great! But for some reason, left my key in the on position and ran the battery completely dead. Can any harm come to my magnetic pickup or ignition coil?
Good informative video - thanks!
so if your using the stock low resistor wire how many volts will you get? Does anybody have the answer? 6500 on 74 camaro stock hei.
my question is does the manufacturer of the distributer also sell just the cap and rotor for tune ups?
To the point! Thank you
Love that Cicadas sounds!!
How can I modify an electronic ignition system (Rav V) to avoid those outrageous key replacement charges? Until about 2010 you could make copies at places like Wal Mart but no more. Outrageous? $300 from the manufacturer and and up to $1000 from National car rental and most others. Reportedly you can't modify an electronic system if it affects mileage (environment) and safety. If you can convert to an exiting electronic then it must be possible to convert from one. Any help? Mike
Next video, do it on the '69 cat in the background!
Can i still hook up my msd 6a box to thos system? Helpp
What should the plug gap set at after this install
Likely should have made timing adjustments after the engine had reached full op temp.
It's not as easy on a Delco dizzy. But still an easy, great upgrade overall.
Exactly what I was going to say.
would you recommend this on a 302 1990 town car? does it increase fuel economy?
1990 Town car already has electronic ignition. Ford began electronic ignition in 1974.
Thanks. Video is very well done!
Would points resist damage from an EMP blast?
Yes.. As a matter of fact it would! Proves that any 1900 to early 70s vehicle will be the only working transportation after an EMP pulse.
I did this to my 63 Pontiac and haven’t changed points in 15 years.
I just purchased a 69 fastback hasn’t been driven for a while .. I just installed the petronix igniter . Wires, spark plugs, solenoid. Th car cranks and starts when I turn the key .. but as soon as I let go of the key it just dies! What could be the issue?
Sounds like there is no voltage to the coil when it is in the run position.
How do you decide on wires?
Will that work on a 1973 or 1974 Chevelle Malibu SUPER SPORT or Type S-3 Laguna with the 5.0 litre or the 5.7 litre 350 Turbofire.
Just put a HEI system out of about a 1975 Chevy. They work quite well swap the whole distributor.
Coil and module are all self contained.
Good video. Thanks for doing it.
Should this be done in high idle or normal idle?
idle is spec timing, then the distributor may have a 5degree advance @3500rpm for example. -General information only.
Do you not need to set timing and have it set to tdc before installing? Or does plugging the vacuum make that not a thing?
That was my thought also.
hi, I just replace Module and Coil for my Opel Kadett 1.4 engine, 1993 model, but now it overflow petrol, it does not pick up speed on acceleration, please help guys.
Will this fit on a classic 1991 mini?
Hi, great vid, I´ve got an 81 ford fairmont V8, Can it be upgraded to electronic ignition?
Guillermo Hiram Duarte Gómez not sure about that one. I would suggest asking the local parts store if they have a kit available.
+Guillermo Hiram Duarte Gómez Look into getting an MSD dizzy or a Mallory ignition if youre not planing on modifying it too much.
Peshmerga 1/508 thank you very much. I appreciate your suggestions
Good job, explained well.
Thanks for the video!
QUESTION: Could you recommend a upgraded distributor for my 1976 cj7 jeep with 258 I6? I am going from a prestolite ignition to a GM TBI with fuel injection and a ecm.. Hope to allow the ecm to control spark/timing... :)
Oh, by the way... I believe my cam shaft is soft iron, do you sell the dizzys specifically for the set up I'm trying to attain?
*****
Thanks for the suggestions... :)
I will keep them all in mind...
Forgot to connect the ground wire with the mouting screw (Could cause a module failure or intermittent stalling), Didn't set the air gap with the clear plastic gauge that comes with the kit (Again, intermittent stalling or crank, no start). Otherwise all good.
HV I saw him set the air gap with the clear plastic. @ 2:11
Boneshaker yep me too
nice vid :) simple, good video and clear focus/lighting. make sure on auto cars the engines warmed up - chokes usually engage fast idle which can throw u off.. it must be idling @ normal temps when setting initial timing.
Where can I buy the kit from
hi, does it fits to toyota 2r engines..thankls
Thanks, I get this now.
Well done, you made it look so easy. Great looking car too! (Can't understand the negative 'thumbs down' though).
Is that a Boss 302
Now if I can just find a Mustang that clean!!
I happen to think this is an unnecessary waste of money. Having to replace a set of points every 10-15000 miles is nothing. I’ve owned a lot of cars with points and I have NEVER had to “reset” my points every 3-4000 miles. If that Chinese module fails in the middle of nowhere you’ll have a hell of a time finding a replacement. To me, anyway this isn’t an “ upgrade”.
Just buy extras when you order the first one. And there’s other reasons to go with an electronic ignition over point. One is reviving huff
id do that to an old car points ignition is outdated electronic ignition probably took off in the 80's then it became coil packs
You forgot to put the ground back on.
Do you really need the gun? Im not too familiar with distributors, but the gun just creates a strobe affect everytime the #1 Spark plug fires, correct?
"The instructions are real easy". You forgot the ground wire at 1:14. At 2:34 it is there 😅
nice car, awesome instructor!
289,302 or 351w