Great video..some don't understand why some jobs cost so much at the shop especially with older vehicles. Hoses, bolts, plastic retainers etc break. Great video thanks for sharing
No matter how experienced with a power tool we like to think we are, USE HAND TOOLS ON THIS JOB!!! Cleaning the VCs/area before removing them avoids crap falling into head. Good job on video!
Just noticed my right side valve cover leaking when doing my most recent oil change... right onto the exhaust manifold of my 2000 Tundra. 205k miles on it and it still purrs like a new engine. So I'll be hitting it soon. Thanks for the video.
@@derekmcguckin2114 Thank you, that's what I've been seeing here. Bought it as a project, and want to learn more about automotive in general (I work in tech) Starting with a fluid change throughout, and will start knocking off the maintain items one by one. Any other suggestions to watch out for?
Depending how many miles it has, definitely want to do timing belt/water pump every 100k. I’ve broken off more bolt heads than I can count, so definitely make sure you have a torch handy, some penetrating fluid (I like pb blaster) and maybe a thread insert kit which hopefully you won’t need.
@@derekmcguckin2114 Bought it with 270k, overpaid a bit, but it's a 4x4, so by that logic, I should perhaps do the water pump and timing belt when I do this. Thanks, I'll pick the fluid, and torch up as well. How about the radiator? Will there be tell tell signs as to when it needs changed out? Not cooling as well?
Well, mine has 302k, and it’s on the original radiator. I’m sure you can pull off using original, just be cautious when removing the coolant hoses and transmission cooler lines as you could break the stems off the radiator. I opted to not risk snapping them off, so I cut the lines off and just replaced the hoses. Cooling for me seems just fine
I have a small leak and I’m not sure where it’s from, mostly seen on the back of the oil pan. I’m going to do oil pan gasket on my next oil change and if that doesn’t fix it I’ll do this.
The valve cover gaskets typically leak towards the back. I would check to see if you have any oil leaking from back there. Also check where the dipstick separates halfway down. Hope you can figure out where the leak is coming from!
Wish I could have provided a little more information for you! If you’re not able to find a good video for the VVTI version, you may want to consider purchasing the workshop manual for your vehicle
do you live in snow country with lots of salt? I was surprised the bolts were seized and broke. I am not in snow country and my bolts are all actually loose. I snugged them temporarily but will be replacing the gaskets in a couple months. Both my 2000 Tundra and 2001 sequoia were loose.
I’m so sorry I missed your comment! I haven’t worked in the VVTI version of this engine, but I have the workshop manual for it. Were you able to figure it out?
Yep, I do have a timing belt video! Toyota recommends every 100k for the timing belt/water pump. My sequoia has 302k, and I put the third timing belt on it around 299k. I did the valve cover gaskets at the same time because I had a lot of the components out of the way and made the job easier.
@@derekmcguckin2114 about time to change my valve cover gaskets. Considering doing the timing belt as well. Likewise for the water pump. I’ll be on the lookout if you’ve a vid on that as well as the timing belt. Any other part replacement recommendations to go along with?
I’d say really just the water pump, timing belt and the timing belt pulleys (usually all comes as a kit) as preventative maintenance. Really just depends on the condition of your car. I’d recommend the Aisin kit from rockauto as that is the brand that made the original OEM parts and is pretty well made. Definitely change the belt tensioner as well (should come with the kit). From there, I tend to just fix things as they break. (Shocks, steering rack, etc...)
Maybe spray them with PB blaster over the span of several days and maybe heating them up with the torch right from the beginning. 20 year old vehicle is bound to have some broken bolts at some point unfortunately.
@@derekmcguckin2114 I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the quick response. For that, you def deserve a sub. You making quality useful vids comes as a bonus. Should get yourself a phone holder or tripod of sorts.
Unfortunately, I had to drill them out and use a bolt extractor. Some places can be a little tight, so I had to use a 90 degree tool on the end of my drill. Sorry to hear about the bolts, hopefully you were able to come up with a solution!
My impact driver model number is DCF887. It’s more suited for use with screws, but you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch socket adapters (dw2541ir, dw2542ir, and dw2547ir respectively). I got all three adapters as a kit on Amazon for around 12$.
You’re breaking bolts because you’re using a power tool. You should always try it by hand first. Those bolts are so old hitting them with an impact wrench is too powerful and causing you unnecessary work. Just my two cents.
Great video..some don't understand why some jobs cost so much at the shop especially with older vehicles. Hoses, bolts, plastic retainers etc break. Great video thanks for sharing
Exactly! Can save a lot of money doing it yourself as long as you’re not afraid to get a little dirty!
No matter how experienced with a power tool we like to think we are, USE HAND TOOLS ON THIS JOB!!!
Cleaning the VCs/area before removing them avoids crap falling into head.
Good job on video!
You’re right, if I could go back, I’d use hand tools. Thanks for the comment!
Just noticed my right side valve cover leaking when doing my most recent oil change... right onto the exhaust manifold of my 2000 Tundra. 205k miles on it and it still purrs like a new engine. So I'll be hitting it soon. Thanks for the video.
Smart move to change the seal! Hopefully the video is helpful!
Very nicely done and great editing and narration of video, total pro on all counts, thank you!
I thought it was going to be worse. Thanks for the video and your time
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, Just bought a 02 Tundra and look to tackle this job soon.
Congrats on the truck, pretty reliable drivetrain
@@derekmcguckin2114 Thank you, that's what I've been seeing here. Bought it as a project, and want to learn more about automotive in general (I work in tech) Starting with a fluid change throughout, and will start knocking off the maintain items one by one. Any other suggestions to watch out for?
Depending how many miles it has, definitely want to do timing belt/water pump every 100k. I’ve broken off more bolt heads than I can count, so definitely make sure you have a torch handy, some penetrating fluid (I like pb blaster) and maybe a thread insert kit which hopefully you won’t need.
@@derekmcguckin2114 Bought it with 270k, overpaid a bit, but it's a 4x4, so by that logic, I should perhaps do the water pump and timing belt when I do this. Thanks, I'll pick the fluid, and torch up as well. How about the radiator? Will there be tell tell signs as to when it needs changed out? Not cooling as well?
Well, mine has 302k, and it’s on the original radiator. I’m sure you can pull off using original, just be cautious when removing the coolant hoses and transmission cooler lines as you could break the stems off the radiator. I opted to not risk snapping them off, so I cut the lines off and just replaced the hoses. Cooling for me seems just fine
Nice and thorough. Thank you brother. Would you say it is important to go in a cross cross pattern when tightening the valve cover bolts also?
Definitely. I usually start in the middle and work my way out.
I have a small leak and I’m not sure where it’s from, mostly seen on the back of the oil pan. I’m going to do oil pan gasket on my next oil change and if that doesn’t fix it I’ll do this.
The valve cover gaskets typically leak towards the back. I would check to see if you have any oil leaking from back there. Also check where the dipstick separates halfway down. Hope you can figure out where the leak is coming from!
🔥🔥🔥
Were u able to get it click when u torque it down? I cant get my to click.
Great video. Wish you had a vvti model so you could have done the cam seals. I’m still not confident with the videos that are out there.
Wish I could have provided a little more information for you! If you’re not able to find a good video for the VVTI version, you may want to consider purchasing the workshop manual for your vehicle
@@derekmcguckin2114 Thank you. Just found someone selling all three volumes on eBay for $300.
Nice, I wish you the best of luck getting it done!
@@TheBillyBlack Did you find (or make) a video for the VVTI V8 engine?
@@mikeligas5561 no. The leak that I have comes and goes so I don’t have the motivation yet.
do you live in snow country with lots of salt? I was surprised the bolts were seized and broke. I am not in snow country and my bolts are all actually loose. I snugged them temporarily but will be replacing the gaskets in a couple months. Both my 2000 Tundra and 2001 sequoia were loose.
Yeah, first 13 years in New Jersey and then 4 years in Colorado. It’s seen some salty winters.
Don't use an impact.
Victor reinz set?
Where did you get the thread insert? And do you kno the size?
Where did you get the replacement bolts?
I usually just get replacement hardware from Ace hardware, but if I can’t find them there, I’ll usually bite the bullet and go to the dealership.
I have an 03 Seqouia, 350k on it. There's no sign of leakage, should I change the covers? There's a good chance they're original 😂
If it’s not leaking oil there’s no reason to replace it.
I was wondering where is the VVTi solenoid? I thought it was under the valve cover? But I didn’t see it? Please advise.
I’m so sorry I missed your comment! I haven’t worked in the VVTI version of this engine, but I have the workshop manual for it. Were you able to figure it out?
@@derekmcguckin2114 sure did. Doesn't not have one! 1st gen version. 4.7L I force but does not have vvt. Thanks for replying.
Is the gasket sealer necessary?
For the corners and the little half moon plugs, yes. Will leak for sure without it.
Thanks for the awesome job, did you actually did a timing belts video? and when do you think the timing belt should be changed?
Yep, I do have a timing belt video! Toyota recommends every 100k for the timing belt/water pump. My sequoia has 302k, and I put the third timing belt on it around 299k. I did the valve cover gaskets at the same time because I had a lot of the components out of the way and made the job easier.
@@derekmcguckin2114 about time to change my valve cover gaskets. Considering doing the timing belt as well. Likewise for the water pump. I’ll be on the lookout if you’ve a vid on that as well as the timing belt. Any other part replacement recommendations to go along with?
I’d say really just the water pump, timing belt and the timing belt pulleys (usually all comes as a kit) as preventative maintenance. Really just depends on the condition of your car. I’d recommend the Aisin kit from rockauto as that is the brand that made the original OEM parts and is pretty well made. Definitely change the belt tensioner as well (should come with the kit).
From there, I tend to just fix things as they break. (Shocks, steering rack, etc...)
Is there anything you think you could’ve done differently to prevent the issues with the bolts?
Maybe spray them with PB blaster over the span of several days and maybe heating them up with the torch right from the beginning. 20 year old vehicle is bound to have some broken bolts at some point unfortunately.
@@derekmcguckin2114 I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the quick response. For that, you def deserve a sub. You making quality useful vids comes as a bonus.
Should get yourself a phone holder or tripod of sorts.
Not using an impact would be a start.
Pretty easy looking job. Dealer wanted $567 to change them lol.
Oof, yeah it’s not that bad of a job. Can definitely do it yourself for a fraction of the cost!
Am doing this right now and just broke all 4 of the lower bolts off, how did you end up getting it out
Unfortunately, I had to drill them out and use a bolt extractor. Some places can be a little tight, so I had to use a 90 degree tool on the end of my drill. Sorry to hear about the bolts, hopefully you were able to come up with a solution!
What model dewalt impact u using in the video? Thx
My impact driver model number is DCF887. It’s more suited for use with screws, but you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch socket adapters (dw2541ir, dw2542ir, and dw2547ir respectively). I got all three adapters as a kit on Amazon for around 12$.
Don't use an impact tool for this repair.
Good video, but you need to stop using an impact to remove bolts. Save yourself the trouble and do it right.
Everyone's a master mechanic lol. Thanks for the advice Obi Wan
Just broke my bolt in the same location! Smh
Hate to see it! Hopefully it didn’t cause you too much trouble!
You’re breaking bolts because you’re using a power tool. You should always try it by hand first. Those bolts are so old hitting them with an impact wrench is too powerful and causing you unnecessary work. Just my two cents.
you put the spark plug seals in the wrong way
Pretty sure they’re the right direction. I put them in based on how I took the old ones out. Put 60k miles in since then without any problems