Overhauling a BMW E32 735iL's Many Neglected and Leaky Components
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- In today's episode of classic BMW rejuvenation we pull the mighty 1991 735iL E32 into the garage for some much needed repair work. After putting some miles on it I've learned this car is a bit of a nightmare in backlogged maintenance. So today we tackle much of that! Brand new upper control arms, power steering pump rebuild, and a cap, rotor, and valve adjustment for the old M30B35 in attempts to fix some leaks and get this thing driving a whole lot better!
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It's worth mentioning that BMW revised the M10 M30 banjo bolts - the new ones have a circle machined into the top surface. They have a slightly different thread pitch so they are tighter to wind in and they have dry threadlocker applied. Nip them to 12 nm and they shouldn't come loose again. I use them on mine. The oil spray bar only fits one way and there is a kind of 'V' arrow on one end of it that must be at the front pointing towards the chain. I've seen M30's were this has been fitted the wrong way. It lubricates six cam lobes and the other 6 run dry. Expensive!
Thank you for this! Noted!
Speaking about valve adjustment - I did my valves on my M20 E34 a few years ago, because they were super loud. You could easily hear them in the 2k RPM range inside the interior. The engine was rebuilt and stroked to 2.8 in 2017, then sat for 6 months without use in 2018 while the body was undergoing a huge restoration. After I got my car back and started driving it again I really noticed how loud the valves had become and only did something about it in like 2021.
After the adjustment, the engine was obviously much quieter, however the idle sorta became rough. The needle in the dash wasn't jumping around, but you could easily feel it through your butt that the engine was vibrating a little, as if there was a misfire or something. After that I went over the valves again and they were still in spec. Last year I took the car again to an old BMW specialist shop (the same repair shop who did the rebuild). Few issues were discovered like a bad fuel pump and a bad fuel pressure regulator which were replaced. I could feel that some horsepower had been restored after replacing those two things. I also did the spark plugs (BOSCH 0 242 229 779) and a new air filter just for the sake of it.
It still runs a little rough when idle, but no power loss or anything when driving it. I kinda gave up on it as I can't seem to find where the issue lies. It all began when the valves were first adjusted...
BTW, I have a video on my channel where you can see and hear my car running, don't know how much justice will the video do, but fuck it. And yes there was an exhaust leak by the manifold which was also taken care of.
Thats very interesting and Id honestly say that your issue is about exactly where this car is at! No rpm jumps but you can feel the engine is a little stuttery. Its been like this despite all my work. But also these valves were on the tighter side, im wondering if these old m30s actually prefer a looser valve clearance.
@@m3nameisjosh464 Exactly, done just about everything and it still feels a little off. Mine were adjusted to spec which is .25mm (.010") on both intake and exhaust side. I too have heard some argue that they should be different spec on each side, but I'd rather trust the owner's manual. Last thing I might try and see if it affects anything is to run 98 (US equivalent 93). Other than that just gotta send it and learn to live with it lmao
@@bmxismylife123 id definitely try the 98, these older engines like premium fuel. Back in the day gasoline was higher octane, no ethanol. I didn’t know this until older muscle car guys told me they like 93 and octane booster!
@@bmxismylife123 use 98. Really better. Some go 95 or full ethanol - with ou without mod - but 98 always better.
Nice. just did cap, rotor, plugs(autolight coppers), wires, valve cover gasket and breather tube, breather tube for the valve cover was almost fully plugged haha, on a 1990 e30. maybe I'll post a vid, its a beauty car. Already filmed some stuff just gotta slap it together.
Sweeet!!!
Another excellent video. Been binge watching alot of your videos recently and I have really enjoyed all of them. I' m picking up my first classic Bmw tommorrow a E34 525i Non vanos that needs a bit of TLC here and there but will make a good little project for me.
Awesome to hear man! I really appreciate that!! And good luck with the new e34!! You’ll love it!
I don't know if you fixed the power steering issue but my intermittent steering was fixed when I cleaned the filter screen in the servotronic control unit on the bottom of the steering gearbox. Pretty easy procedure.
You have to got to have the most comprehensive catalog of repair videos.
I dabble in many models 😏
@@m3nameisjosh464 love it bro. The tutorials get me amped before I go turn wrenches
@@viperocco thank you bro! Im happy they help!
très, très beau travail et merci pour les explications en vidéo
Don't kno how long u plan on keeping that car, but next time the control arm bushings go out, get u some powerflex bushings (BLK); them things don't last very long *(rubber).
*If Moosehead still makes parts, that's something worth looking into, if u plan to keep this car; they make a spherical bushing like the E38 has. **E38 control arms work as well, I believe, just more money obviously. The difference is one is sealed and the other one isn't.
Always a pleasure to see u getting these cars and working on them; my favorite generations of BMW as well!
This cars not worth moosehead sphericals lmaoo. But im familiar with that upgrade!
Recently replaced the lower control arms on my e34 which curred a 55mph shimmy but noticed bush play as you demonstrated in the uppers arms too so they're gonna get changed too. I went the Meyle route too. Great descriptions and explanations as usual. It's clear that you go to some lengths to be accurate and specific which really aids understanding, so thank you for that, it's appreciated dude. I'm having similar issues in terms of steering feel but zero leaks. Flushed the system a few times as the ps fluid was very dark/dirty and it's improved slightly but still feels heavy when parking. Maybe an issue with steering gearbox? Is your steering issue resolved? Can't wait for the drive video on this 735i. 👍😉
Glad it goes noticed man! Appreciate that! But I actually have found that my steering issues are coming from the gearbox itself, it seems to be a little tired.
I love your channel mate, continue the good work.
Thank you my friend!
josh i like that e28 when you doing that .anyway josh very good video fella
Thank you sir!
good job. keep it going
awesome e32 video.
Thanks man!
Today i was driving in my e34 and I found a mini quad on the side of the road. Pulled over to ask about the quad and there was a green 735 across the street...
What are the chances😏
@@m3nameisjosh464 when I came back to pick up the atv, the owners of the 735 just happened to come home. Car overheats and has been sitting for a whiiiiile. What's the market on one of these big old paperweights?
Very nice
What’s p/n for banjo bolt crush washer?
Incredible. These videos are so helpful. What do you think of a high mileage 1999 M3? I just got one with 300k miles.... running and driving in very good shape
Thanks man! But they are good cars, if taken care of it should last a lot longer!!
anyone knows where to buy parts for 1986 atg bmw m7 (modified from e23)?
cam top lobe is worn (making tick, tick noises) maybe cheaper by getting to top half of the engine.
I've owned a e32 1990 735IL since 2002. I finally repaired/replaced power steering hoses & pump. Benn leaking for 20 yrs. Price of hydraulic. Oil went up 50% so I decided to overhaul system after whining vibrating noise started. I've replaced old distributor with corrosion on the copper leads from probably excessive humidity in July & August in Middle GA. I've replaced hydraulic self-leveling shocks with ones from wrecked of 1993 e32. Now, cold air blows on driver side & hot air blows on passenger side???? What do think is the problem?
Thats awesome you’ve owned it so long. But that issue sounds 100% like the heater valves
Juan Manly this might be your heater control valve that is stuck open on the passenger and it closes on the driver side and blows the cold air. They sell kits to rebuild this part or you can just before purchase a new one. Before you rebuild it check to see if the solenoids open and close when you apply electricity.
If that does not solve your issue, check the actuator the close and open the flaps to your vents. They are gear driven those sometimes tend to break and prevents from the flap to open or close
Watched 539 recently and he did the PSP.. the shaft has to be pressed out.
I know. He posted it a few days too late 🤣
I gotta say m30 cars seem as simple as they look
And they are!
yo 1st one
Ayyy appreciate you!
Yo 2nd one
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
🫡🔧
ITS THRUSTING
Lmaooo
@M539Restorations
@@alexanderqnchev1434 funny I was with him yesterday hahaha