Beautiful Feline ! I looked up that DC to DC converter and was dismayed to find it is only 87% efficient. Your channel is my Go-To for great solar power info
Thank you. What converter are you talking about? The Victron Orion? Well, don't forget it's an isolated converter. They have more losses than regular, non-isolated ones. As the power is coming from solar, I'm not too fussed about that and the efficiency is still great considering that.
Very cute cat Andy! I think no need to worry about heat dissipation of the buck converter even though it's in an enclosure, since it's attached directly to the large Aluminium board. Cheers!
For your outdoor 5V access point, rather distribute 12V to the AP and then use a small buck converter to 5V. This will minimize the power losses and voltage drop across a lengthy cable.
I use passive PoE with PoE to 5V USB and PoE to 12V DC converters. It's helped me get rid of a load of plug adapters. You can get cheap inline splitters readily.
@@BobHannent This would be my second solution if plan A fails. I just want to try it with the long 10m 5V line and see if the voltage drop is too much.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia one thing I haven't figured out yet is how it's possible to run standard PoE from a 16S source. I suppose as long as the voltage is over 48.7V you can use a DC-DC converter with a decent input range.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The voltage drop will be a function of the current draw. Lower current, lower drop. However the lower the voltage, the more current your peripheral will draw.
Hi Andy, I was taught to always bend the cable to shape on tight bends before crimping the lugs on them. The reason being the cable strands in the outer part of the cure will stretch if you bend them to shape after they are crimped.
Yes, that is correct. If you crimp close to the bend, the single strands will move as you said. I leave the strands longer, bend the cable before roughly before I crimp and cut off the excess ferrule afterwards. The cable has then already a 'bended' shape.
Addendum to the below: regarding the opening to service the 12VDC supply, the best way is to have a hinged flap with a handle, on the top (‘roof’) cover, as you suggested. That way the facia will look neat n tidy. A thought….
Good evening from US EST. I want to wish you and your family a merry and safe Christmas, and a happy and fulfilling 2022. May your ideas see fruition with minimal frustration. I have enjoyed your experiments, and your builds over the last few months, and I have learned from them. I thank you for that, and I appreciate the efforts involved.
Andy forget about maintenance opening. I think access from the top is more than enough (if you dont have 20 screws on it 😄) and as you mentioned you are not expecting to do something there every week.
Andy, put a bi-fold hinged top on top mate, 2 reasons. 1 you can't drop it inside 2 you can't forget to refit it The little door on the front is redundant
I use a normal 240v laptop power supply for 12v. You can just cut the 240 plug off and it will run off 48vdc. Use local 5v power supplies. Make sure you take lots of pictures so you can document this wonderful build on your website.
Interesting... Even though I'm from Norway and lives in UK, I bought a land in Budapest where I build my new 142m2 home. This home will have both 220v AC and 12 and 5V DC grid. All lights will go from the 12V and I also bought 5 car stereos that I will use for the different rooms, including the bathroom. Car stereos are good and low-cost. So a 12V grid is good, but does not need to be exactly 12V. It's OK up to 16.4V. For the 5V I bought almost the same as you, plus some volt and ampere meters that I modified with a push button for the read out. So yes, having both 12 and 5V DC is a smart move when it comes to not using silly amount of transformers.
I have a 12-24 volt 26 quart fridge in my work van running off my solar on my van it stays on all the time and works great and was pretty cheap as well . Joytutus off amazon . I really enjoy your channel very informative. Keep up the great work .
The normal car fuses are only specified for 32V, but there are some specified for 58V. The fuses at the 12V output are maybe useless, because the DCDC converter is short circuit protected already, they may protect the USB and cigarrete lighter sockets
@@seanajacobs Depends on whether the Victron converters behave like a constant-current power source or enters a fold-back state (greatly reduced current until the output voltage recovers) in case of short-circuit conditions. If the converter has fold-back OCP instead of relying only on current limit, then the fuses may never blow since the converter will reduce current below the fuses' threshold within a few ms, 2-4 orders of magnitude faster than a 5A fuse on a 20A current-limited supply.
Dan, the Victron converter will do constant voltage and also constant current. Hence it can be used as a float charger for batteries. It will limit the current to 20A max, no matter what.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia There are battery chargers that cut off when the voltage is too low for a given current since it can be an indication of a dead cell and become a hazard. Similar reason to why some lithium pack protections go into lock-out and require manual recovery when a cell has excessively low voltage. If you want to float a 12V lead-acid battery (~13.5V) and you only get 10V while charging at 20A, chances are you have at least one shorted cell as even a healthy fully discharged lead-acid cells would immediately bounce back to 11-12V when charging current is applied. In this situation, you would be pumping 200W into running the remaining cells as HHO generators (overcharging the heck out of them) that could potentially explode at any time and spray sulphuric acid all over the place.
Hi Andy, just a daft one about your 12v fuse box, you have room on front panel to mount a box to witch you could fit the fuse box into, that way it's nice and tidy but also give access .......well just incase you need to replace a fuse or up rate a circuit.......just a thought.
Woo Hoo, you found the missing Allen screw. 😀 Boo Hoo, you lost two more. (Sounds just like what I do regularly Andy, the story of my life! 🤔😢) Great stuff, another interesting video. Cheers.
Nice video Andy. My suggestion would be make top of that box removable by simple way..lets say some hinges or such.. because you might think you will not change fuse or such..but you never know..So i would suggest to make ir removable and then don't drill hole at front..that would be too much ..
The front quick access, i'd say leave it as is and go through the top, put the lid on a hinge with a lock, then where you would put the quick access door, put your channel name or a sticker similar to your channel t-shirt. As for the bolts, check pants pockets in the laundry, check the car, could have taken them some where as sample. Please can you do a price breakdown of possible one the shelf is done.
I would put in an access door in the front panel. Horizontal surfaces always collect stuff that you would have to move out of the way to get in the top.
the "fridge" you were complaining about us a thermoelectric peltier device, they have a max perfect world potential of 40°f, so if its 60f they can freeze to 20f, at 80f they can get to 40f, 100f to 60f ect, and that's perfect conditions, most only can do a delta of around 25-30f so they are more designed for preconditioned spaces. look for a true compressor fridge, they cost more but work better, dometic makes a front door open version used in semitrucks and RVs, wynter makes a great chest cooler version for cars and outdoorsey tailgater type stuff. there's also the combination units (not talking fridge/freezer combos as they all do that) the ones I'm talking about are referred to as multi way with auto changeover... ie a 2 way can be run on grid power with a battery backup(manual switch sets power use priority), a 3 way has grid, battery, and natural gas/propane, there are others that can run diesel/petrol instead but now your talking big $$$$, they work like the webasto diesel fired air heaters almost, check amazon, truck centers or the rv superstores, not all these units are created equal so do your own equipment quality checks, don't go off the sales guys word, still loving the content
I took one apart and the potential was only 28° as per the specs for this peltier at 12V. They let it run on 5V (USB) with no power for cooling whatsoever. The beer was warm 🤢
I tested one with my phone as it has QC tech built in. It maxed out at 2.8A and had two flashes in the display for ultra fast charging. Never seen this before. At around 70-80% the current started to taper off. The cameras will slow charge anyway. They don't take much more than 600-700mA.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I'm not surprised that you have already tested this... After all, it appears to be in your nature to leave no stone unturned LoL... Good job 👍👌
Once you put the partition up for a 12-volt and 5- V sideways you could do is either drill a hole in tapaha at the pop right next to the other circuit breakers and then cut that sheet of aluminum after that so that way you can remove an access panel or cut you a square hole just afterwards a good-sized one that you can use as a maintenance hatch get a piece of aluminum cut that's a little bit larger than that hole by about an inch drill some holes in it tap the opposite side of the panel and put some removable screws so you can have you an access hatch as well
Hi Andy, it's really fun to watch your videos. And we can learn and benefit so much from your projects. But I have a comment about the DC-DC converter you want to use for the Raspi and the WiFi router. Isn't 3 amps too low for the two devices? For the Raspi4, 3 amps is already recommended and the router will also need 1-2 amps at 5V. Looking forward to the next video. Greetings Andreas
Thank you. The Raspi draws only 1.1A while starting and around 0.7A during normal operation, the Wifi bridge is 0.5A all the time, so should be totally fine. I can also adjust the output voltage of the 5V converter.
Hey Andy, looked at several of the videos and your blog but did not see any parts listing for the flexible wire loom you used and the wire glands you used with the loom. Is this loom split or solid? Would kind of like to use this stuff but not sure where to find. The stuff I see and have used before for automotive usage is not only split but also rather hard plastic. The stuff you are using appears to be much more supple and not split. Let me know if you have time. Thanks as always
Hey Andy, new to your channel, loving the content and your logical down to earth style, on the question of front panel fuse access? many aircraft (home ) builders will (piano) hinge the lower edge of entire instrument panel (dash board) of the plane Hinging the lower edge of your display plate, would allow the entire panel to swing down for any fuse/maintenance/future upgrade work to be performed unhindered - just a thought? keep up the great work Cheers Glenn. - Illawarra.
Thank you Glenn and welcome to the channel. For this I would need to take off the switchboard covers first. But it's a good idea though. I'll think about it... Thank you.
Why not put casters on the bottom of the shelf so you can move the cabinet away from the wall if necessary, without having to take the batteries out? It might make battery installation easier too, since you wouldn't have to put the self in its final location before installing the batteries.
Hinge on top cover. leave the front alone. Also don't run 5v out of the shelf. too much losses over long cables. best to run 12v to your access point and use a small buck converter to drop the voltage down at the destination. This is why electric companies run high voltage lines to step down transformers before going to the houses.
The 5V output voltage can be adjusted to compensate for the cable length. It is set to 5.2V by default it says but can be bumped up to 5.6V I believe. The Raspi pulls around 1.1A, the Wifi bridge less than 500mA. If I use a 2.5mm cable, the voltag drop should be managable. I understand where you're coming from and it makes sense.
Plase consider that usual AC breakers do not care for voltage loss i.e. of 0.5V as in AC application the losses are miniscule. But at low voltage applications this might be an issue. At rated current they may dissipate up to about 5W each (depending on rated current and manufacturer). Manufacturers do not like to provide the internal resistance in their data sheet. I do not claim that this "feature" is necessarly a disadvantage in your application but it should be looked at.
The Pi does not need a display as it runs from the app. You can connect a HDMI screen (even with touch) but I need to wait until the shelf is in place to see how much space I really have left. Some other upgrades are on their way...
@@eat333 sorry, I was talking about the Victron VRM app. VenusOS is running on the Pi and this app connects to it. The Pi itself does not need any further maintenance or control.
Hi Andy, I live in the UK and I can buy a 6kw 48 volt hybrid inverter that can power 240volts ac without batteries. My question is, while I haven't got any 48 volt batteries for storage at the moment ,but have 12 volt lithium batteries 100 ah each,.can I connect a 48v dc to 12v dc to the 48v hybrid inverter to charge my 12v lithium batteries? Cheers Jason.
I would not fuse 5V. That seems overkill to me. Don’t put the front hatch yet. Do that later, when/if you know you need it. The front is stronger and nicer without, and the opening could be too small. You’re not a gynecologist, are you? ;-)
Super Video. Machen Sie alle drei Etagen voll mit Akku. Oder machen Sie ein anach dem anderen. Was machen Sie mit den alten Akku integrieren. Oder in Rente schicken.
I'm pretty sure Andy has 32 new batteries, and will put the existing 48v 16s1p cells into the new battery shelf as the third. 48v 16s3p @840Ah. 40kWh system.
121921/0003h PST 🇺🇸 121921/1803h Brisbane🇦🇺 Thank you for the video. The job has good precision on all cutting, drilling, tapping, and the holes for the USB female sockets and 12V socket. Both ends of the Al panel cutout has a design that adds to the beauty of the console. Great job, indeed. The 72~24V to 12V @3A DIN rail converter unit looks good. Do we have make and model number of the unit? Thanks once again take care n be safe. 73s…
I bought this DC converter from here: www.tro.com.au/search?keywords=dc%20converter They have great prices (if you're here in AU) and also stock the large NOARK MCCBs.
Want to see you parallel your batteries. Mine charge at different rates. So 30% to 80%. 200ah x32 split in to parallel packs of 16 with daly 250amp bms. Weird how 1 pack charges faster.
just a reminder: on your website the liquid electronic tape is missing in the cable connector section tried to search liquid using google site:ogg command and 0 results.
Working from above is not a good solution. I'd put in a maintenance access door. Maybe from the side below the USB outlets? If that's not possible I'd go for the front panel.
Always wonder. what If I seperate an already 16s battery to 4 x 12v without remove bms.. Just 8 cables same length to 12v outlet and a 12v low voltage disconnect a bit over the parameters than bms.. And voila you have 12v output only problem. You won't measure the loads . In small loads its going to be ok I guess
If you cut the front panel, you could put plexiglass over it, and put colorful LED's on the inside to make it 'glow'. Then tap the panel so you can unscrew it later if necessary. You would probably need to make this inside presentable 24/7 so that it always looks good.
![Why a 48V System is Better than a 12V? [Vatrer Power]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8ukQ9wQfMIY/mqdefault.jpg)
Beautiful Feline ! I looked up that DC to DC converter and was dismayed to find it is only 87% efficient. Your channel is my Go-To for great solar power info
Thank you. What converter are you talking about? The Victron Orion? Well, don't forget it's an isolated converter. They have more losses than regular, non-isolated ones. As the power is coming from solar, I'm not too fussed about that and the efficiency is still great considering that.
There is always time to pet the cat. And I love your sense of humour with pretending not to understand the German instructions!
Very cute cat Andy! I think no need to worry about heat dissipation of the buck converter even though it's in an enclosure, since it's attached directly to the large Aluminium board. Cheers!
For your outdoor 5V access point, rather distribute 12V to the AP and then use a small buck converter to 5V. This will minimize the power losses and voltage drop across a lengthy cable.
That’s very correct. What ever the DC loss can be trimmed at the BC potentiometer to exact 5.2VDC. Thanks.
I use passive PoE with PoE to 5V USB and PoE to 12V DC converters. It's helped me get rid of a load of plug adapters. You can get cheap inline splitters readily.
@@BobHannent This would be my second solution if plan A fails. I just want to try it with the long 10m 5V line and see if the voltage drop is too much.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia one thing I haven't figured out yet is how it's possible to run standard PoE from a 16S source. I suppose as long as the voltage is over 48.7V you can use a DC-DC converter with a decent input range.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The voltage drop will be a function of the current draw. Lower current, lower drop. However the lower the voltage, the more current your peripheral will draw.
Andy, no access panel on the front, to much clutter. I agree with others - piano hinge on top shelf. 😎
Das wird großartig. Eine super Konstruktion.
Lg aus Detmold
Hi Andy, I was taught to always bend the cable to shape on tight bends before crimping the lugs on them. The reason being the cable strands in the outer part of the cure will stretch if you bend them to shape after they are crimped.
Yes, that is correct. If you crimp close to the bend, the single strands will move as you said. I leave the strands longer, bend the cable before roughly before I crimp and cut off the excess ferrule afterwards. The cable has then already a 'bended' shape.
Addendum to the below: regarding the opening to service the 12VDC supply, the best way is to have a hinged flap with a handle, on the top (‘roof’) cover, as you suggested. That way the facia will look neat n tidy. A thought….
Good evening from US EST. I want to wish you and your family a merry and safe Christmas, and a happy and fulfilling 2022. May your ideas see fruition with minimal frustration. I have enjoyed your experiments, and your builds over the last few months, and I have learned from them. I thank you for that, and I appreciate the efforts involved.
Thank you very much Edward. I wish you and your family all the best for 2022!
Rivnuts. Will do the trick... ps love the quality installations you do...
Thanks Andy
Andy forget about maintenance opening. I think access from the top is more than enough (if you dont have 20 screws on it 😄) and as you mentioned you are not expecting to do something there every week.
Andy, put a bi-fold hinged top on top mate, 2 reasons.
1 you can't drop it inside
2 you can't forget to refit it
The little door on the front is redundant
I use a normal 240v laptop power supply for 12v. You can just cut the 240 plug off and it will run off 48vdc. Use local 5v power supplies. Make sure you take lots of pictures so you can document this wonderful build on your website.
Superbe idée ANDY et ces options ne sont que très utiles 🥰👍
Interesting... Even though I'm from Norway and lives in UK, I bought a land in Budapest where I build my new 142m2 home. This home will have both 220v AC and 12 and 5V DC grid. All lights will go from the 12V and I also bought 5 car stereos that I will use for the different rooms, including the bathroom. Car stereos are good and low-cost. So a 12V grid is good, but does not need to be exactly 12V. It's OK up to 16.4V. For the 5V I bought almost the same as you, plus some volt and ampere meters that I modified with a push button for the read out. So yes, having both 12 and 5V DC is a smart move when it comes to not using silly amount of transformers.
Heya, bild in 12V and 5V dc to dc converters that's a pretty smart idea as a lot of electronics these days use them nice I like it.
I have a 12-24 volt 26 quart fridge in my work van running off my solar on my van it stays on all the time and works great and was pretty cheap as well . Joytutus off amazon . I really enjoy your channel very informative. Keep up the great work .
Thank you, great tip with the fridge. I'll look into it.
Thank U Andy Have a Great Day Mate BeSafe
If you did want to get rid of the nuts from then USB/cigarette socket holder, you could use rivnuts. Holes won't be too big for them.
So informative. Can't wait for new content. You have education me on many things solar. Thank you.
Hab` schon lange vermutet dass Du deutsch sprichst - weil ich Dich sehr gut verstehe
The normal car fuses are only specified for 32V, but there are some specified for 58V.
The fuses at the 12V output are maybe useless, because the DCDC converter is short circuit protected already, they may protect the USB and cigarrete lighter sockets
The fuses are designed to protect the wires going to the individual loads. That is all.
@@seanajacobs Depends on whether the Victron converters behave like a constant-current power source or enters a fold-back state (greatly reduced current until the output voltage recovers) in case of short-circuit conditions. If the converter has fold-back OCP instead of relying only on current limit, then the fuses may never blow since the converter will reduce current below the fuses' threshold within a few ms, 2-4 orders of magnitude faster than a 5A fuse on a 20A current-limited supply.
I like to have single fuses for the circuits (cable protection). Just for peace of mind. But generally you're right.
Dan, the Victron converter will do constant voltage and also constant current. Hence it can be used as a float charger for batteries. It will limit the current to 20A max, no matter what.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia There are battery chargers that cut off when the voltage is too low for a given current since it can be an indication of a dead cell and become a hazard. Similar reason to why some lithium pack protections go into lock-out and require manual recovery when a cell has excessively low voltage.
If you want to float a 12V lead-acid battery (~13.5V) and you only get 10V while charging at 20A, chances are you have at least one shorted cell as even a healthy fully discharged lead-acid cells would immediately bounce back to 11-12V when charging current is applied. In this situation, you would be pumping 200W into running the remaining cells as HHO generators (overcharging the heck out of them) that could potentially explode at any time and spray sulphuric acid all over the place.
The 12v Kings 15l fridge is a good little shed fridge.
Hi Andy, just a daft one about your 12v fuse box, you have room on front panel to mount a box to witch you could fit the fuse box into, that way it's nice and tidy but also give access .......well just incase you need to replace a fuse or up rate a circuit.......just a thought.
Don't cut the front panel. I think without the door it looks more clean and better :)
Great job
Woo Hoo, you found the missing Allen screw. 😀
Boo Hoo, you lost two more. (Sounds just like what I do regularly Andy, the story of my life! 🤔😢)
Great stuff, another interesting video. Cheers.
And I haven't found the other two yet... 🤔
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Sounds like you’ve definitely taken a page out of my book Andy.
I’m EXTREMELY proficient at that sort of thing. 😢
Nice video Andy. My suggestion would be make top of that box removable by simple way..lets say some hinges or such.. because you might think you will not change fuse or such..but you never know..So i would suggest to make ir removable and then don't drill hole at front..that would be too much ..
Thank you, that was my initial idea as well, so we will stick to that...
The front quick access, i'd say leave it as is and go through the top, put the lid on a hinge with a lock, then where you would put the quick access door, put your channel name or a sticker similar to your channel t-shirt.
As for the bolts, check pants pockets in the laundry, check the car, could have taken them some where as sample.
Please can you do a price breakdown of possible one the shelf is done.
I would put in an access door in the front panel. Horizontal surfaces always collect stuff that you would have to move out of the way to get in the top.
Compromise, and split the lid/roof at the divider for a lid on top, you can use a hinge(piano type) for access. The front wil look nice that way.
Looks like you have a little ADD like me. Always losing things that I “put away” and now can’t remember where
as a maintenance lecky I say put a door in(12volt door) you will not regret it .You will need to test more often then you think
I know myself well and may change this compartment and connections a few times... Still considering...
Thank you
You're welcome
the "fridge" you were complaining about us a thermoelectric peltier device, they have a max perfect world potential of 40°f, so if its 60f they can freeze to 20f, at 80f they can get to 40f, 100f to 60f ect, and that's perfect conditions, most only can do a delta of around 25-30f so they are more designed for preconditioned spaces. look for a true compressor fridge, they cost more but work better, dometic makes a front door open version used in semitrucks and RVs, wynter makes a great chest cooler version for cars and outdoorsey tailgater type stuff. there's also the combination units (not talking fridge/freezer combos as they all do that) the ones I'm talking about are referred to as multi way with auto changeover... ie a 2 way can be run on grid power with a battery backup(manual switch sets power use priority), a 3 way has grid, battery, and natural gas/propane, there are others that can run diesel/petrol instead but now your talking big $$$$, they work like the webasto diesel fired air heaters almost, check amazon, truck centers or the rv superstores, not all these units are created equal so do your own equipment quality checks, don't go off the sales guys word, still loving the content
I took one apart and the potential was only 28° as per the specs for this peltier at 12V. They let it run on 5V (USB) with no power for cooling whatsoever. The beer was warm 🤢
Now we need to test those USB chargers to see if they are actually QC3 or they have have the QC3 USB ports installed in a 500ma body....
I tested one with my phone as it has QC tech built in. It maxed out at 2.8A and had two flashes in the display for ultra fast charging. Never seen this before. At around 70-80% the current started to taper off.
The cameras will slow charge anyway. They don't take much more than 600-700mA.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I'm not surprised that you have already tested this... After all, it appears to be in your nature to leave no stone unturned LoL... Good job 👍👌
Once you put the partition up for a 12-volt and 5- V sideways you could do is either drill a hole in tapaha at the pop right next to the other circuit breakers and then cut that sheet of aluminum after that so that way you can remove an access panel or cut you a square hole just afterwards a good-sized one that you can use as a maintenance hatch get a piece of aluminum cut that's a little bit larger than that hole by about an inch drill some holes in it tap the opposite side of the panel and put some removable screws so you can have you an access hatch as well
Hi Andy, it's really fun to watch your videos. And we can learn and benefit so much from your projects.
But I have a comment about the DC-DC converter you want to use for the Raspi and the WiFi router. Isn't 3 amps too low for the two devices? For the Raspi4, 3 amps is already recommended and the router will also need 1-2 amps at 5V.
Looking forward to the next video.
Greetings Andreas
Thank you. The Raspi draws only 1.1A while starting and around 0.7A during normal operation, the Wifi bridge is 0.5A all the time, so should be totally fine. I can also adjust the output voltage of the 5V converter.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia power 4 USB with 3 amps, not enough. The MPPT stop communicating and show disconnected. Saludos!
To a dog you're family.
To a cat you're household staff.
Hey Andy, looked at several of the videos and your blog but did not see any parts listing for the flexible wire loom you used and the wire glands you used with the loom. Is this loom split or solid? Would kind of like to use this stuff but not sure where to find. The stuff I see and have used before for automotive usage is not only split but also rather hard plastic. The stuff you are using appears to be much more supple and not split. Let me know if you have time. Thanks as always
Hey Andy, new to your channel, loving the content and your logical down to earth style, on the question of front panel fuse access? many aircraft (home ) builders will (piano) hinge the lower edge of entire instrument panel (dash board) of the plane
Hinging the lower edge of your display plate, would allow the entire panel to swing down for any fuse/maintenance/future upgrade work to be performed unhindered - just a thought? keep up the great work
Cheers Glenn. - Illawarra.
Thank you Glenn and welcome to the channel. For this I would need to take off the switchboard covers first. But it's a good idea though. I'll think about it... Thank you.
If you need an access panel to the 12v fuses, etc., maybe put that access hatch in the roof, out of sight.
Don’t cut more from the front panel. It will be anyway to small for doing anything easy onto the inside.
Did you check your breaker for the missing screws?
Yes, got the screw and replaced with the right torque 😉
Thanks for more Videos a week, go for a livechat Silvester?
Yes to door and a second Victron shunt.
Why not put casters on the bottom of the shelf so you can move the cabinet away from the wall if necessary, without having to take the batteries out? It might make battery installation easier too, since you wouldn't have to put the self in its final location before installing the batteries.
Hinge on top cover. leave the front alone.
Also don't run 5v out of the shelf. too much losses over long cables. best to run 12v to your access point and use a small buck converter to drop the voltage down at the destination.
This is why electric companies run high voltage lines to step down transformers before going to the houses.
The 5V output voltage can be adjusted to compensate for the cable length. It is set to 5.2V by default it says but can be bumped up to 5.6V I believe.
The Raspi pulls around 1.1A, the Wifi bridge less than 500mA. If I use a 2.5mm cable, the voltag drop should be managable.
I understand where you're coming from and it makes sense.
That little fridge is a joke I had one too but regretted buying it.Maybe consider Dc fridge atlst 50litre..more beer🍻
Don't bother with any of those thermal electric coolers thing they are horribly inefficient just get a regular mini fridge
Exactly. Super inefficient.
Nice video sir
Do the electrons flow around tight bends efficiently? ;)
That's a good question. I have to test thoroughly! 😌
Plase consider that usual AC breakers do not care for voltage loss i.e. of 0.5V as in AC application the losses are miniscule. But at low voltage applications this might be an issue. At rated current they may dissipate up to about 5W each (depending on rated current and manufacturer). Manufacturers do not like to provide the internal resistance in their data sheet.
I do not claim that this "feature" is necessarly a disadvantage in your application but it should be looked at.
I can’t find that neat 5v din mount dc-dc converter. Link?
does raspberry not need an extra display for various monitoring? combine display with a hatch?
The Pi does not need a display as it runs from the app. You can connect a HDMI screen (even with touch) but I need to wait until the shelf is in place to see how much space I really have left. Some other upgrades are on their way...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia which app do you use for raspberry pi
@@eat333 sorry, I was talking about the Victron VRM app. VenusOS is running on the Pi and this app connects to it. The Pi itself does not need any further maintenance or control.
Where to get them busbars?
Andy could you link to that 5v dc to dc converter, Mahalo from Hawaii
Can u roll the shhelves out from the wall?
The converter, cant you adjust voltage in the app with bluetooth?
How hong have you been in Australia? your meter is a German one :-)
Hi Andy, I live in the UK and I can buy a 6kw 48 volt hybrid inverter that can power 240volts ac without batteries. My question is, while I haven't got any 48 volt batteries for storage at the moment ,but have 12 volt lithium batteries 100 ah each,.can I connect a 48v dc to 12v dc to the 48v hybrid inverter to charge my 12v lithium batteries?
Cheers Jason.
I would not fuse 5V. That seems overkill to me.
Don’t put the front hatch yet. Do that later, when/if you know you need it. The front is stronger and nicer without, and the opening could be too small. You’re not a gynecologist, are you? ;-)
Hahaha, great comment. Yeah, I'll take the top lid off if I ever need to get in there. Thanks.
Super Video.
Machen Sie alle drei Etagen voll mit Akku. Oder machen Sie ein anach dem anderen. Was machen Sie mit den alten Akku integrieren. Oder in Rente schicken.
I'm pretty sure Andy has 32 new batteries, and will put the existing 48v 16s1p cells into the new battery shelf as the third. 48v 16s3p @840Ah. 40kWh system.
121921/0003h PST 🇺🇸 121921/1803h Brisbane🇦🇺 Thank you for the video. The job has good precision on all cutting, drilling, tapping, and the holes for the USB female sockets and 12V socket. Both ends of the Al panel cutout has a design that adds to the beauty of the console. Great job, indeed. The 72~24V to 12V @3A DIN rail converter unit looks good. Do we have make and model number of the unit? Thanks once again take care n be safe. 73s…
I bought this DC converter from here:
www.tro.com.au/search?keywords=dc%20converter
They have great prices (if you're here in AU) and also stock the large NOARK MCCBs.
Yeah you won’t have to worry about the 12v fuses
Access door on top maybe.
Want to see you parallel your batteries. Mine charge at different rates. So 30% to 80%. 200ah x32 split in to parallel packs of 16 with daly 250amp bms. Weird how 1 pack charges faster.
just a reminder: on your website the liquid electronic tape is missing in the cable connector section
tried to search liquid using google site:ogg command and 0 results.
I'll add this tonight, thanks.
Fo Eva Eva?
More cat content please ;-)
Will look neat n tidy…. My thought…
Thanks Sree!
Willkommen, Andy…
Andy there are 18600 subscribers, update the number.
Working from above is not a good solution. I'd put in a maintenance access door. Maybe from the side below the USB outlets? If that's not possible I'd go for the front panel.
Always wonder. what If I seperate an already 16s battery to 4 x 12v without remove bms.. Just 8 cables same length to 12v outlet and a 12v low voltage disconnect a bit over the parameters than bms.. And voila you have 12v output only problem. You won't measure the loads . In small loads its going to be ok I guess
Don't cut any more from front, hole will be too small to do any work.
If you cut the front panel, you could put plexiglass over it, and put colorful LED's on the inside to make it 'glow'. Then tap the panel so you can unscrew it later if necessary. You would probably need to make this inside presentable 24/7 so that it always looks good.
The number of subscribers on your wall is incorrect :D
I leave this there so people can comment on it 😂
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Sorry, but I could not find anything else incorrect in your video to comment on it. 😁
@@danielardelian2 That has been corrected now 😄
Awe! N0 frogs :-(
Omg 😲 I am first 🥰
If it's to loud your to old just saying.