Refrigerator not Cooling, Charge with R134A and Resealable Can
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- Get your R 134A from Amazon here
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Get your adapter for the can at Amazon here (Note: apparently this is a California requirement)
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Get your Bullet Piercing Valve here at Amazon
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Get your Pocket Sliding Bar Caliper here at Amazon
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Get your can of Superseal here at Amazon
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I will feel more confident to refill my fridge/freezer after watching your detailled video. It's like having already the first experience, before the first jump into a new experience, crossed fingers... Big thank!
I usually just install piercing or saddle valve, add UV dye, add freon to +15psi on low side(for refrigerator only) and DONE in 30 min. I tell customer to call me when fridge get warm again. Typically it will get low on freon after one year. When customer call me again I will find a leak with UV flashlight and yellow glasses and do permanent repair. Thank you for good video!
Wow that’s a dedicated service tech. Wish I could find one that knowledgeable.
You have done a wonderful job we need more talented people like you ,I must thank you so so much.
Refrigeration guy by trade....decent, but don't be thinking you can get a very good reading on a pipe with an infrared thermometer. you will be way off if you take readings this way. strap a real pipe temp sensor onto the pipe to get an accurate reading.
Learned a lot from this video. Some unconventional tricks too.
This is the best tutorial I've seen on troubleshooting these types of coolers. Thanks you very much!
Really thats so sad
@@jimanderson2518 post a link to yours then.
@@jimanderson2518 So are you. Step up!
Ken thanks for the great instructional video it's giving me the courage to take it one step further before I dump thousand plus dollars into a new refrigerator
Ken, You killed it... That was the greatest HVAC repair video Ever.. So thorough and complete.. You should be teaching a HVAC class....BRAVO
Very Kind. Thank you
@@KenTraining that was a super great video right here! And, what brand and model (of vacuum pump) that you’re using in this video?
Hi Ken proper temperature for Coca Cola cooler is 38 degrees for consumption, from a Coke Tech.
Ken ; unbelievable video with may great tips of how to service refrigiration unit that is low on R-134.】
Thank you, you sure know how to explain things as you are working on, very well invested my more than an hour time watching the video.
You are the master at this! Thank you for the badass video and masterful knowledge.
The perfect measure of enough is the measuremnent 1/2 between the maximum and minimum, if we exceed that point, It is our ego at work, if we fall short then we are slackers. I like the way you think, and praise the passion you have for your Profession.
3:19 - ANTI-CROSSTHREAD TIP: If you start by turning the bolt, nut, cap or screw with a right-handed thread up to one full turn to the left, until you feel it jump to the next thread before turning to the right, you'll never cross-thread a screw again. This works for ALL thread types: course, fine, wood, sheet metal, etc.
Pro tip, get this man a cold beer!
Grandpa taught me this when I was around 6. Lololol
Ken next time use a saddle srader valve. We used them every time when tapping a line they solder on and are permanently soldered on without blowing the refrigerant charge. They save a lot of time. If I had one handy I would give you the part number. Good luck
Thank you for your Passionate Educational video. Gonna download it! And share it as well
I noticed you did not check temps on both side's of the drier that could also show a vacuum reading which could show a plugged drier just saying
Really Good Job, Thanks for time
Very good trainer
1l when you charged with nitrogen the first time it would've been a good time to check with soap and water all points, even your gauges.
2. It might be a good Idea to add the refrigerant while it is on the scale.
This is one of the best videos on refrigeration that I have seen here on TH-cam, thank you for posting it Ken!
Very good not using leak seal only two things In a system is refrigerant oil and refrigerant please don't use the can it for cars only that's why it a most use a micro gauge you could see if the system has moisture or a leak if you pull down to 500 micro bank off which means turn off vacuum pump to see if micro reading rise because refrigerant cost $$$ to you and customer .
Thanks for sharing and taking time to explain the details great video.
I feel a really fine steel wool works good for polishing the copper tube.
Poor repair techniques. When you remove your manifold, you lost all vacuum. Invest in a T connection, a micron gauge, a core moral tool (doubles as a valve), and 30 lb jug of 134a, Nylog, and hoses with valves. Hook up and vacuum to 500 microns (300 if your pump will do it). In that vacuum, you vacuum all the way to the 134a jug as well; hence the T on the service hose to vacuum and cylinder. Then you valve off the micron gauge and your manifold, and the high-side and low-side hose at the service ports, and your vacuum. With the can upright, you open the cylinder, service hose, low-side manifold and high-side manifold... and this brings vapor up to the service ports on the vending machine without letting any flow into the machine. Now you weigh the jug for its before weight, Next, you flip the cylinder upside-down, then open the high-side manifold to charge the hose with mostly liquid up to the high-side port and open the high-side at the service port. Stop at 80% your charge closing it at the machine. Flip tank upright close cylinder, and start machine leaving the high-side manifold open but shut at service port of the machine (allows you to get the liquid out of the hose in next step). .., slowly open low-side at machine... then slowly crack low-side manifold... all liquid in high-side hose will flash and go into machine... leaving just vapor in all hoses like it was when you weighed tank... using cylinder upright re-open cylinder and open low-side port on machine then feed in to 100% charge by scale u dear jug. Close all valves. Now if you want a high-side reading you would shut high-side manifold and open service port to get high-side reading, but liquid would enter the hose... you would need to close it at the machine and put it back through the low-side manifold. Regardless, everything should be closed including the cylinder and only vapor in all hoses when you reach 100% charge just as your first weight. You should have the quick disconnect that allow you to unscrew before breaking the connections at the service port of the vending machine. Otherwise you loose at least an ounce disconnecting. If you do this, you have absolutely no air and factory-perfect charge when done. Place on brass service caps either rubber gasketed or tapper type. Use small dab of Nylog on each regardless. Brass caps hand right then like a 1/16” inch by pliers just to compress rubber. If taper caps, they are basically a flare fitting. Tighten caps by pliers until quite snug.
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Lppl00f is
Most informative. Could you elaborate upon "You should have the quick disconnect that allow you to unscrew before breaking the connections at the service port "?
There's no way you lose an ounce disconnecting... or even a half ounce... unless you're irrationally slow at unscrewing the connections. Most of what you said would get me fired from my company for taking too long, and needing too many expensive non-necessities. This guy did a pretty good job. A few hiccups, but not all of us can be perfect Super-Techs like you.
A pro who really knows sealed systems would never leave access valves on a critically charged system. Use the process tubes and pinch them off and seal with a braze, just like the factory did. It’s no longer a hermetically sealed system, Iike it came from the factory
If it’s slowly not cooling like it once did after 10/15!
Years don’t worry too much about a leak if it was still cooling, just add some feron and keep checking temperature with a gauge
Add as needed with temperature control set half way
Vacuum gauge works great instead of compound gauges. Nitrogen pressure changes a tad with ambient temperature.
Thanks for sharing such an informative video! I subscribed
Thanks for your time ken ,you brought out some interesting questions for others to learn from.
fully excellent ...thank you
Amazing Video!!! Thanks very much for helping me to see how a craftsman handles a real world job. Again fascinating! Thanks.
50 years ago we poured Christie dry gas in the charging hose shake it out then charge the frige never had cap freeze up or dryer added.🤔
This is an excellent video thank you so much I did learn a lot can you do something about deep freezer
I will try. Thanks for subscribing.
current clamp on neutral will measure total current of appliance including lights and fans. clamp should be on line to compressor only to properly measure compressor running current.
you are correct, i was just trying to make my job as easy as possible for me.
The lessons is very much appreciated, Thanks. My refrigerator is a Whirlpool, No frost single cabinet. Two questions #1 The spec on the back listed R134A (CH2 FCF3) 0.096kg is this the refrigerant capacity. #2 is there a sealant for the bullet piercing valve so as to assure there is no leak.
1. that appears to the the amount of refrigerant. 2. you could add a stop leak product BUT you are far better off changing the piercing valve out.
The Trainer Would Have Never Been Able To Repair Refrigerator For Sears Product Service
Friendly and knowlegable guy I learned a few things as well Thanks
use leakloc or nylog instead of plumbing teflon tape on your analog gauge to prevent leaks
never use leakloc on refrigeration system Or tape.
You should be installing a service port those piercing valves are terrible.
No need to measure the tubing. grab the adapters for the tap and use the one that fits snug on the tube you want to pierce.
Great video! Very Thorough! Thanks for taking your time to do this!! Liked !!
Note cyclinders must be up right. other than that a great job.1.21/2023
Another well put together video. Thanks for taking the time and effort.
BenP83
Very good knowledge, I can’t imagine having the latest technology available, but wondering the profitability to the company
Appreciate the video Ken. If you run across something like this again put some R22 in there for your leak test. The H10 will work much better.
I do not use tapping vaves rather use a shrouder valve..
Very nice video. Keep them comings.
Great video
Thanks for the guide. However 41degrees seems high for a fridge. It should be under 40 for food. Would that be adjusted by raising it to a 8 or 9? 41 is fine for a soda fridge but any meat or dairy should be under 40
Its a Beverage cooler.
Not good to run with a negative reading, will damage the compressor
Add a tad to bring up to 20 at least and then change as needed
Rule #1 of making a video - always make sure the light is behind you, preferably a busy street outside so you can see if anybody you know goes by.
Hey Ken, next time you should weigh the can with the adapter and hose, I think that you over filled it a bit
+Ricardo Nunez good comments, Thank you.
Hello Ken
I really all your videos , i star HVAC in school, these help me alot .hope to see more your videos on youtube
Thank you so much
Ignore most of the negative comments Ken really great training video.
You are not supposed to leave access valves on a sealed system. The charge is to critical, and access valves are known to eventually leak. Use the process tubes to access the unit and then pinch them off and braze shut. This is how the factory did it. Leaving access valves on small systems like refrigerators and drinking fountain coolers is not best practice. If there are service valves from the factory, this does not apply.
I disagree, I will leave in place.
You HAVE to add a few gallons of water for a load on the unit besides the air inside of it, if you do not have a load in the thing good luck trying to do what you are doing.
When you charge these system couple way to charge these system .Don't nameplate charge because the system .You put in different drier most of the time can't read it nameplate charge . With cooler off charge liquid in the high side and watch the low side it should rise if not cap restriction Turn the system on watch the pressure as box gets colder pressure sure drop and take running amp off the compressor you might have to put little more refrigerant in low side watch the suction line and pressure if it frost too much refrigerant take some out in till it backs off watch your amp it sure be running under the running amp .R134a low Side sure be running at 20# or less the high side 150# or less. This is how is done because you will be repairing this unit again on free spend the money do it right the first time .Most the time the condenser get plugged because customer never PM cooler it run hot and you will get wax or oil breaks down and on the cap tube gets plugged and the compressor
Good video
why didn't you separate the evaporator from the condenser?
Great and practical video!
So if the leak is on the low side what do you think just entered the system. Let's think about that for a second. And most likely most fridges will have a leak in the evaporator due to acidic foods kept in them. Also those line taps are temporary a tee and shrader fitting should be brazed in as a permanent access port on both the suction and discharge lines along with the drier being changed. But first and foremost the leak needs to be located and repaired.
Jeff Scanlan
You showed him with all the videos on your page
😂
@@luvdogsandhorses Dude I would run circles around this guy it's actually quite entertaining watching these videos. If I showed him some of the work I do he wouldn't understand what I was working on. Lol
Jeff Scanlan
Where are your videos posted
Really want to learn everything that should be done for an LG linear compressor changeout
@@luvdogsandhorses Too funny why don't you read the manual or take a couple of training courses that's what the rest of do. No need to post videos. Oh and I personally have never changed an LG compressor. We install and work on alot of Mitsubishi and Daiken units and if you want to talk linear or variable technology I have installed and worked on alot of Turbocor applications both chiller and built up systems. Not sure what your background is. Recently installed a 64 head City Multi system with over 3000ft of piping and the list goes on.
Jeff Scanlan
You claimed expertise not me
I’m trying to learn
Mostly need a extensive list of best practices for refrigerator sealed system repair
One pet peeve I have is technicians skimping on known best practices
Here’s one example for you
In the HVAC world it’s pretty much a given that you can’t be sure you don’t have a leak with analog compound gauges in an hour (but technicians skip leaving pressure test in place which overlooks fixing the problem or knowing that it has been fixed )
I want to know what the consensus is on old compound gauges vs new (digital .1 psi) how long to leave each in place to be thorough
Some other concerns
Flushing with compressor change
Possible oil contamination when not isolating vacuum pump properly etc
I continue to look for answers but would like links and such to assist myself and other’s
Never weld only suction without a high side port to see if cap tube maybe stopped up. Most all gauge leak.
You Need A Schrader tool, Robinair 18560 Valve Core Remover/Installer
Great job!
I just came across this video and silver soldering in this Schrader valve why wouldn’t you have the line being purged with argon while you were brazing this..... You just left a whole lot of junk soot and scale on the inside of that copper.....
Very good video
Your videos are great! Keep them coming pls.
In your opinion would there be a benefit to installing an access valve on the high side between the compressor and the condenser? I'm looking at these refrigerators and see a similarity between them and automotive A/C systems.
Replace Filter/Drier with a Schrader Access Core Valve Built-in
I like this tip and will do so in the future.
@@KenTraining Any of you guys have a link?
@@NickFarrow try this / www.supplyhouse.com/Emerson-Flow-Controls-065965-3-8-ODF-EK-163S-Series-Liquid-Line-Filter-Drier-16-Cubic-Inches
Never leave an access valve on a sealed system. Use the process tubes(like the factory did). That’s the reason they call it a critically charged sealed system.
My frighfreezer is ffa52 hotpoint ice diamond.
Great Video! Liked! Excellent troubleshooting and analysis! You actually lost about 70% of your charge. Given such a small charge amount and depending on how old the unit was that might not be terrible or it could be.
0:30 - That’s quite a comprehensive looking checklist can you explain the different items or post a copy?
go here for all my forms kentraining.wixsite.com/kentraining/download-all-forms-here
@@KenTraining Thanks, Ken. This is great!
Hmm. I thought you were using a refrigeration checklist like for a refrigerator or walk-in freezer. I see checklists for comfort cooling and ductwork.
@@garypoplin4599 Sorry, I only have 1 check list. Most of my work is AC and not refrigeration.
@@KenTraining That’s ok. I’m in the process of creating my own list along with some refrigeration tips like letting the N2 pressure out of the system through the low side instead of pushing all the oil out of the receiver through the king valve!
Nice video. Very thorough.
If you do not find and fix the leak, it will not work for long-1 hour to 4-5 days, sometimes 1 month for a tiny one. If the leak is on the low side and it is in the aluminum evaporator, it sucks water in the system and putting freon in won't work one day.
I tried to find the leak but did not find one... Then my leak detector tied.. :(
Excellent video! You covered all the necessary aspect of charging a HVA/C system. How can I convert ounces to PSI. I have a Samsung refrigerator that has a variable speed inverter compressor. I know is low and I want to charge it, but I do not know how much refrigerant is in the compressor. I want to add refrigerant and use the PSI pressure as a guide the amount necessary to top it off.
Refrigerators are critical charge. you will need to remove refrigerant and weigh in a full charge. You can not top off like an AC unit.
Never heard of a professional using an AC system sealer. Most service guys won't even hook up their equipment to a system full of sealer.
I have only done to 2 systems and had good results with both.
Kind of like radiator stop leak. Totally unprofessional.
Had a tech put sealer in an r22 system 15 years ago that had been going low every 2 years. Still running cold this season.
Try brazing two pieces of scrap tubing together and cut them apart and look at the mess on the inside of the tubing this must be purged
I thought the low side was supposed to show less than 1 psi on the gauge, because its sucking, or pulling a vacume basically. Meaning you had plenty of refrigerant. If it showed above that you were low.
On average 3 psi is where you want to be. 1 psi is low 5 is to high and can put stress on the appliance. The system is low if it is at 1 psi or pulling vacuum. If the appliances is pulling vacuum you should vaccum pumpe system and put freon in at labeled amount. Use uv additive to find leak if it's not obvious. Just fixed my freezer and added exact label amount of freon and was 3 psi exactly.
This Guy reminds me of the guy I Tried to train to install pellet stoves. He worked in the "Army" knew it all and a house almost burned down a house the day I wasn't there.
I appreciate the info , Thanks good video
Best video and explanation . Thank you
You need to increase your zinc in your diet to help stop the hair loss. Too much zinc and your hair thins. I'm taking zinc and my leg hair started growing again.
Why wouldn't u just clamp into the original fill line that is crimped off from factory fill??
yes, that would have been better. I can't remember, is that on the suction side only? could the extra tube ever be on the discharge side?
That's the only one I've ever used to suction and charge. Not a pro like u just filled a couple drink boxes. 134A only. Dust cleaner works well also. My personal one has a very slight leak so i soldered a fitting on the end of the crimped tube.
I have service port already soldered on a piece of copper which hangs from the compressor, can I add R134a directly on that port?
yes
KenTraining I connected a gauge to service port, and there is 20 psi when fridge is off and the same 20 psi when fridge is on and condenser is running, what can be the problem?
Andrei Zugravu
Sounds like the compressor is bad or complete blockage
43:50 Could you provide SOME nitrogen purge, if you connected a nitrogen line to the new service tee you are sweating in? With the Schraeder removed?
yes and that would have been a best practice.
Sir, whats the reason for low refrigerant charge
a leak
Trying to find the checklist you referred to.
go here kentraining.wixsite.com/kentraining/download-all-forms-here
What it compressor is off himself when is walking how to change that in remote
Thank you for the detailed information I really appreciate it sir
muy buen videos fuera mejor si fuera español gracias saludos desde Venezuela
Ken, pulling my hair out. The relay I am looking at with this borrowed fridge... Looks like nothing I've seen also the fan was not turning, I gave the compressor a little whack and it tried to turn on the fan started turning but now it's just clicking on and off. I noticed it also uses r12, am I going to just waste my time here. Second refrigerator in 3 months I've had to deal with. I took some pictures of the components attached to the compressor... It looks like a little cylinder about an inch long, with just this rubbery Brown oranges material which is connected to the single lead above the two bottom ones on the compressor. The other two have double sets of wires going to what I assume is the start relay, and the other one maybe is an overload heat sensor of some kind? That literally detects heat by being in contact with the side of the compressor. Ever deal with anything like that?
I have not, Sorry I could not have been more helpful.
Good Luck!
Yeah I figured out what it is, the relay part is $50, but I think I'm going to test resistance on the compressor this morning and make a very quick call whether to buy a new fridge or not. We have a lot of power fluctuation and quick power outages here but I don't understand why it's taking out my refrigerator so quickly. The voltage is correct on the plug, the circuit breakers are rated how they should be it's HUD certified 4 year old house. So if the amperage is over on a power spike it should trip the breaker. Maybe it's just bad luck.
@@cmdrefstathiusplacidus9003 I recommend you install the refrigerator to a power surge protector first then plug the surge protector into the wall outlet. That will give the appliance protection.
54 minutes and still seeing if its leaking, ever try using ultra violet reactant with a black light?
The rate of leak stuff is silly.
You know what really works ??? Yea 300 pisg across both side keeping the delta P net zero wow Serously
Thanks for the video is was great. Two questions one could you not connect the can of refrigerant up to the manifold gauge, second when did you get your pocket caliper from. Thanks again. Phillip
Phillip Groom you can charge directly into the unit. and I got the caliper from Grainger
Mr. Ken what happened to replacing filter dryer every time you open a system and while you where still there why didn't you install a shredded valve on high side too so you can be able to read your high side pressure.
your right I should have done that. Job was a while ago I dont remember the reasoning. time/space?
Only use low side to vacuum ! It will takes too long ! sometimes compressor worn out that is hard to judge! leaks is some thing hard to fix and takes too much time!
Well yes sometimes they can be hard to find, but it depends on the rate of the leaks,for eg. if ur jus losing up to 20 percent charge a year then , u can live with that, u might wanna use sealer - which i dont like to use, but if it a old unit that may be the best solution to your problem! Even brand new units something comes with leaks from the factory it can be a bad brazed joint of micro crack and they well stamp it PASSED, yet it has a leak especially on large units, remember the bigger the unit the move pontential for leaks! This is why large split unit have to be serviced year around because guess what they leak! But remember without leaks ur out of a JOB, so thank GODd for leaks if your a HVAC technician.
You inject dyes then check it later for leaks!
@@ericlee3057 i also avoid dyes they make a complete mess in the system.usally if the leak is massive with some time and patient , u should find it! Using dyes and sealer are a last resort.
are you a Chiller Technician?
Great video Ken, thanks for all the detail very helpful.
Why didn't you install both a high and low side schrader valve?
+Dave Villareale just to have as little potential leak sources as possible.
How sure are you that you evacuated the system properly?
Can you exactly tell us what T valve you used. first you vacuumed the system throught that valve and later you filled with R134a throught the same valve. is there a sort of shutter in the T-valve. or how did you shut it just before twisting the R134A hose of? i mean to say: the piercing valve has this small shutter inside which need to be turned open 2 turns when starting and needs to be closed before taken the hose of how did you close of the system again with the new (better) T-valve you soldered in the suction line. And i saw the one -direction valve inside the A31136 valve. so R134A can go in. but how did you vacuum it with the one direction valve in? i hope i am clear now ..
watch video again, I first added a tap valve and then charged with nitrogen through that same valve. Then I purged out the nitrogen and added a schrader valve with a tee connection, which is a much better valve compared to a tap valve. Then leak tested again, evacuate and charge with R134A.