I will feel more confident to refill my fridge/freezer after watching your detailled video. It's like having already the first experience, before the first jump into a new experience, crossed fingers... Big thank!
I usually just install piercing or saddle valve, add UV dye, add freon to +15psi on low side(for refrigerator only) and DONE in 30 min. I tell customer to call me when fridge get warm again. Typically it will get low on freon after one year. When customer call me again I will find a leak with UV flashlight and yellow glasses and do permanent repair. Thank you for good video!
Refrigeration guy by trade....decent, but don't be thinking you can get a very good reading on a pipe with an infrared thermometer. you will be way off if you take readings this way. strap a real pipe temp sensor onto the pipe to get an accurate reading.
Ken thanks for the great instructional video it's giving me the courage to take it one step further before I dump thousand plus dollars into a new refrigerator
The perfect measure of enough is the measuremnent 1/2 between the maximum and minimum, if we exceed that point, It is our ego at work, if we fall short then we are slackers. I like the way you think, and praise the passion you have for your Profession.
Ken next time use a saddle srader valve. We used them every time when tapping a line they solder on and are permanently soldered on without blowing the refrigerant charge. They save a lot of time. If I had one handy I would give you the part number. Good luck
@@KenTraining Thanks, Ken. This is great! Hmm. I thought you were using a refrigeration checklist like for a refrigerator or walk-in freezer. I see checklists for comfort cooling and ductwork.
@@KenTraining That’s ok. I’m in the process of creating my own list along with some refrigeration tips like letting the N2 pressure out of the system through the low side instead of pushing all the oil out of the receiver through the king valve!
3:19 - ANTI-CROSSTHREAD TIP: If you start by turning the bolt, nut, cap or screw with a right-handed thread up to one full turn to the left, until you feel it jump to the next thread before turning to the right, you'll never cross-thread a screw again. This works for ALL thread types: course, fine, wood, sheet metal, etc.
The lessons is very much appreciated, Thanks. My refrigerator is a Whirlpool, No frost single cabinet. Two questions #1 The spec on the back listed R134A (CH2 FCF3) 0.096kg is this the refrigerant capacity. #2 is there a sealant for the bullet piercing valve so as to assure there is no leak.
1l when you charged with nitrogen the first time it would've been a good time to check with soap and water all points, even your gauges. 2. It might be a good Idea to add the refrigerant while it is on the scale.
Very good not using leak seal only two things In a system is refrigerant oil and refrigerant please don't use the can it for cars only that's why it a most use a micro gauge you could see if the system has moisture or a leak if you pull down to 500 micro bank off which means turn off vacuum pump to see if micro reading rise because refrigerant cost $$$ to you and customer .
So if the leak is on the low side what do you think just entered the system. Let's think about that for a second. And most likely most fridges will have a leak in the evaporator due to acidic foods kept in them. Also those line taps are temporary a tee and shrader fitting should be brazed in as a permanent access port on both the suction and discharge lines along with the drier being changed. But first and foremost the leak needs to be located and repaired.
@@luvdogsandhorses Dude I would run circles around this guy it's actually quite entertaining watching these videos. If I showed him some of the work I do he wouldn't understand what I was working on. Lol
@@luvdogsandhorses Too funny why don't you read the manual or take a couple of training courses that's what the rest of do. No need to post videos. Oh and I personally have never changed an LG compressor. We install and work on alot of Mitsubishi and Daiken units and if you want to talk linear or variable technology I have installed and worked on alot of Turbocor applications both chiller and built up systems. Not sure what your background is. Recently installed a 64 head City Multi system with over 3000ft of piping and the list goes on.
Jeff Scanlan You claimed expertise not me I’m trying to learn Mostly need a extensive list of best practices for refrigerator sealed system repair One pet peeve I have is technicians skimping on known best practices Here’s one example for you In the HVAC world it’s pretty much a given that you can’t be sure you don’t have a leak with analog compound gauges in an hour (but technicians skip leaving pressure test in place which overlooks fixing the problem or knowing that it has been fixed ) I want to know what the consensus is on old compound gauges vs new (digital .1 psi) how long to leave each in place to be thorough Some other concerns Flushing with compressor change Possible oil contamination when not isolating vacuum pump properly etc I continue to look for answers but would like links and such to assist myself and other’s
If it’s slowly not cooling like it once did after 10/15! Years don’t worry too much about a leak if it was still cooling, just add some feron and keep checking temperature with a gauge Add as needed with temperature control set half way
Thanks for the guide. However 41degrees seems high for a fridge. It should be under 40 for food. Would that be adjusted by raising it to a 8 or 9? 41 is fine for a soda fridge but any meat or dairy should be under 40
current clamp on neutral will measure total current of appliance including lights and fans. clamp should be on line to compressor only to properly measure compressor running current.
My Kitchenaid fridge and freezer compartments are not getting cold. I replaced the power relay switch already. Compressor, fans and capacitor are working. Within 5 mins of the compressor turning on, ice starts building up on the evaporator tube where it connects with the capillary tube. Do I have a blockage or restriction there and if so how do I fix it? If not what else could it be?
if both your coils are clean and you have good air flow, then you may have a restriction. 1. pull the charge out and blow in nitrogen in the system to see if you can purge out. Its a lot of work and no guarranty on success. They make appliances today as disposable. I say if your refrigerant cycle is the problem then buy another refrigerator. If you don't mind working on it as training, then keep trying.
Ken, pulling my hair out. The relay I am looking at with this borrowed fridge... Looks like nothing I've seen also the fan was not turning, I gave the compressor a little whack and it tried to turn on the fan started turning but now it's just clicking on and off. I noticed it also uses r12, am I going to just waste my time here. Second refrigerator in 3 months I've had to deal with. I took some pictures of the components attached to the compressor... It looks like a little cylinder about an inch long, with just this rubbery Brown oranges material which is connected to the single lead above the two bottom ones on the compressor. The other two have double sets of wires going to what I assume is the start relay, and the other one maybe is an overload heat sensor of some kind? That literally detects heat by being in contact with the side of the compressor. Ever deal with anything like that?
Yeah I figured out what it is, the relay part is $50, but I think I'm going to test resistance on the compressor this morning and make a very quick call whether to buy a new fridge or not. We have a lot of power fluctuation and quick power outages here but I don't understand why it's taking out my refrigerator so quickly. The voltage is correct on the plug, the circuit breakers are rated how they should be it's HUD certified 4 year old house. So if the amperage is over on a power spike it should trip the breaker. Maybe it's just bad luck.
@@cmdrefstathiusplacidus9003 I recommend you install the refrigerator to a power surge protector first then plug the surge protector into the wall outlet. That will give the appliance protection.
Hello Ken i have aquestion I have Fridge Samsung french door and it has twin cooling Evaporator .When i turn it on, every things runing and working find but when compressor star got lound sound and after that sound came down like normal, compressor get warm , condenser get warm, condenser fan runing .after 2 hours only fridge get cold but not in deep cold just around 55 F degrees , and i check the freezer . evaporator on bottom did'nt get any cold at all. So what i need to do for checking some? Thanks
checked on the low pressor line show up at 50 psi, and already add haft of can freon R134A , compressor hotter, condenser hotter but the pressor show on metter still around 50 psi. What happen ?
Hey man, it sounds like compressor bad, I have a samsung and had the same problem. sounds like compressor going bad. mine is also twin cooling, first the freezer then fridge. pressures show good but adding more coolant dont help just makes matters worse. If the compressor sounds like a 4 cylinder motor with a valve tap it is history. 50 psi is very high when compressor is running. If your pressures do not change from off to running then you need to replace the compressor. Samsungs are notorius for failure. Mine is the quatro cool and I found a leak from manufacturer in the refrigerator upper evap coil. Be sure to check all fans and defrost circuits. I feel you pain, mine is only 4 yrs old and I had to replace evap fan, mother board and compressor. Samsung does not stand behind there products.
KenTraining I connected a gauge to service port, and there is 20 psi when fridge is off and the same 20 psi when fridge is on and condenser is running, what can be the problem?
Can you exactly tell us what T valve you used. first you vacuumed the system throught that valve and later you filled with R134a throught the same valve. is there a sort of shutter in the T-valve. or how did you shut it just before twisting the R134A hose of? i mean to say: the piercing valve has this small shutter inside which need to be turned open 2 turns when starting and needs to be closed before taken the hose of how did you close of the system again with the new (better) T-valve you soldered in the suction line. And i saw the one -direction valve inside the A31136 valve. so R134A can go in. but how did you vacuum it with the one direction valve in? i hope i am clear now ..
watch video again, I first added a tap valve and then charged with nitrogen through that same valve. Then I purged out the nitrogen and added a schrader valve with a tee connection, which is a much better valve compared to a tap valve. Then leak tested again, evacuate and charge with R134A.
Need help with my LG refrigerator my lights not coming on my water ice maker panel will not do anything or light up at all however the numbers 56 are lit up. What should I do? Ive only had this refrigerator is only a year in a half old.
Mr. Ken what happened to replacing filter dryer every time you open a system and while you where still there why didn't you install a shredded valve on high side too so you can be able to read your high side pressure.
That's the only one I've ever used to suction and charge. Not a pro like u just filled a couple drink boxes. 134A only. Dust cleaner works well also. My personal one has a very slight leak so i soldered a fitting on the end of the crimped tube.
In your opinion would there be a benefit to installing an access valve on the high side between the compressor and the condenser? I'm looking at these refrigerators and see a similarity between them and automotive A/C systems.
Excellent video! You covered all the necessary aspect of charging a HVA/C system. How can I convert ounces to PSI. I have a Samsung refrigerator that has a variable speed inverter compressor. I know is low and I want to charge it, but I do not know how much refrigerant is in the compressor. I want to add refrigerant and use the PSI pressure as a guide the amount necessary to top it off.
I'm a DIY working on a 22YO GE Profile side by side which died in this CA heat wave. Found the condenser fan dead and the defrost control intermittent, fix it all but the refer side is now having trouble reaching 37deg during hot days ( drifts to 42) , the freezer is fine at below zero with both sides temp control crank to the max. During my troubleshooting I noticed that the compressor was pulling low amps , 40% low. I considered that that might mean a worn-out compressor. But Ken, i heard you say your Coke refer. was also low at 1 amp (I saw the name plate at 3.2 amps) . Is low compressor amps/draw an indication of a low refrigerant charge?
Yes it can be an indication of low charge and the compressor is not working 100%. because refrigerators are critical charge, I believe the only way to confirm this is to pull charge and weigh it. I do want to admit, I don't work on Refrigerators that often to call myself an expert. Let me know how you make out.
after welding the valve in you have a mess on the inside not cleaned out wont the debris wind up in the small liquid tube and block that line, how do you start with a pristine system after you welded that valve in?? or is the debris inside not going to affect the system, can a high pressure filter be install ahead of the small line so it wont block after a repair or welding is done without cleaning the system ??
I thought the low side was supposed to show less than 1 psi on the gauge, because its sucking, or pulling a vacume basically. Meaning you had plenty of refrigerant. If it showed above that you were low.
On average 3 psi is where you want to be. 1 psi is low 5 is to high and can put stress on the appliance. The system is low if it is at 1 psi or pulling vacuum. If the appliances is pulling vacuum you should vaccum pumpe system and put freon in at labeled amount. Use uv additive to find leak if it's not obvious. Just fixed my freezer and added exact label amount of freon and was 3 psi exactly.
Great question, Answer = I can only assume the engineers that designed the formula took that into consideration. I only use it as a last ditch try before unit replacement. I have used this product on a few units without any issues. One of the units was done about 4 years ago and is still running without a leak today!!!
@@KenTraining well that's very surprising & amazing. Does it actually stop leaks good then or have you needed to refill them still but longer intervals?
@@naturestrail2296 In my case it stopped the leak on 2 different systems with only 1 application for each of the systems. Follow the cans instructions and use the correct can for your system.
Poor repair techniques. When you remove your manifold, you lost all vacuum. Invest in a T connection, a micron gauge, a core moral tool (doubles as a valve), and 30 lb jug of 134a, Nylog, and hoses with valves. Hook up and vacuum to 500 microns (300 if your pump will do it). In that vacuum, you vacuum all the way to the 134a jug as well; hence the T on the service hose to vacuum and cylinder. Then you valve off the micron gauge and your manifold, and the high-side and low-side hose at the service ports, and your vacuum. With the can upright, you open the cylinder, service hose, low-side manifold and high-side manifold... and this brings vapor up to the service ports on the vending machine without letting any flow into the machine. Now you weigh the jug for its before weight, Next, you flip the cylinder upside-down, then open the high-side manifold to charge the hose with mostly liquid up to the high-side port and open the high-side at the service port. Stop at 80% your charge closing it at the machine. Flip tank upright close cylinder, and start machine leaving the high-side manifold open but shut at service port of the machine (allows you to get the liquid out of the hose in next step). .., slowly open low-side at machine... then slowly crack low-side manifold... all liquid in high-side hose will flash and go into machine... leaving just vapor in all hoses like it was when you weighed tank... using cylinder upright re-open cylinder and open low-side port on machine then feed in to 100% charge by scale u dear jug. Close all valves. Now if you want a high-side reading you would shut high-side manifold and open service port to get high-side reading, but liquid would enter the hose... you would need to close it at the machine and put it back through the low-side manifold. Regardless, everything should be closed including the cylinder and only vapor in all hoses when you reach 100% charge just as your first weight. You should have the quick disconnect that allow you to unscrew before breaking the connections at the service port of the vending machine. Otherwise you loose at least an ounce disconnecting. If you do this, you have absolutely no air and factory-perfect charge when done. Place on brass service caps either rubber gasketed or tapper type. Use small dab of Nylog on each regardless. Brass caps hand right then like a 1/16” inch by pliers just to compress rubber. If taper caps, they are basically a flare fitting. Tighten caps by pliers until quite snug.
Most informative. Could you elaborate upon "You should have the quick disconnect that allow you to unscrew before breaking the connections at the service port "?
There's no way you lose an ounce disconnecting... or even a half ounce... unless you're irrationally slow at unscrewing the connections. Most of what you said would get me fired from my company for taking too long, and needing too many expensive non-necessities. This guy did a pretty good job. A few hiccups, but not all of us can be perfect Super-Techs like you.
A pro who really knows sealed systems would never leave access valves on a critically charged system. Use the process tubes and pinch them off and seal with a braze, just like the factory did. It’s no longer a hermetically sealed system, Iike it came from the factory
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Then you don’t know what you’re doing then. Anytime the system is opened to atmospheric pressure it should have a new drier installed because it critical to remove moisture that entered the system with the air. It’s not as critical in air conditioning as it is in refrigeration.I take it you don’t do this for a living or never had proper training on refrigeration systems. I’ve only done this for 30 years.
Jodster Jamster you are correct. It’s funny you can tell who knows what their talking about by simple questions like this these guys are showing their ignorance about refrigeration.
Never leave an access valve on a sealed system. Use the process tubes(like the factory did). That’s the reason they call it a critically charged sealed system.
I've watched 3 of these fridge recharge videos. One said like 3 psi, one said like 30 psi and this one was like 62 psi on the low side. Which is it??? I have a GE pfs22sisbss
The pressure depends upon the refrigerant used, for refrigeration you want a coil temperature about 15F degrees below the desired box temperature, so a 40F box would have a 25F coil at the tail end of the cycle just before it shuts down, upon a hot pull down like a load of food to freeze the low side can be very high from a high load on the evap coil, the temperatures are what really matters then the pressures are determined by the refrigerant used.
Closer to 3. Look at a PT chart for 134A at 62psi. That’s what the refrigerant in the evaporator is boiling at. Ask yourself if that would get you down to - 4 or whatever temp you want in your freezer.
Please advise is warm (not hot) compressor a sign there is insufficient amount of coolant? Mine is hot.. but I was advise to top the coolant up.. I am trying to find a problem in my side by side fridge freezer as while fridge one works fine, the freezer evaporator is only 1/4th frosted and so food does not freeze. Everything seems working fine, there is no sign of leakage and I'm puzzled..
I am not sure how hot the compressor runs with normal refrigerant amount but the compressor should not be over 225f. I believe the oil breaks down above that. these units hold very little refrigerant, you may not notice a leak.
Hmm....at 5:38 in the specs the freezer should have 162 psi on low side.....but at 1:12:29 when you measure the pressure you only have 18 psi.......and 70 psi alfter you charged the system. How do you explain this improperly values???
your question is a very good one. First of all, this was one of the very few refrigerators I have worked on. Because I weighed in the charge is the reason I did not charge according to the data plate. I freely admit I don't consider myself and expert on refrigerators. in your experience, should I have charged until reaching the design low side pressures?
on further thought, I believe that those pressures on data plate are the design maximum test pressures not the design run pressures. What do you think?
At 18psi your evaporator saturation temperature is 20 degrees. At 162 psi your evaporator would be 116 degrees. Nameplate pressure rating is maximum TEST pressure value.
@@KenTraining Yeah ken u should go to school and do a complete HVAC traning. That is the test pressure! when u go to school it open up your eyes to what really going n and why! when properly trained you also know exactly what your doing! Proper training is the key!
You HAVE to add a few gallons of water for a load on the unit besides the air inside of it, if you do not have a load in the thing good luck trying to do what you are doing.
Hi Ken, in my refrigerator, the piercing valve is on the process tube (which is crimped at the end). How does one charge the refrigerator through that?
You are not supposed to leave access valves on a sealed system. Use a piercing valve on the end of the process tube, before the pinch, and recover any refrigerant. When your done with everything, pinch off the process tube(they make a special tool), remove the access valve and braze the end of the process tube up.
My fridge guy says the leak is inaccessible and can't be fixed. Can I try this Freeon with Stop Leak? Sub Zero auto A/C Recharger Refrigerant R-134a with Stop Leak. Seals Leaks in Orings, Gaskets and Hoses. The sticker in my fridge says it takes R-134a.
i need to know the hi and low pressures to answer. the system needs to equalize in order to allow compressor to start. you may need a new start capacitor and or a hard start kit to make the compressor start.
When you charge these system couple way to charge these system .Don't nameplate charge because the system .You put in different drier most of the time can't read it nameplate charge . With cooler off charge liquid in the high side and watch the low side it should rise if not cap restriction Turn the system on watch the pressure as box gets colder pressure sure drop and take running amp off the compressor you might have to put little more refrigerant in low side watch the suction line and pressure if it frost too much refrigerant take some out in till it backs off watch your amp it sure be running under the running amp .R134a low Side sure be running at 20# or less the high side 150# or less. This is how is done because you will be repairing this unit again on free spend the money do it right the first time .Most the time the condenser get plugged because customer never PM cooler it run hot and you will get wax or oil breaks down and on the cap tube gets plugged and the compressor
@@KenTraining if it hits the compressor it can damage it. If it gets too close just bleed a little out. We used to cheat the system when just a little was needed, we'd skip the guages and add a little at a time and watch the frost pattern.
The charge should be weighed in. The frost line will vary as the box comes down to temp. We always charged until The frost line was just past the evaporator, or at the exit of the cabinet.
If you do not find and fix the leak, it will not work for long-1 hour to 4-5 days, sometimes 1 month for a tiny one. If the leak is on the low side and it is in the aluminum evaporator, it sucks water in the system and putting freon in won't work one day.
I will feel more confident to refill my fridge/freezer after watching your detailled video. It's like having already the first experience, before the first jump into a new experience, crossed fingers... Big thank!
I usually just install piercing or saddle valve, add UV dye, add freon to +15psi on low side(for refrigerator only) and DONE in 30 min. I tell customer to call me when fridge get warm again. Typically it will get low on freon after one year. When customer call me again I will find a leak with UV flashlight and yellow glasses and do permanent repair. Thank you for good video!
Wow that’s a dedicated service tech. Wish I could find one that knowledgeable.
You have done a wonderful job we need more talented people like you ,I must thank you so so much.
This is the best tutorial I've seen on troubleshooting these types of coolers. Thanks you very much!
Really thats so sad
@@jimanderson2518 post a link to yours then.
@@jimanderson2518 So are you. Step up!
Ken ; unbelievable video with may great tips of how to service refrigiration unit that is low on R-134.】
You are the master at this! Thank you for the badass video and masterful knowledge.
Refrigeration guy by trade....decent, but don't be thinking you can get a very good reading on a pipe with an infrared thermometer. you will be way off if you take readings this way. strap a real pipe temp sensor onto the pipe to get an accurate reading.
Ken thanks for the great instructional video it's giving me the courage to take it one step further before I dump thousand plus dollars into a new refrigerator
Learned a lot from this video. Some unconventional tricks too.
Thank you, you sure know how to explain things as you are working on, very well invested my more than an hour time watching the video.
The perfect measure of enough is the measuremnent 1/2 between the maximum and minimum, if we exceed that point, It is our ego at work, if we fall short then we are slackers. I like the way you think, and praise the passion you have for your Profession.
Ken, You killed it... That was the greatest HVAC repair video Ever.. So thorough and complete.. You should be teaching a HVAC class....BRAVO
Very Kind. Thank you
@@KenTraining that was a super great video right here! And, what brand and model (of vacuum pump) that you’re using in this video?
Hi Ken proper temperature for Coca Cola cooler is 38 degrees for consumption, from a Coke Tech.
Very good trainer
Ken next time use a saddle srader valve. We used them every time when tapping a line they solder on and are permanently soldered on without blowing the refrigerant charge. They save a lot of time. If I had one handy I would give you the part number. Good luck
Thank you for your Passionate Educational video. Gonna download it! And share it as well
Thanks for sharing and taking time to explain the details great video.
0:30 - That’s quite a comprehensive looking checklist can you explain the different items or post a copy?
go here for all my forms kentraining.wixsite.com/kentraining/download-all-forms-here
@@KenTraining Thanks, Ken. This is great!
Hmm. I thought you were using a refrigeration checklist like for a refrigerator or walk-in freezer. I see checklists for comfort cooling and ductwork.
@@garypoplin4599 Sorry, I only have 1 check list. Most of my work is AC and not refrigeration.
@@KenTraining That’s ok. I’m in the process of creating my own list along with some refrigeration tips like letting the N2 pressure out of the system through the low side instead of pushing all the oil out of the receiver through the king valve!
I noticed you did not check temps on both side's of the drier that could also show a vacuum reading which could show a plugged drier just saying
3:19 - ANTI-CROSSTHREAD TIP: If you start by turning the bolt, nut, cap or screw with a right-handed thread up to one full turn to the left, until you feel it jump to the next thread before turning to the right, you'll never cross-thread a screw again. This works for ALL thread types: course, fine, wood, sheet metal, etc.
Pro tip, get this man a cold beer!
Grandpa taught me this when I was around 6. Lololol
I feel a really fine steel wool works good for polishing the copper tube.
43:50 Could you provide SOME nitrogen purge, if you connected a nitrogen line to the new service tee you are sweating in? With the Schraeder removed?
yes and that would have been a best practice.
The lessons is very much appreciated, Thanks. My refrigerator is a Whirlpool, No frost single cabinet. Two questions #1 The spec on the back listed R134A (CH2 FCF3) 0.096kg is this the refrigerant capacity. #2 is there a sealant for the bullet piercing valve so as to assure there is no leak.
1. that appears to the the amount of refrigerant. 2. you could add a stop leak product BUT you are far better off changing the piercing valve out.
1l when you charged with nitrogen the first time it would've been a good time to check with soap and water all points, even your gauges.
2. It might be a good Idea to add the refrigerant while it is on the scale.
Very good not using leak seal only two things In a system is refrigerant oil and refrigerant please don't use the can it for cars only that's why it a most use a micro gauge you could see if the system has moisture or a leak if you pull down to 500 micro bank off which means turn off vacuum pump to see if micro reading rise because refrigerant cost $$$ to you and customer .
This is one of the best videos on refrigeration that I have seen here on TH-cam, thank you for posting it Ken!
So if the leak is on the low side what do you think just entered the system. Let's think about that for a second. And most likely most fridges will have a leak in the evaporator due to acidic foods kept in them. Also those line taps are temporary a tee and shrader fitting should be brazed in as a permanent access port on both the suction and discharge lines along with the drier being changed. But first and foremost the leak needs to be located and repaired.
Jeff Scanlan
You showed him with all the videos on your page
😂
@@luvdogsandhorses Dude I would run circles around this guy it's actually quite entertaining watching these videos. If I showed him some of the work I do he wouldn't understand what I was working on. Lol
Jeff Scanlan
Where are your videos posted
Really want to learn everything that should be done for an LG linear compressor changeout
@@luvdogsandhorses Too funny why don't you read the manual or take a couple of training courses that's what the rest of do. No need to post videos. Oh and I personally have never changed an LG compressor. We install and work on alot of Mitsubishi and Daiken units and if you want to talk linear or variable technology I have installed and worked on alot of Turbocor applications both chiller and built up systems. Not sure what your background is. Recently installed a 64 head City Multi system with over 3000ft of piping and the list goes on.
Jeff Scanlan
You claimed expertise not me
I’m trying to learn
Mostly need a extensive list of best practices for refrigerator sealed system repair
One pet peeve I have is technicians skimping on known best practices
Here’s one example for you
In the HVAC world it’s pretty much a given that you can’t be sure you don’t have a leak with analog compound gauges in an hour (but technicians skip leaving pressure test in place which overlooks fixing the problem or knowing that it has been fixed )
I want to know what the consensus is on old compound gauges vs new (digital .1 psi) how long to leave each in place to be thorough
Some other concerns
Flushing with compressor change
Possible oil contamination when not isolating vacuum pump properly etc
I continue to look for answers but would like links and such to assist myself and other’s
Vacuum gauge works great instead of compound gauges. Nitrogen pressure changes a tad with ambient temperature.
Really Good Job, Thanks for time
why didn't you separate the evaporator from the condenser?
If it’s slowly not cooling like it once did after 10/15!
Years don’t worry too much about a leak if it was still cooling, just add some feron and keep checking temperature with a gauge
Add as needed with temperature control set half way
Thanks for the guide. However 41degrees seems high for a fridge. It should be under 40 for food. Would that be adjusted by raising it to a 8 or 9? 41 is fine for a soda fridge but any meat or dairy should be under 40
Its a Beverage cooler.
This is an excellent video thank you so much I did learn a lot can you do something about deep freezer
I will try. Thanks for subscribing.
50 years ago we poured Christie dry gas in the charging hose shake it out then charge the frige never had cap freeze up or dryer added.🤔
current clamp on neutral will measure total current of appliance including lights and fans. clamp should be on line to compressor only to properly measure compressor running current.
you are correct, i was just trying to make my job as easy as possible for me.
My Kitchenaid fridge and freezer compartments are not getting cold. I replaced the power relay switch already. Compressor, fans and capacitor are working. Within 5 mins of the compressor turning on, ice starts building up on the evaporator tube where it connects with the capillary tube. Do I have a blockage or restriction there and if so how do I fix it? If not what else could it be?
if both your coils are clean and you have good air flow, then you may have a restriction. 1. pull the charge out and blow in nitrogen in the system to see if you can purge out. Its a lot of work and no guarranty on success. They make appliances today as disposable. I say if your refrigerant cycle is the problem then buy another refrigerator. If you don't mind working on it as training, then keep trying.
@@KenTraining thanks
Sir, whats the reason for low refrigerant charge
a leak
Ken, pulling my hair out. The relay I am looking at with this borrowed fridge... Looks like nothing I've seen also the fan was not turning, I gave the compressor a little whack and it tried to turn on the fan started turning but now it's just clicking on and off. I noticed it also uses r12, am I going to just waste my time here. Second refrigerator in 3 months I've had to deal with. I took some pictures of the components attached to the compressor... It looks like a little cylinder about an inch long, with just this rubbery Brown oranges material which is connected to the single lead above the two bottom ones on the compressor. The other two have double sets of wires going to what I assume is the start relay, and the other one maybe is an overload heat sensor of some kind? That literally detects heat by being in contact with the side of the compressor. Ever deal with anything like that?
I have not, Sorry I could not have been more helpful.
Good Luck!
Yeah I figured out what it is, the relay part is $50, but I think I'm going to test resistance on the compressor this morning and make a very quick call whether to buy a new fridge or not. We have a lot of power fluctuation and quick power outages here but I don't understand why it's taking out my refrigerator so quickly. The voltage is correct on the plug, the circuit breakers are rated how they should be it's HUD certified 4 year old house. So if the amperage is over on a power spike it should trip the breaker. Maybe it's just bad luck.
@@cmdrefstathiusplacidus9003 I recommend you install the refrigerator to a power surge protector first then plug the surge protector into the wall outlet. That will give the appliance protection.
Hello Ken
i have aquestion
I have Fridge Samsung french door and it has twin cooling Evaporator .When i turn it on, every things runing and working find but when compressor star got lound sound and after that sound came down like normal, compressor get warm , condenser get warm, condenser fan runing .after 2 hours only fridge get cold but not in deep cold just around 55 F degrees , and i check the freezer . evaporator on bottom did'nt get any cold at all.
So what i need to do for checking some?
Thanks
check refrigeration pressures.
checked on the low pressor line show up at 50 psi, and already add haft of can freon R134A , compressor hotter, condenser hotter but the pressor show on metter still around 50 psi. What happen ?
Hey man, it sounds like compressor bad, I have a samsung and had the same problem. sounds like compressor going bad. mine is also twin cooling, first the freezer then fridge. pressures show good but adding more coolant dont help just makes matters worse. If the compressor sounds like a 4 cylinder motor with a valve tap it is history. 50 psi is very high when compressor is running. If your pressures do not change from off to running then you need to replace the compressor. Samsungs are notorius for failure. Mine is the quatro cool and I found a leak from manufacturer in the refrigerator upper evap coil. Be sure to check all fans and defrost circuits. I feel you pain, mine is only 4 yrs old and I had to replace evap fan, mother board and compressor. Samsung does not stand behind there products.
U need a new compressor
I have service port already soldered on a piece of copper which hangs from the compressor, can I add R134a directly on that port?
yes
KenTraining I connected a gauge to service port, and there is 20 psi when fridge is off and the same 20 psi when fridge is on and condenser is running, what can be the problem?
Andrei Zugravu
Sounds like the compressor is bad or complete blockage
Very nice video. Keep them comings.
Can you exactly tell us what T valve you used. first you vacuumed the system throught that valve and later you filled with R134a throught the same valve. is there a sort of shutter in the T-valve. or how did you shut it just before twisting the R134A hose of? i mean to say: the piercing valve has this small shutter inside which need to be turned open 2 turns when starting and needs to be closed before taken the hose of how did you close of the system again with the new (better) T-valve you soldered in the suction line. And i saw the one -direction valve inside the A31136 valve. so R134A can go in. but how did you vacuum it with the one direction valve in? i hope i am clear now ..
watch video again, I first added a tap valve and then charged with nitrogen through that same valve. Then I purged out the nitrogen and added a schrader valve with a tee connection, which is a much better valve compared to a tap valve. Then leak tested again, evacuate and charge with R134A.
Need help with my LG refrigerator my lights not coming on my water ice maker panel will not do anything or light up at all however the numbers 56 are lit up. What should I do? Ive only had this refrigerator is only a year in a half old.
I would call LG Tech support and ask what code 56 means.
Thanks for your time ken ,you brought out some interesting questions for others to learn from.
Thanks for sharing such an informative video! I subscribed
Mr. Ken what happened to replacing filter dryer every time you open a system and while you where still there why didn't you install a shredded valve on high side too so you can be able to read your high side pressure.
your right I should have done that. Job was a while ago I dont remember the reasoning. time/space?
When recharging, should the can be turned upside down?
I do so I can charge a little faster. But you have to watch for any liquid slugging.
Why wouldn't u just clamp into the original fill line that is crimped off from factory fill??
yes, that would have been better. I can't remember, is that on the suction side only? could the extra tube ever be on the discharge side?
That's the only one I've ever used to suction and charge. Not a pro like u just filled a couple drink boxes. 134A only. Dust cleaner works well also. My personal one has a very slight leak so i soldered a fitting on the end of the crimped tube.
In your opinion would there be a benefit to installing an access valve on the high side between the compressor and the condenser? I'm looking at these refrigerators and see a similarity between them and automotive A/C systems.
Excellent video! You covered all the necessary aspect of charging a HVA/C system. How can I convert ounces to PSI. I have a Samsung refrigerator that has a variable speed inverter compressor. I know is low and I want to charge it, but I do not know how much refrigerant is in the compressor. I want to add refrigerant and use the PSI pressure as a guide the amount necessary to top it off.
Refrigerators are critical charge. you will need to remove refrigerant and weigh in a full charge. You can not top off like an AC unit.
I'm a DIY working on a 22YO GE Profile side by side which died in this CA heat wave. Found the condenser fan dead and the defrost control intermittent, fix it all but the refer side is now having trouble reaching 37deg during hot days ( drifts to 42) , the freezer is fine at below zero with both sides temp control crank to the max. During my troubleshooting I noticed that the compressor was pulling low amps , 40% low. I considered that that might mean a worn-out compressor. But Ken, i heard you say your Coke refer. was also low at 1 amp (I saw the name plate at 3.2 amps) . Is low compressor amps/draw an indication of a low refrigerant charge?
Yes it can be an indication of low charge and the compressor is not working 100%. because refrigerators are critical charge, I believe the only way to confirm this is to pull charge and weigh it. I do want to admit, I don't work on Refrigerators that often to call myself an expert. Let me know how you make out.
24:10 - Where’s your scale? (Oops. Guess I could have watched longer to learn that you already weighed the tank before piping in!)
use leakloc or nylog instead of plumbing teflon tape on your analog gauge to prevent leaks
never use leakloc on refrigeration system Or tape.
Amazing Video!!! Thanks very much for helping me to see how a craftsman handles a real world job. Again fascinating! Thanks.
I didn’t see it or noticed it but did he Bleed the air out of the holes from the line
after welding the valve in you have a mess on the inside not cleaned out wont the debris
wind up in the small liquid tube and block that line, how do you start with a pristine system
after you welded that valve in?? or is the debris inside not going to affect the system, can
a high pressure filter be install ahead of the small line so it wont block after a repair or welding is done without cleaning the system ??
You don't need to worry if you use nitrogen flow while brazing. Nitrogen prevent oxides in the pipe forming
Why didn't you install both a high and low side schrader valve?
+Dave Villareale just to have as little potential leak sources as possible.
How sure are you that you evacuated the system properly?
Great and practical video!
Hey Ken, next time you should weigh the can with the adapter and hose, I think that you over filled it a bit
+Ricardo Nunez good comments, Thank you.
No need to measure the tubing. grab the adapters for the tap and use the one that fits snug on the tube you want to pierce.
I thought the low side was supposed to show less than 1 psi on the gauge, because its sucking, or pulling a vacume basically. Meaning you had plenty of refrigerant. If it showed above that you were low.
On average 3 psi is where you want to be. 1 psi is low 5 is to high and can put stress on the appliance. The system is low if it is at 1 psi or pulling vacuum. If the appliances is pulling vacuum you should vaccum pumpe system and put freon in at labeled amount. Use uv additive to find leak if it's not obvious. Just fixed my freezer and added exact label amount of freon and was 3 psi exactly.
How does super seal keep from clogging the orifice?
Great question, Answer = I can only assume the engineers that designed the formula took that into consideration. I only use it as a last ditch try before unit replacement. I have used this product on a few units without any issues. One of the units was done about 4 years ago and is still running without a leak today!!!
@@KenTraining well that's very surprising & amazing. Does it actually stop leaks good then or have you needed to refill them still but longer intervals?
@@naturestrail2296 In my case it stopped the leak on 2 different systems with only 1 application for each of the systems. Follow the cans instructions and use the correct can for your system.
@@KenTraining thanks for the reassurance
What it compressor is off himself when is walking how to change that in remote
Couldn't U use the compressor to suck in r134
Poor repair techniques. When you remove your manifold, you lost all vacuum. Invest in a T connection, a micron gauge, a core moral tool (doubles as a valve), and 30 lb jug of 134a, Nylog, and hoses with valves. Hook up and vacuum to 500 microns (300 if your pump will do it). In that vacuum, you vacuum all the way to the 134a jug as well; hence the T on the service hose to vacuum and cylinder. Then you valve off the micron gauge and your manifold, and the high-side and low-side hose at the service ports, and your vacuum. With the can upright, you open the cylinder, service hose, low-side manifold and high-side manifold... and this brings vapor up to the service ports on the vending machine without letting any flow into the machine. Now you weigh the jug for its before weight, Next, you flip the cylinder upside-down, then open the high-side manifold to charge the hose with mostly liquid up to the high-side port and open the high-side at the service port. Stop at 80% your charge closing it at the machine. Flip tank upright close cylinder, and start machine leaving the high-side manifold open but shut at service port of the machine (allows you to get the liquid out of the hose in next step). .., slowly open low-side at machine... then slowly crack low-side manifold... all liquid in high-side hose will flash and go into machine... leaving just vapor in all hoses like it was when you weighed tank... using cylinder upright re-open cylinder and open low-side port on machine then feed in to 100% charge by scale u dear jug. Close all valves. Now if you want a high-side reading you would shut high-side manifold and open service port to get high-side reading, but liquid would enter the hose... you would need to close it at the machine and put it back through the low-side manifold. Regardless, everything should be closed including the cylinder and only vapor in all hoses when you reach 100% charge just as your first weight. You should have the quick disconnect that allow you to unscrew before breaking the connections at the service port of the vending machine. Otherwise you loose at least an ounce disconnecting. If you do this, you have absolutely no air and factory-perfect charge when done. Place on brass service caps either rubber gasketed or tapper type. Use small dab of Nylog on each regardless. Brass caps hand right then like a 1/16” inch by pliers just to compress rubber. If taper caps, they are basically a flare fitting. Tighten caps by pliers until quite snug.
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Most informative. Could you elaborate upon "You should have the quick disconnect that allow you to unscrew before breaking the connections at the service port "?
There's no way you lose an ounce disconnecting... or even a half ounce... unless you're irrationally slow at unscrewing the connections. Most of what you said would get me fired from my company for taking too long, and needing too many expensive non-necessities. This guy did a pretty good job. A few hiccups, but not all of us can be perfect Super-Techs like you.
A pro who really knows sealed systems would never leave access valves on a critically charged system. Use the process tubes and pinch them off and seal with a braze, just like the factory did. It’s no longer a hermetically sealed system, Iike it came from the factory
why was the dryer not changed
Because no major component was replaced.
caleb dale yes you should replace the drier whenever you open a sealed system regardless of replacing something or not.
not true. i only replace driers when major work is being done.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Then you don’t know what you’re doing then. Anytime the system is opened to atmospheric pressure it should have a new drier installed because it critical to remove moisture that entered the system with the air. It’s not as critical in air conditioning as it is in refrigeration.I take it you don’t do this for a living or never had proper training on refrigeration systems. I’ve only done this for 30 years.
Jodster Jamster you are correct. It’s funny you can tell who knows what their talking about by simple questions like this these guys are showing their ignorance about refrigeration.
You Need A Schrader tool, Robinair 18560 Valve Core Remover/Installer
Replace Filter/Drier with a Schrader Access Core Valve Built-in
I like this tip and will do so in the future.
@@KenTraining Any of you guys have a link?
@@NickFarrow try this / www.supplyhouse.com/Emerson-Flow-Controls-065965-3-8-ODF-EK-163S-Series-Liquid-Line-Filter-Drier-16-Cubic-Inches
Never leave an access valve on a sealed system. Use the process tubes(like the factory did). That’s the reason they call it a critically charged sealed system.
Very good knowledge, I can’t imagine having the latest technology available, but wondering the profitability to the company
I've watched 3 of these fridge recharge videos. One said like 3 psi, one said like 30 psi and this one was like 62 psi on the low side. Which is it??? I have a GE pfs22sisbss
I cant confirm the low side psi BUT I can confirm the charge. I would remove current charge, evacuate all and recharge by weighing in.
That will work.
The pressure depends upon the refrigerant used, for refrigeration you want a coil temperature about 15F degrees below the desired box temperature, so a 40F box would have a 25F coil at the tail end of the cycle just before it shuts down, upon a hot pull down like a load of food to freeze the low side can be very high from a high load on the evap coil, the temperatures are what really matters then the pressures are determined by the refrigerant used.
Closer to 3. Look at a PT chart for 134A at 62psi. That’s what the refrigerant in the evaporator is boiling at. Ask yourself if that would get you down to - 4 or whatever temp you want in your freezer.
fully excellent ...thank you
Please advise is warm (not hot) compressor a sign there is insufficient amount of coolant?
Mine is hot.. but I was advise to top the coolant up..
I am trying to find a problem in my side by side fridge freezer as while fridge one works fine, the freezer evaporator is only 1/4th frosted and so food does not freeze. Everything seems working fine, there is no sign of leakage and I'm puzzled..
I am not sure how hot the compressor runs with normal refrigerant amount but the compressor should not be over 225f. I believe the oil breaks down above that. these units hold very little refrigerant, you may not notice a leak.
+KenTraining Thank you for your answer Ken
Hmm....at 5:38 in the specs the freezer should have 162 psi on low side.....but at 1:12:29 when you measure the pressure you only have 18 psi.......and 70 psi alfter you charged the system. How do you explain this improperly values???
your question is a very good one. First of all, this was one of the very few refrigerators I have worked on. Because I weighed in the charge is the reason I did not charge according to the data plate. I freely admit I don't consider myself and expert on refrigerators. in your experience, should I have charged until reaching the design low side pressures?
on further thought, I believe that those pressures on data plate are the design maximum test pressures not the design run pressures. What do you think?
Those are test pressures. Have nothing to do with charge.
At 18psi your evaporator saturation temperature is 20 degrees.
At 162 psi your evaporator would be 116 degrees.
Nameplate pressure rating is maximum TEST pressure value.
@@KenTraining Yeah ken u should go to school and do a complete HVAC traning. That is the test pressure! when u go to school it open up your eyes to what really going n and why! when properly trained you also know exactly what your doing! Proper training is the key!
You HAVE to add a few gallons of water for a load on the unit besides the air inside of it, if you do not have a load in the thing good luck trying to do what you are doing.
Hi Ken, in my refrigerator, the piercing valve is on the process tube (which is crimped at the end). How does one charge the refrigerator through that?
You are not supposed to leave access valves on a sealed system. Use a piercing valve on the end of the process tube, before the pinch, and recover any refrigerant. When your done with everything, pinch off the process tube(they make a special tool), remove the access valve and braze the end of the process tube up.
Never weld only suction without a high side port to see if cap tube maybe stopped up. Most all gauge leak.
Hello, if you were to add the leak stop, in your case the Super Seal how much would you add for such a small system? Thank you
I would follow the cans instructions but if I remember correctly, it was the entire can.
@@KenTraining Thank you for the reply!
My fridge guy says the leak is inaccessible and can't be fixed. Can I try this Freeon with Stop Leak? Sub Zero auto A/C Recharger Refrigerant R-134a with Stop Leak. Seals Leaks in Orings, Gaskets and Hoses. The sticker in my fridge says it takes R-134a.
why not, your tech is already condemning the fridge. Your only loss is the money and time.
Another well put together video. Thanks for taking the time and effort.
BenP83
Hi Ken great video!. had a ref compressor when turn on it draws high current that the Over-Load-Protector tripped. Anything we can do to correct it?
i need to know the hi and low pressures to answer. the system needs to equalize in order to allow compressor to start. you may need a new start capacitor and or a hard start kit to make the compressor start.
I thought you were supposed to charge the system with the refrigerant cans of 134A held upside down (inverted)?
Yes, I should have charged as a liquid.
why not use stub coming off the compressor to charge unit and use 134A gauges
yes, I should have done that.
When you charge these system couple way to charge these system .Don't nameplate charge because the system .You put in different drier most of the time can't read it nameplate charge . With cooler off charge liquid in the high side and watch the low side it should rise if not cap restriction Turn the system on watch the pressure as box gets colder pressure sure drop and take running amp off the compressor you might have to put little more refrigerant in low side watch the suction line and pressure if it frost too much refrigerant take some out in till it backs off watch your amp it sure be running under the running amp .R134a low Side sure be running at 20# or less the high side 150# or less. This is how is done because you will be repairing this unit again on free spend the money do it right the first time .Most the time the condenser get plugged because customer never PM cooler it run hot and you will get wax or oil breaks down and on the cap tube gets plugged and the compressor
Hi on the soda machine what are Ideal suction pressures for a 40 Degree Box temperature?
Not good to run with a negative reading, will damage the compressor
Add a tad to bring up to 20 at least and then change as needed
What direction the fan spins
Appreciate the video Ken. If you run across something like this again put some R22 in there for your leak test. The H10 will work much better.
I do not use tapping vaves rather use a shrouder valve..
Great job!
And although you did add a little too much, did you check the frost pattern on the line to make sure it didn't get within 3 inches of the compressor?
I did not check to that detail.
@@KenTraining if it hits the compressor it can damage it. If it gets too close just bleed a little out. We used to cheat the system when just a little was needed, we'd skip the guages and add a little at a time and watch the frost pattern.
The charge should be weighed in. The frost line will vary as the box comes down to temp. We always charged until
The frost line was just past the evaporator, or at the exit of the cabinet.
Note cyclinders must be up right. other than that a great job.1.21/2023
would that be the same operating pressure on a r134a refrigerator
I doubt it but a pressure temperature chart can confirm.
Ignore most of the negative comments Ken really great training video.
Y don't they come with suction line adapters already installed?
Shretor vavles*
The Trainer Would Have Never Been Able To Repair Refrigerator For Sears Product Service
Friendly and knowlegable guy I learned a few things as well Thanks
You should be installing a service port those piercing valves are terrible.
It’s been a few years. Did it hold the charge or how long until it needed recharging?
I lost that building in 2017...
If you do not find and fix the leak, it will not work for long-1 hour to 4-5 days, sometimes 1 month for a tiny one. If the leak is on the low side and it is in the aluminum evaporator, it sucks water in the system and putting freon in won't work one day.
I tried to find the leak but did not find one... Then my leak detector tied.. :(