More videos about frame and panel construction► Easy frame and flat panel doors: th-cam.com/video/jMiwsGaX2f4/w-d-xo.html Cope and stick frame and panel construction tips: th-cam.com/video/jaQgm0rZ87U/w-d-xo.html Make raised panels with a straight bit: th-cam.com/video/a5JemMD_s-0/w-d-xo.html When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Tormek: amzn.to/2H6IRRM (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
Here's another novel use of Frame & Panel. I made a Mahogany table with a Frame & Panel top. The homemade stain I use results in a darker look across the grain than when viewed with the grain. I installed the panels at a 45 degree angle to the grain. The result: a table top that is evenly matched when viewed from above but the frames and panels change color as you walk around the table. VERY COOL effect ! When people come over, they always spend extra time walking around this table to see the Mahogany light show which includes the grain in the more figured panels and rails dance.
This is good solid information. It is the foundation of all 'old school' woodworking. Wood moves. So design and build accordingly. It is important that any beginner woodworker learn this. It is the foundation of all furniture design.
Ya I just finished making night stands out of hard maple to match the bed I made. I put a panel on the sides but it is not floating. I am not really worried about how they will hold up over time.
I think you're my favorite woodworking blogger. I HATE learning things by video, because I'm allergic to sitting through people talking when it'd be faster to read it; but so many woodworkers don't write, they video-blog (and even if they did, this IS something where it helps to see the movement.) So I watch a lot of woodworking videos, and I get cranky; they talk too much, they go off on tangents, they holler at the camera, they get sidetracked, or they just have lots and lots of personality and I just hate it. You don't do ANY of that. You turn on the camera, say exactly what I need to know, you stay focused and on topic, and you don't repeat yourself. You also bring up stuff that gives me cool ideas, and you're just...man, you're awesome. I'm happy you're out there doing what you do.
Thank you for providing a clear and thorough explanation of why panel are so essential for both doors and carcase when constructing using solid wood. I wish there were more videos clarifying the benefite of traditional construction
I used frame and panel construction to build both a toy chest for the grandkids and a hope chest for my daughter. I used different woods for the panels than I used for the frames.
Wooden drawer slides are underrated. Panels are an integral part of wood working. Once you start planning how to make your stuff easy to re-finish and produce in batches, panels are natural game changers.
Thanks for the clear explanation. I wanted use frame and panel construction on the cabinet for our bathroom but my wife stopped me in my tracks - she doesn't like the dust that collects on the edges. Smooth surfaces only for her. SWMBO!
Great video. I particularly like resaw idea. I recently built a cabinet using this method and in addition to the benefits you mentioned, you can get away with narrower boards. After resawing, you can make nice bookmatched panels which is very attractive.
I'm probably never going to actually use this in my woodworking, but I really appreciate learning that this method actually makes sense beyond looks and saving material. Thanks!
I built all the kitchen cabinets at my old house. What style did I use? The style my wife picked... which is always the most complicated one. Raised panels with arched tops.
I'm building a kitchen Island as one of my first ever projects. I think I'll use the framed doors and perhaps try the raised panel. Thanks for the loads of info.
This is great info! As a new maker, I'll be returning to this video multiple times.. And when I start my new projects (already scheduled and ready for filming), I know I'll get it together right! Thanks!
I really love raised panels doors and side panels... I also am going to start doing more figured woods now that i have my new 18" bandsaw... Thanks again for the info...
A spinoff from Don Hills comment earlier. This channel never fails to provide me with information I didn't take into consideration when I made something. Man I hope wood movement doesn't become an issue on these panels I made for a building. 😬😬
My 100+ year old wardrobe came apart when we attempted to put it together. A panel was out of square and glued until all the panels split, wide open. I was going to re-glue the split panel, but now I AM GOING TO TAKE EVERY BOARD APART and making sure the glue is only where it need to be! The next question will be whether to remove the dark cherry stain or not....
Also this was used historically as wide boards were a lot less common and had to be dressed by hand with hand tools. Dressing small frame pieces is easier than a wide board requiring the craftsman to get two wide surfaces parallel and smooth to be able to make good joints. But withe frame and panel only the narrow frame bits needed to be true to get a good joining surface. which leads to the panel itself which was usually rived as a wedge of stock, thicker at one edge than the other. So all the crafts man had to do was dress the face the seen panel and then just gauge the edges where it fitted in the the frame grove
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Great video! But I have to mention, if you wanted to use solide pannels and wanted wooden drawer slides, you could just use elongated screw holes
Very interesting! Thank you! I'm always learning a lot from this well explained channel. You talk flowless and clear, that's a rare quality today. Thanks again
Of course this is true for glued panels. What about the old 6 board chests put together with nails? There are a lot of those around that haven't fallen apart or split with crossed grain on the end pieces.
Another factor. Most modern kiln dried lumber is dressed to size before it is properly seasoned and there's still initial cross grain shrinkage happening. The use of well seasoned boards explains the many nailed up 200 year old chests and cupboards we see today with little or no damage from shrinkage.
That's because nails, particularly cut nails with pre-bored pilot holes, allow for enough wood movement to prevent damage. I have seen plenty of split panels and drawer bottoms on old furniture that were glued in place.
Plywood is also somewhat more frailge in the long run. If you got a mark/knick in a massive wood panel, it is usually not that of a big deal. If you have the same in a plywood panel with that super thin veneer may be harder to fix - and it can be more of a sore eye in the end. That can actually be a problem if you have, for example, someone in an wheelchair moving around. I have seen really bad examples of exactly that happen around a family members home.
I need to know what's up with the drink in every video!!!??? Just curious about it is all.... ....besides you being thristy.😂😂😂 ....also, yes, thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge about wood working. I appreciate it very much.
Really curious about that L shaped desk you made out of white oak. I'm trying to design one for myself and keep second guessing everything. More info on what you did may help clear up questions on my design.
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
Rails and stiles shrink very little over the length but can move quite a bit over the width which needs to be taken into consideration in a panel style construction.
Do you have a master checklist of all the things you contemplate when building something? I mean OMG all the information you have to think of when building stuff. I'll certainly miss something to think about!
No, but we have recently made some videos that break down some of the aspects of managing large projects in a small shop, such as a bunch of kitchen cabinets or, in this case, a full office suite.
@@paulmarsman8758 No video. I just cut it into little pieces and put it into the grooves. One piece of pipe insulation will last a very long time because the pieces you need are so small. Might make a tip video on it some time.
Really great explanation. I'm just wondering about the base panel of a chest like the one at 1:40. Whichever way the grain goes, it can't line up with both pairs of parallel sides. Or am I missing something?
What tool is used to cut the mentioned 1'x1' wood into thin pieces for a 4'x4' panel? I can't picture any woodworking tool that I've come across that could do that...but seems like a really valuable tool to have.
Question here! I was getting ready to make a traditional 6-board chest, but those often do have the grain on the face and back running horizontally and the sides running vertically. Can you explain for me how those work without falling splitting?
No glue. Use nails. They will allow a little movement. In fact, a traditional cut nail with a pre-bored (and slightly enlarged) pilot hole is a good choice.
I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Really great info! Still learning about what to look for in terms of grain direction and I have a question: I understand about the panels, but what about the frame? Isn't that greeting a joint with 2 opposite grain directions? What's to keep that joint from splitting? Or because it's a narrow piece, it's less of a concern? Also, your video about band saws has convinced me I need a band saw. Expect a letter from my wife.
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
Stumpy, when you're constructing casework like this, how do you attach two sides of a case together? Are two panels just glued together at a 90 degree angle in a butt joint, or do you reinforce it somehow, like with a rabbet? I hope that makes sense.
Usually just glue. Since you are gluing long-grain to long-grain, the joint will be very strong. In fact, the wood itself will break before the glue does. A rabbet joint would be a little stronger because it adds a little more glue surface, and it may help align the parts as you glue and clamp them together. But it isn't necessary, in my opinion.
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
Stumpy, great video. I was wondering if you had any plans to do a video about the increased cost of wood materials these days. I’ve heard everything from the CA wildfires to sawmills in Canada being shutdown due to Covid being the culprit. I was wondering if you had any definitive information in that regard.
@@Woodsyone Are you talking hand planer? My Brother-in-law destroyed the blades on his thickness planer by trying to take too thin a layer off of Burr oak. Are my blades just too dull?
I love how you delve into the science of wood movement and the reasons behind it. I have a video request for you as I think you’d explain it the best. Kreg likes to advertise the use of pocket screws in improper ways (breadboard ends, panels, and securing a table top to an apron just to name a few). Seeing how kreg’s primary market is DIYers that most likely won’t do much research, I think it’s pretty unethical to tell them to use the screws in improper ways. Realistically, if you’re going to use them in solid wood, it’s to reinforce what would otherwise be a butt joint. Could you make a video explaining your thoughts and the reasons that using pocket screws in the ways that I mentioned will most likely lead to a failed project?
I can't speak to Kreg's ads because I have not seen them. However, I can say that using pocket screws to attach table tops and other cross-grain connections is a tried and true application. The Shakers used pocket screws to attach table tops a hundred fifty years ago :) th-cam.com/video/jU21uT-6vQQ/w-d-xo.html
@@StumpyNubs there are plans on their own website that show these methods, so while advertising may be the wrong word, they are definitely advocating it. You even said yourself in that video that the shakers took wood movement into consideration when using pocket screws and bored the pilot holes accordingly as well as stating they should not be used in place of a mortise and tenon.
Yes, there definitely is a place for pocket screws, and a place where they shouldn't be used. We may make a pocket screw tutorial for beginners sometime.
Pretty interesting! Thanks a lot for the tips! 😃 But I have a doubt... Let's say you're making a wooden toolbox, where the sides must be higher to hold the handle. How to connect the pieces in this case, since you can't use raised panels? Thanks a lot!!! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have the diamond wheels for my Tormek. They are really nice. They never need truing, never wear smaller in diameter so your jig settings never change. The course wheel also speeds things up quite a bit.
Premium white oak, kiln dried, mostly clear, 4/4 skip-planed is about $5/bf. At least that's what the hardwood dealer near me charges, and he's not the cheapest, by any means.
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
@@StumpyNubs Yes that’s what I was getting at. So the joint there is much smaller compared to the perpendicular panel joint, thus the movement across the grain isn’t really able to exert enough force to cause problems. That makes sense, thanks!
Great video as always. Love the CAD style video element but please, don't ever get too technical. Some of us love the old school "hands on feel" of carpentry/woodworking.
:36, If the panel doesn’t support but floats, how is it structural? The frame is the structural element. When the panel is structural that indicates something structural gave way.
While I may refer to them sometimes with the shorthand expression "panels", the context of the video makes it pretty clear that I am talking about the frame and panel assembly as a whole.
@@StumpyNubs, I thought your point was easily understandable. I know very little about the craft of woodworking (just purchased my first contractor table saw), but I do appreciate your great educational videos. Go Red Wings!! From West Bloomfield Twp 😁
Have you ever seen solid boards actually split themselves apart due to restricted seasonal movement? Honest question. I get the logic but not sure I’ve seen a real world example. Also, what keeps plywood from tearing itself apart as it’s layers are perpendicular to one another? Please don’t read this as a negative comment. Genuine rookie here with silly questions.
Ya I've seen that too many times. It can happen if your shop where you cut your pieces is outside and you bring those pieces inside to put it together. A day or two to acclimate usually does the trick. This wood movement thing is very real though. Disregarding it , especially with air dried material, will come back to bite you soon or later.
For me Stumps ol’boy framing can look both cheap and very dated. It’s like your American kitchen cabinet doors v our sleek European doors....... just Chalk n Cheese man. Bob England
It seems corded power tools don't see as much innovation as cordless ones. I am looking around for router to attach to a starter router kit. It seems many of the corded routers were released back in the mid 2000's. Which corded router is good to purchase for a router table?
For a starter I've had good results with the Workzone router from Aldi here in the UK, bought in 2010 and mostly used on a router table. It was cheap as chips and is pretty good quality for periodic use. The table was also from Aldi, so I don't know how much fiddling you'd need to do to fit the thing to yours. The great advantage from the cheap Aldi tools is that they tend to be good quality for the price and you can get stuck in using them and learning what works for you. Disclaimer: Moodwise I'm leaning more and more towards hand tools.
The Triton 2400 watt - has a built in router lift, above table bit changing with only one wrench, self releasing collet. There is a 1400 watt model with the same features, just not as much power for larger bits (like panel raising bits). You can use them as both a plunge router and 'fixed base' style router with a press and turn of a button when out of the router table, no need to change bases. Developed in Australia but now only available in the US and Europe.
@@StumpyNubs Oh, my bad. But regardless of my misidentification - I can tell from her looks, with 100% certainty, that she's an awesome office companion.
Yes the part of the tree where the main trunk divide into two trunks is called the crotch, and the distinctive wood grain pattern inside that part of the tree is called crotch grain. It's hilarious.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
More videos about frame and panel construction►
Easy frame and flat panel doors: th-cam.com/video/jMiwsGaX2f4/w-d-xo.html
Cope and stick frame and panel construction tips: th-cam.com/video/jaQgm0rZ87U/w-d-xo.html
Make raised panels with a straight bit: th-cam.com/video/a5JemMD_s-0/w-d-xo.html
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Tormek: amzn.to/2H6IRRM
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Here's another novel use of Frame & Panel. I made a Mahogany table with a Frame & Panel top. The homemade stain I use results in a darker look across the grain than when viewed with the grain. I installed the panels at a 45 degree angle to the grain. The result: a table top that is evenly matched when viewed from above but the frames and panels change color as you walk around the table. VERY COOL effect ! When people come over, they always spend extra time walking around this table to see the Mahogany light show which includes the grain in the more figured panels and rails dance.
This channel never fails to provide carefully explained, practical explanations & tips. Really wonderful. I've learned so much. Thank you.
Absolutely true! Same thoughts I do have
It’s really top tier.
This is good solid information. It is the foundation of all 'old school' woodworking. Wood moves. So design and build accordingly. It is important that any beginner woodworker learn this. It is the foundation of all furniture design.
Thanks, Stumpy.
Ya I just finished making night stands out of hard maple to match the bed I made. I put a panel on the sides but it is not floating. I am not really worried about how they will hold up over time.
I think you're my favorite woodworking blogger. I HATE learning things by video, because I'm allergic to sitting through people talking when it'd be faster to read it; but so many woodworkers don't write, they video-blog (and even if they did, this IS something where it helps to see the movement.) So I watch a lot of woodworking videos, and I get cranky; they talk too much, they go off on tangents, they holler at the camera, they get sidetracked, or they just have lots and lots of personality and I just hate it. You don't do ANY of that. You turn on the camera, say exactly what I need to know, you stay focused and on topic, and you don't repeat yourself. You also bring up stuff that gives me cool ideas, and you're just...man, you're awesome. I'm happy you're out there doing what you do.
I never get tired of watching your vids, no verbal stumbles, no obvious edits (not counting cutaways), and I always learn something, to boot.
Thank you for providing a clear and thorough explanation of why panel are so essential for both doors and carcase when constructing using solid wood. I wish there were more videos clarifying the benefite of traditional construction
I used frame and panel construction to build both a toy chest for the grandkids and a hope chest for my daughter. I used different woods for the panels than I used for the frames.
Wooden drawer slides are underrated.
Panels are an integral part of wood working. Once you start planning how to make your stuff easy to re-finish and produce in batches, panels are natural game changers.
Thanks for the clear explanation. I wanted use frame and panel construction on the cabinet for our bathroom but my wife stopped me in my tracks - she doesn't like the dust that collects on the edges. Smooth surfaces only for her. SWMBO!
Great video. I particularly like resaw idea. I recently built a cabinet using this method and in addition to the benefits you mentioned, you can get away with narrower boards. After resawing, you can make nice bookmatched panels which is very attractive.
Something so obvious isn’t always apparent. Thanks again!
I'm probably never going to actually use this in my woodworking, but I really appreciate learning that this method actually makes sense beyond looks and saving material. Thanks!
I built all the kitchen cabinets at my old house. What style did I use? The style my wife picked... which is always the most complicated one. Raised panels with arched tops.
It also helps to distinguish it from flat pack furniture made of sawdust, glue, and plastic.
I love the white oak office furniture.
A great show.Always clear,uncluttered commentary and great tips and tricks backed by solid knowledge.Keep it up a d well done.Richard
I'm building a kitchen Island as one of my first ever projects. I think I'll use the framed doors and perhaps try the raised panel. Thanks for the loads of info.
This is great info! As a new maker, I'll be returning to this video multiple times.. And when I start my new projects (already scheduled and ready for filming), I know I'll get it together right! Thanks!
I really love raised panels doors and side panels... I also am going to start doing more figured woods now that i have my new 18" bandsaw... Thanks again for the info...
A spinoff from Don Hills comment earlier.
This channel never fails to provide me with information I didn't take into consideration when I made something.
Man I hope wood movement doesn't become an issue on these panels I made for a building.
😬😬
good ole' Stumpy. easily in the top ten youtube (carpentry) educators
You make good video's Stumpy! Mostly I learn some new things, but this is my liking.
Keep up the good work!
My 100+ year old wardrobe came apart when we attempted to put it together. A panel was out of square and glued until all the panels split, wide open. I was going to re-glue the split panel, but now I AM GOING TO TAKE EVERY BOARD APART and making sure the glue is only where it need to be!
The next question will be whether to remove the dark cherry stain or not....
Also this was used historically as wide boards were a lot less common and had to be dressed by hand with hand tools. Dressing small frame pieces is easier than a wide board requiring the craftsman to get two wide surfaces parallel and smooth to be able to make good joints. But withe frame and panel only the narrow frame bits needed to be true to get a good joining surface. which leads to the panel itself which was usually rived as a wedge of stock, thicker at one edge than the other. So all the crafts man had to do was dress the face the seen panel and then just gauge the edges where it fitted in the the frame grove
Great video! But I have to mention, if you wanted to use solide pannels and wanted wooden drawer slides, you could just use elongated screw holes
That wasn't the point. But thanks.
Thanks for sharing with us James, valuable information you passed along to us. Fred. 👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
Very interesting, thanks! I'm gonna try using ¼ panels in frames for my next cabinet!
Idk, but i'll let you tell me.
I'm gonna sit for this.
Thanks for the informatic entertainment! This one and all the ones you've made already!
Very interesting! Thank you! I'm always learning a lot from this well explained channel. You talk flowless and clear, that's a rare quality today. Thanks again
Nice info for the technical and physical reasons behind what looks just like an artistic choice.
What a fantastic teacher you are stumpy.Tim in uk
Great explanation. I really appreciate your expertise and your teaching style. Thank you!
You never stop amassing me .Julien Lamarche
I'd love to see how you made that office desk!
Great video! If you do work for others you are bound to use all kinds of different methods based on what the customer wants.
Of course this is true for glued panels. What about the old 6 board chests put together with nails? There are a lot of those around that haven't fallen apart or split with crossed grain on the end pieces.
Another factor. Most modern kiln dried lumber is dressed to size before it is properly seasoned and there's still initial cross grain shrinkage happening. The use of well seasoned boards explains the many nailed up 200 year old chests and cupboards we see today with little or no damage from shrinkage.
That's because nails, particularly cut nails with pre-bored pilot holes, allow for enough wood movement to prevent damage. I have seen plenty of split panels and drawer bottoms on old furniture that were glued in place.
Lots of information to consider here. Thank you.
Thank you for all the good information to share with us all the time! That’s why I subscribe to your video.
Plywood is also somewhat more frailge in the long run. If you got a mark/knick in a massive wood panel, it is usually not that of a big deal. If you have the same in a plywood panel with that super thin veneer may be harder to fix - and it can be more of a sore eye in the end. That can actually be a problem if you have, for example, someone in an wheelchair moving around. I have seen really bad examples of exactly that happen around a family members home.
@2:24, would that be a case to use nails as well? grain going in different directions ?
You don't have to edge band plywood. Hit it with some black stain. You can get really cool 3-tone projects.
Great Info!!! Thank You!!! Looks Awesome!!!! 👍😎😁
Thank you, as always, to the point and important tips
I need to know what's up with the drink in every video!!!???
Just curious about it is all....
....besides you being thristy.😂😂😂
....also, yes, thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge about wood working.
I appreciate it very much.
Really curious about that L shaped desk you made out of white oak. I'm trying to design one for myself and keep second guessing everything. More info on what you did may help clear up questions on my design.
Great presentation. Well thought out and informative.
What about wood movement between the rails and styles (stiles?) ? Or are they thin enough that the movement is negligible?
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
Rails and stiles shrink very little over the length but can move quite a bit over the width which needs to be taken into consideration in a panel style construction.
I just 'like' the look of frame and raised panels. I'm just old fashioned.
Another fabulous video.
Do you have a master checklist of all the things you contemplate when building something? I mean OMG all the information you have to think of when building stuff. I'll certainly miss something to think about!
No, but we have recently made some videos that break down some of the aspects of managing large projects in a small shop, such as a bunch of kitchen cabinets or, in this case, a full office suite.
I also heard about space balls(not the movie) in a John Malecki video and I think they’re something you should check out for wooden panels
I use pieces of foam pope insulation or backer rod. Works great and are practically free.
@@StumpyNubs would you happen to have a video explaining this? I’ve never seen anyone do that for wood panels.
@@paulmarsman8758 No video. I just cut it into little pieces and put it into the grooves. One piece of pipe insulation will last a very long time because the pieces you need are so small. Might make a tip video on it some time.
Thank You James!
Nice explanation.
I don't know if it is obsolete or not, but I have been using similar method with 1/8 plywood to lower the weight of the furnitures.
Great explanation. Thanks
Really great explanation. I'm just wondering about the base panel of a chest like the one at 1:40. Whichever way the grain goes, it can't line up with both pairs of parallel sides. Or am I missing something?
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
What tool is used to cut the mentioned 1'x1' wood into thin pieces for a 4'x4' panel?
I can't picture any woodworking tool that I've come across that could do that...but seems like a really valuable tool to have.
A band saw. The process of slicing a thick piece into thinner slices is called re-sawing.
Question here! I was getting ready to make a traditional 6-board chest, but those often do have the grain on the face and back running horizontally and the sides running vertically. Can you explain for me how those work without falling splitting?
No glue. Use nails. They will allow a little movement. In fact, a traditional cut nail with a pre-bored (and slightly enlarged) pilot hole is a good choice.
Rex Krueger recently built a 6-board chest. As Stumpy said, you'll need to use nails, preferably cut nails.
@@StumpyNubs - how about dowels instead of nails?
@@Beakerbite That video is what made me decide to make one.
@@StumpyNubs okay, that was what I did not understand, the fastener choice is what makes the difference.
Are the panels glued into the frames?
No
thanks
I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Really great info!
Still learning about what to look for in terms of grain direction and I have a question:
I understand about the panels, but what about the frame? Isn't that greeting a joint with 2 opposite grain directions?
What's to keep that joint from splitting? Or because it's a narrow piece, it's less of a concern?
Also, your video about band saws has convinced me I need a band saw. Expect a letter from my wife.
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
Great job explaining everything thank you
Stumpy, when you're constructing casework like this, how do you attach two sides of a case together? Are two panels just glued together at a 90 degree angle in a butt joint, or do you reinforce it somehow, like with a rabbet? I hope that makes sense.
Usually just glue. Since you are gluing long-grain to long-grain, the joint will be very strong. In fact, the wood itself will break before the glue does. A rabbet joint would be a little stronger because it adds a little more glue surface, and it may help align the parts as you glue and clamp them together. But it isn't necessary, in my opinion.
@@StumpyNubs Thank you!
thanks for sharing those tips!
Good stuff, Thanks.
Should there be any concern for wood movement with the rails and styles?
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
@@StumpyNubs Apologies for lack of clarity. I was wondering about panels joined together; similar to the blanket chest example.
Stumpy, great video.
I was wondering if you had any plans to do a video about the increased cost of wood materials these days. I’ve heard everything from the CA wildfires to sawmills in Canada being shutdown due to Covid being the culprit.
I was wondering if you had any definitive information in that regard.
How do you thickness plane materials such as oak,without burning it?
Planer. Does the trick just fine.
@@Woodsyone Are you talking hand planer? My Brother-in-law destroyed the blades on his thickness planer by trying to take too thin a layer off of Burr oak. Are my blades just too dull?
I love how you delve into the science of wood movement and the reasons behind it. I have a video request for you as I think you’d explain it the best.
Kreg likes to advertise the use of pocket screws in improper ways (breadboard ends, panels, and securing a table top to an apron just to name a few). Seeing how kreg’s primary market is DIYers that most likely won’t do much research, I think it’s pretty unethical to tell them to use the screws in improper ways. Realistically, if you’re going to use them in solid wood, it’s to reinforce what would otherwise be a butt joint.
Could you make a video explaining your thoughts and the reasons that using pocket screws in the ways that I mentioned will most likely lead to a failed project?
I can't speak to Kreg's ads because I have not seen them. However, I can say that using pocket screws to attach table tops and other cross-grain connections is a tried and true application. The Shakers used pocket screws to attach table tops a hundred fifty years ago :) th-cam.com/video/jU21uT-6vQQ/w-d-xo.html
@@StumpyNubs there are plans on their own website that show these methods, so while advertising may be the wrong word, they are definitely advocating it. You even said yourself in that video that the shakers took wood movement into consideration when using pocket screws and bored the pilot holes accordingly as well as stating they should not be used in place of a mortise and tenon.
Yes, there definitely is a place for pocket screws, and a place where they shouldn't be used. We may make a pocket screw tutorial for beginners sometime.
Pretty interesting! Thanks a lot for the tips! 😃
But I have a doubt... Let's say you're making a wooden toolbox, where the sides must be higher to hold the handle. How to connect the pieces in this case, since you can't use raised panels?
Thanks a lot!!! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Why can you not use raised panels? As long as the frames can hold the weight, it should still work just fine.
@@thomasarussellsr Because of the format... Take a look at the last video from Jimmy Diresta.
Thanks!
Six board chests combined vertical and horizontal grain and lasted for centuries.
A 6-board chest is constructed with nailing techniques that allow for wood movement.
I saw a vid on tormek that has a diamond encrusted wheel
I have the diamond wheels for my Tormek. They are really nice. They never need truing, never wear smaller in diameter so your jig settings never change. The course wheel also speeds things up quite a bit.
Good info
....how much is white oak up there??? Down here in Texas it's over $7/bdft
Premium white oak, kiln dried, mostly clear, 4/4 skip-planed is about $5/bf. At least that's what the hardwood dealer near me charges, and he's not the cheapest, by any means.
@@StumpyNubs damn.... you're in Michigan/Canada, right? Might need to make a trip up there and score a few hundred bdft
Why doesn’t the movement issue break the frames? Aren’t the rails and stiles perpendicular to each other?
Do you mean the connection between a rail and a stile (in a corner of a frame) being cross-grain? These are so narrow that wood movement is negligible.
@@StumpyNubs Yes that’s what I was getting at. So the joint there is much smaller compared to the perpendicular panel joint, thus the movement across the grain isn’t really able to exert enough force to cause problems. That makes sense, thanks!
Great video as always. Love the CAD style video element but please, don't ever get too technical. Some of us love the old school "hands on feel" of carpentry/woodworking.
nice info
The Cold One Coozy failed! Actually saw the hidden mouse this time! (Loved the explanation of this video. Learned a lot)
:36, If the panel doesn’t support but floats, how is it structural? The frame is the structural element. When the panel is structural that indicates something structural gave way.
While I may refer to them sometimes with the shorthand expression "panels", the context of the video makes it pretty clear that I am talking about the frame and panel assembly as a whole.
@@StumpyNubs, I thought your point was easily understandable.
I know very little about the craft of woodworking (just purchased my first contractor table saw), but I do appreciate your great educational videos.
Go Red Wings!! From West Bloomfield Twp 😁
How can you get a thumbs down 18 seconds after the video was posted?
Some folks just love the power.
Gotta be haters who don't know a good thing if it bit them on the tuchas! Red from "That 70's show" had the perfect name for them...Dumbasses! ;-)
Some people are always unhappy no pleasing them. Give them a gold brick they complain and want two
Some people just want to watch the world burn.
Them and the horse they rode in on!
Your like the Q of woodworking.
What's with the upside down Stumpy Nubs logo behind you on your tool wall?
Someone complain that it was crooked, so I fixed it for hmm ;)
Good information, thanks. By the way, your mouse is showing. :)
Nice coozie!!!
Have you ever seen solid boards actually split themselves apart due to restricted seasonal movement? Honest question. I get the logic but not sure I’ve seen a real world example. Also, what keeps plywood from tearing itself apart as it’s layers are perpendicular to one another? Please don’t read this as a negative comment. Genuine rookie here with silly questions.
Ya I've seen that too many times. It can happen if your shop where you cut your pieces is outside and you bring those pieces inside to put it together. A day or two to acclimate usually does the trick. This wood movement thing is very real though. Disregarding it , especially with air dried material, will come back to bite you soon or later.
Yes, I have seen many examples in old furniture.
For me Stumps ol’boy framing can look both cheap and very dated. It’s like your American kitchen cabinet doors v our sleek European doors....... just Chalk n Cheese man.
Bob
England
Fix your stumpy nubs trademark it’s upside down behind you on the cabinet. ☝️☝️☝️
Science.
It seems corded power tools don't see as much innovation as cordless ones. I am looking around for router to attach to a starter router kit. It seems many of the corded routers were released back in the mid 2000's. Which corded router is good to purchase for a router table?
For a starter I've had good results with the Workzone router from Aldi here in the UK, bought in 2010 and mostly used on a router table. It was cheap as chips and is pretty good quality for periodic use. The table was also from Aldi, so I don't know how much fiddling you'd need to do to fit the thing to yours. The great advantage from the cheap Aldi tools is that they tend to be good quality for the price and you can get stuck in using them and learning what works for you. Disclaimer: Moodwise I'm leaning more and more towards hand tools.
The Triton 2400 watt - has a built in router lift, above table bit changing with only one wrench, self releasing collet. There is a 1400 watt model with the same features, just not as much power for larger bits (like panel raising bits). You can use them as both a plunge router and 'fixed base' style router with a press and turn of a button when out of the router table, no need to change bases. Developed in Australia but now only available in the US and Europe.
OH LOOK - a sheltie!
She's a mini-Australian Shepherd.
@@StumpyNubs Oh, my bad.
But regardless of my misidentification - I can tell from her looks, with 100% certainty, that she's an awesome office companion.
Make Bread from crotch grain ok
crotch grain?! or did I hear that wrong?? either way, that makes my teenaged brain laugh very loudly
Yes the part of the tree where the main trunk divide into two trunks is called the crotch, and the distinctive wood grain pattern inside that part of the tree is called crotch grain. It's hilarious.
Meeeaah.
Wot no views !
This channel is pure evil. Now all O want to do is go home and do all sorts of woodwork.
O hope it is. Its ugly af.