Camera angle/position test for modified print head with nozzle cam using an modified endoscope. Check out my Complete How-To video for more details: • 3D Printer Nozzle Cam ...
One of the best nozzle cam videos I've seen. You can really identify all the imperfections: oozing during initial travel to start the print (missing retraction?) and during unretracts, minor blips in extruder grip or filament consistency, even picking up tiny pieces of junk and carrying them on the nozzle.
This has both incredibly satisfying, yet oddly sinister feeling to it... The little camera glitches and low bitrate audio remind me of a 6 minute video that ends with a creep-scare. (Like a jump scare, but rather a stomach dropping feeling caused by terrible realization rather than a loud noise or sudden movement.) I can't find it, so it might have been a dream, but this still brings up the memory of it, real or not. Also, It was very satisfying. And I enjoyed watching it for that alone.
I came up with the same idea after constantly bending over to try to look at my nozzle laying down the 1st layer! And lo and behold I’m pumped to find your video of the idea to help me get the logistics figured out…heading over to your other video now to check it out.
@@chilicoke damn it looks amazing - no doubt one of the most satisfying things I've ever seen, especially after going through the pains of poor bed adhesion lmao
This video demonstrates fundamental flaw of every slicer i tried that i was able to get. Flaw: Retraction. WTF ? Retraction is distance based. It needs to be event based, such as: always retract before travel. Limits how far distance has to be in order to justify retraction is a must option. If distance is less then 2mm for example, do not retract. Right now every slicer cares less about retractions before travel in a way. They all compensate it with "minimum retraction" "minimum distance" "when crossing" etc. Not one slicer has an option to retract before travel. Other options needed: Option to limit retraction based on what part is printing, skin, shell, infill etc. Each has to have its own retraction settings with minimum travel, prime etc.
I'm betting the video glitches are from the USB data voltages being too weak / noisy (thus losing lock?). How long was the cable? Were the D+/D- lines shielded? Was it going through a USB hub?
Really nice angle! Have you thought about making a tutorial on how to build/setup a camera like this? I'm sure a lot of people would love it to tune their g-code (myself included). Cheers!
Yup that's the plan, check out my latest video for update th-cam.com/video/UE8fDBALxLg/w-d-xo.html Still encountering multiple challenges with this, once I figured everything out in a more completely form I will definitely post a detailed how-to video.
That's beautiful! What adjustments did you make afterwards? Personally (I'm a hobbyist so grain of salt) I'd raise the layer height a smidge to prevent squish. It was my understanding that there should be a small bead on the top of the first layer
Actually this was my preferred setting on this old bowden extruder set up. When extruding this much plastic (ABS, 0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height), I've found it's preferred to squash first layer significantly more than standard 0.4mm nozzle. It behaves quite differently.
this is artwork ... I watched your video of making of tries and cams, just amazing job !! thanks for this channel and the effort of make it happen and the sharing !! cheers ! 🤌🙌
50-60mm/s, 3000 acceleration on Klipper. Not the fastest settings as it's 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height with ABS, I can go faster but at this nozzle size/layer height the print quality starts to suffer a little bit, so I found the speed which I was happy with the print quality and dialed it back by around 10% as a consistency/reliability buffer.
Hi and thanks! This was recorded directly from my computer, camera is outputting 30fps but camera sensor"s actual capture fps is closer to 15-20fps. Focusing was a whole other can of warms, you'll find the details in my how-to video. th-cam.com/video/GAp23w_dnNc/w-d-xo.html
ABS, 255C nozzle temperature, first layer is 35mm/s and 50-60mm/s for the rest of the print. It could go faster but when using such a big nozzle I prefer to print a bit on the slower side.
@@peterfoldesi483 I purposely set "Fill Gaps Between Walls" to "Nowhere" in Cura when printing with 0.8mm nozzle. Since each pass is equal to 2 premiere on a 0.4mm nozzle, parts are already plenty strong enough, no need to waste time filling in between gaps and exterior surface is also better without it.
Would it be possible to use AI to take information from the photos like over extrusion/under extrusion then verry the amount of filament flow so parts come out more accurately?
Training the AI to recognize those conditions would be the key to all of that. I've just started dabbling in training yolo models and my god this would be wild to train.
I could see possibly if you have pictured of what the final product should look like and pictures of what it looks like when messed up. Still be a PITA.
Really cool. Will be checking out your how to video to see what camera you used. Any idea why you are getting glitches in the video? Maybe noise? Looks like your first layer extrusion multiplyer is a bit high too. 😉
I've replaced the original stiff USB cable with unshielded super flexible silicon wires so it will have any chance of survive all the back and forth bending in my cable chain, and it introduced a bit of interference to the camera. I've since improved it a bit but it's not 100% gone, it was a compromise, will experiment with other methods in the future to see if I can improve it further. First layer is squished more on purpose because of ABS has tendency to shrink and lift off bed, and it gets even more significant when extruding this much plastic (0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height).
@@chilicoke ahhhh, didn't realize what you were printing with. Totally understand the ABS thing. For cable sheath you should check out "DEi (Design Engineering Inc) Protect-A-Wire" it's super flexible and has heat protection to 500° F direct contact. If you were local I'd give you some but the chances you are in Ohio - USA is pretty slim. 🤣
@chilicoke : In your starting Sequence you´re measuring your nozzle height with a sensor. Can you share something about this? Sensor type / how this works ? Could be a nice feature when changing nozzle sizes, no need to level again
There's plenty of bed leveling sensors on the market like the EZ ABL, BL Touch and the like. You still have to physically level the bed with these sensors though.
@misterm1502 @stevijones06 That "nozzle height probe" is actually just a Z homing microswitch, it measures the nozzle instead so there is no need to reset Z offset whenever I switch print head/hotend as the height difference between the probe and bed is constant. The Voron 2 is unique that it uses an inductive probe behind the print head to probe a MIC6 cast aluminum tooling plate (super flat), it then uses 4 separate Z motors one in each corner to skew the X/Y gantry to match the plane of bed, then before print I probe the nozzle Z height again after purge to get a very accurate Z offset. There is no mesh compensation what so ever when printing.
Yeah when nozzle orifice gets to this size (.8mm) or bigger, you can definitely see how extruded plastic behaves very differently to typical .4mm, some custom move actions can definitely be developed by analyzing super close up footages like this.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA GF D1 | Summer | แข่งที่ไทย ต้องใส่ให้สุด](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jkuf7nCS7jI/mqdefault.jpg)
I have decided that i will watch this before i go to sleep
Better than watching paint dry. Or counting sheep
I have found the most entertaining thing about 3D printing is watching them work, not even the things they make as much, just how they work.
More like...It (TH-cam) has decided that you watch this before you go to sleep
So as I have!
Get rid of the electromagnetic interference on the camera and you have some ASMR stuff right there bro....
I only flicked it on for a sec. Ended up watching it till the end. Strangely addictive
Trust me I've done this way too many times, few times even got a bit of headache from it. :-P
@@chilicoke I need to do this on mine now.
One of the best nozzle cam videos I've seen. You can really identify all the imperfections: oozing during initial travel to start the print (missing retraction?) and during unretracts, minor blips in extruder grip or filament consistency, even picking up tiny pieces of junk and carrying them on the nozzle.
This has both incredibly satisfying, yet oddly sinister feeling to it... The little camera glitches and low bitrate audio remind me of a 6 minute video that ends with a creep-scare. (Like a jump scare, but rather a stomach dropping feeling caused by terrible realization rather than a loud noise or sudden movement.) I can't find it, so it might have been a dream, but this still brings up the memory of it, real or not.
Also, It was very satisfying. And I enjoyed watching it for that alone.
Bit disappointed didn't find out what was being printed at the end
I came looking for this
I believe it was the taz 5 enclosure brackets from his other video - th-cam.com/video/dAp1RXJwOVI/w-d-xo.html
As someone who owns a 3d printer, this is super satisfying to watch
One of the coolest 3D printing videos I’ve seen. Kind of mesmerizing lmao
I came up with the same idea after constantly bending over to try to look at my nozzle laying down the 1st layer! And lo and behold I’m pumped to find your video of the idea to help me get the logistics figured out…heading over to your other video now to check it out.
The fact that we don't get to see what it is at the end is killing me
Looks like motor mounts
Mesmerising to watch and must be good for tweaking too
Please don’t post any more of these. I can’t stop watching and I need sleep. ;)
But for real, super interesting. But also I can’t stop.
Wow, that is the best nozzle cam footage I have seen to date, what a diagnostic tool that really is ... so Cool..... very cool....
Now I really want to know what you were printing. It reminded me of a gasket I’ve used in auto repair. :)
That bed could not be more perfectly levelled
It's the magic of MIC6 cast tooling plate bed and Voron 2's really clever Quad Gantry Leveling system!
@@chilicoke damn it looks amazing - no doubt one of the most satisfying things I've ever seen, especially after going through the pains of poor bed adhesion lmao
I was thinking it was just a hair high, butt since the second layer didn't appear to be affected, it definitely seems to be within an acceptable range
This is by far the most satisfying close-up view of a 3D printing nozzle at work!
I could watch this all day!
Thats sooo freakin' clean layer surface O.O IN EVERY SINGLE LAYER.....this looks so perfekt...
I'd definitely would love to see more videos like this. It's so interesting and relaxing.
This is pretty amazing to watch!
Thank you. I can understand that first extrude has little bit string cause, but after that it was not observed any more.
It is impressive how from close up it looks so imperfect and rough but looking at it from a distance it would look smooth
Even from a distance, that print is rough AF
I've met my people. This is so satisfying to watch.
Omg look at all the dust... this is insightful
I could watch this for hours !
wow! im mind blown to see , this is whats going on behind the cines of my 3d printer lol. awspme to watch! thanks for the videos
Imagine this with like a sports commentator announcing it hahah
This is oddly satisfying.
Bro this is satsafying as all hell👁👄👁👌🏻
This video demonstrates fundamental flaw of every slicer i tried that i was able to get.
Flaw: Retraction.
WTF ? Retraction is distance based. It needs to be event based, such as: always retract before travel.
Limits how far distance has to be in order to justify retraction is a must option.
If distance is less then 2mm for example, do not retract.
Right now every slicer cares less about retractions before travel in a way. They all compensate it with "minimum retraction" "minimum distance" "when crossing" etc.
Not one slicer has an option to retract before travel.
Other options needed:
Option to limit retraction based on what part is printing, skin, shell, infill etc. Each has to have its own retraction settings with minimum travel, prime etc.
Dope angle man
Very cool to watch! Would like to see a view of what it was working on though.
I'm betting the video glitches are from the USB data voltages being too weak / noisy (thus losing lock?). How long was the cable? Were the D+/D- lines shielded? Was it going through a USB hub?
I could watch this all day long, haha!
nice, I got this video recommended by YT:-D
TH-cam algorithm definitely is a mysterious beast. 🤔
Really nice angle! Have you thought about making a tutorial on how to build/setup a camera like this? I'm sure a lot of people would love it to tune their g-code (myself included). Cheers!
Yup that's the plan, check out my latest video for update th-cam.com/video/UE8fDBALxLg/w-d-xo.html
Still encountering multiple challenges with this, once I figured everything out in a more completely form I will definitely post a detailed how-to video.
This is amazing!!! Can you upload more of there videos please?!?!?
Would you share you start gcode? I've been trying to tune mine to do something similar on my modded Printrbot with a duetwifi
This looks big. What is the nozzle size and layer height? Great to watch mate. Would like to see vase mode like this.
That's beautiful! What adjustments did you make afterwards? Personally (I'm a hobbyist so grain of salt) I'd raise the layer height a smidge to prevent squish. It was my understanding that there should be a small bead on the top of the first layer
Actually this was my preferred setting on this old bowden extruder set up. When extruding this much plastic (ABS, 0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height), I've found it's preferred to squash first layer significantly more than standard 0.4mm nozzle. It behaves quite differently.
Very interesting. How did you do that? I mean the camera used for, looks very good
I'm in love with this 😍
This is such a brilliant view!
Not sure about your Z homing solution, though
So satisfying
I used to go to a makerspace that would have dozens of printers working at once, the smell was pretty amazing.
PLA smells great, ABS not so much hahah
better not smell abs, bad for health
Watching this in a cinema hall. Found this so interesting that I couldn't stop watching this. Now I've lost the plot of the movie
Well why were you on your phone in the first place?
@@FlashDrive356 was about to look something related to the prequel, ended up watching this instead!
@@ritzrocks98 oh XD
this is artwork ... I watched your video of making of tries and cams, just amazing job !! thanks for this channel and the effort of make it happen and the sharing !! cheers ! 🤌🙌
came here after the CNCKitchen Video.
Pretty cool. great for debugging g-code strategies.
Yup! 15 min with this view I've already vastly improved my initial nozzle purge g-code better than what I've done in the past year!
Wow, this should be on "your daily source of the Internet"
Makes me think of Grease. Lol. Now I need to make me a camera setup like that
Very smart. Thanks to share with us.
😭😭😭it's beautiful!
This is really neat! What accelerations and print speeds are you running? What size nozzle?
50-60mm/s, 3000 acceleration on Klipper. Not the fastest settings as it's 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height with ABS, I can go faster but at this nozzle size/layer height the print quality starts to suffer a little bit, so I found the speed which I was happy with the print quality and dialed it back by around 10% as a consistency/reliability buffer.
This is really well done, I'd like to train an AI on that to auto tune a printer/filament
Yee that'd be dope af
Nice view and work! how you got such a clear image / fast fps? Pls, what software or did you use?
Hi and thanks! This was recorded directly from my computer, camera is outputting 30fps but camera sensor"s actual capture fps is closer to 15-20fps.
Focusing was a whole other can of warms, you'll find the details in my how-to video. th-cam.com/video/GAp23w_dnNc/w-d-xo.html
What material, nozzle temperature, feed rate and line width did you use? The deposed material looks extremly liquid (or fluid?) to me.
ABS, 255C nozzle temperature, first layer is 35mm/s and 50-60mm/s for the rest of the print. It could go faster but when using such a big nozzle I prefer to print a bit on the slower side.
Can you do a vase mode print and upload that video?
What did you print
Please upload more video like this
Does your printer suffer from premature extrusion?
This definitely has Kickstarter potential.
What kind of filament is this?
looks good, but that thin wall gap bothers me likecrazy.
Same here... I wonder which slicer made this program
Prusaslicer fills gaps like these with calibrated flow for the empty area under the nozzle
@@peterfoldesi483 yes, that's what I'm used to.
@@peterfoldesi483 I purposely set "Fill Gaps Between Walls" to "Nowhere" in Cura when printing with 0.8mm nozzle. Since each pass is equal to 2 premiere on a 0.4mm nozzle, parts are already plenty strong enough, no need to waste time filling in between gaps and exterior surface is also better without it.
Beautiful
funny just built the same... ESP32-Cam... so its wireless, tiny and lightweight - plus my printhead has 4 leds for illumination right under it.
Would it be possible to use AI to take information from the photos like over extrusion/under extrusion then verry the amount of filament flow so parts come out more accurately?
Training the AI to recognize those conditions would be the key to all of that.
I've just started dabbling in training yolo models and my god this would be wild to train.
That would be crazy hard i image
They just need to make an AI to create the AI for it, that's all, lol.
I could see possibly if you have pictured of what the final product should look like and pictures of what it looks like when messed up.
Still be a PITA.
@@jayclyde6045 SKYNETTTTT
Really cool. Will be checking out your how to video to see what camera you used. Any idea why you are getting glitches in the video? Maybe noise? Looks like your first layer extrusion multiplyer is a bit high too. 😉
I've replaced the original stiff USB cable with unshielded super flexible silicon wires so it will have any chance of survive all the back and forth bending in my cable chain, and it introduced a bit of interference to the camera. I've since improved it a bit but it's not 100% gone, it was a compromise, will experiment with other methods in the future to see if I can improve it further.
First layer is squished more on purpose because of ABS has tendency to shrink and lift off bed, and it gets even more significant when extruding this much plastic (0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height).
@@chilicoke ahhhh, didn't realize what you were printing with. Totally understand the ABS thing. For cable sheath you should check out "DEi (Design Engineering Inc) Protect-A-Wire" it's super flexible and has heat protection to 500° F direct contact. If you were local I'd give you some but the chances you are in Ohio - USA is pretty slim. 🤣
Impressive
This looks oddly... delicious
That's awesome.
Красота! Всё бы в жизнь было таким красивым!
I enjoy how edible the plastic looks
What were ya printing?
Your camera is driving me insane.
And what filament are you using? It looks like it is going down like butter!!
Inland ABS, it flows like butter.
So cool
Hi! I want to know if i can use your video to make a educational video about 3d printing for TH-cam
yup! you are more than welcome to.
What are you printing. 😊
Привет! А что за датчик уровня??? Где такой найти?
@chilicoke : In your starting Sequence you´re measuring your nozzle height with a sensor. Can you share something about this? Sensor type / how this works ? Could be a nice feature when changing nozzle sizes, no need to level again
There's plenty of bed leveling sensors on the market like the EZ ABL, BL Touch and the like. You still have to physically level the bed with these sensors though.
@misterm1502 @stevijones06 That "nozzle height probe" is actually just a Z homing microswitch, it measures the nozzle instead so there is no need to reset Z offset whenever I switch print head/hotend as the height difference between the probe and bed is constant. The Voron 2 is unique that it uses an inductive probe behind the print head to probe a MIC6 cast aluminum tooling plate (super flat), it then uses 4 separate Z motors one in each corner to skew the X/Y gantry to match the plane of bed, then before print I probe the nozzle Z height again after purge to get a very accurate Z offset. There is no mesh compensation what so ever when printing.
@@chilicoke thanks for explanation (y)
Epic 👊👏
I thought that was chocolate frosting for a few minutes 😂😂😂
I wish chocolate frosting comes in a spool like this, I'd just feed it directly into my mouth with a stepper motor.
¨we have to definitely implement this cam shots in our videos :) its made out of some scrap mobile parts?
It's like ASMR
I love the first layer. I cant get it right every time! 😭
Omg! what a great bass 😂😂
Hello, what kind of camera have you installed??
Just uploaded my how-to video, you will find the exact camera I used in description. 👍 th-cam.com/video/GAp23w_dnNc/w-d-xo.html
Amazing how much dust and other crap is on the bed -and I bet it looked clean too...
Yeah I had no idea, now I wipe down my bed before printing much more regularly.
That's more fun than watching people cut soap !!!!
Very nice, can yuo put the layer high?( i think its 0.28?)
It's 0.4mm layer height on 0.8mm nozzle.
I thinks it PLA. What about ABS i have difficult time using abs. Like setting or calibration.
Kind of asmr!
Wich Probe Type you are using ? And wich firmware
I'm currently using PL-08N2, I also have a few Omron TL-Q5MC2-Z on hand as well that I'll consider switching in the future. Firmware is Klipper.
What camera are you using?
You'll fine all the information in my How-To video. th-cam.com/video/GAp23w_dnNc/w-d-xo.html
what printer are you using this camera on?
Modified Voron 2, check out my other videos.
From the look of this it seems the head should pulse down at the start of an extrusion cycle/after a move.
Yeah when nozzle orifice gets to this size (.8mm) or bigger, you can definitely see how extruded plastic behaves very differently to typical .4mm, some custom move actions can definitely be developed by analyzing super close up footages like this.
Nice bead
A quarter of a million views! And only four layers were shown. How many millions of views would there have been if 400 layers had been shown?
How to install?
What kind of tool is that at 0:16 and what kind of printer is that ?
custom Voron 2, at 0:16 is Z homing end stop, it measures the nozzle tip.