I haven't the foggiest idea why people say this doesn't work. This is insane. I'm been vaping for 6 years, 25 watts at. 17 ohm at 460 is just nuts. Flavor vapor and no dry hits. Amazing. Great tutorial rip!
First comment on your vids, Rip: Thank you so much for pointing me to the DNA40. Its a beast and definitely the next BIG, like BIIIG thing. I still cant believe I am actually vaping my Lemo (bought that also because of your review) on friggin 25 Watts. *Twenty-the-hell-five-Watts* (oO) and no dry burns at all. Nickel 200, 10 wraps on 3 mm diameter btw (0.16 Ohms - approximately 0.04 Ohms because of Lemo). I have to set the temp protect to 400 °F to prevent dry hits - presumably because of the 40 mOhms fixed resistance in the Lemo. In RDAs I am fine up to 450 °F. I am blown away, really I am. Little tip for coil building: I am using a metric M3 screw (would be 3/32" for you) to wrap: The grooves act as a guideline for the wraps, resulting in VERY even coil right away - without fiddling around. You just have to "unscrew" the coil and you are done. The Nickel wire is practically not springy, so the screw method works like a charm in this case (quite the opposite to Kanthal). Hope that helps, give it a try! All the best and thanks again for all your efforts and reviews! Much appreciated! :) PS: As a European metric guy I love it that you started to state the metric values in your vids! ^^
Just bought my Hana Modz DNA 40 V3 today, because my iStick 50W just died on me. I went in to get something cheap after being burned by the Eleaf. This video has me excited to get home and build a nickel coil. Preciate you Rip!
Saw this video a while ago but watched it again to refresh myself on how to build with nickel wire which I haven't done until now. Great video super helpful! First coil I made was absolutely horrendous! This made sure my next coil turned out nice and worked properly :)
Some may think this will be an unusual comment coming from me but - this video is spot on. Not a single mistake. Every word was concise and to the point. EXCELLENT video!! Well done, Rip! Equally important was what Rip did NOT say. He did NOT make the mistake of calling NI200 "pure nickel" wire. Aside from the false advertising from wire suppliers calling Ni200 "pure" nickel (when it is demonstrably NOT) and in spite of reviewer after reviewer also calling NI200 "pure" nickel - IT IS NOT PURE NICKEL. PERIOD. It is an alloy made from 7 different elements. I see a few blowhards making uninformed comments about nickel being dangerous to use in this application. It is not dangerous unless you are allergic to nickel. About 2% of all males and 10% of all females are allergic to nickel. Virtually everyone that is allergic to nickel - KNOWS it and avoids it. However, I CAN see the possibility of the occasional 'oops' moment if someone that is allergic to nickel unwittingly tries vaping with nickel wire. Some are spewing complete nonsense about poisonous gases coming from this wire. They should have spent 30 seconds doing a little homework before touching their keyboards. Nickel does NOT out gas/off gas until it reaches 1300 degrees Fahrenheit or above. In a temperature controlled application such as this (Evolv DNA 40 in temp control mode) where the maximum temperature is limited to 600 degrees Fahrenheit (less than half the temperature required for off gassing of nickel) - it is perfectly safe. NO gas is emitted. Like Rip said - never use nickel wire without a temperature controlled device. That said, for those that are allergic to nickel - this is not something they should ever be using. Obviously. Same goes for the various 'flavors' of nichrome wire. A very low ohm build on a mechanical mod or pumping excessive wattage into a coil with a regulated mod will very easily drive the temperatures well past the safe limit. It's why I have never used nichrome or any other wire with nickel in it before. While it has been used for quite some time in vaping applications without any recorded tragedies - I chose to minimize my risk by avoiding it all together. That said, I WILL be using it with a Evolv DNA 40 mod as soon as I get one. Don't want to use nickel wire? OK. Don't use it. I would point out that regurgitating internet 'lore', rumors and gossip while trying to pass 'opinions' off as facts - just makes you look and sound stupid. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.
The only real danger that I can see is if someone forgets to switch the DNA40 over to temp sensing.It is inevitable that someone is going to do this,it would be nice if they could figure out a way for the device to sense what kind of wire is being used and switch automatically.
lucylu40122 I agree. Someone (many someones) WILL inevitably make that mistake. That said, Evolv DOES require the operator to purposely step through a few menu options to switch back and forth between modes. If a mistake IS made - it's on the user. While identifying the metal is quite easy, it would require something along the lines of using a commonly available mobile/handheld arc spark spectrometer.We have several here on Campus. I have serious doubts that this technology will EVER be incorporated into a regulated power supply for vapers. The cost would be VERY prohibitive and if the users are already having problems properly operating a simple DNA 40, how in the world will they ever figure out a spectrometer? Personally, I don't think the average user should be purchasing devices they don't fully understand or can operate safely. Think of all the people that can't even set the clocks on their microwave ovens or DVD players. Many of these folks will buy a DNA 40 device and then blame the manufacturer when something goes wrong. If you aren't paying attention and drive your car into a tree - it's not the car makers fault. It's impossible to protect everyone from everything or even themselves. My 2 cents on the topic at hand.
I agree,I am a mech mod user/builder and am very interested in the temp regulated devices.After they have been out a while I will purchase one to try out.
***** I think you are a little confused, Joshua. The DNA 40 does NOT automatically switch modes. I wish it did but it does not. Changing between 'temperature controlled' and 'normal' (wattage controlled) can only be done manually by the user. Here is the link to the 'Data Sheet' from Evolv regarding the operation of the DNA 40 circuit board. www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf
thank you so much for all the help! did a nickel build on my Zephyrus and solved my dry hitting problem! probably gonna stick with nickel for every build I do! keep up the good work, it's very much appreciated!
First day with my DIY V4 DNA40D Box mod. Lemo Ni200 build, 28 AWG, 3/32" ID, 13 wrap for a 0.13Ω standard coil under the screws. Just an evenly spaced coil with NO torching, pulsing or glowing. Using the same simple basic Limo wick RiP did in the Lemo build. Ran a tank of Foxy Fuel this evening at 25W and 420° with no dry hits and no cotton taste. I can see the screen while vaping, Temperature Protection message bounces on and off quickly, is no interference in vapor production, taking nice long 10 sec direct lung inhales and very good taste. Absolutely perfect. Be very difficult to go back to Kanthal with the Lemo. Very pleased so far.
"Warning! Warning!" You are hilarious man. I am always start watching your videos very serious and ready to learn and in the process I cant avoid start laughing. They are very explanatory though.
Thanks for the build video, as you predicted, and it didn't even take a year, everybody is playing around with Temp Control with products available now well under $100 retail and subohm tanks offering ni200 coils. I'm still not sold on it but dabbling and trying hard to appreciate it more.
Rip I appreciated this latest vid on a nickel wire build. I want you to know I have spent the last 6 month learning from you on TH-cam. I am building good coils (not sub ohm though last 0.7 build on my Kayfun was to hot nd no fun). You and someother reviewers have inspired me to build my own box mod and my Evolv DNA 40 board is on the way. I'm practicing my soldering technique and when completed I will show it off. Still looking forward to the rest of the coil 101 series. Can't wait for more reviews. Have a great and Merry Christmas all for now .... BobbyD.
The best way I've found to wrap the coils, is to use a mil spec bolt, wrap it with the threads, install the coil to the deck, do your adjustments, then unscrew the bolt. It make perfectly spaced coils.
Thanks for the Awesome as always tutorials. Your build also works great on my alien 85 in temp ni mode 7 wraps 28 kanthaw and 30 nickel at 400 to 420 30 Watts. Single coil Amazing clouds fantastic taste. Cheers aka WolfeMan
Man I wish I could get my hands on a DNA40. Hey rip as always love the videos bro, words cant describe how much you do for the vape community, all of those lives that your saving by helping people get off the stinkys. I know you saved my life, so thank you brother!
Great informative video, seems like there is to many rules to adhere to when building and firing. My comfort level is definitely not there yet, so I'm sticking with my twisted messes. Cheers!!
If like me some of you struggle with even spacing on your coils you could try a method i recently discovered. If you own a coil master type device you can build a standard contact coil. What you do then is while keeping the coil on the post pull the coils apart from 1 side and then turn the coil round and do the same again. Works great I now enjoy making spaced coils again.
If the post we're not drilled all the way out from the top just drilled out to the bottom of the eye hole where you stick the wire you could tighten the screw all the way down and not worry about breaking the nickel wire also I think you would get a much more solid connection always wondered why they drill the holes out so deep.
Im good with Kanthal coils, I like my vape around a .3 or .4 Ohms and around 35-45 watts (regulated) or my mech mod. Don't think ill ever go nickel coils.
You are solidly in the forefront of DNA-40 "Best Practices" here. I'm excited to see future videos building tanks ... even gennys. I mean, how do you even *build* a Genesis atomizer with nickel? I've bought some Aspire and Kanger "temperature sensing coils" so I can take full advantage of my clearo collection on the DNA-40 ... and now I'll be able to rebuild my RBA/RTA devices, too! Thanks, Rip. Keep 'em coming!
its really quite easy, build a wick just barely smaller than the wick hole, wrap ATLEAST 6 times and leave the fill hole open.. it oxidizes really quickly with no phantom hotspots the next week
My first time exposed to nickel wire I thought it was supposed to use just like kanthal, and it was odd from how soft it is, I used it on a regular mechanical mod.Biggest mistake, but my beginner days are over. Vape lyfe good with Sigelei 150w TC
Great video once again! Question though: So I'm gathering from this video that with a nickel build, you don't want your coils touching and compressed like with a Kanthal build? Which means that crazy coils like twisted and clapton coils are going to be off the table, right? My wife bought me a Vapor Shark rDNA40 for Christmas (its under the tree), so I'm trying to get as much info on this now. Thanks everyone! (Since I know Rip never responds to comments...lol!)
you can make microcoils and other stuff. The system will not be confused by it, because its based on relative resistance between hot and cold wire. Otherwise it would be impossible to make anything besides on specific build (gauge, wraps, diameter etc) Just don't use any kanthal, and make sure your connection is good. On fused clapton coils people tend to get rid of some of the thin wire so they can connect it in the post holes of their RDA. Dont do that! Get it all in there.
There are already people experimenting with twisted nickel wire builds and even some people combining nickel and kanthal. Do a little poking around on ECF and you'll find the threads. I'm sure RT is already experimenting with something along those lines. One of the reasons I like his videos is that he posts things that WORK - not experimental builds that may or may not. He does all the work and I get to enjoy the fruits of his experimentation. I may not be on the 'forefront' but I durn sure enjoy the cape I get off the builds I recreate from his videos. Once he has some other nickel builds that "are ready for prime time," I have NO doubt he'll be posting some tutorials!
Hey rip! Hopefully you get around to this comment. I was wondering if you could do a video explaining batteries and which ones are good which are bad so on and so forth. I ask this mainly because of the discontinuation of Sony's VTC 18650 series. I am just overwhelmed by the variety of batteries on the market to date and don't want to pay for a battery that has potential to take my hand off. Keep up the great work Rip!
Hey RiP I was hoping you could do this same type of building video with tips and tricks for the YiHi chip. I have the IPV 4 and am trying to get into the temperature control side of it but would love some tips for it before I do
If you are going for perfection, wrap on a machine screw. If I were being that nit-picky on a build, I would at least make the wraps perfectly spaced. Looks like a good vape though, and I am sure that coil and wick will stay nice a clean for many many days which is always a huge plus.
Laughing at someone because they didn't understand a concept, cool. But whatever I am very happy I brightened someone's day. Have a wonderful week and a happy holiday.
I dont like the machine screw method and here is why! even when compressing the coil after wrapping the spacing is to wide which gives me a thinner vapor with less flavor IMHO!
Hey RiP, sick as tits vid as always! Quick question though, would it be possible to wrap this like a parallel build with the coils up next to each other, then just clip the connected bend at the end of the wire, and take it apart as 2 coils? There'd be more uniform spacing between the wraps and you'd have a spare for later.
well u sure ahead of the game. these days its common practice to wrap like that. how ever kudos to you for being aware of this over 5 years ago . excellent comment
Grub screws have just as much of a chance to back out as any other threaded screw, it only depends upon how much you tighten the screw and the gauge/type of wire being used. I despise hex-style heads on screws.
Why not? Pretty sure it's not the same process. I haven't seen a 14 wrap 28guage kanthal come to .1 ohm before. I liked this simple build all I commented was I'd like to see more technical builds as well as I think the nickel will lend itself to some new ideas and techniques.
Rip, Where are the rest of the nickle build videos!? This is the only one you have and its single coil. Its hard to know what this stuff will do when we try a dual coil. Show us some more nickle builds. That would be awesome thanks. What about a nickle coil with only five wraps? what would that read out for holms?
Good video, Rip. I've been tinkering with my Hana / nickel wire builds for about a week and a half now. I really don't see why people talk about how hard or what a pain in the ass it is to use the nickel wire. It's far from difficult to do a solid build. That wire is so soft and bendable. My gripe is that (so far), I like my kanthal builds better. With nickel, the flavor is better obviously. But I'm having a hard time finding a vape as warm and as satisfying as using standard kanthal.
Chris Byerly There is a heat flux setting in steam-engine coil building calc www.steam-engine.org, is basically a power suggestion really. The DNA40 provides a max temp, seems the physical coil build itself could help provide a physical minimum temp. Here we have RiP's standard coil using Ni200 28ga with a 14 wrap on 3/32" ID, according to the calc at around 22W get 123 mW/mm, is barely in the green and that is where he was getting that nice warm vape, then he turned it up some more... IDK, it may help to use this as a guide or reference?
Watched a Robert Ellis video, Evolv DNA40 Musings. He hates the temp control feature, idk what DNA40D revision is in his Vapor Flask, video is about a month old. This guy comes from an IT background so I tend to listen. Thinks the board was not tested thoroughly in alpha or beta testing. I have yet to find info about fixes and updates on the V4 release board I have coming, other than it does Celsius now. Hoping I am not just spreading old info back out here.
If you say that loose connections with nickel are bad for the chip, would you recommend always building single coils? Because I prefer a dual coil setup in all my builds, even the Lemo.
rip, i think it regulates the temperature by calculating the resistance of the coil, because ohms increase in nickel with heat increase, i don't think it matters what temperature the atomizer actually has
How do you make sure that there isn't anything you don't wan on the wire? With Kantal I usually burn it to make sure that there aren't any production oils or chemicals on it.
Copper will react with the juice and it's composition will change. Nickel won't. And you're not heating up the nickel nearly enough for it to be dangerous. For nickel to be dangerous it has to be heated to over 1000 deg far.
Electrical Universal Copper reacts to juice whether it's heated or not. Nickel vaporizes juice when heated just like every other metal, but nickel won't let off the toxic fumes everybody's screaming about unless it's heated to over 1000 degrees.
I really really want temp control but have been scared off using nickel! I'll wait until another metal type is developed or mods that can temp control current gen coils...
I dont know about this nickel wire. nickle poisoning is a pretty serious thing. Id like to see some temperature studies on the specific effect of vaping on nickel wire and how much emissions the wire could potentially put out at those levels over a prolonged period of time.
So my noob-ass recently purchased a 28 gauge pure ni200 wire and I asked the seller for a refund because the coils I made with the wire kept showing 0.00 oHms and the seller gave me a full refund. Now I feel bad because I got my money back and the coils are working now! Before: 5-6 wraps 0.00 oHms. Now: 14 wraps 0.11 oHms.
Hay Rip!! lets build an Orchid or a LEMO for the dna 40 I've been working with 2x 15 wraps of 28 gauge on the Orchid works out to be about .09 ohms. the tank is easy 12 wraps or 28 works out to .14 ish but i have noticed the LEMO seems a bit twitchy for lack or a better word Let us know what you think!!!
Hey Rip and other vapers I had a question for you guys. I just got into rebuilding and I was wondering if it was possible to use another type of wire. All I've ever heard of was people using kanthol or gplat and nickle, could I use something like copper wire.
I have 28 gauge nickel wire and it shows extremely low resistance. For example I reckon I would need around 300 wraps to get a. 001 coil. WTF? Another question, I also have titanium wire at 24gauge and found that if you heat and stretch it before you build the coil then you don't need three times the amount of titanium in comparison to kanthal. About 1.25x is sufficient. I also don't use a temperature controlled device just a straight through box mod. Build at . 2 ohm is vaping very well and have no issues with catching fire. Just a juice guzzler. Why the myths?
For temp control devices like this, are the recommended builds going to be spaced coils? I have rather tight coils in my vaporshark, but it seems to be tripping up the sensors quite a bit more than I'd like. Just at home away from my build space, so I was hoping to get a quick response to resolve this.
I did a micro coil then pulled it out then pushed it in I got a 0.14 ohm coil maybe next time I will do a 13 wrap instead of 14 because I been doing dual coils and singles
i had a problem with my realeaux dna 200 when i tried to put a nickel coil in there but i kept fiddlin with it and i finally got it to run at .09 ohms with just a standard 12 wrap nickel build
Rip, I'm not sure if you have addressed this in the comments yet, but why are you leaving spaces between the wraps when making the coil? I've seen many videos with people doing the same thing. What is the thought behind it? Thank you.
So I'm really behind. Why is this? How? A couple years ago I bought nickel wire because I had to weld it to my kanthal so that it wouldn't heat up and short out this atty I had at the time(name escapes me. it was a bad design). So how is the nickel heating up now?
Dumb question, I've got a Velocity RDA with the Snow Wolf 200w. How's a dual coil Nickle wire build preform? Is it better to do a single or dual coil? (working with a 24 gauge Ni200 wire) Any insight would be much appreciated.
Hey Rip, I see you didn't dry burn the coil and I assume there's a reason for that but what about cleaning the chemicals or anything like that from the factory where the wire is made
Hey rip i recently purchased some of the kanger subtank nickel occ coils and have had a bad experience with it. I am using them on my ipv4 of course on temperature control, and have being getting burnt hits like crazy I just don't understand why I am even putting it at 220 f and at 30 joules. At those settings it worked alright but even when i went to take a long drag it would be burnt . So i even dissected one of them and did a build with some of the wire i straightened it by pulling it with tweezers and this was like a hour old coil and I ran my fingers through it and black gunk came of so i continued to wrap as many wraps as i could i got 9 spaced wraps as evenly as I could get and yet again in a rda was getting burnt hits and reduced flavor i really don't understand why? Could you or anyone help me the only thing i could think it would be is my ipv4. Thanks.
I've got 2 questions. 1. Why do we need kanthal wire to glow from the middle to the outer layer? 2. Why do we need spaces in between each wrap when using nickle wire? Thanks!
+Daniel Dominic in an electrical circuit( and all energy circuits) energy follows the path of least resistance (easier path ) so if it starts glowing before the center you know there isuneven resistance throughout the length of coil
Just a thought and i would like imput from you guys,i was thinking about gold wire,and i know it would be expensive but i just think gold is a awesome metal,my favorite actually lol,because of all its excellent qualities,it is very conductive,prety much corrosion proof thats why my it is the only type of jewelry i wear no ss,silver,platinum,white gold ect.and another thing awesome about it is that it is inert and doesn't react with i dont think anything! And i dont think it puts off any bad gas when heated,and i honestly have never heard of anykind of gold poisoning.i know it has a low melting point but i know for a fact it is not 400 degrees.And one thing that i think is dumb as fuk evan know i use kanthal is that they put aluminum in our vaping wire!!!!and i hink it is prety much the best wire out there,butaluminum is terrible,and is soo bad on our nervous,limbic,and as well our whole body!why couldent they change the mix of the alloy allittle?Imean is it realy that essential to incorporate aluminum?!There has to be some other less forgiving metal out there,anyways fellow vapors i thankyou in advance for reading this long post,and i realy would like your guys ideas,imput and knowledge.Happy Holidays!
Osafune KaneMitsu So far the simple answer is NI200 is the best option for temp control. With temp control everything inside the atomizer is maintaining a set temp so the coil, wick and juice and even the atomizer itself is safer in theory. Hopefully Evolv consulted a metallurgist or some kind of metal science expert in the R&D phase of the DNA40D board.
Okay Dokey yeah i was thinking about that lol,especially in its pure form,and other gold evan up to 18k has copper so ah ohwell i tried haha,thanks for your input!
Any thoughts on doing a dual coil nickel build? I've tried doubling this exact build and I've tried doubling it with fewer wraps (more than 14 starts pushing the width of a 22mm RDA) but nothing seems to work right. Takes forever to heat up and pushes really weak vapor, even cranked up to 40. Any thoughts?
Sorry might be stupid question but I'm a noob to building. Is it necessary to heat and compress the nickel wire like people do with the kanthal wire? I have the vaporshark dna 40 and eager to start doing my own builds. Also how often should i put a new coil or cotton for that matter if it never hurts and gunks up?
+831678Anthony well he did state in the video to only use this on a dna 40. Not everyone will think to check the date and realize that since the videos posting new temp control mods have been released. But at the same time if you have any interest in temperature control and are doing the research you should know that you nickel wire only works on temp control and if a device has temp control it requires nickel. Some now like mine work with titanium as well.
Seems like a lot of pains in the ass to do this and not to this and this has to be exactly like this or that. Not to mention the nickel will put off carcinogens that are less then ideal for our lungs. I think this may be a slight step backward in regards with dealing with the fda issues at this point. And all the specifics to avoid a dry hit that can be avoidable anyway. With all that said I love your vids they've have helped me in every way possible so keep it up and this is all in my opinion. Nothing bad at you rip. Thumbs up
I haven't the foggiest idea why people say this doesn't work. This is insane. I'm been vaping for 6 years, 25 watts at. 17 ohm at 460 is just nuts. Flavor vapor and no dry hits. Amazing. Great tutorial rip!
First comment on your vids, Rip:
Thank you so much for pointing me to the DNA40. Its a beast and definitely the next BIG, like BIIIG thing. I still cant believe I am actually vaping my Lemo (bought that also because of your review) on friggin 25 Watts. *Twenty-the-hell-five-Watts* (oO) and no dry burns at all. Nickel 200, 10 wraps on 3 mm diameter btw (0.16 Ohms - approximately 0.04 Ohms because of Lemo). I have to set the temp protect to 400 °F to prevent dry hits - presumably because of the 40 mOhms fixed resistance in the Lemo. In RDAs I am fine up to 450 °F.
I am blown away, really I am.
Little tip for coil building: I am using a metric M3 screw (would be 3/32" for you) to wrap: The grooves act as a guideline for the wraps, resulting in VERY even coil right away - without fiddling around. You just have to "unscrew" the coil and you are done. The Nickel wire is practically not springy, so the screw method works like a charm in this case (quite the opposite to Kanthal). Hope that helps, give it a try!
All the best and thanks again for all your efforts and reviews! Much appreciated! :)
PS: As a European metric guy I love it that you started to state the metric values in your vids! ^^
Just bought my Hana Modz DNA 40 V3 today, because my iStick 50W just died on me. I went in to get something cheap after being burned by the Eleaf. This video has me excited to get home and build a nickel coil. Preciate you Rip!
Saw this video a while ago but watched it again to refresh myself on how to build with nickel wire which I haven't done until now. Great video super helpful! First coil I made was absolutely horrendous! This made sure my next coil turned out nice and worked properly :)
Some may think this will be an unusual comment coming from me but - this video is spot on. Not a single mistake. Every word was concise and to the point. EXCELLENT video!! Well done, Rip!
Equally important was what Rip did NOT say. He did NOT make the mistake of calling NI200 "pure nickel" wire. Aside from the false advertising from wire suppliers calling Ni200 "pure" nickel (when it is demonstrably NOT) and in spite of reviewer after reviewer also calling NI200 "pure" nickel - IT IS NOT PURE NICKEL. PERIOD. It is an alloy made from 7 different elements.
I see a few blowhards making uninformed comments about nickel being dangerous to use in this application. It is not dangerous unless you are allergic to nickel. About 2% of all males and 10% of all females are allergic to nickel. Virtually everyone that is allergic to nickel - KNOWS it and avoids it. However, I CAN see the possibility of the occasional 'oops' moment if someone that is allergic to nickel unwittingly tries vaping with nickel wire.
Some are spewing complete nonsense about poisonous gases coming from this wire. They should have spent 30 seconds doing a little homework before touching their keyboards. Nickel does NOT out gas/off gas until it reaches 1300 degrees Fahrenheit or above. In a temperature controlled application such as this (Evolv DNA 40 in temp control mode) where the maximum temperature is limited to 600 degrees Fahrenheit (less than half the temperature required for off gassing of nickel) - it is perfectly safe. NO gas is emitted. Like Rip said - never use nickel wire without a temperature controlled device. That said, for those that are allergic to nickel - this is not something they should ever be using. Obviously.
Same goes for the various 'flavors' of nichrome wire. A very low ohm build on a mechanical mod or pumping excessive wattage into a coil with a regulated mod will very easily drive the temperatures well past the safe limit. It's why I have never used nichrome or any other wire with nickel in it before. While it has been used for quite some time in vaping applications without any recorded tragedies - I chose to minimize my risk by avoiding it all together. That said, I WILL be using it with a Evolv DNA 40 mod as soon as I get one.
Don't want to use nickel wire? OK. Don't use it. I would point out that regurgitating internet 'lore', rumors and gossip while trying to pass 'opinions' off as facts - just makes you look and sound stupid.
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.
The only real danger that I can see is if someone forgets to switch the DNA40 over to temp sensing.It is inevitable that someone is going to do this,it would be nice if they could figure out a way for the device to sense what kind of wire is being used and switch automatically.
lucylu40122 I agree. Someone (many someones) WILL inevitably make that mistake. That said, Evolv DOES require the operator to purposely step through a few menu options to switch back and forth between modes. If a mistake IS made - it's on the user.
While identifying the metal is quite easy, it would require something along the lines of using a commonly available mobile/handheld arc spark spectrometer.We have several here on Campus. I have serious doubts that this technology will EVER be incorporated into a regulated power supply for vapers. The cost would be VERY prohibitive and if the users are already having problems properly operating a simple DNA 40, how in the world will they ever figure out a spectrometer? Personally, I don't think the average user should be purchasing devices they don't fully understand or can operate safely. Think of all the people that can't even set the clocks on their microwave ovens or DVD players. Many of these folks will buy a DNA 40 device and then blame the manufacturer when something goes wrong. If you aren't paying attention and drive your car into a tree - it's not the car makers fault. It's impossible to protect everyone from everything or even themselves.
My 2 cents on the topic at hand.
I agree,I am a mech mod user/builder and am very interested in the temp regulated devices.After they have been out a while I will purchase one to try out.
MALT LIQUOR
***** I think you are a little confused, Joshua. The DNA 40 does NOT automatically switch modes. I wish it did but it does not. Changing between 'temperature controlled' and 'normal' (wattage controlled) can only be done manually by the user.
Here is the link to the 'Data Sheet' from Evolv regarding the operation of the DNA 40 circuit board.
www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf
thank you so much for all the help! did a nickel build on my Zephyrus and solved my dry hitting problem! probably gonna stick with nickel for every build I do! keep up the good work, it's very much appreciated!
First day with my DIY V4 DNA40D Box mod. Lemo Ni200 build, 28 AWG, 3/32" ID, 13 wrap for a 0.13Ω standard coil under the screws. Just an evenly spaced coil with NO torching, pulsing or glowing. Using the same simple basic Limo wick RiP did in the Lemo build. Ran a tank of Foxy Fuel this evening at 25W and 420° with no dry hits and no cotton taste. I can see the screen while vaping, Temperature Protection message bounces on and off quickly, is no interference in vapor production, taking nice long 10 sec direct lung inhales and very good taste. Absolutely perfect. Be very difficult to go back to Kanthal with the Lemo. Very pleased so far.
"Warning! Warning!" You are hilarious man. I am always start watching your videos very serious and ready to learn and in the process I cant avoid start laughing. They are very explanatory though.
Thanks for another great video Rip. I love using my Hobo on my Vaporshark DNA 40. I usually do 12 to 13 wraps of 28g ni 200 and it works great.
Thanks for the build video, as you predicted, and it didn't even take a year, everybody is playing around with Temp Control with products available now well under $100 retail and subohm tanks offering ni200 coils. I'm still not sold on it but dabbling and trying hard to appreciate it more.
Rip I appreciated this latest vid on a nickel wire build. I want you to know I have spent the last 6 month learning from you on TH-cam. I am building good coils (not sub ohm though last 0.7 build on my Kayfun was to hot nd no fun). You and someother reviewers have inspired me to build my own box mod and my Evolv DNA 40 board is on the way. I'm practicing my soldering technique and when completed I will show it off. Still looking forward to the rest of the coil 101 series. Can't wait for more reviews. Have a great and Merry Christmas all for now .... BobbyD.
The best way I've found to wrap the coils, is to use a mil spec bolt, wrap it with the threads, install the coil to the deck, do your adjustments, then unscrew the bolt. It make perfectly spaced coils.
Been working on builds for the last month, and this really is the only way thatworks well for me as well.......Sick as hell on my veritas!!!!!
Thanks for the Awesome as always tutorials. Your build also works great on my alien 85 in temp ni mode 7 wraps 28 kanthaw and 30 nickel at 400 to 420 30 Watts. Single coil Amazing clouds fantastic taste. Cheers aka WolfeMan
Man I wish I could get my hands on a DNA40. Hey rip as always love the videos bro, words cant describe how much you do for the vape community, all of those lives that your saving by helping people get off the stinkys. I know you saved my life, so thank you brother!
Great informative video, seems like there is to many rules to adhere to when building and firing. My comfort level is definitely not there yet, so I'm sticking with my twisted messes. Cheers!!
If like me some of you struggle with even spacing on your coils you could try a method i recently discovered. If you own a coil master type device you can build a standard contact coil. What you do then is while keeping the coil on the post pull the coils apart from 1 side and then turn the coil round and do the same again. Works great I now enjoy making spaced coils again.
If the post we're not drilled all the way out from the top just drilled out to the bottom of the eye hole where you stick the wire you could tighten the screw all the way down and not worry about breaking the nickel wire also I think you would get a much more solid connection always wondered why they drill the holes out so deep.
Awesome man! you make it all so easy. Love your vids. Very helpful to idiots like me!
I DID MY FIRST Ni200 AND 3RD BUILD TOTAL AND KANTAL IS A THING OF THE PAST!!!! YOUR THE BEST!!!!!!!!!! IPV 4S
Nickel is the future and the future is now
Parallel coil / 2 = perfectly spaced coils. No fiddling.
Im good with Kanthal coils, I like my vape around a .3 or .4 Ohms and around 35-45 watts (regulated) or my mech mod. Don't think ill ever go nickel coils.
You are solidly in the forefront of DNA-40 "Best Practices" here. I'm excited to see future videos building tanks ... even gennys.
I mean, how do you even *build* a Genesis atomizer with nickel?
I've bought some Aspire and Kanger "temperature sensing coils" so I can take full advantage of my clearo collection on the DNA-40 ... and now I'll be able to rebuild my RBA/RTA devices, too!
Thanks, Rip. Keep 'em coming!
its really quite easy, build a wick just barely smaller than the wick hole, wrap ATLEAST 6 times and leave the fill hole open.. it oxidizes really quickly with no phantom hotspots the next week
shazeen jivani you just have to pulse like 3 or 4 times and set it for about 410-420F any higher and i get a metallic taste but ymmv
I'm sticking with kanthal and nichrome on mech mods. I can rebuild, mount, wick, and juice up a coil in 3 minutes or less and it works every time.
Got mine figured out using 28 ni200 @ 1.9 450 degrees 25 watts with a Lemo and vaporshark rdna40
Delicious
Been waiting for this for too long rip!
My first time exposed to nickel wire I thought it was supposed to use just like kanthal, and it was odd from how soft it is, I used it on a regular mechanical mod.Biggest mistake, but my beginner days are over. Vape lyfe good with Sigelei 150w TC
Great video once again! Question though: So I'm gathering from this video that with a nickel build, you don't want your coils touching and compressed like with a Kanthal build? Which means that crazy coils like twisted and clapton coils are going to be off the table, right? My wife bought me a Vapor Shark rDNA40 for Christmas (its under the tree), so I'm trying to get as much info on this now. Thanks everyone! (Since I know Rip never responds to comments...lol!)
you can make microcoils and other stuff. The system will not be confused by it, because its based on relative resistance between hot and cold wire.
Otherwise it would be impossible to make anything besides on specific build (gauge, wraps, diameter etc)
Just don't use any kanthal, and make sure your connection is good.
On fused clapton coils people tend to get rid of some of the thin wire so they can connect it in the post holes of their RDA. Dont do that! Get it all in there.
There are already people experimenting with twisted nickel wire builds and even some people combining nickel and kanthal. Do a little poking around on ECF and you'll find the threads. I'm sure RT is already experimenting with something along those lines. One of the reasons I like his videos is that he posts things that WORK - not experimental builds that may or may not. He does all the work and I get to enjoy the fruits of his experimentation. I may not be on the 'forefront' but I durn sure enjoy the cape I get off the builds I recreate from his videos. Once he has some other nickel builds that "are ready for prime time," I have NO doubt he'll be posting some tutorials!
Hey rip! Hopefully you get around to this comment. I was wondering if you could do a video explaining batteries and which ones are good which are bad so on and so forth. I ask this mainly because of the discontinuation of Sony's VTC 18650 series. I am just overwhelmed by the variety of batteries on the market to date and don't want to pay for a battery that has potential to take my hand off. Keep up the great work Rip!
Hey RiP I was hoping you could do this same type of building video with tips and tricks for the YiHi chip. I have the IPV 4 and am trying to get into the temperature control side of it but would love some tips for it before I do
If you are going for perfection, wrap on a machine screw. If I were being that nit-picky on a build, I would at least make the wraps perfectly spaced. Looks like a good vape though, and I am sure that coil and wick will stay nice a clean for many many days which is always a huge plus.
Then the wire would be caught in the groves, and you would not be able to slide the build off of the screw.
sasquatch446 You just hold the coil and spin the screw. The screw just threads out of the coil ;)
Lmao.....that is truly hilarious, thank you for the chuckle sasquatch!
Laughing at someone because they didn't understand a concept, cool. But whatever I am very happy I brightened someone's day. Have a wonderful week and a happy holiday.
I dont like the machine screw method and here is why! even when compressing the coil after wrapping the spacing is to wide which gives me a thinner vapor with less flavor IMHO!
Thank you Rip!!! I was doing it wrong. About to try it again:)))
Hey RiP, sick as tits vid as always! Quick question though, would it be possible to wrap this like a parallel build with the coils up next to each other, then just clip the connected bend at the end of the wire, and take it apart as 2 coils? There'd be more uniform spacing between the wraps and you'd have a spare for later.
well u sure ahead of the game. these days its common practice to wrap like that. how ever kudos to you for being aware of this over 5 years ago . excellent comment
Grub screws have just as much of a chance to back out as any other threaded screw, it only depends upon how much you tighten the screw and the gauge/type of wire being used. I despise hex-style heads on screws.
I'd love to see some more technical builds using nickel on the dna40. Clapton, tidal etc that performs well and still falls within the chips limits.
why? Its the same process as for kanthal. I'm glad he shows something easy to get people started, and something that he hasn't shown that often.
Why not?
Pretty sure it's not the same process. I haven't seen a 14 wrap 28guage kanthal come to .1 ohm before.
I liked this simple build all I commented was I'd like to see more technical builds as well as I think the nickel will lend itself to some new ideas and techniques.
y2kiwijn Resistance rises nearly constantly as temperature goes up.
Hey Rip i was wondering if you could do a dual ni200 build. I love your videos man.
Rip, Where are the rest of the nickle build videos!? This is the only one you have and its single coil. Its hard to know what this stuff will do when we try a dual coil. Show us some more nickle builds. That would be awesome thanks. What about a nickle coil with only five wraps? what would that read out for holms?
Bad ass got it on my second build i got the hobo as well and this shit works 0.14 homs 26 whats 460 temp no more kanthal for me.
Could you PLEASE do a video on doing a nickel build on the Lemo?!?!?
You should review the freak show RDA!!
Good video, Rip. I've been tinkering with my Hana / nickel wire builds for about a week and a half now. I really don't see why people talk about how hard or what a pain in the ass it is to use the nickel wire. It's far from difficult to do a solid build. That wire is so soft and bendable. My gripe is that (so far), I like my kanthal builds better. With nickel, the flavor is better obviously. But I'm having a hard time finding a vape as warm and as satisfying as using standard kanthal.
Chris Byerly There is a heat flux setting in steam-engine coil building calc www.steam-engine.org, is basically a power suggestion really. The DNA40 provides a max temp, seems the physical coil build itself could help provide a physical minimum temp. Here we have RiP's standard coil using Ni200 28ga with a 14 wrap on 3/32" ID, according to the calc at around 22W get 123 mW/mm, is barely in the green and that is where he was getting that nice warm vape, then he turned it up some more... IDK, it may help to use this as a guide or reference?
Watched a Robert Ellis video, Evolv DNA40 Musings. He hates the temp control feature, idk what DNA40D revision is in his Vapor Flask, video is about a month old. This guy comes from an IT background so I tend to listen. Thinks the board was not tested thoroughly in alpha or beta testing. I have yet to find info about fixes and updates on the V4 release board I have coming, other than it does Celsius now. Hoping I am not just spreading old info back out here.
love it. i will try soon. thank you brooo
what would be better? a single coil with 12 wraps or a dual coil with 6 wraps? thanks RiP Trippers
...coiling requires a degree in architecture...a chipset with a prom-queen's attitude...yeah...sure...future of vaping...thanks Evolv....
If you say that loose connections with nickel are bad for the chip, would you recommend always building single coils? Because I prefer a dual coil setup in all my builds, even the Lemo.
rip, i think it regulates the temperature by calculating the resistance of the coil, because ohms increase in nickel with heat increase, i don't think it matters what temperature the atomizer actually has
How do you make sure that there isn't anything you don't wan on the wire? With Kantal I usually burn it to make sure that there aren't any production oils or chemicals on it.
So youre not comfortable with your juice touching copper and then you vape on nickel builds? Reeks of bullshit to me
nickel has no reaction with the juice like copper does.
Copper will react with the juice and it's composition will change. Nickel won't. And you're not heating up the nickel nearly enough for it to be dangerous. For nickel to be dangerous it has to be heated to over 1000 deg far.
Okay Dokey
nickel AND copper react when heated.
Electrical Universal Copper reacts to juice whether it's heated or not. Nickel vaporizes juice when heated just like every other metal, but nickel won't let off the toxic fumes everybody's screaming about unless it's heated to over 1000 degrees.
Electrical Universal
no it doesn't at this temperature range. And Copper will always react with it. So get your shit straight.
I really really want temp control but have been scared off using nickel! I'll wait until another metal type is developed or mods that can temp control current gen coils...
I dont know about this nickel wire. nickle poisoning is a pretty serious thing. Id like to see some temperature studies on the specific effect of vaping on nickel wire and how much emissions the wire could potentially put out at those levels over a prolonged period of time.
Hey RIP if you see this get your hands on the Marquis RDA
i know you don't approve of RDA's over 100 dollars but this is well deserved
Thought you were supposed to pulse the coil prior to using to make sure it's heating from the inside out. Or is that just kanthal?
Tia
Can you do a Build that you have your wraps touching.
Can you do a stainless steel building tutorial?
RiP - please tell us where you bought the Nickel wire for this build - and the brand - thanks!
Merry Christmas and a vaping happy New Year :)
I was using 24g Ni200 and I kept getting .08 - .09ohms with 18 wraps.
So my noob-ass recently purchased a 28 gauge pure ni200 wire and I asked the seller for a refund because the coils I made with the wire kept showing 0.00 oHms and the seller gave me a full refund. Now I feel bad because I got my money back and the coils are working now!
Before: 5-6 wraps 0.00 oHms.
Now: 14 wraps 0.11 oHms.
Hay Rip!!
lets build an Orchid or a LEMO for the dna 40
I've been working with 2x 15 wraps of 28 gauge on the Orchid works out to be about .09 ohms.
the tank is easy 12 wraps or 28 works out to .14 ish but i have noticed the LEMO seems a bit twitchy for lack or a better word
Let us know what you think!!!
Hey Rip and other vapers I had a question for you guys. I just got into rebuilding and I was wondering if it was possible to use another type of wire. All I've ever heard of was people using kanthol or gplat and nickle, could I use something like copper wire.
Nickel build on a Kayfun 4 I would like to see...
I have 28 gauge nickel wire and it shows extremely low resistance. For example I reckon I would need around 300 wraps to get a. 001 coil. WTF?
Another question, I also have titanium wire at 24gauge and found that if you heat and stretch it before you build the coil then you don't need three times the amount of titanium in comparison to kanthal. About 1.25x is sufficient. I also don't use a temperature controlled device just a straight through box mod. Build at . 2 ohm is vaping very well and have no issues with catching fire. Just a juice guzzler. Why the myths?
For temp control devices like this, are the recommended builds going to be spaced coils? I have rather tight coils in my vaporshark, but it seems to be tripping up the sensors quite a bit more than I'd like. Just at home away from my build space, so I was hoping to get a quick response to resolve this.
I did a micro coil then pulled it out then pushed it in I got a 0.14 ohm coil maybe next time I will do a 13 wrap instead of 14 because I been doing dual coils and singles
Oh I also been doing 0.10-0.16 ohm dual coils
i had a problem with my realeaux dna 200 when i tried to put a nickel coil in there but i kept fiddlin with it and i finally got it to run at .09 ohms with just a standard 12 wrap nickel build
if Evolv would start shipping the final DNA40 Chip... that would be great... i cant wait to build a mod with it. T.T
Hey RiP Trippers do u have a video about the snow wolf 200watt box mod?if not do u think u can make a review on it with a ni200 built. Thanks
Rip, I'm not sure if you have addressed this in the comments yet, but why are you leaving spaces between the wraps when making the coil? I've seen many videos with people doing the same thing. What is the thought behind it? Thank you.
nice haircut, mate 😉
waiting for the vaporshark rDNA 40w ver. review
rip do a video on how to use the cana and what it does
you gotta check out the kanger subtank!
A bit confused. For Ni builds you can adjust temperature AND wattage? Or does the temperature automatically adjust the wattage for you?
Could you do a titanium build video?
Good info, thanks
So I'm really behind. Why is this? How? A couple years ago I bought nickel wire because I had to weld it to my kanthal so that it wouldn't heat up and short out this atty I had at the time(name escapes me. it was a bad design). So how is the nickel heating up now?
Dumb question, I've got a Velocity RDA with the Snow Wolf 200w. How's a dual coil Nickle wire build preform? Is it better to do a single or dual coil? (working with a 24 gauge Ni200 wire) Any insight would be much appreciated.
I always wondered what was under your hat.
Where can i buy that same setup? How much will it cost?
awesomeness! still usefull after a year
Hey Rip, I see you didn't dry burn the coil and I assume there's a reason for that but what about cleaning the chemicals or anything like that from the factory where the wire is made
+Nicholas Stevens When you dry burn Nickel it will form a poisonous dust around it.
+Nick Miller I know that but what about cleaning the nickel wire because it was made in a factory
maybe a hot water soak? Ive never used it and never will. Be safe and keep off the ciggs.
Hey rip i recently purchased some of the kanger subtank nickel occ coils and have had a bad experience with it. I am using them on my ipv4 of course on temperature control, and have being getting burnt hits like crazy I just don't understand why I am even putting it at 220 f and at 30 joules. At those settings it worked alright but even when i went to take a long drag it would be burnt . So i even dissected one of them and did a build with some of the wire i straightened it by pulling it with tweezers and this was like a hour old coil and I ran my fingers through it and black gunk came of so i continued to wrap as many wraps as i could i got 9 spaced wraps as evenly as I could get and yet again in a rda was getting burnt hits and reduced flavor i really don't understand why? Could you or anyone help me the only thing i could think it would be is my ipv4. Thanks.
I've got 2 questions.
1. Why do we need kanthal wire to glow from the middle to the outer layer?
2. Why do we need spaces in between each wrap when using nickle wire?
Thanks!
+Daniel Dominic in an electrical circuit( and all energy circuits) energy follows the path of least resistance (easier path ) so if it starts glowing before the center you know there isuneven resistance throughout the length of coil
0.16 Ohm is still a bit creepy. Vape save guys
lol
Hey rip can you do a build tutorial with 26 guage dual parallel
RIP! Review the snow wolf 200w please
I prefer titanium on my temp control but i wanted to know some advice on an affordable dna 40 device
Just a thought and i would like imput from you guys,i was thinking about gold wire,and i know it would be expensive but i just think gold is a awesome metal,my favorite actually lol,because of all its excellent qualities,it is very conductive,prety much corrosion proof thats why my it is the only type of jewelry i wear no ss,silver,platinum,white gold ect.and another thing awesome about it is that it is inert and doesn't react with i dont think anything! And i dont think it puts off any bad gas when heated,and i honestly have never heard of anykind of gold poisoning.i know it has a low melting point but i know for a fact it is not 400 degrees.And one thing that i think is dumb as fuk evan know i use kanthal is that they put aluminum in our vaping wire!!!!and i hink it is prety much the best wire out there,butaluminum is terrible,and is soo bad on our nervous,limbic,and as well our whole body!why couldent they change the mix of the alloy allittle?Imean is it realy that essential to incorporate aluminum?!There has to be some other less forgiving metal out there,anyways fellow vapors i thankyou in advance for reading this long post,and i realy would like your guys ideas,imput and knowledge.Happy Holidays!
Osafune KaneMitsu So far the simple answer is NI200 is the best option for temp control. With temp control everything inside the atomizer is maintaining a set temp so the coil, wick and juice and even the atomizer itself is safer in theory. Hopefully Evolv consulted a metallurgist or some kind of metal science expert in the R&D phase of the DNA40D board.
Actually gold wire would be way to soft to even be remotely useful in this type of application. Also the resistance is far too low.
Okay Dokey yeah i was thinking about that lol,especially in its pure form,and other gold evan up to 18k has copper so ah ohwell i tried haha,thanks for your input!
Any thoughts on doing a dual coil nickel build? I've tried doubling this exact build and I've tried doubling it with fewer wraps (more than 14 starts pushing the width of a 22mm RDA) but nothing seems to work right. Takes forever to heat up and pushes really weak vapor, even cranked up to 40. Any thoughts?
I dont have a dna40 ... but i have an evic vt :P
+Raptorialand cool
Sorry might be stupid question but I'm a noob to building. Is it necessary to heat and compress the nickel wire like people do with the kanthal wire? I have the vaporshark dna 40 and eager to start doing my own builds. Also how often should i put a new coil or cotton for that matter if it never hurts and gunks up?
can I use your nickel builds for my snow wolf also.
Thank you from your local Noob
Ox Bone if you don't know this you shouldn't use snow wolf and yes you can
+Ox Bone you shouldn't be using nickel let alone a snowwolf if you're a noob.
+831678Anthony well he did state in the video to only use this on a dna 40. Not everyone will think to check the date and realize that since the videos posting new temp control mods have been released. But at the same time if you have any interest in temperature control and are doing the research you should know that you nickel wire only works on temp control and if a device has temp control it requires nickel. Some now like mine work with titanium as well.
Not worth dealing with all the bs associated with nickel for the benefits for me.
It's true, people do spread a lot of BS about nickel, especially in the comments on videos like this.
I meant for the flimsiness and just overall tinkering. Kanthal I build and go. Nickel it's constant tinkering. I have 2 DNA 40 mods.
*****
its not constant tinkering unless you just suck at what you do.
Okay Dokey woah, just take it easy man.
***** 2?!?!?! CRAZY MAN THEIR STILL IN BETA
Why don't you fire it red hot and pinch it toghether like a normal kanthal/nichrome setup?
Hi RIP,
Great video, I have a Snow Wolf 200 V1.5, i'm guessing I am ok to use this mod with this build?
any mod with tc is fine, this was pretty much just the first big tc chip
rip will you make a video about nickel wire on an rta
Dude you're dope as shit dude
Hey Rip, where are u from? i thought i seen u the other day. or somebody that looked A LOT like you lol i wasnt sure tho
Seems like a lot of pains in the ass to do this and not to this and this has to be exactly like this or that. Not to mention the nickel will put off carcinogens that are less then ideal for our lungs. I think this may be a slight step backward in regards with dealing with the fda issues at this point. And all the specifics to avoid a dry hit that can be avoidable anyway. With all that said I love your vids they've have helped me in every way possible so keep it up and this is all in my opinion. Nothing bad at you rip. Thumbs up